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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair



  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    The oil filter adapter (as well as filter) has been a culprit in the past. image THese are the only external oil passages...Check all bolts for tightness. Blown pressure switch have happened.
    As long as there is enough oil to build some pressure, the oil light will not pop ON.
    Reading the codes requires a scanner...
  • Hi. Hopefully someone may have a suggestion for me. My 2006 sportage has been having episodes where it will accelerate on its own, rev fast/high, and stall when the car is idling. Of course both times I have taken it to the shop the vehicle has not done this. Any suggestions? this is a real safety issue. Thank you
  • i need to know how to aline the counter balance shaft.not sure camshifts alinement either .
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    There is no counterbalance shaft
    Detailed timing belt change and timing
  • pootpoot Posts: 3
    Thanks 4 the reply Imp4 and here's some more info. I bought this Sportahe
    non-running. The T belt had apparently jumped causing it to get out of time so #4 piston hit the head, broke one valve off, which in turn beat the bottom of the head to pieces, busted the piston, but didn't hurt the cylinder yet the belt was NOT broken. The previous owner disassembled the motor, saw the problems, and threw the parts in the rear with the timing belt so I know it wasn't broken. I replaced the piston/head/belt/idler @ 109k and all was well. Roughly 3k after getting it running the hestitation started. Besides the things I've already checked/tried, I also went back over the valves but all are correct and while I can't recall the number, I also did a vacuum check and it was good/steady. It runs great down the road as long as your running steady. And though that was a good thought, it has never knocked once. Been a while since I've fooled with an OBD1 but like OBD2, if it detects a problem doesn't the check engine light come on? This one's light isn't on and the bulb is good. I know u retrieve the codes differently but in the sense of the light they function the same if memory serves. Right?
  • pootpoot Posts: 3
    No I haven't checked the cat for blockage but as for starting, it fires right up in both cold/hot weather no problem.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    OK i figured out what the problem was, it was the oil cooler. so i took it in to get it fixed and now i have another problem. After i have had my car shut off for awhile one of the relays under the hood starts to hum andn actually vibrates until i physically remove it from the car. What could be causing this? I mean i just got the car fixed. Any recomendations as the guy at the mechanics said it was possibly the computer but i just don't see how that could be as it was only setting there since it broke down....
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Can you identify which relay you are talking about? Will the car run without it?
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Hi, The one that vibrates And makes the noise is the ECI Main (the big one on the left). then once i pull igt out there is a slight noise coming from the box but does not last long. The shop had left my interior light on and drained my battery could that have anything to do with it? adn i have yet to try and start it without it. I will give that a try..K i tried to start it without it and it will not start.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Obviously the car cannot run without this relay
    THis relay is turned ON by the computer.
    THe ECU is fed all the time with 12v and a low voltage can have weird effects.Have the battery fully recharged before anything else.
  • here is my sob story. i own a 2oo2 kia sportage. it runs wonderful, to be honest one of the best vehicles i have ever owned. i purchased it from a dealer after 1 owner, with 6000 miles on it in 2004. now the drama. check engine light came on about the time for insp. sticker, took it to the dealer & said i needed to replace the fuel injectors. i laughed & left. anyways took it to an independent mechanic & poor me, he said almost the same thing. the computer read that both 02 sensors, the mass air flow sensor & all 4 injectors needed to be replaced. so like stubborn woman i did all that. still the light is on, still rejection sticker & still all reads from the computer. it has been reset over & over & over again. what do i do next? any info, help something please. i love my kia but not the money it seems to be amounting to.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188 it possible you have noted the actual code numbers? (rather than their interpretation) . Some codes show as the result of a problem rather than the cause or point to several or all possibilities.
    Obviously, you seem to have problem with fuel metering.....and a variety of possible factors has been thrown out. But other factors are not the idle air control valve that several owners have blamed on kind of similar occurences. Have you noticed other symptoms or annoyances that could reveal the real culprit ? Please list the actual parts that were replaced.
  • Okie dokie, actual parts replaced were the mass air flow sensor, 02 sensor, O.E type, and the other one not sure of its exact mane lost the receipt for that 1. Also plugs and wires were changed, fuel injectors were serviced & cleaned by a certified mechanic, and an oil change. I am not quite sure what you mean about actual code numbers so I will just type it to you as I am reading it. P0171 OEM Brand: Domestic-definition fuel trim bank 1 condition Explanation (in short) computer has recognized a rich and or lean condition one bank only. Probable causes 1. MAF Sensor 2. Oxygen sensor defective 3. Engine misfire-repair 4. Fuel Injector problem. P0171 OEM Brand: OBDII no explanation under that heading other than bank 1 and 2.
    As for problems my sportage has never backfired sputtered ran sluggish, lost any rpms, burned excessive oil, used ridiculous amounts of gas. I feel it runs just as well as the first day I had purchased the car. I hope this answers some of your questions, if not I will try again. Thx.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    OK P0171 is too lean detected....
    "In order to provide the best possible combination of drivability, fuel economy and emission control, the ECM uses a closed loop air/fuel metering system. The ECM monitors the HO2S signal voltage and adjusts fuel delivery based it in closed loop fuel control. Changes in fuel delivery will be indicated by the long-term and the short-term fuel trim values. The ideal fuel trim value is around 0%. The ECM will add fuel when the HO2S signal is indicating a lean condition. Additional fuel is indicated by fuel trim values that are above 0%. The ECM will reduce fuel when the HO2S signal is indicating a rich condition. Reduction in fuel is indicated by fuel trim values that are below 0%. The DTC relevant to fuel trim will be set when the amount reaches excessive levels because of a lean or rich condition.
    The ECM sets DTC P0171 If ECM detects exhaust emissions reach an excessively lean level due to a lean condition."

    NOw since all the "probable" (my version is "possible" ) causes have been dealed with, too lean means once computer has reached the limits, it is still too lean. My first "real" test would be for fuel pressure. I suspect fuel pressure might be low, either pump failure, clogged fuel filter, or failed pressure regulator. Have a pressure test at fuel rail to make or bust this option before searching for anything else; should be 42-45 psi
    My second question is about O2 sensors: there are 2: one before the catalytic, one after. it seems the two were replaced, right, otherwise I'd verify that.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i had the battery checked and it was good. where do i go from here do i replace the relay?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Negative. If as you say the relay "buzzes" when the key is off, something must be wrong elsewhere. IN any case, just to be sure, just swap the fuel pump relay and the EGI relay one for the other and see if the same occurs.
    By hte way this is not the first time this oddity occurs...but the issue was not solved or the solution not reported...
    Anyway, if this "buzz" continues, I'd make sure there are no debris or sand or salt or moisture that have invaded the bottom of this fuse/relay box.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok funny thing the buzzing has just came to a halt. Why i do not know. but if it starts up again i will try switching the two relays around. If that fixes the problem what should i do then?
  • My check engine light just started blinking at me. This happened after filling the fuel tank. Truck is also running very rough since. 2001 Sportage.

  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    SImple things first: check if fuel filler cap is tight.
    If it does not cure the problem, check hoses on top of fuel tank by opening the cover (4 screws) under right rear seat.
    In any case, reading the codes would help. Autozone does it for free, I'm told.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Ort102 wrote: "Ok funny thing the buzzing has just came to a halt. Why i do not know. "
    My interpretation: some moisture had found a way somewhere and has finally dried off. might come again.
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    Car was running very rough, changed plugs and coils now will only turn over, will not start. I know the negative battery cable needs to be replaced, but it will try to start.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Car was running very rough, changed plugs and coils now will only turn over, will not start.

    Were any codes read before changing all of that? Working blind is costly. Better test than guess. If nothing else was modified (all that was disconneceted was reconnected, coils, IAC valve, hoses...) ...then is there any doubt about quality of parts installed..were coils new or salvage?...
    Please provide any other relevant info that would procure a clue...
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    these codes where erad

    recently changed valve cover gasket and we bought the knock sensor but have not put it on because I cannot find it on the car, the coild where new.
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    Is there a sensor that will causes the coils to fire that may be malfunctioning.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Generic codes
    P0130 O2 sensor Short in Front O2 sensor wiring between C211-11 and C211-12.
    Misplaced, bent, loose or corroded connector terminals.
    Faulty Front O2 sensor.

    P0300 303 various misfire/misfire plug 3 : this plug is fed by a wire from the front coil. Were the wires to 1 and 3 changed too with the coils? This little piece of wire is able to cause problems. 't was a problem with mine last summer.

    P0171 lean (caused by lots of possible factors..possibly by the faulty O2 sensor)
    P0326 knock Open or short to GND between Knock Sensor and ECM terminal #70.
    Source of high resistance between Knock Sensor and ECM terminal #70.
    Faulty Knock Sensor.

    Proprietary codes
    P1624 signal request
    P1115 loss of coolant temperature signal Short to GND or B+ between ECM and TCM on ECT line.
    Open between ECM and TCM on ECT line.

    P1505 idle control Open or high resistance between Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) and ECM.
    Short to B+ or GND between IAC and ECM.
    Faulty IAC.

    Were these the codes BEFORE changes were made? or is this a recent code check (after initial codes were cleared) ?

    There seems to be loss of contact with a lot of sensors and actuators.. This car is known for fualty plugs, corrosion, to the point that even KIA advises to solder wires directly to sensors..but I do not like that; I'd check and clean and test all connections to sensors mentioned; MAF, IAC valve should be checked for continuity. IAC is not prone to failure, but can be dirty too.
    Was this car used off road and run across rivers or mud ponds? (there are nice (??) videos of this on the web) ..or used in areas where salt is used in winter ?
    Ahh..and knock sensor is here image but does not cause starting problems. Priority is lead to plug 3 and proper IAC valve operation, and connecetor to MAF.

    If you go back to spark plugs, pull #1 wire and insert a spare spark plug and start to see if you have spark....otherwire you'll never know.
    Yes, failed Crank Position Sensor will impair spark...but usually it gives advance starts easily, then stops once engine warm...will restart once cold...
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    these where read after Hold light started flashing, before plugs, wires, and coils where changed but after gasket was changed. We found out gasket needed changing when we went to change plugs and found one with oil, so gasket and plugs where changed then, had the codes read and the guy suggested resetting computer by unhooking battery, we did that and the car ran perfectly, no issues or lights or anything for about 2 days, then lights came CEL and Hold came back on, started running bad again and it would not start . That is when the coils and new plugs and wires where replaced, again for the plugs. Still nothing and we cannot have it read again because we cannot get it anywhere.

    no it was only driven on plain ole roads.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Valve cover gasket issue is common. Changed mine also last summer.
    NOw, investigation: just to be sure, I'd pull the IAC valve out and clean it. Stuck IAC valve was mentioned in a lot of Sportage forums as causing rough idle and starting problems...and it can cause lean mixture code too. Check all hoses and connection around purge valve front right fender....and again, check all sensor connectors for corrosion....
    What is your operation environment at this time? Snow?
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    operating conditions??? I am in Texas and it is 75 here, no rough conditions.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    75°F....I envy you. I used to love winter....way too long now.
    There are code readers at less than $100 and I think they may save more than their price by cutting blind investigation. reading the numbers as soon as they come can help...and some numbers have no incidence on operational availability so it cuts anxiety.
    But...a lot of troubles also go without generating any codes....and some other codes are their consequence, not their cause.
    Whatever you find, please report: everyone learns from the other here .
    I'd still be tempted to pull a plug wire and see for spark....and make a fuel pressure test on the fuel rail (42-45 psi) : spark and fuel are a must...and this issue must be cleared before anything else. I built a fuel pressure tester with an a/c refilling kit and water pump pressure gauge. THe check ball must be taken out of the connector . THe schrader valve for a/c is same as fuel rail.
  • mbraggmbragg Posts: 8
    The car does have fire just do not know if it has gas. What should we do now???
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