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Comments
So let me assume a few things. Your GMC Sierra has either the 5.3 or the 6.0. This ticking happens on cold mornings. It starts on startup and disappears within 5 minutes. It's not so loud that it can be heard clearly in the cab yet loud enough that if you're standing next to it when it is occuring that you can clearly hear it.
If the above describes what is happening then all I can say is that it is normal. The CSK or cold start knock has been around awhile and is nothing new. The metal in your motor needs to expand with heat to sit properly and the noise you are hearing is metal contact prior to expansion.
You will not receive any help from the dealership and though not so comforting the GM knock isn't as loud as the Toyota knock. Ford and Dodge has these issues also and Nissan as well.
That being said there are folks here with the GMT800 platform trucks with over 100K miles on them with no issues other than that ticking on startup. Now if that sound ever turns into a loud knock rather than soft tick I would be concerned as there would be very costly repairs in your near future.
Hope this helps.
BTW, some owners state that switching to Mobil 1 0W-30 full synthetic has helped alleviate some of that cold start knock.
There is another noise that some of the older GM engines make caused by piston slap. This is a different problem and I have not heard of it happening with the 9000 series. It is a deeper knocking sound and to the trained ear is much different thatn the valve click.
1offroader
This is the 5.3...it is very random. Sometimes even hearing it on warmer days. That fact that it does not happen all the time is more perplexing.
If this is indeed something normal, then I would have hoped the dealer would have stepped up and said so....sort of leaves me with an uneasy feeling.
I'll try the synthetic next oil change and see if it takes care of it.
Much appreciated.
Sounds like you are describing what the problem could be, although when it does occur, it does take longer than 5-10 seconds.
It definitely is not piston slap....
Just curious as to why the dealer would not mention the hydraulic lifter noise??....thanks again for the response.
I think the other postings here are helpful, but if it causes any driveability issues be careful when the dealership wants to take it appart.
If you need a shop manual you can pick one up for around $20.00 at Auto Zone or Oreilly's. If you found a piece of spring in the valve cover,you should be able to see which one is broken by the height and thickness of the springs.
Good luck.
That's odd that the noise started right after an oil change. Then again maybe they forgot to put the oil in before starting the truck or left the oil filter off. I would imagine the dealer would do just about anything to avoid tearing down a motor so something must have happened.
if any could help it would be great!!!
Have you had any respones to you post. I have a 2002 5.3 1500 with 125,000 miles and it does the same thing from a dead stop, but I still have driveability. I can still get to highway speeds, just takes a while.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator today, but it did not fix the problem. I tried to get codes from the system, but the reader will not connect.
2004 Silverado 2500, 6.0L, 2wd, automatic tranny, 74,000 miles.
Last week while towing a horse trailer on a VERY hot day, the "reduced engine power" engaged. The manual explains this as usually being related to the cooling system, but the coolant temp read apprx. 210 degrees. After this happened I changed the air filter, oil filter and oil, tranny fluid and filter, drained and replaced the coolant.
This morning (on a not so hot day) it did the same thing, again while towing.
Other bits of info: I haven't done any other maintenance thus far. Original plugs, wires, fuel filter, pcv valve and so forth. The first time it happend the only symptom was "reduced engine power." This morning it also has the check engine light on, but again, the temp reads 210 range and the transmission temp is normal too.
The fan is turning, (but I haven't checked yet to see if it increases with RPM.)
Any suggestions would be helpful because I'm baffled. If the temp were up I'd be inclined to examine the rest of the cooling system but that's not the case.
Thanks in advance. If so inclined I'll even take phone calls at 214-876-1217
When did they introduce the flex fuel and how do i tell which engine has this option?
How do I tell the difference of the iron vs. the alum block.
Is it in the serial #.
Which one is better?
I hav read some post that claim the iron is the way to go.
1-no coolant circulation
2-no coolant
So it's either something blocking the coolant from passing through the radiator or a bad fan clutch. I'm assuming if it was the fan you would've noticed. Do you know if they back flushed the system when installing the water pump/thermostat?
Check the hoses by squeezing them.
Any thoughts???????
Jesse
FWIW, I don't beleive that wiping the CPU and reboot (disconnecting the battery) will solve your problem. You need to find the code that's been triggered. An auto parts company can do that for you at no charge or a reputable mechanic for a small fee. The dealer is no bargain at this point wasting time and money. Reboot? they should be rebooted.