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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    do you just mean the white fan behind the radiator? if so it starts when i turn the car on. so that would mean it would continue to run once the car was on correct?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ..yes, the fan between radiator and engine. Is it electrical or belt driven? factory is belt, but some owners replaced it with an electric fan. ANyway Ohio is not that warm at this time of the year, I suppose...
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    It is belt driven. now i guess i have another question, is there anything else i would notice if the head gasket was blown. and i also noticed that when i tirned the blower motor on the guage did move up a little bit with thuring it on then dropped down a little once i shut it off.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    i noticed that when i turned the blower motor on the guage did move up a little bit with thuring it on then dropped down a little once i shut it off
    That is almost "normal" as the return grounds for dash and blower are common and slight variation is expected. WHen the ground connection goes awry, the variation worsens.

    is there anything else i would notice if the head gasket was blown.

    in SOME cases, coolant spills in a cylinder when the car is stopped and is ejected in the exhaust manifold at start-up and this produces a short duration heavy white cloud at startup ....THis is somewhat confusing in cold weather because it is difficult to make the difference with what we already experience. HOwever when it shows in warm weather, the difference is more conspicuous. But absence of such cloud is not a sign that the problem does not exist.

    If the coolant spill invades the oil pan, the inside of oil cap will be covered with a disgusting white-brownish foamy sludge. But many times , specially when the leak is not severe, it happens only when the engine runs and exhaust goes from the cylinder to the cooling system.. However, when a car is run only for short treks in very cold temperatures, stray water vapour as a combustion product is not readily evaporated by high heat and accumulates and can generate some foamy goo...and that would stop showing in the summer.

    draining the oil pan might show traces of coolant

    The car will require topping the coolant tank almost daily

    Irregular heat flow from heater and erratic temp needle are telltale signs....

    -"intestinal" noises (borborygmi) in the heater system

    GOing for a head gasket replacement is something one wants not to think of and this is why when I suspect such, I want a sure proof and the compressed air test is really a go-nogo clue. IF compressed air into a cylinder generates bubbles at the radiator cap, you have no choice. ...just starting the engine with the fuel pump relay disconnected might be able to pump air through a leak and bring bubbles at radiator because of the compression cycle in cylinders...but I do not like the noise and strain on starter and battery and the result is less conspicuous...so I prefer to use externally compressed air. My late Dodge Omni was a regular user of that test....but the spark plugs were an easy reach...

    Several would prefer to try everything else and many go to large expenses to avoid this operation and a few in the forums changed radiators, water pump, thermostat of course, installed a larger electric fan.....sometimes this procures some extra cooling margin but if the head gasket was failed, all of this ended up as waisted expenses added to the replacement cost...so I would go no farther than low cost "tests" like checking the radiator hoses for internal peeling ...rare but just to be sure .. even try a radiator flushing agent... and as I said, running the car WITHOUT a thermostat because a totally free flow might make coolant circulation to radiator easier to be seen.

    My first choice would be the unambiguous compressed air testing: if it proves positive...you will have some of the work already done. Somewhere I had written a "procedure" for spark plugs replacement...will look for....
    yeah...here
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    in previous post I wrote:
    If the coolant spill invades the oil pan, the inside of oil cap
    I'm talking of the oil filler cap....
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok i went and looked at the oil cap and there was a little bit of a milky whit substance there so i wiped it clean and i will look again after i drive the car to see of more appears.
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    We did the test it is not the fuel pump, running out of ideas. Does any one have suggestions
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    sue 45 said:
    We did the test it is not the fuel pump, running out of ideas. Does any one have suggestions

    OK then for fuel supply. What about the other tests I suggested in my first reply:
    WHen voltage runs low (for alternator problem) engine starts being erratic : injectors do not fire, spark is poor, ..and battery runs down. Use a voltmeter and test battery voltage with engine running (14.2-14.7)
    There have been cases of blocked catalyser...disconnect exhaust and run a test with a lot of noise..(That's fun)...


    ALso, I cannot dismiss the possibility of the timing belt having jumped a cog or 2, so I'd certainly verify that. You said it had been changed...when?
    Is the Check ENgine Light ON? And if so, retreive codes and post them.

    YOU said it lacks power...can you describe that with more details? DOes the engine start well?
    IS it a manual or automatic? If an auto, do you start from standstill with the HOLD light ON? (this starts in 2nd gear., quite mushy.).
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok sorry for the delay in letting you know what i found out. I have yet to get a meter to test the amps. However, I ended up taking the car in and and apparently my clutch was gone in the fan i thought because it was moving it waws ok. But i am guessing it wasn't. But then i still had the over-heating problem so they kept the car for a few days then they finally had to have someone from kian come look at it. And they said that it was overheating due to the system needing burped. This was somethign i had never heard of but i guess once you change the thermostat you need to do this. And since the "burp" it has not over-heated. thansk for all your help. I hope i do not have to come back and bother you with anymore problems.
    Thanks
  • i got a diagnostic test done that read . p1123 tra air lcfk age can anyone tell me what the fault is please
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    We just changed the timing belt a couple of weeks ago at the same time we replaced everything else I mentioned. It did fix the problem of it having no power to go over 50 or 60 km per hour. It starts fine and idles fine, the issue is when you put it in gear it is really sluggish like it has no power until you get up to over 60km per hour. It is an automatic
  • ort102ort102 Posts: 23
    Ok so now i have anotgher problem :confuse: I drove to cleveland today which is aboutu 3 hours away and at about 90 miles into the trip the temp guage started to go up. So i turned on the heat it dropped back below half. then when i got off at my exit the guage shot all the way down below cold then started dancing around as i would accelerate and when i would come to a stop it would just drop again.. any ideas
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    the trip the temp guage started to go up.
    turned on the heat it dropped back below half.
    then ..the guage shot all the way down below cold then started dancing around
    when i would come to a stop it would just drop again.. any ideas

    That was one of symptoms I already described as associated with exhaust invasion of cooling system due to a blown head gasket. THis is what "burps" the system.
    I told you many ways to check specifically for this...I think this relieves you from more testing. Most obviously, you have a blown head gasket.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    P1123 Long Term Fuel Trim Adaptive Air System Low - Read Our
    Article On Oxygen Sensor Codes For Help With This Kia Check Engine Light Code

    PLease indicate year model.
    THis indicates computer tries to correct for mixture past its available range. THere is a problem with the fuel delivery system. DO you have other symptoms?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    "it is really sluggish like it has no power until you get up to over 60km per hour. It is an automatic "
    Did you have this car for a long time? DO you compare the performance to this same car as you knew it before, or to other cars you are used to drive? Objectively, this engine has no torque at low rpm ...so what you say is not very different from its "normal" behaviour....that is why I want to know your base for comparison....

    I had asked you to confirm you do not start with the HOLD light on...
  • Our radiator had been leaking a little bit and We just found out yesterday from the dealership that it is a blown gasket and they want $1000 to $2000 for fixing it!! Can we use one of those stop leak products instead? My husband found some thing called Steel Seal on the internet which is supposed to be garanteed but it almost seems too good to be true.
  • Hello:

    I think the catalytic converter in the front needs to be replaced. A mechanic in my church will do the work for free, only $200 for the part. Does anyone know, the repair shop told me theres a front catalytic converter and a rear one? Is that true? Six months ago the check engine light on and the codes showed a leak in the EVAP system. Thanks.
  • I've replaced the spark plugs, the wires, the coil packs, and we've sealed the top half of the engine again (oil was hitting the back spark plug) and I'm still having issues.

    I don't know what the name of it is, but there's a wire in the back of the engine, a little left of the center, that when moved simulated the shaking and stalling I was going through. When we moved it, the shaking stopped. We zip tied it, and replaced it. Car ran fine for two days, and now it's doing the same thing again. I'm absolutely furious about this. My job is very strict about coming in on time, and me being without a car is going to cause me to lose my job. I need some help with this, and a friend of mine works on cars all the time cannot figure this out at all.

    I'm stuck. Help if you can.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    re: radiator
    I do not believe in miracles...and I always wonder how these "stopleak" agents know what to plug, and what not. ILve never used them and would not, but I know some did...and checked their problem for a while, while others ended up with a clogged radiator or heater core that they had to change on top of the head gasket.....if the instant return on probability of success is worth it, calculate your odds..but in the end, the head gasket will have to be done. I understand proper (or improper) timing can be a factor.
    THIs car gasket change is not such a tedious job as access is not that bad and I think some trusted mechanic can do it for much less. $1500 is what it takes to do both heads on a GM 3.4 when half of the car has to be taken out or the engine subframe lowered down and out.....so same amount is out of proportion for a Sporty.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    re: I've replaced the spark plugs, the wires, the coil packs, and we've sealed the top half of the engine again
    Details on year , model, engine type , color of wire . ANy code available?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    re: think the catalytic converter in the front needs to be replaced.
    What were the starting elements for this conclusion?
    Yes there are 2 cats.
    Leak codes for EVAP system are quite common.....and they come and go for no reason...anyway, check all hoses to the evap can and solenoid valve on right fender and keep fuel fill cap tight.
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    Have had the car for the last 4 years, it is nothing compared to what it used to be. The car is started without the hold light on. We are in the process of checking your other list of things to try. Not a lot of time to spend on it, and have not driven it for awhile :cry:
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I did not go back to see previous posts...a little bit tedious...but..
    - My fist suspicion is still about belt/cam timing....may be it was double checked, may be not... but I would not go investigating a lot of other possible factors unless I'm 100% positively categorically sure this item is OK.....
  • HI UNDUE your Negative BATTERY CABLE (BLACK) for 10 mins, then put it back on..this should erase your CHECK ENGINE LITE that si on..you will have to reset your clock inside the car..good luck
  • HELLO RAN
    I believe this was a RECALL by KIA ..you can check this at www.car.com (think they list that recall there)..
    2 connectors go to YOUR COIL PACKS..Kia says C123 and C124 CONNECTORS come loose from engine vibration and make this car stall and run rough..you can wire tie them at both ends..but I taped mine REALLY tight with ELECTRICAL wire so the connectors would NOt come loose again..KIA should replace these for free if you can find the recall info.
    These (connector) wires are connected to a RED and WHITE wires(inside the connector) that fire your coils..GOOD LUCK! Let me know how things go ~
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    onejule wrote:
    I think the catalytic converter in the front needs to be replaced. A mechanic in my church will do the work for free, only $200 for the part. Does anyone know, the repair shop told me theres a front catalytic converter and a rear one?

    Here is one
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02-kia-sportage-manifold-catalytic-converter-u- pper_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33629QQihZ001QQitemZ110229830518QQrdZ1QQsspagena- meZWDVW

    HOwever, check this photo
    http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg246/avigex/frontcat.jpg
    as it seems some come with the front pipe, others not....
  • onejuleonejule Posts: 4
    Your awesome, thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • dan133dan133 Posts: 2
    Hello... I'm planning on buying a 2002 sportage (2.0--manual trans--4x4--4dr 50000miles on it.) I've been reading the posts in the forum & beginning to wonder if its a good idea or not. Would like to know if some of you could tell me some specifics to look for before i finalize the sale, & would you buy one again?? I have an appointment to look at it again tomorrow nite. I have looked it over once, & driven it & I liked it. I noted the smell of antifreeze with the hood up standing in front of it. Also heard antifreeze circulating for about 15 seconds after shutting off the engine. I noted the temp gauge reading was exactlt in the middle while driving. I intend on using this as a daily driver & to tow behind my motorhome once in a while. I appreciate any info & advice. THANKS
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Depends on price.
    ALthough head gaskets failure is not a common issue with that engine, some cases are reported and what you mentioned trigs my caution.....At least, I'd fill the radiator to the rim when cold, leave cap off then run the engine and look for bubbles coming out the rad ..some lost "air" bubbles might escape at first...but if a continuous supply of bubbles come, that means exhaust invasion and a blown head gasket.
    Also, check for fluctuating temp needle when you run the car on the road, and for continuous heat output form the heater. Random heater output (turns cold, then warm...might be accompanied by borborythms) is sign of blown gasket.
    Other than that, there is the common issue of front hubs going haywire, but this is easy to solve for 200$ ...a common problem that is not a no-no.
    ..and the little beast is fun to drive....specially with a manual...
  • dan133dan133 Posts: 2
    Thank you. I will follow your advice & check the head gasket. The selling price will probably be $5000. I will most likely install manual hubs. Got a lot of good info just reading the posts in this forum. You're right....it is fun to drive. My wife even liked driving it & she hasn't driven a manual in 25 yrs.
  • sue45sue45 Posts: 7
    The timing belt was replaced about 1mth ago, when we were trying to figure out the problem. It works well for a a few miles and then starts doing the same thing again. It is like it has a bug, works well then doesn't work well and then doesn't. It was put on the computer and it came up the 02 sensor and throttle position sensor but can't really get a decent reading because of the issue it has.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    It was put on the computer and it came up the 02 sensor and throttle position sensor

    TPS makes sense. THis is not an expensive item and it is easy to change. I would not dismiss that indication. Failed TPS will cause jerk and buck....Pay attention to connectors.
    O2 will have effect once car it up to temperature..because it is out of the loop when cold. It depends which code: hi or lo O2 readings can be caused by other factors, like failed injectors, as well as O2 sensor and connectors. O2 heater code is a problem with the sensor itself or connectors.
  • marika1marika1 Posts: 7
    I have a 2001 Kia Sportage. I had the car in the shop in January, 2008 (about 35 days ago) and had the wheel hubs, front left axel, and a few other things replaced as the front wheel was making a funny whistling sound. After spending $1700.00 I was driving my car and put the car into 4 Wheel Drive before leaving my driveway. It was the first time I put the 4 Wheel on since picking the car up from the shop. About 3 miles later, the transfer case exploded and cut the transmission line. I would like to know if anyone has every experienced or heard of such a thing. I was told that somehow the 4 wheel drive was jammed which caused such a pressure that the tranfer case exploded. I'd like to know if this "explosion" may have resulted from the repairs that were done in January. I was also told that only a four wheel drive axel can be put on my car, however when I review my bill from January, it states a "A.W. Drive Axel" was put on my car. Does this sound right?? Any information relating to this problem would be great!!!
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    This car cannot physically be fitted with anything else than what duplicates the original. So whatever the labelling, what was installed is not the cause of your problem.
    THe most ..and, in fact, the only probable cause for overtorquing the transfer case is running on dry pavement with the 4WD engaged. THis 4x4 is labelled "part time 4WD" and MUST NEVER ..never never...be run on asphalt in 4x4 because it has no differential between front and rear drive shafts and any difference in front and rear wheel speed (like when turning) will overstress the transfer case with the eventual result you describe.
    Sorry that happens after $1700.
    Look for salvage yards for a replacement T-case...even e-bay, may be,...and come back for further info as you wish. Please also state what type of new hubs were installed as there are special precautions in using the auto-mechanical type for the sake of the hubs themselves (as opposed to the original vacuum type).
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Now....may be procure more details on the "nature" of the explosion (is the case cracked and oil spliled out) and what do you describe as a "cutting the transmission line".
  • freds6freds6 Posts: 2
    I have a KIA Sportage 2005 4WD. I don't know if the term is correct, but the small orange light just above the headlight and to the right is burned out. This is the light that lights up when going to first click on the headlight switch.

    I looked in thinking I can change a simple light bulb. WRONG! The area is so packed with stuff that I can't even identify where the connector or housing is for this light. I sure don't want to go to a dealer and spend $40 or more just to replace a light bulb.

    Can anyone help? PLEASE....
  • marika1marika1 Posts: 7
    Hi, thanks so much for the reply. I can assure you that the vehicle was put in four wheel drive during a snow storm. roads were totally snow covered. I was told by the mechanic that when the car was put into four wheel drive something jammed it which caused the transfer case to explode. (we only made it a couple of miles before it exploded) You mentioned something about the hubs being replaced. The two front wheel hubs were replaced (XDL OKO1A3320xB), along with the front left axel and shaft, wheel bearings. If you have any further information which might be helpful, that would be great. Thanks so much for your time.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ....something jammed....??
    ..if that happened right after the wheel bearing change, I could have suspected the wheel bearing was adjusted too tight..and that can cause a wheel bearing to seize, I've seen it happen... but this is not dependant of running in 4WD..so it should have occurred before...
    ....just confirm nothing was changed in the front differerential...($1700....that must cover a lot of parts...???_...I can't imagine someone might have replaced the differential with the wrong ratio....which would be relevant of causing havoc as soon as 4WD is engaged...but this would be almost not imaginable....(.I'm just thinking out loud...)
    ..is it possible the front driving shaft (between t-case and differential) got loose ?
    DO you use oversize tires?...

    Can you take photos of the underneath?
    ..??? part number for the hubs are unknown to me...usually the original hubs are changed to Warn auto-mechanical, which involve changing the spindle nuts..the one that keep the bearing properly tight..so this info can be related ..as the spindle nut has to be blocked by a key: if the key was forgotten, there is a possibility that engaging the 4WD would force the spindle nut on right side ...to get tighter and seize the bearing...this is speculation at this point, but I would certainly check if the spindle nut key was properly installed....you should then have felt a sudden braking effect as the bearing seized...

    Other than that....I'm left with a freak incident....but... that occurred after work was performed on these components..of course, it leads to thinking there is some connection.....an unwanted number of aircraft accidents or incidents occur just after the plane went through maintenance....so......
    At this moment, can you move the vehicle ?
    What is the condition of the t-case? is it visibly cracked ?
    IN any case, keep us informed of the development...
    ..
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Sportage 2005..small orange light just above the headlight and to the right is burned out.
    YOu have to take the headlight cluster out to change that bulb. Check this out that I picked up from KIa website.
    You can register at www.kiatechinfo.com and browse through and download almost anything about your car.
  • freds6freds6 Posts: 2
    Thank you very much for the assist. It is appreciated.
  • marika1marika1 Posts: 7
    Well I had an "expert" do a report on my car. He took pictures, etc and stated that the damage was not as a result of the work that was done on my vehicle and that it was a failed U-joint which had apparently dried out and corroded and literally snapped. The "commercial" car centre I initially took my vehicle to in January 2008 told me they did a report card on my car and a U-joint was never mentioned to me as needing to be replaced. Would this be something that would have been apparent when working on my car in January. I'm told now that I need a new transfer case assembly and front drive shaft. Your comments are very much appreciated. Thanks so much
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    it was a failed U-joint
    ..so, it was indeed possible the front driving shaft (between t-case and differential) got loose !
    ....obviously at the differential ! I can imagine the thump that followed and the result is consequential. But I have just changed a U-joint on that driving shaft 2 months ago, and cannot imagine it would "break" by itself, rust or anything else. ...it it broke, that means one part is still BOLTED to the differential.....is it? Hard to speculate from here, but I'd like to see the photos...
    My U-joint had given sign of fatigue a L O N G time ago, vibrations and noise when in 4WD...and since it was used only for brief episodes, I would not care much but around last Christmas, it became really scary and the vibration was intolerable an potentially a risk for other components and with winter just beginning, then I changed it....all this just to signal it does not come "on a sudden".....Of course, when installing the driving shaft back on the car, I made sure all bolts were properly tightened.....
  • marika1marika1 Posts: 7
    Thanks for your response. What I was wondering though, is the U-Joint something that would have been visible during the work they performed. Would they have had to see that this U-joint was corroded and ready to snap. Here is what they did do the car: Install left front axel, shalf, wheel bearings, wheel hubs, remove left front steering knuckle, replace needle bearing for input shaft, replace seals. replace left axel shaft, replace left innter and outer bearing, replace updated 4WD hub assemblies. They also told me that when I complete this work, the car would be fine for the next 10 years (which is apparently not the case). I have the photos on my computer but I am not sure how to add them to this reply. Do you have a separate email that I could email them to??">
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    It is possible they did not peek to that area. What surprises me more is that you had no previous signs of that condition...unless you did not engage 4WD for years... e-mail photos at [email protected]
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    If you set up your CarSpace page, you can post the photos in an Album there. Then we can all look at them.

    Click on the My CarSpace tab up top to get started. It's all free btw.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    pictures:
    pic1
    pic2
    pic3
    pic4
    ...wow.. it did snap off with a bang....even the bracket was torn off the sub frame...
    ...
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ...but...I'm still curious about the other end of the driving shaft....the one that connects to the differential...did you take a photo of tht end..and differential ? Was one section of the driving shaft still attached to the differential ?..... I wonder if it is possible that the "snap" we see in the pictures occured rather as a consequence of another failure ...In fact, the extent of the damage would rather indicate the shaft first got loose from the differnetial end, fell down, planted in some road obstacle, then jacked the t-case up explaining the torn off frame bracket and the case extended upwards..then snapped as it went past 90° vertical
    ....where was the driving shaft after the car stopped ? ANd in how many pieces? It shows as assembled in this picture,..image
    .were the two parts put together after the fact....? May be I'm "paranoid"...but if all of it was found on the ground, in 1 or in 2 separate parts, it did separate from the differential first...
    THis is just such an unusual event ......the few times I saw that..on other cars..it was because one end got loose for the bolts had fallen...I think is almost impossible it "snapped" like that just on engine torque...and anyway, just snapping at that end should not have caused much damage...
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Dave Scott, who has access to my photo bank on another forum , without reading my comments, also said
    ".....it looks like the driveshaft got pushed back into the t-case"
    confirming the interpretation that the shaft separated at the differential first....
    I think the event is not a "freak"....
  • marika1marika1 Posts: 7
    Thanks so much for your input. So how should I handle this when I go to the car shop. What approach should I take. The car was used in 4WD in December before I took it into the shop in January and I did not have any problems with the 4WD. I took the car into the shop because of the noises it was making in the front wheel which resulted in all the work that was done. My belief is that since this was the first time the 4WD was used since picking up the car, it has to be related. Also, my Kia only has 105,000.00 kms. on it. Its my baby - any advise on how to approach the mechanics who worked on my car would be gratefully appreciated. I think you guys are awesome!!!
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    My view.comes from too far away , but some independant knowledgeable person would confirm the facts ..: some negligence is involved in the condition of the driving shaft after the $1700 repair. THe shaft just cannot just have snapped from the T-case end AND cause that damage: if it had snapped like that, it would have fallen to the ground, trailing, would have been out of the way and then unable to cause that damage. It did separate from the other end.

    If you intent to ask for some compenstion for this damage that should not have occured after a $1700 repair, you must be able to answer to these questions:

    - was the whole driving shaft on the ground after the "incident" ? (I'm quite sure it was, but you have to remember it as a fact you verified yourself or somone else can testify)

    -had the driving shaft been removed from the differential to perform the repairs in the front ? (implying it can have been installed back with bolts improperly tightened)

    Can you take a picture of the OTHER end of the driving shaft and the differential flange that normally connects to the driving shaft ?
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