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Ive been trying to get mitsu to do somthing since march with no help and I might say they have become quite rude.
So far I have paid $1500.to repair there damage.body shop says this will happen again because of design.mitsu says road hazard I say bull RCPAX will say sell or trade Iam not ready to lose $12000.yet.I built running boards for it hope
mitsu gets there head out of the sand and does the same.
all in all its not a bad vehicle,but mitsu hase a problem.GOOD LUCK.
Read article on http://www.mercurynews.com/drive/ci_7200769
then click on related story "Toyota slips behind rivals..."
Consumer Report rated Rav4 & CR-V higher than Outlander on initial reviews, but the truth to be told now.
GO Mitsubishi.
Jvaine did predict you would say that!
In any case, let's move on and discuss the Outlander and not each other.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
As I cannot get anyone at the Mitsubishi Canada 800 number to return my calls I can not comment on whether they are ready to step up and give us all the benefit of a the redesign - and I'm not holding my breath. Nice "truckette" though.
I'd recommend either larger mud flaps or paint shield if you're driving in conditions that are damaging your paint.
This body trim is available in Europe and other markets for the long time, just not in the US. No real changes for 08' other than new engine choice, as far as I know. With so many Outlanders sold over the last year, this would be well known problem, if it is real.
See more Car Pictures at CarSpace.com
I think that there must be in the US a place where to implement this feature. A paint with rubber properties may do the trick, so there is not need to trade the Outlander if this phenomena is the main cause of worries. Does somebody have experience with implementing this feature to his/her Outlander?
The European model has wider side protection trim that the Japanese version. It almost covers the half of the doors from the bottom.
Can you do it in Canada or in Mexico?
Getting nowhere with the dealership. Looking for someone who may have installed running boards. where did you find them. Also, do running boards solve the problem. Also, are 16" wheels giving anyone this problem or only the 18's.
Frustrating. Sorry I bough the car now. Otherwise I was loving it.
Dealer - "it's because I have oversized snow tires on " yeah and his IQ is over 16 too. Not! Its a waste of time when we all know this is a design error especially when the new plastic overlays have been shown in Japan and Europe. It's unlikely I'll keep this puppy longer than next fall. The AWD is a joke and this paint issue is going to cost me either $600 deductible for an isurance claim or $3200 if I pay myself. Which to choose..??
http://shop.zontarh.com/epages/es104761.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es104761_sho- p/Products/RT800156/SubProducts/RT800156
Scotchgard Paint Protection Film
Paint Protection Film with pressure sensitive adhesive. This film is specially designed to preserve the beauty and integrity of exterior automotive finishes. It is ideal for protecting Class A surfaces in high-wear areas from stone chipping, abrasion, and most types of environmental damage. Best of all, it is virtually invisible. It is clear coated to help make.
DIY seems not to be an option and 3M recommends to use the services of a 3M certified skill person to do the job. The online Web site give instruction of how to get 3M certified people in your area, just by entering your zip code.
Before I read about this 3M product I was thinking to use an All Weather Repair Tape that I could buy from Wal-Mart and cover those areas that are more susceptible to be damaged. However I do not know if this could damage the paint permanently after one-year or can be easily removed from the door. I have used all weather tape (sell tape) to hold on place a plastic rear brake light lamp partially broke. So far I have using this tape for about 4 years and what I do is to change the tape on the lamp every year. The lamp is still working and no water come in it yet.
Does someone have some experience in doing something similar, i.e. using tape? Employing a 3M certified people to do the job; certainly it is assured quality and perfection but I think this will not cost less than $100.
How hard were they to install? What was the total cost to get them from New Zealand?
You can check with Zontarh about the shipping cost to NZ, I think it calculates it on the web site.
Based on my observation from today's driving in snow and slush (we got a good snow storm in Toronto yesterday), after installing the mudguards last week, only the very bottom part of the doors is still affected by the debris and the side garnish would solve most of the problem (you cannot account for odd deflections to say 100%). The round part of the rear door is still affected, but up to a lower line. I will extend the clear film already on the car to the same level as the top of the back wheel to be on the safe side. Before installing the mudguards, the dirt would hit higher on that area of the door so the mudguards do help.
In regards to the ROAR side garnish installation, the instructions call to drill the doors, but from talking to Zontarh he said that all installations were done using tape. The side garnish comes with tape around the perimeter anyway; you only need some extra for strength at 3-4 mounting points, where the plastic clips for the "drill" installation would be.
http://www.carspace.com/mcollis/Albums/Mary%27s%202007%20Outlander/
I plan to write a letter describing the issue, include photos, include Mitsubishi's "Corporate Philosophy" statement (right from their website) and send the packets to all NA corporate offices as well as to the office in Japan.
My dealer will repaint but that is not going to correct the design issue.
http://www.carspace.com/mcollis/Albums/Mary%27s%202007%20Outlander/
Car is freshly washed, so what you see is not road salt, but chipped paint. I live in central NY and drive suburban and rural roads to work (8 miles each way). It's winter and there is grit/salt on the roads, but NO other car I've had has shown this damage despite having been driven on the SAME roads. Why have 4-wheel drive if you can only drive on pristine roads (i.e., no sand, etc.)?
In the scheme of life, there are obviously more serious issues, but this has put me off of Mitsubishi (and I took a leap moving from Volkswagen to Mitsubishi). AND, I cannot, in good conscience recommend the vehicle (though I LOVE it otherwise). In fact, I passed along a "heads up" to some folks at a local car show who were strongly interested in the Outlander.
I plan to send letters and photos to all corporate Mitsubishi offices in the US and in Japan. Their "Corporate Philosophy" statement says: "We are committed to providing the utmost driving pleasure and safety for our valued customers and our community. On these commitments we will never compromise. This is the Mitsubishi Motors way." Let's see if that's indeed true.
Here's a photo from my photo album. Note that the plastic piece is now all "fuzzy" (i.e., not smooth) in the sand-blasted area.
The chipping is on the front of the rear wheel wells and occurs as a result of debris thrown from the front wheels correct? Do mudguards on the front wheels remedy the problem?
Wish I had known about this prior to my purchase. Consider yourself lucky.
However, at this point in time, the issue appears to be isolated to relatively few individuals.
Either way, regardless of what vehicle you end up buying, there is always the the possibility of having a car with a problem.
Just look at other threads in this or any other forum.
At this point, I have no way to judge if it's design + bad paint, or just bad design. I suspect it's mostly a design issue as the plastic piece that runs along the bottom of the SUV and the clear protective piece are as badly damaged as the unprotected paint. It seems as though debris is "fired back" to the flared out area by the front tires. That's what frozen slush patterns on the vehicle indicate. I really think that flaring out that part of the body exacerbates the issue.
If you are driving on clean roads, you'll probably be fine. But we have winter and the associated slop and grit and that's doing a number on my NEW vehicle.
Post a follow-up (re: dealer's reaction), if you can. Thanks.
I just feel that more owners would have stepped forward and that the issue would be more prevalent in other forums as well (like the Lancer's pulling to the left issue).
Paint is a problem, since any manufacturer can easily claim that it's how and where the owner drives. A real pain to prove.
I live in Phoenix, the weather here is hard on paint, we had a dark-green '95 Nissan 240 SX SE. The paint faded on the parts of the hood, trunk-lid, and on the roof within 2 years. Nissan said it was "normal". They repainted it while it was under warranty. That was it.
If people do repaint the lower area you should look into something durable like Dupont Imron base and/ or clear coat. (a polyurethane paint and do it once and forget it)
Here's one example link I found explaining:
http://www.mikeandjerrys.com/dImron.asp
EPA regulations have forced all car manufacturers to use paint that is not as strong as it once was. So part of it is the paint.
The mistake Mitsubishi USA made is they deleted the side door garnish that is found on Outlanders in Japan and Europe. I'm guessing they thought it was just a cosmetic trim piece. But it's not. It actually is the first line of defense for the paint, it deflects most debris away from the side of the car.
If you drive in harsh conditions and really want to protect the paint you should get the side door garnishes ($250) and some mud flaps. Mitsubishi offers a few different kinds, from the small black plastic ones to the large red ones.
My personal Outlander XLS has 12,000 miles on it and the paint looks great. But I drive in SoCal and have only made one trip to the snow this year, which is not nearly as tough on the vehicle as daily driving on salty roads with rocks and ice kicking up.
I'm not sure that explains it - there's more air quality regs but modern paint is pretty tough and the formulations offer some advantages over the old lacquer stuff. This particular Mitsu paint and/or process may be flawed but other manufacturers (with a few exceptions) don't have all that many owners complaining about "weak" paint.
If anything, with the clearcoat process that's been around since the 70's, paint may be better than its ever been, and changing over to water thinned urethanes doesn't seem to have made paints worse. Here's a repair thread about paint brands that may be of interest:
Mr_Shiftright, "Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair" #803, 16 Jun 2007 7:48 am
Just going by the photos, I think you're right that the missing garnish accounts for the debris damage.