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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Can anyone tell me how the free wheeling hubs work on my 2000 manual transmission Sportage . My 4 X 4 doesn't engage at the wheels. The driveshaft is turning to the front differential, and I have axle movement. I jacked up the front end and there is no connection with the hubs and axle. I pulled the hubs off and disassembled them and cleaned them but can't figure out how they work. The gears and spring are free and appear to be in good condition. How does the spocket inside make a connection with the mating gear, if the spring is pushing between them??? What am I missing. Any help would be appreciated
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    According to your description, you have the original equipment vacuum activated hubs(right, below).
    image
    Hence, to test them as you say, your engine must be running!
    They are actuated by vacuum that comes through an electrically operated valve on left hand fender. THis valve comes on once the transfer case lever is fully moved to the 4wd position. At that time, solenoid is energized and vacuum from engine manifold is applied to the back of the hub piston (you must see hoses at the back of wheel bearing) and atmospheric pressure from the front (see vents on the hub) forces the piston in against the spring then engages "sprockets".
    THis system works beautifully when it works because it allows to engage "on the fly" because at the time the switch is activated, the shafts are already fully engaged and rotating at same speed as wheels, hence they engage without any danger of grinding. Similarly, when opting out of 4wd, hubs are released and you are driving fully with free wheeling front wheels .
    However, this system IS fragile and any leak in bearing seals and hoses or flawed operation of the vacuum solenoid will let you without 4WD and as most owners at this time having second hand SPortages, you had no control on the previous owner maintenance program..... so as most original series Sportage owners, you might end up converting to manual hubs or mechanical (cam activated) auto hubs. THis is another story, but some info here:
    link title
  • Hello all:

    I have a 2000 Kia Sportage. This morning after a 5 minute stop, I got back in the car and turned the heater on and its started making a loud whirling noise, sounded like something near the radiator? I have 107K on the vehicle. Any thoughts or suggestions, theres 4 inches of snow outside right now!!
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ...and what happened when you turned the heater off?
    If this is stricly related to heater blower operation, it can be some stray leaves that got in a few weeks or months ago.
    However after a 5 minute stop , it is possible there was enough heat in the engine compartment to raise the A/C regrigerant pressure enough that it can be triggered ON if your heater was on DEF or mix DEF/FLOOR position...because these positions automatically turn the A/C on to help dehumidify the air and clear fog....and when a/c turns on, the electric cooling fan near the radiator turns ON too...and some ice debris might have accumulated in this area.......hence the noise.
    In the cold, normally, a/c will not kick in because refrigerant pressure is too low and the lo pressure switch inhibits its operation.
    By the way, on mine, I have pulled the heater controls out and removed the little switch inside that turns the A/C on without my consentment. I can use the normal a/c button when I want to. ( ON my other car, this function is computer control...so I would have to endure..but then, in winter, I disconnect the pressure switch to be sure a/c never operates).
  • 1999 kia sportage started fine this morning, however after running for a few minutes it made a hissing noise and started pouring smoke out. The smoke wasn't from the radiator, it started from the driver's side up by the window. Any ideas what this may be and how to fix it?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Too few details for an accurate diagnostic. A few avenues though:
    Slipping alternator belt is a frequently reported though not fully explained problem, as it usually defies tightening as a solution, anyway, open hood and check for that when it happens.
    Not applicable here, but I mention it to avoid this kind of search, is that when turning to cold weather, a coolant too lean with antifreeze could turn into ice and block water pump and make the pump belt slip: not applicable with this car cause the pump is driven by the timing belt with cogs...and it would rather break the pump impeller itself....which could nevertheless cause overheating, but very improbable.
    PLease mention where you live...it is winter here, and ice on the exhaust pipe and catalyst could vaporize after a few minutes.....
    An oil leak ending up on the exhaust piping will generate lots of smoke but the smell will reveal its nature....but no "hiss" involved....
    Blocked catalytic have been reported with that kind of symptoms....but it is accompanied by degraded performance and is not on a sudden...
    So...may be a few more details will help..like was the smoke "up by the window" inside or outside the car? :D :confuse:
    By the way, is the Check Engine Light ON ?
  • I am new to this site, but I have only this car and really gotta fix it.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Is the Check Engine Light ON?
  • You hit it right on the mark! The noise only stopped after I turned off the heater. The a/c was triggered on and the button was on the def/floor position. After I turned off the AC button, it stopped, but now when I press down on the gas pedal to go, it gives the same kind of whirling noise but at a much much smaller decibel.
  • my check engine light was already on. The smoke was coming from under the hood up by the driver's side. Close to the window. Yes it is winter here (Ohio), and I am worried that there was not enough anti-freeze in my radiator. I'm waiting on a space heater to warm up the garage. Although I let the car run for a bit before driving, it didn't seem to be warmed up. I drove only a short distance, but even when I got home it was still blowing cold air throough the vents. Think maybe its the heating coil or something to do with that? Man this stinks! I can't go outside to work on auto for a lilttle bit (children). So I don't have a lot more info.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    WIth the heater not working, if confirms either your fluid turned into ice and if you can enter it in the garage while engine is warms the heat may spread and thaw the ice in the heater system. Ice does not flow easily through the heater core :( . , or:
    the other option, and I hope it is not the case, is a blown head gasket or craked block due to freezing, but the first explanation is enough to explain your case.. FIrst make sure the whole car temperature runs above freezing point before anything else, test coolant and add antifreeze .
  • Thanks for your help. I'm going to try to get it into the garage. I'll keep you posted.
  • so far I have determined that the hoses coming from the radiator are not attached to anything. It looks like one goes into another tank, (maybe the reserve I don't know but what ever it is, it is empty!) and I have no clue where the other one goes. Any ideals? :confuse:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    there are 2 large hoses..about 2 inches in diameter, and one small, about 1/2", goes to the reserve tank as you said.
    Top large hose passenger side goes to thermostat (Viewed from top in drawing below)
    Bottom large hose driver side returns to engine (Viewed from under in drawing below)
    image
    if this image link dead use this one
    hoses
  • Thank you. The one that goes to the reserve tank splits into two, do they both go into the reserve?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I do not see that on this drawing
    image
    I will check in my car tomorrow......too cold to-nite.....
  • ok, I got the hoses all connected. Now I need to drain the radiator and fill it with anti-freeze. Just one little problem, I can't find the drain plug. Any chance anyone has a picture or something? Man its 9:00 and I'm still out in the cold trying to fix this thing. Lol....
  • Can't locate the drainage plug for the radiator. I have a 1999 kia sportage ex. Anyone know where it is?
  • is there a way to leave hub locked in until i can replace on my 99 sportage i live in maine and need 4 wheel drive and it wont lock in
  • I really appreciate your message-very helpful in deciding what to do. The cam type automatic hublock is actually an older style from what I can see. Can the cam type be fitted to the 2000 Kia? Also maybe this is not the way to go since I don't know how reliable the cam type is. Do you know of any after market parts that would work for my application.
    Again I reallly appreciate your info. I have looked in all sorts of books and none of them mention the vacuum free wheeling hubs. They are always refered to as free wheeling hubs and never illustrate how they work.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Drain cock shows in the first drawing :
    image
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    The WARN cam type is the one availabe as after market replacement as referenced in the installation instructions I provided in previous post.. That is the one I have and it wirks flawlessly. If you do extreme off road, the manuals are better though.
    warn manual hubs: 60247
    warn auto hubs: 61918 (comes as a complete kit as illustrated in instruction sheet) check this link
    ANd yes, your vacuum type can be locked by dissassembling the hubs and simply moving the spring on the opposite side of the piston. THis will keep all the shafts turning full time, hence a little more drag, and you will have actual 4 or 2 wheel drive with the transfer case shifter.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    And..do not forget this is a part-time 4WD configuration (it has no differential between the rear and front driving shafts) and must NEVER be operated on 4WD on a dry surface for danger or overtorquing the drive train and specially the transfer case .
  • pootpoot Posts: 3
    I've got a 1995 Sportage 2.0 sohc 5 speed 4 x 4 that started hesitating about 1 year ago. When I say hesitate it's a flat spot akin to an older carb type engine. It's been a while since I checked the fuel pressure but I DO remember it was well within specs. But to be sure, I replaced the pump anyway and checked the tank strainer, replaced the fuel filter, ran thru a few bottles of injector cleaner over time, replaced the throttle pos. sensor, cleaned the throtle body, replaced the mass air flow meter, air filter, wires, and plugs. IT STILL HESITATES!!! Do ANYONE have an idea what the cause might be?! This is VERY aggrivating to drive but other then this it runs good and get's 25mpg.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    I went to start my car last night and took it out of 4 wheel drive and started to back up then i heard what sounded like the tires being stuck in ice then the check engine light popped on. So i backed up a little shut the car off then started it again hoping maybe the light would go off but it didn't. However, i got out of the car and saw what looked like a burst of oil where my car first was before i moved it then i loked under it and saw what looked like oil dripping from under the car. I then checked the oil and it seemed fine (i will check again later tonight after it has set for awhile). I also looked around the engine while i was checking the oil and saw what looked like oil by the oil filter and the filter was tight and no new oil on it. I was just ondering if anyone had any ideas of what it may be. Or if anyone has had a similiar experience. thanks... I guess i should mention it is a manual transmission as well.. sorry about that
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    -sounded like the tires being stuck in ice (well, this is possible: I can understand you have winter where you live..)
    -check engine light popped on
    -oil dripping from under the car
    puzzling....!??...these look like three unrelated events ..
    I understand it is the check engine light that popped on, not the oil pressure light..right?

    Can you have the code read?
    Did you try restarting tha car and how does it behave?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Really puzzling indeed....YOu have done all what the inital suggestions would have been ....
    I also understand you have no Check Engine Light ON....as this is a '95, it is probably OBD1 and there is a way to flash the codes, if any...but of course, OBD1 has limited capabilities......
    NOne of the options below is clearly defined by your description, but:

    Ever considered catalytic blockage? This has been linked to similar symptoms in several occasions: it acts mostly when trying to accelerate at wide throttle opening as there is an added exhaust volume to handle..then at steady road speed, the problem seems to be gone..

    What is mileage of engine and was timing belt changed before? I think the SOHC is less prone than the DOHC to belt failure/slippage, but it has limits too and I'd go for this check , just to be sure nothing is left in the unknown.
    image
    image
    image
    Another possibility - rare but verified on another car - would be a failed or shorted temperature sensor that then indicates a warmer temperature: this would lean the mixture, cause knocking, and then the knock sensor would retard timing, all that would cause symptoms that could match your description. However, such a failure would make starting rather difficult in the cold, so I'd rather dismiss this cue, but....just for the record....
  • Does any one know where I can find a manual or how to put the timing back in my Kia? Also need to know about torque specs for Head on a 2.0L engine and sequence. If anybody knows the answer or a good website to find this stuff please let me know!!!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Check this out: Online Repair Manuals

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Well i started the car this morning to warm it up and let the windows defrost for about 5 minutes and when i came out there was a pool of oil under the car so i took my roommates car, also the dipstick before i started it showed low. Then when i got home form work i check the oil again seeing as the car had plenty of time to set and it was almost empty. I am thinking maybe i burst a gasket or possibly the oil pump possibly went seeing as it only leaks when the car is running.
    As for checking the codes i am not sure how to do that on the kia i am used to having a honda where i am able to use a paper clip..
    And the oil light is still not on, that i do not understand myself. However the check engine light is on and that puzzles me as well..
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    The oil filter adapter (as well as filter) has been a culprit in the past. image THese are the only external oil passages...Check all bolts for tightness. Blown pressure switch have happened.
    As long as there is enough oil to build some pressure, the oil light will not pop ON.
    Reading the codes requires a scanner...
  • Hi. Hopefully someone may have a suggestion for me. My 2006 sportage has been having episodes where it will accelerate on its own, rev fast/high, and stall when the car is idling. Of course both times I have taken it to the shop the vehicle has not done this. Any suggestions? this is a real safety issue. Thank you
  • i need to know how to aline the counter balance shaft.not sure camshifts alinement either .
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    There is no counterbalance shaft
    image
    image
    image
    Detailed timing belt change and timing
    instructions
    Belt0
    Belt2
    Belt4
  • pootpoot Posts: 3
    Thanks 4 the reply Imp4 and here's some more info. I bought this Sportahe
    non-running. The T belt had apparently jumped causing it to get out of time so #4 piston hit the head, broke one valve off, which in turn beat the bottom of the head to pieces, busted the piston, but didn't hurt the cylinder yet the belt was NOT broken. The previous owner disassembled the motor, saw the problems, and threw the parts in the rear with the timing belt so I know it wasn't broken. I replaced the piston/head/belt/idler @ 109k and all was well. Roughly 3k after getting it running the hestitation started. Besides the things I've already checked/tried, I also went back over the valves but all are correct and while I can't recall the number, I also did a vacuum check and it was good/steady. It runs great down the road as long as your running steady. And though that was a good thought, it has never knocked once. Been a while since I've fooled with an OBD1 but like OBD2, if it detects a problem doesn't the check engine light come on? This one's light isn't on and the bulb is good. I know u retrieve the codes differently but in the sense of the light they function the same if memory serves. Right?
  • pootpoot Posts: 3
    No I haven't checked the cat for blockage but as for starting, it fires right up in both cold/hot weather no problem.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    OK i figured out what the problem was, it was the oil cooler. so i took it in to get it fixed and now i have another problem. After i have had my car shut off for awhile one of the relays under the hood starts to hum andn actually vibrates until i physically remove it from the car. What could be causing this? I mean i just got the car fixed. Any recomendations as the guy at the mechanics said it was possibly the computer but i just don't see how that could be as it was only setting there since it broke down....
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Can you identify which relay you are talking about? Will the car run without it?
    image
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Hi, The one that vibrates And makes the noise is the ECI Main (the big one on the left). then once i pull igt out there is a slight noise coming from the box but does not last long. The shop had left my interior light on and drained my battery could that have anything to do with it? adn i have yet to try and start it without it. I will give that a try..K i tried to start it without it and it will not start.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Obviously the car cannot run without this relay
    diagram
    THis relay is turned ON by the computer.
    THe ECU is fed all the time with 12v and a low voltage can have weird effects.Have the battery fully recharged before anything else.
  • here is my sob story. i own a 2oo2 kia sportage. it runs wonderful, to be honest one of the best vehicles i have ever owned. i purchased it from a dealer after 1 owner, with 6000 miles on it in 2004. now the drama. check engine light came on about the time for insp. sticker, took it to the dealer & said i needed to replace the fuel injectors. i laughed & left. anyways took it to an independent mechanic & poor me, he said almost the same thing. the computer read that both 02 sensors, the mass air flow sensor & all 4 injectors needed to be replaced. so like stubborn woman i did all that. still the light is on, still rejection sticker & still all reads from the computer. it has been reset over & over & over again. what do i do next? any info, help something please. i love my kia but not the money it seems to be amounting to.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ..is it possible you have noted the actual code numbers? (rather than their interpretation) . Some codes show as the result of a problem rather than the cause or point to several or all possibilities.
    Obviously, you seem to have problem with fuel metering.....and a variety of possible factors has been thrown out. But other factors are not monitored....like the idle air control valve that several owners have blamed on kind of similar occurences. Have you noticed other symptoms or annoyances that could reveal the real culprit ? Please list the actual parts that were replaced.
  • Okie dokie, actual parts replaced were the mass air flow sensor, 02 sensor, O.E type, and the other one not sure of its exact mane lost the receipt for that 1. Also plugs and wires were changed, fuel injectors were serviced & cleaned by a certified mechanic, and an oil change. I am not quite sure what you mean about actual code numbers so I will just type it to you as I am reading it. P0171 OEM Brand: Domestic-definition fuel trim bank 1 condition Explanation (in short) computer has recognized a rich and or lean condition one bank only. Probable causes 1. MAF Sensor 2. Oxygen sensor defective 3. Engine misfire-repair 4. Fuel Injector problem. P0171 OEM Brand: OBDII no explanation under that heading other than bank 1 and 2.
    As for problems my sportage has never backfired sputtered ran sluggish, lost any rpms, burned excessive oil, used ridiculous amounts of gas. I feel it runs just as well as the first day I had purchased the car. I hope this answers some of your questions, if not I will try again. Thx.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    OK P0171 is too lean detected....
    "In order to provide the best possible combination of drivability, fuel economy and emission control, the ECM uses a closed loop air/fuel metering system. The ECM monitors the HO2S signal voltage and adjusts fuel delivery based it in closed loop fuel control. Changes in fuel delivery will be indicated by the long-term and the short-term fuel trim values. The ideal fuel trim value is around 0%. The ECM will add fuel when the HO2S signal is indicating a lean condition. Additional fuel is indicated by fuel trim values that are above 0%. The ECM will reduce fuel when the HO2S signal is indicating a rich condition. Reduction in fuel is indicated by fuel trim values that are below 0%. The DTC relevant to fuel trim will be set when the amount reaches excessive levels because of a lean or rich condition.
    The ECM sets DTC P0171 If ECM detects exhaust emissions reach an excessively lean level due to a lean condition."


    NOw since all the "probable" (my version is "possible" ) causes have been dealed with, too lean means once computer has reached the limits, it is still too lean. My first "real" test would be for fuel pressure. I suspect fuel pressure might be low, either pump failure, clogged fuel filter, or failed pressure regulator. Have a pressure test at fuel rail to make or bust this option before searching for anything else; should be 42-45 psi
    My second question is about O2 sensors: there are 2: one before the catalytic, one after. it seems the two were replaced, right, otherwise I'd verify that.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i had the battery checked and it was good. where do i go from here do i replace the relay?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Negative. If as you say the relay "buzzes" when the key is off, something must be wrong elsewhere. IN any case, just to be sure, just swap the fuel pump relay and the EGI relay one for the other and see if the same occurs.
    image
    By hte way this is not the first time this oddity occurs...but the issue was not solved or the solution not reported...
    Anyway, if this "buzz" continues, I'd make sure there are no debris or sand or salt or moisture that have invaded the bottom of this fuse/relay box.
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok funny thing the buzzing has just came to a halt. Why i do not know. but if it starts up again i will try switching the two relays around. If that fixes the problem what should i do then?
    Thanks
  • My check engine light just started blinking at me. This happened after filling the fuel tank. Truck is also running very rough since. 2001 Sportage.

    :sick:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    SImple things first: check if fuel filler cap is tight.
    If it does not cure the problem, check hoses on top of fuel tank by opening the cover (4 screws) under right rear seat.
    In any case, reading the codes would help. Autozone does it for free, I'm told.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Ort102 wrote: "Ok funny thing the buzzing has just came to a halt. Why i do not know. "
    My interpretation: some moisture had found a way somewhere and has finally dried off. Then..probably..it might come again.
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