Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

eric102

Simple if you have the tires off the car and a framing square (or some other square object).

Roll the tire up against a flat surface (wall), then put the framing square on the floor and against the tires center tread. Make a mark on the floor with a sharp pencil. Do the same with the next tire. Measure the difference. This would be the difference in diameter. Multiply by 3.14, this would be the difference in circumference.

I destroyed a tire on my Outback at 16,000 miles and found the difference was only about 1/8".

Eric

hypov

john284 Sep 11, 2003 7:27am

Isn't there such a device you'd roll along to measure distance on a map? You could try that. I've seen somewhere similar thingie for use other than map use.

-Dave

speterson1

dholz

Hi - I have a 2003 Forester XS, and I have installed a Fumoto (note - not Fujimoto) oil drain plug valve. My observations may be relevant to the concern over residual oil left in the engine after draining. I was initially concerned about the same thing.

First, I jacked up the driver's side of the car such that the front wheel was off the ground so I could more easily slide underneath. This did give a slight leftward lean to the engine. I removed the original plug and let the oil drain until there was barely a drizzle continuing to flow (as long as my patience typically allows). I then installed and tightened the Fumoto valve.

Now, if the valve was blocking a significant amount of oil from draining, I would expect that opening the valve would not result in further drizzle, since the pan had already been drained without obstruction. However, when I opened the valve as a test (probably a minute or so since the drizzle had been stopped by the installation), oil continued to drain! I was pleased and reassured.

The standard valve as recommended by Fumoto for the Forester (without nipple) appears to be just the right item.

For what it's worth -

Don

ateixeira

Good info, thanks.

-juice

p0926

Don- FYI, hitting refresh from within a discussion will result in a duplicate post. However, you can delete by choosing the delete button at the end subject line.

-Frank P.

kens

I'm sure the 1/4" circumference has some factor of saftey built into it. That's been the rule for a while now and I haven't heard of anyone who regularly rotates and checks treadwear that has trashed their diffys. Drive in confidence!

Interesting information on the Fumoto valve. However, a more meaningful experiment would be to drain the oil as much as the Fumoto valve would allow, then remove it and see how much extra comes out. Typically oil will continue to drizzle out for a while so I'm not suprised that you immediately saw oil come out of the valve after installing it.

Ken

corkfish

I wish I could remember where I saw it, but someone actually posted photos of his XT drain pan removed with the valve in it. It did indeed extend up beyond the base of the pan so you could see how it wouldn't allow all the oil to come out. He rectified it by cutting a "V" in the threads of the valve which would then allow the oil to escape.

stoner420

Peaty has a thread on the scoobymods site about the fumoto valve. He did check to see how much oil was left, he said after he pulled it out, only a few cc of oil came out that didn't drain because of the threads extending in the pan. But then he filed the V into the threads just to help it drain completely.

dafracks

I also posted this in the Subaru problems area. Sorry for the duplication but I'm not sure where I should be.

GRRRRRRRR. I've had this car since March and absolutely love it, until Wednesday when the Check Engine light went on. BTW the car has 78,000 miles on it. I checked my manual and tightened the gas cap - the light stayed on. I drive mostly highway miles and really take good care not to drive crazy

I went to a local independent Subaru repair shop and they got a code PO420 catalyst efficiency low bank #1 message. At that time they reset the light and recommended that I replace the catalytic converter and also the 02 sensors.

I called the dealer where I purchased the car to ask about warranty. It covers 8 years and 80,000 miles on the catalystic converter. I drove it straight to the dealer. They said the catalytic converter tested out within normal range. Come back and see us when the light comes on.

So now I feel like I'm driving a time bomb which will of course go off at 80,001 miles. The check engine light has not returned of course.

So - is there anyway for me to get this light to go on in the next 1500 miles or so, or does anyone know of a way to set the light on?

Another question - has anyone experienced anything like this with their Subaru before?

leo2633

I had that problem with my 2001 Forester at around 56K miles. They replaced one of the converters (I think it was the front) and the rear O2 sensor. These were causing a recurrent Check Engine Light. It seems to have worked, because the CEL hasn't come on again in about 18K miles. (Of course, I probably just jinxed myself!)

Len

ivestorpark

Need more help. I crawled under my ‘04 Forester XS this morning to look for the plastic shield protecting the oil filter and drain plug. Fortunately I’m thin enough to attempt this task. As I live in an apartment complex where management gets surly about working on cars, I don’t the advantage of running my vehicle up on ramps let alone viewing the undercarriage on a rack/lift to get a good view. I looked from the left and right sides, but was still considerably behind the splashguards (f/k/a mud flaps). Still didn’t see the plastic shield, so I’m assuming that it’s either elevated from the lowest part of the undercarriage, or farther fore than I could view from my vantage point. I did look at the owner’s manual so I have a rough idea of the layout of the shield. Can anybody give me a better idea of the positioning of the plastic shield? I presume it’s black in color.

Second problem. I have a lot brown scuff on all four of my tires. It generally covers the circumference of the tires near the tread, although a little is visible near the rim. Formerly, I would have used Bleche Wite to remove it, but that’s a no-no with alloy wheels. I tried dish detergent this morning with a scrub brush with little effect. I haven’t scrapped my tires against a curb, so how are the tires getting this scuff? Does anybody know of a product safe for alloys that could remove this grime? It seems that the only tire protectors today are combination cleaners and protectant. I tried one by Armor All this morning and it did only a fair job. I’d prefer a separate cleaner, if it were reasonably price. For a tire protectan I previously used Turtle Wax Formula 2001 Tire Gel, which I worked well. In spraying on the Armor All some residue got on the brake disks, so I’ll probably make some sort of template to protect the wheels when spraying the tires.

That’s for all your help guys.

raybear

The drain plug is located toward the front of the car.

c_hunter

The shield is under the engine, and the oil filer access door is in the front, offset from center towards the passenger side. Can't miss it. I think it even says "Oil Filter" on it! Try looking from under the front bumper.

I've been using simple green on tires and wheels, and like it a lot. Great for cleaning engines too.

Craig

entropy5527

My CEL came on about 40,000 miles on my 1998 Forester and indicated this P0420 code. They also told me I would need to replace both converters and the O2 sensors. After replacing these the light still came on every few months. Turns out the there was an exhaust leak at the manifold that was letting air in, and confusing the computer. You may want to see if they will replace the Gaskets at the exhaust manifold for you.

James

dafracks

Thanks Len and James. I'm hoping that it goes back on before 80,000. But I will make sure that I at least attempt to convince the dealer that the code was reported before the 80,000 mark and they should take care of some of it.

Sigh. I still love my car a lot.

ateixeira

Call 800-SUBARU3 and report the problem, keep all the paper work. You document the issue before the warranty expires, then it should be covered if it proves to be a problem later.

What is the brown stuff on the wheels? Is it greasy?

-juice

asplundh

I have a 2002 Forester L and I've never been crazy about the brakes. I have 27,500 miles on it and lately the brakes are getting worse. The squeak almost every time I apply them unless it rains and I notice when slowing down the brakes seem to grab inconsistently as if they catch a certain point of the rotor and then do not. I have been back to the dealer 3 times on this and they just clean them or say they are ok. I am becoming quite frustrated with this. I have two questions.

One, what is causing these problems and second is the braking system on the new 2003 improved over the 2002 models.

Thanks in advance for any info.....

ateixeira

My original pads and rotors are still quiet at 55k miles, knock on wood.

The dealer must be scuffing the pads, that didn't work. Some say if you drive in reverse and brake hard that takes the glazes outer layer off, too.

Other than that, try a set of Hawk pads, C&D tried some on a WRX and the performance was excellent, with stock rotors. I don't recall if they measured noise, though.

-juice

kens

I'd also make sure the cat problem is documented. If it should come back after 80K miles, you'll probably be taken care of.

Brown scuffing? What pressures are your tires inflated to? It could be that you're getting some sidewall roll/flex in the corners. I'd recommend at least 32psi all around.

I've never had a brake squeaking problem with my 98 Forester too. I replaced my pads and front rotors at 65K.

Ken

gened1

I too, have an 02L and was experiencing squealing brakes and it was driving me crazy. The first time I took it to the dealer I had an oil change done and requested that they stop the squealing brakes. They said they could not reproduce the squeal whereupon I got in applied the brakes and the squeal began. They then put it back on the lift and cleaned the back brakes. Before the next oil change the squeal was back. I then took the "Silver Sin" back for another oil change and told them that if the squeal could not be silenced I was going to put wagner thermoquiet pads on the front and shoes on the rear. They worked on the brakes and told me that I would void my warranty on the brakes if I used other than OEM equipment. I stated that If OEM squealed then I don't want that kind of warranty. Anyway, the brakes haven't squealed yet (It seemes it was the back brakes squealing) I don't know what they did but they said they cleaned the drums. I did hear that they loosened the brakes somehow and I am thinking it was some problem with the emergency/parking brake but this was not confirmed. So far I am happy with no squeal but,like you, the brake "feel" leaves a lot to be desired.
Hope this helps.
Hope I didn't link to any other competing website! Wouldn't want to be deleted again!
Gene

ateixeira

void my warranty on the brakes if I used other than OEM equipment

WRONG! Moss Magnuson Warrancty Act says that's illegal. In fact, Subaru can only require OE parts if they provide them to you for FREE!

Total nonsense! They can come up with specs (ex: DOT 4 brake fluid or 10w30 SH grade oil), but they cannot force you to use OE Subaru parts or supplies.

-juice

asplundh

Thanks for the replies to my brake posting. I wanted to let you know I spoke to the service manager this morning at my Subaru dealership and he promises me that next week when I bring it in he will give it the attention it deserves. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again.

stever

The Forester garners three stars:

WTOL

Steve, Host

ateixeira

Same as the last generation. I thought it might earn a 4th star since they put more aluminum higher up in the vehicle (roof rails and hood) and because the track is wider.

The dynamic tests will be far more interesting.

-juice

p0926

Yeah and I'm pretty sure that the current method doesn't take into account the Forester's true CG. Since the Outback got 4 stars my guess is that the Forester must be borderline (using the current method).

-Frank P.

gened1

The way it was explained to me by the service manager was that I had 3yr/36000 mile bumper to bumper warranty and that did include pads and shoes. So I guess they would have been given to me free of charge. After that I am on my own to substitute whatever pads and shoes I want. I will do just that however if the squealing comes back.
Gene

ateixeira

I see what you mean now, brakes are a wear and tear item, fair enough. I'm not sure if the pads and rotors are covered beyond the first year to be honest.

But using aftermarket pads and fluid can't void, say, your brake master cylinder warranty.

-juice

stever

Maybe you saw the blurb elsewhere, but tonight's Town Hall wide chat is all about extended warranties. I know you're a big fan of them <wink>. Me neither.

Maybe you and I can gang up on Juice, lol.

Here's some ammo:

 The rip-off room (CNN/Money)

The chat link is on the left for anyone wanting to join in - starts in about 4 hours.

Steve, Host

xccoachlou

This year it is 1.24 and previous years it was 1.19. That is 4-5% improvement. The Outback gets a 4 star rating and it has a 1.26 Static Stability Factor.

The CR-V also gets 3 stars but it has a 1.16 Static Stability Factor.

- Lou

xccoachlou

Man, would that come in useful in the city...

http://tinyurl.com/ng3y

or

http://www.car.co.nz/media.asp?articleid=1043

- Lou

P.S. And as an added benefit, fresh urban pheasant stew!

njswamplands

williamskm

I have the compass/auto dimming mirror on my 2003 XS. I am wondering if the side mirrors also auto dim? I thought they did once but now it seems like they don't and I can't find anything in the manual
Thanks
Kim

c_hunter

Just the rear-view dims, not the sides (but that would be cool).

Craig

ivestorpark

on the tires is not greasy. I've seen it on other tires and cars over the years, but I'm not sure what causes it. Usually marks of this nature are caused by the tire rubbing a curb or something similar, but I haven't hit a curb yet and these marks are on all four tires. I'll look at Simply Green this weekend. I assume that it's safe for alloy wheels, but will read the label and call their toll-free marketing number to be sure. I think I call a tire store to get their opinion also.

bkaiser1

I've used Simple Green on my tires and wheels for years and I'm convinced that it is absolutely the best cleaner on the market. If you scrub the tires with a brush they will be naturally shiny-black with no need for a spray on tire dressing.

As far as the wheels, I've never had any trouble with the finish on my alloy wheels using Simple Green...although I'll add that it IS a degreaser and if you're the type that waxes the wheels, it will likely strip the wax from your wheels.

The stuff is magic...and cheap at Costco!

Brian

bkaiser1

Oh, one more thing....if you don't wash the tires completely after spraying Simple Green on, they will turn brown. Make sure the tires get scrubbed and rinsed completely and they'll be great!

B

officeglen

I haven't seen anything in the discussions about this.
What's the best strategy for rust protection for my 03 forester.
I'm thinking of something like krown (oil spray)
as oppose to something like Ziebart. Keep in mind up here winter is about five months long and they salt and sand the roads.

grahampeters

G'day

Glen, you might try posting over in the Subaru Crew -Meet the Members topic. Pat, a fellow Canadian has body protection advanced to an art form and gives a detailed analysis of the best method for protection.

Cheers

Graham

envyabull

I post this information because the dealers do not seem to know much about this option yet. I kept asking, "Will this rack accept Thule accesories?" It looked like it would from the images in catalog, but the text and some dealer's comments indicated otherwise.

The answer is "YES." The square bar rack available as an option for Foresters accommodates Thule accessories. It attaches quickly with the flip of a lever at each pedestal and includes locks and keys. This rack is manufactured by MontBlanc. They also make the Subaru brand cargo boxes. It seems to be a better rack for much less money than buying an after-market Thule. I now have three Thule bar sets sitting in my garage from various cars so I know. The rack does sit a few inches higher on the bars compared to the factory rack. It is also less aerodynamic, so noisier, especially with kayak attachments. However, if you already have a bunch of Thule accesories it is the best value.

It does go on and off in just about two minutes so its easy to pop on only when needed. The Forester XT - PP is extremely quiet without the rack, even with that huge Galaxy Roof (moon-roof, hardly!)

lark6

That's not good news for me if I ever get a newer Forester. I have the Yakima round bars and crosstops. IIRC aren't all of Subaru's rooftop accessories to date made by Yakima?

Ed

kajko

Howdy,

Just looked through Edmunds editors' picks for 2004. Funny that Honda CR-V made it to the 15 SUV list while our Foresters are not even cross-listed with it. Interestingly enough Honda CR-V gets 7.1/9.1 editor/consumer rating, while the Subie gets 8.0/9.5... am I missing something here??

joelb

Are there any decent repair manuals for the 1999 Subaru Forester? Which is the best?

(I want to replace my manual transmission fluid)

p0926

Whoa! Foul!!!! Actually the slight is even worse… the Forester actually has better scores than three of Edmund's mini-SUVs picks:

Model - Editor/Consumer rating

Forester - 8.0/9.5
CRV - 7.1/9.1
Escape - 7.6/9.1
Tribute - 7.7/9.6

But wait, that's not all, Edmunds chose to list both the Escape and Tribute, which are corporate twins (CR usually lists them together), thereby essentially giving one model two votes. Secondly, the write up for the Escape specifically mentions "its powerful V6 engine" but the accompanying specs are for the 127hp 4-banger (including its 23/28 mpg rating).

Sheesh! Here the Subaru Crew is one of Edmund&#146;s most active, loyal and civil bunch of posters and our vehicle of choice gets totally diss&#146;ed by the editors. I think our excellent and friendly Town Hall hosts need to take the editors out back to the woodshed for this one!

-Frank P.

tidester

Here's your chance to make a difference - tell them yourself! Fill me out!

tidester, host

njswamplands

tidester

You might be interested in Road Tests: First Drives.

tidester, host

p0926

Actually, here's the link to the 2004 Buying Guide

-Frank P.

ivestorpark

Finally found the plastic shield protecting the oil filter/drain plug. I've never seen an oil filter that far forward when you remove/install it form under the engine.

Can't find a 17 mm lock washer at HD. The largest that they have is 16 mm. The largest Lowe's has is about 12 mm. Is there an imperial size washer than may serve as an alternative. I guess if it's a tad bigger wouldn't hurt, as long as the threads of the drain plug form a good seal which it should. Any ideas/suggestions? Does the plug also take a 17mm wrench to loosen/tighten? I've had three Japanese cars before my Subie and have found a 14 & 17 mm wrench/socket works for 95 % of the jobs you do on your car. The rest you rarely if ever use, except for license plate bolts/screws. thx

yvrwfc

Hi..

I drive an old Civic (88).. and am considering to replace it by the Forester or CR-V..

After the test drive yesterday/today.. my conclusion for the 2004 Forester
XS (Manual):

Good
- overall handling,, particularly when turning on a winding road/hiways..
stable and felt solid when turning

- reasonable height/size...and good cargo space for my work boxes and summer
camping gears/bike and Fall hiking stuffs..

- nice look/style (silver+grey trim.. quite nice.. and light grey interior)
for sure this is a stn wagon that the driver can wear suit/tie or hiking
outfit when driving it....

Concerns or questions?
- i think the cross bars are making "squeaky noise" on hi ways.. is this
common ?

- the shift gears are a little looser than my civic.. (maybe i just need to
get used to it..)

- the accelerator is also quite sensitive.. particularly felt that on 1st
gear..

- the back seats are tight.. it's actually a 4passenger wagon (not 5 as
advertised).. leg room at the back seats is also tight..; but ok for driver
seat

- my biggest concern though... is actually this what i called "hesitation"
feeling.. it's kind of hard to say..what it is.. i felt that when i was in
2nd/3rd or 4th gear... I felt it was "almost" like a slight "jerk" . even
though i did not release the gas pedal while cruising on a regular road on
my 3rd gear (probably around 40-60km/hr speed)... it also felt like the car
was not 'warmed up ' enough... it's doing this 'coughing'.. kind of thing..
it's not really that dramatic but obvious enough that i noticed that.. the
sales guy told me it's becos of the 4WD... and the sensitivity of the
accelerator.. anyone could help explain this ?

The more that I read and reseach, the more that I feel Forester is better than CR-V... and their price is fairly compatible...

Any comments? email: yvrwfc@allstream.net

Thks.

will-B.C., Canada