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And... when it had 44K miles on it.. the glove box latch screws fell out..
I can't trace that definitively to the drive from the other dealer.. but, since that is the only thing that ever went wrong in 59K miles, I figure that has to be it.
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Most car shuttlers are retirees.. In general, the cars aren't abused, smoked in, etc, etc.. I wouldn't worry about it... As silly as it seems, color is important.. if you get a different one, you'll think about it, every time you see the color you passed up.
But, I'll be at 44K miles in about six months.. I'm keeping an eye on that glove box.
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Thank you everyone for your input.
Except for Hondas, which have specific language in the Owners Manual about how you should drive your new Honda during the break in period.
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Except the one about varying the speed during the break in period (i.e. don't use the cruise control).
As far as not being able to get it out of park - haven't heard of that yet - guess you've probably already called a tow to the dealer at this point. Let us know what happened with this situation.
I parked next to it and checked it out. Looked like a thoroughly modern reincarnation of the '98 Odyssey sold here.
Add AWD and it would be just about ideal. Do they make them with SH-AWD?
It had diplomatic plates, probably an employee of the Japanese Embassy.
We get a lot of unique cars and trucks, I've seen some Renaults and even a diesel Discovery, but this was the first JDM car I've seen.
-juice
-juice
It is a modern interpretation of the original Ody. They never stopped selling them in other markets. In fact, they got a V6 over there, which we never saw.
They were just redesigned earlier this year (and have become a big seller). I think the last generation offered RT4WD as an option. Dunno about the new ones. SH-AWD is a first for the RL, so I know that system isn't in use.
However, as others have mentioned, the "panic" button on your key fob does still work, even with the passive alarm. I've inadvertantly hit it a couple of times and scared myself to death!
-juice
However, as others have mentioned, the "panic" button on your key fob does still work, even with the passive alarm.
No. All EX models come with the remote lock controls, which include the Panic button. All it does is cause the horn to honk. It's not a "passive" alarm. Someone can break into your CR-V and steal it without anything happening...unless you see them do it and push the Panic button.
Thanks!
-Ty
I'm pretty comfortable around cars, so this one doesn't worry me. I was hoping to get advice on the minimum number and placement of bolts to swing that crossmember out of the way...or maybe hear of an easier method like dropping the filter unit. After pulling the glovebox and poking around under there though, it looks like the easiest method is to remove the bar completely.
I love Hondas, but have to admit the engineers weren't thinking clearly the day they designed the access to this filter. How about dropping the filters DOWN rather than across, Honda? At least they fixed it on Gen 2.
Actually, I'm going by what my dealer specifically told me when they delivered the CRV. I didn't just assume this stuff, and I didn't make it up. So unless they outright lied to me, then my CRV has what is called a "passive alarm."
Unless the dealer added the Honda Alarm accessory, or a 3rd party alarm system they lied...or at least misspoke.
According to Honda (American Honda Motors, not your local Honda dealer), the 2nd Gen CR-V (2002-2005 and counting) comes with an "Immobilizer Theft-Deterrent System". It's a little micro-chip embedded in the ignition key that makes the CR-V more difficult to hot wire and steal. It is not an alarm system. Does your owner's manual mention an alarm system of any kind (other than as an accessory)?
I believe that the insurance industry considers this immobilizer to be a passive alarm system. Drops your insurance rate some for this feature.
The problem I was trying to correct came from what hkfx originally said -
Yes, all EX models come with the "passive" alarm. Apparently it is an alarm that will only work if someone breaks your window and sticks their hand through.
This statement is wrong. Nothing will happen if someone breaks your window and sticks their hand inside of your CR-V. It is not an alarm that will make noise if someone breaks into your CR-V or attempts to steal it. It's a theft deterrent system that makes the CR-V harder to hot wire.
I believe you're correct that your insurance company may give you a discount on the insurance premium because the CR-V has a theft deterrent system. But it is not an alarm. My insurance company refers to it as an "Anti-theft device" not an alarm.
JM2C
I don't really know how someone could MISPEAK for a good two minutes about how if someone breaks my window and sticks their hand through, the "passive alarm" will go off.
Just proves to me again that my dealer was an a**.
This statement is wrong.
Well, I apologize, but I was grossly misinformed by my dealer.
If I said it once, I've said it 57 times..
Car salespersons are incapable of saying "I don't know". They will say anything other than that phrase, no matter how stupid or unbelievable.
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So when you find a good salesperson... keep them!
-juice
You'd be a salesperson that informed buyers would love. I'd buy from you.
As to your success at making sales quotas, maybe.
Long ago I decided I could never sell anything that I didn't believe in 100% and would buy for my personal use. That kind of limits me to selling Hondas or Macintosh computers.
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Off to the dungeon with you. King Varmint shows no mercy.
I say " I don't know but I'll find out" pretty often. I'm sure I'll be saying that a lot tomorrow when I work my shift at the Car Show.
You can't believe some of the questions we get and the car shows seem to bring out the most bizarre ones.
Guessing at an answer is the dumbest thing a salesperson can do.
regards,
kyfdx
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They got the Sales Manager, who then had to call the General Manager. He said he hadn't heard that that could happen and therefore to assume that it was safe.
I shop Honda for a good reason. They know just about everything about their products. Well, my salesman does and I've purchased four Hondas from him.
Monday I called the dealer. They said (1) to stop the alarm from going off, use the key manually in the door lock to lock and unlock the doors. (2) Put the fuse back in. Voila! Everything works fine - except the remote will have to be replaced for $95+.
They also said - if you get your remote wet - do NOT push any of the buttons, causing a short. Take the battery out of the remote and dry it with a hair dryer. You may very well be able to save it.
Hope all this is useful to anyone setting off the panic alarm - or washing their remote!
Would love to own manual but laid off in June and mortgage/car payment/food are chief priorities at this point.
Thanks,
Jim
Yes, you do. One of the latch mechanism rods is attached to the door handle and can only be removed after removing the door handle.
The hardest part is that you have to first remove the lock cylinder before removing the two nuts that hold the exterior handle on. The lock cylinder is held on by a spring clip that's nearly impossible to see. I was able to see part of it by wedging a screw driver handle under the exterior door handle to hold it open. You can then see one side of the spring. Insert a long thin screwdriver in the hole on the top of the door that the lock knob protrudes through. Use it to push the spring clip far enough down that you can grab the bottom of it with a pair of needle nosed pliers (the spring clip opens towards the top of the door). Once the spring clip has been removed, push the lock cylinder from the outside to remove it, and then unclip the rod that's attached to it.
Then unbolt the exterior door handle, remove the small plate on the inside of the door that the lock cylinder was mounted too, and pull the exterior handle (from the outside) away from the body slightly. Use a rag to keep it from scratching the paint.
You'll see that the last rod is attached to the door handle. It looks like it's screwed into the mounting point, but that's not how you remove it. The screw is actually an adjustment, not the mounting. The part that the threaded end of the rod is attached too actually comes off the door handle. The service manual recommends using diagonal cutters to pry the round end attached to the rod away from the handle. I used a putty knife. Once it's pried away slightly it comes off pretty easily. Tape the end of the rod so the adjustment doesn't change.
The round part attached to the end of the rod has a nipple that snaps into a nylon bushing. Once you pry it far enough away it comes off very easily. Don't lose the nylon bushing. The service manual recommends you replace it, but there was no damage to mine so I used the original.
I finally received the new latch mechanism and actuator, but haven't had time to replace it.
Good luck.
It's the same hydraulic system from the 1996-2004 vehicles, but it has been augmented with a one-way ball cam and pilot clutch.
I'm still trying to figure out the mechanics of the modifications.
Thanks