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Ford Expedition



  • alwaysfordsalwaysfords Posts: 210
    It is a minimal drain, and after 15-20 minutes they go out if you don't open or close any additional doors.
  • joshuah1joshuah1 Posts: 22
    According to Edmunds, Ford factory rebates of $1500 on the Expedition end on Jul. 2nd. THis rebate has been in place for three months. Any chance it will be extended.
  • settleitsettleit Posts: 9
    See my post on town hall-finance,warranty & Insurance- Ford engine failure 2000 Exp. 17,200 miles - "Firestone tires could blow-out but this could have blown up!" Ford mechanic - -
  • I also find that the lights staying on very annoying. I love to travel in my 97 XLT and sometimes when we go camping I leave the doors open while unpacking. Iam always afraid that I will drain the battery. This would not be good when iam up in the mountains. I found that the third seat overhead light can be turned of by the switch. I bought a big car because I needed it for traveling but why didnt ford think about the lights? I think that the 15 minutes that the doors have to stay open before the light go out as alwaysford described is not a good thing to do because that is still draining the battery. Does anybody know any other possibilities? If so can you please post them.
  • I just bought a 29ft Travel Trailer. Unloaded weight is approximately 5300lbs. Shopping for a vehicle to tow it. Like and can afford a 1998 or 1999 Ford Expedtion - not sure if it can handle the load. The specs on Edmunds say 6100lbs. Am I cutting it too close? Should I be looking at the Chevy Suburban? I am not interested in a pickup truck. I will be traveling mostly shorter distances but there will be the occasional long trip. Any Advice??
  • klkrauseklkrause Posts: 96
    First of all, U.S. automakers generally underestimate the towing capacitities of their vehicles because we have so many lawyers in this country - liability.

    Secondly, if you get and Expedition with a 5.4L the towing capacity is 7,300 lbs. so you should have pleny of capability. (This 7,300 lbs is for a 2001 Expedition ... I don't think it was any different a few years ago.?)
  • mstanertmstanert Posts: 2
    I am in the process of buying an Expedition and trying to decide whether to buy one with a 5.4L or 4.6L engine. One dealer I spoke with told me that with the new Trinitron engines the difference in gas mileage will be minimal and would not be noticeable. My question is what kind of gas mileage can I expect, with the 5.4L or 4.6L, in the city and on the highway?
  • sanandtonsanandton Posts: 342
    I don't know about the rest of you, but I have gotten about 10 years to no gallons out of my trinitron. What a great picture!
    (Sorry couldn't resist)

    Now for some helpful information. We have the 5.4 L Triton V-8 4wd Eddie bauer and get 14mpg around town and have been getting around 16.5 - 17mpg on long trips depending on the incline. We now have 17,000 on our 2000 Expy. Definitely worth the upgrade to power and quiet ride. Almost idles up small inclines so overall less downshifting and more quiet.
  • sbrotzsbrotz Posts: 1
    I have a 99 EB Expedition with 24K miles. I have recently experienced problems starting the vehicle. When I turn the key in the ignition I get nothing. No cranking of the engine and no clicking sounds. The lights and accessories work. The radio does not. If I wait a while (10 min to 1 hour) the engine will start like there is nothing wrong. Has anyone experienced this kind of problem? Ford service is looking over the vehicle now. Hope they can identify the cause.
  • rickc5rickc5 Posts: 378
    your problem could be a bad ignition switch, or a bad starter. Please let us know what the dealer finds, and what they do to fix your truck. Thanks!
  • cabolucascabolucas Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Exp EB. The stereo is flaking out, but the display is still working. I assume the stereo itself must be replaced. Does anyone know where I can locate a used stock stereo? There must be a website that can scan junk yard inventories. Any help will be appreciated.
  • mstanertmstanert Posts: 2
    brock55 Jun 19, 2001 7:27pm
    Depending on the State that you live in? I live in Texas and was just quoted $30,200 (plus tt&l) for an Eddie Bauer that was loaded.
  • settleitsettleit Posts: 9
    "Freestone tires could blow-out but this could have blown up" Ford mechanic-2000 Expedition bought new-currently has approx. 17,200 miles - 6.5 months old. While driving home the other evening (Fri) steering wheel starts to shimmied and "Check Engine" light comes on then goes off. Got it home and has a rough idle and smoke coming from exhaust - did not put it in garage! Next morning called Ford dealer "drive it on in to the shop". While driving through town smoke is billowing out of exhaust- all gauges OK, bad gas smell when we would stop at stop lights. Finally get to dealer and they check it out---#5 fuel inject or stuck open and was pumping so much fuel that the catalytic convertor was soaked and gas was dripping out of the exhaust pipe - -Bent piston rod = "new engine" replacement in a new top of the line Ford. Mechanic stated that it could have blown up and that I was driving a bomb - I stated, what would have happened if someone in a passing vehicle dropped a lit cigerett at the stop light or Clean Air Act violations or PEA issues. Replacing the engine does not address what caused the injector to stick open/ What part failed? Wiring harness? Someone in this same discussion group had the same #5 injector "go bad" and engine replaced. Odds of that are ???? Anyone else with this problem? This system is on several Ford vehicles not just the Ex. and could cover several years. We are having to go to the Dispute Settlement Board for a new vehicle not a "rebuilt" one. Dealer offered us lowest possible price for a trade!! I stated 2000 Ex with "0" miles-new Ford engine. I contacted the National Highway Safety Adman. to file a complaint with their office. Any help from the town hall group would help read the post in Finance ,warranty & insurance title Brand new Ford engine for $100 post #1-#5 injector failure-same cylinder as mine !! Injecters are not cylinder specific -just screw one in -I think the issue is the controlling wiring to the number 5 cylinder. This same (sub contractor made or Ford made?) wiring is installed in a zillion Ford/Mercury products and maybe in other makes i.e. GMC,Dodge? Ford Catastrophe engine failure and safety issue-anyone else with the same problem?
  • ken131ken131 Posts: 20
    Just bought the new 2001 EB 4X4 rid of my 2001 montero ltd...(much bad press from CR and safety concerns!) the expy rides MUCH better than the montero...

    I have a question: What happens if I accidentally shift from 4H to 4L while the vehicle is moving? will this ruin the transmission? or will it just not shift, since the car is supposed to be stopped when shifting into 4L?...Anyone know the answer to this? thanks for your help!
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    You won't be able to do that since 4WD Low can only be engaged when you're completely stopped and the transmission is shifted into Neutral. On dry roads and wet, your 4WD selector should be in the auto position.

    Hope this helps!

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • ken131ken131 Posts: 20
    Drew, thanks for the information. Just to clarify: I should be in the AWD or 4H position for normal driving? And if accidentally shifted into 4L it will NOT hurt the vehicle, right?

    thanks again!
  • rickc5rickc5 Posts: 378
    Unless you are in real slippery conditions, like mud or ice, leave the switch in AWD. Switch into 4H when things are real slick, as you then will have the front axle engaged all the time, not just when the rear axle starts slipping.

    Getting into 4L is a TWO step process. First, you MUST shift the transmission into neutral. THEN, you turn the switch to 4L and you will be in low range. Should you "accidently" turn the switch to 4L with the tranny in "D", NOTHING happens until the transmission is shifted into neutral. If you leave the switch in 4L, and then parked your truck, when you start it again, you will be in 4L, because you went through neutral on the way to "P".

    You'll know it if you are in low range. It will accellerate like a jackrabbit, but you won't get up to any speed. Also, the transfer case will whine. At least mine does.

    This is almost an idiot-proof system, but be sure to read the owner's manual and do some experimenting on your own.
  • ken131ken131 Posts: 20
    Thanks Rick. What if I want to shift OUT of 4L? I assume that it is the same process? Car MUST be stopped, in neutral, etc and that I cannot shift OUT of 4L when the car is moving?
  • rickc5rickc5 Posts: 378
    I would probably NOT try it while moving, and surely not while going uphill, where all driveline components are under stress.

    Let's not forget what is going on here. When switching in or out of 4L, you are actually shifting the transfer case, just as if you had a shift lever attached to it. The reason I wouldn't attempt it while moving is simply because I wouldn't want to damage the transfer case by shifting it when "pieces" (gears) are still moving inside it. If you tried it, and blew up the transfer case, Ford would likely have a very dim view of replacing it under warranty. IMHO, its best to follow the guidelines in the owner's manual in this case.

    I have four-wheeled quite a bit, in many vehicles, and virtually all of them require you to be stopped when shifting in or out of 4L. This is something you are only going to do when off-roading on REALLY narly sections of trail, where you MUST proceed at a snail's pace, with lots of torque available. You WON'T ever use 4L on the street, unless you're trying to extricate yourself from a snow drift (where you WILL be stopped), or some such occasion where tons of torque is needed (stump pulling?).
  • ken131ken131 Posts: 20
    I love my new 2001 EB Ltd.....However, at times it seems that it has a somewhat "bouncy" ride (up and down a bit), (i.e., suspension not tight?) It's a smooth bounce, but I was just curious if anyone has noticed this? Is there a way to tighten up the shocks? Thanks for any info!
  • ken131ken131 Posts: 20
    Follow up questions:
    On my 2001 EB Expy:

    1. HOW do i program the homelink with my Overhead Garage door opener? the instructions online don't come close to working! anyone had any experience with homelink and that particular brand of opener?

    2. My rear sensor signal went off today, and continued to sound a constant tone every time i backed up, even though there was nothing near me or behind me. It did this about five times this afternoon, and now everything is fine (i.e., it no longer goes off when it shouldn't). Has anyone had experience of false signal from the reverse sensor?

    Any input is appreciated, thanks!
  • rickc5rickc5 Posts: 378
    Don't forget you bought a TRUCK, not a car-based SUV. Ford uses softer shocks to provide a smoother highway ride. There's nothing you can do to the stock shocks, but if the "bouncy" ride bothers you, you can always change to aftermarket shocks. Bilstein makes shocks that are stiffer than stock, so does Rancho.

    I had to call Homelink to get specific instructions for my Sears opener.

    The backup sensor "sees" objects off to the side, as well as down low. Mine detects curbs and beeps like crazy, even though curbs are low, and won't be hit by the rear of the truck.
  • klkrauseklkrause Posts: 96
    There might be something (mud, dirt, etc.) stuck over the sensor on your rear bumper.
  • alwaysfordsalwaysfords Posts: 210
    Rancho shocks are not known for on road performance. They are difinately stiff though. Stiffness is not the only thing you want. You want firm ride, but you still want compliance in the bumps. This combination will maintain the smoothness you paid so much for. You should look towards some of the shocks that have been specifically tuned for SUV's that are more road going than off road going. Edlebrock IAS are great, Monroe came out with an SUV specific set up about 8 months ago, and Bilstien more than likely has something as mentioned above.
  • jjmd1jjmd1 Posts: 14
    Last weekend.I was parked facing downhill. My left front/back tires were in wet grass, my right ones were on concrete. Started in 2H, could not get out. Switched to 4L and could not get out. Finally, after spinning, truck backed up. Looked at my path, the front wheels were not moving. In fact, the only tire that was moving was the back driver's side. I had the axle actuator (spelling??) fixed several months ago. Is this a problem with the transmission?

    Also, my right turn signal does not always engage. Sometimes, it will blink very quickly. Also, passenger side window does notroll down. Anycomments greatly appreciated.

    I love the vehicle, but it seems as though it is one problem after another.
  • alwaysfordsalwaysfords Posts: 210
    If you didn't stop in neutral to go to 4l, it wasn't in 4wd. Assuming you were not in 4wd, and you don't have limited slip, then you get the result you got - one wheel spins without transferring power to the one that is not spinning.
  • cmimcmim Posts: 9
    I have two questions on the "rear seat ventilation ducts" that are standard on the XLT.

    1. Are they located in the floor or in the ceiling ?
    2. Can you get A/C and heat out of these ?
  • klkrauseklkrause Posts: 96
    I have an XLT with the rear ducts and there are ducts in both the ceiling and floor ... you can control where the air blows. I believe the air flowing to the back is the same air which is being supplied to the front though you can control the temperature and velocity separately with the extra set of controls. If you are providing air conditioned air to the front, though, the rear air will be conditioned, as well.
  • cmimcmim Posts: 9
    So if you order the "Convenience Group" which includes the auxiliary rear heater/air conditioner, all that you are getting are seperate temperature/velocity
    controls for the rear but if you just have the standard rear vents the temp./velocity for the rear vents is what ever the front A/C or heat are set at. Right ??
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