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Sorry to bother you but since I saw you were with a dealer in AZ thought maybe I could ask an unbiased question since I'm in MN. We used to live in Scottsdale. Starting to warm up there I bet. Anyway, I have a dealer here who is trying to sell me the GMC Acadia SLT-1 trim with parking assist and power tailgate in cherry color for $33,852, including the $1000 conquest for non GMC trade in. Is this a pretty good deal or should I keep waiting for a better deal or better financing? I had heard online there are some 0% deals on the Outlook but I haven't seen that in MN yet. Thanks!
As to the financing, I have not seen any good deals on Acadia. Around me, the Acadias are going fast, and 08's aren;t expected until late July or August. Also, a price increase is to be expected.
The reason I ask is that the GMC website took down the $500 cash rebate that was posted for May 2007
FWD
Summit White
SLT-1
Sunroof
at a dealership about 3 hours away from us. They came back with this very itemized expense list....bottom line was they wanted MSRP for the rig after all advertising fees, overhead, salesman commissions, etc. ($35610), then minus Conquest cash, $34,610. The person acted insulted when we countered back with $500 over invoice and advertising fees. We left.
I contacted the dealer who had the unit we were after:
$34,388 out the door, minus Conquest Cash, $33,388.
$1,300 difference. I don't want to drive three hours to do the deal, would you bother going back to the local dealership and showing them the quote? I think part of it is they have two fully loaded AWD SLT-2's on the lot, and they'd have to trade one of them...loosing out on a larger profit margin.
May end up doing the driving!!
thanks
$34385
Give them some incentive to close the deal as in "I'm a player & will sign today if you can match these terms" . Also, decide what your acceptable range is above those terms prior to going in. Chances are they won't exactly match the deal given they are swapping with another dealership. But if you get close enough & have decided what works for you ahead of time you will know when to take it. 3 hours is a long time to drive so if you decide what you are willing to pay above that current offer to save 3 hours drive time you will be happy with signing w/in a certain range.
I had a similar situation. My local dealership wasn't pricing out very competitively so I drove a good deal further to another dealership & they said they would do "1% over invoice" + $289 doc fees & ~$200 TTL. I presented this offer to my local dealership & initially they said they would do 2% over invoice & we finalized on 1.5% over invoice +$249 doc fees & ~$200 TTL (which was acceptable to me because .5% was worth having the dealership in my backyard essentially + slightly less on doc fees).
I've placed my order at 1.5% over invoice and waiting for delivery of an SLT-2. In the end, I decided that given the close proximity of the dealership to me I would just take the deal & get my Acadia because they seem to be in high demand at the moment & we wanted VERY specific options :P
$1,000 over invoice, PLUS delivery charge. Either that or we fly to Sacramento, where there's several dozen, make the deal, and drive up.
arrrg.
TR
I just planned to buy it somewhere else - CA, NV, ID, wherever...makes for a good road trip on the way back. [None of the local Saturn dealers, for example, have a FWD Outlook, and even the Seattle dealers have too few to make the choice reasonable - but all have endless rows of AWDs to choose from.]
The Fighting Chance method is this: From the manufacturer's website, obtain the dealerships you wish to solicit from. Send them a very specific fax which is included in their package. Watch as the offers come in.
In my case, I ended up with $100 under invoice on a vehicle that many dealerships told me was to hot to discount. Most dealerships make the bulk of their money from manufacturer incentives these days, and so frequently will be willing to loose money on a vehicle in order to meet sales goals for the month and obtain the incentive from the manufacturer. The clincher is usually when you tell them that you ARE going to buy the car from someone - is it going to be them or another dealership?
Thank you,
Matt
Finally yesterday drove by a dealership here in PDX that had one sitting on the lot. Turned out it was the floor display at the Portland Auto Show....every single option GMC puts on a rig, in the FWD. Red was NOT the preferred color, but at this point in time we gave in. $1000 under invoice; probably because it had been sitting a long while, most buyers at that price range wanted AWD, and we just didn't!!
My wife's happy.
TR
7% on lease
I think the sticker may go up a little, but discount and incentives will probably go down. Look at the Yukon/Tahoe going from $6-7K under sticker. Make them an out the door offer, reasonable offer and see if they bite. They want you to take their offer, not make one of your own.
2. I admit I really loved this SUV on my test drive and am trying to justify the price/mpg. Turning in my gas guzzling loud Envoy in 4 weeks. Someone suggested the less expensive Tahoe, but isn't that more of a truck ride, rather then a "crossover vehicle"?
I think someone made a comment about GM being in world of hurt, I think thats a BS statement, GM is still the second biggest corporation in the world, yeah, they took a hit, but they have nowhere to go but up, thats business.
the ad fee won't go away, the dealership pays for that, they would be using there holdback to pay for it, and on hot merchandise like the Acadia and Enclave the next guy will pay $500 over and be happy with there deal, I am a dealer, believe me there is no shortage of interested buyers on either model, The dealership is making $1600 pure profit plus doc fee at $500 over invoice, $1600 on a $35000 vehicle is a 4.5% profit margin, there's more mark up in almost anything you've ever bought, every appliance and luxury in your house. All I'm saying is $500 over is fair to both sides for hot merchandise and you'll be happy with your new Acadia.
2. Tahoe is a good vehicle too. If you're towing then the Tahoe is your choice. Otherwise the Acadia/Outlook/Enclave are far superior. Better MPG, ride, handling and the 3rd row lays flat instead of sitting above the cargo area.
Given the new 08 is out on KBB, why would anyone go pay even @invoice on an 07. You would loose 2K driving off the lot minimum right or am I goofy in this thought.
Mazaei in Antioch, Lehmer's in Concord, Dublin GMC in Dublin.
Type in the zip code 94549 and go to locate inventory.
One thing to consider when buying toward the end of the model year...your '07 will have many fewer miles that an '07 bought at the beginning of the model year, so the low mileage adjustment will make up for a little of the extra loss from buying late in the year. Also, normally incentives and/or discounts are larger during the year end closeouts than at the beginning of the year.
Since you are a dealer, would you not think it wise to use the finance at the dealer vs. an outside source as a bargain chip? Also, I try to wait for the dealers to hit us with the 0% interest but the Acadia does not seem to be going there. Also, lease vs. buy.. I own a company to which I can write the vehicle off. I intend to keep the Acadia at least 48 mo. Or 60 if the interest gets to zero. I had this pleasure with my Suburban (invoice & zero% on the balance)
Would you think that GM is at the point where the 07's will have packaged a deeper incentive now that the 08 are at the door knocking to come in?
0% interest or larger rebates? Hum...just do the calculations to see if 0% is better than say 6.9% with a $4000 rebate. For example, I just looked at my old credit union, up to 66 months, new vehicle, 6.24%. I went to their loan calculator and worked around until I determined that at 6.24% for 60 months on $35000 purchase that $5000 rebate is pretty close to the same as 0% interest. $35K -$5K rebate = $30K at 6.24% = %583.34/month. $35K @ 0.0% interest works out to just about $583.33/month.
But if you can write off a lease it probably makes sense to do that. Personally, unless I could write off a lease to business expense, I would rather buy.
GM and manufacturers usually increase discounts at this time of year to try and move remaining inventory. Somtimes they will increase rebates and even offer marketing support to dealers that have inventory left when the new model year vehicles start coming in. Different years bring different 'discount' ideas...last year or the one before it was 'everyone gets employee pricing', usually more to give a different slant to the tired old 'we are cutting prices to move these pigs, come down and save some money' and make some folks think they are getting a great deal. You might even want to register on some of the brands websites. Last month I got a e-certificate for an additional $1000 off on Acadia, Envoy, Trailblazer or Outlook...just pulled up the e-mail, ended yesterday, 6/18/2007. $1500 on Yukon/Tahoe.
Then sometimes there is either the conquest cash or loyalty cash depending on if you have a competing vehicle or one of that brand.
Bill
the latest is that the 08 is $150.00 more..
wlbrown9, Bill
sorry, I thought I had read a couple replies back that you said you were a dealer..
In general ...with all that has been said, I went to the site "fightingchance.com".
there appears to be a holdback worth $1,000.00 in dealer profit even though they just sold you a car @ invoice.
some holdbacks apparently vary.
I may choose to buy as oppossed to lease.
re: the Holdback you mentioned from "fightingchance.com"
Edmunds has a primer on that issue which includes most manufacturer's holdback amounts.
http://www.edmunds.com/advice/incentives/holdback/index.html
IF vehicles come on the lot and then go right back out as sales, then the dealer makes most of the holdback as profit. One discussion I've seen is that after about 90 days on the lot the dealer's interest on the inventory has offset most of the holdback amount. Might be a little longer than that depending on the interest rate the dealer is paying on inventory. So, there might appear to be a gross profit in the holdback, but the net profit after considering the holdback could be negative.
A lot of consumer sites warn against using the 'holdback' issue as a barganing chip unless the dealer is giving the false song and dance about making no money on the deal. Also the sales person that might get a commission from the sale does not usually get any of the holdback $$$ so he/she is probably not going to be swayed by that argument.
With holdback, volume incentives, dealer cash, dealer overhead, etc. it would be almost impossible to guess the real bottom line cost to the dealer of any vehicle...if fact they may not know until later when all their inventive/volume programs finish up.
Anyway it is all speculation...figure a price that you want to pay and make an offer. If accepted, sign the paperwork, if not, either walk to another dealer or make another offer. Be sure to find out as much as possible about current incentives before going... rebates, cash to dealer support, loyalty or conquest incentives. If you get $500 under invoice and then find there were $2000 total rebates, then you may have actually left as much as $1500 in the dealer's pocket.
what I've got so far is an 07 Acadia SLT 2. Sticker around 44,250.00. I'll get the Acadia @ invoice (41,250). Plust get my concquest discount. that's the best I've pulled out of them at present.
Now, I may opt to go with an 08 Enclave CXL (loaded as the Acadia is). I'm attempting to get this one with the same deal @ invoice. And still get my conquest credit.
Likely to go with there finacing to sweeten there pot from the finance end and yet no added cost out of mine by going with E Loan. They will make a tad bit more from their loan paper vs. my paper from E Loan. No extra cost from me. I'm using this as a possible chip in the pot.
My internet gal has possibly made an error in her initial statement but she claims that there might be an additional 1K credit should I have a Sun Roof on the Enclave.
I'll simply read my paper work carefully
I saw that warantee as well. That sounds better.
I am considering purchasing my own extended warantee outside of the dealers offering. I'll likely drive this vehicle some 14-16k miles average anually. So in 2.75-3 yrs, my warantee is used up with respect to the miles.
Jim
72 mo / 100,000 miles List / discounted price
$0 deductible $1,970.00 / $1,495.00
$100 deductible $1,715.00 / $1,240.00
$200 deductible $1,525.00 / $1,050.00
I you contact them to get a personal, updated quote they might even send you an extra discount of these prices. Another benefit, if you live someplace other than Pennsylvania, they do NOT collect sales tax. You can purchase at the above prices with less than 12mo/12000 miles, after that the price goes up slightly.
o Enclave is class E/F (E for FWD, F for AWD)
o Outlook/Acadia are class C/D (C for FWD, D for AWD)
I would assume that a class E/F warranty is more expensive than a class C/D. A "tax" on enclave owners if you will. Makes sense.. there are a few more parts to cover with an Enclave than an Acadia/Outlook. On the other hand.. The factory waranty for the Enclave is longer so the extended warranty should be cheaper (less coverage needed).
Sticker incl Destination $29,495
(Edmunds shows invoice incl. Destination should have been $29,845... not sure about the $350 difference)
In any case Edmunds shows Invoice incl. Destination for same of $27,953
Small family dealership- not linked to Advertising schemes, not hot for quarter-end quota push, offerred $28500 ($1k concession, leaving it modestly over invoice), less $1000 Conquest, arriving at $27500.
In the end, I got it under invoice. Seemed fair to me- nothing to argue or haggle over (expected a lot of hassle, as everyone else called it "new" and "hot" and didn't want to discout). Was extremely pleasant, and deal was done in minutes.
Found GMC site, where you can build your car and find locate it very user friendly... can even see sticker details on-line.
"
I went to the site and checked...it looks as if Class C is a little more than Class E, so the longer warranty on the Enclave does save you a little on the extended GMPP warranty.
Class $0 ded/60mo/90K $0 ded/72mo/100K
E $1470/$995 $1970/$1495
C $1580/$1105 $2080/$1650
Class E is the Enclave, Class C is the Acadis/Outlook. The prices are LIST/Selling price. I also checked the D vs F and D pricing is more than F as well. So Enclave buyers would get a little discount. Difference looks to be $100 to maybe $200 depending on what coverage you purchase.
This figure was taken off of the invoice itself which I reviewed prior to purchase. Did you see the total Ad Fees on the invoice or did the dealer quote this to you? BTW - our fee was in the Mountain West area.
I like to make my offers in US Dollars...
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I can ignore or swallow a $200 Ad fee but $800-$900 is getting to be real money.
I'm thinking that the manufacturer should include those costs in the basic cost of the vehicle instead of adding it on as another 'item'.
I don't mean to start another war out here, but $800 Ad fees make me about as happy as $495 DOC fees.
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