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Ford Ranger Starting Problems



  • ronz1ronz1 Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 Ranger XLT 2wd - new problem: sometimes I can't turn the key in the ignition - it's stuck until you jiggle the steering wheel. I don't want to wait until it gets permanently stuck off and needs to be drilled--- So, is there any alternative to taking it to a Ford Dealer to get the lock cylinder replaced ? I also don''t want to end up with 2 different keys - one for the ignition and one for the doors. This seems to be a Ford problem-same thing happend on my Villager and the dealer wanted $400 to fix it. Any ideas ?
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Fords are long known for doing this. My 91 SHO did this.
  • arnieboy1arnieboy1 Posts: 1
    i drove my truck to store, tried to start 3min later cranked like it wanted to start but didn't check for spark good checked fuel at in injectors good ??????
  • loqutusloqutus Posts: 1
    Similar to Arnieboy1, I stopped off at a store and when I turned the key to go home, all I got was a hard click. The engine would not even turn over. I turned the lights on, but even they did not dim after the click. No power to what?
  • yachtmanyachtman Posts: 1
    where is the starter relay located on a 98 ranger. i was told passenger side firewall searched for hours and didnt find a thing
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    wow!lots of peep's with old ford troubles..whodathunkit??
    if yiu turn the key,and nuthin happens,think solenoid..find the positive terminal on the battery,usually the red one,and follow it the six/ten inches to a round box bolted to the fender..take a jumper wire from the battery side to the little wire terminal,and this should make the starter work--if it's a stick-make shure it's in neutral-as you're bypassing all the idioit switches,and it WILL run over you!!..if the solenoid's ok,trace down the safety switch on the clutch pedal..or,the starter..
    to the guy with nuthing comes on,it's probably a fuseable link..these are the main power feeds located back at the solenoid,with a smaller wire in them,and should you short something,the wire is thin enough to burn through-like a fuse,before your wiring system does a "china syndrome" meltdown..get a circut testewr,and probe through the insulation-going more than a foot away from the connection at the solenoid..on gm's,it's down at the starter..wher the bater wire isfind a pattern here?/
    --a real primitive method for checking out a fuseable link-is to pull LIGHTLY on the wire..if the wire is good,that's not where the break is,but if it is,then all you will be pulling apart is the plastic insulation..
    be shure to replace with another fuseable link,but-to get home,you could strip it past the break,and make the connection..rember this is the last thing protecting your wires from the battery..a short WILL melt wires-think "cigarett lighter"..?!
    i've also had a "no start-will crank,but not run" situation,and altho i was getting a spark out of the coil,it wasn't hot enough!..replaced coil,and HAPPY MOTORING!!
    good luck! :shades:
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    follow the force,luke(rofl)..seriously,find the positive cable on the battery,and follow it!'s less than 1 foot from battery,two big brass bolts,with cables bolted to or two small wires,this activates the solenoid(the other big wire-it goes down to the starter..if you "jump" the little wire to the battery terminal,the starter WILL engauge-if it's working,so if it's a stick shift-put it in neutral,and set the will be ok..if you jump the solenoid,and don't hear a heavy click,or the starter engauge,replace the solenoid..if you DO hear the click,but not the starter,replace starter..
    good luck!
  • cntry60cntry60 Posts: 1
    It has a new solenoid and it wont start. You can try to jump the solenoid between the bolts and all it will do is the enterior lights come on. You can push start it and it`s fine. But if you shut it off you have to push it to start it. Give a guy some advice and thank you.
  • I have a 92 ranger 4x2 that i had got from my brother that had the same problem that i am having with it it wont start for the 8 months that i have had it there has been problems starting it i could pop the clutch on it and it would start but now it wont even do that a mechanic friend of ours said that it is an electric prob i put a spark tester on it and on the left hand side of plugs i could get it to blink the whole time i was turning it over but on the right hand side would only blink once when i tried to start it then wouldnt blink again i have asked alot of diff peps what it could be some say the crank sensor some say the fuel pump it cranks over like it wants to start just wont start when it went out on me i was on my way home it cut out just like the cruise control went off but then i hit the gas pedal and nothing so i pushed in the clutch and it died so i put it in 5th gear and it pop started again but still nothing from the gas pedal so i pushed in the clutch again and it died again this went on for a time or 2 more thank god i was less then 1/4 mile from my town pulled it into a strip mall and let it sit went back 2 or 3 days later wouldnt start so i was gonna tow it back to my house pushed it back outta the parking spot and the wife tried it and it started anyone got any suggestions on what to try next
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    if your near a auto zone-there EVERYWHERE here in ohio,or most auto parts places,and have them hook up their computer to your truck's saves the TROUBLE CODES..and will give you a better idea of where to start than my guesses..if it's not starting with the starter,try starting by fixing that..and going from there..that isn't as hard as push starting it..
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    try jumping the solenoid..the little wire is the activation should "click"..if it clicks,and still doesn't start,replace the starter..if you jump between the large bolts ,and still nothing happens,it's the starte :sick: r..if the solenoid clicks,but doesn't work from the key,it's either the ignition switch,or the safety lockout hooked up to the clutch..
  • 88 ranger--165,000. new---tank--plug wires---plugs--filter --ignition module. starter n soleniod ok. u can be driving along n all the sudden--it dies--like no power--or no gas. or--after drivin a ways n might come out n hit it --n it wont start. checked for lose or broken wires. but--it will crank ok- n if u spray starting fluid in it--it will run till that is used up. new battery to. but--u can hear the fuel pump kick in when u hit the switch. leave her sit for a few hrs--or over nite n she starts. would a bad oxygen sensor cause it to run to rich n drown out? i aint pushin it either. help????!!!! :sick:
  • this sounds like my truck. th emechanic s say it has to be something simple--cuz it runs to damn good other than just stoppin or not starting again after u drive awhile n turn it off. i am looking for these relays. would they be the ones next to the starter soleniod on the passengers side fender? seems to be 2 lil box thingys side by side with wires plugged in.. can u buy these at auto parts store? man i hope this it. please --give us a reply soon. my girl friend is gonna kick my [non-permissible content removed] n she is only 5;1 .. yeah--well--u have to know her. lol. lil package. a lot of dynomite.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    if it starts on starting fluid,it's a fuel delivery problem..put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail,and see if it's within spec' say new tank,did that include a new fuel pump??
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    i have run into this problem before..solenoid acting goofy..
    --in order for the coil inside the solenoid to activate the electromagnet-pushing the plunger up,and making contact with the two terminals(batt/starter),IT NEEDS A GROUND!!..check under where the solenoid is mounted,and clean up the rust and corosion under there..then,make shure the mounting bolts arereasonably tight-not "gorilla torqued",like some ape who doesn't know his own strength(i HATE when that happens-especially on lug nuts!)..try that..or,try running a ground wire to it..desprate times call for desprate measures..
  • 92 ranger 2.3L no start while i have fuel pressure new plugs and wires primary and secondary windings have apropriate resistance and i have new crank sensor and new ign. module .... i have paid my dues with crappy mechanics and i have had enough of buying parts so please if anyone has a clue on how to help please dorp a line... things that has been done fuel pressure , ign module, crankshaft sensor, still no start, engine turns good starter is good nutral safety switch is good, and plugs and wires .
  • what is this EEC relay --u speak of--because this sounds alil like my 88 ranger. n i did all he did too. i can leave it sit awhile -or over nite n shazam--it starts. what is it n where the heck is it. thanx bro
  • This sounds like my 1988 2.9 and it is still sitting in the driveway. because sometimes it starts and may run or not and if it does it will run for a minute and starts to flood so bad it will not run unless you stay on the pedal. Has good fuel pressure you can unplug the relay to the pump and just poor gas in pcv line and it starts and runs great until the gas is gone have got tired of trying things PLEASE HELP I know this is an on going problem and thanks to you for any and all help.
  • motorbreath;you've got a real head scratcher there..have you run a compression check on it yet?..-cause spark,fuel,and compression SHOULD equal fire,but we are talking ford's here,or should i say,..mazda??!..this is the 4 cylinder with double spark plugs,-a set on each side,right??the one thing it might be would be the coil..make shure it's got a good ground!..that would make it quit ,then run later..i've even had one coil on a rangerthat would spark,but wasn't "hot" enough!!..i replaced the coil,-in the parking lot where it quit-and it worked!!..i was glad,since the walk to parts was the other way,and a mile closer than the house was..
    --ANYWAY,,i'd check the coil next..especially if the plugs were wet..if they smell of gas,pull all the plugs out,turn the engine over a few times-to clear the cylinders out,then burn the raw gas off of them(i used a torch,or a lighter),while there,check the gap,..then--it should fire..-cause ifin you'se got fuel,compression,and spark,you should get combustion!?!!..good luck
  • yowman,sounds like a injector is stuck open..witch plug is getting drowned out?that's the one..or,if you got throtle body,try TAPPING on it,cause it's made of plastic,and if you hit it like you'r driving a nail,it'll break!,but,maybe you can loosen the needle valve that's stuck to free up..also,crappy gas will do that to your fuel delivery system..they are charging us 4 bucks a gallon,and still sell us some of the crap i STILL find on the market??!!..put a tank of the good stuff in it,and you'll have fewer troubles like this!
  • Replaced battery two days ago, started and ran fine for 2 days. Now the same issue as before-the dome light(and all lights, radio etc) come on, when I turn ignition key, I get one click and all lights go out, stay out. Same exact symptoms as before replacing battery. Possible short, or solenoid? Again, it worked fine for two days. Help! Thanks in advance!
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Check both battery cables. Check closely for corrison inside the rubber, near the connectors, at both ends of the cables, but especially at the battery.

    Messing with the cables to put a new battery in gave a good connection for 2 days, then it failed again because several of the wires are eatten up, inside the rubber insulation.

    If the cables are ok, then keep checking 'downstream'. Solnoid or a bad starter.
  • you were exactly correct!! New positive cable/terminal; all is good-thanks so much!
    I suspected this was the case as well
  • Hey that was my thinking to found that it was the one on the driver side back put in a new one in and to my surprize did not fix the problem in the hayse manual it shows that on that model the distributor controls the fire and fuel have you heard or know if thats right also thanks for your reply.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    your thinking to...what??i'm usually good at decypherin ,but what one where?haynes manual?..i'm not tryin ya give ya greif,but i isn't shure of what y'all's askin..k?
  • What the heck is all this stuff if you are wanting to make fun find a clown just trying to find out about the trucks problem not anythjing else.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    i'm just trying to help,but-if you would go back and read your post,--what were you asking??i don't understand!..i even went back two of your post's,and still don't know..
    not many would waste the time,or get snarky..i've not done that.
    so,if you would re-phrase your question,i will try again to answer it..k?
  • For the past year and a half my truck will just decide not to start once I have driven it.. I have put a new fuel relay switch in, but done nothing else. If I wait sometimes 10 minutes sometimes 4 hours it will start. What the heck is the problem? Runs great otherwise, 126,000 miles, small 4 cyl. Will sometimes do this 5 times a day (yesterday) and then won't happen again for a couple months, then again maybe it will. help!
  • did you find the problem? I have the same problem. I took it in and they said it must be the fuel pump. I had the filter replaced already. But another mechanic says it is the computer module.

    any ideas?
  • hey -check the fuel cut off switch -under the passenger side fire wall--just above where ur toes would point. its the sixe of a pack of cigarettes. it will keep it from runnin--or stop it while going down the road. just by pass it as i did n it will run like a top. mine would do teh same as u all told here. then id go back n shed start fine. let me know how u do. :shades: :shades:
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