If you are that concerned about the break in, why not wait until the dealer gets one in? It's not the Hope Diamond - they should be getting one in soon configured as you want. That is unless it's an 04 leftover.
They drove my '98 CR-V in from another dealer.. It had 150 miles on it when I got it...
And... when it had 44K miles on it.. the glove box latch screws fell out..
I can't trace that definitively to the drive from the other dealer.. but, since that is the only thing that ever went wrong in 59K miles, I figure that has to be it.
Well, I don't know then. Maybe I shouldn't get this one. I should get the one on the lot that isn't the color that I want. I don't want the glove box screws to come out! If the dealer trade caused that much of a problem, who knows what could be next!
Also.. 38K miles on my '02.. Nothing but regular maintenance on that one... Only had 15 miles when I bought it, but I did have to drive it about 100 miles home immediately after purchase..
Most car shuttlers are retirees.. In general, the cars aren't abused, smoked in, etc, etc.. I wouldn't worry about it... As silly as it seems, color is important.. if you get a different one, you'll think about it, every time you see the color you passed up.
But, I'll be at 44K miles in about six months.. I'm keeping an eye on that glove box.
Yes,the dealer told me that the shuttler is a retiree. I agree with you. I had a second color choice and the dealer was supposed to get one of them in the next day or two. However, I like the first choice a lot so I decided to go for it. A few months from now, I'll have the color I want and I won't even remember that the car had a couple hundred miles on it when I got it. Thank you everyone for your input.
This is true.. yet, how far can a retiree drive without stopping to use the bathroom? I doubt any of the requirements would be violated on a sub-200 mile trip...
This morning (10/31) the horn started going on and off and the lights started flashing on our 2003 CR-V EX - a model which has no alarm. We could stop it by pushing any button on the electronic key - but it would start again in a few minutes. We stopped the noise by removing the horn fuse - but now we can't get the car out of "park". Has anyone else run into this? We bought the car new from a Honda dealer and have never had it serviced anywhere else. We did not add any kind of alarm
This morning (10/31) the horn started going on and off and the lights started flashing on our 2003 CR-V EX - a model which has no alarm. We could stop it by pushing any button on the electronic key - but it would start again in a few minutes. We stopped the noise by removing the horn fuse - but now we can't get the car out of "park". Has anyone else run into this? We bought the car new from a Honda dealer and have never had it serviced anywhere else. We did not add any kind of alarm
agree with rockycow, sounds like you inadvertently hit the panic button.
As far as not being able to get it out of park - haven't heard of that yet - guess you've probably already called a tow to the dealer at this point. Let us know what happened with this situation.
It is a modern interpretation of the original Ody. They never stopped selling them in other markets. In fact, they got a V6 over there, which we never saw.
They were just redesigned earlier this year (and have become a big seller). I think the last generation offered RT4WD as an option. Dunno about the new ones. SH-AWD is a first for the RL, so I know that system isn't in use.
I know this will sound silly, but when you try ti shift it out of park, is your foot on the brake pedal? It has to be due to a lock out device which prevents accidental shifting from park. May be silly, but please check it. As for the horn going off, that is indeed 'alarming'. But I thought that all of the EX models automatically came with an alarm system (?). If there is no alarm system, then why would the key fob have a panic button, other than to share parts. But the panic button would be inoperative if there were no alarm system for it to activate, right? I pull the trigger on my .45 but since it has no bullets in it it doesn't fire. I could (probably am) be wrong.
Yes, all EX models come with the "passive" alarm. Apparently it is an alarm that will only work if someone breaks your window and sticks their hand through.
However, as others have mentioned, the "panic" button on your key fob does still work, even with the passive alarm. I've inadvertantly hit it a couple of times and scared myself to death!
Yes, all EX models come with the "passive" alarm. Apparently it is an alarm that will only work if someone breaks your window and sticks their hand through.
However, as others have mentioned, the "panic" button on your key fob does still work, even with the passive alarm.
No. All EX models come with the remote lock controls, which include the Panic button. All it does is cause the horn to honk. It's not a "passive" alarm. Someone can break into your CR-V and steal it without anything happening...unless you see them do it and push the Panic button.
Has anyone seen/created instructions for replacing the pollen filter in an '00 CR-V or similar? I know the '02 and later models are a piece of cake, but the '97 to '01 models have a crossmember located right in front of the filter door that makes access a pain.
The best diagrams are in the Honda Parts Manual. You can go to the local auto stores and look at the 16.00 Haynes manuals they sell, it will give you some pictures and a starting point. Also, look on line some of the filter suppliers let you download instructions. Its not the best but it can get you started. If you are not better than a mediocre shadetree mechanic don't try it spend the 95.00 bucks which includes the filters.
I'm pretty comfortable around cars, so this one doesn't worry me. I was hoping to get advice on the minimum number and placement of bolts to swing that crossmember out of the way...or maybe hear of an easier method like dropping the filter unit. After pulling the glovebox and poking around under there though, it looks like the easiest method is to remove the bar completely.
I love Hondas, but have to admit the engineers weren't thinking clearly the day they designed the access to this filter. How about dropping the filters DOWN rather than across, Honda? At least they fixed it on Gen 2.
No. All EX models come with the remote lock controls, which include the Panic button. All it does is cause the horn to honk. It's not a "passive" alarm. Someone can break into your CR-V and steal it without anything happening...unless you see them do it and push the Panic button.
Actually, I'm going by what my dealer specifically told me when they delivered the CRV. I didn't just assume this stuff, and I didn't make it up. So unless they outright lied to me, then my CRV has what is called a "passive alarm."
Actually, I'm going by what my dealer specifically told me when they delivered the CRV. I didn't just assume this stuff, and I didn't make it up. So unless they outright lied to me, then my CRV has what is called a "passive alarm."
Unless the dealer added the Honda Alarm accessory, or a 3rd party alarm system they lied...or at least misspoke.
According to Honda (American Honda Motors, not your local Honda dealer), the 2nd Gen CR-V (2002-2005 and counting) comes with an "Immobilizer Theft-Deterrent System". It's a little micro-chip embedded in the ignition key that makes the CR-V more difficult to hot wire and steal. It is not an alarm system. Does your owner's manual mention an alarm system of any kind (other than as an accessory)?
I have a 2002 but my daughter has a 2000 and I did the filters on that car and I can't remember the number of screws I removed.Also, I seem to remember you can only remove the filters in one direction and the brace has to be removed. You can ask a honda mech. on these boards named: Auburn 63 he may know the answers to your questions
bshel said - I believe that the insurance industry considers this immobilizer to be a passive alarm system. Drops your insurance rate some for this feature.
The problem I was trying to correct came from what hkfx originally said -
Yes, all EX models come with the "passive" alarm. Apparently it is an alarm that will only work if someone breaks your window and sticks their hand through.
This statement is wrong. Nothing will happen if someone breaks your window and sticks their hand inside of your CR-V. It is not an alarm that will make noise if someone breaks into your CR-V or attempts to steal it. It's a theft deterrent system that makes the CR-V harder to hot wire.
I believe you're correct that your insurance company may give you a discount on the insurance premium because the CR-V has a theft deterrent system. But it is not an alarm. My insurance company refers to it as an "Anti-theft device" not an alarm.
Unless the dealer added the Honda Alarm accessory, or a 3rd party alarm system they lied...or at least misspoke.
I don't really know how someone could MISPEAK for a good two minutes about how if someone breaks my window and sticks their hand through, the "passive alarm" will go off.
Just proves to me again that my dealer was an a**.
Yes, all EX models come with the "passive" alarm. Apparently it is an alarm that will only work if someone breaks your window and sticks their hand through.
This statement is wrong.
Well, I apologize, but I was grossly misinformed by my dealer.
I'd like to think that (with what I've learned here and there) I might do well as a salesperson. But the truth of the matter is it probably wouldn't make a difference to 90% of the sales. And those 10% who cared wouldn't find out until after the sale was complete.
You'd be a salesperson that informed buyers would love. I'd buy from you.
As to your success at making sales quotas, maybe.
Long ago I decided I could never sell anything that I didn't believe in 100% and would buy for my personal use. That kind of limits me to selling Hondas or Macintosh computers.
Yeah.. I'd buy from you, too.. But, I'm a grinder... you'd make no money.. You would make a great salesman, but I'm afraid you would go broke.. Having a heart doesn't pay... lol
Yeah.. I have no doubt that you don't do that.. But, as we've discussed before.. you aren't exactly the typical car salesman.. and, I mean that in a good way.
When my local Toyota dealer had a Prius parked in front of their salesroom, I noticed a couple salesmen standing around smoking. I approached them and asked if I got out of the Prius with the electric motor still running, and I stepped in a puddle, would I live to tell about it.
They got the Sales Manager, who then had to call the General Manager. He said he hadn't heard that that could happen and therefore to assume that it was safe.
I shop Honda for a good reason. They know just about everything about their products. Well, my salesman does and I've purchased four Hondas from him.
Thank you all for your postings. I had forgtten about the panic button on the remote. The day before, my wife accidentally ran the remote through the wash. I then tried it on the car to see if it would still work (wrong - see below). It would not. Sunday morning - perhaps 20 hours later - we heard (from bed) what we now understand to be the panic alarm going off. We finally got the car quiet by removing the horn fuse, but then it would start but not move out of "park".
Monday I called the dealer. They said (1) to stop the alarm from going off, use the key manually in the door lock to lock and unlock the doors. (2) Put the fuse back in. Voila! Everything works fine - except the remote will have to be replaced for $95+.
They also said - if you get your remote wet - do NOT push any of the buttons, causing a short. Take the battery out of the remote and dry it with a hair dryer. You may very well be able to save it.
Hope all this is useful to anyone setting off the panic alarm - or washing their remote!
Don't have manual, but managed to get as far as being able to slide latch mechanism and lock actuator down about two inches from its installed location. Did you have to undo exterior door handle or does this mechanism/actuator slide down further (past the window channel guide) w/o breaking anything?
Would love to own manual but laid off in June and mortgage/car payment/food are chief priorities at this point.
Yes, you do. One of the latch mechanism rods is attached to the door handle and can only be removed after removing the door handle.
The hardest part is that you have to first remove the lock cylinder before removing the two nuts that hold the exterior handle on. The lock cylinder is held on by a spring clip that's nearly impossible to see. I was able to see part of it by wedging a screw driver handle under the exterior door handle to hold it open. You can then see one side of the spring. Insert a long thin screwdriver in the hole on the top of the door that the lock knob protrudes through. Use it to push the spring clip far enough down that you can grab the bottom of it with a pair of needle nosed pliers (the spring clip opens towards the top of the door). Once the spring clip has been removed, push the lock cylinder from the outside to remove it, and then unclip the rod that's attached to it.
Then unbolt the exterior door handle, remove the small plate on the inside of the door that the lock cylinder was mounted too, and pull the exterior handle (from the outside) away from the body slightly. Use a rag to keep it from scratching the paint.
You'll see that the last rod is attached to the door handle. It looks like it's screwed into the mounting point, but that's not how you remove it. The screw is actually an adjustment, not the mounting. The part that the threaded end of the rod is attached too actually comes off the door handle. The service manual recommends using diagonal cutters to pry the round end attached to the rod away from the handle. I used a putty knife. Once it's pried away slightly it comes off pretty easily. Tape the end of the rod so the adjustment doesn't change.
The round part attached to the end of the rod has a nipple that snaps into a nylon bushing. Once you pry it far enough away it comes off very easily. Don't lose the nylon bushing. The service manual recommends you replace it, but there was no damage to mine so I used the original.
I finally received the new latch mechanism and actuator, but haven't had time to replace it.
Can anyone tell me the difference in the new drive system as it is supposed to be a new type of real time 4wheel drive cam driven & not hydrolic? thanks bob
I've found lots of good sites (nada.com, kbb.com) don't have 2005 prices for accessories for Honda CR-V. I am buying my first ever new car, a 2005 CR-V, and am trying to get accurate price info before I go into dealers. So far, one dealer quoted me an invoice and MSRP six or seven hundred dollars above the one listed on kbb, nada, etc. Is this a typical tactic? Know where I can get the accessory invoice prices? (There seems to be agreement that invoice for an LX 4WD Auto is 19580 before destination charges.)
Comments
And... when it had 44K miles on it.. the glove box latch screws fell out..
I can't trace that definitively to the drive from the other dealer.. but, since that is the only thing that ever went wrong in 59K miles, I figure that has to be it.
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Most car shuttlers are retirees.. In general, the cars aren't abused, smoked in, etc, etc.. I wouldn't worry about it... As silly as it seems, color is important.. if you get a different one, you'll think about it, every time you see the color you passed up.
But, I'll be at 44K miles in about six months.. I'm keeping an eye on that glove box.
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Thank you everyone for your input.
Except for Hondas, which have specific language in the Owners Manual about how you should drive your new Honda during the break in period.
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Except the one about varying the speed during the break in period (i.e. don't use the cruise control).
As far as not being able to get it out of park - haven't heard of that yet - guess you've probably already called a tow to the dealer at this point. Let us know what happened with this situation.
I parked next to it and checked it out. Looked like a thoroughly modern reincarnation of the '98 Odyssey sold here.
Add AWD and it would be just about ideal. Do they make them with SH-AWD?
It had diplomatic plates, probably an employee of the Japanese Embassy.
We get a lot of unique cars and trucks, I've seen some Renaults and even a diesel Discovery, but this was the first JDM car I've seen.
-juice
-juice
It is a modern interpretation of the original Ody. They never stopped selling them in other markets. In fact, they got a V6 over there, which we never saw.
They were just redesigned earlier this year (and have become a big seller). I think the last generation offered RT4WD as an option. Dunno about the new ones. SH-AWD is a first for the RL, so I know that system isn't in use.
However, as others have mentioned, the "panic" button on your key fob does still work, even with the passive alarm. I've inadvertantly hit it a couple of times and scared myself to death!
-juice
However, as others have mentioned, the "panic" button on your key fob does still work, even with the passive alarm.
No. All EX models come with the remote lock controls, which include the Panic button. All it does is cause the horn to honk. It's not a "passive" alarm. Someone can break into your CR-V and steal it without anything happening...unless you see them do it and push the Panic button.
Thanks!
-Ty
I'm pretty comfortable around cars, so this one doesn't worry me. I was hoping to get advice on the minimum number and placement of bolts to swing that crossmember out of the way...or maybe hear of an easier method like dropping the filter unit. After pulling the glovebox and poking around under there though, it looks like the easiest method is to remove the bar completely.
I love Hondas, but have to admit the engineers weren't thinking clearly the day they designed the access to this filter. How about dropping the filters DOWN rather than across, Honda? At least they fixed it on Gen 2.
Actually, I'm going by what my dealer specifically told me when they delivered the CRV. I didn't just assume this stuff, and I didn't make it up. So unless they outright lied to me, then my CRV has what is called a "passive alarm."
Unless the dealer added the Honda Alarm accessory, or a 3rd party alarm system they lied...or at least misspoke.
According to Honda (American Honda Motors, not your local Honda dealer), the 2nd Gen CR-V (2002-2005 and counting) comes with an "Immobilizer Theft-Deterrent System". It's a little micro-chip embedded in the ignition key that makes the CR-V more difficult to hot wire and steal. It is not an alarm system. Does your owner's manual mention an alarm system of any kind (other than as an accessory)?
I believe that the insurance industry considers this immobilizer to be a passive alarm system. Drops your insurance rate some for this feature.
The problem I was trying to correct came from what hkfx originally said -
Yes, all EX models come with the "passive" alarm. Apparently it is an alarm that will only work if someone breaks your window and sticks their hand through.
This statement is wrong. Nothing will happen if someone breaks your window and sticks their hand inside of your CR-V. It is not an alarm that will make noise if someone breaks into your CR-V or attempts to steal it. It's a theft deterrent system that makes the CR-V harder to hot wire.
I believe you're correct that your insurance company may give you a discount on the insurance premium because the CR-V has a theft deterrent system. But it is not an alarm. My insurance company refers to it as an "Anti-theft device" not an alarm.
JM2C
I don't really know how someone could MISPEAK for a good two minutes about how if someone breaks my window and sticks their hand through, the "passive alarm" will go off.
Just proves to me again that my dealer was an a**.
This statement is wrong.
Well, I apologize, but I was grossly misinformed by my dealer.
If I said it once, I've said it 57 times..
Car salespersons are incapable of saying "I don't know". They will say anything other than that phrase, no matter how stupid or unbelievable.
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So when you find a good salesperson... keep them!
-juice
You'd be a salesperson that informed buyers would love. I'd buy from you.
As to your success at making sales quotas, maybe.
Long ago I decided I could never sell anything that I didn't believe in 100% and would buy for my personal use. That kind of limits me to selling Hondas or Macintosh computers.
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Off to the dungeon with you. King Varmint shows no mercy.
I say " I don't know but I'll find out" pretty often. I'm sure I'll be saying that a lot tomorrow when I work my shift at the Car Show.
You can't believe some of the questions we get and the car shows seem to bring out the most bizarre ones.
Guessing at an answer is the dumbest thing a salesperson can do.
regards,
kyfdx
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They got the Sales Manager, who then had to call the General Manager. He said he hadn't heard that that could happen and therefore to assume that it was safe.
I shop Honda for a good reason. They know just about everything about their products. Well, my salesman does and I've purchased four Hondas from him.
Monday I called the dealer. They said (1) to stop the alarm from going off, use the key manually in the door lock to lock and unlock the doors. (2) Put the fuse back in. Voila! Everything works fine - except the remote will have to be replaced for $95+.
They also said - if you get your remote wet - do NOT push any of the buttons, causing a short. Take the battery out of the remote and dry it with a hair dryer. You may very well be able to save it.
Hope all this is useful to anyone setting off the panic alarm - or washing their remote!
Would love to own manual but laid off in June and mortgage/car payment/food are chief priorities at this point.
Thanks,
Jim
Yes, you do. One of the latch mechanism rods is attached to the door handle and can only be removed after removing the door handle.
The hardest part is that you have to first remove the lock cylinder before removing the two nuts that hold the exterior handle on. The lock cylinder is held on by a spring clip that's nearly impossible to see. I was able to see part of it by wedging a screw driver handle under the exterior door handle to hold it open. You can then see one side of the spring. Insert a long thin screwdriver in the hole on the top of the door that the lock knob protrudes through. Use it to push the spring clip far enough down that you can grab the bottom of it with a pair of needle nosed pliers (the spring clip opens towards the top of the door). Once the spring clip has been removed, push the lock cylinder from the outside to remove it, and then unclip the rod that's attached to it.
Then unbolt the exterior door handle, remove the small plate on the inside of the door that the lock cylinder was mounted too, and pull the exterior handle (from the outside) away from the body slightly. Use a rag to keep it from scratching the paint.
You'll see that the last rod is attached to the door handle. It looks like it's screwed into the mounting point, but that's not how you remove it. The screw is actually an adjustment, not the mounting. The part that the threaded end of the rod is attached too actually comes off the door handle. The service manual recommends using diagonal cutters to pry the round end attached to the rod away from the handle. I used a putty knife. Once it's pried away slightly it comes off pretty easily. Tape the end of the rod so the adjustment doesn't change.
The round part attached to the end of the rod has a nipple that snaps into a nylon bushing. Once you pry it far enough away it comes off very easily. Don't lose the nylon bushing. The service manual recommends you replace it, but there was no damage to mine so I used the original.
I finally received the new latch mechanism and actuator, but haven't had time to replace it.
Good luck.
It's the same hydraulic system from the 1996-2004 vehicles, but it has been augmented with a one-way ball cam and pilot clutch.
I'm still trying to figure out the mechanics of the modifications.
Thanks