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P.S. That bbbind link is AWESOME!!!
Sometimes they go bad and keep the horn from working - bad connection kind of thing.
@Mr_Shiftright may be able to offer some ideas about the other problems. Big pain when the OBD stuff won't talk to the code readers.
Do you have a voltmeter?
If so get these measurements and post the results.
From the battery negative post to the data link connector measure;
Pin 1 (if used)
Pin 2
Pin 4 (should be close to 0, at least less than .2v)
Pin 5 (should be close to 0, at least less than .2v)
Pin 7
Pin 12
In recent weeks other issues have arisen. I frequently get a “Service Airbag System” message on my DIC and a solid airbag light upon startup, but both go away within a few seconds. My OnStar (and Bluetooth) often do not come on at all (no green or red light) and the car acts as though the system doesn’t exist. OnStar will sometimes come back within a minute or two, but typically it won’t until the car is restarted.
Yesterday I shut off the car while on an OnStar call and continued to talk. I hung up before opening the driver’s door. The radio turned off, but when I opened the rear door on the driver’s side I heard static. The radio had turned back on and switched from XM to AM while the key was in my pocket.
I’ve also had one occurrence where I was using my rear wiper but turned it off before turning the car off. The rear wiper swiped once when I opened the rear hatch, also with the key in my pocket.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I’ve had the car since it was new with relatively few problems, but the random electrical glitches are concerning.
Just FYI it does have an aftermarket remote start and back up cam when I purchased it that seem to work fine.
These were my transient symptoms:
1: Instrument lights blinking off.
2: Radio blinking off.
3: Turn signals don't work.
4: Turn signal activation disengages cruise control.
5: Cruise control cannot be set.
6: Car behaves as through battery has been removed (which also means that the key cannot be removed if you put it in).
These problems could usually be triggered by using a DC->AC power converter with a heavy load, like a laptop.
There were 2 problems with the battery connections.
1: The battery connections are of a poor design and do not allow for excessive (adequate) clamping so the positive terminal had wiggled loose. This was the main problem and made the care stable for a few weeks but then the symptoms came creeping back. So I went back to the battery area and found...
2: There is a very small gauge wire connected to the accessory lug of the Ground/Negative battery terminal via a very poor quality ring lug. The connection of the crimp to the ring was so week that when I gently pulled on it, it separated completely (see the 2 pictures: 1 before, 1 after). I stripped it back and screwed the nut directly onto the wire (did not yet replace with another proper ring lug) and have done 1000 miles with heavy load and no electrical glitches at all.
Hope that helps
I have a Saturn Vue 2009. When it gets Cold (under 40 degrees) the odometer and gas gauge will go up and down. Locks go up and down. It won’t shift gears, I can’t drive it. I have to wait for it to warm up before I can drive it. All summer is was perfect. Last winter and now this winter it’s getting cold so it’s not driving. Hearing it’s the BCM or ground wiring.
Any help or advice would be appreciated 😩