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Kia Sportage Maintenance and Repair



  • I forgot to ask,
    does the vacuum hose to the hubs need to be plugged off after disconnecting it? and do I also need to disconnect the electrical connector?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,457
    Try the Online Repair Manuals Guide for links.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Do not bather with the electrical connector and plugging the vacuum is not required on either side . ANyway, if you unplug the line, you will not try to use 4WD so the solenoid stays unergized and the solenoid valve is shut.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    registration is free.
  • the rear wheel on my sportage locks up completly then releses could this be the vacuum hose i am in 2 wheel drive when this happens its like the brake coming on hard
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Are we talking the new model or the old one?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    ...I'd check the rear brake assembly for loose parts, broken spring. Does this happen when you apply brakes? Is this car equipped with ABS?
  • hi its a 1999 model it happens when you start off but no brakes applied it has abs fitted
    have disconected vacuum pipe from solinod to try it today
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Are you talking of the vacuum solenoid to front hubs? It has no relation to rear brakes...Remove the 30A ABS fuse instead (fuse box in engine compartment) and see if the trouble goes away.
  • cheers i try it tomorow i live in england to dark to try tonight
    do you think i might be the abs having a faulty sensor kicking causing it
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Well...I'd rather test than guess but this possibility has to be examined first. Normally the ABS does weird tricks when one applies the brakes...but who knows....
  • My 02 sportage was trying to engage 4x4 while driving down the road I had it at the dealership for about 2 weeks,But I took your advice and disconnected the vacuum to hubs hose, myself. When I picked it up from the dealer I had to jump start it and the battery had never had a problem before, so I bought a new battery,Now I am back in love with my sportage, I have driven about 250 miles with absolutly no more problems!!!! I have learned from now on I am not going to trust the dealers mechanics, I am comming to this forum you guys are really knowledgable, thank you so much.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Great... now you will undoubtedly want to engage 4x4 sometime down the line....and obviously the present solenoid valve cannot be I suggest you do a 4x4 test now plugging directly the line from "vacuum from reserve" to "vacuum to hubs" and see how it manages to pull itself from the mud ...this will be a test to verify the condition of the hubs, hoping they have survived the abuse from the leaking solenoid valve..
  • I am not clear about how to do this test,when I disconnected the "vacuum to hubs" hose (from the side of the selenoid) it felt as tho the hose was short,am I connecting hose to hose? so there would be no hose going into either top or side of selenoid?
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    technically it is the solenoid in an indirect way. the problem usually results from the front wheel bearings having excessive play(loose). this allows moisture to get past the rear bearing grease seal. this moisture travels thru the vacuum system causing the metal vacuum pipes to rust. this rust gets into the solenoid and the vacuum reserve canister and it "jams the solenoid partially open. to properly repair you should repack the ft wheel bearings and replace the seals. then run rubber vacuum hose all the way to the solenoid wire ziptying it to existing piping. replace the solenoid and remove the vacuum canister it is next to the solenoid. shake it and if it rattles it has rust in it. if it rattles you will also have to replace it. this will properly repair your vehicle.
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    i can access what you need. tell me your problem and i can get you info.
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    i may have a spare head in my garage i need to check. why do you need a head and valves. it is unheard of to need a cylinder head for these engines. usually the short block has problems not the head
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    he is incorrect this vehicle has normal spark plugs. they wear out at around 30,000 miles. it is advisable to also replace both ignition wires as they tend to only last for about the same amount of time. do not bother w/aftermarket wires on these they are junk. only use kia wires. they only cost 13-14dollars a piece. only use ngk plugs also as they are the best for this application.
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    technically speaking the left cam should have the e aligned with the mark and the right cam should have the i aligned. whenever designating the left or right of something on a car it should be referenced as if you were sitting in the drivers seat. an easirer way would be to align the i on the cam that is closest to the intake manifoldand the e on the cam closest to the exhaust manifold. dont worry about the keyway on the crank there is a mark above the pulley on the oil pump that aligns to a notch on the pulley
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    to replace the spark plugs first remove the rubber intake boot(phillips screwdriver). 3 12mm bolts and 2 10mm bolts holding the metal intake runner in place.remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the throttle cable bracket to the drivers side of the valve cover. 1 10mm bolt holding vacuum canister to bracket also on drivers side back of valve cover remove intake runner. next remove six bolts holding plastic cover over plugs also 10mm. remove cover. 4 10mm bolts hold down coils. remove these twist and pull up coils and wires. you are at plugs. recommend replacing 1 at a time so as to not reassemble incorrectly. recommend replacing both ignition wires at the same time. these commonly fail and they only cost 13-14 dollars each. do not use cheap aftermarket wires. only use kia wires they last 3-5 times longer than aftermarket wires
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    you are crazy the hubs are not doomed for failure it is people not having there bearings packed or adjusted. this needs to be done every 30000 miles. if not they get play and this causes the grease seals to stop sealing . this allows moisture into the vacuum system which causes rust to form. once rust forms the solenoid jams up. also the moisture causes rust in the hubs and they freeze up. whatever happened to routine maintenance on wheel bearings?
    people want to blame cheap parts not themselves for lack of maintenance
  • ddemingddeming Posts: 11
    i have found on alot of 1998-2002 sportages corrosion on the start contact of the solenoid at the starter causing a poor contact. usually i cut the connector tip off and replace it with a new female spade connector. on 2 occasions the inhibitor switch on the trans was bad
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    " I connecting hose to hose? so there would be no hose going into either top or side of selenoid ? dailydata "

    Yes, just find a piece of small solid tubing to join the 2 hoses. Well you can do the test by plugging back into the solenoid just as it was before then running on 4x4. As the valve is obviously contaminated my dust, rust, or whatever, (just as mine was when I bought it) I just wish you do not scrape the hubs again if you revert the T-case to 2WD and some stray vacuum still passes through the unenergized valve and tries to keep the hubs applied.
    If the 4WD proves functional...proving the hubs have survived and the system is air tight, then unplug everything to revert to 2WD and look for ways to clean or replace the solenoid valve (I cleaned mine and all went fine during summer - summer is nice on seals - ...until the vacuum hub system proved itself unable to sustain operation at -30° in winter. That is when I reluctantly said goodby to vacuums..Kia Canada had a "recall" on the hubs and replaced them for free with Warn auto-mechanical).
  • 1996 sportage will run until it gets warm, then won't. Could it be a sensor? Any ideas?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I suppose it will restart once cooled down. THis symptom is a classic of crank position sensor failure, with this engine as with a lot of others.
    WHIle this is not an absolute, it should be investigated.. ..access to the crank sensor is not as easy as it seems on the photo: it can be accessed from under the car. '96 is OBD2, probably. Do you have the Check ENgine Light set?
  • Hi. I need help getting my drivers side door panal off. I have a 1999 4wd Kia sportage and the window fell down into the door. Unsure as to why, but cannot figure out how to get panal off to find out. I have gotten the screws out and the panal popped lose, but do not know how to get the door handle on inside off or the electric window controls off. Also if you have any ideas on why the window fell and what I need to do to fix it that would be great. Winters coming and I can't see through plastic on my window:) Thanks ahead of time.
  • Help, I have a 2002 kia sportage 4X4 and up unit this last year have had pretty good luck with it.

    However it is now an endless money pit. My latest problem is the smell of unburnt gas flooding the :sick: interior of the car when it is started. The smell of gas is so strong that you can smell it out side the vehicle as you walk up to it. I have to let it warm up as I live in Alaska. I took it in and the mechanic found that the exhust manifold was SPLIT in two...about to fall apart, he fixed that and thought he had fixed the problem..but no such luck. I had it in the shop all last week and they were able to duplicate the problem, but after 5 days could not really find out where the fumes were coming from and why they were being brought in the the cab of the vehicle. So they changed the O rings on the fuel injector..but that is not the problem either.

    Does anyone have any ideas..I am about to go broke on this one. And am very worried about the safty issues of raw gas fumes flooding the interior of the vehicle.

    Also with what I have gone thru with this car in the last year...I will never buy a Kia. I have changed the alternator, timing belt, fan, water pump, had the 4x4 fixed (only to be told I needed to spend the money to put manual locking hubs as the repair will not last, as the vacume locking 4x4 doesn't work on these vehicles) exhust manifold replaced
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    A common problem with a neat solution:
    Read THIS

    I called my mechanic as soon as I read your posting today, and they are going to look at the problem tomorrow...I have my fingers crossed.

    He had decided that it wasn't the O rings on the fuel injectors...but the fuel injectors and has ordered them and was going to replace them. Hopefully you have supplied me with the real solution.

    Thank you again :)
  • Well I got it fixed. I figured out how to get the door panel off and found that the power window regulator/motor had to be replaced. The part was a little pricey, but under 100 dollars. Very easy to fix once I found somewhere to order the part. I just wanted to put this up just in case anyone else has there window fall in and wants to know what might of happened.
  • Are the front hubs the same in the 2001 and 2002. WARN makes manual locking hubs but they claim they only work up to 2001. My dealer was no help they claim that most of the part numbers are the same and are grouped in the same book. I don't want to buy them and find out they wont work.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    I own a 2000, but all posts in all Sportage forums never mentioned any difference and I'm convinced they are the same. But I'll doublecheck and come back.
    EDIT: I checked with and the c.v. half shafts are the same, hence same size and spline count, hence, hubs are the same.
    Notice warn also makes cam type #61918 automechanical that work very well for general use. For severe off-road abuse, I think the manual warn# 60247 will endure more.
    Mine has the automechanical.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    This from "Callappoyas" at 4x4Wire:
    I own a 2002. Hub are same. everything is same as the 2001. We have an added foot rest for driver; is all that's different.
    Many after-markets list only up to the 2001 year.
  • I purchased a 2001 kia sportage abot two years ago. The nightmare begins. The day I purchased it I had to bring it back because the trans line started leaking. The dealed replaced it, about a week later the transmission started slipping. I brought it to the local kia dealer hoping they might be able to solve this problem. they replace the timing belt, fuel tank, fuel pump, trans computer, engine computer, wiring harnesses for engine and transmission. cleaned all grounds, changed fluids, and a few other items. the kia is in worse operating condition now than it was when i brought it to them. they have washed their hands of it. any suggestions as to what may be the problem? It slips sometimes from a complete stop to go, also drops out of gear sparatically, as well it slows down when the kick down enguages. Does this vehicle have a valve body in the transmission? might a spring be broken internally? I can not locate a manual for this transmission to read on it. Please help?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Just register
    It is free and you have access to the authentic kia SHOP manuals, as well as diagrams, OBD codes....etc
    ONce registered, click SHOP , Choose your model as Sportage(AL), not (KM), then year 2001...,then click SHOP again and browse through the menu. by the way they list "transaxle" but they mean transmission.
  • there is a 4-5 inch fuel return hose coming off the fuel rail. i have personally replaced over 50 of these for your same concern. usually most technicians do not see the fuel leak because it is slight and it evaporates fast. it is also close to the cold air intake for the heater(cowl) making the fuel smell inside the vehicle strong. the hose when removed will be dryrotted and hard. the hose costs under 10 dollars and a half hour to an hour labor is needed. it comes directly off the fuel pressure regulator
  • I recently have had serious problems with my '01 Kia Sportage. My check engine light comes on for a while and goes off for a day or so, the hold light is blinking at me and the car runs terrible. I took it to the dealer and they suggested that 2 of my coils are going bad along with several other problems (codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P1115 whatever those are). I had most of the major problems repaired by a mechanic (H2o pump, timing belt, plugs, cooling fan assembly, fuel filter), but my funds have run out and I'm afraid I'm going to have to address the coils and maybe need to change the trans fluid in order to get the "hold" light to stop flashing at me. I'm thinking the coils are what are causing it to idle terribly and why it is giving me so much trouble cranking (turning over but not starting, sounds like its struggling to fire).
    Any suggestion/direction to fixing these issues would be greatly appreciated.
  • My 2000 Kia Sportage has an ammonia smell coming through the vents. We took it to a mechanic who cleaned out the windshield washer line and that did not fix it. They could still smell it after that and was not sure what it is. If you had this, please let me know. Any help is very much appreciated.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    OK 300 is firing problem, 302, 303 indicates firing problem is on cylinders 2 and 3, so that is relevant of ONE of the 2 coils or ignition cable....a common problem.
    P1115 is colant temperature problem, most probably a wiring /contat problem...anyway if car does not overheat this is not en emergency.
    Are you able to remove the intake duct then plastic cover to access coils? I'll post instructions and photos.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Well ....ammonia...?!?...but there two common smell intrusions with this model: one is gas...see posts just 3 or 4 positions ahead of this one, the other is coolant smell from blown heater core..all too common....and I can provide the instructions for that change....very very different from the manufacturer's handbook, and much much less expensive.
    So.....try to pin point the exact nature of the smell.
    Whe does that happen? just after starting? or once warmed up, or during acceleration or hill climbing....
  • Thanks for the quick reply. The smell happens pretty much while the car is warming up or is warmed up and the gas peddle is pushed down to accelerate. Hope that makes sense.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    "The smell happens pretty much while ..the gas peddle is pushed down to accelerate"
    This makes me think of something I experience with my well as my Pontiac Transport, kind of "acrid" smell, in conditions of advanced throttle position like going up a long hill..but I never made a positive identification: seems like "hot metal" smell...
    may be some stray exhaust, but I have no "real" leak in the system....
  • I'm sure I can remove the intake duct and cover. I haven't tried yet, but hopefully it shouldn't be too tough. I plan on at least replacing the coils in a couple of days when I actually get a day off of work. Your help with instructions so I dont mess it up is greatly appreciated. Any ideas on why the hold light would be flashing?
  • this relates to the hold light and the p1115 coolant temp signal. most generally the hold light is flashing because of a code or malfunction being recognized by the trans control module. usually it is no coolant temp signal to the tcm also code in ecm for no temp signal (ecm engine control module). i usually find poor pin contact on the temp sensor. it is located on the front of the engine just in front of the timing cover(upper). there is a housing that the upper radiator hose connects to on the drivers side of this is a connector remove the connector and look into it you will probably see wide gaps to correct you need to remove each female pin and retighten or go to kia and buy new connector end and splice in using soldier and heat shrink. no fluid change will ever fix a light.
  • My Sport has a buzzing coming from under the hood when the ignition is off. It is coming from the fuse box, when opened and I take the fuel inj fuse out, it stops. The owners man shows this is EGI main that is buzzing. What is this? do I need to replace it? how?
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    For all to see, this is
    power distribution.
    ignition switch.
    relay control.
    (all these based on sportage 2000)
    What keeps the relay ON ..or tries to, is the ECM..... The relay is always ON on the HOT side, and energised on the ground side from the ECM.... I suspect it receives the command from the ECM at KEY ON..... so that opens a lot of options: ignition switch, faulty driver in the ECM, ....may be internal partial short within the relay..., salt intrusion, . all questions open at this time....

    To avoid confusion, please state model year ?
  • Got both the coils and wires changed and cleaned everything I could. No change unfortunately. I did notice some oil on the spark plugs. The valve cover gasket seems to be leaking (not bad, but indeed leaking). oil levels are okay, so it isnt a big leak apparantly. I'll attack the valve cover next, along with the suggestion of cleaning/ replacing the temp sensor. At this point, I'm just hoping to fix it well enough to get a decent selling price for the car.. heck the family is growing, we need a bigger vehicle anyway LoL.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    " change unfortunately.."...meaning you still have codes 300,302,303...+ the car runs terrible...?
  • No change as in, still struggles to start, idles rough and has "check engine light" coming on as well as the "hold" light flashing. The lights come and go. They might be on this morning, but off by the time I get home, or vice versa. Seems to be pretty random as to when the lights show up. Havent had the codes checked since changing the coils/wires yet. Overall it runs okay (not great but okay) when its moving, but startup is still a struggle and idling is rough.
  • lmp4lmp4 Posts: 188
    Hard starting and rough idle are often reported as corrected by cleaning the Idle Air Control valve
    Just remove the 2 screws and connector and rinse in carb cleaner or gas. ALmost no cost and it clears this option.
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