Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems



  • I have a 97 Sebring Convertible. My dad is a mechanic and this thing has driven him nuts. It did same thing yours was doing. It would sputter and rpm would drop and come back and then drop again.. changed 2 distributors on it before we found out.. it is the distributor plug.. apparently the locking clip breaks and it wiggles out.. so makes it to where only a few cyclinders are firing. Check that big plug into the distributor. We found one on another 2.5 engine at junk yard and now it runs like a champ!
    Chris in Georgia
  • billg13billg13 Posts: 4
    Chris, I am trying to find out if my problem is the same as yours. I have a 99 Sebring LXI convertable. I will be driving aroun 20-40 MPH and the engine kind of stalls. It seem to be running on 2-3 cylinders. I stopped the car and tried pumping the gas and nothing happens. I finllay shut the car off. trid to start it and the same sound, like it is trying to start on 2 cylinders. I left if off for about a minute and it starts like nothing is wrong. This happened 3 times in the past week. Does this sound like the same problem.
  • riiickriiick Posts: 1
    Been reading about problems folks have been having.

    My other reading at says many/most problems are fairly cheap sensors, especially TPS (throttle position sensor) Crankshaft position sensor, and Camshaft position sensor, and lastly (?) whatever Chrysler calls the speed sensor that tells the computer that car is *moving*.

    OH... and on older cars the Coil, and sparkplug wires.

    A lot of these apparently won't throw a code, but you can check many with a multimeter.

    Lots of problems are almost a joke - stupid corroded connections, and loose connections, things that are cured with umpty hours of thinking *where* the problem might lie, and 2 minutes cleaning the connector up.

    There are tons of resources on the WWW to help -- don't throw up your hands and empty you wallet to the Dealer - INSTEAD - do your Research!

    TRY (for starters) Click HERE

    Do a Google search for say: sebring starting problems

    People have gone thru this crud before, answers are there, but you might have to devote several hours to finding them .... or luck out 1st try. GOOD LUCK!!
  • gaffneygaffney Posts: 1
    My '97 Chrysler broke down just driving down the road. No automobile repair company has been able to figure out what is wrong. I have had the cam sensor changed, the distributor replaced and the car will run for about 10 minutes and then just die. No diagnostic tests is giving any codes or results.
    The car was in acceleration mode to pass another car when the car felt like the engine started chugging and like the car wasn't getting any gas. The tank was full. The car will turn but will not fire and crank-then we replaced distributor. Now it won't stay cranked and running.
  • I have a 98 and it began doing the same thing. The dealership replaced the fuel injection system and some other things. It continued to stall at red lights maybe four times in six months and would jerk on the highway like gears weren't shifting. During a vacation I left it at the garage and someone actually caught it stalling. They described it as a problem with the "modules." They replaced the distributor and made a few other tune ups. Now it has stalled out at least twice a day since I got back and the shop doesn't seem to have any idea, they just want to expirement. Did you ever solve your problem?
  • Yes, the right front hub assemblys are notorious for failing, I've had a new replacement go bad almost immediately, then the next replacement is fine. It makes a grinding type noise like brake sticking to rotor, or road type noise. Very annoying I know. Go for the higher priced, better quality hub and you should be good to go.
  • I had a similar problem where my '00 convertible would just stall out w/o warning. I did some research on this site; someone replaced their crank shaft sensor and it worked for them, and I'm happy to say it's worked for me--it's been over six months now and no problems. The guys @ my garage tested the sensor and it didn't show a problem, but I told them to replace it anyway. If I recall correctly it's about a $300 job (LA prices). Hopefully it will work for you--good luck.
  • One mechanic I asked to look at a Sebring 2002 I was interested in, said, "If it has a 2.7 engine, I won't even look at it." Of course it did as has all the others I have looked at.

    He said his aunt took perfect care of her car and one day at a red light it blew up. The motor had to be replaced because the water lines run through the motor and if they begin to leak, well it's ruined. Replacement was more than $4000.

    My mechanic says that can be changed out. He just doesn't like Chrysler products.

    I'm willing to buy one if I can make sure that change has been made. Does anyone else know of this problem and the remedy? How can I tell if it has been done already?
  • I have a 97 sebring coupe it turns off when I am driving it, I was wondering if anyone else was having that problem too? someone told me that it was coil pack and then they told me that it was the distributor and then the fuel pump. I really need some help figuring it out the problem.
  • I have a 1999 sebring i just replaced a bad spark plug at the store when i got home i disconnected the battery to reset the check engine light now the car wont start it just flashes the brake light when i try to turn it over it doesnt even seem like it is trying to start the power to the car seems fine but the radio doesnt turn on either i have tried everything i can think of does anyone know what this could be please help!!!!

  • Sounds like a bad connection at the battery recheck your cables and also look at the fuses near the battery posible you popped one. more than likely its just a bad battery connection though, very common. good luck. ps dont rule out a bad battery! try jumper cables from another car just for quick trouble shot.
  • I just want to update anyone that might be having the same problem that I was having. I replaced the crank shaft position sensor and while I had to remove the distributor cap, I replace it to and now it's running like a new car again. So if anyone is having that problem you might want to do change your crank shaft sensor first before doing anything else to it.
  • 2002 Chrysler Sebring Convertibe with 2.7L V-6
    Has twice blown the Fuel/Start 20A fuse in power distribution center under hood.

    Any ideas or fix to this problem?


  • Hey folks.
    I've got a 98 thats acting up, seems it wants to die out sometimes at stop lights or when you decrese the excelleration. I'm pulling a code P0172,I can't seem to find my code explanation book. Does anyone have a good idea what this code is referring to??? :(
  • dga57dga57 Posts: 3
    Hi... I'm new here. This spring I purchased a 1-owner, 70K mi., 2002 Limited convertible which, until then, had been a south Florida car. Brought it home to Virginia and drove it pretty much daily with absolutely no issues until temperatures dropped too low to drive with the top down. Because we have four other vehicles and this one was bought strictly for summer fun, it has not been used much for the past couple months. I have made an effort to drive it about once a week and just recently started having problems. One morning about three weeks ago, it stalled out at a traffic light without warning. Finally was able to restart after about ten minutes. I thought maybe some water had gotten in the fuel somehow so added a can of seafoam to take care of the problem. Drove it about 50 miles later that day without incident. About a week later, I took the car out to run a few errands and it performed flawlessly for the 30 or so miles I drove it. Yesterday I started it and drove to the Post Office (about five miles). I turned it off, went inside for about five minutes, and when I returned it would not start. Remembering my prior experience, I decided to give it a little time. I tried every two minutes and finally, on the eight minute mark, it started perfectly and ran like nothing had ever happened. I took it for about a 10 mile run before returning home where I shut it off again and restarted it several times just fine. The only real variable I can think of would be the temperature. Both times I've had problems the outdoor air temperature has been thirty degrees or lower and the engine was still cold enough that the temperature gauge had not started to rise. The trips in between were made later in the day when it was warmer out... probably closer to fifty-five or so. I am no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination but was wondering if, since the car has always been in a warm climate, the cold temperatures could be causing the problem? If this is even a possibility, what needs to be adjusted or reset to fix it? For now, I'm considering just starting it periodically rather than actually driving it until the temperatures warm up again and see what happens then. It currently has 76K miles and we love the car otherwise. Thanks for any insight you can offer.
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Hi Dwayne,

    I'm not a mechanic either, so maybe someone who does it for a living will jump in here.

    You can reset the computer if you think it might have adjusted to being driven in warmer temps for all these years. There is probably a main fuse to do this but the sure way is to disconnect the negative cable to your battery and leave it off for an hour or more. After you reattach it and start the car let it sit and idle for several minutes until the idle RPM settles down.

    Other things to consider that might be heat-related are the plug wires. If the wires are going bad heat will magnify the issue. If they are the original wires it's time to replace them anyway.

    Do you know when it last had a tune-up? Maybe new plugs while you're replacing the wires. Does the air filter look fairly clean?

    I once had a car that ran well most of the time but it stalled out for no apparent reason. A service department discovered debris in the tank and a clogged fuel filter. If I let it sit for a few minutes the debris would settle back down and it would start right up.

    You might add a fuel filter to the tune-up list. They're usually not too hard to replace but be sure you depressurize the fuel line before removing the old one or you'll get a fuel bath. Your owner's manual or the fuse box cover should say which fuse goes to the fuel pump. Remove it and let the car idle until it stops from lack of fuel.

    Lastly, you might add a can of a quality fuel injector cleaner to your tank.
  • dga57dga57 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the suggestions tedebear... I think they are all good ones. I hadn't even thought about trying to reset the computer! The car was a one-owner and was traded in on a new Toyota. That dealership sold it at auction to another dealer and that's who I bought it from. I have no documentation of the service history so don't know when, or if, it was ever tuned up. The air filter looks okay and I did run a can of Seafoam (auto parts retailer claims is the best fuel injector cleaner on the market - I don't know) through it. The whole thing struck me as odd because it came on all at once, and seemingly, only in cold weather. Until then it ran fantastic. In fact, we had planned to drive it to Daytona Beach for the Turkey Run Thanksgiving weekend before the first stalling incident, which occurred on the Monday morning before we were to leave. Rather than risk problems on the road, especially on a holiday, we opted for driving a different vehicle instead. Again, thanks for your input. I'm off work this weekend and will see what I can accomplish.
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Please keep me posted on what you find. I always like to add to my mental database of troubleshooting tips or learn if one of my suggestions worked. Plus, someone else might read this thread who is having the same problem. ;)
  • Hey Dwayne,

    I don't know very much about cars. But, your problem sounds exactly like the problem that I had recently with my car. It needed a new TTC or something called a torque solenoid. I would call a transmission shop and explain the problem you have been having, mention that you think it might have something to do with the torque solenoid and see what they say. It cost me about $300 to get it fixed in California.
    Also, another word of advice, always make sure you have enough antifreeze/coolant in you car. I had a major problem with mine when I let it run dry. The whole lower half of the engine had to be replaced, but at the time it was actually cheaper than buying a new car.
    Let me know what you think, and if that is what was wrong with it.
  • Hey Ted, I had that same problem.... eventually my starter went, so you may want to have that checked. Once you replace your starter it should be fine.
  • :cry: :cry:
    I have 2001 Sebring (and I love my car) conv. she has been great!! I bought it used, with 24k miles on it. I've only had to replace the starter after some idtiot tried to give me a jump with a jump start box and fried it, after he tried to jump start my car, he shorted out the started and it kept blowing fuses.

    Thurs (last) I was driving down the road and stopped for gas, while I was idling waiting in line for the gas, my car started to idle rough. I filled the tank got back on the road, my power stearing started to make an odd sound, I hear a pop, the check engine light came on, and my car died.. I rolled onto the shoulder and when I tried to restart the car, all I got was click click click - nothing else.

    My mechanic can't figure it out, he thinks it maybe the computer - any thoughts prior to me spending over a grand a computer if that may not be the probelm?? I really need some help please -

  • Hello,We put in a new fuel pump.It has very good spark.And of course no codes.If I understand it correctly,if the crank or cam sensor is bad there will not be any fuel presure or spark.We are stumped could someone please help us with some advise.Thank You John
  • Hi,

    I am new to this site and this is my first post. I have recently purchased a 95 sebring with only 101000 kms on it. it starts fine and has never stalled on me, but when it heats up and im going 30-40 kms and press the gas pedal the rpm's drop down from 2500 to 1000 and then climb back up 5-10 seconds after. The engine light also comes on soon after this happens and i cant drive an hour without the light coming on or the car doing this. it is cold where i live and when the car is running cold it doesnt seem to do this. Car idle's fine and other than this problem runs good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    p.s. - i really dont think its the transmission it seems to be more of a fuel or electrical issue.

    thanks in advance
  • 1997 sebring lxi will crank over but has difficulty starting, especially if the car has been driven long trip (20 minutes), engine turned off, then attempt to restart within 5 minutes. It has sometimes lost all power resetting my clock but I turn ignition key off, the on again and it will crank and eventually start. Once it starts car idles fine and runs fine. I have changed spark plugs, rotor, distributor cap. Not sure where to go from here. Has anyone experienced similar problem. Considering first changing crankshaft sensor then possibly distributor if that doesn't work. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  • I was going to suggest the distributor or the Crankshaft position sensor but your comment about "losing all power, resetting the clock", is confusing the situation. This sounds more like an electrical problem with possible even the battery, batter cables or wiring. If the battery is old, I would change it anyway.

    However, you may want to read this forum. I started the post and it has about 50 replies.
  • naji07naji07 Posts: 2
    I bought my 2007 Chrysler Sebring brand new and it will be a year old on March 28th. Within the past 2 months my car has been stalling on me while I am stopped at a red light or in rush hour traffic. Most recently while going 40 mph on a highway where it just shut down. I have taken my car to the dealership 3 times now and the first 2 times I was told there was nothing wrong with it and that they couldn't get it to duplicate my problems. The last time I was there, the dealership said that something came back on the diagnostic test and they replaced an "environmental filter" not sure what that is and not much of a description on the invoice. I was told at my 2nd visit that Chrysler is aware of the problem so I assume there are others out there with the same problem. I feel like I have a LEMON! Is anyone experiencing similar problems and does anyone have any suggestions???

  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Is anyone experiencing similar problems and does anyone have any suggestions???

    Before investing in any expensive diagnostics or parts try the following.

    Disconnect the negative cable on your battery and leave it off for at least 10 minutes or more. After you reattach the cable start the car and let it idle for several minutes while the computer "relearns" the idle speed and things.

    I can't guarantee it'll fix anything but it's a free troubleshooting idea.

    On a more radical note, any chance there's water in the fuel and in really cold weather ice is blocking the fuel lines or filter? You said this just started happening within the last two months. When it is inside the service bay at the dealer the ice would melt and they couldn't reproduce the problem.
  • jowalkjowalk Posts: 3
    I own a 2008 Chrysler sebring convertible. 61/2 months old, 3900 miles. It has stalled 4 times . Once while I was stopped at a light and three times while driving it. I am now afraid to drive this car. Car dealership cannot find anything wrong with it. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • tedebeartedebear Posts: 832
    Does anyone have any suggestions?

    Did you try my suggestions in the previous message?

    My 07 Sebring is 7 months old with around 6,000 miles. I've never experienced any stalling problems with it. I love how well it handles in the snow with the ESP and traction control.

    I hope the love affair last for many years.
  • I bought an 07 back in Sept. I took it in for a noise in the front end and told them that the car stalled on me while sitting at a light. They told me that it may have been some dirt in the gas tank that caused it to stall. The second time I took it in, this time for the stalling, they fixed the throttle body. (whatever that is lol) Again it stalled on me within 2 weeks of getting it back. I took it in this morning and they told me that they cannot find anything wrong with it. I called the dealership I bought it from and they told me that Chrysler is aware of the problem. It may be that it just needs some kind of software update. If that does not work then they don't have any way to fix it. I am going tomorrow to have them do the updates and will be letting them know that if they dont fix it I want my money back. I will let you know if I find out anything new. :mad: it is just aggravating!!
Sign In or Register to comment.