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Ford Ranger Starting Problems



  • What size engine is this again? I tried to find it but couldnt...
  • Sorry 3.0 6 cyl. standerd
  • I have the same exact problem, and when it gets warm out it goes away, or when you had it started that day already it starts up fine. Mine is an '02 4.0. When I start it I just start it like a carbureator holding the gas pedal. But the engine still runs real strong even in this -5 degree weather. I suggest choke cleaner in the air intake. But I'm skeptical of doing this because I ruined a lawn mower that way before.

  • Try cycling the fuel pump twice before starting. If that helps, it could be that your fuel pump is losing pressure or your injectors need a good flushing.
  • skinymphskinymph Posts: 2
    Hey! So, I have a 2001 4x4 6cyl. 4liter Ford Ranger, and even when it's warm outside, I have trouble starting it. It starts and stalls two or three times before it gets going, and that's usually because I start giving it gas on the third time. Could it be the O2 sensors? I have no idea. Any thoughts? It seems to be getting worse.
  • hubbleshubbles Posts: 3
    I'm having what sounds like the exact same problem with my 2000 ranger (4.0L V6). Did you ever find a solution to this problem? (Starting, then sputtering and stalling out, particularly in cold weather)

  • mhilliermhillier Posts: 1
    Ok I got in the truck this morning to go to work -started the truck - the truck started but the starter did not stop trying to crank. I turned the key to the off position and the starter still ran... I attempted to pull the battery cable off but then it stopped. Did this twice before I gave up and used my wifes car to get to work. Very puzzled.... Where do I start.

    Thank you.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    -Bad starter.

    -Bad solonid. Aren't they separate on Fords? On the left inner fender?

    I don't know if Autozone, etc can check a solonid...

  • dino62dino62 Posts: 1
    4.0 SOHC, Almost every time i turn on my vehicle it turns off, the rpms wont go past 1000 anymore. I have to press on the gas for the truck to stay at 1000 rpms in order for me to drive. I've already changed the throttle body sensor, and i didn't feel a difference.
  • ok. i have an 84 ranger 2.8v6 it was running great when i came home last night but today it wont even turn over. battery reads 12.9v but when i turn the key the interior lights go out and wont come back on. the radio doesnt even come on. ive tried a jump box and jumper cables but the same thing...... i dont know where to start........
  • i have a 94 ranger 2.3l 4cyl manual transmission that i cant get to start.i'm not getting any spark at both of my coil packs.i've replaced one of them recently.i've also replaced the crankshaft sensor,the ignition control module,timing belt,and the battery is brand new.ihave checked the relays and they are good.the wiring harness has no damage to it that the wires maybe cut.any suggestions
  • balebale Posts: 1
    I have a ford ranger xtr cab 3.0 manual transmission. It started sputtering for about a week coughing black smoke when it started and then it stopped starting. I changed the fuel pump and it worked great when it was cold and when it warmed up it would start to sputter again. I changed the spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor cap and fuel filter and It still refuses to start. Does any one have any idea what could be the problem.
  • 94 Ford Ranger:
    My truck will periodically not start after being driven short distances. It will turn over like nothing was ever wrong with it if it sits for 30min-1hr.

    More frequently it has been also shutting off while I am driving. I will then have to sit for 15-30 Min before it will start again. Sometimes I'll be able to get where I am going after this, but other times it will shut off again in a mile or two.

    I have replaced Solonoid, engine coil, had a tune up and a new starter put on the truck.

    Nothing has fixed this problem, what else might it be?? :mad: :sick: :cry:
  • I have the exact same problem with my 94 Ford Ranger

    what the heck is it???????????
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Do you have fuel pressure?

    If not, the first thing to check is a fuel pressure relay. There are 2 or 3 relays by the main fuse box under the hood. If it is bad, the fuel pump will not work.

    There is also a fuel cutoff switch just under the edge of the carpet, on the 'hump', on the passenger side. This switch is to sense a rollover situation and shut the fuel pump down. Sometimes these malfunction.

    And, of course, the fuel pump itself inside the fuel tank.
  • what was the response on the anti theft reset deal
  • I was driving down the road at 65 and the truck just stalled out. I tried to start it but it just cranked over and did not fire. I had it towed to a mechanic and fuel pressure is good and I am getting spark.He also checked all the fuses and the emergency fuel cut off switch. what else could it be to make it just shut off with no warning? I was thinking it was either my fuel pump whitch came out to be good, or my timing chain broke. do you have any suggestions to help me?

    I have a (94 ford ranger V-6 3.o automatic tranny
  • I have a '97 ranger, 4 banger. I was recently having problems with my altenator shooting the right voltage to my battery, as indicated by a light on my dash and verified with my meter. I replaced the altenator and the battery as this has been a problem I let go long enough to fry the battery as well. The last few times I drove it before replacing these, however, a new quandry appeared that still has me perplexed. That is, when I turn the key the entire electrical system goes completely dead and I get nothing the next time I turn the key. I can disconnect the battery, though, for a few minutes and connect it and get power back to the instruments but will go dead again once the key is turned. With the entire electrical system being affected, I have suspected problems with the PCM or its relay. Am I going down the right path, or is there something I am overlooking? Thanks for your help!
  • I have a 90 ranger 4x4 xtended cab with 4.0liter and automatic transmission. I have a problem starting it in the morning. It takes @ least 2 times turning it over for a few seconds before it will start, and then runs perfectly. It is beginning to get worse, taking longer to start. The temperature doesn't seem to matter. Once i have started it for the day, it starts fine afterward as long as it doesn't sit for more than a few hours. I put the engine in this truck from my brothers wrecked 92 explorer, which also had this starting problem. The only electronics that remained from the explorer are those bolted directly to the engine, so I am assuming one of these sensors may be the culprit.
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    A couple of possibilities:
    - A weak fuel pump. Any motor is harder to start when cold, and you may not be getting enough pressure to the injectors. The fuel rail will have a schrader connection, where you can attach a fuel pressure guage. Sorry, I don't know the correct pressures you should look for.

    - There probably are two temperature sensors on the motor. (Although, with a motor transplant, who knows what is still hooked up....) One sensor drives the temp guage. The other sensor tells the computer that it is a 'cold start' and changes the gas delivery - basically I think this means it delivers more gas by keeping the injectors open for a longer time. If this sensor is bad, the computer does not know it is a cold start and uses the 'regular' gas delivery, which mean it is tough to start when cold. But warmed up, the 'regular' gas delivery is fine and the motor starts fine.

    I don't know exactly where these temp sensor are at, but my guess would be on or near the thermostat housing. Another guess would be that the sensor to the computer will have a pair of wires, black and yellow, twisted together. Replacing this sensor might be worth a try.
  • I discovered the solution (with some insight from a professional mechanic) to my starting problem was so simple I completely overlooked it: a bad connection at the negative post on the battery. The clamp on the post had been replaced bythe previous owner and the wiring coming from it was not making a good connection. I clened the wiring, put a closed-ended crimp connection on each wire, and reconnected to post clamp. I have had no problems since.
  • My beloved, super-dependable 1998 Ranger 4.0L has suddenly become very hard to start and will only run with pressure on the accelerator. It has had a couple of hard start moments over the last few months (temperature independent), but nothing consistent enough to be a clear problem. However, yesterday morning (it was below freezing) it would turn over, but not start, unless I gave it quite a bit of gas, and once started, it would only remain running with pressure on the accelerator.

    I should also admit that I test drove a chevy the night before, and my truck may simply be punishing me- however any insights as to how to make my truck happy again would be much appreciated. My previous ranger had serious fuel pump issues (went through three), so I am wondering if that could be happening to this truck as well.

  • To the previous post with a 1998 Ranger 4.0L, that sounds like an Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). I had that problem and was able to temporally fix it by removing it, blowing high pressure air into it to clean it, and putting it back (then driving to the store to get a new one). If it is the IAC, it will start and run fine if you depress the gas, but if you totally let off the gas it stalls out.

    Hope that helped
  • I have a 1996 ranger with six cylinder. When I turn the key I get nothing. No radio no dash no blower motor and engine will not turn over. I do have headlights and emergency flashers. The car has sat for months and the battery died. I changed the ignition switch, battery, solenoid cleaned all battery contacts body ground contacts and starter contact and still nothing. I checked all fuses at the dash location and at the power distribution box under the hood and everything is ok. . Turn the key and it's like it's dead. Anyone that can help I would appreciate it. I'm trying to get it running for a kid in the neighborhood.
  • I have a problem starting my ranger, I replaced the battery after a severe cold snap thinking this was the problem, yet it continues, I thought maybe cables you can boost it off and it wills tart. I boosted it off today drove it about 3 miles. Killed it and tried to restart, it was like there was no battery at all. HELP!! I took cables off and am going to replace them, but should I have started somewhere else, or should I try something else first?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Did you have your alternator checked out? That may be your problem.
  • fotd1fotd1 Posts: 2
    The original symptoms did not state whether the engine turned over, but did not start. There are a couple of known issues with some years of Ford Rangers that affect starting. The crankshaft position sensor goes bad; the engine turns over, but spark and injector firing are intermittent-if at all. Longer shot could be a problem with the wiring harness (cracked insulation). If the engine doesn't crank (assuming good battery) check interlock switch on clutch/auto trans.

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