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Comments
So they haven't changed the wiring harness?
I just read your thread on the overheating and airlock issue with your truck. Although it's been several months since you resolved the issue I'm hoping that I can get some details on how you resolved the problem...my truck is having the exact same problem after changing a leaky water pump and old thermostat.
Thanks,
Jose
Thanks, vettenjet
I have posted here a couple of times in the last year regarding ongoing problems with P0171 & P0174 bank 1 lean and bank 2 lean codes. After continually chasing the problem, recently while driving at 65 mph on interstate the vehicle lost power. The cruise control was on at the time and the light still showed it as engaged, engine was still running, but vehicle just was losing power, when accelerator was pressed down, nothing seemed to happen, if pressed to the floor, it would cough and act like it was backfiring. Pulled over and shut off, called someone to come pick me up which was going to take about 30 minutes. After the vehicle had set about 15 minutes, decided to retry, found it started up fine and ran fine at highway speeds for about 20-25 miles then problem reoccurred, no SES light and no codes. Shut down and let cool for 10-15 minutes and able to continue on for another 20-25 miles. It took about three legs like this to make it home, on last leg I had noticed while using monitor mode on scantool that when problem occurred a couple of the oxygen sensors went to 0.0, also found couple of oxygen sensor codes pending. Long story short, ended up replacing oxygen sensors after removal for troubleshooting due to threads galling on removal. Also replaced catalytic converter Y pipe for same reason. Seemed to fix problem, vehicle ran fine for 2 1/2 to 3 weeks. All of a sudden on way home from work, had same problem occur. Noticed this time on scantool monitor mode that when problem was happening that the fuel loop 1 and fuel loop 2 were showing open, so computer was not using oxygen sensors to adjust fuel. Presently going through all grounds on vehicle and cleaning, then going to check connections at PCM. My questions is if there is any procedure to test PCM other than having GM dealer go through troubleshooting chart with Tech II?
That sunday I started to notice that the RPMs would drop down to around 500 where it never used to drop to. I decided to go to the dealer and see what they would fine after a a week cause the truck was still running rough and now low idle. The dealer found a bad O2 sensor on bank 1. They replaced that and it still didn't cure the low idle but stopped the hitching. They said replace the spark plugs if it dont clear up and so I did with the originals in the truck. Still no fix. I went down this past week and they said that my throttle body unit would have to be replaced. So I replaced that and still no fix. I also had the intake gasket checked thats good. They said the injectors were firing good. Both garages I have been to virtually cant find anything. I know personally it's not running normally.
I am going broke and going nuts trying to figure out the problem. When I come to a stop the RPM goes way down to 400 then will go back up to around 500-550. I used to idle normal at 750-850. I am hoping someone out there can help me out or may have had that same problem. It also seems to take a while to shift in the hills and to make it shift I have to give the pedal more gas. I know eventually its gonna start stalling and what not.
I went back and the mechanic hooked it up again to his sensor and the new ecm also telling the egr to open a little. He unplugged the solienoid(wiring harness) to the egr and now it runs perfectly but that doesn't mean its fixed plus the ses light came on later. What I can't figure out or him is what is telling the computer to open the egr when it is not supposed to. I don' t think that there is a leak in the vacuum lines or egr is stuck open because then it would still not run good when we unplug the egr. But if I am wrong, please don't be afraid to tell, hit me with whatever you got.
I appreciate the help Derek
Is there a big difference between the 06 and 07 trucks? Should we wait and try for an 07 instead?
It will crank over with the ignition off. If you put it in gear it doesn't do it but in neutral and park it does.
I have a command start that I totally removed and it still does it. So it is not hte command start.
I have removed the starter completely and and the wire is live. So it is not the starter.
I have replaced the starter and ignition relays and it continues to turn over.
It doesn't do it all the time but it happened today when I was no where near the truck and burnt out the starter.
Any ideas would be great.
Please help, Jeff
Thanks.
I had a similar problem on my 2000 5.3 about 5 or so years ago. It would start with a rough idle and then either clear up or continue or get even worse. It seemed to me the engine was losing a cylinder. The check engine light would come after a while.
The dealer spent a long time and multiple visits trying to fix this as it was intermittent and didn't act up at the dealer. Luckily it was under GMPP as they lots of time and threw parts at it and it was out of initial warranty. Once it finally misfired when in the shop they scoped it and determined one cylinder was misfiring. It even destroyed two cat converters because of the richness of the exhaust when it misfired. As I recollect it turned out to be the ECM that was bad and it was affecting only one cylinder. The codes set were always general misfire.
It is the company that prints the user manuals for the dealer.
Pricey, but you have to consider the accuracy and savings of doing it yourself.
http://www.helminc.com
In answer to your question, I seem to have finally fixed my problem. After several months of fighting numerous possibilities during which I have changed the MAF sensor, throttle position sensor, EGR valve, all four O2 sensors, catalytic converter, fuel pump module, fuel pressure regulator and fuel injectors; and also cleaned all grounds on the engine and frame, tried reseating the connector to the PCM. None of these seemed to fix it, at most it would go 3-4 weeks after some of these fixes before it would act up again. The last month or so it seemed to become very sensitive once the outside temperature was over about 90' F. I have an Auto Xray scantool and began tracking all the readings I could monitor and determined that it was not getting enough fuel. When it would lose power, what was happening was that the computer was sensing detonation from the anti-knock sensor and adjusting the timing to prevent this. I found that when it would act up, if I watched the timing on my scantool it would go from about 37' (normal) to 4' if I pressed down on the accelerator and back up to 37' when I released it. I was finally at the point that I thought it was the computer, so I wrote down all the codes, a list of all items I had replaced and when, and the trend monitoring I had done in the last several days and took it into the dealer with all this info. They started troubleshooting and found that the fuel pump was weak. I had checked the fuel pump at idle and it registered about 50-52 psi which is at the bottom of the limits, but the dealer did something I had not thought of doing. They attached the fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail with a long enough hose that they could tape it to the windshield and watch it as they drove the truck. At idle it showed about 50 psi, under normal acceleration it would still show about 50 psi, but if you really accelerated hard the fuel pressure would drop to 10-15 psi. I modified my pressure gauge with a long hose and drove it so I could see this happening. The fuel pump module I installed was one of the first items I replaced and that had been about 1 1/2 year ago. After seeing on the pressure gauge what was going on I was skeptical that this would fix it, but it did need resolved before they could do anymore troubleshooting. So I purchased another fuel pump module. This time I bought a Delphi unit, the first unit was just what the local O'Reilly looked up, an Airtex unit. I had checked on warranty for the first pump which was only a year and had asked if the Airtex unit was the best and that is how I found out about the Delphi. Anyways, I installed the new fuel pump module on July 4th and drove the vehicle to work the next couple of days with the fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield. The fuel pressure is at 52 psi at idle, runs around 56-58 psi during cruise and goes up to 60-62 psi when accelerating very hard. The truck has not acted up since and I have even pulled a fairly heavy trailer load and it worked fine. I had noticed when it was acting up that the short and long term fuel trim values on my scantool which indicate how the computer is adjusting the open intervals for the fuel injectors were running at 25% pegged for long term and would peg at 53.9% for short term which is when the vehicle would act up. I have monitored these values since the new fuel pump and they never get above 10% on either and most times run right around 0%. I would never have thought that the fuel pump would have fixed it but it seems to have worked. Hope this helps and saves on future headaches.
#1 Where can I find detailed instructions with diagrams hopefully, how to place one or more of these sensors, if I'm able to determine through the local parts store which on it is?
#2 Is this a job that a basic do it yourself person can do?
Thank you
Kevin
It's easy to do but you need to buy a special socket.
In the old days of hydraulic and solid lifters splash seemed to work in non Hi-Perf. motors. I have read on some forums that roller lifters and roller rockers need lube. It is said,in low rpm range, MODERN ENGINES do not splash as much oil as older motors and the needle bearings of modern motors need oiling at low RPM's (2000 to 3000RPMs) or might have wear and breakage issues.
Does any one in this community know of or heard any or some or just a few 6.2 L 403 HP V8's having roller issues? Does anyone know specificly,does the 6.2 have mist,pressure or non needle bearing rollers?
I run syn. oil and will be running Oil analysis so I assume I would know if the needle bearing are wearing it would show even though I am running a bypass system that has a 2 micron absolute filtering.
Ideas and opinions would be appreciated.