Hey I'm 19 and I just bought my first car. An 04 Tracker LT. It's sweet. I was just curious though as to what brand speakers are put in the car. Are they GM? and also does anybody have any pics of trackers with body kits. :shades:
Trust me, just run of the mill nasty speakers.I would imagine neither Suzuki or G.M, but some parts supplier. I have bought a system to replace them, just haven't gotten around to install it yet. I bought Alpine type R cross-overs, 5.25" for the front, 6.5" for the back but make sure I am kinda going by memory. Also Alpine 4 channel amp to run the front and back and Alpine 2 channel to run my 10" subs. Also Pioneer deck. Whatever you do try to keep the system stock looking, ie don't cut out your existing speaker grills and keep the parts you take out. The reason being, you may want to sell your rig one day with the old system, keeping your good system. The only concern I have with my system is with the power consumed by the two amps. I may have to run caps and install a spiral grid battery. Good luck with your new rig and hope you have many carefree miles.
Has anyone had problems with their factory radio going bad. 2000 Tracker with 51,000 miles. Radio doesn't work at all at first, then works intermittently, then works fine after it seems to "warm up". Anyone have a factory radio laying around that they don't need? Thanks!
I need to change the rear breaks on my tracker. The drum is stuck. Does anyone know the size of the bolts for the puller on the drum and the thread count. Also are they for a puller or to screw in and push off the drum. Either way I can do it. Also are there any other things I should know? :confuse:
first im shocked you need rear brakes already on a 2002 model. i have a 1999 model and im still on the same rear brakes (75k miles) anyways, what i do when i check them or when im going through my rear seal replacement(S). i slightly hit the drum with a hammer to loosen anything up. then i get a flathead screwdriver and slightly pry the drum brake, then i pops loose...
The last major part before the exhaust end is the converter . right? That's the pipe size? What is this "Air/No air" about on the converter? Is it an easy, clamp based, replacement of JUST the converter - or do I need to cut into the pipe ahead of it and weld? (The joint between the converter and the last, short, section of pipe rusted out. Other than that joint, everything else looks fine.)
What year and model is your rig? The last item I know of at the end of an exhaust system is the muffler a resonator ( a small expansion in the pipe ) could be before or after the muffler depending on the model, then tail pipe. I can't help you on the Air/No Air other than the store is asking you a generic question. Does your truck have air conditioning or not? The Catalytic converter is the bulbous flat block around the transmission area. If your rig has never had an exhaust replacement, the pipe behind the Catalytic converter is probably one piece. A little cutting and welding will be in order unless you replace the whole thing. A good shop will be able to help you.
I've seen pictures, (at places like J.C. Whitney) - and it looks more like the C.C. than anything else.
Some pictures show a tube coming out of the side of the converter (and mention a cap to close it off). This, I think, is the "air/no air" they're talking about. I've never seen anything like it before.
My Chilton CD mentions very little about the exhaust, and nothing about the converter.
The tube coming out of the C.C is part of your exhaust gas recirculation or EGR system. From what I can read in the service manual it works in both A/C trucks and trucks without A/C. It recirculates exhaust gas back to the intake manifold to reburn the formation of oxides of nitrogen during warm-up. I am surprised to all get out that the backside pipe coming out of the C.C is rusted out in a relatively new rig. If that is the case and the C.C is still good, I would definatly try to weld on a replacement than replace the C.C which would be quite expensive. From the looks of the pictures the pipe sticking out of the back side of the C.C is about a foot long. Get a shop to cut off the flange and replace the rotted out part. Good luck. The book doesn't state the diameter of the pipe, sorry
I think the C.C. end is way too far gone to weld anything to it (it looks like a slip joint, not a flange. There is possible a flange ahead of the C.C. that could be used for the repair, but only the short piece of pipe (in a slip joint) at the end.
I was surprised when I glanced under, at how clean and new the converter, and the pipe ahead of it, looked.
Perhaps there was an earlier repair of the middle section (bought used - 65K miles).
Where are you seeing pictures? That's one of the reasons I'm on this forum - can't find any good pictures.
I've seen C.C.s for under a hundred; still, money that could be used better elsewhere - like on food or gas.
Wife deliers News papers daily have 70 plus miles on it do a front brake jobe about every 4 to 5 months. One one of the forums someone told me it was a 8mm x 1.25 and is to push the drum off after backing off the adjuster and making sure the park break is off. As far as the Tracker is a joy to drive and own. Can't wait for winter to really try it out our first 4wd. After three yrs of PA winters in a car a small Dodge neon.
I have the complete G.M shop service manual for my 2003 although the pictures are not the most detailed, it gives you the jist of what to look for. Its 12" by 14" by 4.5" thick, the bible I call it. I hope it helped you somewhat.
Did you ever find out what was happening to your blinking light (interior and exterior) I am having the same exact problem.... I have a 2000 tracker and it has been doing if for a while now I have had 3 Diognostics done on my car they said it was the battery I got a new battery and the problem still continues...
Wow, delivering newspapers is killer on your vehicle with all the stop and go driving on it. I hope it's worth maintaining the brakes every 4-5 months, plus all the wear and tear on the engine.
If I were you (or your wife) I would buy a cheap, used gas saver to beat around delivering newspapers.
I have a 2001 Tracker that has black (or Grey?) bumpers and side moldings. There are several chips that are showing white. Is there any way to color these in, or a touch up paint I can use to cover them up?
I had the same problem and someone told me it was the camshaft position sensor but it wasn't so I bought a code reader at kragen's for 70 dollars and the code came up as the ho2s heater performance sensor aka oxygen sensor,it is worth buying a code reader the one I bought works on cars 96 and newer,good luck!
My daughter bought A 98 Chevy Tracker,we need help! how do we open the Hood to the engine?, this is halarious, but not really, the car is running hot we can't put water in the radiator,because we can't find the latch to open the hood?!.. we have looked inside the car on the dash, on the sides of the front seats, in the glove box, tried to feel some-kind of latch around or under the hood outside on the front of the car??. still nothing..?!. boy do we feel like blondes!?". would someone let us know, what we aren't seeing?, can't even get to the auto parts store for a car manual we are in a pickle?. help please. sachetby2 :P
My Tracker is a 2000 but I think I can still help, I doubt they are much different. The issue may be that opening the hood is a two step process. First, there should be a latch down and to the left of the steering column. Pull up on the latch. Then you have to go to the front of the car in the center and put your hand under the hood, which should now lift up an inch or two, and feel another latch. Move this to the left or right (don't remember exactly) to fully release the hood. Hope this helps.
Thank you, the trouble is?, I cannot find any latch neither down? or? on either side of the steering column to pull up on?!"... if so?, what does it look like is it a color?. or obvious?, I already know it's hidden.. LOL !! boy oh boy?," I wish I had a owners manual?.. thank you so much for trying to help us out here.. thanks again,do you by any way know where to find an online free look at the manual?." I could wish?. hahaha, tc sachetby2
thank you thank you thank you., i looked it up, it says its in the glovebox?.. OMG I still can't find it?!, can't see where it is in the pics either?!.this is so halarious!", but at least I know where it is suppose to be, after I finish tearing up the glovebox and following the wired to hopefully the hood?!. lol. not really?," this is pitiful.. lol, you did give me a great site to check out when I change the oil or put the water in the radiator from up under-neath..? lol, thank you so much, gotta laugh..." sachetby2 :sick:" alt="image" />
The hood latch is in the glove box. open box and place your hand, palm up, in the upper right area of the box. stick two fingers in the hole in this area, you will fill the latch. pull it... I have a 98 tracker also.
Storing my 03 rig for the winter, I know, insert laughter here for buying 4WD rig and not driving it in the winter. It's the Scot in me, it's not gonna rrrust. Is it better to place the jack stands under the frame and let the suspension sag or under the axle and suspension letting the body weight stay on the suspension? I fill the tank and put fuel stabilizer in the fuel also disconnect the battery. Should I release the serpentine belt and can anyone make any other sugestions. Thanks.">
I have a 2000 Tracker that decided it wanted to keep the iginition key. Cannot remove the key from the ignition. Anybody else have this problem, Any suggestions how to fix Thanks SammiesDad
I just bought a 2001. My bumpers and trim seem to be fading too. I have repainted bumpers and trim on Volvos with good success. Go to a auto parts store and buy bumper paint. It is made especially for repainting bumpers. Make sure you cover everything you do not want paint on with masking paper or newspaper and spray your bumpers. My tracker is an automatic. What gas mileage do you get with yours? Thanks, Leon Ramseur Gastonia, NC 2001 White Tracker 4x4
My guess is it would be better to put the stands under the axles and let the body weigh down the suspension since that is how it normally sits the rest of the year. The only difference is this way the tires won't get flat spots on them.
I am looking to buy my first preowned 2000 to 2004 Tracker. I want a 4x4 for light off road and some driving on the beach. I am not planning on heading deep into the dunes for baja racing but more or less for regular beach driving. I often visit the Outerbanks, NC, and the northern most tip of the island is 4x4 access only. No paved roads, just sand avenues and beach. I love what I am reading in the forums, and I want a fuel efficient, truck frame SUV like the Tracker. ANYONE have any beach driving experience with the Tracker?? These trucks seem low but I am reading alot about how tough they are. Please advise on beach driving! Thanks!
Does anyone know anything about this : Federal law requires that the onboard computer and the catalytic converter on 1995 and later model year vehicles be warranted for 8 years or 80,000 miles. Does that mean the dealer is responsible to replace them if they go bad?
My overhead dome light, in my 2001, will not come on when either door is opened. It comes on with the switch in the middle position, which is supposed to go off after 15 seconds according to the owners manual. But, it will not go off in middle positon with the doors open or closed. In the far right position, the light stays on and the doors opening and closing have no effect. The doors also have no effect if the switch is in the middle position. Do I have a bad dome light switch?
There is a dome light actuator on each of the doors including the tailgate door that are supposed to turn on the dome light when any one of the doors is open and the light switch is in the center position. Check each one to see it they are still working. One may be broken. Otherwise you may have a bad switch.
I have a 1993 two door Geo Tracker and it is an absolute tank. I am beating my buddy's lifted trucks with big tires and mine is completely stock. My only problem is one of my locking hubs broke and i cant decide to spend the money to replace it because i only bought the truck for $500. So someone tell me if i should get new or used or even replace it because i kind of want 4x4 for the winter snow. Thanks alot
With the switch in the middle position and all the doors closed the light should be out. If the light stays on than either one of the doors is not completely closed. Or one of the actuators on the doors is broken. Look at each one to see if it looks damaged. If the pin the is supposed to be pushed in by the door when it is closed is broken than that will be the bad switch. If you see one that doesn't look right try closing all the other doors and pushing the actuator in by hand on the one door that is opened.
ok im sure this has come up a few times but is there any companies that make a lift kit for a 2002 chevy tracker zr2, my buddy and i have been usein his truck for more mud and snow then road use, so where would we beable to find a lift kit for it, weve already found some tires, but now we need the lift so we can go up about 3 inchs up, and also where can we find a push bar so we can put a wench on the front and back of the truck, weve gone thru some pretty ruff mud holes but we want more hieght so we can go deeper with it
I have an '02 two door 4wd Tracker with over 100K miles on it. It's almost due for an engine. Can anyone tell me if it's possible to put the 2.5l V6 in it?
just wondering why would your 02 tracker need a engine with only 100k miles on it? it is having problems? My 1999 tracker with the 2.0 engine has close to 80k miles on it and still runs like new. i seriously doubt a v-6 with mount to a 4 cylinder tranmission. even if it did the increase in power might cause a shorter transmission life. I wonder if you would need more than just the engine. like NEW Computer,new fuel line(s), new intake,new exhaust (v-6 vs inline 4) different throttle linkage and the list goes on.....
I was wondering also why on earth you need a new engine. My 02 4 door with a 2.0 L is pushing 100k and runs like the day I drove it home from the dealer. Anyway as was stated in another reply, the computer must change, the transfer case is different between the 4 and 6 cyl, the braking system is different due to the extra weight in the front, and as was said the list goes on.
It would be easier to jack up the radiator cap and put a new tracker under it.
I am thinking about buying a 2dr 2000 Chevy Tracker. Is it safe to put a child car seat in the back seat of a convertible Tracker? Any recommendations on Hard Tops. I have seen several on the Internet. Thanks.
Comments
Does anyone know if they sell a clutch fan for a 2004 Suzuki Grand Vitara XL-7?
Has anyone had problems with their factory radio going bad. 2000 Tracker with 51,000 miles. Radio doesn't work at all at first, then works intermittently, then works fine after it seems to "warm up". Anyone have a factory radio laying around that they don't need? Thanks!
You'll find some stuck drum posts over there, like this one:
alcan, "Stop here! Let's talk about brakes" #1087, 28 Jul 2005 8:40 pm
Steve, Host
That's the pipe size?
What is this "Air/No air" about on the converter?
Is it an easy, clamp based, replacement of JUST the converter - or do I need to cut into the pipe ahead of it and weld?
(The joint between the converter and the last, short, section of pipe rusted out. Other than that joint, everything else looks fine.)
Thanks.
I've seen pictures, (at places like J.C. Whitney) - and it looks more like the C.C. than anything else.
Some pictures show a tube coming out of the side of the converter (and mention a cap to close it off). This, I think, is the "air/no air" they're talking about. I've never seen anything like it before.
My Chilton CD mentions very little about the exhaust, and nothing about the converter.
Thanks for the reply.
I think the C.C. end is way too far gone to weld anything to it (it looks like a slip joint, not a flange. There is possible a flange ahead of the C.C. that could be used for the repair, but only the short piece of pipe (in a slip joint) at the end.
I was surprised when I glanced under, at how clean and new the converter, and the pipe ahead of it, looked.
Perhaps there was an earlier repair of the middle section (bought used - 65K miles).
Where are you seeing pictures? That's one of the reasons I'm on this forum - can't find any good pictures.
I've seen C.C.s for under a hundred; still, money that could be used better elsewhere - like on food or gas.
If I were you (or your wife) I would buy a cheap, used gas saver to beat around delivering newspapers.
hahaha, tc
https://www.mygmlink.com/main/US/en/chevrolet/vehpage
This has pictures with it to assist you. :shades:
you did give me a great site to check out when I change the oil or put the water in the radiator from up under-neath..? lol, thank you so much, gotta laugh..."
sachetby2
Thanks SammiesDad
Thanks,
Leon Ramseur
Gastonia, NC
2001 White Tracker 4x4
Leon Ramseur
Gastonia, NC
Leon Ramseur
Gastonia, NC
Thanks for the reply. I had heard the Dealer could fix it for about $600.00..
Was that what you found ?? I was hoping there was a simple solution rather than a $600.00 expense..
Would you mind sharing what the dealer did to fix the problem..
Thanks
Sammiesdad
http://www.puresuzuki.com/grand_vitara2.htm
here you go!
chris
:confuse:
It would be easier to jack up the radiator cap and put a new tracker under it.
Thanks.