Chevy Silverado - Continued XVI

mgdvhman

...hey Dean....have you ever showed us any pics of your trucks?...give 'em up man!

...You too Red!

- Tim

ryanbab

Nope still on back order. The receive tire deliveries on monday. I have to check back each monday.

Ryan

bco

no biggie...here they are:

left front right front
spec range spec range
camber -0.3d 0.8d -0.3d 08.d
caster 3.3d 5.3d 3.8d 5.8d
toe -0.05d 0.15d -0.05d 0.15d

(note: d = degrees)

further for anyone interested, here are the definitions and implications of each of those terms (according to gm):

camber - the inward or outward tilt of the wheel; function: reduces stress on steering and suspension parts, minimizes road shock, helps straight ahead stability, and maintains optimum tire life; implication: improper camber will cause excess tire wear on the edge. it will also cause pull or drift.

caster - the forward or rearward tilt of the steering axis versus vertical; function: provides steering stability, steering returnability, and cornering ease; implications: improper caster can cause pull, shimmy, excessive road shock and steering effort.

individual toe - the angle between the plan of rotation of one wheel and the vehicle centerline; function: static toe angles are required to position the wheels parallel when the vehicle is in motion; implications: improper toe can cause major tire wear and increased fuel consumption. a saw tooth wear pattern is typical on front tires; a diagonal wear pattern is typical on rear tires

makes a lot more sense if you can see the diagrams...but you get the idea.

bco

obyone

I used the Chevron brand that you can buy off the shelf at Costco at 2 for $5.99. If you bought it at a Chevron is would cost $9.99 each. I wonder why that is?

bco

TS123? I'll email the distributor with that info and see what turns up. Figure can't hurt. Will post when I get a response.

jed1894

Glad to see you put Ryan's repair technique to work and it also worked for you...LOL!! Question: Is it more effective to perform the procedure when you are pissed at the noise or not?

Tim

I thought about it in between beers a couple of weeks ago. Then forgot about it when I grabbed my next beer. Something about alcohol amnesia. Glad you reminded me as I'll try to take some as soon as the snow lets up. LOL!!

Dean

steelworker

you just proved the point that if you need something done you got to (sometimes)do it yourself ,I dont trust the dealers for work to be done ,they just dont seem too interested in you after you sign the paperwork and than have a problem ,Im having one now and Ill post what happens as the drama unfolds.Ive gotten mixed reviews on injector cleaner additives a mechcanic I know said to use chevron cleaner cause you just use it every 3000 miles at a cost of 5.00 a bottle He says it wont hurt notthing and also suggested to replace main fuel filter once a year.He said theres alot of crap in cheaper gas brands ,around here the low octane cheap stuff is 1.35 ,name brand is 1.49 +depending on what part of town your in .OH yeah I changed my back ups light bulbs to hologens (7.00ea) waiting till tonight to see if theres a big difference will do high beams next just not sure which brand to use piaa is way high, hib blue blubs are 14.99ea from j c whitney,got to do more research on it .

xring

Will the halogens melt the lens or the sockets with the additional heat the make?

John

obyone

Check these backup lights. Customer service had guaranteed me that they would not melt the plastic lens.

http://www.premiermotoring.net/cgi-bin/webc.exe/st_main.html?catid=147&sid=5iRDJe01bJyb8jW

steelworker

lights arent on constanly enough to heat up that bad I recon.?????

steelworker

like the ones I got from Design tech 50watt( brand name) purchased at advance auto supply it also states here that their 250%brighter?? it doesnt have a contact phone# or warning about melting advance auto also carries the back up beeper deal for 19.99

steelworker

they said there is a 2 minute max time they can be on for before doing any damage, wow glad you brung that up I guess for seven dollars you get what you pay for ,let the buyer beware .thanks lens are expense.....

steelworker

you would think they would have a warning on package,I tried to call other web for more info. on their blub like wattage but its after hours .I wonder why theirs doesnt get as hot unless the watts are less??

obyone

they didn't give a reason for not melting the lens. They just stated that it won't. Premier Motoring Accessories generally has high quality stuff and I've ordered from them before so I would tend to believe them for whatever their reason was. It's good to find out why it wouldn't melt the lens. As you say, they are expensive...

steelworker

they are brighter but notthing to risk melting lens cover over .I didnt keep them on long but the lens did get warm .I figure if I want more light Id be better off mounting back up spot lights under bumper and wiring them to back up light ,less worry about melting something.Ill keep these for now ,I just need to be more careful about these kinds of add ons .

steelworker

really I dont need the extra light just liked trying out new stuff will put the oringinals back in .

obyone

so what are you going to do with the lights that you bought? just curious since you made so many posts about them...LOL!!

odenmeyer

my truck goes in tomorrow for the updated windows. We will see what's up with that....

Dean

blackmax200

Take a look at the AC Delco Duraguard Gold line. Number for 'rado 4.8, 5.3 is UPF-59. They are full synthetic media with a stiffening screen, special rubber gasket and check valve. The synthetic media is more efficient at stopping small particles, less than 20 micron, from getting to the bearings. Yeah, they are expensive, $9 at PepBoys; but so was my truck. Just another .02
matthew

odenmeyer

AL: thanks for the part #s. Did this solve your problems? I'll be interested from hearing from Dean after he gets his windows replaced. I'm also curious if the part #s match although I don't think they will as I believe Dean should have frames and glass replaced as a unit. We'll see.

Mark

odenmeyer

of the black "L" shaped trim piece between the cab and the bed of the later '00 PUs?

Mark

obyone

This will be my third time changing the windows out. Man, what a drag. Service dept. is kinda disgusted too.

mgdvhman

....I'm glad I don't have any of these damn problems.....I'm not sure I have even had the rear windows OPEN in 23K miles or 14 months???

OK....we are gonna solve all Ado problems.....all 1500 owners......your truck will be bought back....crushed...and you will be given a 2500!

LOL

hehehhehehehe

- Tim

mpalombo

I've been on both alldata and NHTSA web page and neither have the TSB on the rear windows. I also thought I read about a seatbelt recall a little while back? I can't find anything on that either. Where do you guys get your info?

kalwood

I'm considering taking off the 4x4 decal from my new Silverado. How long before there will be a difference in the paint from where the decal was and was not? I've had the truck for about 7 weeks but really have no idea how long it sat on the dealer's lot. (Early I asked how to do it, now I'm asking how long do I have to decide.)

ryanbab

Whats this window problem??? The rear quarter panel windows???

Well my truck goes under the knife tomorrow

I doubt anything is wrong but i am getting the trans reprogrammed.

Dean - that trans reprogram will change the shift points and overdrive???? Just gathering more info before tomorrow thanks

Ryan

pinhi

I'm interested in buying a 01 4x4 SB Z71 pickup.
Can someone tell me what I can expect to pay for something like this? What kind of discounting off of MSRP can I expect?
Thank you in advance.

bco

about my quarter windows. haven't had any problems with them...but i haven't allowed anyone to open them either. dean, let us know how the new system works out. if it's good, i just may go and have it done as preventative maintenance. i just don't want them to ruin a good thing.

and...where DO you guys look for tsb info?

bco

ryanbab

http://www.nhtsa.com


QUARTER WINDOWS - I have had mine open alot. As a matter of fact had em open all day yesterday. Never had a problem except when i opened to dry underneath where it leakes i popped the black latch off and the window was hanging there. Luckily it snapped back together easily.

Ryan

BCO - let me know if that link doesnt work

ryanbab

Try this its better

http://www.nhtsa.com/cars/problems/

bco

...i'm usually "trap low" LOL!

your best sources for pricing are sites like:

www.carwizard.com or here on edmunds

i preferred carwizard because it allows you to "option out" your selected vehicle and get a print out with invoice and msrp for each individual option. you can take this to your dealer and say..."i will give you 3% over invoice" or "the dealer down the street is giving me $500 over invoice...here is invoice...what can you do?"

some have stated that they simply fax a copy of the vehicle and desired options with the invoice price to several dealerships and say, "i've faxed this to x,y, and z dealerships. best price gets my service..."

bco

obyone

If you're looking for the full text version of the TSB, NHTSA can provide it by faxing a request if they have it on file. There are so many coming out everyday that there is no way to keep track of all of them. Plus what manufacturer would want to send potential recall items to NHTSA or be in a rush to.

Another source is Helm's same people who put out the manuals. They have a quarterly updates that you could buy for $25 a pop.

Most owners have defective quarter windows and just don't know it. That's good cause if everyone went to the dealer for the same item, we would have a national backorder of 10 years...LOL!! Just the fact that the hinges are made out of plastic means its defective. Kevlar maybe, plastic hinge on a vehicle...no way!! I still wonder what moron was responsible for that design as its about as crappy as I ever seen. All you got to do is lean with one hand on the windows and watch those plastic hinges buckle. Now just imagine if you pushed on it....think it'll create an air leak...?

Dean

broph

I was recently towing my popup camper (which weighs about 2200K) & went from doing 45 mph to 25mph, when I went to step on the gas it seemed that the truck was in neutral. I has to bring the rpms up quite a bit before the truck did any accelerating. After coming to a complete stop & starting again the truck seemed ok. Has anybody ever had this problem before or might know what can cause this. I do not tow very much & this is the first time it has happened. Thought I was losing the tranny. Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks

mledtje

That sounds similar to the phenomenon that has been reported by several people - sometimes the trans does not 'engage' (mostly when starting from a stop). After several seconds, it 'engages' and drives normally.

It has been very intermittent, sometimes months (or never) between occurences.

That puts it into the "Its normal - don't worry about it" category.

Mike L

odenmeyer

Please post the part #s of the rear quarter windows once you get them replaced. Service dept. test drove my PU yesterday and validated my concern regarding excessive cab noise. First they replaced both door seals - no change in symptom. Now they wanted to replace only the drivers side rear window. I insisted they replace them as a set which they agreed to. They had the drivers side in stock but needed to order the passenger side. I have an appt next Wednesday to have them replaced which will be performed by a local glass shop. In addition to the cab noise I hear from the rear windows, I also hear what appears to be road noise coming from the bottom of the drivers side door. From the outside, the drivers side door appears to stick out slightly from the side body so this may be the cause of this noise. I would still like to know what the purpose of the "L" shape molding between the cab and the bed of the later '00 PU. I believe it has something to do with reducing cab noise.

Marl

obyone

Could you explain a little more on the L shape moulding between the cab and the bed? Where exactly between the cab and the bed is this moulding? Are you trying to say that there is this thick moulding between the cab and the bed maybe 1 -2" thick?

When I had questioned about hearing road noise from my passenger door, the dealer had sent my truck to an autobody shop to see if it was the weatherstripping or misalignment on the door. Well turns out that it's the door and the hinges are welded making it almost impossible to align. Another way that GM saves money is on the bolts. Just that you can't adjust them doors. I know that the old C/K had the same problem and that GM had a TSB to replace the welds with bolts. They just haven't had a TSB for the 'rado as of yet. Maybe not enough people complaining.

Will post part number as will see the dealer in an hour or so...can't wait to get into that '00 Dodge Ram that is waiting for me....yeah right!

Dean

ryanbab

Man all your troubles they should give you a vette to make up for it.

Ryan

bco

obyone's really from london, NOT hawaii...

what's up with moUlding, dean? huh??? LOL!!!

oden...i looked for the molding too. not sure what you're referring to. 'course, mine's an early '00 model (built 14 jan 00).

bco

odenmeyer

I'm probably not using the correct term of molding, but it's rather a piece of rubber trim. When the Z-71 sticker changed it's appearance, there were several other changes as well. One of which being the addition of this trim. If you look between the cab and the bed, you will notice this black strip of "L" shaped rubber that runs vertically on both sides of the truck. It's secured to the bed via nylon (I think) "one ways". Just to the inside of this strip is the rear cab vents. I've read the purpose of these two strips is to prevent (or divert) the air from entering these rear cab vents thus reducing the amount of cab noise. I still not totally sure of this which is why I'm asking. Other changes to the truck that I've noticed is the exhaust Y pipe on the drivers side is flat on the bottom thus preventing it from protruding below the cross support. The cross member supporting the transmission seems to be modified as well. I love the way GM makes these modifications mid-model year and tries to push them thru as merely an "enhancement" when we all know they're addressing problems while trying to cover their A#%$.

After looking at my drivers side door, I'm sure it's out of alignment and from what you've said, it would probably be hard to fix. I need a few more days in the shop to qualify for lemon law (30 days during the first year in California) but at the rate they're going, I shouldn't have any problems.

It's a shame, my previous PU was a '95 GMC Ext Cab 4X4 and I only had it in for warranty work one time which was just a minor issue. My '00 Ext Cab 4X4 was the first four door in my town and it appears GM logged a bunch of problems with this new design and made some necessary modifications which they implemented when they adopted the new Z-71 sticker. I have a few friends with the later '00 PU and they have zero problems. Shame on GM for trying to sneak this through.

Mark

odenmeyer

See the message above, if you have the older Z-71 sticker, it won't be there.

Mark

xring

I have a Y2K 2500 shortbed with the black molding between the bed and the cab. Door sticker says it was built in 06/00 (?) which is about right because it came off the truck on 7/3/00. I'll take a closer look at it tonight, but I'm thinking its just trim to help hide the "crack" between the cab and the bed - so you can't see through to the other side and see daylight. I'm thinking it's just for "looks". Mine has it on the drivers and passengers side. Get back to ya tonight/tomorrow.

John

speedybird

I've got the rubber L brackets on my LT. Picked it up at the end of April (have new Z71 sticker).

Randy

speedybird

I have a faint "ticking" noise when the fan (AC or vent) is on. Most noticeable at level 3. Sounds like it is in the dash just in front of the passenger seat.

It is not the rubber seals around the front windshield. That's been taken care of.

Mentioned it during service visits but they have been unable to find the culprit. Any ideas?

I currently just turn up the radio.

Randy

obyone

problem which he solved rather quickly. I believe it took several violent shakes and hits and suddenly, it was no longer there.

Odenmeyer

Just as a test try stuffing the vents in the rear of the cab with towels. 100% cotton of course and take it for a spin on the highway. It should help to pinpoint the noise. Man that road noise is annoying.

ryan

with my luck, the vette would probably vibrate too...LOL!!

Well I'm three hours late to the dealer and counting must have something to do with my moulding...Hehehe

Dean

odenmeyer

I have a '00 LT where the power lumbar will increase on it's own especially on hot days. Now that are temps are much cooler (CA), I haven't experienced it lately. It's very intermittent, although not quite as intermittent as the tranny hesitation from a stop is. I haven't pursued THIS issue with the dealer yet as I'm going after something bigger at the moment. Please keep me posted if you resolve this. Thanks

Mark

ryanbab

Im feel you about going to the service dept im going tomorrow. Anything you would like to tell me to help in my experience???

Ryan

obyone

I'm 4 hours late for my appointment so I'll post some ideas a little later...like in 2 hours. I'm really looking forward to driving that Dodge Ram....yeah right.

xring

Took a good look at the molding tonite. Sure looks like a trim accessory to me to tidy up the space between the cab and bed, so the gap doesn't look so big. Doesn't make a tight enought seal to prevent dust, etc. from getting to the rear vents.
My $.02.

Hey guys, don't forget to check the air in that spare tire, mine was down to 30 psi (must have been summer air) heheheheh LOL!

John

jed1894

When found out that warranty would not cover fan noise unless it was fan motor, I decided to fix it myself. I beat the H@$% out of everything under the dash! Runs good now.

TSB number: 00-o12-jed1894.........LOL

John

ryanbab

Hey john you should have fall air or even better winter air now. Ill be changing mine tomorrow night

Ryan

obyone

work. Was 4.5 hours late for my appointment. Needless to say, my choices for replacement vehicles were limited to:

1- '00 Grand Cherokee
2- '00 Sedan de Ville
3- '01 Dakota Quad Cab

So I picked the ugliest but newest vehicle. Took it down to pick up a load of chemicals. Loaded 1200#'s in the bed and was impressed by the power, ride, and handling of the Quad cab. I'm sure though it has nothing to do with its name...

The 4.7 hemi is impressive even with the 1200 #s in the bed. Hmmm...I wonder if it's going to be a problem doing all that hauling since the truck has only 108 miles on it?

Odenmeyer- Looks like I have to wait till tomorrow and hopefully I'll get the part number. The service advisor said that the tech was supposed to get back to him on the TSB, but like everything elso....he forgot. Will post as soon as I get my hands on 'em.

obyone

When I take the truck in for warranty work, I'll have a sheet of all the items that need to be worked on. With past experience, I insist that the service advisor review the list with me while I point it out on the truck making sure he understands the problem. If it's anything to do with the mechanical operation of the truck like driveline growl, or knocking, or vibrations, I'll ask for a test drive with a tech PRIOR to me leaving the dealership. That way, everything is VERIFIED before I leave and the dealer cannot come back to me and say it couldn't be duplicated or verified. Like a lot of owners, I learned the last part about verification the hard way as most will describe the problem to the advisor who has to decipher it and put it into writing then passing it on to the tech who reads it and doesn't understand what the problem is. Always verify. My $.02.

Dean

al2

The fix on my windows seems to have worked -- dealer said that new frames were on a different angle--whatever that means. My truck was subbed out to a glass shop and I know the glass is the same because I had a decal on one window. Also, I marked the latches to see if they were replaced and they weren't.

For those who are wondering what the fuss is about, it was wind noise at highway speed and it sounded as if the rear windows were slightly open (which I guess they were because of the air pressure on the poor latch). The new frame apparently directs air flow away and it works--so far.

Al