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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Gasoline Engine Problems



  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You do not describe the conditions under which your described incident happens.

    So let me assume a few things. Your GMC Sierra has either the 5.3 or the 6.0. This ticking happens on cold mornings. It starts on startup and disappears within 5 minutes. It's not so loud that it can be heard clearly in the cab yet loud enough that if you're standing next to it when it is occuring that you can clearly hear it.

    If the above describes what is happening then all I can say is that it is normal. The CSK or cold start knock has been around awhile and is nothing new. The metal in your motor needs to expand with heat to sit properly and the noise you are hearing is metal contact prior to expansion.

    You will not receive any help from the dealership and though not so comforting the GM knock isn't as loud as the Toyota knock. Ford and Dodge has these issues also and Nissan as well.

    That being said there are folks here with the GMT800 platform trucks with over 100K miles on them with no issues other than that ticking on startup. Now if that sound ever turns into a loud knock rather than soft tick I would be concerned as there would be very costly repairs in your near future.

    Hope this helps.

    BTW, some owners state that switching to Mobil 1 0W-30 full synthetic has helped alleviate some of that cold start knock.
  • 1offroader1offroader Member Posts: 208
    Nothing to worry about. GM uses pushrod activated valves, which use hydraulic lifters. These lifters can leak a bit of oil overnight, and need a few seconds to fill upon startup. This causes a bit of valve clatter until the oil pressure builds enough to pressurize the lifters. Mine does it too, goes away in 5-10 seconds.

    There is another noise that some of the older GM engines make caused by piston slap. This is a different problem and I have not heard of it happening with the 9000 series. It is a deeper knocking sound and to the trained ear is much different thatn the valve click.

  • 08gmcsierra08gmcsierra Member Posts: 4
    Hi...and thanks.
    This is the is very random. Sometimes even hearing it on warmer days. That fact that it does not happen all the time is more perplexing.
    If this is indeed something normal, then I would have hoped the dealer would have stepped up and said so....sort of leaves me with an uneasy feeling.
    I'll try the synthetic next oil change and see if it takes care of it.
    Much appreciated.
  • 08gmcsierra08gmcsierra Member Posts: 4
    Hi, and appreciate the response....
    Sounds like you are describing what the problem could be, although when it does occur, it does take longer than 5-10 seconds.
    It definitely is not piston slap....
    Just curious as to why the dealer would not mention the hydraulic lifter noise??....thanks again for the response.
  • acemcsherryacemcsherry Member Posts: 4
    I have an 07 Sierra pickup with over 50k miles and just heard the noise after the dealership did an oil change last month. I brought it back and they did a complete tear down to identify the location of the noise. I can't say I am happy with their response. They replaced several components of the valve train.

    I think the other postings here are helpful, but if it causes any driveability issues be careful when the dealership wants to take it appart.
  • acemcsherryacemcsherry Member Posts: 4
    I have an 07 Sierra 1500 5.3L V8 and I wanted to know if there are different types of springs in the engine. Specifically, when the valve cover is removed and a broken spring is found; are there other springs, besides the valve springs, visible.
  • acemcsherryacemcsherry Member Posts: 4
  • dirtydog1937dirtydog1937 Member Posts: 12
    There is only one kind of spring under the valve cover and that is the valve springs.
    If you need a shop manual you can pick one up for around $20.00 at Auto Zone or Oreilly's. If you found a piece of spring in the valve cover,you should be able to see which one is broken by the height and thickness of the springs.
    Good luck.
  • 08gmcsierra08gmcsierra Member Posts: 4
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I'd be absolutely terrified if the dealer was to attempt a tear down of the motor. Now that's spooky.

    That's odd that the noise started right after an oil change. Then again maybe they forgot to put the oil in before starting the truck or left the oil filter off. I would imagine the dealer would do just about anything to avoid tearing down a motor so something must have happened.
  • robin17robin17 Member Posts: 1
    i have 2002 2500hd with 60k when taking off from dead stop it take along time to pick up speed but when u let off accelerator it will start to pick up speed but not that much replace spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, and put new fuel pump in it.

    if any could help it would be great!!!
  • kingbrutiskingbrutis Member Posts: 1
    1996 chevy 3500 dually, 454 vortech, just put on new intake, radiator, themostat about 500 miles ago. I noticed there was oil in the radiator. I drained, it, flushed it, put that block sealer stuff in. Followed directions, filled it back up with water and let it run. The return hose from the motor is still flowing lots of oil. It's not showing any oil presher on the gauge. The oil is full on the dipstick. So whats next? Thanks joe
  • lpoincotlpoincot Member Posts: 1
    Hello robin,

    Have you had any respones to you post. I have a 2002 5.3 1500 with 125,000 miles and it does the same thing from a dead stop, but I still have driveability. I can still get to highway speeds, just takes a while.

    I replaced the fuel pressure regulator today, but it did not fix the problem. I tried to get codes from the system, but the reader will not connect.
  • redwing5redwing5 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,
    2004 Silverado 2500, 6.0L, 2wd, automatic tranny, 74,000 miles.

    Last week while towing a horse trailer on a VERY hot day, the "reduced engine power" engaged. The manual explains this as usually being related to the cooling system, but the coolant temp read apprx. 210 degrees. After this happened I changed the air filter, oil filter and oil, tranny fluid and filter, drained and replaced the coolant.
    This morning (on a not so hot day) it did the same thing, again while towing.
    Other bits of info: I haven't done any other maintenance thus far. Original plugs, wires, fuel filter, pcv valve and so forth. The first time it happend the only symptom was "reduced engine power." This morning it also has the check engine light on, but again, the temp reads 210 range and the transmission temp is normal too.
    The fan is turning, (but I haven't checked yet to see if it increases with RPM.)
    Any suggestions would be helpful because I'm baffled. If the temp were up I'd be inclined to examine the rest of the cooling system but that's not the case.
    Thanks in advance. If so inclined I'll even take phone calls at 214-876-1217
  • redwing5redwing5 Member Posts: 2
    I believe I've found the problem. I had Auto Zone run the code scan for me (they do it free) and I got code P2135 which is "APP sensors 1 and 2 do not agree." From other research I've done on the internet I've discovered that A: the connector for the throttle position sensor sometime loses connectivity and needs to be cleaned and more importantly B: The yellow wire on that connector commonly breaks inside the insulation. From my initial examination it looks as if there's a spot that rubs near the oil fill tube and that could be the culprit. Since my problem has been intermittent (sp?) I won't be sure of the fix for a while, but I'll post back when I know for sure. Hopefully save someone else some time and money.
  • gmcboygmcboy Member Posts: 1
    does any one know any thing about the valve problems
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    What valve problems?
  • jerryk2jerryk2 Member Posts: 6
    it will start but it is popping thru the air cleaner and some time it will let you rev it up to 3000 or 4000 rpm no problem and sometimes it will idle ok and will not rev up at all with out trying to die i have new wires and plugs and pcv valve not sure what eles it could be i put new fuel filter in also new pump like 2 mouths ago if any one has any idea please help me out before i have to take it to a shop does any one know what the psi should be on the fuel psi idle and on the gas
  • chevyman66chevyman66 Member Posts: 2
    mine did similar problems, check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. its on driver side just below the plastic cover. should be around 45-60 psi i believe. check o2 sensors, mine took a [non-permissible content removed], or your cats could be restricting exhaust from escaping. could of got bad fuel pump...? worth a look. my fuel pressure regulator also went bad which caused hard starting. which is also is on the driver side on fuel rail. good luck
  • randy45randy45 Member Posts: 1
    my 99 1500 4.3L idles rough/misfires when it rains and gets wet. accelerating hard will clear the problem. any ideas?
  • cac4cac4 Member Posts: 11
    I am looking at buying a 05-07 classic chevy/gmc 1500 5.3L truck. I have a few engine questions?
    When did they introduce the flex fuel and how do i tell which engine has this option?
    How do I tell the difference of the iron vs. the alum block.
    Is it in the serial #.
    Which one is better?
    I hav read some post that claim the iron is the way to go.
  • treedogtreedog Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2001 chevy silverado with the 5.3 litre engine,..It ran fine, up until today .The truck sat for 4 days and when i went to start it just starts and immediately stalls out, Also i noticed coincidently the remote door locks dont work and the dome light and door dinger isnt working either...It just keeps starting and stalling with or without the gas pedal depressed....Has anyone had this problem?
  • cajamacajama Member Posts: 4
    1- Sounds like the battery, if its screwed up it will fry the IAC which keeps the truck at idle. Change the battery and go from there.
  • treedogtreedog Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2003 chevy 1500 hd 6.0 litre,..w/ 93k miles...It is overheating quickly, i can start it cold and in 5 minutes its overheated,..The engine does not miss or run rough,it runs very smooth,The service engine light isnt on...There isnt any water in the oil, The water pump and thermostat are new,..the radiator looks very clean,..I cant find any water leaking from the block, heads or intake..And its not the temp gauge because the coolant is definately overheated...ive tried two different thermostats..Im baffled,..Can anyone help?..
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Both the waterpump and the thermostat could cause the problem you're describing. Think either one was defective?
  • treedogtreedog Member Posts: 12
    Well this is the second thermostat ive tried, so i doubt two would be bad,..And the water pump seemed fine outa the there any test i can do to check them without removal?
  • treedogtreedog Member Posts: 12
    o.k, i changed the iac and it still wont start, just starts and instantly stalls,any suggestions?...battery is about 4 months old,..the headlights and radio work fine....
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    It went from overheating to a non-start issue?
  • treedogtreedog Member Posts: 12
    Update: ok well i found the problem, We've had 4 days a flooding rain in Forida this week from tropical storm Fay, I guess mice or some type of rodent went looking for higher ground and decided to make there new home under my dash ,..Several wires were chewed in half..Fixed the wires and that fixed the problem..We are up and running again....Thanks..
  • treedogtreedog Member Posts: 12
    No, i have two trucks ,..Notice one is a 2001 w/ 5.3 litre....and the overheating truck is a 2003 1500hd with the 6.0litre....i just fixed the 2001 5.3...Still need help with the overheating 6.0 litre though...
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    For the vehicle to overheat to the redline in 5 minutes we're talking about either
    1-no coolant circulation
    2-no coolant

    So it's either something blocking the coolant from passing through the radiator or a bad fan clutch. I'm assuming if it was the fan you would've noticed. Do you know if they back flushed the system when installing the water pump/thermostat?
  • treedogtreedog Member Posts: 12
    ok , well it has coolant, so im guessin it would be no circulation,...i dont know if they flushed the system....i took off the top radiator hose and coolant comes out when im guessing coolant is getting that far..
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    You might want to check if the thermostat is installed correctly and if there are any kinks in the hoses. Since the water is moving we can assume the water pump is working.

    Check the hoses by squeezing them.
  • treedogtreedog Member Posts: 12
    Ok i tried taking out the thermostat and it still overheated, put another new thermostat back in and still overheating....i cant find any hose kinks either..Im gonna have a block and presure test done thinking maybe the plastic intake manifold or gasket..any thoughts...
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I wouldn't think the intake manifold or the gasket has anything to do with the blockage. A back flush might return something as something is blocking the flow.
  • treedogtreedog Member Posts: 12
    O.k. Obyone here is the latest...Somehow there was air in the system ..i guess it was trapped from when i replaced the thermostat....Maybe there was air trapped around the head keeping coolant away causing it to overheat not sure but its running great now ...just a simple thing ,..but a major learning expierience for me...Thanks for all the help...
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Glad everything worked out.
  • david_cassidydavid_cassidy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 5.3 Silverado pickup. It will be running down the road and just start skipping. We have run diagnostics on it and it shows a random misfire. It has no codes and sometimes it wont even set the misfiire code. I have put on a new fuel filter, new plugs and wires, and have cleaned the injectors. Sometimes when I go somewhere it will not do it at all, but other times it runes so bad that it will hardly go down the road. Any ideas what this could be? Thanks!
  • auntjimauntjim Member Posts: 3
    dies when put in gear. can get to go; pumping gas. runs fine untill stop,then dies......checked map,iac,vac.lines,fuel pump & filter, NO CODES tried ecm too! HELP!!!!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Try changing the TPS.
  • auntjimauntjim Member Posts: 3
    It scans fine. This all started a year ago when the fuel pump went out. Only got to put 300 mi. on it since. Yes I checked the pump! Again! It is real rich when it acts up. I've cleaned the throttle body, EGR, IAC, changed blinker fluid,air in tires, new muffler bearings, and even sent a get well soon card! I've had it since it was new. Only had to do valve cover gaskets, starter, alt., brakes, tires,ect. and rearend in 217,000 mi. I'm sure it's something simple. 7.4 TBI's I thought, are usually pretty simple. Stange thing happened today, I unpluged the MAP while it was running, and it came out of it! Went in gear and everything! so I changed it. OOPS! back to square one. Now it dies when I unplug it, Even with the old one. Well if you or anyone else has any ideas I sure would be thankfull!
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Running rich could mean one of two things. You removed the cat or bad O2 sensors. Have you checked those?
  • pmckeypmckey Member Posts: 2
  • pmckeypmckey Member Posts: 2
    5.7 vortec starts fine but when push gas it revs up and down and voltage needle pegs and lights get bright then when put in gear it chugs. help
  • auntjimauntjim Member Posts: 3
    Or CTS. No cat sensor fine. Ran good before pump change.
  • ratnowratnow Member Posts: 1
    Can't carry stuff in a prius
  • xvzrtgsglxvzrtgsgl Member Posts: 2
    Bought the truck last year with 185k on the clock. Recently I get a intermittent missfire , unlike a single plug it's very random. local wrench could not get problem to occur and said it looks like all ignition components have been recently replaced. I put catback straight pipes on in January and wonder if I have developed a lean condition? Seems more likely to missfire after rain or sitting for a few weeks or when cold. If it starts it seems to clear up as oper temp rises. Condensation?
    Any thoughts???????
  • jostiguinjostiguin Member Posts: 3
    Ive got an 04 2500 6.0 with 50,000mi at about 45,000mi it started saying reduced engine power. took it to the dealer and they advised it was a connector on the throttle body intake. They cut it and spliced a new one in and it started doing it again. they cleaned the throttle body that time and it started doing it again. They replaced the throttle body and it did it again. So a couple of weeks ago they told me it was an engine ground problem and it ran fine for a couple of weeks till today when it did it again. They dealer told me that now they were going to have to wipe the CPU and reboot it. Anybody got any answers?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Has the dealer ever explained or told you what code was triggered with the reduced engine power? I find it rather disturbing to see the dealer doing a "we'll replace this, or clean that, and replace this. While diagnosing a problem isn't an exact science, random parts replacement at the customer's expense is a quick way to lose customers.

    FWIW, I don't beleive that wiping the CPU and reboot (disconnecting the battery) will solve your problem. You need to find the code that's been triggered. An auto parts company can do that for you at no charge or a reputable mechanic for a small fee. The dealer is no bargain at this point wasting time and money. Reboot? they should be rebooted.
  • jostiguinjostiguin Member Posts: 3
    The truck is under warranty so everything has been covered so far. The first time it happened they showed me the wire on the connector that was worn. The second time he explained that the blade in the TPS was not opening all the way so they cleaned it/ The third time they just advised that they were just going to change out the throttle intake. and this last time it was an engine ground problem. so im confused as to what is going on with it. From reading other forums i see that other people have had similar problems with the same remedies, but have not heard of anyone's CPU having to be rebooted?
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