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Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems



  • Ok, so I can start the car when it is cold and it runs fine, no problem.

    Once it gets up to temp, it starts to skip and lope and sputter....if I come to stop it will die and the still at temp it won't start nor stay running.

    Once it cools down it starts up agian like there is no problem.

    I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor but it didn't help.
  • OMG I have like 6 error codes!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • Have a 96 sebring that I parked one night and it will not start again. Something is locking out the ASD relay for the injectors. Computer shows no trouble codes. Replaced ASD relay in case it was just not making good contact. No help. Does anything besides the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor stop the computer from energizing the ASD relay?
  • I have a 1997 Sebring that the battery died. It sat for about 4 mo. until I had it replaced. Now the problem that I have right now is that my odometer does not change it has stayed the same from the momment that I hve picked up the car, also the temp., mpg meter, and avail miles to drive function that is on the center part of the dash is not working as well. If anybody has had this problem any bit of information would be helpful. I just hope it is a quick cure and not to much $$$ to fix. Thank you all for your suggestions in advance.
  • I have a 96 also and is doing the same thing. Would like to know if you found out the problem and if so what was it. I've had crank sensor replaced and tune -up but still have problem when we first start out.
  • Just purchased my 08 Sebring in October 08 and it has stalled on me 4 times. It stalled on me while in a drive thru and I couldnt even turn the wheels I will be contacting the dealership. Thanks for the info I will let them know to check the map sensor
  • Tonite I was driving my 2005 4 cyl. sebring sedan. I hit a bump. All of a sudden my oil light pop on engine was stalling and making a clapping noise. Does anyone knows the anwser to this problem. The engine didn't come. But, the car wouldn't accelerate when I driving 40 to 50 miles per hour. Help please.
  • I share the same problem as many of you on this board. I purchased my 2007 Chrysler Sebring January 2008. Within 1 month, my car radio would change stations. Within 1 to 2 months, I noticed my airbag, brake, engine, and seat belt lights go on and off throughout the drive. I took the car to the dealership. They could not duplicate the issue with the radio. They did "repair" the light issue. They said there was a recall notice. After this issue was repaired my car started to feel as if it was stalling. I took the car to the dealership twice. They said there was nothing wrong. This attempted stalling continued until October. My car actually began stalling. The last time was two weeks ago at 8 pm in 39 degree rainy weather. I am a single parent so of course this occurred when my kids were in the car. The car started back up after 10 minutes. I took the car to CARMAX where I purchased the vehicle. They along with a local Dodge/Chrysler dealership said there was nothing wrong with my car. I even mentioned to them that I read everyone's suggestion about a Map Sensor. I was told that there was no codes for a Map Sensor so they could not repair the Map Sensor. I am so frustrated with CARMAX and Chrysler. I am paying for a car that keeps stalling on me! :lemon:
  • bleakbleak Posts: 2
    my 07 sebring touring started stalling a few days ago. i notice when the engine is idle in drive/reverse/neutral the rpms dip low like every 30sec-2min like its going to stall. eventually it dies after a while of this. also happens while making a slow turn. just dies completely no warning lights or anything. it starts back up no problem. happened as i was pulling into the post office and nearly got rear ended. glad it hasnt happend in an intersection yet! this is very dangerous not to mention embarrasing. bought new in sept 07 and has 9100 miles on it atm. also engine seems to have a gurgle to it when i press the gas pedal - its a really noticeable gurgle if you gun it. also the car seems to have a downshift to it sometimes as i'm slowing somewhere in the 25-30 mph range.

    other notable problems include the radio unit not turning on one day but hasnt happened since; and the power lock button on the drivers side door stopped working and needed to be replaced

    taking it into the dealer tomorrow 02/13/09

    i hope this MAP sensor that has been mentioned is the problem
  • Went out to start the car this morning and it would not start. Moved the shifter from park to neutral and still no start so we pushed it forward about 6 inches and still nothing. We then moved it forward several feet and it started right up. This is not the first time this has happened. It seems to happen 2 to 3 times a year. We have replaced the battery and alternator but are still having this issue...we are thinking it could be a sensor? Does anyone have any ideas?
  • emanofozemanofoz Posts: 2
    This may or may not be related. I had a past Sebring that the instruments were intermitant. Was advised it was because of "cold solder joints" and to remove the instrument cluster and lightly re solder each solder joint. I did and this solved a multitude of electrical problems.
  • tbirdrustbirdrus Posts: 3
    Stalling at low speed issue seems to be one of the most frustrating (and dangerous). Just want to throw an idea.

    I noticed that when I start my Sebring 97 and idling RPM is at 750, the car runs OK. If it starts flactuate between 500 and 750, I am in for a "fun" day. It starts stalling when RPM falls below 500. What is going to happen if I increase my idling RPM to 1000 or higher? Will it fix the problem by not allowing RPM to fall below 500? Did anybody try this?
  • Hello,

    I just bought a 97 sebring- it seems like a great car- but it stalled on me today - it started up again no problem- this happened twice- Do you have any suggestions?


  • tbirdrustbirdrus Posts: 3
    Well, you are up to a "nice" ride. Check all your fuses first (inside and under the hood). Make sure you pluck them all out, not just using electronic check. Make sure that they all correspond where they are supposed to be.
    I get to the point to consider that it is not any sensors which are responsible for stalling. Check your driver belt pulley. I think it is a problem.
  • sebring0sebring0 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Sebring JX Convertible. I've already dumped over ten grnad into the car. Now when stopping at stop signs or red light, the car sputters and likes to give out. I contacted Chrysler, and I was transferred to a call center in Mumbai, India. Finding an English speaking employee was harder than trying to get my car fixed. The dealer claims it can be a number of things, then admitted to the fact the the 2.4 liter engines in Chrysler cars have been known to cause problems. Nice to know now. Can anyone give some advice, on what my next step should be? The car runs great, as long as you don't stop.
  • vampire87vampire87 Posts: 10
    have a new key made for it and programed:) good luck
    sometimes the sibrings just stop recognizing the key.
  • vampire87vampire87 Posts: 10
    have you tried programming a new key to your car. they have a bad habit of not recognizing keys.
  • vampire87vampire87 Posts: 10
    try programming a new key to your car and replacing the crank shaft position sensor. good luck let me know how it goes
  • I have a 1998 Chrysler Sebring that was given to me and it drove fine for about 3 weeks then all of a sudden I was driving down the road and it didn't want to go and tried to stall out. I got it towed to a mechanic who took two days to tell me that it doesn't show up on the diagnostic and it needs a new computer. He wants to charge me $700. The car still starts it just tries to stall when you drive it. It is still at the mechanic but I have other people telling me that the car runs so the computer is fine. Can anyone give me some advice or know what would be wrong with it?
  • 1997lxi1997lxi Posts: 2
    I had a 1997 Sebring LXi with similar symptoms. Mechanic replaced the Exhaust Gas Recirculation E.G.R. Valve located directly behind the engine adjacent to the firewall. That corrected the problem and the repair cost about $150. Good luck.
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