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we cant afford a mechanic do to my mother n law is fighting cancer so all our money goes there but i despiratly need this car for me so i can get to my docs do th handicap sit. can you give any ideas? thanks
thanks
melissa, ca
All the best--hope you can solve your problem, and I'm sorry to get back to you so many days after you posted.
Cindy
Sebring would stall at any random moment and then start back up either immediately or 2 to 8 hours later. Problem would then repeat. Solution found on Edmunds site: replace the Crankshaft positioning sensor. Picked one up at Kragen Auto for $65.00, part # M09247 or CSS48 in a BWD engine management technology box. My Sebring has a 2.5 liter motor. The location of this sensor is under the distributor, attached to the bellhousing by one hold down bolt. Remove the bolt, slide the sensor out of the bellhousing, unclip from plug and replace. This took me all of 1 hour in my driveway and saved the car. This procedure required me to remove the air intake hose, battery and battery tray so as to access the right area. Awesome site!
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1073e3/151#MSG151
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ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
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crank senson you have to take off the front driver side tire in order to access it.
If I could pay someone to steel it I would.
Ok so her I go: I recently had to replace my clok spring and prior to replacing it I was having starting issues with the car. It take me anywhere from 1-10 tries before it starts. I get an error code "done" and I need to know what it means. I had a friend diconnect the remote starter thinking this was the problem, but to not avail. I also had recently started carrying a key for a 2001 dodge stratus on the same key ring, I have since removed it thinking it might also have been the culprit and again nope.
So now I am desperate and broke and need to be able to specifically find out what needs to be done to get the car running correctly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
REPAIRS- Had to take out my entire dashboard...cost about $2,000 Time-72hrs
2. ~Car was leaking all of my coolant. Had to replace the thermostat housing and gasket... Cost- $115 Time ~had to wait 3 weeks for the part to come in...
3. ~Car would just shut down after engine would start and stall...
Never really got fixed, mechanic couldn't find anything wrong and eventually the problem stopped...
4. ~Now my heater does not work unless I'm on the "gas" meaning driving...if I'm sitting still it immediately switches to cold air again, weird, squeaky sound coming from under my dash...thinks its the fan and it may be going out...
5. ~Now I'm experiencing the "car won't start" that people are discussing above. My battery is good, put the key in and turn it nothing happens. So sound, engine doesn't turn over, nothing...complete silence. Turn the key to the "on position and radio does not come on...I now know the radio and starter share a fuse. Really!?? stupid if you ask me...
***If you have this car and are able, GET RID OF IT! Chrysler needs to help those of us that had no clue about the recall situation, or weren't having problems during that time period, but are experiencing EVERYTHING now...just makes no sense to me...
1999 Sebring convertible was stalling. Would drive and the car would just lose power and stall. No engine lights or codes light up. Plugged in a computer at AutoZone and nothing.
First these cars make it difficult to changed the spark plugs and tune up. 3 of the plugs are under a manifold. So I am concluding nobody changed plugs in a long time.
I changed the plugs and wire set Cost $60.
Many posts about these cars stalling. But most refer to changing the crankshaft sensor and cleaning the EGR. Also there is mention of the MAP sensor and Pugs and distributor.
I changed plugs and wire set. $60 normal maintenace and I was right my plugs were bad.
Installed MAP sensor Very easy fix... $50 it was a little dirty
Cleaned the PCV very dirty easy fix
Installed new crankshaft senor $52 a little difficult. I was not able to work under the car. So with the air intake already removed and I removed a part(don;t know what part it was but it has 2 nuts holding it on at the strut wall, something to do with starter I think) from the drivers side strut had 2 nuts only. I was able to get my hands underneath to reach the 1 bolt for the crankshaft sensor. Sensor was difficult to remove seemed frozen. Taking care not to break it I used a pry bar set and needle nose vise grips and was able to push the senor out by tapping lightly with a hammer using some leverage of the visegrips and the pry bar. The plug snaps in a hole just able the sensor. I just pulled the snap out and was able to easily unplug the sensor in full sight. New sensor just fell into it's hole I bolted plugged the senor in and pushed the snap into place.
Installed a new EGR. $56. Mine was dirty and the diaphragm made a squeaking noise . Probably could have cleaned and wd40'd but I installed new. Removal was not bad. A few bolts and it came out easily. Had to remove a transmission control. It was 3 screws and the bolt that held the wires onto the assembly. Careful not to bend or break any of the wire connections on this wireset. Once this transmission control was out you can get to every part of the EGR easily.
The whole job took me about 7 hours of working time and about hour on the internet Google and reading. I am not a mechanic and had to read and figure things out on my own. But so far the fix has worked.
This is what I spent.
MAP Sensor $46
Plugs and wire set $58
Crankshaft Sensor $52
EGR $49
Pry bar set Advanced auto $20
Needle nose vise grips $10
a couple of slim Jims $ 3
Bottled water $.50
TOTAL $238.50
The way I figured I saved 4-5 hours of labor cost of a mechanic at $95 per hour. and I learned something. The tune up alone was the most difficult. All the bolts and the back bolts were the hardest to get to. Have no idea what a mechanic would charge for a tune up.
Driven car about 125 miles so far and no problems. What was the cause? I have no idea. But my guess was the crankshaft sensor and the EGR. The EGR was very dirty and the Crankshaft sensor was also badly damaged. Although banging it with a hammer didn't help much. But the sensor inside the hole was really bad.
I am now going to flush the crankcase with motor flush and install new synthetic oil since I read these cars have a tenancy for sludge buildup. Synthetic oil apparently does not build up as easily. I am also going to change the fuel filter but I will let a professional do that since I saved money already.
Any other ideas for 4 me and others please feel free to reply.
Thanks everyone for posting you were an inspiration and big help to me in getting this job done.
Oh yes I saved money at Advanced Auto using online coupons. My savings was approx $27 avg saving was 15%.
Well, I finally had fixed my stalling issue. There are two possible things that might be wrong. One is the Computer Module might be bad. I didn't replace that. What I did replace was the Thermostat sensor. And I made my idle a little bit higher. Me and my buddy couldn't figure it out. I had enough when I was driving 70 mph on the fast lane. Then the car just stalled. I was like "WTF" So i took it to a mechanic. One those cheap one in a slum area. They do good jobs cause they need the money. Try replacing all sensors. Its cheaper if you find them in a junk yard. If you don't have the book, get one. Helps a lot.
Good Luck!
There are quick tests and easy too, you can do to see if it is your alternator.
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
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Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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But now its raining every day and has gotten intolerable ...and dangerous. It almost always starts fine even right after one of these stalls.
Sometimes I can coax only marginal acceleration from the pedal, and as soon as i get up to 30 or 40 it may just lose power, then diesel or stall, completely unresponsive to the gas pedal. Normal acceleration from a standing stop, will almost always cause a loss of power. And yet if it catches power under heavy acceleration, I'm good to go. Neither of these are feasible practices for consistent driving.
If I do manage to get it up past 45, the odds of stalling decrease and it only misses intermittently. It had not given me any problems on the highway... but i wouldnt even attempt that now.
Other than that vague rpm/torque correlation, there seems to be little rhyme or reason which leads me to think there may be multiple causes with overlapping symptoms.
Any help is appreciated and I will post the successful fix..... unless i put a bullet in it first.
I have a 97 Sebring Coupe, V6 2.5L. In March of this year I had the engine replaced because one of the Cams went on the other. Replacement was the cheaper option. My bad decision was going to a shop recommended by a relative. The work they did was below average and I left the place with a car that stalled out. My dad took it into his work and a guy from Chrysler worked on it. There were hoses that weren't hooked up, etc. Got the car back and it started stalling out when coming from a stop. I took it to another shop today. They looked it over and noticed that the fuel injectors were not sealing to the engine. Fixed that and got a new starter, replaced TPS. Car still stalls out when coming from a stop. I can prevent it from stalling by taking my foot off the gas BUT it's still a dangerous situation because I have 2 babies I have to drive around. Guy at shop thinks it could be the PCM. I am going to look for another tomorrow and pop it on. Anyone have any ideas of what else it could be? I am at a loss and so are the shops I take it too. Already have put 2k into it since March of this year. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!