Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Gasoline Engine Problems



  • tattooman3tattooman3 Member Posts: 2
  • tattooman3tattooman3 Member Posts: 2
    hi i have a 2000 silverado 4.3 just replaced intake manifold gaskets,and now its not firing on number 5,got new plugs and leads swaped number 3 injector to number 5 pulled plug lead off 3 and engine noise changed pulled lead off 5 no change,had compression test on 3 and 5 both same reading ,got good spark ,never replaced intake gaskets went ok but the last bolt snaped so had to take it off again and replace bolt now have this missfiring any help would be nice its hard to find as im in uk thank you
  • smangelsensmangelsen Member Posts: 1
    I've got a '99 silverado 1500, and it runs very irradic. under very slow acceleration it's fine but if i get on it at all it stumbles and falls on its face. Also when cruising down the road it runs fine until I start going up hill, then it starts to stumble again until i hit the gas and kick it into another gear. This truck also wants to die when i shift from R to D. This is very aggravating... :mad: It seems like the cooler the temperature gets the better this thing runs.. any help would be greatly appreciated
  • dwh4dwh4 Member Posts: 1
    Have 99 GMC Sierra with same problem last two winters. Changed fuel pump, filter, regulator, and MAF. Still get service engine light when cold, driven short distance, stopped and then restarted in short amount of time (less than one hour). Was thinking of changing EGR but you said that did not work. did you find fix yet?
  • 1998lincoln1998lincoln Member Posts: 108
    I know these trucks have a problem with their "Heat Temp Sensor", it tells the computer to keep dumping fuel because the computer thinks the motor is still cold, it keep's flooding the engine! Just something to check !
  • 1998lincoln1998lincoln Member Posts: 108
    Check your "Heat Raiser", sometimes these things will rust closed and cause this noise! The Heat Raiser is located on the exhaust manifold ! Just turn it by hand with engine cold, so you wil not get burned! If it turns or works , then not the problem and you will have to look else where !
  • madddoggmadddogg Member Posts: 1
    truck lifters tap when first cranks up in mornin when engine warms it smoothes out until park after about a hour it does the same until engine warms then smoothes out again
  • etatetat Member Posts: 4
    does this problem have any todo with the catalic comverter or sensors its hard to see the atcual problem because when that happens i just turn off the truck and restart it and the error message dissappears,so i can't even put the diagnastics machine because when that happens i have to restart,do anyone have the same problem?if so what did you do about it what is the problem
  • etatetat Member Posts: 4
    not yet when that happens iam forced to turn off the truck and restartit so i can;t even take it to a mechanic where he can hookmit up to a dia,machine so,iam left with no answers to where to begin looking for my problem
  • etatetat Member Posts: 4
    my truck don;t low idle it runs great then all of sudden it slows down and the light appears that says reduce engine power then i have to turn truck off then turn it on again then the light dissappears
  • etatetat Member Posts: 4
    did it fix your problem or does your truck message reduce engine power still come on does it doit every now and then or all the time ,what do youdo when this message comes on?
  • dewey11dewey11 Member Posts: 11
    I had good luck with taking out 1/2qt of oil and replace it with transmission
    fluid.I would run it for 4 or 5 days then change oil.That will clean the top real good. good luck deweyii
  • ducksport883ducksport883 Member Posts: 1
    My best guess is it is going to be either the crank positioning sensor, or camshaft positioning sensor. Hope this helps.
  • keymanrickkeymanrick Member Posts: 1
    I did this and it worked!!! I used MAF Sensor cleaner and Throttle Body cleaner,it cost me $12.00 Thanks fatboyntroy!!!!! :)
  • johnnymosejohnnymose Member Posts: 2
  • johnnymosejohnnymose Member Posts: 2
    i have an 04 gmc sierra. 4.3l 4x4. 5 speed manual trans. i have a cpl problems i cant figure out. first i am having what i think is water proofing issues with the distributor. it will start misfiring and lose all power. i replaced the entire distributor. i also replaced plugs wires and cap and rotor button. still does it. is this a common problem? can anyone offer suggestions please? also when i am accelerating it seems like the trans rattles and the speed odometer fluctuates. after the rattling continues for a bit the abs light comes on. i have replaced the front wheel bearing as they were starting to go bad. the trans has always rattled kinda bad but the light never came on until i replace the wheel bearings. im sure i put them in correctly. not sure what the issue is please help. thanks.
  • gulbeyangulbeyan Member Posts: 2
    i have2006 silerado pick up i depend on this truck it has 133 tousand miles developed engine knock missfire in 5 7cyinders i took to dealership
    they told me low nock sensor .to find out they want to tear down to fix it
    any body help me pease I all ready sunk one tousand in it still the
    same some poepole said valve job some people said crank shaft .
    I make my liveing with this truck please advise. thank you for your resoponce in advence
  • gulbeyangulbeyan Member Posts: 2
  • kcaratellokcaratello Member Posts: 3
    i have a 1998 Chevrolet Silverado witht eh 5.7 liter engine. The fuel injection system acts like it's running rich. you have to press the accelerator to get it to start and it smkoes black when started, so I know it's running rich. I've replaced the coil, spark plugs, ignition wires and distributor cap to no avail. Anyone know what could be causing the problem ? Also the check engine light stays on while running.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Bad O2 sensor or clogged cat.
  • mnel92mnel92 Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2011
    I changed the intake gasket on my 99 including the plenum,valve cover and throttle body gaskets. I had the dreaded coolant disappearing act going on. Had a bit of trouble getting the distributor back in the correct place but finally did. I also changed the rotor, and plugs but not the wires. Truck runs great but at idle, every 6 seconds (I know because I timed it) the engine will raise the rpms by 100. Its not much I know but I would still like to get it right.It idles at about 6 to 700 rpms. Is that normal. Its a 99 with 4.3 Vortec. This problem wasnt there until I made the changes. It also almost dies when you are at a stop and try to accelerate but not all the time . I just wonder if there is something I missed. There were almost no vaccum lines on the intake. the only one I remember was to the brake booster. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys
  • bobby9kentuckybobby9kentucky Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Silveraldo 5.7 that wont run when the engine is cold. The engine seems to be getting too much gas and smokes, after the engine warms up it runs fine. This truck has over 200,000 miles and this is a new problem. Any ideas. Thanks
  • altec1950altec1950 Member Posts: 1
    try doing a compression test wet and dry it should indicate were your miss is coming from and check your fuel pressure and fuel filter
  • dcv396dcv396 Member Posts: 3
    My 2001 chevy 1500 silverado has quit a hard problem to find. I hope some one can help. Ok I will do my best to explain it.

    It starts and runs fine. you can put it in drive and it will auto shift through the gears at up to 4500 RPM ok.

    the issue is when you are going up a hill or grade for more than 25 seconds under a easy steady load in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears the engine lights comes on it begine to flash and it sets a code. When this happens number four cylinder missfires and engines runs rough until you remove your foot from the gas peddle for 30 seconds or so. The engine light stops flashing and stays on and truck runs ok. You just can't go over 2000 RPM or up a hill or grade.

    this has been going on for the three years i have owned this truck and seems to have gotten worse. we have spent many ours and its been at the shop on the scanners many times. Always it says #4 cly missfire.

    check compression its great, changed and tested plugs, plug wires, coil, crank sensor, intake manifold gaskets and fuel pump. Still the same reaction.

    Oh ya my truck can plow all day long without one problem. How ever go up a hill or grade for more than 25 seconds under just a easy load and the problem starts everytime. HELP :(

    my e-mail is [email protected] com if needed.

    Thanks very much
  • dcv396dcv396 Member Posts: 3
  • dcv396dcv396 Member Posts: 3
    blow it up
  • jimschevjimschev Member Posts: 3
    Hey just curious if you resolved. reason I ask is of course i had the same. mine
    is 2001 2 wheel drive silverado. i ended up destroying my cat. Here is what i did. My dealer told me to buy some Techron and add to the tank a few times and buy gas from a top station in my case i got shell gas. Then bought a big can of gunk carb cleaner and took off the air cover and sprayed the throttle body with no less than half the can. This resolved my issue and i do this once a yr or so.
  • sorrylewsorrylew Member Posts: 1
    Forget the throttle position sensor... have had the same truck for 10 years... tps has been changed two times... doesn't work.... at one point I finally bought Delco cap n rotor and plugs.... problem solved for about six months..... I have also been through a new transmission and have had it rebuilt two times.

    I love this truck, but it has given me problems on and off since I have had it.... it started lurching again last week.... the transmission is gonna go any day now... probably on the way to work. I'm not spending any more money on this truck. GOOD LUCK!
  • rem308rem308 Member Posts: 3
    My 2008 1500 pickup started running very very rough all of a sudden. I went to the closest mechanic I could find in a very small town. We don't have a GM dealer. He told me GM is having all kinds of problems with the 2007 and 2008 1500 5.3 engines. Fuel mileage and oil consumption is the smallest of the problem.
    Luckily, he owned a Device that read codes he got from Napa. It showed the number 6 cylinder was bad and an O2 sensor.
    He put in all new plugs, new plug wires and one O2 sensor. He took it for a test drive and within two miles it was it was doing the same thing. The Stablizer and traction control light came on and also the check engine light as it had for me when it started running very very rough. In my case, it was the number 6 plug. Three different GM mechanics at three different dealerships told me that it mostly affects the plugs on the right bank, and can affect any of those plugs, one told me that he had seen it on the number 7 plug twice.
    GM is well aware, as well as their service depts since GM has issued bulletins to the dealers regarding this issue. These bulletins are not for the public.
    What happens is the fuel mgt system shuts off the fuel to the right bank and the lifters won't lift the valves for lubrication. Then, the lifter fails, the roller for example breaks off, the lifter slides inside itself, etc. as a consequence it wears the lobe off the camshaft, then destroys the camshaft. Replacing the bad lifter and camshaft will not solve the problem, maybe temporially, but not for the long term.
    In my case, my pickup went out of warranty, GM refused to fix the problem. If you are having any issue with oil consumption, bad fuel mileage, running rough; RUN DON'T WALK TO YOUR NEAREST GM DEALER ESPECIALLY IF YOU ARE UNDER THE 100,000 MILES AND DEMAND A NEW ENGINE.
    Repairing the engine does not work. I was told by one mechanic he saw an engine repaired with a new lifter, etc. and a few thousand miles later, he had the same problem and ended up buying a new engine.
    The only thing to do is get a new engine. Guess what? GM now has their fuel mgt. system on the 2013 2500's and as I understand it on the 3500's also.
    It looks like I'll be buying a ford sooner than later. We can thank California and the EPA for all this crap the manufacturers have to put on vehicles these days.
    However, it really pisses me off with service managers and a district manager lies to me about the problem.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Good morning rem308,

    We see that you've worked with multiple dealerships on this concern with your engine; did you ever have a Service Request open at any point regarding this concern? Please forward that reference number (71-**********) or the last 8 digits of your VIN, along with any additional details you wish to include, to [email protected] and we will check into this to see if there's anything further we can do.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • rafacutterrafacutter Member Posts: 1
    Hello my name is Rafael and I have same problem with my truck except for my engine is a vortec 4.3 and I been changing distribuitor cap, rotor ,sparks plugs, fuel filter and last year brand new fuel pump, i'm not a car guy, so i don't have a lot of experience,so my question is where is located the engine temperature sensor(checking on autozone website is showing 4 different sensors not sure witch one it is)

    please any advise :confuse:
  • jimschevjimschev Member Posts: 3
    Rafael, try this first -- buy 4 bottles of Techron fuel additive and use accord to directions - also buy 2 cans of Gunk carb cleaner. Remove your your air cleaner cover and spray the throttle body with half the can at a time--open and close the throttle while spraying. You will have a bit of a hard time starting the truck after but don't worry it will start. Do this a few times and you will see a difference. The cap and rotor are very important too on the 4.3 liter-- so best to get the oem. Also better to use the top tier gas. You can search for the stations near you that have it.
  • jrod21jrod21 Member Posts: 1
    i got a 00 silverado and im haveing some problems . it drives good and shifts good to but when i punch the gas it feels like it ogs down . but this only happens when i punch the gass
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    When was the last time the throttle body/plate cleaned? The '00 rado was known for a sticking plate.
  • dayzd4dayzdayzd4dayz Member Posts: 1
    I know this is an old thread but I'm having same problem with the same truck wandering if you ever solve the problem thanks
  • jimschevjimschev Member Posts: 3
    i have a 2001 silverado 4.3 liter and techron fuel additive and throttle body cleaning with gunk took away the random misfires. also very important to use an oem cap and rotor. I have had to replace my fuel pump, ox. sensor before the cat- and now intake manifold gasket -- these are common issues with these trucks. also common is need to replace the fuel injector spider. Another is the issue with the distributor developing moisture. worst thing you can do is to start replacing everything on the engine. best to start with the fuel injector cleaner and techron is what gm recommends. important to clean up that throttle body too. if you let it go too long your cat will fail. mine has 164k miles and i think it runs great.
  • foxman55foxman55 Member Posts: 1
    rem308 I feel your PAIN!! I have a 2007 silverado 1500 LT with only 86,000 miles on it. Pulled into my garage saturday and the engine started "ticking" really loud. Took it to a reputable repair center. they disassembled the engine down to the lifters on the drivers side where the noise was and found (1) lifter roller had gouges in it and the cam was scarred. I had an extended warranty that ran out 1-11-13. The Chevy dealer where i purchased the truck & warranty said "Sorry, we can't help you." REALLY???????!!!!!!! I paid alot of money for this truck and its only 8 days out of warranty and all they say is "Sorry". I too have had it with GM. The old saying must really be true...."Once they get your money they are thru with you" Been a GM man for along time. Looks like there is a Ford in my future.
  • ms1378ms1378 Member Posts: 7
    Got the same problem on my 2001 2500. Have gotten conflicting answers and before I spend 800.00-950.00 to replace my rear main I would like to hear what other people have done. Please reply back with any info. Thank You.
  • ms1378ms1378 Member Posts: 7
    I own a 2001 2500 4x4 6.0. While just tooling down the road the ABS light will flash on. When I turn off the motor the warning clears. The ABS waring is never consisitant, meaning that I can be driving rough caliche roads and it never comes on but yet on smooth roadways it will. I was told that my front hubs need to be replaced. But before any money is spent I wanted to know if anyone else has had this problem and am curious if its not the actual ABS sensor were it connects into the hub or the ABS modulator?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    We would be happy to check into this further with you, foxman55. Please contact us via email at [email protected] with more details (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN, and a summary of the situation so far).

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I have seen this posted elsewhere and one of the issue wsas a bad "ground" from the body of the vehcile to the frame. It seems on some years and models the ground becomes loose somehow.
  • ms1378ms1378 Member Posts: 7
    Thank you chuck1. I will have that checked out.
  • oldguy50oldguy50 Member Posts: 1
    2008 GMC Sierra SLE I had a minor accident... all other electronics work in dash except the fuel gauge and truck will not there a reset process I could try? For instance an emergency shut down....thanks for your help
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Look in your owners manual. The fuel pump is programed to shut down if the shock from the accident is severe enough. There is a way to reset it, check your manual.
  • joeyjojoejoeyjojoe Member Posts: 1
    I've been having a stall no start problem last month , I knew my fuel pump was going due to the high noise so I replaced it with a 60$ pump/unit i found online. I had to wire it directly because it was a direct fit electrically .Everything went smooth until I drove the truck a week later on a cold snowy day. Truck stalled 30 seconds into it running and would not start , I , in the snow started to look for answers . I checked for spark ,which was good and I heard the fuel pump running as I turned the key , also heard the click on the relay in the fuse box. I was stumped and wondered WTF .I had this truck for 15 yrs. So I tried to get the fuel pressure gage screwed on but the snow was blowing and I couldn't screw on the connecter correctly . I poured some gas into the carb and turned the key , I wanted to see if it would at least fired a few cylinders to check crank sensor or distributor components . Well the engine didn't only fire a few cylinder but started right up . It ran perfectly smooth without a miss.....Now I was Pissed because I didn't trust it at all to get me anywhere.
    I started to ask questions and look for info on the Net of similar issues. So this is what I did. 1 . got the truck into my garage , removed the air cleaner , installed the pressure gage correctly , tested the pump ( 59 lbs and 62 lbs when fuel regulator kicked in on acceleration.
    I pulled the truck outside with the fuel gage left on and waited for a cold day to come. 3 days later as I started the truck and started to move it , it stalled and wouldn't start . I checked the fuel gauge pressure and it read 40lbs, I thought great my fuel pump is a cheap one that don't like cold weather but before I blamed it on the pump I remember a old time mechanic tell me to test the grounds, so I got out the jumper cables and clamped on end to the lift lug on the motor and the other to the frame ,tested the pressure with the key turned and got 59lbs reading , started the truck which ran great until I removed the clamp , which came with a spark , and noticing the pressure gauge go down slowly to 40 as it stalled quickly . I now have a direction which I found the ribbon ground behind the motor crumbling to dust . I knew the other ground to the battery to alternator bracket was secure and also the ground to the inside fender wall . I replaced the ribbon ground with a heavy braided wire and my truck runs better then ever before . I wouldn't believe that many grounds would make the difference . Also I know of the distributor cap has to be replaced every yr before winter or it misses on damp cold days until it is warmed up. I've been doing this for past 8 yrs .
  • Tim_Williams1961Tim_Williams1961 Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2015
    I have a 4.3 L GMC Sierra Extendacab1500 PU; The engine has a skip that comes and goes. Plugs recent; rotor and dist box recent, alternator recent, ps pump recent, ac comp recent, full exhaust system recent with cat cov removed two years before and it was not tied in to anything by sensors, fuel filter recent. (some folks think it is the fuel pump; some think the EGR valve may be dirty or bad.) Any other suggestions? This vehicle is too old to really tell what is wrong with a hook up under the dash per our GMC guy here in town and another reliable mechanic. It has been a great truck; I want to keep her running for years to come. Thanks !!! [Email removed] --Anderson, SC
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    What year is this truck?
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