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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hi, I am having trouble with injector bleed down. Is it just the injector or could it be in the computer. It has 90,000 miles on it.
  • AKiaAKia Posts: 4
    here we go. sounds like many sportage owners are experiencing similar problems to mine...but just a little different. my wife's sportage decided one morning to give her some grief when she tried to start it. all lights, radio, etc. worked and it would turn over but it took a lot of convincing and a little stab of the gas pedal to get started. immediately after releasing the gas pedal it would sputter and die. in order to keep it running she had to keep on the gas. ever since it has given us the same problem. sometimes we are lucky enough that it keeps running but at VERY low rpms, and if you drive it anywhere it will most likely stall out at any stop. it shakes but I think that's just because it is barely staying running. so, we haven't driven it very far at all. taken it to two mechanics. the first cleaned the IAC with carb cleaner and we got about two days out of it and now it does the same thing. the carb cleaner doesn't seem to help as much now. the second changed spark plugs and made sure all cables, coils, compression, etc. were all fine, and they were. they suggested that the timing belt be replaced, but it was replaced at about 50k (we have 75k now) and I refused. with somebody stepping on the gas, I looked down the oil fill and saw everything working like clockwork. didn't check timing but they did, and here's the hitch. after doing a little forum reading, I threw a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in, and wedged the gas pedal so it would stay running. about 15-20 min later (if that), the rpms jumped for a split second then settled back down and the car idled beautifully and ran great the rest of the day. the next day...same thing. I sat in the car and pushed the gas enough to keep it running, and in less than 15 minutes it was like a new car again. i replaced both the main engine and fuel pump relays and it's the same. I am thinking ECM or EGR valve. can anyone help?
  • las5las5 Posts: 2
    now that car sales are way down the car makers like kia sporteage do not need bad press if we all work together and start a campain and write to kia do letter writing to our newspapers let them know that these cars can be a death trap that the auto makers dont care or stand behind there cars I think if we were to set a day all together take our kia sportage to the kia dealers park them with a sigh that says if i want to save a life i leave my kia home this will get press it will hit all the local and national news write to your leaders in your capital put a sign in your yard that says i will pay you to take my car away if you have the guts to buy it send this to your newpaper with a picture and send it to your local kia dealer we need to do this as a team so lets start gettint together and brain storm we can do this we need to do this god bell america .
  • My 2000 did exactly this! I ended up having to replace the fuel pump, filter and fuel line. Come to find out, the gas I pumped from the gas station had a lot of crud, dirt and sand which clogged the fuel lines. This caused a very rough idle, stalling and would not allow me to drive over 30-40 miles an hour without causing problems. It now rund perfectly and smooth but kinda costly to replace the fuel pump, filter and fuel line.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ..." they suggested that the timing belt be replaced, but it was replaced at about 50k (we have 75k now) and I refused. . didn't check timing but they did,"
    ..well, the only (well, major) factor impacting the timing is... the timing belt.....so, either they did check "both", or they didn't.. SO for me, this issue is not clear.
    The other factor is the knock snesor but its impact is minor although noticeable, and it would throw a code.
    In fact....you did not mention if you had a code or not....
    Sporty engines have a lot of idiosyncrasies....very hard to pinpoint the exact cause for several errances....but at least, you must start with a sound base...and I consider the Tbelt as a definite suspect to be cleared safe and sure, and then you can continue without any doubt lingering behind. I suggest you pay a visit ; ajustment of the tensioner is critical and it is possible the belt can jump a cog or two.
    image
    image
  • AKiaAKia Posts: 4
    lmp4. I apologize for my lack of understanding on the timing issue, as you can tell my experience is very limited. I guess my overall question in response, though, is that if the timing belt needs to be replaced would it be normal for the car to run so perfectly after a long warming period? it will run at any speed, restart fine, and is very responsive, like a new car. if it sits overnight I am back at square one. thanks for getting back to me. I will report back with codes.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    "the car ..runs ..perfectly after a long warming period.. .. if it sits overnight I am back at square one"
    OK..this contradicts the Tbelt issue, indeed. Was a fuel pressure test conducted?
  • I had same problem . $2 of vacuum hose fixed mine , wheel well to hub on both sides. reuse grommet to attach hose to bracket . cheap to try anyway .
  • I have a 1999 kia sportage 4WD with the exact same problem and circumstances. It won't start cold unless I hook up a battery charger, and crank it for 8 minutes with the gas pedal nailed to the floor. After sputtering, it begins to run...then runs perfect. It will start again for the rest of the day, and run well. The next day....same problem!!
    I replaced the timing belt, and water pump. I installed a new radiator. I replaced the spark plugs. I replaced the the coolant temperature sensor. I am getting a code that my oxygen sensor is bad.
    Did you check your fuel pressure, as you were asked? Have you solved your problem? I have spent a good deal of cash replacing the wrong parts, and still can not cold start this car!!! -Thomas-
  • AKiaAKia Posts: 4
    the first mechanic I took it to wrote down codes "CTS" and "AIC." I don't know if these make any sense at all. haven't bought a code reader or had the guts to take it to a shop again. a fuel pressure test was conducted by the second mechanic and everything checked out fine. but since the car does really well for me after warming up for about 15 to 20 minutes, I wonder if they were dealing with a seemingly perfect car after it had sat in a warm/dry garage for a while. here is the latest development. I live in southeast alaska, where the winters go something like this...we get a lot of rain on snow, snow, then more snow, then rain on snow, then sleet, then rain, then snow snow snow. as you can imagine it is a pretty messy time of year. over the last few days we've had a cold snap out of the ordinary with no precip. for us, something amazing happens when the weather is like this...things dry up with the extreme cold. the last few days have probably been the driest we'll have all winter. anyway, our first cold snap day the car was miraculously cured and has been ever since. NO start up problem every day for the last 4 days. I spent the weekend checking everything electrical connection and wire I could reach. everything on this car looks brand new. then I thought, shouldn't an electrical problem be WORSE in the cold? maybe unless it is due to moisture? she drove it to work this morning and it is fine. supposed to warm a little and dump more precip, we'll see what happens.
  • CTS is the Coolant Temperature Sensor. I bought one, and installed it. It cost $21.00, and was easily installed,(located in the front of the engine on the thermostat housing). Only neede to loosen 2 bolts holding down the plastic air duct on top of the radiator. The car starts cold now, with only minimal effort...still not as good as warm.
    I don't know the other "AIC" code, but a Parts person at a local Auto Parts store should know what it is. Thank you for responding.
    -Thomas-
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ..makes sense...a shorted coolant temp sensor (either internal short or externally caused by moisture) looks like a high temperature condition...so the computer thinks the engine is already hot..and keeps a lean mixture, hence very hard starting and low idle....until the engine is actually warm and matches the computer thinkink.
    .....and that would probably translate into a poor O2 reading, probably lean.
    ...AIC...may be mispelled for IAC.....Idle AIr CONtrol valve.....would make sense too....frequently the culprit with difficult starting.... I think you said you had it cleaned....but check electrical contacts to that part...and may be its real condition..
  • AKiaAKia Posts: 4
    well when it rains (or snows) it pours. now the 4 wheel drive on my toyota is out so I haven't ahda chance to look at the kia. anyway, thanks for the reply and I'll see if this helps. the code must have been IAC like your said, because the mechanic wrote "air idle control." I spoke to the mechanic that I took my truck to, which is now our 3rd try at a mechanic inthis town, said the IAC was a likely culprit too, and that's what the code must be. the car is still running fine for now. I'll get in there and look at the wiring to the CTS (and IAC again). maybe change the CTS since it's cheap and sounds easy. or should I wait to change the CTS until the car acts up again? hard to troubleshoot when the car's running fine.
  • Great site thanks for the link
  • Tim, Did you get this resolved? What worked? I have the exact same problem. 2002 Kia Sportage rear driver's side electric window will go down with either driver's or pasenger's switch. However, it will not go up.
    Thanks,
    Gary
  • my 2000 kia was running a little rough spitting and sputtering while taking off. the shop said replace coils wires and plugs, i did that put it all back together and know it runs 50x worse than it ever has. i then put all the old stuff back on and still runs worse then i did every combination of old and new parts still nothing. it is also getting the exhaust from the manifold to the converter red hot. so i took the converter off and put a temp. flex pipe in its place but it all still gets red hot. i am lost, all i did was a basic tune up and know i cant even drive it. any help?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Red hot exhaust is a sign of lean mixture...in which case you should have the check engine light ON..... is it ? The cause of this ..and possibly of the trouble you wanted to solve , can be a false reading from O2 sensor...there are 2, one just at manifold , the other after the first cat....
  • it turned out that i had two plug wires crossed. 3 hours of guess work and a good nights sleep i finally figured it out. thanks
  • Do all Sportage manufactured for US meet or exceed California Emission standards?
    I am planning to buy a New-08 Sportage FWD 2.0L I4 Auto in Michigan later moving to California in a month. I find good deal here in Michigan.
  • My 2000 Sportage is making a loud whirring noise when I push on the accelerator it sounds like it is sucking air. I checked the vacuum lines and didn't see any off. It makes the noise in gear and also in neutral. Any ideas?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Where do you live?
    My first idea is about the fan: it is driven through a clutch; it makes a lot of noise as described when it is engaged; normally the clutch would engage only when temp is very hot, usually after idling hot in warm temperatures, and sometimes for a very limited time on a very cold start. Open the hood and check for that first; the clutch might also be blocked: try to rotate the fan by hand (...when engine is stopped, of course.... :) ) ..it should rotate almost freely.
  • Thankyou for the tip but it is not the fan. I did not describe the sound correctly. it sounds like air being sucked in (in a big way). Kind of like a vacuum hose is off but louder. The more you push on the accelerator the louder the air sound. When I shift gears the sound gets softer when I push the clutch in but then gets louder once I am in gear. It is really hard to explain. It started about a month ago but it would only make the sound when I was in 4 wheel drive. Then a week ago it happens in 2 wheel drive as well. Help..................
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ....well I suppose you have already checked for all hoses and tubing related to vacuum or air flow; sometimes the relation between events and apparent interactions is misleading....: timing belt idler/tensioner pulleys have been involved in various noise patterns in the past.....as well as clutch bearings...
    I'd like the practice of posting "sounds" to be implemented more often as most digital cameras have a sound pickup feature; it generates a sound file that one can easily post...just as this one: starting my SPorty
  • Hi
    Here is what happened: Last week I drove my vehicle about 50 miles or so, when I parked my car I found a leak in the upper radiator hose. It was spraying out forcefully and steaming from under the hood.
    I placed a new hose and there was no problem until yesterday. I made another 50 mile trip and this time my vehicle showed overheating. When I parked it water was spilling out again. It was nightime and was unable to see where it was coming from. I thought maybe my hose hadnt been clamped tight enough so I tightened it. The next day I put more antifreeze in it and drove around the block a couple times. It stated showing signs of overheating again and I parked it and saw more fluid coming out.
    When I turn on the heater the temperture drops pretty quickly. I thought maybe the water pump so I checked by attempting to move the fan with my hand or see if it made any sounds. The fan is secure and moves with the force of my hand but no more. So it seems there is pressure in the water pump.
    Could it be just the thermostat?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Could it be just the thermostat?

    That was my first thought. You can examine it for obvious flaws or replace it cheaply and, with a little luck, fix the problem without looking for the more expensive possibilities.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • An employee at Advanced Auto said there was no way it could be the thermostat. He said it would cause your vehicle to overheat or spill fluid. Is this accurate? I had pretty good advice from a couple friends it is probably the thermostat but now im not sure
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ..the water pump is not tied to the fan: the fan is there just by itself, and this is why it can be removed totally and replaced with an electric fan. The water pump is hidden behind the Timing -belt housing and is driven by the T-belt.

    Possibilities:
    Thermostat: yes: impairs circulation through main radiator, but not through heater core.
    Water pump: improbable, since water is obviously circulating through the heater core as you have proven; it could not without the pump working.
    Fan clutch: improbably as you have resistance when turning by hand...anyway, check that is rotates forcefully as the engine gets hotter; there have been cases of fan clutches being shot...but I do not know the temperature where you live; it has an impact on diagnosis.
    Last: blown head gasket....but usually it impairs pump operation (exhaust/air enters the cooling circuit) and you would have very poor heating from the heater....but "when you turn the heater, the temperature drops pretty quickly"...which temperature? That of the engine of that of the air coming out of the heater...?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    He said it would cause your vehicle to overheat or spill fluid.

    I thought that is what you said it did in your original posting? ("It was spraying out forcefully and steaming from under the hood.") In any case, the thermostat should be an easy thing to check out.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • The temperature of the engine dropped from almost completely hot to halfway where it usually stays. I think what is happening is the water pressure talks a little bit to build up and when it finally does the thermostat doesnt open and the water/fluid is forced back out the resevoir.
    The fan is in good shape, it runs fine and turns noramally as always.
    I think the crack i orgionally had in my upper radiator hose may have been caused by the thermostat not opening and forcing the older hose to crack causing my initial break.
    Does that help, with your assessment?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    "The temperature of the engine dropped from almost completely hot to halfway where it usually stays"
    ... I do not like the above quote.... but before gearing for the worst, try simple things first...change the thermostat to make things clear....in fact, you can run a test by simply removing the thermostat and run without it ..but if all trouble proove cleared out at that time, you'll have to go again and install a new one, so you might choose to install a new one right away. Report findings. By the way, even with the radiator cap opened ( then no pressure build up), the water would circulate, temperature would rise and thermostat would open on temperature, not pressure.
  • Im thinking thats why the thermostat is broken. Even with the proper temperature its not opening which is why the water is forced out the resevoir. Heat is supposed to open it, but its not even when the temperature is up, I drive it and the fluid comes out causing my engine to overheat. If I turn the heater on the temp drops to normal, it didnt overheat until the fluid spilled out.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    "...the fluid comes out causing my engine to overheat....it didnt overheat until the fluid spilled out "
    should read
    "...my engine overheats causing the fluid to come out ....the fluid didnt spill out until it overheats "
    ...cause and effect :)

    Now lets see what happens with a new thermostat...but before that, notice you can test your thermostat on your electric range in boiling water using a candy thermometer...thermostat should open around 195...if it does...then there is another cause...
  • sorry for the typo there. I didnt mean to confuse anyone.
    So I put on a new thermostat.(had some trouble with the housing due to steel screws in aluminum holes) but once everything was sorted out and new thermostat was in I have been driving and on three seperate occasions nothing has happened.
    I pray that was it. It was about 9 years old and gone through a couple flush kits with heavy rust, so I think it was time for it to go. But thanks for the help. :D
  • I was driving home from work and it felt like I hit a big pothole or had a flat. I continued to drive home with no problem. The next morning after driving the car for 1/2 a mile, the wheel jerked and pulled with a metallic noise. I drove the car back home with no problem. We replaced the brake pads and rotors on both front wheels. Also found a burr on right caliper and replaced that. I took the car for a test drive wuth no problem until I was almost home. I was not braking at the time but the front right wheel became bound up and I could not drive over 20mph. I have asked several people what it is. They either say a pinched brake line or a bad wheel bearing. Anyone have any ideas?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ,,front bearings are indeed a common cause for concern. raise front of car, check for wheel side play; either the bearings are tight, or thay have some play. Remove vacuum hubs then check spindle nut: you most remove 2 screws for the lock cover, then use some sort of fork tool to turn the spindle nut and check for adjustment.
    image
    Spindle nut must be torqued just enough to eliminate play, that is,almost just past finger tight; more than than and the bearing will seize.

    Generally, bearing failure will be accompanied by seal damage and loss of vacuum so the hubs would not operate any more...that is, if you still have the original vacuum hubs.
  • did you ever find out what was from my sportage has done that very thing email me [email protected]
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    What is the question/problem, exactly ?
  • This winter I have had a problem with a major gas smell when I first start the sportage. I thought is might be the heat sensor making the car run too rich, but I am not sure. When I start the car on cold mornings I will always get the gas smell, but I don't seem to have the problem if it is not cold. The gas smell is bad - even with it cold outside the window has to be opened some to air out. Any suggestions? On two different occasions, the check engine came on and then eventually went back off.
    Thanks Damon Waggoner
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    a common problem addressed here
  • Just purchased a new V6 LX Sportage. Planning for a 2500 mile trip this weekend. Got few questions.

    1.what is the engine break-in period and the maximum speed limit I should maintain during the break-in?
    2.What grade gas should I put?
    3.Will Mobile-1 10w-25 Fully Synthetic is good as engine oil?
    4.Should I change the Air filter to K & N for better performance?
    5.What tire pressure is good?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,457
    Congrats on the new Sportage!

    1. Whatever the manual says for the break-in period. Don't put it on cruise, but vary the speed.

    2. Whatever the label on your gas tank flap says.

    3. I'd use what the owner's manual says. It probably doesn't say not to use synthetic, but I think it's overkill for the average car. But it's on sale right now at Advance Auto if you gotta have it (if you don't have Advance Auto in your area try Checkers or Kragen). And AutoZone has Quaker State full synthetic on sale right now too.

    4. I like OEM paper filters myself. I think they do a better job than the aftermarket ones and I don't believe the hype.

    5. Try using the psi recommended on the tire label that should be on your driver's side door pillar. For a little bit better mpg (or if you are hauling a load on your long trip), you could try bumping up the cold psi recommendation up a couple of pounds. If you find the ride a bit harsh, then you could dial it back to the recommended number.
  • jmanselljmansell Posts: 5
    We just bought a used 2000 Kia Sportage with 150000 miles and it ran fine for about a month. Now when we go up hills it has no power and we have to downshift to get up even a medium sized hill. Just had the timing belt replaced changed thre spark plugs and boots and the valve cover gasket. And now its worse max speed of 55 mph on flat roads, going downhill when we try to accelerate to get up the next one the engine revs but get no extra speed or power...... Any ideas????
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    There has been a recent case of broken locking key of the crankshaft timing sprocket. Was that verified when the T_belt was changed?

    CHeck THIS THREAD out. It appears this is a common issue with Mazda engines (which Sporty is).

    image
  • jmanselljmansell Posts: 5
    No we didn't check that but thanks for the heads up. We are going to tear into it again this weekend so I will definatly check that.
  • jmanselljmansell Posts: 5
    tore into it again and checked the crankshaft and everything was fine. Now we are just chasing sensors trying to find one thats bad but no luck yet. Pulled the EGR Valve and cleaned it didn't change anything, checked the throdle position sensor and its ok. I guess next would be the Crank position sensor maybe? Any other ideas are welcome Thanks in advance.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    THe crank position sensor is a go-nogo item. If it runs, this sensor is correct.
    There have been several cases of blocked catalytic converters....I,d disconnect the exhaust for a free exhaust test....
  • andy91andy91 Posts: 6
    Hello, I hope someone can direct me in the right way. My wife 2001 Kia sportage engine light came on over 2 months ago and I had the code checked at a local part store. It showed a bad catalytic converter, Since I do not live where emission are required I did not see the reason for a 199.00 catalytic. Well now the car shuts down when driving. The engine light flashes and rpm guage goes to zero rpm and runs off one cyclender. Once you let it sit for 5-10 min it will crank back up and run like normal for a day or two. I had the codes checked again, Bad converter and Misfire on cyc 2,3,4.. This car meets the requirments of CA emissions, So I was told that the computer was shutting down the engine because of a bad converter. So replaced the converter and had the codes cleared.. Ran good for a day and it done the same thing again.. The new converter was rattling after the misfire. took the new converter off and the insides came falling out. Have new converter on order. Should I be looking for something else? before installing the new converter.. Maybe a senor?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    What you describe is typical of failed crank position sensor, located on clutch/torque converter bellhousing, driver side. A common issue with SPorty.. This is typical of all cars, by the way. Crank sensor is heat sensitive and in most cases starts running haywire when hot, then progressively fails completely.
  • andy91andy91 Posts: 6
    Thank you, I will get one and see what happens.. Will let you know..
  • andy91andy91 Posts: 6
    I have done the free exhaust test and still misfires and then clears up and back to misfiring again. I replaced the crankshaft pos senor last night, Along with a new catalytic convertor.. It was misfiring when I first started the engine after replacing these two parts and then cleared up after a few seconds. Thought that it was fixed... Drove the car this morning 42 miles with no problem. Went to drive it to lunch and once the engine started it was misfiring. Drove it 1 mile and then it cleared up and ran great.. same codes of misfiring on 2,3,4.. What else could I check?
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