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Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • If your car has a power antenna it may have shorted out. When you have the radio on and turn the key off it sends a signal to lower the antenna. Have the mechanic run the car with the radio on and while it is running unplug the power to the antenna in the trunk. This will leave your antenna up all the time so you can use the radio without repacing the antenna. If it works you can replace the antenna later, $60-80 plus labor.
  • Pull you crankshaft sensor and see if the flywheel hit it. Also make sure you got the right flywheel for your model as the sensor get its trigger from it. If the sensor is bad the computer will not send power to the shutdown relay or the fuel pump relay. :shades:
  • we bought a car the guy said it s got a starter problem we bought a brand new start and when we went to hook up the battery it was sparking? my husband found the problem it had a burn in the positive cable and so did the ground and they were hitting each other, now we have lights and other dings bells but still no start, we removed the starter thinking we burned it up but no it fine, were could we be rong?
    we cant afford a mechanic do to my mother n law is fighting cancer so all our money goes there but i despiratly need this car for me so i can get to my docs do th handicap sit. can you give any ideas? thanks
  • Is it cranking?
  • i have a 2001 chrysler sebring conv i bought it a month ago and it has had problems since i bought it none of the lights on the inside worked and the brake light wouldnt work then we got our stereo installed and automatically everything worked i just was relieved and now the car wont start i replaced battery knowing it was a bad one i thought this was it but it wasnt i never had no stalling problems but it will click but no urn over im thinking the starer or someone said starter sylenoid im not sure how to spell but u get what im saying if ne1 has ne suggestions please help before i spend all the money to find out
    thanks
    melissa, ca
  • cindy48cindy48 Posts: 5
    Hi Mic13, my Sebring convertable is a 2001 lxi, and I've discovered more about my no-start problem vis a vis radio/starter: my dad owned it before me, and he had a 12-cd changer installed (after market, of course). So, now my car starts fine, every time (my preference of course) and my radio works........the 12-cd changer does not. There is obviously a HUGE electrical problem with the radio circuit. I usually don't listen to the cds, so I can live with this, but....
    All the best--hope you can solve your problem, and I'm sorry to get back to you so many days after you posted.

    Cindy
  • In refferance to the 2008 Sebring stalling & lunging foward, could u let me know what they found? I am about to go and pick mine up for the same problem and they told me it needed updates, we'll see but post a message if anything is different thank you
  • Im working on an 03 Sebring Covertible 2.7L. Engine was blown (overheated several times) Replaced it with good used engine. Used Original Flexplate. Replaced cam sensor and crank sensor. No spark. Put new ecm programmed for the car in. Engine started and ran for a few seconds then no spark again. Any ideas?
  • I have a 2001 sebring convertible . It currently will not start . Not even will you hear it trying to turn over. The radio wont work as well. We thought it was the battery so we tried jump starting the car that didn't work. The battery turned out to be fine, so it has to be something else. The night before the car stop working someone tried to break into the car and the alarm went off. Since then, the car hasn't started I am not sure if it could possible be from that or some other issue. Another thing I have tryed is changing the fuses for the radio and the starter fuse. When I turned the key , you could hear the car try to turn over once and then nothing again. I really need help trying to figure out what I can do to fix this. Please help. Thanks
  • gerry430gerry430 Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 sebring convertible and it won't start. The car stalled out and then a week later, turn the key and nothing, blank. Checked fuses and the #8 fuse was blown- 20amp start/fuel; put new fuse in an it blew; then checked relays and the #34 relay for Radio,fan was dead; replaced it and the 20amp and tried to start car, it turned over and almost started but seemed like something was holding it back from a successful start; then the 20 amp and relay both blew. I may have a short, but this kind of problem of course is difficult to say the least to identify the source of the problem. Anyone have this exact of similar problem? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • framisframis Posts: 1
    Wanted to thank Edmunds forum for solving my problem.
    Sebring would stall at any random moment and then start back up either immediately or 2 to 8 hours later. Problem would then repeat. Solution found on Edmunds site: replace the Crankshaft positioning sensor. Picked one up at Kragen Auto for $65.00, part # M09247 or CSS48 in a BWD engine management technology box. My Sebring has a 2.5 liter motor. The location of this sensor is under the distributor, attached to the bellhousing by one hold down bolt. Remove the bolt, slide the sensor out of the bellhousing, unclip from plug and replace. This took me all of 1 hour in my driveway and saved the car. This procedure required me to remove the air intake hose, battery and battery tray so as to access the right area. Awesome site!
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    Not sure if this helps, but it sounds similar:
    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1073e3/151#MSG151

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  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    Thanks, framis! Hope you'll stick around :-)

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  • ok after reading all the post on this subject ive decided to have the following replaced on my 1998 chrysler sebring convertible. the crankshaft position sensor. the map sensor and check the locking clip on the distributor plug, can anyone tell me where these items are located? thanks very much in advance for your help and contributions.
  • vampire87vampire87 Posts: 10
    map sensor is on the top left part of the engine. its a ten second fix.
    crank senson you have to take off the front driver side tire in order to access it.
  • My 2004 Sebring have had the Engine stalling problem since I put ONLY 6,000 miles on it. Mostly in the summer but it have stalled in the cold as well. Especailly when i get off the Highway and come to a city stop light it almost always shut off. Also the REAR DEFROST doesnt work when the car is idling. Also the fan relay switch fails every 3 years, meaning I have NO heat in Winter or NO air in Summer. Dont let those rebates lure you in to buying any Chrysler Product nor DODGE they are the same. Imagine trying to make a left turn when and it stalls while a Semi is coming, OMG......It have happened to me, but with a car.
  • I dont think the car is worth it myself, because something else will go wrong after fixing all that
  • kreetykreety Posts: 1
    removed air cleaner to throttle body and can put fuel into the throttle body and car will start and run smooth until of course it runs the small amount of fuel out. car has sat for last few monthes and she parked because of fuel smell, but said it was running fine except for the smell. also when I started messing with it it was out of fuel. got any ideas on what the problem is
  • Obviously lack of fuel pressure...needs to be pressure tested at engine...then track the loss back from engine to tank....probably a leak where the smell is coming from...try to find it
  • cuzo03cuzo03 Posts: 2
    my 1997 sebring convertible jxi decided all of a sudden not to start, i jump started it, it ran fine til i shut it off i have to keep jumping it, what could be causing this problem? My rear window was busted out and when it rains the inside of my car gets soaked, i thought maybe something got wet that shouldnt have and that is causing my problem, but i am not sure. If anyone knows please tell me
  • cuzo03cuzo03 Posts: 2
    When i start my car the motor will tick sometimes really loud, i have checked the oil and it was full, if i run it about ten min it will stop but then when i shut it off a while, and restart it it will do it again anyone know what this is?
  • Duhh..test your battery
  • Test your oil pressure...especially with high mileage
  • I need help, hopefully someone has had the same problem. I have a 98 Sebring jxi limited convertible. About 2 months ago, it occasionally would start and shut off with in a second or so. I could take the key out and it would start right back up. It did this maybe 4 or 5 times. A week ago while driving the security light came on. Got home next time car started normally and security light was off. Now it is dying more frequently and the security light sometimes comes on and stays on and it is starting to shut the engine down using the security system and wont start for a couple of hours. Is it my key, the ignition lock cylinder, or something else. Dont want to start guessing cause all are expensive fixes. The dealer wants $100 to put it on the computer, but the security light has to be on for him to do it. Thanks for any ideas of what it could be.
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    edited August 2010
    I am not sure if the 98 has a chip in the Key, Do you have a spare key to try and start the car with. If the Key is Gray it's got a chip!
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    Try using the ignition key to get fault codes:"on-off-on-off-on and leave on" doing that in 5 seconds or less elapased time. Then watch the odometer window to see if the mileage reading changes to show any 4-digit numbers preceded by a P. If that doesn't work, then look for an Autozone parts store nearby where they will do a free code readout. Ask for the numbers, then post them some manuals list the codes.
  • Yes, it is the gray key. Unfortunately we dont have an extra key. Got up this morning and it started fine and the security light didnt come on. Going to talk to my mechanic this afternoon. Hopefully he can fix the problem without having to go to Chrysler.
  • I will try this and see if it gives me a code. We hooked it up to our code reader and it didnt come up with anything. Hopefully this way it will. Thanks!
  • Ok so I am so so frustrated with my 2001 Chrysler Sebring Lxi it is not even funny.
    If I could pay someone to steel it I would.

    Ok so her I go: I recently had to replace my clok spring and prior to replacing it I was having starting issues with the car. It take me anywhere from 1-10 tries before it starts. I get an error code "done" and I need to know what it means. I had a friend diconnect the remote starter thinking this was the problem, but to not avail. I also had recently started carrying a key for a 2001 dodge stratus on the same key ring, I have since removed it thinking it might also have been the culprit and again nope.

    So now I am desperate and broke and need to be able to specifically find out what needs to be done to get the car running correctly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have a 2006 Sebring, the fuel pump whent out, replaced it. fuel pump kicking on now but still dosnt start. all it dose is cranks over hits here and there. any ideas
  • 20A Fuse burns out when key is turned to start position. The vehicle has a grey key, a new battery
  • dano853dano853 Posts: 17
  • 1. ~Yes, my 06' Chrysler Sebring HAS been flooded/excessive moisture... It turned out to be something having to do with the air conditioner. The heater coil was going out and a couple other issues that I can't recall. Water/fluid would leak into my car all the way to the back seat.
    REPAIRS- Had to take out my entire dashboard...cost about $2,000 Time-72hrs

    2. ~Car was leaking all of my coolant. Had to replace the thermostat housing and gasket... Cost- $115 Time ~had to wait 3 weeks for the part to come in...

    3. ~Car would just shut down after engine would start and stall...
    Never really got fixed, mechanic couldn't find anything wrong and eventually the problem stopped...

    4. ~Now my heater does not work unless I'm on the "gas" meaning driving...if I'm sitting still it immediately switches to cold air again, weird, squeaky sound coming from under my dash...thinks its the fan and it may be going out...

    5. ~Now I'm experiencing the "car won't start" that people are discussing above. My battery is good, put the key in and turn it nothing happens. So sound, engine doesn't turn over, nothing...complete silence. Turn the key to the "on position and radio does not come on...I now know the radio and starter share a fuse. Really!?? stupid if you ask me...

    ***If you have this car and are able, GET RID OF IT! Chrysler needs to help those of us that had no clue about the recall situation, or weren't having problems during that time period, but are experiencing EVERYTHING now...just makes no sense to me...
  • I have a 2002 Chrysler Seebring Limited convertible and just replaced my starter. When I drive my car and it gets warm and I turn the car off, I can't restart it. If I wait about 25-30 minutes when the car cools off, it starts back up again.
  • Be more specific...does it not crank...or just not start...??
  • cmdentcmdent Posts: 1
    I had my 2008 Sebring in to the dealer yesterday, they say it needs an update and this is a known problem. I asked iif t was a recall, no it is not and would cost about $184.00. This is a potential accident waiting to happen. I was at a stop light when it decided to lunge forward into the intersection. Calling Chrysler
  • Recently i have purchased a 09 chrysler conv. sebring. The car was perfect the first month of sale (lol) then beginning in feb. of this year the vehicle has a bouncing feeling when u are in traffic. When you slightly take your foot off the brake the car starts shimming and actually makes u sick. We brought it back to the dealer and after the third time trying to fix this problem we were told that it is a problem in the transmission i.e. (supposedly a fuel problem). Now the dealer says there is nothing i can do for this and that the lemon law doesnt apply to the purchase of this vehicle. My question is if the dealer and the manufacturer are aware of this and it was not told to us at sale isnt there something the consumer can do but wait for a possible fix to this problem. We were actually told by the dealer that maybe in a month or two a solution may come. I really do need suggestions or comments on this and appreciate your time in this matter.
  • tradwinztradwinz Posts: 2
    Purchased used. Started stalling. Reading discussions on the net. I am not a mechanic but a novice with only basic tools. I've concluded the following:
    1999 Sebring convertible was stalling. Would drive and the car would just lose power and stall. No engine lights or codes light up. Plugged in a computer at AutoZone and nothing.

    First these cars make it difficult to changed the spark plugs and tune up. 3 of the plugs are under a manifold. So I am concluding nobody changed plugs in a long time.

    I changed the plugs and wire set Cost $60.

    Many posts about these cars stalling. But most refer to changing the crankshaft sensor and cleaning the EGR. Also there is mention of the MAP sensor and Pugs and distributor.

    I changed plugs and wire set. $60 normal maintenace and I was right my plugs were bad.

    Installed MAP sensor Very easy fix... $50 it was a little dirty
    Cleaned the PCV very dirty easy fix

    Installed new crankshaft senor $52 a little difficult. I was not able to work under the car. So with the air intake already removed and I removed a part(don;t know what part it was but it has 2 nuts holding it on at the strut wall, something to do with starter I think) from the drivers side strut had 2 nuts only. I was able to get my hands underneath to reach the 1 bolt for the crankshaft sensor. Sensor was difficult to remove seemed frozen. Taking care not to break it I used a pry bar set and needle nose vise grips and was able to push the senor out by tapping lightly with a hammer using some leverage of the visegrips and the pry bar. The plug snaps in a hole just able the sensor. I just pulled the snap out and was able to easily unplug the sensor in full sight. New sensor just fell into it's hole I bolted plugged the senor in and pushed the snap into place.

    Installed a new EGR. $56. Mine was dirty and the diaphragm made a squeaking noise . Probably could have cleaned and wd40'd but I installed new. Removal was not bad. A few bolts and it came out easily. Had to remove a transmission control. It was 3 screws and the bolt that held the wires onto the assembly. Careful not to bend or break any of the wire connections on this wireset. Once this transmission control was out you can get to every part of the EGR easily.

    The whole job took me about 7 hours of working time and about hour on the internet Google and reading. I am not a mechanic and had to read and figure things out on my own. But so far the fix has worked.

    This is what I spent.
    MAP Sensor $46
    Plugs and wire set $58
    Crankshaft Sensor $52
    EGR $49
    Pry bar set Advanced auto $20
    Needle nose vise grips $10
    a couple of slim Jims $ 3
    Bottled water $.50

    TOTAL $238.50

    The way I figured I saved 4-5 hours of labor cost of a mechanic at $95 per hour. and I learned something. The tune up alone was the most difficult. All the bolts and the back bolts were the hardest to get to. Have no idea what a mechanic would charge for a tune up.

    Driven car about 125 miles so far and no problems. What was the cause? I have no idea. But my guess was the crankshaft sensor and the EGR. The EGR was very dirty and the Crankshaft sensor was also badly damaged. Although banging it with a hammer didn't help much. But the sensor inside the hole was really bad.

    I am now going to flush the crankcase with motor flush and install new synthetic oil since I read these cars have a tenancy for sludge buildup. Synthetic oil apparently does not build up as easily. I am also going to change the fuel filter but I will let a professional do that since I saved money already.

    Any other ideas for 4 me and others please feel free to reply.

    Thanks everyone for posting you were an inspiration and big help to me in getting this job done.

    Oh yes I saved money at Advanced Auto using online coupons. My savings was approx $27 avg saving was 15%.
  • Hi.

    Well, I finally had fixed my stalling issue. There are two possible things that might be wrong. One is the Computer Module might be bad. I didn't replace that. What I did replace was the Thermostat sensor. And I made my idle a little bit higher. Me and my buddy couldn't figure it out. I had enough when I was driving 70 mph on the fast lane. Then the car just stalled. I was like "WTF" So i took it to a mechanic. One those cheap one in a slum area. They do good jobs cause they need the money. Try replacing all sensors. Its cheaper if you find them in a junk yard. If you don't have the book, get one. Helps a lot.
  • Did you ever get this resolved? I have the same problem. I have gone through three batteries since Nov 2010. I Drive it every once in awhile. I thing it may be the Alternator.
  • bringingitbringingit Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 sebring convertible JXI w/ 2.5l v-6. Had the problem of no start which is common to the internet posts on this make car. Ended up replacing the: crank postioning sensor, distributor (which includes the cam sensor and coil as they are built in the distributor), upstream 02 sensor, catalytic convertor, fuel filter, egr valve, map sensor, throttle positioning sensor, engine coolant sensor, air intake temp sensor, and battery! Still had a problem of stalling after the car started. Because of the multiple misfires and the air/ fuel mixture being rich (cause of converter failure), there was a lot of carbon build-up in the intake plenum and upper cylenders which affected the vacuum flow for the map and air intake temperature sensors to operate correctly. There were NO CODES that appeared other than "multiple missfires" on all 6 cylinders. The fuel filter waschanged as it was origonal (car now has 188,000 miles) I was ready to change fuel pump, but did a pressure test and yielded a steady 51 lbs. of pressure which is spec. Ultimately carbon and sludge became my issue to "smooth out" the stalling. Due to the electro (signals to ecm)-mechanical (vacuum) configuration of the sensors, carbon build-up restricted the map, egr and air intake sensor to produce a "valid" signal to the ecm which caused the car to run like something from hell. I read about Seafoam and injected it into the brake booster vacuum line, crakcase, and gas tank per intructions on can. Within 30 minutes, the car was running like there was never a problem. This was an expensive "experience" but I believe it will outlast the relationship I plan on having with the car.
    Good Luck!
  • tradwinztradwinz Posts: 2
    If you are going thru batteries then it is almost assured your alternator.
    There are quick tests and easy too, you can do to see if it is your alternator.
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    Thanks for walking us through that, tradwinz!

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    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

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  • fordnut460fordnut460 Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    Crusing at 70 it shut off no warning. Check engin light on. Turns over no spark. Can hear fuel pump run an got pressure at rail. Code for cam sensor came up. Replaced crank an cam sensor. Clearly d code. Now i turn key on an hit starter. Turns over still no spark an cam snsor code comes back. Timing belt is there an fine. Pleases help me. This is my only car. I did love it till now. :confuse:
  • dano853dano853 Posts: 17
    edited July 2011
    I've been having variations of this problem for almost a year. Recent repairs include: Honest mechanic replaced sensor (crank or camshaft, cant remember which) R&R'd fuel pump and filter; and cleaned tank and lines. Now he is leaning towards the computer since its not revealing any useable codes, although what i read here indicates thats not uncommon. I replaced only the front plugs and wires... dreading pulling the intake for the back 3 on this 2.5 ltr. The above fixes improved relative performance, but have not eliminated the core symptoms. After I had the car for only a few weeks it started stalling after first daily start. It would also lose power/ not respond to acceleration from a stop unless I coaxed the gas pedal gently. If i put the car in neutral , accelerator would respond almost immediately, and sometimes I could get the rpms up in gear with my foot on the brake. This would be worse in wet weather, but would lessen once the car reached running temp. On hot dry days it was only an occasional nuisance, and after my initial trip it would rarely occur at all til I started it the next day.
    But now its raining every day and has gotten intolerable ...and dangerous. It almost always starts fine even right after one of these stalls.
    Sometimes I can coax only marginal acceleration from the pedal, and as soon as i get up to 30 or 40 it may just lose power, then diesel or stall, completely unresponsive to the gas pedal. Normal acceleration from a standing stop, will almost always cause a loss of power. And yet if it catches power under heavy acceleration, I'm good to go. Neither of these are feasible practices for consistent driving.

    If I do manage to get it up past 45, the odds of stalling decrease and it only misses intermittently. It had not given me any problems on the highway... but i wouldnt even attempt that now.

    Other than that vague rpm/torque correlation, there seems to be little rhyme or reason which leads me to think there may be multiple causes with overlapping symptoms.
    Any help is appreciated and I will post the successful fix..... unless i put a bullet in it first.
  • chettimarellichettimarelli Posts: 16
    edited July 2011
    I had a broken flywheel/flexplate which constantly shifted, changing timing contanstly....mostly ran retarded with very little power
  • Hey! Glad I found you guys. This car is driving me crazy! It idles a little rough sometimes not all the time. It started stalling. At first just stalled at stop sign or red light. Now stalls when you go to slow down for a stop while car is still in motion. I have heard all kinds of theories. fuel pump or filter, crank sensor, spark plugs... has anyone else had a similar problem. the car still runs, starts the first time every morning,and even starts right back up after it stalls. just dont want to waste a bunch of money replacing parts to eventually fix the problem after $800 worth of parts.
  • VACUUM
  • bsmommybsmommy Posts: 2
    Hey guys & gals-

    I have a 97 Sebring Coupe, V6 2.5L. In March of this year I had the engine replaced because one of the Cams went on the other. Replacement was the cheaper option. My bad decision was going to a shop recommended by a relative. The work they did was below average and I left the place with a car that stalled out. My dad took it into his work and a guy from Chrysler worked on it. There were hoses that weren't hooked up, etc. Got the car back and it started stalling out when coming from a stop. I took it to another shop today. They looked it over and noticed that the fuel injectors were not sealing to the engine. Fixed that and got a new starter, replaced TPS. Car still stalls out when coming from a stop. I can prevent it from stalling by taking my foot off the gas BUT it's still a dangerous situation because I have 2 babies I have to drive around. Guy at shop thinks it could be the PCM. I am going to look for another tomorrow and pop it on. Anyone have any ideas of what else it could be? I am at a loss and so are the shops I take it too. Already have put 2k into it since March of this year. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!
  • I'm having this similar problem with my brother's 1999 sebring convertible...I've been doing a lot of research on this, and we are trying to replace the sensors, today he tried replacing the Throttle Position sensor and there was an issue with idling too fast, so reading all the other posts on here we are going to see if it's the idle air control, and use the seafoam cleaner next. It may be too much carbon buildup in the throttle body or air intake and other people said they would try the Seafoam spray, first to clean everything. Just some information I collected from reading countless posts on the computer.
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