Ford Ranger Starting Problems



  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    try jumping the solenoid..the little wire is the activation should "click"..if it clicks,and still doesn't start,replace the starter..if you jump between the large bolts ,and still nothing happens,it's the starte :sick: r..if the solenoid clicks,but doesn't work from the key,it's either the ignition switch,or the safety lockout hooked up to the clutch..
  • shadow51shadow51 Member Posts: 4
    88 ranger--165,000. new---tank--plug wires---plugs--filter --ignition module. starter n soleniod ok. u can be driving along n all the sudden--it dies--like no power--or no gas. or--after drivin a ways n might come out n hit it --n it wont start. checked for lose or broken wires. but--it will crank ok- n if u spray starting fluid in it--it will run till that is used up. new battery to. but--u can hear the fuel pump kick in when u hit the switch. leave her sit for a few hrs--or over nite n she starts. would a bad oxygen sensor cause it to run to rich n drown out? i aint pushin it either. help????!!!! :sick:
  • shadow51shadow51 Member Posts: 4
    this sounds like my truck. th emechanic s say it has to be something simple--cuz it runs to damn good other than just stoppin or not starting again after u drive awhile n turn it off. i am looking for these relays. would they be the ones next to the starter soleniod on the passengers side fender? seems to be 2 lil box thingys side by side with wires plugged in.. can u buy these at auto parts store? man i hope this it. please --give us a reply soon. my girl friend is gonna kick my [non-permissible content removed] n she is only 5;1 .. yeah--well--u have to know her. lol. lil package. a lot of dynomite.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    if it starts on starting fluid,it's a fuel delivery problem..put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail,and see if it's within spec' say new tank,did that include a new fuel pump??
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    i have run into this problem before..solenoid acting goofy..
    --in order for the coil inside the solenoid to activate the electromagnet-pushing the plunger up,and making contact with the two terminals(batt/starter),IT NEEDS A GROUND!!..check under where the solenoid is mounted,and clean up the rust and corosion under there..then,make shure the mounting bolts arereasonably tight-not "gorilla torqued",like some ape who doesn't know his own strength(i HATE when that happens-especially on lug nuts!)..try that..or,try running a ground wire to it..desprate times call for desprate measures..
  • motorbreath1motorbreath1 Member Posts: 1
    92 ranger 2.3L no start while i have fuel pressure new plugs and wires primary and secondary windings have apropriate resistance and i have new crank sensor and new ign. module .... i have paid my dues with crappy mechanics and i have had enough of buying parts so please if anyone has a clue on how to help please dorp a line... things that has been done fuel pressure , ign module, crankshaft sensor, still no start, engine turns good starter is good nutral safety switch is good, and plugs and wires .
  • shadow51shadow51 Member Posts: 4
    what is this EEC relay --u speak of--because this sounds alil like my 88 ranger. n i did all he did too. i can leave it sit awhile -or over nite n shazam--it starts. what is it n where the heck is it. thanx bro
  • yowman1yowman1 Member Posts: 3
    This sounds like my 1988 2.9 and it is still sitting in the driveway. because sometimes it starts and may run or not and if it does it will run for a minute and starts to flood so bad it will not run unless you stay on the pedal. Has good fuel pressure you can unplug the relay to the pump and just poor gas in pcv line and it starts and runs great until the gas is gone have got tired of trying things PLEASE HELP I know this is an on going problem and thanks to you for any and all help.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    motorbreath;you've got a real head scratcher there..have you run a compression check on it yet?..-cause spark,fuel,and compression SHOULD equal fire,but we are talking ford's here,or should i say,..mazda??!..this is the 4 cylinder with double spark plugs,-a set on each side,right??the one thing it might be would be the coil..make shure it's got a good ground!..that would make it quit ,then run later..i've even had one coil on a rangerthat would spark,but wasn't "hot" enough!!..i replaced the coil,-in the parking lot where it quit-and it worked!!..i was glad,since the walk to parts was the other way,and a mile closer than the house was..
    --ANYWAY,,i'd check the coil next..especially if the plugs were wet..if they smell of gas,pull all the plugs out,turn the engine over a few times-to clear the cylinders out,then burn the raw gas off of them(i used a torch,or a lighter),while there,check the gap,..then--it should fire..-cause ifin you'se got fuel,compression,and spark,you should get combustion!?!!..good luck
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    yowman,sounds like a injector is stuck open..witch plug is getting drowned out?that's the one..or,if you got throtle body,try TAPPING on it,cause it's made of plastic,and if you hit it like you'r driving a nail,it'll break!,but,maybe you can loosen the needle valve that's stuck to free up..also,crappy gas will do that to your fuel delivery system..they are charging us 4 bucks a gallon,and still sell us some of the crap i STILL find on the market??!!..put a tank of the good stuff in it,and you'll have fewer troubles like this!
  • mr93ford1mr93ford1 Member Posts: 2
    Replaced battery two days ago, started and ran fine for 2 days. Now the same issue as before-the dome light(and all lights, radio etc) come on, when I turn ignition key, I get one click and all lights go out, stay out. Same exact symptoms as before replacing battery. Possible short, or solenoid? Again, it worked fine for two days. Help! Thanks in advance!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Check both battery cables. Check closely for corrison inside the rubber, near the connectors, at both ends of the cables, but especially at the battery.

    Messing with the cables to put a new battery in gave a good connection for 2 days, then it failed again because several of the wires are eatten up, inside the rubber insulation.

    If the cables are ok, then keep checking 'downstream'. Solnoid or a bad starter.
  • mr93ford1mr93ford1 Member Posts: 2
    you were exactly correct!! New positive cable/terminal; all is good-thanks so much!
    I suspected this was the case as well
  • yowman1yowman1 Member Posts: 3
    Hey that was my thinking to found that it was the one on the driver side back put in a new one in and to my surprize did not fix the problem in the hayse manual it shows that on that model the distributor controls the fire and fuel have you heard or know if thats right also thanks for your reply.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    your thinking to...what??i'm usually good at decypherin ,but what one where?haynes manual?..i'm not tryin ya give ya greif,but i isn't shure of what y'all's askin..k?
  • yowman1yowman1 Member Posts: 3
    What the heck is all this stuff if you are wanting to make fun find a clown just trying to find out about the trucks problem not anythjing else.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    i'm just trying to help,but-if you would go back and read your post,--what were you asking??i don't understand!..i even went back two of your post's,and still don't know..
    not many would waste the time,or get snarky..i've not done that.
    so,if you would re-phrase your question,i will try again to answer it..k?
  • maloy_1maloy_1 Member Posts: 2
    For the past year and a half my truck will just decide not to start once I have driven it.. I have put a new fuel relay switch in, but done nothing else. If I wait sometimes 10 minutes sometimes 4 hours it will start. What the heck is the problem? Runs great otherwise, 126,000 miles, small 4 cyl. Will sometimes do this 5 times a day (yesterday) and then won't happen again for a couple months, then again maybe it will. help!
  • paulbenavidezpaulbenavidez Member Posts: 1
    did you find the problem? I have the same problem. I took it in and they said it must be the fuel pump. I had the filter replaced already. But another mechanic says it is the computer module.

    any ideas?
  • shadow51shadow51 Member Posts: 4
    hey -check the fuel cut off switch -under the passenger side fire wall--just above where ur toes would point. its the sixe of a pack of cigarettes. it will keep it from runnin--or stop it while going down the road. just by pass it as i did n it will run like a top. mine would do teh same as u all told here. then id go back n shed start fine. let me know how u do. :shades: :shades:
  • 98redranger98redranger Member Posts: 1
    Hi Guys, I've got a 98 Ranger standard cab pick up. I just bought it and I am experiencing a starting problem and I'm hoping one of you can help me find the solution. It's a 2.5 litre automatic transmission truck. It has plenty of battery and starts fine when the engine is cold. Once the engine has warmed up the truck won't start. I turn the key and the starter won't engage. The neutral safety switch is working fine. I tested the solenoid wire (on the starter) when it is able to start and when the ignition switch is in the start position, I get power and the engine starts. When the engine is warm, I don't get power to the solenoid wire when the key is in the start position. Also, when it won't start, I put the key in the run position and jump the solenoid wire to the starter wire and the starter engages and the engine starts. It has never failed to start when the enging is cold. Does anyone have an answer?
  • maloy_1maloy_1 Member Posts: 2
    I have the '94 ranger. I still do not know what the problem is. I changed the fuel relay switch and the fuel filter. Somebody told me (who fixed the problem ) that it is the ignition. Like another response I have an incling that it is the re-set button.
  • bill110643bill110643 Member Posts: 1
    My wheels are rusted and Iwould like to replace them, they are 14'' can Igo to 15'', it seems there are more choises in this size? :surprise:
  • C_K_GrodeckLPNC_K_GrodeckLPN Member Posts: 1
    Why is the distributor not turning?
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    what motor?..could be a shear pin that holds the drive gear at the bottom of the distributor--that would be your least expensive problem..ranging to a broken cam shaft,only turning a few of your valves-etc..or,could be a broken timing chain/gear/belt..but-odds are,something's F.U.B.A.R..
    (--fouled up beond all recognition)..pull the distrributor,and see if the gear in the motor moves..but then,you'll have to know how to drop a distributor in a motor..good luck!
  • congo_kingcongo_king Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 for ranger splash, 4.0 liter. Soemtimes the truck will not start. If I disconnect the positive battery terminal for a second, and reconnect it, it fires right up. I have replaced the battery, tested the alternator, replaced the PCM power relay, the fuel pump relay, and I am still having this problem. It is independant of temperature and other coniditons. It happens when it has been sitting all weekend, or if I have been driving it from store to store, if it's cold outside, or roasting outside, raining or dry . . . any thoughts are GREATLY appreciated . . thanks :) :confuse: :sick:
  • congo_kingcongo_king Member Posts: 2
    I had a camry that had a cracked ignition coil, so the car would shut off when warm sometimes, or it wouldn't start once warmed up, cause the crack would expand, but once cooled off, it would start fine. maybe this is the problem?
  • kbeachkbeach Member Posts: 1
    Hello. I have a 2000 3.0L flex fuel that I recently replaced the heater core in. This required the dash to be removed. After putting the dash back together, the truck will not start. All lights/instruments/controls seem to work. When starting the interior lights dim to nothing. The engine cranks but never turns over. Once you stop attempting to crank, all lights etc come back on. Took the battery to the local parts store, had it tested, and it was bad. Purchased new battery, installed, and truck does the same thing. Noticed with new battery voltmeter (?) gauge on instrument panel shows low voltage. Connections on battery are good/clean. Before I start taking parts off to have them tested (alternator, starter) I was curious if these could even cause the problem. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    tis will sound really stupid,b ut-try getting a large hammer,and give it a good whack..sounds like the starter got stuck on a bad spot ,and if not already out,verry nearly there..i got mine to get me home by hitting it a good one..
    the heater core replacement probably doesn't have any thing to do with it,except timing..
    if that don't do it,change the starter
  • smokee1smokee1 Member Posts: 2

    I have a problem, my truck won’t run for more than a few seconds, there is no response from the throttle, it barley starts and then it doesn’t gain any rpm’s (then it does, but drops back to a very slow rpm then stops.) I changed the fuel pump and regulator but no difference. I’m hoping that someone can help me diagnose the problem
    1998 Ranger, 3.0 engine V-6
  • smokee1smokee1 Member Posts: 2
    added information to the first listing, After I try to start for several times it catches and very slowly the rpms rise then it starts running like it should, so the problem is when I start when its cold and I live in southern california and it doesn't get that cold
  • greggazevedogreggazevedo Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 1989 ford ranger 4x4 4cyc., it will not turn over.My son figured out if you put some serious pressure on brake pedal it will turn over and start? I cant figure out what is causing this could someone please advise me where to start looking?
    Jakes Dad
    Gregg Azevedo
  • wiz1994wiz1994 Member Posts: 1
    After driving 5 to 10 miles the engine will just quit and there is no spark but then after resting for an hour or 2 it will start and run. It always cranks over but has no spark. I have replaced the distributor module but after reading on the site I am wondering if it could be EEC relay? And what is that?
    Thank you your help! Really appreciate it.
  • abidosabidos Member Posts: 3
    I recently had problems with my 1995 Ranger XLT where it would stop running all at once even while driving. After finaly getting it started and had the check engine light checked and found that the Crank Position Sensor was faulty. After replacing the Crank Sensor the truck ran great until a few days ago when after starting the engine it stopped after about a minute and now i can't get it started again. Any ideas on what might be wrong? I've also tried to locate the Ignition Control Module with no luck in locating it. Any help on where this is located? Thanks
  • abidosabidos Member Posts: 3
    How can i tell when my question has been answered?
  • ViceroyViceroy Member Posts: 1
    I have a similar problem after driving my 1992 3.0 v6 ranger for more than 30 minutes and then It won't start up again (due to fuel pump not priming once key is turned). Sometimes the truck cuts off as I am driving (very scary). I finally ended up replacing the fuel pump relay fuse (a green relay box (one of 3) under the plain view hood fuse box on the passenger side). I bought 2 extra fuel relays and just switch them out whenever my car doesn't start, like today. I'm thinking this is due to a short in the electrical system/wiring which causes the fuel relay to overheat and cut off. I have ruled out the fuel pump itself as the issue since it worked by itself once I put separate 12v power to the pump wires and it primed/made noise on its own. I also replaced the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, ignition control chip, and oxygen sensor, but to no avail. The battery, alternator, and inertia switch (at feet of passenger side) also checked out ok. I feel sorry for anyone who has this problem and hope this helps people not spend needless money replacing unnecessary components. I still haven't gotten to the bottom of this issue. Any suggestions would help, as I have sunk $400+ to remedy this and I'm about ready to roll my car down a cliff as a public service to my community.
  • rainnrainn Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 ford ranger 4.0 4x4 my problem is that the starter is staying engaged. When all of this first started is when I replaced my alternator and battery, then my charging light stayed on so then I replaced the alt fuse under the hood. The truck started up but then after a few starts the starter is staying engaged. I have replaced the starter the starter relay and ignition switch on the steering wheel I checked all the wires and they all look good and am still having the same problem. Does any one have any tips on what I need to do to get it working.
  • caluchcaluch Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem,did you solve it by changing the fuel relay under the hood???????????????
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    sounds like plugged exhaust-the "banna in the tailpipe" thing ..but,unlike the movies,the way exaust systems get plugged in the real world is cheap gas,and people NEVER flooring the car,and clearing out the exhaust!!..floor it -till it shifts--it knows when to shift!..if it's plugged already,you may have to replace the catylitic converter..(if you do take off the old one-it's worth $100 bucks at the junk yard-for a big one,but don't just throw them away,or let the mecanic guy "keep it" for free!?!!..make him take SOMETHING off the bill!,or,take it with you-they are your parts-not his!)..
    --try beating the hell out of the converter..i knocked the clog loose on a minivan--big cloud of black dust came out of the tailpipe,and then it ran SWEET!!
    --if that gets it going,change the o2 sensor,put good-premium gas in it,then take it for a L O N G cruise kicking it down every now and again-once it's hot(operating temp),then,quit "babying" it..thicker oil,and most any car will last longer !!
  • babtssmithbabtssmith Member Posts: 1
    92 ford ranger won't start. last time it ran the starter stayed engaged and then it died and i jump started it and then it ran when i turned it off it died and wouldn't start back up. We changed the starter, sillinoid, ignition starter switch, key ignition switch and it still won't start. It isn't even turning over. I don't know what else to try. Please hep
  • rockinjrockinj Member Posts: 2
    I have a 94 Ford Ranger that does the exact same thing. That is why I'm searching these message boards. Did you get it fixed? Did changing the fuel pump relay work? I thought it was just vapor locked because after 15 minutes it just starts right up like nothing every happened and it will be 2 months before it does it again.
  • rockinjrockinj Member Posts: 2
    my 94 ranger does the same thing. There is a recall on some fuel lines (they tend to crack). Could it be drawing air instead of fuel and causing it not to start intermittently?
  • warozzwarozz Member Posts: 2
    Hi all,

    I have a 1994 ranger 4x4 super cab I have had since new. Last week I started having an intermittent starting problem and I am lost so any ideas would be helpful. The truck is starting 99% of the time perfect, runs without hesitation and has plenty of power. Four times in the last week after starting and driving for a short distance I shut the truck off and it will turn over but not start, I let it sit for a few and all of a sudden it fires right up. Most times within a half hour or less, this last time though I had to let it sit at a friends overnight before it would finally start.

    I checked for spark and it's ok so I thought fuel was the issue. I tried swapping the ECC relay for the Fuel pump relay and that did nothing, I then changed fuel filters, problem still not solved. Sitting in the cab I have never heard the wine of the electric fuel pump when I turn on the key so I cannot say if it's coming on or not when it won't start. I have tried the fuel pressure release button at the throttle body and gotten nothing from it. I am leaning towards a fuel pump going out but it has none of the normal signs such as hesitation and lack of power.

    Any ideas to keep me from a costly diagnosis and repair at the shop would be much appreciated.
  • warozzwarozz Member Posts: 2
  • ranger91ranger91 Member Posts: 4
    I replaced the starter in my 1991 Ford Ranger Super custom cab XLT, started it twice with no problems then started it again and with the engine running the starter just kept on spinning so i thought it was the wiring fixed that and then i went to reconnect the battery and it just started spinning on it's own. i checked if the keys were in the ignition and they weren't. Can anyone offer suggestions or advice? :confuse:
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The new starter may not be matching up correctly with the flywheel. It may need to be 'shimmed', which means shims need to be placed under the mounts. This will align the engagement.

    I replaced a starter, and the alignment was not so bad that it continued to run, but it 'whined' loudly when engaged. The auto supply house (OReileys) gave me a set of shims and instructions when I went back there.

    Getting the shims in and the bolts thru the holes and shim may be troublesome.
  • ranger91ranger91 Member Posts: 4
    okay so i shimmed the starter on my 1991 Ford ranger Supercab, and now not only will it not start it wont even let me try to start it. I tried reconnecting the battery cables and it started arching and before that the starter had started spinning of it's own free will. What i think it may be is either the relay or the solonoid. Do 91's even have a solonoid and if they do where would it be at in the engine compartment. any ideas or suggestions please let me know. My ranger is my daily driver so i really need it running :confuse: :sick: :(
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    ?Well, I'm not really sure, but I think it has a relay/solnoid. I don't think it is the old round shaped one, it may be a strange shaped flat thing.

    Follow the positive cable. Follow the cable on starter back toward the battery. If you find something with a big cable in, a big cable out, and one or more small wires in, that may be it.
  • ranger91ranger91 Member Posts: 4
    well the relay is located right by the battery and i cleaned that off and it still wasn't working. I guess what i'm wondering is if there is a solonoid where do you think it would be?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The relay could be fried inside, cleaning will not help.
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