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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I never heard of this befor, but I will try anything. Thanks
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    THis circuit is all what you have unless some other feature has been added, such as remote start or immobilizer. Clutch or park/neutral switch can be a culprit. You will have to track the 12V . I'd check 12v direct from battery to starter solenoid blue wire (use small wire) first to ensure starter works, and then track back....
  • I am so excited to find this site,I have a 2002 sportage I bought new and have had very little trouble with it until now, I have had it at the dealership for over a week and the mechanic cant get it to duplicate the problem,my problem is when going down the road 45-65 mph it tries to go into 4x4 or at least that is what it feels like and makes a awful noise like the sound when my grand kids put a card in the spoke of their bicycle,at the same time it gives the sensation of running over a piece of rubber or something on the road,this is actually the 4th time to the dealer,1st time they replaced the air lines to the wheels said they were leaking,at that time they said the bearings would need replaced sometime in the near future but ok for now,2nd time they totally replaced the wheel bearings,still the problem was there and is intermittent,3rd time they thought the bearigs were installed wrong and rechecked everything,and said it was mechanically sound but within 120 miles, the distance to my home from the dealer,it happened again! I pulled over and came to a complete stop started over and made it the rest of the way home,I towed it back 4th time,this time the mechanic said I needed to replace the Hubs so I did that and to my shock the same thing is still happening at one point I felt the car would throw me in the ditch,I finally had my son take it back "towed". He told them to stop trouble shooting and fix it right! but the poor mechanic has driven it for about 120 miles and it wont duplicate the problem they have had it for over a week, do you think this vacuum selenoid could be my whole problem and what is the best way to repair it and keep my 4x4 since I live in the mountains.
    Please help me figure this out.... dailydata
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I understand you still have (new) vacuum hubs installed. I'm surprised because these vacuum hubs are almost impossible to find.
    Second I want to be sure all of this happens when you run in 2WD, right ?
    My reply in post #85 just above is about same case, so look in that direction. Disconnect "vacuum to hubs" hose as indicated here and run the car hence no stray vacuum will try to apply in that condition, then report the findings.
    If all is fine then,it means the solenoid conducts the vacuum when it should not, which is a common problem and should have been checked first.
    ALso, the hubs might have suffered beyond repair.....but this you will know afterwards.....
    Disconnect that hose and tell us what happens.
  • the dealer just installed new hubs less than 2 weeks ago and I'm not sure if they are vacuum hubs or not,I will ask on Monday,they still have my car but they cant get it to duplicate the problem while the mechanic is driving it,If the selenoid is the problem would it happen periodically like that? for a little while it happened 6 times in a row in about 15 miles (all on 1 trip) then not again for over 100 miles,it has only happened 3 times since they installed the new hubs so those are probably fine right?
    would it be better to replace the selenoid or change the new hubs to manuel hubs in order to keep my 4x4 working?
    how much would it be to replace the selenoid?
    dailydata
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    DO the test as indicated first . WIth the line disconnected, you should have no problem. A leak can be somewhat random so it is possible it happens several times in a row then not for some period of time.
    Of course, while the line is disconnected, you have 2WD only but do it to clear the situation. The other types of hubs (that is, the automechanical) cannot behave in such a random fashion, so I think you do have the vacuum. IN fact, both types ( the vacuum and the mechanical) can be seen in this document
    I do think the solenoid is the problem, but my way of doing things is not guessing, but testing. It saves a lot of money.
    Down the line, you will have to opt for new hubs, that is, mechanical or manual, instead of vacuum type. Toobad, because the vacuum, when they work well, are the easiest to use on this little truck but by the experience of all, they are totally unreliable and sooner or later, switching to another type is unavoidable....but we'll see to that later.
  • Im going to get my sprotage back from the dealer,I will disconnect the hose to the hubs,my question is can I just put the hose back on when I need to use my four wheel drive?
    dailydata
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Absolutely
  • Hi bmorreale, I saw that you got an online manual that helped. I have a 1997 sportage and cannot find a free manual online. Is there a site were I can get it? I went to the kia owners site but they only have 2000-07.
  • Hi, does anyone know of a site where I can download a 1997 Kia Sportage service manual? I am really in need of one to get my Kia properly fixed.
  • I forgot to ask,
    does the vacuum hose to the hubs need to be plugged off after disconnecting it? and do I also need to disconnect the electrical connector?
    Thanks
    Dailydata
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Try the Online Repair Manuals Guide for links.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Do not bather with the electrical connector and plugging the vacuum is not required on either side . ANyway, if you unplug the line, you will not try to use 4WD so the solenoid stays unergized and the solenoid valve is shut.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    www.kiatechinfo.com
    registration is free.
  • the rear wheel on my sportage locks up completly then releses could this be the vacuum hose i am in 2 wheel drive when this happens its like the brake coming on hard
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Are we talking the new model or the old one?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ...I'd check the rear brake assembly for loose parts, broken spring. Does this happen when you apply brakes? Is this car equipped with ABS?
  • hi its a 1999 model it happens when you start off but no brakes applied it has abs fitted
    have disconected vacuum pipe from solinod to try it today
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Are you talking of the vacuum solenoid to front hubs? It has no relation to rear brakes...Remove the 30A ABS fuse instead (fuse box in engine compartment) and see if the trouble goes away.
  • cheers i try it tomorow i live in england to dark to try tonight
    do you think i might be the abs having a faulty sensor kicking causing it
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Well...I'd rather test than guess but this possibility has to be examined first. Normally the ABS does weird tricks when one applies the brakes...but who knows....
  • My 02 sportage was trying to engage 4x4 while driving down the road I had it at the dealership for about 2 weeks,But I took your advice and disconnected the vacuum to hubs hose, myself. When I picked it up from the dealer I had to jump start it and the battery had never had a problem before, so I bought a new battery,Now I am back in love with my sportage, I have driven about 250 miles with absolutly no more problems!!!! I have learned from now on I am not going to trust the dealers mechanics, I am comming to this forum you guys are really knowledgable, thank you so much.
    Dailydata
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Great... now you will undoubtedly want to engage 4x4 sometime down the line....and obviously the present solenoid valve cannot be trusted....so I suggest you do a 4x4 test now plugging directly the line from "vacuum from reserve" to "vacuum to hubs" and see how it manages to pull itself from the mud ...this will be a test to verify the condition of the hubs, hoping they have survived the abuse from the leaking solenoid valve..
  • I am not clear about how to do this test,when I disconnected the "vacuum to hubs" hose (from the side of the selenoid) it felt as tho the hose was short,am I connecting hose to hose? so there would be no hose going into either top or side of selenoid?
    dailydata
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    technically it is the solenoid in an indirect way. the problem usually results from the front wheel bearings having excessive play(loose). this allows moisture to get past the rear bearing grease seal. this moisture travels thru the vacuum system causing the metal vacuum pipes to rust. this rust gets into the solenoid and the vacuum reserve canister and it "jams the solenoid partially open. to properly repair you should repack the ft wheel bearings and replace the seals. then run rubber vacuum hose all the way to the solenoid wire ziptying it to existing piping. replace the solenoid and remove the vacuum canister it is next to the solenoid. shake it and if it rattles it has rust in it. if it rattles you will also have to replace it. this will properly repair your vehicle.
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    i can access what you need. tell me your problem and i can get you info.
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    i may have a spare head in my garage i need to check. why do you need a head and valves. it is unheard of to need a cylinder head for these engines. usually the short block has problems not the head
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    he is incorrect this vehicle has normal spark plugs. they wear out at around 30,000 miles. it is advisable to also replace both ignition wires as they tend to only last for about the same amount of time. do not bother w/aftermarket wires on these they are junk. only use kia wires. they only cost 13-14dollars a piece. only use ngk plugs also as they are the best for this application.
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    technically speaking the left cam should have the e aligned with the mark and the right cam should have the i aligned. whenever designating the left or right of something on a car it should be referenced as if you were sitting in the drivers seat. an easirer way would be to align the i on the cam that is closest to the intake manifoldand the e on the cam closest to the exhaust manifold. dont worry about the keyway on the crank there is a mark above the pulley on the oil pump that aligns to a notch on the pulley
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    to replace the spark plugs first remove the rubber intake boot(phillips screwdriver). 3 12mm bolts and 2 10mm bolts holding the metal intake runner in place.remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the throttle cable bracket to the drivers side of the valve cover. 1 10mm bolt holding vacuum canister to bracket also on drivers side back of valve cover remove intake runner. next remove six bolts holding plastic cover over plugs also 10mm. remove cover. 4 10mm bolts hold down coils. remove these twist and pull up coils and wires. you are at plugs. recommend replacing 1 at a time so as to not reassemble incorrectly. recommend replacing both ignition wires at the same time. these commonly fail and they only cost 13-14 dollars each. do not use cheap aftermarket wires. only use kia wires they last 3-5 times longer than aftermarket wires
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