Good videos. Thanks for sharing. So the ASC could be switched off. This is a good feature. And I think it would stay off until the driver turns it back on. There are situations - like deep snow, when you may want to switch the ASC off and switch on 4WD Lock.
Third row jumper seat is stowed for now. However, I was just wondering in the future when I might need it, how do I get rid of the cargo divider along with it's rails? Or is there a way to push it further back? Otherwise that jumper seat wont work.
Will that cost MPG? 99.99% of the time, isn't front wheel drive just fine? Does Mitsu say MPG will be best in front wheel drive mode?
I've done long drives in both 2WD and 4WD AUto, and the overall mileage didn't have a significant change. Even the realtime MPG readings are about the same. Although the Mitsu manual say that 2WD is most economical, but by how much, that I haven't measured accurately.
Are you referring to the cargo cover? You got a Canadian Outlander right? Well, I thought it was nice to have it (cover) but I figured it's a bit of a hassle to remove it when you needed the 3rd row seat.
The "blind spot mirror" looks bad , however it must be the law to have this feature in Asia. It is problably very efficient.
It's probably a safety feature in Japan, and they needed it since they are right driving right hand there. And I thought that's pretty neat. Not all of Asia drive Right hand, only a few countries.
Yes its a canadian outlander xls so it's a bit more loaded than its counterpart in states. I might have to go to the dealer when time comes I guess. There are so many features that I just dont seem to use on this vehicle. Off the top of my head, I dont use 1. paddle shifting (just D until I figure how to do it right) 2. cargo cover 3. third row (for now) 4. bluetooth (old school cellphone - gotto get rid of it) 5. mp3 jack (do I have one?) 6. roof rack rails 7. power outlets
See, I'm glad they didn't offered those toys in the US (except BT, paddle shift and roof racks) and jack up the price to, say, about 1000$ more. I'd rather have those as options, or better yet, let us have those toys for no added cost, but that wouldn't happen I know.
Among those you mentioned I find (1) paddler shifter as essential. Although the smooth 6 speed auto will almost make the paddle shifter useless for most drivers used to auto trans, but for some, to include me, who used to drive manual, it's a pretty indispensable feature. Adds ton of thrills to the driving pleasure when you worm your way through the traffic. Isn't that nice to have the torque you wanted when overtaking, without waiting for the auto transmission, and skip that engine revving and just get to a gear you wanted when you want it. That's the beauty of paddle shifting, power when you need it, at the right amount, at the right time.
(2) Bluetooth is a necessity for me. I have a BT capable phone,and the safety this technology offers is too good to pass. I have taken 45mins long distance calls using the BT interface, while I'm driving in the freeway. I wouldn't want a car without this feature. And I would suggest all driver's to get one if there phone is BT capable. I wouldn't recommend a BT headset that hangs into one ear all the time as this limits your hearing field, so you're prone to danger when on the freeway because you can't stereo locate accurately with your ears.
(3) Roof racks, maybe I can live without it, but I'd rather have it than not having it. I'm looking at aftermarket crossbars for me to hang my mountain bikes when summer arrives, and do some serious off-road action with my Outlander, in 4WD mode of course
I agree.. most of those features will come in handy some day. Otherwise I wouldnt have them. Its just that I am not using them today.. doesnt mean that I wont down the road. :P
As far as 4WD and offroading goes, mine will never see offroad. I mean never. Its there for snowy/wintry days which are like half the year where I live (Toronto). 4wd is very useful in snow/slush and I am glad I have it.
I went with the ES model because AWD is VERY rarely needed here and I knew I'd be paying for "goodies" that I really wouldn't use if I went with the LS or XLS.
1) You can roll down/up all the windows from the driver side if this is what you mean be "remote". Driver's window has one touch up/down function too. 2) There is a gas cap tether and I believe there is holder on the fuel door too.
I am cursed with this "pulling to the left" problem. No matter what car I buy, it never tracks straight. Alignment while a possibility, I've had it only for one week now and AFAIK, I never hit a curb or any such thing.
It seems okay in the right most lane but once I move the left most lane which is banked, I notice it right away..
Haha.. <200lbs. I am going to try the middle lane today to see if it eventually wanders off again. I have a feeling that maybe leftlane on 401 is a bit steeply banked.
Try it on a stretch of 400 (between Sheppard and Steels). The road is straight and plan. 401 is all waves even on most of the newly paved sections. If you had problems with all your cars before it must be the roads where you are trying them on. Hard to find a good road for this purpose in GTA.
Hello outlander owners. I am going to buy one and I want to ask you how is outlander at cold start. Is engine is rough or smooth on the start? And I read that oil pan is made of aluminum, the whole oil pan or the bottom part is made of steel. What is oil change interval? I'd appreciate your input.
I just got a new Odyssey last month, and I'm having a problem with the wind noise. It sounds like an old car. I took it to the dealer, and they said it's the turbulence, as speed goes up, it gets louder. Nothing has been fixed yet. So far, they wrote it off as Odyssey's characteristic. I just wonder if someone else has this problem fixed. Thanks.
Not sure if the ticking / tapping noise is normal for this engine? Anyone else hear the valvetrain chatter? or perhaps lifters. I am a tad bit concerned over this.
I think somebody else complained about it. You might want to go back to the dealership and compared the noise with other vehicles in stock. In my case, engine noise was pretty much the usual rev noise.
I haven't seen a any crash test result on the outlander. The rear clamshell tail gate is also the rear fender\bumper. Will this survive a minor rear fender bender without major repair cost? Anybody experienced this? Since the lower portion locks to the top portion of the tail gate - will both parts have to replaced before you can drive again safely? How close is the third row seat to the rear?
I purchased my Mitsubishi Outlander XLS 4WD Dec 27, 2006. It now has over 5,000 miles. I have a question of other 2007 Outlander owners. Are you experiencing any paint chipping issues around the rear wheel fenders and rear doors? I am having serious issues and believe it is because of a design issue. Mitsubishi claims it is only because of road hazards. The problem is I have lived in the same location for the past 14 months and have four cars. None of them, including my own previous vehicle, have had any paint chipping issues. If this issue is occurring with other Outlanders then Mitsubishi will have to take a second look. Right now they are kind of ignoring me and are saying this is not a warranty issue. The are helping me on a "one-time goodwill basis". If this is happening to others and becomes a warranty issue, then I won't have to worry when it happens again because they will have to fix it on their dime. I had major paint chipping issues within the first week of ownership and had it re painted. I now have even worse chipping issues and it's only been two months. Your help would be greatly appreciated.
I've only got about 1,000 on mine so far, but no chipping. You might want to get some of the factory mud flaps, they look pretty good and protect the paint.
I have 2200km and no chipping here either. But I noticed that front and rear bumpers have slightly darker shade of color than the rest of the body. Perhaps same paint on metal looks a little lighter than on plastic?
That's what I had been thinking, as well. Do you currently have mud flaps installed? If not installing them should really make a difference by keeping flying road debri to a minimum. I have them on my current vehicle and often times can hear things bouncing off of them which I know would otherwise have been impacting the body and the paint.
Yes, I had factory mudflaps (front and rear)installed after 10 days of ownership and the first paint repair. Since then things have gotten much worse and the chipping area has become larger. Thanks for your message.
Picked up my new XLS today. Very happy with it and got a surprise. The dealer told me that the loaded XLS comes with heated mirrors. It automatically turns on when using the rear defogger. Have a little mirror rattling problem but I have to pay attention to it and the radio is off. Very windy in NY today so I'm not sure about wind noise and don't have the front end clunking sound yet. The handling of this vehicle is great. It's on par with my family's E320 and Jaguar S-type. Not as good as the Volvo S70 but better than the MDX. It's just my own opinions so don't quote me and it's much cheaper than all those cars.
Thats high praise for handling. My only drive I found it to be tight. My XLS is lost in taransit. My salesman is going bonkers trying to find it. I got everything except Nav and 4WD. Getting the Desert Beige.
Hello everyone! I didn't bought an Outlander but i had the pleasure to test drive one for 3 days. It was an LS model, blue with tan interior, 4wd. Wow im so impressed with the new Outlander. I really love it! The MIVEC V6 really pulls and have tons of power. Exterior style is very sharp. The split tailgate is a GREAT idea. The sporty leather wrapped steering wheel feels great and looks nice. Front bucket seats are extremely comfortable. No blind spots whatsoever. My gas mileage was 20mpg. Ok now the things Mitsubishi need to improve: interior door panels are way to much hard plastic. The sun visors are too cheap and small. There was this whistling sound coming from driver side window or outside mirror when driving above 40mph. I believe they fix that with some foam padding. The most disturbing thing that NEEDS to be adreess is the radio, horrible reception, the display is dark and with sunglasses completely dissapears, i found myself struggling to see the display and had to adjust the bass/treble all the time in order to find clarity, all sounded dull. I personally can live with then cheap visors and door panels, but NOT with a bad radio. That kills me. I haven't tested the Rockford Fosgate, i believe should be way better. Other than the radio I LOVE the Outlander. Awesome engine, seats, steering wheel, design, looks, tailgate. I would buy one if i had the money but i live in Florida...which means IM BROKE!!! LOL. :P
I was told that the ship day was in February. I didn't have a chance to test it out. It's not snowing and the weather is not cold enough. I just have it for 2 days.
have owned my 07 outlander 3months had mud gaurds instaled before delivery after 1900 miles the rear door and fender flairs are chiped bad.dealer says needs running boards problem is nobody makes them for outlander.other than that its a deasent car
Alright, anyone has ideas as to how I can relieve the stress off the front suspension? I noticed couple times front wheels trying to spin hard and drag the weight while trying to steer at the same time. Okay my foot was in the pedal a tad bit but you get the idea.
My question is which is the best mode 4wd or 4wd lock for shifting more power to the rear? Without penalizing fuel consumption too much? Or is it an oxymoron? If there is a way to transfer 60% to the rear, then front suspension and tires will last a lot more longer IMO. But it begs the question whether the rear differential and gear box can take the heat?
First, tire pressure check, lower it to 32pSI, which I think you did. Next, go easy on the gas pedal. After driving this SUV for 4 mos now, I got to know how to push the gas pedal, and I even improved on my mileage. Always accelerate at a decent rate, never push the vehicle to accelerate fast. While it can handle that maneuver with so much ease, the ride won't be smooth. If you want to distribute torque evenly, use 4WD Auto. 4WD Lock on conditions that permit good road contact with the tires is bad for your tires and the vehicle because 60% of the torque is sent to the rear at all times. Imagine your rear wheels trying to spin faster the front. You'll get premature tire wear with that. Leave that 4WD Lock option when your climbing a hill, or negotiating a puddle, or running on sand dunes. Asphalt on a sunny day needs nothing more than 4WD Auto or 2WD, unless it's snowing or raining hard then you switch to 4WD Lock
I dont think I understand the 4wd lock feature correctly. If rear wheels get more power, then it is a good thing right? Almost like a RWD.. okay 60%.. front wheels are free to do the steering. Not much pulling to do. What am I missing here..
The 4WD system in the 07 Outlander is described in Mitsubishi's press release below. Read it carefully and you will get all your answers: 07 Outlander in detail
"If you want to distribute torque evenly, use 4WD Auto. 4WD Lock on conditions that permit good road contact with the tires is bad for your tires and the vehicle because 60% of the torque is sent to the rear at all times."
If you read Mitsubishi's description of the 4WD system, you could see that the front/rear torque ratio is automatically determined by the computer, both in 4WD Auto and 4WD Lock mode and therefore is variable in both modes. The difference between the two is that in 4WD Lock, 50% more torque is sent to the rear, COMPARED TO the 4WD Auto mode. UP TO 60% of the available torque, COULD be sent to the rear. Another notable thing is in 4WD Auto mode, UP TO 15% of the available torque is sent to the rear, even no slippage is detected. Therefore, even on dry pavement, when in 4WD Auto mode, there is some torque going to the rear so you cannot say that the car is FWD in these circumstances. It's all in the link I provided. This subject has been beaten to death recently on another forum. Probably the best mode to drive in on a daily basis is 4WD Auto. Reason: it appears that there is not much gas saving versus 2WD, you get slightly better performance when needed by having SOME torque going to the rear ALL times.
Well I didn't mean to be too technical in my post, And by even I don't mean 50/50 split, I'm just saying in layman's term that torques is more evenly distributed when you're 4WD auto mode, as compared to 2WD mode, which he said he experiences torque steer. I guess nobody will argue that the 4WD mechanism is variable and computer controlled, and that it doesn't work like the traditional 4WD of old.But thanks for the link, that one was more comprehensive. Somehow I can't remember all that percentages all the time, so I go by a more easily remembered picture in my mind.
Here's a more layman approach to that 4WD mechanism by mitsubishi: http://www.peugeot.com/produits/modeles/4007/en/default.htm It's a Peugeot 4007 page, and the 4WD transmission video is at the top right. That'd be simple enough to remember. Don't worry about it being a peugeot, it's still all mitsubishi parts in that transmission.
Comments
I've done long drives in both 2WD and 4WD AUto, and the overall mileage didn't have a significant change. Even the realtime MPG readings are about the same. Although the Mitsu manual say that 2WD is most economical, but by how much, that I haven't measured accurately.
It's probably a safety feature in Japan, and they needed it since they are right driving right hand there. And I thought that's pretty neat. Not all of Asia drive Right hand, only a few countries.
1. paddle shifting (just D until I figure how to do it right)
2. cargo cover
3. third row (for now)
4. bluetooth (old school cellphone - gotto get rid of it)
5. mp3 jack (do I have one?)
6. roof rack rails
7. power outlets
Among those you mentioned I find (1) paddler shifter as essential. Although the smooth 6 speed auto will almost make the paddle shifter useless for most drivers used to auto trans, but for some, to include me, who used to drive manual, it's a pretty indispensable feature. Adds ton of thrills to the driving pleasure when you worm your way through the traffic. Isn't that nice to have the torque you wanted when overtaking, without waiting for the auto transmission, and skip that engine revving and just get to a gear you wanted when you want it. That's the beauty of paddle shifting, power when you need it, at the right amount, at the right time.
(2) Bluetooth is a necessity for me. I have a BT capable phone,and the safety this technology offers is too good to pass. I have taken 45mins long distance calls using the BT interface, while I'm driving in the freeway. I wouldn't want a car without this feature. And I would suggest all driver's to get one if there phone is BT capable. I wouldn't recommend a BT headset that hangs into one ear all the time as this limits your hearing field, so you're prone to danger when on the freeway because you can't stereo locate accurately with your ears.
(3) Roof racks, maybe I can live without it, but I'd rather have it than not having it. I'm looking at aftermarket crossbars for me to hang my mountain bikes when summer arrives, and do some serious off-road action with my Outlander, in 4WD mode of course
As far as 4WD and offroading goes, mine will never see offroad. I mean never. Its there for snowy/wintry days which are like half the year where I live (Toronto). 4wd is very useful in snow/slush and I am glad I have it.
2)is there a gas cap tether/holder?
thanks
2) There is a gas cap tether and I believe there is holder on the fuel door too.
No
2)is there a gas cap tether/holder?
Yes
It seems okay in the right most lane but once I move the left most lane which is banked, I notice it right away..
If you had problems with all your cars before it must be the roads where you are trying them on. Hard to find a good road for this purpose in GTA.
I'd appreciate your input.
Once warmed, the tranny is smooth and the idle is around 500.
The rear clamshell tail gate is also the rear fender\bumper. Will this survive a minor rear fender bender without major repair cost? Anybody experienced this?
Since the lower portion locks to the top portion of the tail gate - will both parts have to replaced before you can drive again safely? How close is the third row seat to the rear?
IIHS 07 Outlander
http://www.euroncap.com/content/safety_ratings/ratings.php?id1=6
4 stars for the Outlander, I think it missed 5 by one or two points. Not horrible, but we'll see what NHTSA says soon (hopefully).
Thanks for your message.
car57
Tomorrow, I want to go test drive a Porsche Cayenne for three days and I need your line of BS....
thanx.....
My question is which is the best mode 4wd or 4wd lock for shifting more power to the rear? Without penalizing fuel consumption too much? Or is it an oxymoron? If there is a way to transfer 60% to the rear, then front suspension and tires will last a lot more longer IMO. But it begs the question whether the rear differential and gear box can take the heat?
07 Outlander in detail
If you read Mitsubishi's description of the 4WD system, you could see that the front/rear torque ratio is automatically determined by the computer, both in 4WD Auto and 4WD Lock mode and therefore is variable in both modes.
The difference between the two is that in 4WD Lock, 50% more torque is sent to the rear, COMPARED TO the 4WD Auto mode. UP TO 60% of the available torque, COULD be sent to the rear.
Another notable thing is in 4WD Auto mode, UP TO 15% of the available torque is sent to the rear, even no slippage is detected. Therefore, even on dry pavement, when in 4WD Auto mode, there is some torque going to the rear so you cannot say that the car is FWD in these circumstances.
It's all in the link I provided. This subject has been beaten to death recently on another forum.
Probably the best mode to drive in on a daily basis is 4WD Auto. Reason: it appears that there is not much gas saving versus 2WD, you get slightly better performance when needed by having SOME torque going to the rear ALL times.
Here's a more layman approach to that 4WD mechanism by mitsubishi: http://www.peugeot.com/produits/modeles/4007/en/default.htm
It's a Peugeot 4007 page, and the 4WD transmission video is at the top right. That'd be simple enough to remember. Don't worry about it being a peugeot, it's still all mitsubishi parts in that transmission.