Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems



  • Have you tried to clean the throttle body with Seafoam Yet? I'm going to try this tomorrow on a 1999 convertible sebring with the same problems....we replaced the TPS today and there is a fast idle that can't be slowed unless you put your hand over the air intake...if it's not the idle air sensor it's because it's dirty? So I'll post back after we try that to see what happens.
  • bsmommybsmommy Posts: 2
    That has been done by a mechanic. Today I drove the car and it did not sputter or stall at all BUT the check engine light came back on. I hooked up our code scanner and it displayed "can not link". Luckily, my dad was able to find me a free PCM.. major bonus for me because I was about to sell the car out for parts and take on a car payment. Hopefully the new PCM will take care of the problem. I've been reading through millions of posts and it seems that I have replaced every thing possible. If the PCM doesn't take care of the problem I will just try to sell the car. Someone suggested to me that it may be the distributor or a wiring problem but all of that was replaced new recently. I have all new sensors. UGH this is such a major pain and I am still lost on what it could possibly be. I'm crossing my fingers that it's just a bad PCM.
  • i have a 96 sebring jxi convertable, the car will start and shut down after about 4 seconds of running, the headlights are flashing and a small red light is also flashing on the dash. i think its a security problem anyone have any ideas on how to reset or isolate the problem.

    the car will crank and not start if you do not turn the key totally off, but if you turn the key to off, then the car will start and run for the 4 seconds
  • Try unlocking the car from passenger side door...otherwise go into dealer and just ask the Service Manager
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    Do you have and after market alarm system? Sounds like your alarm system ignition cut out is kicking in. Dispable the alarm system and see it that helps
  • no just whatever the car came with
  • I have a 1997 Chrysler Sebring. It did not run for about three months because i was out of town. i just got it working now. The car runs fine while it is cold. As soon as the temperature reaches halfway the car will hicup and eventually stall. If i pour cold water into the radiator after a few miuntes it will start. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem. All help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you
    bernardo valdes
  • Check the motor mounts mine was making some weird noises there also
    have a video of the sound here
    well hopefully it wasn't as much of a pain in the @$$ as mine was after some parts modifying and some grinding to the frame there in now and quiet as a church mouse
  • It acts like it is the alternator, however we have replaced it along with the battery, after charging it will run fine for a while then the lights dim, radio shuts off, lights go out and it starts losing power. I am completely stumped. Any one have any ideas?
  • Easy....pull it in and have them tested.............................................!
  • it shows no codes and the battery and alternator test good.
  • Sounds like a bad ground somewhere..
  • Ok. I am really frustrated with this car. April '10 I purchase a 97 Sebring Convert. It was a one owner car who apparently kept in excellent condition and it looked and ran like a dream. Well, for the first yr it was great until the winter hit. I hit a deep pot hole. All was fine for another couple of months, the my passenger side ball joint, arm and axle all broke $660.00. Then it went into limp mode on a constant basis. I would have to pull over, turn the car off and then the restart it in order to continue on my way. Well, my mechanic said that it was some wiring and sensors, had those replaced $380.00. No sooner did I leave the lot that it went into limp mode again. Mechanic said it was the main computer. Had that replaced $580.00. After about 3 weeks of fabulous driving, I crossed an intersection and it was like my car hit a brick wall. Everything died. Mechanic towed it and it took 2 weeks to figure it was the distributer assemby. had it replaced 650.00. After another week of great driving it went into limp mode again. Turns out the PCM is bad now. Needs to be replaced. $550.00. So I shouldn't have any problems at all now except for a tiny oil leak and a small exhaust leak in the engine. Mechanic said I can still drive it with no problems until I can get it fixed at an oil place. Ok I said.
    Well, here I am a month later with a dead car in the driveway. Why? Because as I was driving today my car started to act like it was out of oil and gas. Sputtering, coughing, lerching, jerking and then it would all die. Turn the car on immediately after and it is shaking so much you almost get sick! I had to pray for green lights because the minute I take my foot off the gas it starts to shake and shudder and then stall out. Unless I get a green before it can and I punch it and it slooooowwwly makes it's way up the road and then it lunges forward and runs normal until I take my foot of the gas and then it crawls. I can't seem to get a definitive answer for this.

    Has anyone had this problem?
    Can I fix it myself? As you can see, Im already well over 2000.00 in repairs for this car.
    It has 116K miles on it and it's from Florida.
    This car has been a thorn in my mechanics side for months now.

    What is going on?!!!!!
    Please Help
    Thank you in advance.
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    Mitsu V6? or the 4 banger? Can you get the codes? My first guess would be MAF.
  • Whenever im at a stop in traffic my car idles very low. shakes and then cuts off. it will start right back up. Also not getting any gas to the enigine when first taking off. Putting it in the shop Monday but want to give the mechanic some ideas so im not throwing away money. Should i tell him to start with the cranshaft sensor????
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    edited November 2011
    Year of car, engine? Does it do it all the time? recent issue is this after sitting for a bit and does the engine light come one?
    First thing to check is MAF ... MASS AIR FLOW a bad one will cause stalling, rough idle, stalling and the car will usually start right back up but lack power.
    The Mechanic needs to check the engine Code first before anything else. You should check them also so it will give you a general Idea what could be wrong .. Run the car for a bit so its warmed up about 2500 rpm cycle through everything Reverse, drive neural turn AC on off etc..then turn the car off.

    With engine not running turn the ignition key to ON, OFF, ON, OFF and then ON again (do not start the car or crank then engine)

    You must do it with-in 5 seconds the codes will begin to flash.. The light will blink the numbers first digit then pause the second digit.. EXAMPLE..
    The cam sensor will flash pause flash that is code 11.
    Intake Air temp sensor is code 23 it will flash flash pause flash flash flash.. Just examples....
  • Its a 2003. I put it in the shop last Monday. Mechanic just called and said he doesnt know what the problem is and cant fix it. Said he is putting the engine back together and that i can pick it up on Thursday. :confuse:

    I will do the the on and off thing you mentioned when i get it back and maybe that will help me out.

    Also, It only starts stalling out when the car heats up. When i first drive it it will run fine like nothing is wrong with it. After about 15 minutes of driving, the enging will heat up, and im in trouble.. thats when the stalling starts.

    I only owe about $2500 more and ive already put soo much money into fixing this car i dont think i can handle throwing away any more money if whats wrong with it is a MAJOR problem. :sick:

    Should i just try taking it to a dealership and see what they can do for me? Maybe trade it in or something. Im a female and i just dont wanna be screwed out of any more money. CHRYSLER SUCKS!!
    Thanks for the advice.
  • Ok my'97 was doing the same thing.

    What happen was. The Distributor assembly burned out the first time. Had that replaced and it still didn't help all that much so took it back and found out that the 3 spark plug cables under the manifold had corroded and were arching to all the metal around them, including my new distributor effectively burning it out again causing me to stall and cutoff like I wasn't getting any gas. Now that it's all been replaced, she runs fine, not perfect, but no more engine light or stalls.
  • I have the same problem with my 07 2.7L sebring. I brought the car back in 2009 as a 2nd hand. after drove for a few months, the car started stalling when idling or stopping. i ve tried to dismount the battery and restart the car computer, but nothing seemed working at all. i asked staff at Canadian tire staff and he told me that it may have many reasons behind it. too bad that i can't return to the dealer cause the warranty is over. ps, usually my car stall right after i put it into a full stop.
  • jalvejalve Posts: 1
    It sounds like the hydraulic valve lifters. I had mine replaced and the noise went away.
  • I have a 2001 chrysler sebring lx . when i drive it and the car gets warm and i shut it off then come back out to start it the car will crank over but won't start till it cools down then sometimes when it starts the engin will act as though it can't find it's idle then smoothes out and runs fine I have replaced starter relay the E.S.D. relay and the camshaft position sensor each time i replaced a relay it would start and run fine for 2 or 3 times of start and restart after warm even disconnected the neg post to battery to try to reset computer didn't change anything still having the same issues went to autozone to get a diagnostic and all it read was abs so i don't know what it is but it seems like it' a relay or fuse to me any ideas???
  • I read that your dad is a mechanic and you have the same year sebring i have. I would like to know what is draining my battery. if i do not start my car at least every two days the battery dies. had the battery tested and it is good
  • its most likely a map sensor or the crank sensor found out the hard way
  • 08 sebring. 2.4 engine. It shut off at a red light today, no warning, no engine light. I know there was a recall about the wiring and TMS but I called Chrysler and they said it had been fixed. Called a dealer next. They said not to even bring it in unless the engine light was on. I seen there were a lot of complaints about this. I can't really drive a car that shuts off. Any one know what the problem is?
  • Hello, I have a 97 LXI sebring with the 2.5 v-6. I have had it to a reputable garage for very fast idle of 1400-1500rpm's. When driving it seems to have no power , The garage showes no codes, and is getting good fuel pressure through the lines. I am not sure where to go at this point, it is in excellent condition with 146,000 miles, I did not get into replacing wires and plugs just yet due to the removal of the intake, but am hesitant only to do that because I have never seen that cause a motor to run fast, but thats why I am looking for help, there is an aweful lot I do not know yet, which way should I go to troubleshoot this problem further. Thanks
  • I have a 2007 sebring... when I went to work the car was fine when i got off that night went to the store to put gas in went to started the car it didn't start. all the lights come on, radio and horn work but the will not started i tried to jump it to see if is the battery but no help, This is first time it ever did that. :confuse: :confuse: SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME OUT!!! mother for 3 kids my only cay
  • I've had several older Sebrings. Every time that's happened, it's been a wire or connector has come loose somewhere. Visually inspect everything for that. And/or have it checked for a code. A parts store will do that for free - if you can get it there. If it starts and runs, by accident, have it tested anyway - cause it may do that again. Wish I had a 2007.... :)
  • josepejosepe Posts: 2
    edited March 2012
    Ok everyone here it is my 2001 sebring wouldnt start when the engin was warm... i would disconnect the negitive battery wire,reconnect it and it would start and run fine but when i shut it off and try to restart it i could hear clickig under the hood checked the fuse/relay box opened it and the relays were clicking and you could feel the relays clicking so i replaced 2 or 3 also replaced the camshaft position sensor no luck took it to an auto parts store had them hook it to diagnostic and only read abs huh not that either. took it to an auto mech and they said it was likely the ecc that is the electric control computer in the car bought a new or reconditioned ecc from napa auto parts for $435.93 .Core deposit was $62.69 after core $373.24 then had to bring the car and the ecc to the chrysler dealer to have it flashed /programmed with my car they installed @Rick hendricks chrysler jeep dealer in sc savana hwy they charged me a total of $144.30 so all in all $517.54 the car runs starts and makes me love the car again!! hope this helps
  • Hi, I have just got home from leaving my car in the store carpark as when I got in to start the thing I got the donE message that you had. Did you ever find out what this message means? I am searching online, but no luck finding out so far... hope you can let me know if you found anything out...
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    Done error code usually means the memory has been cleared or that no codes were found :shades:
  • i have the same problem. i checked recall items and spoke to chrysler corp about it. apparently it was a previous recall, but they are supposed to contact me, sept 18th 2012 to remedy. it seems that it is a tpms (tire pressure monitor), which can cause all the other problems, i.e. engine shutoff, electrical issues such as wipers not working, etc. i can repost once i get info if you need me to.
  • wznhntwznhnt Posts: 3
    edited September 2012
    i spoke to chrysler corp about a similar issue w/ our 2008 sebring. it is a tpms (tire pressure monitor). don't know if yours has one, but you may want to use the same corp. i'll repost when i hear from corp tomorrow, sept 18th 2012
  • i have a 2008 sebring. same thing....engine stall, electrical issues.i checked recalls and found a tpms (tire pressure monitor) is the cause. it will cause the engine to stall. it also will cause electrical issues. i'm waiting on claims w/ chrysler corp to contact me tomorrow (sept 18, 2012) and i will repost.
  • Any news on the TPM? I have 2008 convert'l w/elec prob. Started and ran fine. One day left cell phone to chg in console elec plug about 2 hrs with eng off. Ran batt dwn. Jumped, and ran ok. 3 wks later, engine off, radio on for about 15 min. Batt dwn. Both times, plus at another dealer chk, batt cells chk'd ok, alternator ok. Thoughts? bob505
  • I have an 2004 sebring gtc. I have found through research that these engines are really bad about engine sludge--which could definitely cause sure to be vigilant with oil changes and oil treatments such as Lucas may help.
  • I recently bought a used 1007 on the ride home it stalled but then started going again with me doing nothing..............the battery light came on

    had the battery checked its 100% fine

    autozone said it might be a sensor.....................any ideas? or advise

  • Thanks for the information--------where is the sensor?
  • hi,
    i have 98 sebring lxi. . . .. yesturday i went to start my car and it wouldn't it just clicked like the battery had been flooded. we jump started it and let it run for bout 5 mins. i went to turn around and half way through the turn it died. so after work we jumped it again let it stay connected for a few min then let it run for about 15 minutes. again went to turn around and half way through it dies. i thought it was the alternator. today my friend comes to take the alternator off to get a new one and car starts right away no problems. she revs it a little, turns it around no we take it to auto zone down the street to have the alternator tested. (also for a year check engine light was on, now it is off and when tested says passed no codes). battery wasn't charge enough to test the alternator. take it out and inside to charge and it just wont charge. buy a new battery install and test the alternator. passed fine. back up left and went home. my friend goes to turn it around and goes from drive to reverse and it dies. put in nuetral restart go to reverse and is fine. drive down the street go to turn around and again from drive to reverse it dies. drive around the block and is fine. later go to make same turn around and from drive to reverse it dies. start in nuetral go to reverse and is fine. at a stop light it hesitatated a little before it went. got to where we were going and just to see i went to reverse from drive and it was fine. the only difference was i went in a straight line and didn';t have the wheel turned at all. . . . . could this be my power steerring or something else. my dad and several mechanic friends are at a loss and don't know what it could be. . . . . . . please help!!!!!
  • Check your fuel pressure
    (I'm from Sayreville NJ but living in South Louisiana now...I have a '99 JXI)
  • I have just started having the same problem with my 2008 Sebring. Will lose power suddenly, and idiot light comes on. My mechanic has replaced to different items in the last month, after reading codes. Have had it back for 2 days and light came back on this am, loss of power, etc. Love the car , but got it because my old car was strting to nickle and dime us to death. Now don't know what to do, as this one seems to be doing the same thing.
  • the 2008 and some 2007's had a electrical recall. I think there are 8 total recalls. But here is the link on 4 of them .. See if yours is part of the recall and if they will repair the car if not save your money and sell it looks at KIA, Honda, Toyota or Ford breviatedid=1617

    Like most car makers they choose a small range of cars using the vin numbers then say Oh your car is not part of the recall in order to save money. If they get caught or sued then they EXPAND the recall like what happened to Honda and Toyota lately. Chrysler used to mean quality uo until the mid 70's when to Cordoba / Aspen model came out then it was just straight down hill!
  • I am having stall problems (at stops or while idling and can be immediately started again), along with RPMs revving randomly, and cruise control randomly turning off.
    I have replaced multiple parts, including the MAP sensor. Now I have to have an electrical diagnostics in the next few weeks at the Dealer (can't get in any sooner). No recalls on this issue for this year/make. I would recommend anyone with a 1996 or 1997 Sebring with similar issues call Chrysler Customer Service at 800-853-1403 and ask a file be created for your vehicle. They did call the dealer I am working with, so they know I have been in touch with Chrysler. No recalls can happen unless people make these issues known (power to the masses and all that!!). I will be happy to report any solution, but I can tell you I have replaced the timing belt, water pump, fuel pump, spark plugs, fuel filter and have regular oil changes and use additives to reduce water in the gas. And no, I cannot just run out and buy another vehicle...I am all in at this point. Thinking I didn't have this problem any more, I have a new roof on the it LOOKS GREAT...big deal. Again, call and report your could help all of us with this year and issue.
  • joa2joa2 Posts: 1
    I have the same exact problem. By any chance did you find out what the problem was? This sucks. I hope you're not still having the same dangerous problem. I would really appreciate your advise. Thanks man.
  • machinist3machinist3 Posts: 1
    edited May 2013
    check the fuel you are using,they are picky when they get some miles..if 93 octain don't help,check your throttle body, it might help to clean around the baffle..spray heavy with throttle cleaner after you wipe out. spray with motor running with a little can also use sea foam through a vaccume line, keep engine revved while doing so...will smoke a lot while doing this, that is normal, allow to run with a rev till smoking stops. let me know if this helps helped mine..
  • stanstilstanstil Posts: 1
    you may check the engine coolant temperature sensor. it tell computer the temp of motor and the computer uses that info to determine fuel and air etc to give the engine...if it is bad it will not set off engine light but send bad info to computer
    ex engine hot sensor says its cold it dumps more gas than needed car stalls etc etc it is a simple fix cheap
    it has nothing to do with temp you see on dash totally separate sensor for that ECT is for pcm only
    engine coolant temp sensor change it out good luck
  • howie22howie22 Posts: 2
    1996 Sebring Hesitating (Misfiring) & sometimes Stalling:
    Getting code on Scanner Tool = Acteon ‘AutoScanner Plus’ - CP9580

    P1391 = Lost of Camshaft crank
    Info’ from Scanner Tool; what could cause this problem:
    1) Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP)
    2) Replaced Distributor Assembly
    3) Replaced Flex Plate (fly wheel)**
    4) Repair CKP Sensor Connector
    5) Replaced Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

    Parts Replaced (in order):
    1) Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) (2 times) --- After 1st (aftermarket) sensor change; hesitation went away for about 1 year…
    2) After 2nd (CKP) sensor (Chrysler part); hesitation restarted after driving only a few miles…
    3) MAP Sensor & its connector --- At this time I was also getting code ‘P1296’ (No 5V to MAP Sensor) Hesitation restarted after driving about 30 miles (have not gotten this code P1296 since …
    4) Fuel pump --- Was recommend to change… Again hesitation started after a few miles….
    5) Distributor (Camshaft Sensor built in) with a new one aftermarket…
    6) Sparkplugs & their wires at the same time as the distributor was replaced; with no help…
    7) Powertrain Control Module (PCM) – Ran for a few miles then the problems come back very intermittent…

    Also I have ohm-out wires (harness) from sensors to PCM; moving harness to see if there is an intermittent open, looked OK…

    The car seams to hesitate more when:
    1) Moving from a slow to a faster speed or going uphill (engine under load) …
    2) Also accelerating from a stop…
    3) The ‘Check Engine Light’ does not come on all the time when the engine hesitates…
    3) When the engine does stalls-out (which is very intermittent) it always restarts with no problems…
    4) **I cannot believe the Flex Plate would be the problem… What do you think?
    Does anyone think it could be the timing Belt?

    As of June 6, 2013…
    Also getting code:
    P1296 = No 5 Voltage to manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor
    Info’ from Scanner Tool:
    1) Replaced Manifold Absolute (Map) Sensor
    2) Replaced Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
  • I have the exact same problem only my ride is a 1999 jxi with the 2.5L. Do you have the 2.5L as well. I was thinking maybe the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.
    one other note: the ONLY error code my car spit out was P0304 - cylinder 04 misfire.
    I would appreciate any feedback you may have.
  • howie22howie22 Posts: 2
    edited July 2013
    Yes I have the have the 2.5L… I found this video look it over… My problem is still not solved, but will look into some of the points shown on the video... l
  • shhagstershhagster Posts: 1
    This may be nothing but my ford ranger had starting issues for about a year ( replaced fuel filter and the pump )sometimes after it warmed up it just wouldn't restart for a few hours then for no rhyme or reason it would start. End result it was my f#$%ing $20 fuel relay. Been running fine ever since.
Sign In or Register to comment.