Ford F-Series Powerstroke Diesel Problems
Exclusive discussion for the Powerstroke engine, and the older 6.9 and 7.3 "pre-Powerstroke" diesel engines as well.
kcram - Pickups Host
kcram - Pickups Host
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(Did you chip it, or add propane, or nitrous?) If you have any of these things and especially if you tow heavy, your exhaust temperatures can shoot up real hot, real fast, and exceed their normal operating range. I think if the exhaust gas temps go over something like 1200 or 1300 degrees for an extended period, then you can damage the turbocharger and associated gaskets.
If you only have the exhaust mod, I don't think it alone would cause the damage, but the dealer is probably thinking what I outlined above. Also, how heavy is your 5ver? And do you tow it through the mountains? IT can put a lot of stress on the engine.
Do you have a pyrometer to measure the exhaust temperature? It's good insurance to protect your diesel. That way when you're pulling a big hill with a heavy load in tow, you can monitor the turbo temperature, and back off on the go-pedal if you see you're getting too hot.
Another tip is if you've towing hard with your foot into it and the engine is really hot, don't shut it down as soon as you pull off the highway ramp. Either drive it a few miles at city traffic speeds, or let the truck idle for at least 5 minutes so that the turbo heat can dissipate. If you're turbo's glowing red hot and you shut off the truck, it will cause the oil in the turbo bearings to break down and cause premature failure of the turbo bearings.
As far as the current problem....you may want to try a different dealer for service as some are more lenient about mods than others. Do you have any documentation for the earlier overheating problem. A paper trail would help tilt things in your favor
I have a 2004 F350 6.0 Power Stroke Diesel.
Scenario: In May 06 i noticed antifreeze leaking in front of the truck so i took it to the dealer they replaced the hose. In June 06 smelled coolant leaking again and didn't notice any on the ground and the dealer replaced the clamp and hose. In July 06 I continued to have this problem and took it back to the dealer and they replaced the coolant bottle cap after it continued to leak. In Aug & Sept 06 it was leaking again, they ran their inspections and now they are telling me i need a new fan clutch. I've spent time and money dealing with these folks and was wondering if anyone else was having this issue.
Thanks,
BYoung
Ford sells an option - Automatic Idle Controller - keeps engine idling around 1200 rpm, engine runs hotter and prevents wet stacking.
MINE HAS JUST STARTED DOING THE SAME THING. IT WILL LEAK
FIRST THING IN THE MORNING WHEN I START IT TO WARM IT UP
BEFORE WORK. IT WILL POUR OUT OF THE RIGHT FRONT IT SEEMS
WHEN IT WARMS UP IT STOPS. IN THE AFTERNOON I CAN CHECK IT
AND THERES NO LEAK?
ANY ANSWERS? ANY HELP? WHERE IS IT COMING FROM?
WHAT IS IT? HOW DO I FIX IT?
Any one have any ideas?
Thanks, Kenny
Also, while my truck continues to run fine, for now, a customer brought his truck in last night barely running. He shut the engine off and the dealer couldn't get it started 'till this morning. Same problem and they've had four trucks in the last month, all with about 30K miles with bad pumps.
On a cold start up it idles rough and has a "miss" until warmed up. I was told these trucks have a common problem with the fuel injector wires causing this problem...but I can't find any info about this.
Heather
kcram - Pickups Host
Sound as though you may have a cam timing sensor problem,
Powerstroke common. Sensor is located left side of engine just above and behind harmonic balancer. This sensor can give false sense that pump and cam are not in time. Check Ebay for Price Usually $40.00 to 60.00. If this works keep one in the glove box for a spare. You will see picture on Ebay of What to look for.
Heather
it was the rod that runs the fuel pump was bent, the dealer
charged me about 180 dollars to replace it. You would think
that a Diesel engine would run it's fuel pump by direct
gearing off of the crank shaft, but instead it uses a push
rod running off a cam shaped piece of metal connected to the
end of the cam shaft like a 1955 Chevy 283 V8 gas engine,
go figure.
Now I don't know about anyone else but there is only one true safe upgrade for power is the superchips programmer, I pull 14K pounds with a Gooseneck trailer for the last 4 years now and will stand behind them 100%. There has only been a few times that the dumbie light has come on and I was pulling a long time up hill. I also race with my truck here in Colorado so it's not like I drive them easy, lol. I did just pick up a used 01 and it had a bad tranny in it but lucky for me we rebuild them because we all know that Ford can not build one to last, lol. If anyone needs a tranny that compares to the so called Stage 3 or 4's that sells for 3300.00 with a HP Converter that sells for 1500.00 alone, as long as your tranny is rebuildable we sell them for 3000.00 plus shipping. Shipping is going to be around 150.00 for you to send us yours with the Converter and we ship the Built one back to you. Yes we have cores and can charge you a core if we don't recieve your first but we would rather recieve yours first.
Hope everyone has a great weekend coming up !
Tony Prater
Mark.
Tony
I have a 2002 F250 Ford Diesel. Has anyone experienced this?
The motor is running, I shift into Drive and step on the gas. The truck won't move. Come to find out, a fuse is blown. Change the fuse, might be fine for a while, then it happens again.
I took the truck to a Ford dealership and they charged me $90 bucks and said they couldn't find the problem.
I would appreciate any help out there. Thanks