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Hence, to test them as you say, your engine must be running!
They are actuated by vacuum that comes through an electrically operated valve on left hand fender. THis valve comes on once the transfer case lever is fully moved to the 4wd position. At that time, solenoid is energized and vacuum from engine manifold is applied to the back of the hub piston (you must see hoses at the back of wheel bearing) and atmospheric pressure from the front (see vents on the hub) forces the piston in against the spring then engages "sprockets".
THis system works beautifully when it works because it allows to engage "on the fly" because at the time the switch is activated, the shafts are already fully engaged and rotating at same speed as wheels, hence they engage without any danger of grinding. Similarly, when opting out of 4wd, hubs are released and you are driving fully with free wheeling front wheels .
However, this system IS fragile and any leak in bearing seals and hoses or flawed operation of the vacuum solenoid will let you without 4WD and as most owners at this time having second hand SPortages, you had no control on the previous owner maintenance program..... so as most original series Sportage owners, you might end up converting to manual hubs or mechanical (cam activated) auto hubs. THis is another story, but some info here:
link title
I have a 2000 Kia Sportage. This morning after a 5 minute stop, I got back in the car and turned the heater on and its started making a loud whirling noise, sounded like something near the radiator? I have 107K on the vehicle. Any thoughts or suggestions, theres 4 inches of snow outside right now!!
If this is stricly related to heater blower operation, it can be some stray leaves that got in a few weeks or months ago.
However after a 5 minute stop , it is possible there was enough heat in the engine compartment to raise the A/C regrigerant pressure enough that it can be triggered ON if your heater was on DEF or mix DEF/FLOOR position...because these positions automatically turn the A/C on to help dehumidify the air and clear fog....and when a/c turns on, the electric cooling fan near the radiator turns ON too...and some ice debris might have accumulated in this area.......hence the noise.
In the cold, normally, a/c will not kick in because refrigerant pressure is too low and the lo pressure switch inhibits its operation.
By the way, on mine, I have pulled the heater controls out and removed the little switch inside that turns the A/C on without my consentment. I can use the normal a/c button when I want to. ( ON my other car, this function is computer control...so I would have to endure..but then, in winter, I disconnect the pressure switch to be sure a/c never operates).
Slipping alternator belt is a frequently reported though not fully explained problem, as it usually defies tightening as a solution, anyway, open hood and check for that when it happens.
Not applicable here, but I mention it to avoid this kind of search, is that when turning to cold weather, a coolant too lean with antifreeze could turn into ice and block water pump and make the pump belt slip: not applicable with this car cause the pump is driven by the timing belt with cogs...and it would rather break the pump impeller itself....which could nevertheless cause overheating, but very improbable.
PLease mention where you live...it is winter here, and ice on the exhaust pipe and catalyst could vaporize after a few minutes.....
An oil leak ending up on the exhaust piping will generate lots of smoke but the smell will reveal its nature....but no "hiss" involved....
Blocked catalytic have been reported with that kind of symptoms....but it is accompanied by degraded performance and is not on a sudden...
So...may be a few more details will help..like was the smoke "up by the window" inside or outside the car? :confuse:
By the way, is the Check Engine Light ON ?
the other option, and I hope it is not the case, is a blown head gasket or craked block due to freezing, but the first explanation is enough to explain your case.. FIrst make sure the whole car temperature runs above freezing point before anything else, test coolant and add antifreeze .
Top large hose passenger side goes to thermostat (Viewed from top in drawing below)
Bottom large hose driver side returns to engine (Viewed from under in drawing below)
if this image link dead use this one
hoses
I will check in my car tomorrow......too cold to-nite.....
Again I reallly appreciate your info. I have looked in all sorts of books and none of them mention the vacuum free wheeling hubs. They are always refered to as free wheeling hubs and never illustrate how they work.
warn manual hubs: 60247
warn auto hubs: 61918 (comes as a complete kit as illustrated in instruction sheet) check this link
ANd yes, your vacuum type can be locked by dissassembling the hubs and simply moving the spring on the opposite side of the piston. THis will keep all the shafts turning full time, hence a little more drag, and you will have actual 4 or 2 wheel drive with the transfer case shifter.
-check engine light popped on
-oil dripping from under the car
puzzling....!??...these look like three unrelated events ..
I understand it is the check engine light that popped on, not the oil pressure light..right?
Can you have the code read?
Did you try restarting tha car and how does it behave?
I also understand you have no Check Engine Light ON....as this is a '95, it is probably OBD1 and there is a way to flash the codes, if any...but of course, OBD1 has limited capabilities......
NOne of the options below is clearly defined by your description, but:
Ever considered catalytic blockage? This has been linked to similar symptoms in several occasions: it acts mostly when trying to accelerate at wide throttle opening as there is an added exhaust volume to handle..then at steady road speed, the problem seems to be gone..
What is mileage of engine and was timing belt changed before? I think the SOHC is less prone than the DOHC to belt failure/slippage, but it has limits too and I'd go for this check , just to be sure nothing is left in the unknown.
Another possibility - rare but verified on another car - would be a failed or shorted temperature sensor that then indicates a warmer temperature: this would lean the mixture, cause knocking, and then the knock sensor would retard timing, all that would cause symptoms that could match your description. However, such a failure would make starting rather difficult in the cold, so I'd rather dismiss this cue, but....just for the record....
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
As for checking the codes i am not sure how to do that on the kia i am used to having a honda where i am able to use a paper clip..
And the oil light is still not on, that i do not understand myself. However the check engine light is on and that puzzles me as well..
As long as there is enough oil to build some pressure, the oil light will not pop ON.
Reading the codes requires a scanner...
Detailed timing belt change and timing
instructions
Belt0
Belt2
Belt4
non-running. The T belt had apparently jumped causing it to get out of time so #4 piston hit the head, broke one valve off, which in turn beat the bottom of the head to pieces, busted the piston, but didn't hurt the cylinder yet the belt was NOT broken. The previous owner disassembled the motor, saw the problems, and threw the parts in the rear with the timing belt so I know it wasn't broken. I replaced the piston/head/belt/idler @ 109k and all was well. Roughly 3k after getting it running the hestitation started. Besides the things I've already checked/tried, I also went back over the valves but all are correct and while I can't recall the number, I also did a vacuum check and it was good/steady. It runs great down the road as long as your running steady. And though that was a good thought, it has never knocked once. Been a while since I've fooled with an OBD1 but like OBD2, if it detects a problem doesn't the check engine light come on? This one's light isn't on and the bulb is good. I know u retrieve the codes differently but in the sense of the light they function the same if memory serves. Right?
diagram
THis relay is turned ON by the computer.
THe ECU is fed all the time with 12v and a low voltage can have weird effects.Have the battery fully recharged before anything else.
Obviously, you seem to have problem with fuel metering.....and a variety of possible factors has been thrown out. But other factors are not monitored....like the idle air control valve that several owners have blamed on kind of similar occurences. Have you noticed other symptoms or annoyances that could reveal the real culprit ? Please list the actual parts that were replaced.
As for problems my sportage has never backfired sputtered ran sluggish, lost any rpms, burned excessive oil, used ridiculous amounts of gas. I feel it runs just as well as the first day I had purchased the car. I hope this answers some of your questions, if not I will try again. Thx.
"In order to provide the best possible combination of drivability, fuel economy and emission control, the ECM uses a closed loop air/fuel metering system. The ECM monitors the HO2S signal voltage and adjusts fuel delivery based it in closed loop fuel control. Changes in fuel delivery will be indicated by the long-term and the short-term fuel trim values. The ideal fuel trim value is around 0%. The ECM will add fuel when the HO2S signal is indicating a lean condition. Additional fuel is indicated by fuel trim values that are above 0%. The ECM will reduce fuel when the HO2S signal is indicating a rich condition. Reduction in fuel is indicated by fuel trim values that are below 0%. The DTC relevant to fuel trim will be set when the amount reaches excessive levels because of a lean or rich condition.
The ECM sets DTC P0171 If ECM detects exhaust emissions reach an excessively lean level due to a lean condition."
NOw since all the "probable" (my version is "possible" ) causes have been dealed with, too lean means once computer has reached the limits, it is still too lean. My first "real" test would be for fuel pressure. I suspect fuel pressure might be low, either pump failure, clogged fuel filter, or failed pressure regulator. Have a pressure test at fuel rail to make or bust this option before searching for anything else; should be 42-45 psi
My second question is about O2 sensors: there are 2: one before the catalytic, one after. it seems the two were replaced, right, otherwise I'd verify that.
By hte way this is not the first time this oddity occurs...but the issue was not solved or the solution not reported...
Anyway, if this "buzz" continues, I'd make sure there are no debris or sand or salt or moisture that have invaded the bottom of this fuse/relay box.
Thanks
:sick:
If it does not cure the problem, check hoses on top of fuel tank by opening the cover (4 screws) under right rear seat.
In any case, reading the codes would help. Autozone does it for free, I'm told.
My interpretation: some moisture had found a way somewhere and has finally dried off. Then..probably..it might come again.