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Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • jklinjklin Posts: 1
    Please tell me you found a solution to this problem. I have been researching this problem for a while and all the solutions point to a $500 fix. I just do not have that kind of money. Now your description of the problem is an exact match to mine. Especially the part about wet weather making the problem really bad. Ive been able to make it through the summer but winter is coming and I can just imagine the crap shoot that will be. So please share with me what you learned.
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    Ok this sounds like it could be the MAF.. Mass Air Flow sensor. Do you have the LX JX V6 or 4?

    Failure symptoms

    Problems with Mass Air Flow sensors are common. Bad or contaminated CHRYSLER Sebring Mass Air Flow sensor can possibly cause a wide range of various vehicle drivability problems such as stalling, especially when the engine is cold, misfiring, poor acceleration, etc. In addition, a problem with the Mass Air Flow sensor often causes the "check engine" or "service engine soon" light in the vehicle instrument panel to illuminate.

    Description

    The Air Flow Sensor or Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) is one of the components of an electronic fuel injection system and is found in many of modern vehicles. Most mass air flow sensors are one piece hermetically sealed units with no moving components.
    Purpose

    The Mass Air Flow sensor is used to measure (actually weight) the amount of air entering the engine. This measurement is used by the engine computer or ECM to calculate proper amount of fuel injected into the cylinders in order to provide optimum combustion and low emissions.
    Maintenance Tips/Suggestions

    CHRYSLER Sebring Mass air flow sensor requires no regular maintenance. On mass air flow sensors with a sense wire, this wire can become contaminated with dust particles. These particles can be removed with automotive solvents that are safe for the use on mass air flow sensors. CHRYSLER Sebring mass air flow sensors are commonly misdiagnosed. Before replacing the mass air flow sensor check for air leaks in the connecting air ducts and intake manifold. These leaks can cause similar symptoms as a malfunctioning mass air flow sensor.

    Location

    The CHRYSLER Sebring Mass Air Flow sensor is usually installed in the intake air duct between the air filter and the throttle body mounted on the intake manifold. Some mass air flow sensors are mounted directly to the throttle body.
  • svndrasvndra Posts: 1
    My 2003 Chrysler Sebring v6 3.0L shuts off at a standstill/stop lights. At first, I thought that it was just the gas that wasn't going because all the lights and radio would stay on when it would shut off. It starts back up immediately after I take out the key and restart it. My mechanic thought he had solved my problem by tightening one of the cables to the battery but it still does this. I just had the starter replaced too, because it was "burned out" according to my mechanic. I don't know if that has anything to do with it. It would not do this before I had to get my starter replaced.
  • Well its unfortunately probably too late to help you, but it ended up being a flaky starter relay. Swapped it out with the A/C Relay and car starts but no cold a/c....go figure. In Texas no a/c is almost as bad as not starting but a relay is a cheap fix and an easy troubleshooting step.
  • 2001 sebring with 85000 miles. It's been running great but this morning nothing, just cranks. Checked for fuel pump powering up (it is) checked / swapped fuel pump relay anyway and several fuses including the one for ASD. No error codes.

    I popped the fuel line at the rail and there is fuel but did not seem to be under much pressure, I also bought some starter fluid and it will start and run on that for a few seconds. I suspect my pump may be powering up but just not generating pressure or the pressure regulator is bad, either requires dropping the tank so I maybe should just replace both, my issue is I have never had a fuel pump "sort of" fail they have always been just dead...anyone have a similar issue before? I have had a dodge durango and a dakota where I had similar symptoms with bad crankshaft / camshaft sensors but those gave codes.
  • 3.0 5spd 03 car hesitated under acceleration first would go to a stall, hesitated if gas was pressed would run just fine wile cruising really slow acceleration to get up to speed. misfire detected ses light on. now car wont start if cranked for about 5 seconds car will attempt to start hear combustion but combustion wont continue any suggestions would be helpful
  • 96 sebring misfiring. diagnoised as a distributor problem,could this be caused by cat convertor
  • No...it could be caused by a distributor problem, though
  • replaced distributor with after market distributor and begin getting different codes with each distributor
  • did you ever figure out what the problems was?

    I'm working on an 04 sebring 2.4 liter and having same problems it sounds like. I have access to a lot of manuals anre are having a hard time chasing this one down.
  • kjnthkjnth Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out what caused this? I've had the same issues and the dealership is trying to get me to pay $1200 to replace the idle speed motor. What they are telling me is that anytime the battery is disconnected on my car, they have to re-program the idle speed motor to stop it from shutting off at the standstill. However, I've owned this car for over 5 years and never had an issue. I called Firestone where I have also had my car serviced and they said they have never had to re-program the idle speed motor after disconnecting the battery. It works right now as long as the car is in reverse or drive. If it is in neutral or park, it dies instantly (after it has warmed up). So frustrated!
  • donnaluvdonnaluv Posts: 7

    Re: Sputtering, stalling, won't start. Ok guys, I also have a 96 Chrysler Sebring, 2.5 v6 Convertible. I have spent over $3400 this past year fixing everything! I am here to save you from doing the same. I replaced the ECU,spark plugs ( but that was ok they were the wrong ones) Chrysler Sebrings are suppose to only use Champion Plus premium, Bosh does not work on everything, including this car. I replaced the timing belt, oh Lord I could go on and on. In the end I finally find a mechanic with some brains, apparently I had leaky valve gaskets and the oil went into my CRANK SHAFT Sensor. Anyway, you must use the OEM, I bought mine at Auto Zone for $61, dealer had it for $82, but after I bought mine, found the OEM on Amazon for $31. Finally, no more sputtering, stalling and no start. I found we should replace the crank shaft sensor about every 60k miles, although Chrysler says every 100k. Be sure you use most OEM products for this car, after market ones will not work!!!! We live and we learn. God Bless and good luck guys, easy fix! Oh and I paid $40 for install not a big job, they can go in from the drivers side wheel well after removing the plastic cover when the tires off. Don't get ripped off like I did.

  • donnaluvdonnaluv Posts: 7

    PS: Also check for recalls on this car, there are many which can save you a fortune!

  • donnaluvdonnaluv Posts: 7

    @skeeter5 said:
    my 98 sebring convt.will not start when it gets hot.i can wait a few minutes(45) and it will start.when the car is hot,i do not have spark.help please.

  • angewa26angewa26 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 2.4 Chrysler denting that everytime it warms up it making a rattling noisy when I push the gas..I done changed plugs wires and good gas...crankshaft censor and the timing ..the mechanic said something is throwing the timing off electronically please help
  • Hi there, I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring Touring 2.7 GAS. It has had stalling problems for over a year now. It finally just crapped the bed today. Wont even start up. Changed numerous amount of sensors. Thinking it may be the electronic throttle body. Has anyone else with the same model as my car changed that and had any luck? Anything helps. Let me know!

  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222

    Above, @rbender says there have been some recalls for some 2007-2008 models. Some vehicles with TPMS systems have unused wires that could corrode and short out, causing no-starts, dead batteries, and stalling.
    Recall #08V152000

    @fedupwithlemon said:
    Hi there, I have a 2007 Chrysler Sebring Touring 2.7 GAS. It has had stalling problems for over a year now. It finally just crapped the bed today. Wont even start up. Changed numerous amount of sensors. Thinking it may be the electronic throttle body. Has anyone else with the same model as my car changed that and had any luck? Anything helps. Let me know!

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  • twnoirtwnoir Posts: 1

    I have a 2003 Sebring LXi 3.0. I get no spark or fuel. Considering the ASD relay. Where is the ASD relay?

  • After reading about these issues I'm a little depressed. I was hoping to find others with my issues that had solutions.... I have a 2004 Sebring convertable that I just bought a few months ago. I check the car fax and it was great - previous owner took very good care of it with all the regular mileage check ups. When I have been driving for at least a half hour - it wants to stall with I come to a stop. It has only died twice, but started right back up. When it starts acting like it's going to stall out, I put it in neutral and give it a little gas till the light turns green. But it continues to act like that until I turn it off for awhile. I took it to a Pep Boys, and they just had me pick it back up without doing anything saying their diagnostics only gave them an electrical code and that I would have to take it to the dealer to run down any electrical problems and told me it would probably cost quite a bit for them to track it down. Does anyone have any information or answers for me? I would like to not go to the dealership totally dumb. Other than this issue it runs great.

  • I had a similar problem with my 04 Sebring. the electrical connector on the camshaft sensor was broke. It would slide onto the camshaft sensor but it would not clip so the connector was loose and not getting a good connection.I would check over all the connectors on all the sensors. I would also check over all the wiring looking for broke wires, grounds, and corroded wires. If that don't work you can try to clean the electrical connectors going to the sensors if that don't work try cleaning the sensors themself. you can go on the internet and find out what to use on the sensor to clean them. Good luck.
  • I have a chrysler pacifica 2006 model, at when i try to accelerate the car will be jecking.
  • secondly my tank vomits fuel, when i am re fueling, please you help me solve these two issues.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 5,116
    The fuel vapors and air that is in the tank when you refuel get pushed out through the carbon canister in the evaporative emissions system. The canister has to vent the air to the atmosphere through the NVLD (natural vacuum leak detection) valve and then through a filter. The filter may be clogged, or the NVLD may be sticking. You need to have this tested and diagnosed.

    The same with the misfire that you have described, it needs to be diagnosed by someone familiar with the manufacturer.
  • I have a 1997 Sebring jxi also and had same problem with fuses the fuse for starter alt and one more thing that fuse goes to then it was blowing fuses few times a day a friend told me to try a 25 amp fuse but nothing bigger then that slowed it down .then I decided to buy box of 25 fuses cause I was going through them so fast.now haven't blown one fuses kinda strange.my car has always had a mind of her own.
  • Sounds like you have a wire somewhere grounding out.And a shop wants a lot of money to go through to see what might be causing that everything on this car cost a lot 5-6 hours to put in water pump.tune up about 200.00-250.00 makes me miss my Toyota.LOL But got good deal on new top back window broke so friend found one at pickurpart for 120.00 top looks new.every where else wanted 2500.00 and they told me I couldn't just put a window in and yes you can.But now car won't pass smog she is burning oil.smog place said MIT be my CAT I don't think it is plus another 300.00 for that I THINK NOT
  • alans1970alans1970 Posts: 1
    my wifes 2002 sebring conv. runs good cold but after it warms up it will start jumping like running out of gas and the warmer it gets the worse it runs till eventually shuts off at low rpms to the point of not starting (still turns over but wont fire). then after it cools down it starts and runs fine till warming up again. engine light is on. what could cause this. a crank sensor or egc sensor?
  • chaos64chaos64 Posts: 1
    Hello all! I also have a Sebring convertible 2.7 nickel and dimmer myself. Same issue. I am a retired tech. I'm going to throw a few things not mentioned and I see many people having the same frustrating issues and spending a lot time and money. Don't always replace what the scanned trouble code states. The trouble code stored in your cars memory only tells you that the sensor(s) are operating out of their normal range. That sensor is part of many other systems and all it's doing is communicating ( tattle tailing) to you that something made that sensor operate out of its programmed bounds. If you are lucky, if many codes pop up when the car is scanned its most often simple to pinpoint and I would investigate the system that's in common with those sensors. Okay! What I have found with the hard start on theses engines is one of three common fixes. #1. Vacuum leak. Loose or swollen vacuum hoses either cracked or oil soaked. The cheapest fix. That's the most overlooked item and I find that as the number one problem. #2. Mass air flow is dirty and needs cleaned. Believe it or not..you can buy the spray can for about 6 bucks at any auto parts store and you can do that yourself. If you can't remember the last time you had it cleaned then do it. That probably will fix your issues. #3. This is the big one and also overlooked. The timing chain tensioner needs replaced. That gets pricy because of the labor involved. All 3 of what I have mentioned are the top items that I have experienced with my 2.7 engine and customers that I have helped get their cars back to running top notch again. I really hope this can help everyone. Thanks.
  • I have a 98 Sebring jxi convertible that the tach works intermittently. I watchedaa video on u tubeaaboutresoldering some cconnectionson the ccircuit board, tried i, andtach started wworking but ssuddenly stoppedagain. Is tthere anything else I should b looking forto rresolve this issue?
  • My 1999 Sebring convertible was stalling regularly with no warning, and at any time - as describe in these discussions. I read through things, and noted the single best solution seemed to be to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor, so I did. Took an hour or so, but the place on the engine isn't too awkward - just need to remove the ECM computer, the EGR tube, and get the cruise control out of the way. Once replaced, the car has run without any problem, and it is fun to drive again. Thanks to you all for sharing your problem and solution!

  • I replaced my crankshaft position sensor, map sensor had the plugs and wires changed on my 1998 Sebring JXI convertible and am still having a stalling problem. It doesn't do it all the time, but I can be sitting a traffic light and the rpms will drop and the oil light will come on and the car will die. It starts right back up, but this is really annoying. Has anyone else had this problem and if so how did you fix it.

    Thanks James
  • So I have a 99 lx with the 2.5l and the distributor went out so I replaced it, but it still wont start. I haven't had time to see if there is spark, but I am assuming not. Any suggestions? In desperate need to fix it.
  • tplankatplanka Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    My husband and I bought a 2002 Chrysler Sebring convertible about 3 weeks ago, didn't have it checked out before hand, knew I should have, DARN!
    Love the car, however, for the first two weeks it drove perfect, however knowing that the struts/ball joints need to be repaired. Since then, the car wouldn't start, had a friend of mine, mechanic check the fuses, it was the starter/relay fuse, replaced it, car starts, but the fuse would blow every two or three days.
    Now, when I drive it, 35-40 mph, it dies, it will restart in neutral, but then it hard shifts to drive.
    I've looked at the forums and thinking that it may be the Crank sensor?
    I'm actually going to call the small dealership where we bought it and tell them what's going on, only paid $2100 for it, AS IS...Not sure whether they can and will do anything, but if they don't I will check with the Lemon Law here in Florida. Any ideas, comments welcomed.
    Thank you for looking
    Teresa
  • 2004 sebring convert.. sometimes (not always) the speedometer will peg when the car starts then drops to zero and all is fine. ... also sometimes the car will run rough for a second and stall then start right back and run fine. today the car stalled after being driven a block and filled with gas .. it ran rough the block home and died in the street .. about 10 minutes later i got in it .. it started (kind of) hard and idled rough/fine ..i drove it into the driveway it died half way in .. started right up and went into the garage .. it idled fine but when given gas would rev then upon taking foot off gas would drop idle and die .. (once or twice) then start back and idle fine. after about 5 minutes of sustained idle it ran well enough i drove down the street no prob, around the block no prob, to the store about 10 miles no prob, back home no prob used it to do some running around errands no prob. ...so... yeah!!! no problem (until next time) .. the speedometer issue makes me think a ECM but i hate to think in that price bracket when i'm guessing. .. i've read about the EGR,, Crank and MAP sensors and i'm going to clean the mass air flow sensor .. (should be done anyway) but i need the car to be reliable any ideas will be appreciated. oh and BTW it has a new fuel pump and filter. .. all that seems to check out. it has done this for years but maybe once a year and never for any length of time .. today was a wake up call.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Get the car scanned so that you aren't working in the dark. Guessing can be more expensive than paying for a diagnostic.
  • Hi so most of you know that car come with the top post battery if it's in your vehicle it must be changed to a side mount or they make a kit for the battery to be moved to the back that vehicles top post battery touches the hood it's a common problem shortens the battery out cause rpms to drop car to stall etc 
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