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Comments
Bear in mind - there is no engine immobilizer, just a starter cut off. Still, I preferred OEM security, because, unless you are wiling to pay $800+ for a really good after market alarm, OEM is good for a price. No need for additional drilling, wires are already there, included in warranty and financing, one place service, one original key fob etc. And most important - standardized, so thief-friendly, as they don't have to think too much what are they dealing with
Honk can be disabled (for lock/unlock function)
Unrelated to the above, I was in Cowville a couple weeks ago and was fascinated with what they did to Kananaskis river and all new paddling features there. Why are you guys getting all the best in this province. I'm seriously considering moving there, more and more.
K
Cowville is great if you get out and enjoy those mountains. I, personally, like Etown a little better... but don't tell anyone that down here!
Here is a re-cap. It only happens when the outside air temp is cold especially when taking the engine above 4k. I first discovered the noise when after I inspected the engine air filter. I went back into the air filter housing to see if I had missed reassembly. Everything appears tight. All the clips and nuts etc.
Can anyone think where I might look to find this noise. This isn't just a slight noise this is enough to make me crazy. I have actually removed the CCU from the bracket and routed it out near the battery and wrapped it in a towel. I think the noise must be coming from the Snorkus assembly. I have taken pieces of the Snorkus off and then waited for morning and then done a test drive. Each time noise is there.
Thanks in advance. Bob L.
The only other thing I can think of -- is it possible something dropped in the nooks and crevices of the Snorkus? There are a lot of places something could get trapped.
Is the noise "repeatable" with RPM, or does it change randomly and seem different all the time?
Auto or manual transmission?
Craig
Cool news - I got some brand-new OE carpeted mats for Sandy. Found them by freak coincidence on my work bulletin board for $25 a full set, still in the original plastic!
She'd bought an extra set but her ex-husband got the Forester in the divorce. I told her she needs a better divorce lawyer! LOL
-juice
Now you can enjoy your Forester.
Gene
Craig
-juice
The article provides a nice summation of the Forester's capabilities:
Which reflects the Forester's – and other Subaru models' – almost unique ability to be several things to all people: family transport, high-speed intercity cruiser, shopping cart and, over weekends and holidays, a 4x4 that will go pretty much anywhere.
-Frank P.
So my question is answered. I am going to try the squeegee suggestion. The stuff accumulates a lot in a week or so and is a nuisance. It seems to be worse in this car. Maybe because it is only 5 months old and I leave it at a Park N Ride lot in the sun all day.
FYI-
I have also found that cloth baby diapers are excellent for glass cleaning.
Rebecca
-juice
That's what the Crew's all about. :-)
Ken
Speaking of OCD -- my wife made her usual list of meals to cook this week (on the fridge), and underneath, her sister (visiting) penned in "anal retentive salad and obsessive compulsive chicken". We got a good laugh out of that one. I won't complain as long as she cooks!
Craig
The OE pads are a good balance between performance, wear and brake dust. I've never noticed brake dust on my Forester. My wife's VW on the other hand, is a brake dust machine.
Ken
My wife's 02 Forester is still experiencing pre-ignition pinging.
Last year I scheduled a dealer visit and the mechanic said it was "spark knock" brought on by bad gas. He suggested trying different gas stations and using the name brands. So... for close to a year my wife has only been buying gas mostly from BP and Mobil and going to different stations. Thge problem still persists.
On occasion I will fill up with mid-grade and the pinging improves but doesn't completely go away.
What is interesting is that it rarely pings when the engine is cold and this occurs mostly while accelerating between 25 to 40 MPH.
I do not have alot of faith in this dealer. (They haven't corrected a persistent suspension rattle on my 00 Outback.) Here are my questions:
1) Could this be a faulty knock sensor OR a problem with the ECU?
2) Should I open up a case with SOA prior to scheduling a dealer appointment?
3) Does this pre-ignition pinging cause engine damage?
4) It is an 02 Forester (purchased 9/01) with 16,000 miles. Would this be covered under warranty?
Thanks for your advice,
Ron
YWRX
1) Don't know enough to answer that one.
2) I'd give the dealer one more chance. If the problem persists, then I'd call SOA and get a case number.
3) Persistent engine knocking (early detonation) can indeed damage your engine. Question is whether that's what you're experiencing.
4) Yes. It absolutely should be covered under warranty.
-Frank P.
Mark
Ron
What about 225/60 R16? Too big?
Bob
-Frank P.
Definitely could be the knock sensor, that's what my money's on.
Steve: while it's a small difference, I would not get smaller tires. You lose a little ground clearance, you lose load capacity, you lose tread width, sidewall radius for impact absorption, you name it. Your speedo will read fast, your odometer will accumulate more miles than you actually drive. Your spare will be bigger than the OE tires, which will especially matter if you have a rear LSD (S or XS/XT models). Just about every one of those is a negative.
I have 225/60R16, but that gives me more clearance, more sidewall, more width, more load capacity, etc. Some tires that size will rub, so you may have to get rims with a different offset (I did). Both my differentials are open, in case I ever use the spare, plus I have my spare at a higher PSI to make up for some of the difference.
Generally, stick with the OE size unless you have a specific reason why you want to change. I wanted a slight lift, and wider tires for better floatation on sandy surfaces. Plus my rims are 7" wide, 1/2" wider than stock.
-juice
See it here
I did nothing to the mirror and I just can't imagine it break this early. (And it's no longer covered by the warrenty) Any of you guys heard this kind problem before?
tidester, host
Also, on the wife's OBW, the darn thing just stopped working at nine months. I've got an appt for Monday with the dealer to get it replaced.
Lastly, the new Gentex mirror is way, way better IMO. If possible I'm going to see if the dealer will make me a deal on one of those as a replacement for hers.
Larry
Replacements can be had for around $70 (online) if I remember right, so it wouldn't be too expensive. You could also put in a regular mirror for less, I'm sure.
Craig
There is a way to do an html version of the chat, but that requires manual refreshing of the screen, so avoid that if you can.
The easy version of the chat is java based, so it needs to be enabled.
Here's part of the chat blurb from Town Hall Help:
Browser Requirements
To participate in an Open Member chat, we recommend you use a java-enabled browser. Either change the settings in your browser to enable Java or change your preferences in the Town Hall Community to run the HTML version of the chat. (A Preferences link is located at the top of any board or discussion page when you are logged in to the Town Hall Community.) Users of non-java browsers such as WebTV and older versions of AOL should use the HTML version of the chat.
Try the Mazda chat this Tuesday if you can and maybe we can figure it out before the Subaru Chat on Thursday. The link is always on the main Town Hall page.
What browser and OS are you using, bty?
Steve, Host
Hope to be in the chat room in a week and check my access again if a fish won't go away.
Craig
Maybe it's the heat causing the problem. It was quite hot in California several weeks ago.
I checked www.subaruparts.com and it's cost $136.21. It's just so disappointed that the mirror is that easy to break. I think I will just replace it w/ a cheap (non auto dimming one) instead. (or maybe try ebay to see if any good deal there......)
If it was a quality repair and no frame damage perhaps you should make him some type of low ball offer and see where it goes from there.
Sounds like it had some significant damage even at todays inflated repair costs. At a minimum take it to a reputable body shop and have it checked if you are interested.
One thing a body man told me when my Sable got hit in the rear quarter (the insurance go offered to buy a new one but he worked the metal back out by hand - almost no bondo when he was done - looked great) anyway he said that by the time he chiseled through the spot welds, re-welded the new piece, primed everything, etc, that it would last about 3 years before it started to rust.
I've known the guy for years and never met anyone better at that type of work.
By the way, you might want to check the Galves price, which is the auction wholesale price for that model - I think its $5.00 for 24 hours of access. If you want the car I'd start at below the Galves price and then negotiate.
Remember that if you go to sell it later and someone pulls a carfax on it, you might have a problem unloading it. Less of a problem of course if you plan on keeping it forever.
FWIW
Larry
I really have no idea.
And check your Preferences (linked at the upper left of your page under My Preferences) to verify that you've selected Java for the chats.
Steve, Host
If the price of a severely damaged car is no lower than a pristine one, I'd avoid it. OK, it was fixed, but still. The paint never quite matches. It's peeling on the repaired panels on my Miata (done just more than a year ago).
There is no compelling reason to buy it, that's the thing. The seller is a nice guy, and sadly we all know where they finish...
-juice
I wouldn't buy a vehicle with an accident history no matter how good the repair. And $8000 is A LOT of body work. It makes you wonder what kind of accident was this person in?
Ken
Thanks,
Jerry