Chrysler Sebring Electrical Problems
Shorts, flashing lights, fuses -- discuss these and other electrical issues with your Sebring.
See Also
Using Edmunds To Diagnose Car Problems
See Also
Using Edmunds To Diagnose Car Problems
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Oldengineer
I eventually got the car running with the old module and new filter. Now I suspect electrical wiring connections may have been the problem. The conv top will not go down, the windows will not go up or down. Wait a day or two and they may work. Anyone else had this problem.
Please advise. I am going to again clean the terminals on the battery and battery connections under the hood. I have had the back seat out when replacing the fuel pump and checked the connections and they were good (hot) at that time.
BTW: Chrysler is no longer a member of the Big 3. Once it was sold to MB it's longer a US company. Don't kid yourselves. Only GM and Ford are the Big 2 and at the rate they are going they'll be toast or sold soon enough. Criminal what greedy and incompetent management and unions did to the US auto industry.
Limited convertible. Early 2005, dealer replaced the multi-function switch on the steering column. This fixed the problem.
However, just last night the instrument cluster went dark
again. This morning it was lit up fine. Looks like it's time to see the dealer again for another muti-function switch replacement. Looks like Daimler Chrysler switch is
designed for short life.
-going back to the shop again
I recently got my tie-rod ends replaced and when I got the car back the stereo was acting up. Sometimes when I touch the volume knob or hit other stereo buttons the digital display flashes on and off a couple times and doesnt work when any buttons are pushed. The clock goes to 12:00 and the radio goes to lowest possible setting (~530 for am ~87.9 for fm). Sometimes the digital display stay on permanently even after the car is turned off, along with the tiny lights on the equalizer sliders, and the lights on the buttons of my 4-disc cd changer.
After leaving the car off for a couple days it needs to be jumped. Sometimes the stereo works again.
I figured the stereo has been draining the battery and is probably the source of the problem, but went to Sears Automotive department to get my battery/tested replaced since Ive had to jump the car 4 or 5 times in the last month, and it's starting to get cold.
When they opened the hood they said they smelled "electrical burning" and refused to work on it, telling me that I needed to take the car to somebody that specializes in electronics.
I'm very financially restricted at the moment, and cant really afford to get every last thing looked at/fixed (dealer service prices are ridiculous).
Any response or advice with my problem would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
The crusie control and the horn stopped working and the airbag light came on all at the same time. At that very instance there was a cracking and cruching in the sterring wheel area, not the column.
Any ideas?
(I have had the clock spring replaced before be cause the airbag light was on.)
heater/ac knob(choice of ac/heat/floor/vent etc.) I removed the plastic shroud containing the control knobs and with the
heat and lights on- wiggled this connector to find with a little bit of upward pressure, the heat would return to
normal operation. I broke a piece of toothpick to wedge the
connector to make proper contact in its assembly and the heat has been fine( about a month). I'll replace the assembly when I can but I believe that flimsy AC/Heat dial
connector is the culprit. The damage to the connector may be the result of prior repairs in which the assembly has been disconnected for any reason.
The stereo functions for varying lengths of time until
it heats up or another function is actuated ( volume,turn signal, it varies). The sound and radio display disappears and the 3 band equalizer LCD's continually blink. Even after turning the key off, the radio still pulls power from
the battery and continues to flash. I replaced the radio(found on internet) and after 2- 3hrs of driving/heating up; the problems returned. Other have stated the same problems, but to this date I have not seen any answer posted.
If anyone has info please post it. thanks.
SECONDLY- THE RADIO PROBLEM(BLINKING EQ BUTTONS AND NO SOUND & BATTERY DRAIN) I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM BUT TO STOP THE BATTERY DRAIN YOU CAN REMOVE THE GREY CONNECTOR FROM THE BACK OF THE RADIO UNTIL SOMEONE FINDS OUT IF ITS THE RADIO OR SOMETHING ELSE. I HAVE JUST ORDERED MY SECOND REPLACEMENT RADIO IN CASE THE FIRST REPLACEMENT WAS ALSO A DEFECTIVE UNIT (BOUGHT ON THE NET). TO REMOVE THE RADIO YOU USE A FLAT BLADE SCREWDRIVER TO PRY/POP THE WOOD GRAIN OR PLASTIC COVER(THE HEATER CONTROLS REMAIN ON THE COVER) OFF(3 CLIPS ON EACH SIDE). DISCONNECT THE 2 HEATER CONNECTORS CAREFULLY(DELICATE)AND REMOVE COVER. RADIO IS HELD IN WITH JUST 4 SCREWS - REMOVE AND PULL RADIO OUT TO DISCONNECT THE GREY CONNECTOR ON THE BACK.(TO STOP BAT DRAIN.) LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES- BVCSURF!
Any suggestions before I buy an aftermarket stereo system? Does anyone think I should buy a used one? Do they sell used ones / cheap ones online?
I called to make an apt, but cancelled when it stopped doing it, but then it did it again today. HELP. I'm a little pissed cause I'm not sure if this falls under the 3 yr 30,000 miles. I don't want to pay a mint for it. Although I think it's terrible for new cars to do this. Let me know if you hear anything.
which arrived within 7-10 days and with delivery the price was $152 bucks. I installed it and have been enjoying trouble free stereo since. It has only been 3 weeks but I have not experienced any of the past symptoms that previously drove me crazy. I purposely left the heater on high/top vents to heat up the unit while driving multiple hours to see if these units would suffer heat damage and go bad. So far so good. I'll post again after a couple of months of use to let you know the dependability . BVCSURF!
2001 CHRYSLER SEBRING LXI CONV.
So, my car is at the chrysler garage now. They haven't called me yet, so I have no clue what they've found. All I know is that progressively mine was getting worse. I feel like an idiot when it goes off like that. I was starting to feel like I couldn't park it anywhere. I knew my neighbors were starting to not like it, and how embarrasing to have it go off while entering or leaving the parkinglot at work! I'll let you know what my garage does to fix it. All I can say is that it better be included in our 3yr 36000 warranty. Cause a 06, and a 05 should not be doing this. BTW, what color is your sebring? Mine's white with a black top. I know that wouldn't probably have anything to do with it, just curious ha ha ha
I don't even lock the car anymore...and the thing still goes off as soon as I open the door!
It was 9 degrees here in Long Island, NY this morning, so I went out about 6:30 to warm up the car. Guess what? Yeah, the horn went nuts again, for about 30 seconds or so (feels like an hour when the neighbors start looking out the windows) and nothing would stop it. Then, as I drove it down the block 15 minutes later, it beeped for about 10 seconds at various times. Other drivers think I'm being a wise guy. Be interested to know what they find. Oh, as to the color: It's burgundy red with a black top. I absolutely love it...or did until now. Keep me informed. Thanks.
Anyway, they replaced the same thing on my car as yours (the horn pad/airbag assembly). Of course, they didn't have a black one in stock so I have a tan one on there temporarily. It didn't happen this morning when they opened the door, but they had kept the car indoors in the heated shop overnight! I left it there and told them to lock it up outside and I'd pick it up tonight after 7:00 (this way it will have been out in the cold for about 11 hours). I hope this is the answer. If it happens when I go to pick it up tonight I'll just leave it there again.
You buy a newer car so you don't have any problems, right? Oh, well...as long as the warranty covers it and they try to make it right I can't really complain, I guess. I'll keep you posted. Thanks. Hope yours is fixed, too.
All lightbulbs in panel work fine.
All fuses have been checked and none open.
I believe I have narrowed down problem to a module that is attached to back of actual instrument panel (Not the Circuit board)
Anyone know what this module is called (no printing visible on module although there might be on the underside as I have not taken it off panel) and where one might be able to purchase one besides auto salvage facilities???
Pulling the fuse (under the hood) for the brake lights stops the flashing. This indicates a short in the wiring between the radio and brake lights. DO NOT drive with the fuse out, you will have no brake lights. I am trying to track it down more.
This appears to be a common problem. If anyone has additional information please post it.
It only happens after driving the car about 30 - 45 mins. Then when I go to change the volume, it happens! The stereo system looks like it's dying with the LEDs fading and shutting off, then they come back on.
What I do is turn the stereo system off immediately and leave it turned off. It blinks for about a minute and then the clock comes on at 12:00. When I shut the car off and wait some time, I turn my car back on and it's fine. The only this is that the clock is now wrong and I keep having to set it to the correct time.
Sometimes though, it's not such an easy solution. The radio will stay on and you will hear what sounds like the CD motor turning and it will stay on even after turning the car off. The only way around this is to take the stereo system out, unplug the connector from the stereo, wait some time, and then plug it back in.
It seems like it's overheating because it only happens after driving about 30 - 45 mins.
The flashing stops when I remove the brake light fuse (from under the hood) - just like it did for rm2001.
I would be extremely interested to hear if anyone found a solution to this.
My daughter has a 2002 Sebring coupe that on start-up the hazard light start flashing until the car in warm or the head lights are turned on. I can hear a relay clicking but i can not located it. This started 6-months ago them stopped. Now it has returned....does anyone have any ideas?
Also the blower only works on high; I would have thought that it was the switch but with all of the electrical issues posted here I am now not so sure. Any advice would be appreciated. thanks
"Also the blower only works on high; I would have thought that it was the switch but with all of the electrical issues posted here I am now not so sure. Any advice would be appreciated."
You will need to replace the resistor pack. This is a common issue with the Sebring.
DId you ever get any other solutions, other than replacing the radio? ">
The car has had issues with the air bag light coming on/off over the last several months...could this be related? this has been fixed several times and never lasts....
Need to repair...Thanks!
Thank You, Hal
Does anyone know if there are supposed to be lights for these buttons? (cruise on, set, cancel, resume) Nothing on steering wheel lights up.