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Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems



  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    Sounds like the mechanic doesn't know what the problem is and wants you to throw some money his way. I suggest you take your car to another mechanic; even if you have to pay to have it towed. Good luck.
  • chriscapochriscapo Posts: 2
    I had a 98 sebring lxi ran great 80k miles. all of sudden at traffic jams or coming to lights it would stall.. sometimes start right back up sometimes take 20 minutes. So i started with new plug, wires, pvc valve, fuel filter, fuel pump, cap rotor and even new distributor. Something told me this aint right still doing the same thing. so i decided to gamble and go buy a cranshaft position censor 64.99 autozone. had a mechanic install after he insisted this would set off the engine light which wasnt going on. long stoy short he did it and its been fine since then..iff u are having this problem please start at the crank shaft position censor. will save u alot of time and money. which I had started here.. good luck and sometimes when the car is not setting off codes mechanics dont know what the problems are without just trying new things which cause u money
  • chriscapochriscapo Posts: 2
    My car 82,000 miles and all of a sudden at traffic jams or traffic lights it would die. I thought right away needs a tune up. so i installed new wires,plugs, distributor, cap, rotor, fuel filter, pvc valve, fuel pump,battery. bbom day later did the same thing. so i took a gamble went and bought a crankshaft position Censor. installed it and walla!!! car has been running fine. my compuiter was hooked up to 2 different computers to do a code reading and nothing was coming they mechanics told me same thing they dont know what it was.. TRUST ME CHANGE CRANKSHAFT CENSOR
  • vampire87vampire87 Posts: 10
    your gonna want to replace the map sensor on the manifold 1 min job.
    and if that don't work id say do replace the speed control sensor on the trany also easy. just remove the front driver side tire and its located on top of the trany in plain sight. good luck and let me know how it goes.
  • My 98 did that same thing. It would start sometimes and sometimes not for awhile. It was my antitheft relay. On the 98 it has three relays on the firewall and it was the middle one. You can try that. It worked for me.
  • 03 sebring seems to fun fine, but has been stalling and dying when coming to a stop and then trying to accelerate. will lose all power and need to turn key to off and will restart ok. have cleaned the idle air control valve and replaced throttle position sensor, but is still stalling. mechanic having hard time to duplicate as doesn't always have problem. no error codes on his diagnostic computer. need ideas for next step. thanks
  • I had the same problem it turned out to be the fuel pump and the fuel filterinside the pump. Check to see if the filter is on the outside of gas tank if it is there change it.if not replace fuel pump.BOB
  • I have a 97 Sebring and it died while I was driving down the road. Since then I have not been able to get it to start back up. When I try it will turn over but it is not getting any fire to start. Anyone have any suggestions what it might be?
  • billg13billg13 Posts: 4
    You mentioned that you are not getting any "fire". I'm thinking that you mean you are not getting a spark and already confirmed that. I've replaced my distributor at least twice, so you might consider that. From reading other forums, the distributors do go in these cars. But I'm just guessing based on my history and your post.
  • Thanks! Yeah I am referring to spark. I had it hooked up to a computer and it didn't throw any codes so I was at a total lose. I will try the distributor hopefully it will work. Thanks again
  • mlc13mlc13 Posts: 6
    My 96 Sebring conv has 68,000 mi. I've been the only lucky owner to date.

    Saturday after driving 40 mi without incident, the car would not start when it was time to go home. I have not experienced any stalling issues cited by other postings.
    Do not believe it's the battery, as lights, clock and radio worked. The car started this am before calling the tow truck.
    Similar issue has happened in the past. When I take it to the mechanic, he can not replicate and thinks I'm crazy. Some postings have indicated a crank shaft position sensor or fuel filter inside the pump. Has anyone experienced this same let's not start and start a couple hour later problem? Any solutions?

    Also, my brakes have been noisy forever. Also thought they were not very effective. Replaced the master cylinder which helped with the stopping, although the noise is back.

    Rear defrost doesn't work, read a posting to replace entire window, for the amount of driving I do, would like a more economical solution if there is one out there.

  • mlc13mlc13 Posts: 6
    Hi there,
    Were you able to resolve your issue? Sounds very similar to what I am experiencing. Thanks in advance - MLC
  • I have had similar issues and it seems like you can fit into a few of my situations. Ive been told taht the front hubs tend to go out on our sebrings so i believe that is your noise issue. towards your car not starting i believe is your anti theft relay, get your back window installed without the defrosters, my window fell out and the day my defrosters fell off my car stopped starting, also you should have your speed control sensor looked at. if your car is stopping out of no where while you are driving then it is your map sensor that needs to be replaced , it is way easy do it your self in 1 min. if you would like to talk more on the subject please feel free to email me at [email protected] thanx. im going to have them uninstall my anti theft and alarm on my car in hopes that that will fix my problem. if worst comes to worst you will need to replace the computer in your car.
    Good Luck!!
  • I have had similar issues and it seems like you can fit into a few of my situations. Ive been told taht the front hubs tend to go out on our sebrings so i believe that is your noise issue. towards your car not starting i believe is your anti theft relay, get your back window installed without the defrosters, my window fell out and the day my defrosters fell off my car stopped starting, also you should have your speed control sensor looked at. if your car is stopping out of no where while you are driving then it is your map sensor that needs to be replaced , it is way easy do it your self in 1 min. if you would like to talk more on the subject please feel free to email me at thanx. im going to have them uninstall my anti theft and alarm on my car in hopes that that will fix my problem. if worst comes to worst you will need to replace the computer in your car.
    Good Luck!!
  • i have a 99 crysler sybring converible as i drive it ,just dies for no reason,try to start back wont start for few mins then it finally starts back,took it to shop,he said i need computor replace in it,does that sound like what happen to other cars also
  • Hi all! I went through all pages on this blog trying to find help, clues to our Chrysler Sebring problem. I must say - what a sad reading…. And the worst part is that people keep running around the same problems – and no help from Chrysler or dealers. No wonder they went down!
    Anyway, recently we had the same situation like Eva (#52). The car suddenly wouldn’t start. No cranking at all. After 2 jump-start attempts and one fuse blown, car started and without problem made 55 miles from work to home. Next day we went to do regular oil change and decided to replace battery. We were waiting a call from the service when to pick up the car, but instead they told us that car would start, 2 more fuses blow, and die. Then car would not start again at all, no any cranking sounds. The mechanic suggested to replace starter (~450$) and then see what else could be wrong.

    After reading the post from Eva (#52) and some others, I feel that changing starter would not help. I’ve noticed that after replacing battery (and remember, Sebring’s battery location is hard to get!) people had analogous problems with their Sebring’s. May be its a some trik with reconnecting the battery...?

    Please let me know if somebody was able to resolve the problem and what was that.

    Good luck to all!
  • stewamostewamo Posts: 2
    My 2006 Chrysler Sebring won't start. I parked it and three hours later would not start. I have had no problems at all before with starting so this came as a surprise. We have tried jump-starting and also checked the fuse under the hood and still won't start. My headlights, power windows and horn work but my radio or clock does not. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Could it possibly be the starer? I cannot afford to keep buying parts to rule everything out.
  • mlc13mlc13 Posts: 6
    I have been experiencing similar issues for years. (occurs once every year or two, I don't drive much at all) I just had the starter replaced; hopefully that is it, but who knows.

    Not much help I know, if it is diagnosed would love to know. Good luck.
  • stewamostewamo Posts: 2
    Thank you for responding. I am going to have the battery cables check first and if still can't get it started will have it towed to have diagosed. I will let you know what I find out.
  • Did you find an answer on the battery and cable issue?
    Also does anyone know how to test the coil as it is inside the distributor on a 97 sebring 2.5
  • mlc13mlc13 Posts: 6
    Hi Gang,
    Had a reconditioned starter and new brakes installed last week. The green beauty chose not to start this am. Based on other postings, I am going to suggest the crankshaft position, map, speed control sensors and anti-theft relay to the mechanic and see what happens

    If anyone has any other possible solutions, pls advise.
    Appreciate your help in advance.
    Thanks - MLC
  • Hello,

    Were you able to figure out the problem. I have the same problem now when it is in gear. But when stopped and not moving.

  • I am dropping the car off this weekend; drove fine this am, but cannot comfortably continue to have this recurring issue! Will let you know.
  • My 2005 Sebring did the exact same thing tonight. I'm not sure if it's the Crankshaft Position Sensor or something else. How easy or difficult is it to replace that sensor?

    Has anyone actually fixed the problem themselves?
  • After my car has been sitting out all night, when I get into it in the morning, it starts, but wants to die and shakes when I am idleing, until the car is at its normal temperature. When it is at its normal temperature after a few blocks, it runs fine. Any suggestions? This is normally happening when the temperature at night gets about 60 degrees.
    I just called the mechanic and he said he guessed the idle control valve... which is a $600 issue? My car has about 93,000 miles on it.
  • Hey did you figure out what the problem was with your car? Mine is now doing the same exact thing. No issues or signs of issues. Now it just won't start, but the headlights,horn dome lights work. No radio. Was thinking it was just the battery, but after reading all of these blogs, not sure what it is. Been hooked up to jumper cables for about an hour now. Still nothing. Help!!
  • Hey, It could be a number of things the ecu probably needs to be re programmed. It sounds like a problem with your anti theft system, things to look into are the anti theft relay, the control module, speed control sensor, map sensor, fuses, terminal connectors/wires. also check the dealer ship for any recalls. sometimes the keys go bad and you have to have a new one made. or the fingers in the ignition get stuck.
    Let me know when you figure it out.
    Thanks Dan
  • I never figured out what it was. It stopped doing it and has pretty much been fine ever since. The only thing I know is I will never own another Chrysler ever again.
  • HI i am the proud owner of a 96 sebring jxi. yesterday i came out to my car and went to start it the car started but but stalled out seconds later and continued to do this after multiple attemps so i tried cleaning multiple different things... and still same thing. at this point i was rather fed up with the car and verry dissappointed because i have never realy had any problems like this before. soo after thinking for a little while i decided to try unhooking the batery in hopes to reset the computer or something.. so i went through with that and unhooked the negative terminal and waited a few minutes hooked it back up and it started just fine so if you are experiancing any of these problems try this before you go tearing stuff appart
  • Seems to be moisture related. Won't start if it sits out in the rain overnite. Set it in the garage overnite and it will start. Let it sit outside for a week and it won't start. Put it in the garage overnite and it will start.
  • I have a 05 Seabring, which is having issues "stuttering" after sitting out for a few days, and this morning wouldn't start after I had pulled over for a moment to scrape my windows. The temp im my area is at its coldest for the year, and this is a new issue for me. Any other suggestions, other the Idle Control valve, that sounds costly.
  • Hello i have a 96 sebring changed battery now it cranks but wont start,It started fine before i took off battery I hope someone could help me thanks tom
  • You need to have your ECU reprogrammed, Car dealerships and a little power pack they plug into your car that saves information, while the battery is disconnected. with out it you will erase your memory
  • Its amazing to find a discussion group associated to my issue. This just reaffirms that I bought someone else's problems. I had been in search of buying a convertible for the past year. I have test drove a few Sebrings and practically fell for one that was really affordable. I knew I had to work on it but I did not know how much a headache it would be. Nevertheless, I hope to find the solution here.

    So far these are the items I replaced. Brake Pads, Brake Rotors, removed radiator and flushed it. Replaced are major hoses to radiator. Radiator cap. Thermostat. Head Cover, spark plugs and spark plug cables. Air intake manifold. Engine Mount. this is off the top of my head. The car was running just fine for a good 200 miles. Then the radiator started to malfunction. I installed a kill switch to manually start it myself. But I say anymore. After I had replaced my head cover and spark plugs, I wasn't able to drive faster that 70 MPH. It would start to back fire. Then I was able to past smog to EGR Valve. Replaced EGR Valve and started to ride fine till my radiator fan stopped working. While fan was constant on. I was driving on the freeway and my car died at 60 MPH. Now, i found replaced the sensor that turn on my radiator fan when it heats up. However, my engine dies every 10 miles and I have to wait on some side street for 10 to 45 minutes to start. Tonight, I had to tow it to a auto-shop. Now I might go pick it up before I spend any money on it due to this forum.

    I have read many issues but few solutions. It has to be electrical. A friend of my said it might be the computer board. I cant go on hunches. My Service Engine light does turn on (Ever :( The weather has been cold and it did rain today. Someone mentioned that moisture might be an issue. I would like to know from anyone what is the cheapest way to go about this. I know my way around a junk yard now. and Pick a Part has a 50% sale this weekend in California.

  • Hi--have a 2001 Sebring convertable. Several years ago, the radio started to die, fuses helped and then the radio had to be I'm blowing fuses for the starter and like Alicia, in message 137, everything but the radio and the starter spring to life. Go to start the car, and NOTHING. I have a brand new battery, so I know that's not the problem. When the car was new, there were electrical problems with the reading light not turning off and draining the battery, BUT, this is the problem: with no warning, and everything working except the starter and the radio, I find out it's a fuse. Replace the fuse, fine for a while. Still, I'm wondering if there's is something inherently wrong with the RADIO circuit that's affecting the starter fuse which it apparently shares. Anyone have this problem? Anyone solved this problem? I can't afford a new car.......if I could it wouldn't be a Chrysler Sebring.
  • Well, apparently I'm not the only one with these issues. We all have similar problems that we cannot seem to get fixed. Most recent problem involves not starting and dead batteries. Over the summer had random times when it needed to be jumped. Two months ago I replaced a "dead" battery. One month ago had to replace a "defective" battery. A week ago it wouldn't start again and had to jump it and take it back in for service. So far, the charging system has been tested twice, we've gone through four batteries. We know now that there is a short somewhere between fuzes #4 and #11, but they cannot seem to pin point it. I bought the car with less than 10,000 miles on it in 2006 and it's been a problem ever since. Off the top of my head, we've replaced the hydraulics for the conv. top, the motor that operates the conv. top, a switch for the turn signals that was causing a short in the horn and cigarette lighters, the horn itself (all of these in the first 4 months I had the car). Recently, I had to replace a front tyrod, along with the brakes, rotors and tires. Now, they cannot seem to locate the short that is causing the drain on the battery. Obviously, there appears to be a problem electrically which is affecting all of us. I noticed a recall for 2007-2008 Sebrings which can cause these problems, but my car does not have that feature. Fyi, it is a TPMS, which automatically measures the tire pressure and warns you if it is low. Apparently, the ends corrode and cause a short in the system resulting in stalling out, dead batteries, not starting, etc. :confuse: Beginning to think... :lemon:
  • I forgot to mention some things. My rear defroster has had repeated issues and even came detached at one point. Now, I basically just assume it won't work, then if it does, I'm happy. I've also had the noise in my front tires, as well as a scraping sound in the rear right. I've had it looked at a handful of times, but noone can find the sorce of the sound. Everyone says that the shocks, etc. seem fine. Originally, it was only if someone was riding in the backseat. It doesn't matter anymore. I can be by myself, hit a bump, and it sounds like the tire is coming through the back of the car. :confuse:
  • I have scraping sound coming from passenger rear and the brake disk looks a little scraped. My husband thinks it's faulty break pads, but technicians say pads look fine. My oh my. The electrical problems take the cake though--had two fuses blown for starter/radio in the last two days....I've had a good recommendation for an electrical guy, and my husband thinks it might be an easy fix, like a frayed wire/bad connection causing heat and blown fuse, but we shall see. If I find out the problem, I'll certainly post it here. Seems like we could all use a little help.
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    :shades: Aside from my water leak which was a easy fix by cleaning the drain plugs, I've had no problems with my 05 Sebring GTC. It runs like a dream. It also tows my 18' Neport sailboat with no problems. (get a trans cooler if you ever plan on towing with one) I am not sure if it's a problem I had never tried the AUX power port near the cup holders and found it did not work. Dead wire to the lighter but and easy fix by installing a new lighter housing and rewired it using a add-a-circut fuse to the fuse box.. you can use the ground wire thats already there. problem solved. :)
  • Okay--my fuse issue has been the one under the hood that governs the starter/radio. I have not used my radio for a week, and my car continues to start (of course, I replaced the fuse in question). My husband has found a good electrical guy, and we're waiting to see what he has to say, and I will keep you posted, but in the mean time, if I don't use the radio at all, my car continues to start, which tells me that the electrical problem is in the radio circuit. Keep it off, and above all, don't turn off your car with the radio on, and apparently your car will start. All of my trouble has started with the ignition turned off but with the radio left on at shut-down (left to shut down when the car does, but not at the source of the radio). I'm no Einstein, but I think the radio must arc during the time the engine is turned off, if indeed the radio is left on at shut-down.

    More when I have the information.
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    Wow that's one I have never heard of. Has the car ever been flooded or had excessive moisture? Also is the Radio OEM or after market?
  • Replaced sloppy flywheel that broke loose, car ran great for 2-3 days, then walked out, cranks but no spark. What's up wit dat?
  • We have a 2008 Sebring Hardtop convertible. when stopped at a light the engine revs a little by itself causing the car to lunge forward unless you have your foot hard on the brake. It will also die for no reason when making a normal stop. Anyone run into this before?
  • It's lunging because that's the response to it trying to stall.....stalling is your problem
  • Hi,
    My 2007 Sebring has started having these same problems. Stalling at a red light, and also stalling while turning right into a parking space. I'm taking to dealer on Friday. I hope that it is the crankshaft sensor or map sensor that everyone here is talking about. Have you had any problems with your car since this?
  • Has anyone come up with a definate solution to these stalling problems at lights? When you're at a red light, the car sometimes seems like it will stall, but doesn't. But also, sometimes it does stall. Starts right back up. Also, stalled yesterday when turning right into our driveway. Not a good feeling driving this car. Love the outside look of this car, but if this will not be fixed, will have to sell/trade.
  • I had a freak thing happen. My flywheel broke loose and was freewheeling. The engine was constantly doing different things, including stalling. Go to auto parts and get free code check, then check connections to that sensor that you get the codes from, especially, crankshaft and camshaft sensors. Code-check is your shortest trip to the problem. be sure to check that flywheel
  • Thanks Chettimarelli, it is going to the dealer tomorrow. We'll see what they come up with.
  • To those of you who've had problems with no start/no radio...blown fuse in my case: I have a fabulous mech who traced the problem going back through the radio, going deeper and deeper and found that the FACTORY had initially installed a connector/circuit that was unneeded and was causing a fuse under the hood to blow, making the starter and radio not work. They (Express Tire for me) plan to let Chrysler know that there is an unneeded factory-installed connection that is shorting out the electrical that serves the starter and the radio.

    To those of you who have the same problem, ask your mechanic to uninstall the radio, and trace the electrical from the radio back as far as they can go and find an unused connecter that hooks up with the mechanism for the under-the-hood starter mechanism, disconnect it, and then you should be good to GO.
    I wish I could give you more specifics, but this is a place to start, and apparently, when a good mechanic can investigate this, it's somewhat easy to find. My mechanic saw it immiately. An "aha" moment.
  • mlc13mlc13 Posts: 6
    Thanks Cindy - I will let my mechanic know. It has been sitting on his lot for the past month. We wanted the 'no start' to happen for him so he could look at Chrysler's electrical diagram and see what the issue was.

    What year is your car?
    I have a 1996 jx convertible.

    Will post results of my mechanic
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