Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chrysler Sebring Electrical Problems

135

Comments

  • A few months ago I had the same thing with the horn, cruise control and air bag. My mechanic had a part for it in 3 days. He replaced something called the coil spring. I think it may have cost about $180 to fix.

    At this same time the car radio had started only working on occastion. Within a month or two I started having the rest of the electrical problems.
  • css53css53 Posts: 4
    Having the same problem? what did you find? to fix this?
  • css53 check out message #104 above from 2001 Sebring, it is all there. I have not got mine fixed yet but it will be soon.
  • Help! 1998 Sebring Convertible
    Battery less than two years old and yet engine will not turn over or top will not operate nor radio. Great lights and other signals. Replaced fuse--no problems for about thirty miles. Now new fuses continue to blow and car will no longer start. Anybody else have this problem? Would appreciate any help
    thanks, Sunny
  • Welllllll, I live in Florida and it's still in the 90's so I don't think the cold has a bunch to do with it but would LOVE to know what does. Fuse blows now just moments after install and I can't start the damn thing or raise the top or have any radio! Only have 63,000 miles on car and battery is less than 2 years old. Suggestions? Please don't tell me to go NORTH! (LOL)
    Sunny
  • Jeremy,
    Sounds as though we have/hopefully had the same problem. My new fuses blow now almost immediately afer I put them in. What did you finally do to resolve the continued no start problem. Battery less than 2 years, 63,000 miles full lights etc but no start, radio or top will not operate. Now even the new fuses don't seem to do any good. Please help..
    Thanks Sunny
  • bk42bk42 Posts: 1
    99 sebring convertible; used this year. issues; dead battery, replaced. altanator replaced. Key cylinder replaced. Mechanic said it Might be a computer, because the voltage regulator is in the computer on this vehicle. I took the car to another mechanic. He was able to diagnos the problem! 1st mechanic installed the key cylinder upsidedown! when u turned the key the contacts did not line up. Reinstalled the cylender correctly and all of the electrical problems were solved! Yeah, the car runs like a dream. Love it , so far. Mechanic said, I dont know who worked on your car, but Don't go back. He f------up a basic installation. I don't know if this is fact but, I now have reason to believe that the 1st mech. was bilkin g me.
  • I have the some problem - interior lights stay on. How did you solve the problem?
    Please help.
  • I have a similar problem. One person wrote in about the white connector on the back of the heat/AC controls. I examined mine, and found a weak solder connection. I re-soldered the 8 connections, which improved the "jiggle the wires" problem. As for the headlights, I've experimented and found that the problem gets worse depending on how bright you have your dashboard lights set to when the headlights are on. Also, the heat/AC problem does not occur if I flash the highbeams, or even hold them on while driving. All of this seems to point to a problem in the multifunction switch itself. This is a large unit that connects both the headlight/turn signal stalk on the left and the windshield wiper stalk on the right. The part costs about $45 at Rock Auto, so I am going to try replacing it. The other possibility is a bad body control module (BCM), which costs about $600 and has to be reset by the dealership to work with your ignition key. Here's hoping the multifunction switch fixes the problem.
  • :confuse: I have a 2004 chrysler sebring and recently I connected a new deck but just a minute ago while I was driving the whole dash electrical system went out. My gauges stopped working and my in dash lights as well. Can somebody please let me know if you have any solutions? :confuse:
  • I have a 2001 sebring conv with intermittent light in instrument cluster. I removed the cluster and re soldered areas dealing with illumination. I found the potted module on the rear of the circuit board and I think it is a power supply for the electroluminescent panel that lights up as "speedo and gauge illumination" I believe this module is not turning on when 12 volts is applied, or the panel it powers is bad. I would bet on the potted module. I do not think you can buy it, and sincce its potted in epoxy it is not repairable. How did you end up fixing it.
    Bob
  • Recently replaced blower resistor in Sebring. I then noticed after putting everything back together that the dome light stayed on. I played with the dimmer switch which has the dome light control and could not get the dome light to shut off until I dimmed everything down to nothing.

    I believe the problem is unrelated to the resistor since I have noticed the past couple of days it has been hard to start the car as if the battery was drained. I have also had to do some creative door locking with the keyless remote until the light would turn off. Any thoughts.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Just posting about the two issues I've had with my 2008 Sebring Touring 6 cyl, bought last summer with 16K miles.

    1) Had to replace the speed control knob for the a/c / heater fan. It would stop working on just the high speed setting. Usually not a big deal except for hot summer days here in Florida.

    2) Just replaced the driver's side door latch assembly. Hitting the power lock switch on the door or using the FOB key would not open it.

    Having two issues like this so early in the vehicle's life, I'd say I'm quite disappointed in the car.
  • aleesealeese Posts: 1
    My car shot off while i was driving it. It acted as if i was running out of gas and then shut off. i've been unable to start it since. i had a mobile mechanic look at it and he's changed the spark plugs and the fule pump & fuel pump relay and the car is still not running. The original error was #352 (Ignition Coil... Primary/Secondary circuit malfunction) Has anyone had this problem... is it easily resolved? I think it may be an electrical problem.

    Please email me if you have an answer or a clue as to what i'm talking about: [email protected]
  • Good afternoon; 1 of my brake lights was out, I replace it and it works now. Recently my tail lights are not working do anyone has any info what could be causing this problem.
  • It's not your bulb, it's the ground to the bulb !
  • So are you saying that you replaced the light, and the one worked, and now both don't work? I would definitely say it could be a fuse, so check your fuse box first and see if you have blown one. If so then:

    1. It was a fluke, ignore it, or.
    2. You have a wiring problem and it needs to be diagnosed.

    If it's not the fuse, then you definitely have an electrical problem. What year is your vehicle?
  • I recently purchased a 2007 Sebring. I noticed the other day that the analog clock, which had been in sync with the digital clock, was now off by a few minutes. After resetting it, I later noticed that it was again off; but now by hours.

    Is the fix as simple as changing a battery or am I looking at bigger problem?

    Thanks in advance for your response!
  • Hey everyone - Sebring 2000 JXi conv. For a LONG time now, my Indiglo dash lighting has not functioned. I gave up years ago trying to figure out what went wrong, but am now just starting to think about attempting a repair. I've done the obvious fuse check, and all gauges function normally. It's just the lights themselves - they dont turn on. And this is ONLY for the dash - all other interior lights work fine.

    if it helps, I recall several weeks before the lights went out, they kind of flickered a bit. Not on & off, but moreso flickering between 'dim and bright'. That tells me there was a loose connection somewhere that finally gave way. I had the dash pulled put and they confirmed the lights DO work under alternative power sources. So the gauges are fine. It's something going TO the gauges that is causing the problem.

    I read somewhere about a Body Control Module possibly being the culprit. I think the BCM is fine because everything else in the car works as it should. BUT I would like to locate it as a means of troubleshooting, yet I have no idea where it is.

    So my questions: where is the BCM, and what suggestions do you guys have for trying to get these lights working again? THANKS EVERYONE! Joe
  • garygtagarygta Posts: 1
    Went to pass a semi truck, lights on dash went bright, headlights(already on) went bright, abs light came on, gauges died, trans started reving. Pulled over turned off. turned on everything worked fine. Five miles down the highway did it again, trans burned up. Trans has been rebuilt is fine. Can repete problem just by step semi hard on gas. Now reg headlights stopped working. Brights did work for a few day. They went Very bright, dash lights went haywire abs light went on. No fuses are blowned . Mechanic thinks it is multifunction switch, I think it could be something else, What?
  • rocknrogrocknrog Posts: 1
    :mad:sick: I have 99 sebring and the dash keeps going in and out,nobody can figure out why,any reply would be great.I even called chrysler about it cause someone has to know why but they would not help.I had them put this issue on watch cause there are so many problems with this car and its electrical systems as i have found out in the last couple of weeks. people need to call chrysler directly and make complaints cause they told me they can't do anything unless people call and make complaints.Something needs to be done about this or they will just end up getting away with it. we deserve better.please call & make a complaint and also write about it.here is chryslers #800-247-9753.There are soooo many problems with these cars and i know i'm tired of paying big money to high priced dealers to not get it fixed.
  • I too am looking for a solution. I have a quote of $1400 just to look at it and I hear it takes a long time to try to find the problem. They wanted to replace the module which clearly works, but sporatic. My dash which is the odometer, gas gauge and RPMs do not work at all from December to April 1st in the cold weather. It's been back on since it's been 65-80 degrees again. Today I just drove into rain and it went off again. It is so frustrating. Looking for solutions or a recommendation of someone in New Mexico who has done this before.
  • poots3poots3 Posts: 1
    My 2004 Sebring gauge panel wont work!!!! the car turns on and the radio works but my gauges are dead!!!! Its not the fuse because I checked them all and they are fine. If anyone has any ideas what it might be please help!!!!!!
  • flash87flash87 Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Sebring Convertible and a few months ago the dash lights started going on/off intermittently. The dealer told me that, based on an error code, I needed a new BCM (Body Control Module) which cost me about $800. It did not solve the problem. They then told me that they got another error code and that I needed a Multifunction Switch which cost me $200 more. They said they couldn't tell that the Multifunction Switch was bad until the BCM was replaced, and they they were both bad. Does anyone know if it is true that you wouldn't get the Multifunction Switch error code if the BCM was bad?
  • hate to be the bearer of bad news but after having 3 sebring convertables. iv'e found out the hard way. 2 of them have already had the problem and i'm waiting for the 3rd. to go. the distributors have a limited life span. one of mine was on a recall but it quit 13yrs. and 187,000 after the notice was put out. your problem sounds just like my 2 it's intermitten at first then it shuts down at times but will start when it is ready to. it leads you to believe a bad fuel flow but it's all elect. avg. fix cost 400-$500 at the garage.
  • aleeeeaaaaleeeeaaa Posts: 2
    I have a 98 sebring coup lxi. The headlight dims work but the brights don'[t come on. Any suggestions on what i should check out. Thanks
  • dmrolanddmroland Posts: 1
    My dash lights just went out. I have no other electrical problems and we have changed the fuses. Can you help me. Is there a way to change the lamp or might it be something else.
  • flash87flash87 Posts: 2
    Dawn,
    It seems many people have had this problem with the dash lights. In my case, I spent about $1000 at a Chrysler dealer (South Bay, Torrance, CA) during several visits only to find that the parts they replaced never fixed the problem. I have written to them and asked for a refund and if I don't get it by end of this week I will be taking them to court. Good luck getting your problem fixed. Hope you get better service than I did.
  • smokeydogsmokeydog Posts: 1
    i have a 2006 sebring 2.7 v6 81000 miles, . i have a major car audio system in it. i am having two problems 1 major and one minor. the major problem is that ive lost .4 tenths of a volt. now i know this may not seem to be something to be worried about but i am. about 2 months ago on a warmer day after winter, i had the a/c on high and was play my system pretty loud.and the voltage dropped down to 12.98v (i have voltmeters in my car) turned off the radio and the voltage went up too 13.68 for a little bit, and then started to climb back up too 14.21. for the 10 months before this happened i have not changed a thing. my voltage read out used to be 14.54at idle, and drop to 13.97 the lowest. i changed out the front batt and got a brand new one. (i have 4 other big deep cycle batts in the rear of the car.) after replacing the front batt there was no change in the volt read out. was also experiencing a major voltage drop. i figured that it was the alternator that was on its way out, i've replaced the alt with a H.O alt. still no change in the voltage at idle. currently my volts read out at idle is 14.16 for the most part. if i am parked sitting still with nothing on and the voltage will jump around 14.10-14.21-14.16-14.26-14.10. never steady like before my problem started. when i push the gas down, if i floor it then let right off it the voltage will go from 14.16 to 14.39-14.43 then drop to 14,25 and then right to 13.98 then back up to 14.18 or so
    i have checked every batt by there selves. all sit at 12.82. anyone have any ideas please this is driving me crazy and stressing me out where i almost have no more hair.
    my other problem is sometimes the PRND3L and the mileage part of the gauges will dim out usually after i use a blinker. if i move the blinker high beam light control it will come right back, when it does this my inside lights don't work either
  • bmwx5guybmwx5guy Posts: 6
    I think it is actually the "electroluminescent transformer module". I need one too for a 1999 JXi Limited Convertible. Any luck with yours?
  • Oh boy...not looking good for me after seeing all the Chrysler electrical problems. Well my car drives fine the only bad part is the locks keep locking and the door chime keeps going off while Im driving. I hear about alot of "haunted" chryslers...guess I have one too. Any suggestions are very appreciated! :cry:
  • I have a 2001 Sebring Convt. driving down the road a few days ago and parked and tried to get top up and windows up nothing happens. have checked fuses and relays all good anyone else ever had this issue. AC also stopped working.
  • I am working on a 96 sebring convertable which keeps blowing the number 8 fuse under the hood.?It is the fuse that controls the ignition,fuel and starter relays..i see where some people have had the same issue but have not seen a fix?well one guy said he had a melted wire by the egr valve,,but i have checked that an no go!I have replaced the ignition switch in the steering column and am having the starter bench tested with the solenoid..are there anybody else that has this problem and what was there solution??Thank you!!
  • Well i replaced the starter and cleaned the solenoid connections up with some degreaser as there was some oil in it.packed it full of dielectric grease and away i went!!Started up the first try...woooooohhh
  • Im sure your relieved....sometimes it ends up being somethin small. My chrysler is still locking and unlocking and the seat belts stopped working...drive to work is soooo much fun...lmao :lemon:
  • On my 97 Sebring Conv. The odometer show nothing and the tach has no reading with engine running and the light on gear selector are off. Sometimes (think it was 2 years ago) odometer,tach and lights worked fine for a day then back to misbehaving.Anyone?
    And nope I will not let the dealer replace the computer!! A friend did and had the same problem come back dealer said "well you needed a computer anyway" yeah right!!
  • My wife is having the same problem with her Sebring now. Had it to the dealer and they cannot figure out what the problem is. Can you tell me what it is they fixed on your car?
  • My wife has a 2003 Sebring coupe Lxi. Hers did something similar in the snow...the car suddenly flipped on the battery light while she was on the highway and I had her pull off in a parking lot, so I could check it out. When I got there I put a meter on the battery to check it out. The alternator was messed up and I was getting 18 volts at the battery. Inside the car smelled like electrical stuff was burning, which was the fan since she had it on high. In an effort to not further ruin the battery and car's electrical system I unplugged the alternator regulator (small ~4 wire connector on top), which immediately stopped charging and we drove the car home. I proceeded to check everywhere what the exact problem was because the next day I plugged the regulator back in and the car was fine. It continued to be intermitten and finally I replaced the alternator with NAPA's top end rebuilt alternator (didn't sell a new one). This lasted 1 mile from where I replaced it. To make a long story short NEVER buy a rebuilt alternator for this car. I had an alternator and starter shop check both the original and the rebuilt and they both had bad stators, which he informed me can only be purchased by buying a brand new alternator (which is not usually the case). What this means is a rebuilt likely has a bad stator and they did not replace it and it is usually an intermitten problem that pops up in cases like yours...high humidity/rain.
  • My 99 Sebring Conv. same problem but just seems to be a short a push the mileage reset and it comes back on, of course you have to do it fairly often.
  • rmcohenesqrmcohenesq Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    Did you ever get a solution? My car just did the same thing, exactly!

    Please let me know?
  • I just purchased a 2005 Sebring Sedan in really good condition, but a lot of miles - about 143K. When I first turn the car on, the cruise control stays on for about 2 minutes and then turns off and I can't get it to turn back on. If I turn the car off and then back on, I can get it to on again for about 2 minutes before it turns itself off. While it is on, it engages and cruises until it turns off. Has anyone else experienced this problem or know what causes this? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. :cry:
  • I have 2001 Sebring will not start. Battery is full. When the ignition is engaged the lights in the interior dim out, the radio, outside temp display goes dead and starter will not engage (solenoid) The head lights stay bright and do not dim down when the ignition is engaged. I am not sure where to start tracking this issue (ground?) Any help would be great. V-6 2.7
  • it sounds like a bad connection under the hood. Remove negative and positive cable and wirebrush cables and terminals
  • You have a bad ground on the side with the dim headlight. Check all the grounds near the headlight. Also, on some models each headlight is fused individually. If one of the fuses goes out, this could cause the same problem.
  • After getting the car home (towed) and starting to check things out further here is what I have found.

    20 amp Fuse keeps blowing for fuel under hood. Things that are non responsive and have no power are: Radio, wipers, washer pump, turn signals. All fuses and relays moved around to test and are good.

    This is starting to sound like a famous Chrysler electrical storm.

    I am thing this may be a ECM issue, there are 2, but not sure which one is the issue at this point. Thank you Chrysler
  • Not a headlight issue please reread my post. Thank you for response, need help still. see below

    After getting the car home (towed) and starting to check things out further here is what I have found.

    20 amp Fuse keeps blowing for fuel. Things that are non responsive are: Radio, wipers, washer pump, turn signals. All fuses are good.

    This is starting to sound like a famous Chrysler electrical storm.

    I am thing this may be a ECM issue I think there are two on it.
  • I own a '98 Sebring Jxi 6-cyl. Conv. that is blowing the 20-amp fuse, #8 Ignition fuel starter, located in the engine compartment fuse box. It only happens when I try to start the car. The fuse does not blow with the key in the ignition position, but when I try to crank the engine over, the fuse blows. I get no error lights and lose the display when the fuse blows. I hear no clicking, no relay engaging because the fuse blows first.
    I disconnected the cable running to the starter but the fuse still blows. The battery is charged. Turning off the radio makes no difference.

    Any suggestions what else I can do before I get it towed to a shop??
  • Did you just disconnect the large cable going to the starter? Sounds like a short in the solenoid. If the small wires are still connected the fuse will still blow.Second best guess would be a wire touching the steering colum from the ignition switch under the dash.
  • tmp44tmp44 Posts: 1
    The brake light on the dashboard of my 02 seabring will come on and off intermittently when I am driving. I don't have a problem with my brakes, is there a sensors causing this or another electrical problem? I also had an issue with the airbag light which was fixed by changing a sensor in the seatbelt. Is this a problem with all seabrings?
  • cbringuycbringuy Posts: 1
    Very common problem. The 20a fuse you are referring to covers both the starter and the fuel pump. In this case you probably have a bad starter selenoid. Unfortunately unless you can bring it to a rebuild shop you'll have to pay for a whole starter. This is one of those parts most of the major parts stores don't sell seperately and it is a total pain to change out.
Sign In or Register to comment.