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Chrysler Sebring Electrical Problems

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  • nik9nik9 Posts: 1
    i just replaced the stereo in my car and my problem was that the ground wire was not connected right.. so i made my own ground from the deck wire to anything metal inside the deck spot
  • My 2006 Sebring started having electrical issues within its 1st year, but never acted up during service visits at the dealer. I love the car, but sometimes it makes me a little crazy. I have the intermittent airbag light, the phantom seatbelt chime, and willful interior lights.

    After an oil change last year, it started stalling while driving down the road on my way home. I immediately went back to the dealer, where they checked it out and it wouldn't repeat (of course!). I have thought this problem may be due to bad gas, but before I can even treat the gas, it stops. If anyone has the answer to any of these questions, please share with me. I was thinking of selling the car, but not with all these problems. Help??!!
  • I own a '96 Sebring Jxi 6-cyl. Conv. that is blowing the 2-amp fuse, Ignition fuel starter, located in the engine compartment fuse box. It only happens when I try to start the car. The fuse does not blow with the key in the ignition position, but when I try to crank the engine over, the fuse blows. I get no error lights and lose the display when the fuse blows. I hear no clicking, no relay engaging because the fuse blows first.

    Any suggestions what else I can do before I get it towed to a shop??
  • I have a 2003 LXI sedan.
    I bought the car 4 yrs ago with only 46,000 on it.
    I should have known there would have been issues. When i drove it off the lot the sunroof only worked sometimes, so i took it back to where i got it, they tried to fix it, then after getting it back it still didnt work right so they ended up replacing the motor to the sunroof. then everything was fine for awhile.
    the next thing that went wrong is my drivers seat heater shorted out, then finally stopped working. Then my fog lights stopped working, and then my instrument light stopped all the sudden. So now i cant see how fast i am going at night.
    then the passenger seat heater stopped working, my heater/ac only works on 3 and 4. and now my drivers side back window doesnt roll down. i have bought a new switch and replaced both the back window switch and my main switches. it still doesnt work it has something wrong in the wiring.
    The only thing that hasnt gone wrong with my car so far is that it still runs well, knock on wood.
  • corporalmcorporalm Posts: 2
    Sounds to me like the connection to your battery is bad. If it is a new battery, then check the terminal connectors as well as the connectors near the PCM.
  • corporalmcorporalm Posts: 2
    Check your Brake Fluid level. Sometimes when the brake fluid gets low, the light will come on. If the fluid level is good, check the fluid level sensor.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,098
    My mom has a 2001 Sebring, and as she was driving to see me, the unit stopped working - no radio, no cassette. The clock is illuminated, but the time is stopped at the point where it stopped working. The fuse is not blown - checked that first.

    There is a cassette in the tape deck, and wondering whether that got tangled and killed the whole unit, or if that's just coincidence and there might be something else causing that whole unit to malfunction. We checked all of the other electrical components, and the wipers, lights, fan, and everything else is working fine, so it's just isolated to the middle-of-the-dash component. Any ideas before I let her go to the dealership? I'd love to just send her to a cheaper shop, or have my dad fix it.

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  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    edited September 2011
    Just purchased a 2001 LXI - Ran started fine for the first day - next morning started blowing the 20amp starter fuse when ever I tried to start car. Had car flatbedded 53 miles to dealer - next day went to pick up car and it blew four 20amp starter fuses before I gave up and drove the 53 miles home without it. Also noticed this time that when the starter fuse blew- the radio also was not functional.
    Nice car in fantastic condition but how do I get the problem diagnosed - I can't afford to pay a mechanic to "throw darts" until he hits on the correct problem. I figure it could be the stater/solenoid, fuel pump, or a short somewhere in the car - has anyone had this same problem and gotten it fixed? Seems like this is a common issue in this model - there must be a fix. Thanks
  • I know this is 2 years later, but did they figure out what the problem with the car was? I bought a 2000 Sebring LXi for my daughter and this started two weeks ago, horn starts blaring at different times. I even removed the fuse for the horn itself and it is still doing it *highly confusing* :confuse:
  • Hi, i have the same problems of you, please if you have any solution tell me, sorry for my english, is so so .
    Thank you
  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    Issue turned out to be a bad starter. Replaced the starter with an OEM starter and no more blown fuses.
  • Sounds so simple! I wish I had been counting how many 20 amp fuses I've gone through this year, but it has to be at least 25! This time, the new little fuses are :) n't working, and the tow truck will be called. Please let us know if it doesn't last (okay, I admit to being a sceptic).
  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    So far, so good. Personally I would stay away from a "remanufactured starter" as we tried one and it turned out to be bad and the fuse continued to blow (thankfully an experienced Chrysler mechanic heard the starter soleniod making weird noises and immediately relaized that the remanufactured starter was no good) - once we replaced it with a brand new OEM stater we have not had a problem at all. It is a nice feeling getting into my Sebring and knowing it is going to start right up. It has been over 2 weeks since the OEM stater has been installed, the vehicle has been started and driven a lot in those 2 plus weeks and all is well. It was the best $200 I ever spend on a repair - as now my wife can drive the car without me worrying that the fuse will blow.
  • Okay, so my battery died and, no surprise, once I got someone to jump it, my clock was reset. This car is borrowed from my dad and I want to try fixing the clock thing on my own, but I don't know how to do it. Anyone know how to adjust the digital clock?
  • kb15kb15 Posts: 2
    my dashboard lights go out every so often. Lights on instruments still work but back light to odometer doesn't light up. The odometer still works. There is no apparent timing or temp issues. The background lights just go off and can stay off even after the car has been turned off for a few hours. The next morning they may come back or at any point. This started about 3 weeks ago. The lights have gone out approx. 4 times since then. Any ideas before I take it to the dealer to repair and get taken to the cleaners?!
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    kb15, you could try biged143's suggestion for a similar problem before bringing it in:

    Re: 2001 Sebring Starting issues: dimming interior lights/gages not head lights [darronm] by biged143

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  • juleegrujuleegru Posts: 1
    edited December 2011
    I have had the same problem with my 2007 Chrysler Sebring for over 1 month. Took it to the dealer and they said it would be $600+ to fix. I can't believe this type of problem would be something Chrysler wouldn't stand behind!!

    will certainly NOT be looking at Chryslers when the next car purchase is to be made.

    Been a car owner for 30 years and NEVER had this problem. Bad bad bad craftmanship.
  • Never checked back here... sorry about that! well, there's a new sellenoid (I know that's not spelled right), a new (rebuilt - can't afford new) starter, and a new battery (just be be sure since winter was coming). So far, things are working fine, however, when I turn the heat off, there is STILL a funny noise coming from under the hood, like a bit of a crackle or sizzle as it powers down. My car has done this since the beginning of time, and so I'm not too worried about it. It had 2 miles on it when I bought it ('02) and now it has over 76,000 (I don't drive it far). Not the big concern is the control arms or whatever they're called. They have been replace ever two years for the last 5, and I'm on my 4th set of tires because of it. If I could stop pouring money into this car, I'd be able to save a little and buy a different used car, but they all have their problems. Not going to by another Chrysler though, no matter how much I like the looks!!!!
  • I have a 06 Sebring that's doing the same thing.. Did you figure out the problem?? I think it's the starter but I'm not sure..
  • It is just the 20 amp fuse blowing. My car has stopped doing it for some reason, but
    I am still carrying a supply of the fuses.
  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    The 20amp starter fuse kept blowing in my 2001 LXi until I replaced the remanufactured starter (which was bad) with an OEM starter - Since then (September 2011) I have had no more blown starter fuses, and no issues with my Sebring Convertible.
  • kb15kb15 Posts: 2
    Took it to the dealer but they could diagnose the problem. Of course the lights were working on that day. Nothing registers on the computer as an issue. They didn't work yesterday but are fine again today. Crazy! Waiting till they go out for an extended period to take it to the dealer or another shop. No other fuses are blowing.
  • 07sebringowner07sebringowner Posts: 1
    edited March 2012
    I got my 2007 Sebring Sedan in Sept of 2010. It had 63k miles on it, now it has almost 91k. Since getting the car we've gotten; new tires, new brakes, new alternator, 60k mile service done to it and regular oil changes.

    My problem is this:

    Approximately 7 or so months ago, my car started honking when I turn it on. 3 quick honks (all 3 lasting a total of less than 1 second together). When my headlights are on, the lighting on the console flickers dim - bright. My dome light can't be manually turned on unless the right turn blinker is on. I've taken it to a mechanic for diagnostics, if there is an error it goes by too fast for the computer to register it. I've been told to take it to a dealership to get it looked at, the dealership wants to block out a 2hr time frame and wants over $100 just to LOOK at my car. OH, and not sure if it's related, but; my car also stalls and sometimes dies when I'm at a complete stop (doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason for it) and my brakes occasionally lock up when going around a corner with any speed over like 10mph.

    I've searched high and low all over the web for issues like mine. I've seen people say their car randomly honks for prolonged periods of time, dash lights go out or flicker...but nothing of them all together, nothing like what I'm experiencing and no idea what to tell a mechanic to look for if I take it to one. Any ideas? anyone else have issues like this? Help! :confuse:
  • polskapolska Posts: 1
    I ahve the same problem with the windows- it is even stranger: when I open the door, the windows will go up and down.
    How did you get your propblem solved
  • spyce68spyce68 Posts: 1
    My 'BRAKE' light, ABS light, check engine and alternator light keeps coming on. I have installed new front & rear brakes and rotors, plus I have a new ECM Computer put in, but these lights still come on. I keep getting the run around, but in the process of spending too much money. What should I do?
  • mrveeemrveee Posts: 3
    Good day, I just bought a 98 Sebring JXi Convt. and I've noticed a couple of problems. Hopefully some can help. Power Driver Seat: I back and front control is working, however, the adjustment for full seat height, rear seat button adj. and the front of the seat adj. are not working?

    Another problem is that the speedo needle occasanally bounces and then operates normally and the tach isn't working. I have found out that the output speed sensor is bad. Could that be causing the speedo and tach problem?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    Sam
  • vsale1984vsale1984 Posts: 1
    Had the same problem on my 01 sebring 2.7 LXi. My fuses kept on blowing sometimes 6 in a row when i started my vehicle . then it would stop for 6 months. Point is that it was random. Checked by my starter. Random wire was hitting my starter at random times and blwoing my fuse. Spent three times at the dealership and 2 other mechanics. Found it myself . Been fine for 5 years now. Never happened again.
  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    Yep - Mine's been fine since I had the starter replaced with an OEM Mopar unit.
    Sure glad the mystery was solved. Went from a 2003 Saab 9-3 Convertible wirh 36,000 miles on it to my 2001 Chrysler Sebring LXi Convertible with over 95,000 miles on it and I couldn't be happier. I love this Sebring - Just an all around nice vehicle (and no cowl shake like in the Saab) :)
  • This may be the answer to many of the electrical questions here. I just resolved several related symptoms. I had the charging system light , check engine light going on intermittantly, also teh seatbelt light. I had problems with the converable top opening or closing in a jerking motion or not at all. I also had the transmision shift hard when you slow almost to a stop and then speed back up. Then I noticed like you the the speedometer would bounce up to 15-18 miles per hour mirroring the RPM needle.

    All of these symptoms were resolved. There was an internal short in the alternator causing an electric field to be applied through the alternator housing to the frame of the car.

    The Speedometer kicking up to 15 MPH caused the top interlock to kick in. it caused the transmission to shift while standing still and the ground reference was changed by the field causing low voltage differential through out the vehichle's systems causing everything else.

    I just got my car back yesterday and looked here to see if this was a common problem. It appears that almost everyone's electrical problems could be tied back to something like this.
  • my 2002 started poping the 20 amp starter fuse last week end and now has stopped. Also the airbag light has come on.
    Any one got any ideas?

    downhillracer in Az
  • I sprayed some 'BREAK FREE' into the switchs on the steering wheel a couple of time and now the cruise works find.
    Good Luck.
    downhillracer
  • What did you do to fix your Chrysler Sebring windshield wipers when they were stopping immediately(not finishing or parking to the bottom of the windshield when turning them off). Was it the windshield wiper switch on steering wheel column or was it the windshield wiper motor park switch that had to be replaced or what did you do to fix it? I have a 98 Sebring LXi and it is doing the same exact thing that you describe. I already replaced the wiper switch on the steering column with new part and still have the same problem and was hoping you could tell me what you did to fix your problem, only thing I knew next to do was replace the windshield motor for wipers. But was not sure if it was something else. Please reply.
  • roxkulonroxkulon Posts: 1
    I just bought this car, and last night I realized my backup lights will not shut off. They will stay on all the time. Any solution to this problem. I don't want to just disconnect them, but I will if I have to. Thanks for you help with this.
  • lee157lee157 Posts: 1
    I just bought my daughter a 97 Sebring conv't.

    1. When driving the door locks are opening and closing (buttons on door going up and down)

    2. Interior light is now staying on (rear council).

    3. Tach and odometer work when they want.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks
  • All chrysler and dodge stratus with radio noises please do not spend a penny. simply clean all your battery terminal both and dont even waste time calling the dealer because they do not know their own cars the way they should. I worked on my car for 4 weeks and replace everything worth over $ 2000 to find the simple solution. please have fun and love your car again. As for me, no more chrysler for life. PLEASE PLEASE I DID ALL THE WORK FOR ALL OF YOU. I LITTELARY REPLACED EVERYTHING ON MY CAR TO SEE WHAT WAS DOING THIS. THE DEALER IS FULL OF SHHHHHHIT. THE POSITIVE POLL IS USUALLY THE ONEMAKING THE POPPING SOUND THRU THE SPEAKER. GOOD LUCK
  • i have the same dash configuration as you folks. taking it to the dealer will only end up costing needless money. after quite a bit of trouble shooting and pealing the dash apart many times. it is narrowed down to a small transformer ( converts 12v. to 60v.ac.) on the back of the circuit board in the cluster. after an easy 6mos. of monitoring with a tester always attached. i can say without a doubt it's the transformer that produces the intermittent problem with the blackouts. until you can find someone in your area that does this kind of electrical work. (like fixing neon beer signs) you can cheat by buying one of those little battery operated lights for clipping on a book when your reading. clip it to the ac. duct near the dash and aim it on the cluster. (how's that for redneck for you. my wife won't let me live that one down) please don't let the dealer scam you for a multi function switch.
  • you will want to check out posting #199
  • check for any loose conections in the area of the started.
  • Are the seat belts part of an electrical circuit? The under-passenger seat-infinity amp blew because of water flooding. Everything worked fine but the battery would drain out so we cut the power wire going to the amp. Not sure how soon after, could have been immediate - not sure, the seat belt wont loosen so my passenger can put it on. I wondered if the seat belt apparatus is part of an electrical circuit, if there are fuses, and so on. I sure would appreciate any advice and information. Thanks

    Happy Rhodes.
  • Theses electrical problems started happening with my 2006 Chrysler Sebring, 4 door, one by one, over a period of two years:

    1st. My automatic lock and lock control does not work on the driver side.
    2nd. Some dahsboard lights (air, radio) would delay to come on.
    3rd. The air blower only blows at highest setting.
    4th. 20 Amp fuse to the ignition i dstarting to pop (twice in the past 6 month period).
  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    In September 2011, my 2001 Sebring Convertible had your problem #4 - First an independent mechanic installed an aftermarket starter thinking he had solved the problem but it continued. Then I brought it to a Chrysler Dealership and the shop foreman was able to replicate the problem, turns out the aftermarket starter was bad too! He replaced the started with an OEM starter and the problem was solved. (I returned the aftermarket starter to the independent mechanic for a full refund). Over two years later the 20 amp starter fuse has never blown again. (Knock on wood - No fuse has blown since.

    Problem number 3 sounds like the blower resistor needs to be replaced, this is a fairly common problem on many vehicles which is easily fixed.

    Best of luck with getting your Sebring's issues fixed.
  • jbuscjbusc Posts: 11
    In September 2011, my 2001 Sebring Convertible had your problem #4 - First an independent mechanic installed an aftermarket starter thinking he had solved the problem but it continued. Then I brought it to a Chrysler Dealership and the shop foreman was able to replicate the problem, turns out the aftermarket starter was bad too! He replaced the started with an OEM starter and the problem was solved. (I returned the aftermarket starter to the independent mechanic for a full refund). Over two years later the 20 amp starter fuse has never blown again. (Knock on wood - No fuse has blown since.

    Problem number 3 sounds like the blower resistor needs to be replaced, this is a fairly common problem on many vehicles which is easily fixed.

    Best of luck with getting your Sebring's issues fixed.
  • cm57cm57 Posts: 1
    Mine did same thing. The problem was so simple that I couldnt believe it. At the drivers door theres the black switch that pushes in when door is closed, pops out when door opens. That thing was stuck and would sometimes pop out by itself, sometimes wouldnt. Anyway, I simply replaced it with another one from a junkyard. But, i could have also sprayed wd 40 on it and pushed it in and out over and over until it loosened itself up. But ever since then, those crazy intermittent lights coming on and off all by themselves is over.
    As for the check engine light, what is the code? if its the dreaded p0440 or in that area, you can put fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank for the next 2 or 3 fill ups and that will end that cel issue. But you need to let us know the code why the cel light is on before we can actually give you any feedback.
  • texrodeotexrodeo Posts: 3
    edited October 2013
    My roomie has a 2002 Sebring Limited Convertible that he had purchased in August 2012 with at the time just over 64k on the digital clock. It now has just over 71k on it. Anyways a few months before this I had an electrical issue that looked like a burned wire somewhere and a puff of smoke under the drivers side engine compartment. I tightened up the loose remote ground on the strut Tower and everything was fine. Later on it did the same to him and he turned the car off and restarted and it was fine. Well about 2 weeks ago he went down to the doctors office and back and armed the security system like normal. I went out about an hour or so later to get the mail in, I happened to look in the car and the security light was not flashing. I open the door and there is No Odometer (It Now reads 0 miles on the clock) There is No dash response from the gauges and warning lights except for the E-Brake Light and Oil Pressure Light come On. I ran the Instrument cluster test with no Errors all working and It indicated "No DTCs", Also there is no Horn, Wipers, Dome Lights, Trunk Release, Power Door Locks/Keyless Entry, AC, Rear Defroster, Dash Light Illumination, Warning Lights, The Trip Computer indicates the Compass Heading but Nothing else, No Power Top or Heated Seats either.

    Here is what is Working. The Car Starts and Seems to drive as Normal, I have as I said the E-Brake Light and the Oil Pressure Light on the Dash, The Power Windows, Outside Lights, Turn Signals and Hazards, Reverse Lights, Radio/AMP, Power Mirrors. The Transmission Indicator on the Dash.

    I have Posted to every Blog known to man about this. I have Contacted the Dealer that wants $95 just to look at and Diagnose it and If there is Wire repair they will do it for that. But if there is more to it then the Price is More, and That Frightens me immensely when I live on a very fixed monthly income and so does the roomie. I even went as far as emailing Chrysler in order to point out how ridiculous this is at this age of vehicle and the low amount of miles. I also indicated that I never had these kind of issues with any other car including Japanese cars, especially; that I had ever owned and I had explained my financial situation. I then get this very cold form letter back praising their wonderful 5-Star Dealers and their perspective service departments and also the fact that I have no warranty on this vehicle. So No Help with anything thus far and I have an approximately 2500 lb. Paperweight in the driveway. I have Taken this car apart as best as I can with the limited tools and my limited knowledge of cars looking for an obvious frayed of burned wires that I could see. PC/MAC Repair Tech of more years than I care to count, I am. Car Mechanic I know enuff to be Very dangerous. If anyone has any Ideas, Please give me a Shout.

    Thanks,

    Larry
  • Siebring convertible had issues with roof mechanism but now the engine warning light comes on and the car runs on 5 cylinders then after 5 mins it pops on to 6 cylinders or waits till the next trip
    Mechanic reset dashboard warning and found no faults - now they want to take the engine management system out and check it out
    Apart from selling the vehicle when it runs on 6 - is there a quick fix ...????
  • The engine will not even crank over. I jumped the battery and still not cranking, figured it was the starter so me n my brother removed the starter (Pain in the butt) took it to a rebuild shop and it tested fine. Put the starter back on and still won't turn over. My brother kept trying to start it when all of the sudden WHAM!!! IT STARTED!!! I let it idle for a while, hopped in and drove her for a bit, returned home and shut it off, cranked her again and it started, shut it off and cranked it again and ............. click!!. That was two days ago as of this note. I have checked fuses under the hood and in car and all are fine. I did the engine diagnostic thing where you turn the key on/off 3 times and get a reading of P 05 13. Can anyone shine a little light on this for me and maybe see if this code has anything to do with my problem? I would be so thankful if you can help. Thank you
  • According to the Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge Computer Codes.

    •P0513 - Theft prevention system misread Sentry Key or you accidentally put the wrong key into or near the ignition.

    So I would say something to do with the Sentry/Theft Control Device.
  • Hey thank you Tex that gives me something to check out. I forgot to mention that when I was trying to start it the other day the horn started honking like the panic button had been activated on the key fob. Gonna check and see if the transmitter for the anti-theft system is faulty. Thanks again I appreciate your help!
  • No Problem Man. I Hope you are able to get Your Sebring Going easier than It will be for me.
  • Here is one for you guys. I have a 2000 Sebring Convertible, I went out to start it and nothing happened. All that happens is the mileage and the P-R-N-D shows up on the instrument panel, up but no accessories turn on or any of the warning lights or radio come on. The battery is fully charged. I also turned the headlights on and tried to start it and the lights didnt dim. it is blowing the starter fuse in the fuse cluster under the hood. What is the cause of this problem? I need to know because I really dont want to take it to a shop if it is something I can fix. Please help.... Thanks
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