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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair



  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i have another quick question there are not really bubbles coming out but it looks like there is something coming to the top. And i actually only have alittel coolant in the reserve tank. Would a blown head gasket cause the ater not to circulate threw the engine? I am just getting really frustrated with this car as i have never had so many problems with a car. It seems as it is one thing after another.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    No bubbles is a good sign...and while a few isolate cases were reported, this engine type really does not have a bad history of blown gasket .

    I understand you have changed the thermostat....
    ANd yes, exhaust invasion will impair coolant circulation but I'm still not committed to that explanation without further signs. WHen you use the heater DO you have a steady heat flow coming from the heater or are there times at which no heat comes??
    Apart from hte needle that goes up, are there other signs of overheating? Steaming?

    One test I used to test gasket leak is applying compressed air to spark plug hole, after rotating the engine so the valves to that cylinder are closed. COMpressed air will try to push piston so it must be really at the top . IF there is a leak on one cylinder, the air will go to cooling circuit and bubbleup at the radiator cap.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Hi yes i actually have steady heat i have never noticed a time when it gets cold at all. And it has never steamed or overheated just the guage goes up. But there is no circulation of the fluids. that is what confuses me.

    Now by compressed air do you mean canned air or the air i would use to blo up a tirer on the car?
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i also had another question about the lights in my car i noticed tonight that half of my dash lights (the side where the fuel gauge and temp guage are) and the radio buttons will go off and come back on once in a blue moon. Would this be caused by a bad ground? and if so do you have a wiring diagram for the vehicle? cause i would really like to get that fixed as well.. i also encountered the check engine light today while driving when i got the code checked it wwas 90442 something about the fuel cap i made sure it was all the way on and the light is still on any suggestions there?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Your problem with dash lights might be linked with the high temp indicator. IN fact try one thing: run the car, then run the heater blower at different speeds. Does the temp needle change position instantaneously when you switch the blower on? THis problem was reported several times and seems to be linked with ground problems. SO several have run new ground wires from the battery negative to engine block, firewall, and any visible ground wire. HOwever no one had the clever idea to come back and declare unambiguously if that solved their problem partly or completely or what else they might have done.
    FOr diagrams, I can post some but better register yourself to and grab everything you want first hand, diagrams, repair manuals, codes....
    ANd I talked of compressed air as you use for tires but the more you say, the less I think you might have a gasket problem....and since you say heater works well, I have no doubts you do have water circulation which is rather difficult to observe from the radiator cap.
    HOw does the fan behave, specially just after engine is started: normally it runs with a whooshing noise for a few seconds then slowly clutches down...
    It might turn out all you have is a false temperature indication....and I wish this is the case....I'd try to use your kitchen candy thermometer in the radiator to have a 2nd temperature opinion....
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Haha so i decided to just drive the car with the heat off until the temp guage went to the top (i also filled up the reseviour) and when i pulled in the drive way it was spewing out the over fill hose and what sounded like it was boiling.. I also added one wire from the negative battery terminal to the frame. and i noticed that both the pos and neg connectors where cracked. I also think whoever put the new battery in put in the wrong size as it was actually pretty tough getting the cables off of it.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Well that sounds more severe cannot fake boiling...ha!
    I'd find an air compressor and test as I said. It is just so annoying the plugs are out of easy reach...but it is not such a tedious job anyway. You will have to remove the valve cover.


    THose complaining of fan clutch failure were mostly living in very warm environment and used A/C ; in cool temperatures, highway speed is sufficient even without a fan...
    Was the water pump changed at same time as timing belt (I think you said the belt had been changed...right). BUt Water pumps fail for bearings generally and that makes noise and leaks, not boiling.....
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Yeah actually the only thing i have replaced was the thermostat. And i took another listen once i sent last post and there was a hissing noise and the water was just rushing back into the overfill tank.. Could the water pump be causing this problem possibly?
    And do i have to take all that off just to give it a tune up?? :surprise:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I was questioning the pump , just trying to find a thread where I remember someone said the blades from the water pump had all broken out..but I don't thnk that was in a KIA forum...probably a GM 3.1 or I'd rather dowplay this option.
    WHen you say "take all that off to give it a tune"...I suppose y0u mean the valve cover...hey?...well just to change the spark plugs, no. You would need to remove the intake tube and the plastic cover...and then you have the coils and the holes to the spark plugs..the plugs are hidden under down there and you grab them with a plug socket and an extension to your ratchet... image
    ..and possibly, you could apply air to the plug holes .. it is a long reach....but possible...but you would have some problem seeing which piston is at top dead center without seeing the cam position....
    THe first time I had to do the spark plugs, I thought it was hell to have to do all of that just to reach the plug...and I still think the same...but in fact, a plug change can be done in just a little more than an hour...and with 8 or 9 extra 10mm bolts, the valve cover is out..and then back in. ANnoying, but easy and straight forward.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ...but you did not tell me about the are sure it has a belt driving it? My son had a similar problem with his NIVA..overheating and alternator failure........just to discover the fan belt was simply gone.....and with all those things around there, it needed to peek intentionally to notice something was missing....
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    do you just mean the white fan behind the radiator? if so it starts when i turn the car on. so that would mean it would continue to run once the car was on correct?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ..yes, the fan between radiator and engine. Is it electrical or belt driven? factory is belt, but some owners replaced it with an electric fan. ANyway Ohio is not that warm at this time of the year, I suppose...
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    It is belt driven. now i guess i have another question, is there anything else i would notice if the head gasket was blown. and i also noticed that when i tirned the blower motor on the guage did move up a little bit with thuring it on then dropped down a little once i shut it off.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    i noticed that when i turned the blower motor on the guage did move up a little bit with thuring it on then dropped down a little once i shut it off
    That is almost "normal" as the return grounds for dash and blower are common and slight variation is expected. WHen the ground connection goes awry, the variation worsens.

    is there anything else i would notice if the head gasket was blown.

    in SOME cases, coolant spills in a cylinder when the car is stopped and is ejected in the exhaust manifold at start-up and this produces a short duration heavy white cloud at startup ....THis is somewhat confusing in cold weather because it is difficult to make the difference with what we already experience. HOwever when it shows in warm weather, the difference is more conspicuous. But absence of such cloud is not a sign that the problem does not exist.

    If the coolant spill invades the oil pan, the inside of oil cap will be covered with a disgusting white-brownish foamy sludge. But many times , specially when the leak is not severe, it happens only when the engine runs and exhaust goes from the cylinder to the cooling system.. However, when a car is run only for short treks in very cold temperatures, stray water vapour as a combustion product is not readily evaporated by high heat and accumulates and can generate some foamy goo...and that would stop showing in the summer.

    draining the oil pan might show traces of coolant

    The car will require topping the coolant tank almost daily

    Irregular heat flow from heater and erratic temp needle are telltale signs....

    -"intestinal" noises (borborygmi) in the heater system

    GOing for a head gasket replacement is something one wants not to think of and this is why when I suspect such, I want a sure proof and the compressed air test is really a go-nogo clue. IF compressed air into a cylinder generates bubbles at the radiator cap, you have no choice. ...just starting the engine with the fuel pump relay disconnected might be able to pump air through a leak and bring bubbles at radiator because of the compression cycle in cylinders...but I do not like the noise and strain on starter and battery and the result is less I prefer to use externally compressed air. My late Dodge Omni was a regular user of that test....but the spark plugs were an easy reach...

    Several would prefer to try everything else and many go to large expenses to avoid this operation and a few in the forums changed radiators, water pump, thermostat of course, installed a larger electric fan.....sometimes this procures some extra cooling margin but if the head gasket was failed, all of this ended up as waisted expenses added to the replacement I would go no farther than low cost "tests" like checking the radiator hoses for internal peeling ...rare but just to be sure .. even try a radiator flushing agent... and as I said, running the car WITHOUT a thermostat because a totally free flow might make coolant circulation to radiator easier to be seen.

    My first choice would be the unambiguous compressed air testing: if it proves will have some of the work already done. Somewhere I had written a "procedure" for spark plugs replacement...will look for....
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    in previous post I wrote:
    If the coolant spill invades the oil pan, the inside of oil cap
    I'm talking of the oil filler cap....
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i went and looked at the oil cap and there was a little bit of a milky whit substance there so i wiped it clean and i will look again after i drive the car to see of more appears.
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    We did the test it is not the fuel pump, running out of ideas. Does any one have suggestions
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    sue 45 said:
    We did the test it is not the fuel pump, running out of ideas. Does any one have suggestions

    OK then for fuel supply. What about the other tests I suggested in my first reply:
    WHen voltage runs low (for alternator problem) engine starts being erratic : injectors do not fire, spark is poor, ..and battery runs down. Use a voltmeter and test battery voltage with engine running (14.2-14.7)
    There have been cases of blocked catalyser...disconnect exhaust and run a test with a lot of noise..(That's fun)...

    ALso, I cannot dismiss the possibility of the timing belt having jumped a cog or 2, so I'd certainly verify that. You said it had been changed...when?
    Is the Check ENgine Light ON? And if so, retreive codes and post them.

    YOU said it lacks power...can you describe that with more details? DOes the engine start well?
    IS it a manual or automatic? If an auto, do you start from standstill with the HOLD light ON? (this starts in 2nd gear., quite mushy.).
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok sorry for the delay in letting you know what i found out. I have yet to get a meter to test the amps. However, I ended up taking the car in and and apparently my clutch was gone in the fan i thought because it was moving it waws ok. But i am guessing it wasn't. But then i still had the over-heating problem so they kept the car for a few days then they finally had to have someone from kian come look at it. And they said that it was overheating due to the system needing burped. This was somethign i had never heard of but i guess once you change the thermostat you need to do this. And since the "burp" it has not over-heated. thansk for all your help. I hope i do not have to come back and bother you with anymore problems.
  • i got a diagnostic test done that read . p1123 tra air lcfk age can anyone tell me what the fault is please
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    We just changed the timing belt a couple of weeks ago at the same time we replaced everything else I mentioned. It did fix the problem of it having no power to go over 50 or 60 km per hour. It starts fine and idles fine, the issue is when you put it in gear it is really sluggish like it has no power until you get up to over 60km per hour. It is an automatic
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok so now i have anotgher problem :confuse: I drove to cleveland today which is aboutu 3 hours away and at about 90 miles into the trip the temp guage started to go up. So i turned on the heat it dropped back below half. then when i got off at my exit the guage shot all the way down below cold then started dancing around as i would accelerate and when i would come to a stop it would just drop again.. any ideas
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    the trip the temp guage started to go up.
    turned on the heat it dropped back below half.
    then ..the guage shot all the way down below cold then started dancing around
    when i would come to a stop it would just drop again.. any ideas

    That was one of symptoms I already described as associated with exhaust invasion of cooling system due to a blown head gasket. THis is what "burps" the system.
    I told you many ways to check specifically for this...I think this relieves you from more testing. Most obviously, you have a blown head gasket.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    P1123 Long Term Fuel Trim Adaptive Air System Low - Read Our
    Article On Oxygen Sensor Codes For Help With This Kia Check Engine Light Code

    PLease indicate year model.
    THis indicates computer tries to correct for mixture past its available range. THere is a problem with the fuel delivery system. DO you have other symptoms?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    "it is really sluggish like it has no power until you get up to over 60km per hour. It is an automatic "
    Did you have this car for a long time? DO you compare the performance to this same car as you knew it before, or to other cars you are used to drive? Objectively, this engine has no torque at low rpm what you say is not very different from its "normal" behaviour....that is why I want to know your base for comparison....

    I had asked you to confirm you do not start with the HOLD light on...
  • Our radiator had been leaking a little bit and We just found out yesterday from the dealership that it is a blown gasket and they want $1000 to $2000 for fixing it!! Can we use one of those stop leak products instead? My husband found some thing called Steel Seal on the internet which is supposed to be garanteed but it almost seems too good to be true.
  • Hello:

    I think the catalytic converter in the front needs to be replaced. A mechanic in my church will do the work for free, only $200 for the part. Does anyone know, the repair shop told me theres a front catalytic converter and a rear one? Is that true? Six months ago the check engine light on and the codes showed a leak in the EVAP system. Thanks.
  • I've replaced the spark plugs, the wires, the coil packs, and we've sealed the top half of the engine again (oil was hitting the back spark plug) and I'm still having issues.

    I don't know what the name of it is, but there's a wire in the back of the engine, a little left of the center, that when moved simulated the shaking and stalling I was going through. When we moved it, the shaking stopped. We zip tied it, and replaced it. Car ran fine for two days, and now it's doing the same thing again. I'm absolutely furious about this. My job is very strict about coming in on time, and me being without a car is going to cause me to lose my job. I need some help with this, and a friend of mine works on cars all the time cannot figure this out at all.

    I'm stuck. Help if you can.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    re: radiator
    I do not believe in miracles...and I always wonder how these "stopleak" agents know what to plug, and what not. ILve never used them and would not, but I know some did...and checked their problem for a while, while others ended up with a clogged radiator or heater core that they had to change on top of the head gasket.....if the instant return on probability of success is worth it, calculate your odds..but in the end, the head gasket will have to be done. I understand proper (or improper) timing can be a factor.
    THIs car gasket change is not such a tedious job as access is not that bad and I think some trusted mechanic can do it for much less. $1500 is what it takes to do both heads on a GM 3.4 when half of the car has to be taken out or the engine subframe lowered down and same amount is out of proportion for a Sporty.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    re: I've replaced the spark plugs, the wires, the coil packs, and we've sealed the top half of the engine again
    Details on year , model, engine type , color of wire . ANy code available?
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