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Comments
heat sensor is telling the motor it's still cold and needs to inject more fuel !
This happens with silverado's sometimes ! Just something to look at ! Good Luck !
it seems likely that your truck's catalytic converter is clogged.
To test the exhaust, remove a spark plug, hook up a compression tester, crank over engine, when it starts, if the compression is high, cat. converter is stopped up and has to be replaced !
the engine temperature sensor! It was failing so it was telling the throttle positioning sensor that the motor was cold so it kept dumping allot if fuel. So when the gas was pushed it flooded it and it would die!
the low idle was a common problem on these engines. Actually, the real problem is that the accelerator is sticking (although this is not as evident as the low idle; this is why you feel the surge, instead of a smooth acceleration. The low idle is a by-product of this problem). The problem is due to hydrocarbon (sludge) buildup inside the throttle body, and possibly the air flow sensor. clean both (I assume with something like common carb cleaner?).
The engine oil pressure is too high, on start up the pressure gauge pegs past 80 PSI. The oil filter o-ring blew out. I changed the oil and filter 10W30 and it blew
the o-ring out again so I tightened the heck out of it and am able to start in now.
The oil pressure is still maxed on the gauge, after warm up at idle it will drop to about 50PSI but if engine RPM is increased it goes past 80PSI.
Any sugestions on what might cause this? Is it possible that the relief valve is stuck? Where is the relief in the pump? Does the oil pan need to come off?
Can it be removed without pulling the engine? Thanks for any help!
Thanks
Steve
Let us know if this helps you, These autos are having this problem !
It died two miles from garage on the way home...back to mech he said it was a loose battery cable not giving enough spark to plugs.
It ran great for 2 days ...now back to intermittent stalling.
it does it while idling or running at highway speeds it seems like it stumbles a little.
Any help please?
The next day it wouldnt start...I found that the rotor was somewhat corroded so i cleaned it.
It fired up but we noticed that the spark from the coil seemed weak, so I replaced that.
This morning it idled fine so On the road it missed a little until it died completely.
Now I have no spark whatsoever from the coil and the ignition module tests fine.
AHHHHHHH
So under warranty, they towed my vehicle and replaced the engine. I got the special treatment of getting a 99 Lumina to drive! I picked it up several days later (on a Friday) with a new engine and headed home. All was fine for about 30 miles. Then the emissions light came on. I pulled into a parts store and had them scan my codes - P0171 and P0174 - right and left banks lean. I had them reset the codes, thinking it was a glitch with the new engine...30 or so miles later, got the code again.
I called the dealer Monday and explained the issue, to which they told me, "that's an emissions issue, unrelated to the engine and not under warranty"!!!!!!!!!
So I reset it again...and again it came on. Then I drove it about 100 miles and it went off...then another 30 or so and it came back on....
Since clearly I wasn't going to get any satisfaction from the dealer (4 hours away), I decided to call Warranty customer service...explained the issue, started getting the "it's an emissions problem not covered". I asked to speak to a supervisor that couldn't be found, was told one would call me back...waited for 4 hours...and had the original person call me back.....
"Sir, I spoke to the dealership service department and they said it wasn't related to the engine" UGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Long story short...Ms Customer service explained over and over and over that an O2 sensor is "different" from the engine...she couldn't understand how a trashed valve, or heavy smoke, could have damaged/fouled an O2 sensor!!!!!!
So..once I get this fixed on my dime, I'm trading the POS in...I guess there's a reason FORD is the #1 selling truck...I just wish I had listened to the ads...and wish my tax dollars hadn't been part of GM's bailout since it's going to be short lived!
Sorry for my rant...I've loved this truck...but the "Customer Service" blows!
The truck has a 454 with 400 trans and the 454 looks like the same as a carb but with a tbi adapter. Did they do this in factory ? If anyone can help i would appreciate any info
Oxygen sensors tend to diminish with age as contamanants accumulate on the tip and reduce their ability to produce voltage.With 60k on the odometer and white smoke coming out of the exhaust, I can see an O2 sensor fouling. You can check a sensor with a digital storage oscilloscope (best way) or digital voltmeter.
Start by cleaning the MAF sensor and check for a vacuum leak.
Corkscrew
Long story short...without thousands of dollars worth of diagnostic equipment, it's hard to determine whether sensors are working right or not. I started by having a neighbor take it in to the local dealership he works for - he got the codes scanned which came up as the same p0171 and p0174 ---but the dealership didn't want to get in the middle of the "argument" and get involved. Using an inexpensive scanner and a multimeter, I started looking at freeze frame data (couldn't see live data) and working though the troubleshooting tree outlined in a Mitchell manual. This isn't ideal - the data is incomplete at best and leads down false roads, but it's all I had.
I tried to locate an intake leak using propane, but couldn't get a rev....
First thing replaced - O2 sensors. No luck, just $320 and a 90 mile round trip drive to get the parts.
2nd thing replaced - MAF sensor. No Luck, another $170 and another 90 mile round trip for parts.
3rd thing replaced - MAP sensor. Again no luck, a days wait for the part and another $70.
At this point, started looking for other problems. I didn't have a fuel pressure gauge, but now I do $50 later. No luck (a good solid 60 psi)
Took a look at the throttle body - a fair amount of residue. Decided to remove it to clean well. While removing a nut off of one of the studs, the stud broke as soon as I went to loosen it. I thought "AH HA!" - figured the flunky had over-torqued the throttle body and it was sucking air. A drive to the local parts stores, then an ACE hardware, I finally came up with a suitable 6 mm bolt to replace the stud.
Guess what...no luck.
So...I call my neighbor at the local dealership...explain I've run out of options, replaced or checked everything that could have been a factor...and still no solution. At this point, I willing to pay for it to be smoke tested. I take it in, tested, and guess what: #6 cylinder intake gasket leaking!!!!!!!!!
In all of my emails and conversations with "customer service", I explained that the Lean Bank on both sides of the engine was very likely intake leaks from the engine assembly at the dealership....a point they continually dismissed as "it's an emissions problem".
So here I am - $610 in receipts for parts plus 180 miles in driving, 5 days of working on it, looking for parts, researching, etc....and 3 days late for going on vacation (it's a camping vacation and camping at a music festival, all paid for - but I need the truck to haul gear from NC to WNY), waiting on the dealership to get the intake gasket and get it reassembled. Oh, let's not forget the couple hundred miles driving to see if the codes would reset!
One more thing - the local dealer is fighting to get the repair covered since it was due to faulty installation by the out of town dealership 3 weeks ago, but by "Warranty" standards, gaskets are not covered! LOL
I suppose it's going to be lawyer time - I doubt I can get Bruce in India or Tom in Mexico to understand any of this....
I have an issue with '97 GMC with 225,000mi. It started a while ago with a P0300 that would occur intermittently. Then it started to get worse and the truck would shake, like it was cutting out. Currently it will start fine, warm up and then backfire when under light load at lower speed, high-speed cruising (mostly when being very light on the gas - kind or when you back out of it, then it will pop-pop-pop), or when I get off the gas when I reach speed. The truck performs pretty well when I get on it, relatively no hesitation and she has power.
I changed out the plugs, wires, cap, O2 sensors (upstream), transmission and converter, knock sensor, MAP, motor mounts, intake, exhaust, EGR valve, Evap Purge solenoid, and some more that I know i'm forgetting.
Bottom line - it's getting worse. I'm thinking it could be a PCM issue or another sensor that feeds the PCM values, because the truck will start and run fine until it warms up, after it goes "closed loop" the problems start kicking in. Another anomaly is that the truck will accelerate fine, that tells me the fuel pump is working well right?
I'm an active duty Marine and don't have a ton of money to throw at the issue. I decided to take it in the pants and brought it to the dealership here in DC. They kept it for nearly two weeks, never called me or returned my calls and so I went and got the truck back without any diagnosis. I can't afford to be without the vehicle for that long- or suck up the 120 an hour the dealer charges. Any help from you all is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your response!
Semper Fidelis -
Additional Details
WELL, we got it! Who knew.. It was the engine temperature sensor! It was failing so it was telling the throttle positioning sensor that the motor was cold so it kept dumping allot if fuel. So when the gas was pushed it flooded it and it would die! Problem solved!!
6 days ago
-I feel a rough idle while in park or stopped during travel. new plugs and wires, new air filter, cleaned throttle body and added fuel injector cleaner.
-I'm unable to locate a PCV or EGR valve. I've been told that my particular vehicle does not have a PCV valve.
-Suggestion? Advice?