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Comments
I've done long drives in both 2WD and 4WD AUto, and the overall mileage didn't have a significant change. Even the realtime MPG readings are about the same. Although the Mitsu manual say that 2WD is most economical, but by how much, that I haven't measured accurately.
It's probably a safety feature in Japan, and they needed it since they are right driving right hand there. And I thought that's pretty neat. Not all of Asia drive Right hand, only a few countries.
1. paddle shifting (just D until I figure how to do it right)
2. cargo cover
3. third row (for now)
4. bluetooth (old school cellphone - gotto get rid of it)
5. mp3 jack (do I have one?)
6. roof rack rails
7. power outlets
Among those you mentioned I find (1) paddler shifter as essential. Although the smooth 6 speed auto will almost make the paddle shifter useless for most drivers used to auto trans, but for some, to include me, who used to drive manual, it's a pretty indispensable feature. Adds ton of thrills to the driving pleasure when you worm your way through the traffic. Isn't that nice to have the torque you wanted when overtaking, without waiting for the auto transmission, and skip that engine revving and just get to a gear you wanted when you want it. That's the beauty of paddle shifting, power when you need it, at the right amount, at the right time.
(2) Bluetooth is a necessity for me. I have a BT capable phone,and the safety this technology offers is too good to pass. I have taken 45mins long distance calls using the BT interface, while I'm driving in the freeway. I wouldn't want a car without this feature. And I would suggest all driver's to get one if there phone is BT capable. I wouldn't recommend a BT headset that hangs into one ear all the time as this limits your hearing field, so you're prone to danger when on the freeway because you can't stereo locate accurately with your ears.
(3) Roof racks, maybe I can live without it, but I'd rather have it than not having it. I'm looking at aftermarket crossbars for me to hang my mountain bikes when summer arrives, and do some serious off-road action with my Outlander, in 4WD mode of course
As far as 4WD and offroading goes, mine will never see offroad. I mean never. Its there for snowy/wintry days which are like half the year where I live (Toronto). 4wd is very useful in snow/slush and I am glad I have it.
2)is there a gas cap tether/holder?
thanks
2) There is a gas cap tether and I believe there is holder on the fuel door too.
No
2)is there a gas cap tether/holder?
Yes
It seems okay in the right most lane but once I move the left most lane which is banked, I notice it right away..
If you had problems with all your cars before it must be the roads where you are trying them on. Hard to find a good road for this purpose in GTA.
I'd appreciate your input.
Once warmed, the tranny is smooth and the idle is around 500.
The rear clamshell tail gate is also the rear fender\bumper. Will this survive a minor rear fender bender without major repair cost? Anybody experienced this?
Since the lower portion locks to the top portion of the tail gate - will both parts have to replaced before you can drive again safely? How close is the third row seat to the rear?
IIHS 07 Outlander
http://www.euroncap.com/content/safety_ratings/ratings.php?id1=6
4 stars for the Outlander, I think it missed 5 by one or two points. Not horrible, but we'll see what NHTSA says soon (hopefully).
Thanks for your message.
car57
Tomorrow, I want to go test drive a Porsche Cayenne for three days and I need your line of BS....
thanx.....
My question is which is the best mode 4wd or 4wd lock for shifting more power to the rear? Without penalizing fuel consumption too much? Or is it an oxymoron? If there is a way to transfer 60% to the rear, then front suspension and tires will last a lot more longer IMO. But it begs the question whether the rear differential and gear box can take the heat?
07 Outlander in detail
If you read Mitsubishi's description of the 4WD system, you could see that the front/rear torque ratio is automatically determined by the computer, both in 4WD Auto and 4WD Lock mode and therefore is variable in both modes.
The difference between the two is that in 4WD Lock, 50% more torque is sent to the rear, COMPARED TO the 4WD Auto mode. UP TO 60% of the available torque, COULD be sent to the rear.
Another notable thing is in 4WD Auto mode, UP TO 15% of the available torque is sent to the rear, even no slippage is detected. Therefore, even on dry pavement, when in 4WD Auto mode, there is some torque going to the rear so you cannot say that the car is FWD in these circumstances.
It's all in the link I provided. This subject has been beaten to death recently on another forum.
Probably the best mode to drive in on a daily basis is 4WD Auto. Reason: it appears that there is not much gas saving versus 2WD, you get slightly better performance when needed by having SOME torque going to the rear ALL times.
Here's a more layman approach to that 4WD mechanism by mitsubishi: http://www.peugeot.com/produits/modeles/4007/en/default.htm
It's a Peugeot 4007 page, and the 4WD transmission video is at the top right. That'd be simple enough to remember. Don't worry about it being a peugeot, it's still all mitsubishi parts in that transmission.