For more information about what each bullet on that list might "mean", you can try this thread. The link below takes you to a point about half-way through the discussion when real information (not speculation) started to become available. Feel free to post your own comments or questions over there.
Stevedebi - I think we need to define a few terms just in case some folks lurking here just got confused.
The original design for the Escape had a locking feature. This allowed the driver to press a button on the dash, locking the rear differential to the prop shaft and thus powering both the front and rear axles all the time.
You mentioned low range which is a completely different animal. (I think you know that and just made a mistake with your wording.) Low range gearing is a transfer case that alters the gearing of the transmission. It's used to make the most of the engine's power and give the driver more control over the speed of the wheels.
It's true that the 2005 Escape does not have the locking feature found on earlier models. I agree this was a nice feature, but it might have led to problems with damaging the system (binding) if owners engaged it on dry pavement or in mixed conditions. Hence it *may* have been a reliability risk.
The old system was praised most often for providing seamless operation. It kicked in when needed and did so in a manner that the driver barely noticed. (One of the niggles with the RT4WD system in the CR-V is that it engages abruptly if the driver has a heavy foot.)
That said, the old system was ranked slower to react than the CR-V's. (Both are faster than the VUE.) This from an older TruckTrend article. It appears that the Escape was smoother, but not faster.
Here's an excerpt from one review of the new design:
"The Escape's all-wheel-drive system is now completely automatic - there is no centre differential lock for 50/50 front/rear torque distribution. The new AWD system runs in front-wheel-drive but continuously varies the torque sent to the rear wheels depending on how much is needed. It also senses tight turns and prevents 'binding' and driveline harshness that can occur in 4X4's with a locked differential. The new AWD system also improves fuel economy."
Another review reports that the activation of the system is (still) seamless and no mention has been made of it being slow.
If a system reacts fast enough, I see no need for a locking feature. The typical driver will never need it. Even in Alaska or Canada where driving in the snow is inevitable. So I think this design is still an upgrade to the old, despite the lack of a lock option.
To my eye, the new webpages devoted to the '05 CR-V at the www.hondacars.com site make it look a bit like a Subaru or Volvo. Nice views of the CR-V.
I'm gaining a new appreciation of the attractiveness of the CR-V.
As a new '04 owner, the only suggestion I'd make to Honda is to make the emergency brake less cute and enticing to set everytime I park it. ;-) (Too many times I forget to disengage it until I pull off into traffic.)
Is there a good way to stand a mtn. bike up in the CR-V? How do you keep it from tipping over and can you secure it using ropes or bungie cords? I've seen the CR-V catalog and it shows two bikes standing up with the 60-split of the rear seat folded down. I just wonder how they'll stand up when cornering, etc.
Eventually, I'll get a trailer hitch receiver added and then purchase a hitch-mounted rack. But until then, I plan to transport two mtn. bikes inside.
Ironically, my friend just hit 2 deers today. (and in the suburbs of southern california) His MB E320's airbags did not deploy as well, so I suspect the deers did not register high enough of a force. So, I believe that the cr-v's safety system was operating normally. His repair costs, however, were several thousands more than the cr-v's estimate. I hope this helps.
Some companies sell a "rack" that fits in the back of many SUVs and vans. It includes a bar that spans the width of the cargo area and attachments that anchor the forks of the bike to that bar. You might check to see if any company make one that fits the CR-V.
Funny, I think I've seen that sold by Saturn as an accessory for their Vue. But I'll do some internet searches.
I did get my 21" frame Trek in the back yesterday. Had to tilt the bike sideways to get the seat to clear--next time I'll just lower the seat. But once in, I could see it falling over--or forward--during driving.
So an inside hitching post would be a welcome addition.
One thing I've noticed with my CR-V is that as I come up to a stop and finally stop, there's a slight click I hear and feel through the steering wheel. Is that something that needs to be tightened next time I visit the service dept.? It's a very small click, but if it requires some preventative maintenance, I'd be glad to get it taken care of sooner than later.
One thing I've noticed with my CR-V is that as I come up to a stop and finally stop, there's a slight click I hear and feel through the steering wheel.
It's probably the reverse lock out device disengaging (it prevents you from accidentally shifting into reverse while the vehicle is moving forward), and therefore is normal.
Thanks Raydahs, those are the kind of racks I was talking about. When the Xterra first came to market, Nissan featured their own OEM rack in quite a few of their publicity photos and commercials.
And Racoon is right about the reverse lock-out solenoid. That's probably what you are hearing.
Hmmm. I put my MTB on a rack on top because of the MUD. 1 time out of 4 I end up getting caught out in the rain or I go though enough MUD to not want to put the MTB "in" my car.
The two times I took it out before getting clamps to fit my existing rack tot eh CRV, I just put a ols bed sheet in the back, tooks the front wheel off and laid the bike on its side.
Racoon, Varmint: I agree about the lock-out solenoid. I rested my hand on the emergency brake and that's where I felt the "click" most directly. I'm pretty inexperienced with automatics so I was just sensitive to something that's normal for this kind of transmission.
RE: mud on mtn. bikes...I've got a giant plastic camping tarp. I thought about wrapping the bike in it and slipping the bike into the CR-V on its side.
I'll continue to research the inside-rack and report what I find.
Mud is the reason the hitch-mounted racks are the best.
Overhead, you have to lift the bikes carefully to prevent damage. Then the mud drips onto - your roof! Overhead clearance may be a problem, and you can't pull into a garage.
Inside it's even more of a mess. Get an Element so at least you can wipe it down easily. I've had oil from the chains stain a car I had in the past.
Behind you, on a hitch, the bikes never touch the vehicle, they don't even come close. Mine even tilts out of the way. Mud drips off behind the vehicle.
Spare mount is OK, but they tend to mount the bikes higher up and block more of your view.
The only thing better would be if I could design the aerodynamics so that the mud actually blew off on to the car that was tailgating me...
I don't bike, but Mrs. Varmint and I do hike. We just keep a gallon of H2O in the car with a rag. Anything covered in mud gets a quick shower before going in the back. It's often necessary for puppy paws, as well.
A gallon jug is a good idea. We use one to rinse sand off our feet after hitting the beach.
It's also a heat sink. It actually absorbs heat inside the car in the summer (greenhouse effect), so we have warm water to rinse with, plus the interior doesn't get as hot.
I can't remember for certain, but doesn't the JDM CR-V have a little shower attachment? Or was that just the concept vehicle?
I'm tellin' ya, you gotta bring the hounds down to Dewey Beach for that annual gathering they have for Greyhound owners, it's in the fall I think.
That's right. You can get that shower attachment through a few US sources, too. It's just a solar-heated bag with a hose (like those used on boats). Nothing fancy about it.
Would someone enlighten us about getting a hitch receiver added to the CR-V. There seem to be different diameters. Honda can add one at the dealer, but I think it's a ball and hitch which wouldn't be useful for bike racks (I guess).
In deciding on a hitch, should you also think about potential uses of the hitch other than supporting a bike rack? Is there a hitch diameter that serves bike racks and a light trailer or camper?
The different size receivers are used (primarily) for different tow ratings. The CR-V falls into the Class I category, so a one and a quarter inch receiver is all most people will need. I have a 1.25" hitch made by Hidden Hitch on my 1999 CR-V.
Other CR-Vers have purchased two inch hitches. These are typically class II or even class III hitches. Even though the CR-V cannot tow the weight that these hitches are designed for, they often go with these large hitches for practical reasons. One of those reasons is the fact that hitch accessories (bikes racks, baskets, ski racks, etc.) are more common in the 2" size.
(Then there are the people who just like the look of a beefy hitch.)
I think you should consider any other uses when buying a hitch. And I also think you might be well served by thinking about something other than a dedicated bike rack. Here's what I mean...
I got my hitch to support a cargo basket (platform-like thingy). See the link below for one example. I use the basket along with a rubbermaid container to cart luggage and extra stuff when the back of my CR-V is filled with dogs. I'm sure you can find a few uses yourself.
Anyway, some of these baskets have the option of adding a post and support arm that turn them into bike carriers. By going this route, you have greater versatility.
Great site you recommended, Varmint. I see what you mean about the 2" hitch popularity. And thanks for clarifying that the tow limitations of the CR-V make the 1.25" hitch the proper one (although not the only choice for non-towing applications).
I saw a Toyota Corolla with one of those cargo baskets on back. The first thing I thought of was that scene in Planes, Trains and Automobiles when John Candy navigates between the two trucks and then slams on the brakes, casting the his steamer trunk up and over the car and onto the freeway ahead of them.
I noticed that my dealer (or salesman) wrote out all of the codes for key, radio, and HN on the inside of the back cover of the Owner's Manual. Does this mean that I need to keep the manual out of my CR-V until or unless I paste something over it that masks out those codes?
What does "HN" stand for among these security codes?
Actually, that was just the first site that came up on a google search. It had a pic of the basket mounted on a vehicle, so I figured it worked.
This link has a list of the attachments you'd need to modify the basket for bikes. It should give you a better idea of what's possible and what's not.
I dunno about the HN, but the security codes should not be kept in the car. My codes were included with the manual back in 1999, so I think this is standard practice for Honda.
Yep, I keep the owner's manual out of the car until I can cover or cut out the codes. Or, until I can memorize the manual and then allow it to stay at home while I drive. ;-)
Seriously, I did read something interesting. The manual says to set the parking brake while you are stopped and the transmission still in Drive. Then you're supposed to shift to Park and turn the vehicle off. The parking brake supposedly reduces the wear on the "parking mechanism" of the transmission.
I am currently cross-shopping the CRV,RAV4 and Forester like many have before me. One of my primary criterions is to have a good safe winter car. I wonder what experiences the forum readers have with the CRV in wet slush and snow especially at highway speeds or when cornering. Specifically, I wonder if the "slow" activation of the AWD system makes the car shimmy when encountering slippage on slush at speed. ( I am assuming with winter tires here). Would the new ESP system (?VSC) help with this if it is currently a problem? I have another question as well. A company called Rostra makes aftermarket heated seats. I wonder if anyone has experience with these. Would they interfere with the side airbag? They are $250 installed for one seat and heat the back as well as the seat. Lastly, is it considered poor form to post these questions to the Forester and RAV4 forums as well?
"Specifically, I wonder if the "slow" activation of the AWD system makes the car shimmy when encountering slippage on slush at speed. ( I am assuming with winter tires here). Would the new ESP system (?VSC) help with this if it is currently a problem?"
I have never had problems in slippery conditions, but there is no question that the Subaru full time four wheel drive system is superior to any part time auto-engage system. So if that is your main criteria, and you can use the rear seats of the Subaru, then you might want to lean that way.
I just finished a trip to New Mexico, and I got the following mileage:
Low: 26 MPG @ 78 MPH average (well, OK, it was 25.8 MPG to be precise) High: 30 MPG @ 70 MPH average - all above 6000 feet.
I have noticed before that the MPG increases at higher altitudes, but it never occurred to me before that I was using 88 octane in New Mexico - they don't have 87, which is the minimum. Now I'm wondering if the higher octange does actually help.
I am finally going to get rid of the OEM tires on my 2002 CRV. What are all of you recommending these days? I would like something that would reduce the road noise. Also I live in North Texas so it is rare that I have to deal with ice or snow.
It sounds like you are shopping the 2005 CR-V. Along with the addition of VSA, Honda has changed the design of the RT4WD system (AWD). It no longer works the way in which most of us are familiar.
Snow can be a concern for several reasons. If you drive mostly plowed roads and don't mind the smaller size of the RAV4 and Forester, then those are probably better choices. If you have to drive in the snow before it gets plowed, then the CR-V (with greater ground clearance) may be the better choice.
VSA will certainly benefit the all-weather capability of the vehicle. It helps to keep the car moving straight during skids. It will help prevent a slight skid from turning into a major spin. I believe that the RAV4 offers this on several trims (not sure about the Soob).
I'm not familiar with Rostra seats. I know that Katskinz makes leather seating that works with the side airbags. They use a laser to "perforate" the stitching on the side bolster where the bag deploys. I would check to see if Rostra offers the same.
I would also be wary of the having the back of the seat heated if you replace the passenger seat. Honda's side airbags (the seat-mounted ones) use a set of sensors in the seatback to detect if the occupant is out of position. They might be leaning against the door, or something. If the sensors detect this, they will disable the bags until the passenger sits upright.
For that reason, Honda does not install a heater pad on the back of the passenger seat.
Lastly, it's never bad form to ask questions in these threads. If you are looking for the opinions of RAV4 and Forester owners about the CR-V, you might try any one of the comparison threads.
Thanks for your detailed reply. Regarding the heated sets; Rostra, the brand I mentioned makes a heated set insert which goes under the existing seat upholstery. It ( and another brand whos name I do not remember) are placed both on the seat and seatback according to the diagram I saw. I think that this would rule them out due to the airbags. There would really be no way to know if installation had interfered with the airbag sensors.
I have noticed before that the MPG increases at higher altitudes, but it never occurred to me before that I was using 88 octane in New Mexico - they don't have 87, which is the minimum. Now I'm wondering if the higher octange does actually help.
Octane is a measure of how well the fuel resists knocking, not a measure of the energy in the fuel. Running a higher octane will not increase the mileage you get. It's much more likely that the lower speed you were driving was the major contribution to better mileage.
Just want to pass on a suggestion that works well if you happen to have the type of garage door with horizontal support ribs that run the width of the door. To prevent the side hinged rear cargo door from bumping the closed garage door, slip a portion of gray foam water pipe insulation over the horizontal rib on the garage door that aligns with contact point of the CRV cargo door. You can buy these in lengths of ten feet at the building center and they are pre-cut. I used the medium circumference one and it works great. Two minutes to install.
You can always have them do the full install on your driver's seat and also the seat cushion on the passenger side. It's just the passenger seat back you need to ask them about.
For anyone will a support column in the middle of your garage, you can also try this. Buy a 5 ft. length of thin plastic conduit. The kind of stuff you might use when buying a pipe or electrical line underground. Buy it large enough to surround the column and leave a 1-2 inch gap. Fill it with packing "peanuts" and tape up the seams.
I'm a CR-V and Forester owner - I prefer the Subie for winter driving (heated seats, defrosting side view mirrors, defrosting wipers...) and for off-roading (lower profile and better handling on turns). I think it handles less top-heavy than the CR-V. The CR-V is a better all-around hauler of stuff and people and feels more roomy to some.
here's my solution for a column in the garage. get some foundation insulation. it comes in a roll about six inches wide. wind around pole at an angle. keep it a few inches off the floor, 2 layers, fasten with clear packing tape(each layer). cheap, easy, and works well.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
If you're only getting 21/22 out of your CR-V you're unlikely to get 20 out of a Pilot. Driving habits can drastically affect your MPG.
I regularly get 24-25 MPG around town in my '99 EX 5 speed manual, and 28+ on the highway. Best ever was 31 MPG highway at speeds of 55-60 with the A/C off.
Did anybody tried to use 5W-20 Motocraft semi synthetic oil blend on 03/05 Honda CR-V? Why, on your opinion, 5W-20 Motocraft semi synthetic oil blend is cheaper than regular 5W-20 Pennsoil oil? There is a 45 cents difference per Quart.
I've got a '99 CRV that just turned 100K miles, big milestone so I thought I'd post my experiences. I bought it new in May 2004, it's an LX 2WD model.
- I've done ALL the maintenance as described in the owner's manual myself according to the severe use tables.
- New tires at 55K miles. I bought a set of Michelen X-Ones and they probably have another year and a half left. I ordered them through Wal-Mart who also installed them. For $10 per tire I got mounting, balance, new valve stems, lifetime rotations, re-balancing, and road hazard protection.
- Front brake job (new pads, turn rotors, repack wheel bearings in new grease, new brake fluid) at 40K and 85K miles. Rear brakes checked out fine. Done at a small garage where I know and trust the owner.
- New battery after 3 yrs.
A couple of problems......
1) Auto. door locks don't work. When I hit unlock or lock, I hear the click and can see the knob on the driver's door move slightly, but it doesn't move up or down enough. I just haven't had the time to take the door apart yet.
2) The tranny on cool mornings before warming up does what I call a neutral drop sometimes. The tranny downshifts when I hit the gas coming out of the turn but the engine revs up too much before dropping into gear. I've had to "baby" the gas pedal to wait for the tranny to down shift before stepping on it. Very annoying..... Tranny fluid has been changed three times since I've owned the CRV.
In my lifetime of car ownership (almost 30 yrs), nothing has come close to the CRV in terms of overall satisfaction.
Comments
http://hondanews.com/CatID2031?mid=2004091059755&mime=asc
For more information about what each bullet on that list might "mean", you can try this thread. The link below takes you to a point about half-way through the discussion when real information (not speculation) started to become available. Feel free to post your own comments or questions over there.
rsholland "2005 Honda CR-V?" Aug 28, 2004 11:44am
The original design for the Escape had a locking feature. This allowed the driver to press a button on the dash, locking the rear differential to the prop shaft and thus powering both the front and rear axles all the time.
You mentioned low range which is a completely different animal. (I think you know that and just made a mistake with your wording.) Low range gearing is a transfer case that alters the gearing of the transmission. It's used to make the most of the engine's power and give the driver more control over the speed of the wheels.
The old system was praised most often for providing seamless operation. It kicked in when needed and did so in a manner that the driver barely noticed. (One of the niggles with the RT4WD system in the CR-V is that it engages abruptly if the driver has a heavy foot.)
That said, the old system was ranked slower to react than the CR-V's. (Both are faster than the VUE.) This from an older TruckTrend article. It appears that the Escape was smoother, but not faster.
Here's an excerpt from one review of the new design:
"The Escape's all-wheel-drive system is now completely automatic - there is no centre differential lock for 50/50 front/rear torque distribution. The new AWD system runs in front-wheel-drive but continuously varies the torque sent to the rear wheels depending on how much is needed. It also senses tight turns and prevents 'binding' and driveline harshness that can occur in 4X4's with a locked differential. The new AWD system also improves fuel economy."
Another review reports that the activation of the system is (still) seamless and no mention has been made of it being slow.
If a system reacts fast enough, I see no need for a locking feature. The typical driver will never need it. Even in Alaska or Canada where driving in the snow is inevitable. So I think this design is still an upgrade to the old, despite the lack of a lock option.
I'm gaining a new appreciation of the attractiveness of the CR-V.
As a new '04 owner, the only suggestion I'd make to Honda is to make the emergency brake less cute and enticing to set everytime I park it. ;-) (Too many times I forget to disengage it until I pull off into traffic.)
Yup, my silly typing fingers...
Eventually, I'll get a trailer hitch receiver added and then purchase a hitch-mounted rack. But until then, I plan to transport two mtn. bikes inside.
That system sounds like what I'm looking for. Can you think of any company names? Or what I would google for?
Thanks,
Norah
I did get my 21" frame Trek in the back yesterday. Had to tilt the bike sideways to get the seat to clear--next time I'll just lower the seat. But once in, I could see it falling over--or forward--during driving.
So an inside hitching post would be a welcome addition.
It's probably the reverse lock out device disengaging (it prevents you from accidentally shifting into reverse while the vehicle is moving forward), and therefore is normal.
http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=14641&sub- - category_ID=4413
http://www.saris.com/products/traps47singletrack.htm
And Racoon is right about the reverse lock-out solenoid. That's probably what you are hearing.
The two times I took it out before getting clamps to fit my existing rack tot eh CRV, I just put a ols bed sheet in the back, tooks the front wheel off and laid the bike on its side.
RE: mud on mtn. bikes...I've got a giant plastic camping tarp. I thought about wrapping the bike in it and slipping the bike into the CR-V on its side.
I'll continue to research the inside-rack and report what I find.
Overhead, you have to lift the bikes carefully to prevent damage. Then the mud drips onto - your roof! Overhead clearance may be a problem, and you can't pull into a garage.
Inside it's even more of a mess. Get an Element so at least you can wipe it down easily. I've had oil from the chains stain a car I had in the past.
Behind you, on a hitch, the bikes never touch the vehicle, they don't even come close. Mine even tilts out of the way. Mud drips off behind the vehicle.
Spare mount is OK, but they tend to mount the bikes higher up and block more of your view.
The only thing better would be if I could design the aerodynamics so that the mud actually blew off on to the car that was tailgating me...
-juice
It's also a heat sink. It actually absorbs heat inside the car in the summer (greenhouse effect), so we have warm water to rinse with, plus the interior doesn't get as hot.
I can't remember for certain, but doesn't the JDM CR-V have a little shower attachment? Or was that just the concept vehicle?
I'm tellin' ya, you gotta bring the hounds down to Dewey Beach for that annual gathering they have for Greyhound owners, it's in the fall I think.
-juice
-juice
I remember when a car full of sand and seats that reeked of salt at the end of the summer proved that I had a good summer.
I have a 5 gallon bucket and fill that up about half way. Then the kids can dip their feet in (and have fun doing so).
That catch? It weighs a bunch and I'm usually carrying chairs, umbrella, shovels, buckets, cooler, lotion, etc.
When I do that I also have a water bottle in the cargo area for "clean" water.
-juice
Ah yes - the ubiquitous daddius beast of burdenus.
The AWD handled it nicely last time, in the Outer banks.
-juice
Would someone enlighten us about getting a hitch receiver added to the CR-V. There seem to be different diameters. Honda can add one at the dealer, but I think it's a ball and hitch which wouldn't be useful for bike racks (I guess).
In deciding on a hitch, should you also think about potential uses of the hitch other than supporting a bike rack? Is there a hitch diameter that serves bike racks and a light trailer or camper?
The different size receivers are used (primarily) for different tow ratings. The CR-V falls into the Class I category, so a one and a quarter inch receiver is all most people will need. I have a 1.25" hitch made by Hidden Hitch on my 1999 CR-V.
Other CR-Vers have purchased two inch hitches. These are typically class II or even class III hitches. Even though the CR-V cannot tow the weight that these hitches are designed for, they often go with these large hitches for practical reasons. One of those reasons is the fact that hitch accessories (bikes racks, baskets, ski racks, etc.) are more common in the 2" size.
(Then there are the people who just like the look of a beefy hitch.)
I think you should consider any other uses when buying a hitch. And I also think you might be well served by thinking about something other than a dedicated bike rack. Here's what I mean...
I got my hitch to support a cargo basket (platform-like thingy). See the link below for one example. I use the basket along with a rubbermaid container to cart luggage and extra stuff when the back of my CR-V is filled with dogs. I'm sure you can find a few uses yourself.
http://www.accessconnect.com/hitch_mount_basket_carrier_class.htm
Anyway, some of these baskets have the option of adding a post and support arm that turn them into bike carriers. By going this route, you have greater versatility.
Just means doing some homework.
I saw a Toyota Corolla with one of those cargo baskets on back. The first thing I thought of was that scene in Planes, Trains and Automobiles when John Candy navigates between the two trucks and then slams on the brakes, casting the his steamer trunk up and over the car and onto the freeway ahead of them.
What does "HN" stand for among these security codes?
This link has a list of the attachments you'd need to modify the basket for bikes. It should give you a better idea of what's possible and what's not.
I dunno about the HN, but the security codes should not be kept in the car. My codes were included with the manual back in 1999, so I think this is standard practice for Honda.
Seriously, I did read something interesting. The manual says to set the parking brake while you are stopped and the transmission still in Drive. Then you're supposed to shift to Park and turn the vehicle off. The parking brake supposedly reduces the wear on the "parking mechanism" of the transmission.
Thanks for the link. I'll explore that one, too.
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
Edmunds Moderator
I have another question as well. A company called Rostra makes aftermarket heated seats. I wonder if anyone has experience with these. Would they interfere with the side airbag? They are $250 installed for one seat and heat the back as well as the seat.
Lastly, is it considered poor form to post these questions to the Forester and RAV4 forums as well?
I have never had problems in slippery conditions, but there is no question that the Subaru full time four wheel drive system is superior to any part time auto-engage system. So if that is your main criteria, and you can use the rear seats of the Subaru, then you might want to lean that way.
I just finished a trip to New Mexico, and I got the following mileage:
Low: 26 MPG @ 78 MPH average (well, OK, it was 25.8 MPG to be precise)
High: 30 MPG @ 70 MPH average - all above 6000 feet.
I have noticed before that the MPG increases at higher altitudes, but it never occurred to me before that I was using 88 octane in New Mexico - they don't have 87, which is the minimum. Now I'm wondering if the higher octange does actually help.
Thanks
It sounds like you are shopping the 2005 CR-V. Along with the addition of VSA, Honda has changed the design of the RT4WD system (AWD). It no longer works the way in which most of us are familiar.
Snow can be a concern for several reasons. If you drive mostly plowed roads and don't mind the smaller size of the RAV4 and Forester, then those are probably better choices. If you have to drive in the snow before it gets plowed, then the CR-V (with greater ground clearance) may be the better choice.
VSA will certainly benefit the all-weather capability of the vehicle. It helps to keep the car moving straight during skids. It will help prevent a slight skid from turning into a major spin. I believe that the RAV4 offers this on several trims (not sure about the Soob).
I'm not familiar with Rostra seats. I know that Katskinz makes leather seating that works with the side airbags. They use a laser to "perforate" the stitching on the side bolster where the bag deploys. I would check to see if Rostra offers the same.
I would also be wary of the having the back of the seat heated if you replace the passenger seat. Honda's side airbags (the seat-mounted ones) use a set of sensors in the seatback to detect if the occupant is out of position. They might be leaning against the door, or something. If the sensors detect this, they will disable the bags until the passenger sits upright.
For that reason, Honda does not install a heater pad on the back of the passenger seat.
Lastly, it's never bad form to ask questions in these threads. If you are looking for the opinions of RAV4 and Forester owners about the CR-V, you might try any one of the comparison threads.
Stock size.
Good luck.
Refereeguy
Octane is a measure of how well the fuel resists knocking, not a measure of the energy in the fuel. Running a higher octane will not increase the mileage you get. It's much more likely that the lower speed you were driving was the major contribution to better mileage.
For anyone will a support column in the middle of your garage, you can also try this. Buy a 5 ft. length of thin plastic conduit. The kind of stuff you might use when buying a pipe or electrical line underground. Buy it large enough to surround the column and leave a 1-2 inch gap. Fill it with packing "peanuts" and tape up the seams.
Our MPG has steadily decreased over time. We used to get 24/25 now 3 yrs later we only get about 21/22.
We had the 30k service done 9 months ago, and have oil changes done every 3750 miles. It isn't driven hard at all.
We keep thinking that a Pilot would get about 20MPG on the highway, maybe it's time to move up..
Here are the EPA estimates from Honda's website:
2005 CR-V
23/29 LX FWD 5 speed automatic
22/27 LX/EX/SE RT4WD 5 speed automatic
21/26 EX RT4WD 5 speed manual
2005 Pilot
17/22 5 speed automatic
If you're only getting 21/22 out of your CR-V you're unlikely to get 20 out of a Pilot. Driving habits can drastically affect your MPG.
I regularly get 24-25 MPG around town in my '99 EX 5 speed manual, and 28+ on the highway. Best ever was 31 MPG highway at speeds of 55-60 with the A/C off.
JM2C
Why, on your opinion, 5W-20 Motocraft semi synthetic oil blend is cheaper than regular 5W-20 Pennsoil oil? There is a 45 cents difference per Quart.
- I've done ALL the maintenance as described in the owner's manual myself according to the severe use tables.
- New tires at 55K miles. I bought a set of Michelen X-Ones and they probably have another year and a half left. I ordered them through Wal-Mart who also installed them. For $10 per tire I got mounting, balance, new valve stems, lifetime rotations, re-balancing, and road hazard protection.
- Front brake job (new pads, turn rotors, repack wheel bearings in new grease, new brake fluid) at 40K and 85K miles. Rear brakes checked out fine. Done at a small garage where I know and trust the owner.
- New battery after 3 yrs.
A couple of problems......
1) Auto. door locks don't work. When I hit unlock or lock, I hear the click and can see the knob on the driver's door move slightly, but it doesn't move up or down enough. I just haven't had the time to take the door apart yet.
2) The tranny on cool mornings before warming up does what I call a neutral drop sometimes. The tranny downshifts when I hit the gas coming out of the turn but the engine revs up too much before dropping into gear. I've had to "baby" the gas pedal to wait for the tranny to down shift before stepping on it. Very annoying..... Tranny fluid has been changed three times since I've owned the CRV.
In my lifetime of car ownership (almost 30 yrs), nothing has come close to the CRV in terms of overall satisfaction.