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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • I didn't buy the Yukon XL for gas milage, so I don't really care. But...we have 15,000 miles on out 5.3L 3.73 2001 Yukon XL. We get 11 mpg in town on every tank. We get between 14-15 mpg on trips driving 80-85 mph. Seems like we got a gas milage lemon. At least it doesn't use any oil...joe
  • The drivetrain losses of the 8.1L (4L80E transmission & heavy rear end) are relatively high (40-45%). The 4L80E and larger rear end is built for strength and tow capacity.

    By contrast, the Denali 6.0L (or Burb 5.3L)drivetrain losses are only about 25%.

    These are from dyno measurements made by Whipple.
  • I thought that I read that GM may introduce a 6 door version and 4 wheel steering. Will it be available in 2002?
  • I remember reading one of these threads several months ago about this same problem with the front carpet getting wet. There is a TSB on this. I cannot find the copy I printed, but it involves a rubber seal at the threshhold of the REAR door, which lets water in and makes the front carpet wet. Have your dealer check this out. It sounds as if they want it to be your grommet, so it is not their problem. Good luck.
  • What year is your Yukon XL? Early on in the life cycle (2000), there was reported water intrusion through the rear wheel housing at a sheet metal seam that was poorly sealed. You can tell by checking if the rear passenger carpet is wet. If it is, then that may be your case. I remember someone who did not notice the leak until it reached all the way up front by the driver. You may have to pull the plastic sill / step plate by the doors to check under the carpet, to see if the padding is soaked. The plates are held on by clips - just stick your fingers underneath and pull up firmly. If this isn't your source, try checking the heater box. I remember reading that someone had a problem with collecting water in the heater box, from a clogged a/c line (not your condition, but worth checking anyway - could be through the fresh air damper door).
  • How have you used your SUV? I have an 01' Suburban that is used mainly as a family transporter (2 kids in car seats and one the size of an adult + my wife and I), but have also used it for light towing (pop-up camper approx. 2500-3000lbs loaded).

    How many people do you usually carry around? 5, 2 in car seats.

    How much luggage space do you have? I'll let you look up the specs, But We had no problem packing for a 1 week camping trip for 5 including enough firewood for the entire trip (3rd seat removed)

    How much room is there in the 3rd row of seats? This was our deciding factor for the Burb over other choices. We compared to the Durango and Tahoe and found the Burb to be far superior to the room in the Tahoe (leg room) and superior to the Durango in sapce and comfort.

    How much trouble is it to get into the 3rd row of seats? End middle seat slides forward making it very easy to enter. Center row buckets (optional) make 3rd seat entry even easier.

    How does the vehicle perform in bad weather conditions? (rain, snow, ice, etc.) We just got the vehicle in late January so have not experienced much snow, but have had no issues in the rain.

    What do you NOT like about your SUV? I wish they could have made the 3rd row seat fold completly flat into the floor. Although removing it is easy, it then has to be stored in the garage with the potential for getting dirty or torn up. I prefer the dash layout/cupholder design of the pre 2000 sub better, but have no problem with the way it is.

    I would also like to know approx. how much you paid for yours and what model it is along with the options you purchased. That way, I can better compare apples to apples. I bought under a GM employee price, so it would not be relevant unless you are elgible for this discount. There also were not any incentives at the time I bought, so I have seen postings of people that have done better even without the employee discount than I did.

    Not to bash another vehicle, but we found the ride better than the Durango that we had compared to. The Durango had a more harsh, truck like, ride than the Burb in our opinion. The Tahoe was ruled out because of the 3rd seat room alone. These were the only SUVs we considered enough to have test driven for comparisons.
  • Here is the TSB on the water leak at the front door.

    Front Floor Carpet Wet/Musty Odor (Replace Rear Door Water Deflector) #01-08-64-001A

    Front Floor Carpet Wet/Musty Odor (Replace Rear Door Water Deflector)

    2000-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Utility Models (Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon Denali)

    This bulletin is being revised to remove the Suburban model. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-08-64-001 (Section 08 -- Body and Accessories).


    Some customers may comment that the front floor carpet is wet or has a musty odor.


    The rear door water deflector may not be seated along the bottom, allowing water to enter the vehicle and travel to the front carpet or carpet padding.


    Replace the rear door water deflector. Use the following procedure and the part numbers listed below.

    1.Remove the door trim retaining screws.
    2.Pull upward to remove the door trim pad.
    3.Disconnect the power window switch connector and the courtesy light connector.
    4.Remove the water deflector.
    5.The adhesive surface must be clean, dry and free of dirt or contaminants. Clean the door surface (around the perimeter of the water deflector) with one of the cleaners listed below, or equivalent.
    3M® General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984
    Dominion Sure Seal, Sure Solve Stock BSS
    Kent Acrosol
    6.Position the outer perimeter of the deflector to the door inner panel by working from the bottom center outward. Make sure the butyl adhesive is below the drain holes.
    7.Using a 51 mm (2 in) wallpaper roller, roll out the butyl adhesive. Start at the bottom center and work outward, up the right and left sides. A 51 mm (2 in) wallpaper roller can be purchased at a
    hardware or wallpaper store.

    Parts Information

    Part Number
    Deflector Asm-RR S/D Water, LH
    Deflector Asm-RR S/D Water, RH

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information

    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation
    Labor Time
    Deflector Rear Door Water - Replace (LH)
    0.4 hr
    Deflector Rear Door Water - Replace (RH)
    0.4 hr
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    thanks for the suggestion on shock replacements. I've heard Bilsteins are great - sounds like a good idea.

  • Thanks guys for the responses.I had all the wires put through the grommet by a car alarm place today. Costs me $140 (which is still a hell of alot cheaper than putting all my strobes and lights in by by emergency light place) Anyway it is pouring here in NJ and guess what? it's still leaking, I guess I'll have to tell them to check the TSB on this.I appreciate your help in this matter.
  • Picked up my 01 YXL last week in the Columbus, Ohio area and this is what I paid. For a MSRP of $43,303.00 the purchase price ( before taxes and other charges) came to 38,110.00.
    It was nice to have a fixed price going into this.
  • We've been searching and searching for the perfect SUV, not only in options, but price as well and have been monitoring the postings for awhile.

    Finally our searching came to an end this weekend. My work of calling dealer after dealer bidding them against each other finally paid off.

    We purchased a new 2001 4WD Suburban LT w/Autoride and towing package, plus the color I wanted for $34,400.

    The original MSRP was $43,056, I think we got quite a deal.

    It was definitely worth the work and now I'm a little bummed out because the excitement of the search is over, but I'm very happy with our new purchase.
  • I bought a 2001 Suburban in May, and was very happy with it. However, it now pulls to the right (there are other problems, but I would like to solve this one first). I brought it to one dealer who "could not duplicate the problem". I brought it to another who aligned the front wheels... It worked for about 2K miles, but its happening again. My front Goodyear tires are feathering. The vehicle has 6,600 miles and is not driven poorly to cause improper alignment.

    Is anyone else having this problem?
  • I also had the problem. At 20K miles. No reason for it but the dealer said it's common on the 4wd. Ruined the front tires. Dealer said if I had the alignment done before 7500 miles they would have paid for it and taken care of the tires. Thanks alot. Also heard of some trucks 4wd problem with some components engaging even though the indicator says 2wd.

    I've had 4 fullsize GM SUVs since 1995 and all but the 2001 YukonXL pulled to the right. Every time I took them to the dealer they would say "Alighment within specs". I paid to have the alignment done by an outside shop on the first two. With the third, I took the printout from the alighment shop to show the alignment was indeed out of spec, and the dealer paid the alignment cost. The GM trucks have one of the alignment parameters as not adjustable from the factory. To have the aligment fixed, a plate has to be drilled out, and an adjustment kit has to be installed. GM has these kits, the dealers just don't want to install them. Once dealer told me that fit and finish warrentee items and alignments are not reimbursed by GM and the dealer has to eat the cost. That's why the push back so hard on doing the work. I've concluded that the factory aligment jig where they weld the plate is off as nearly every GM truck owner I've talked to says they pull to the right. I got lucky with my latest truck, but a good alignment shop can easily fix it, and so should the dealer...joe
  • Have not visited the board in quite a while...our 2000 Burb is running flawlessly. Saw a couple of posts mentioning a swap out of the dome lites for reading lites....was this for the new style Burbs?? Tried to search back but to no avail...this has been one of the few pet peeves I have had with the new style reading lites in the third row....
  • GM just announced 0.0%/36 months on every GM product. On trucks there is 0.9%/48 months and 2.9%/60 months on all 2001 models and 2.9%/48 months and 4.9%/60 months on all 2002 trucks. Effective dates 9/20 - 10/31. "Keep America Rolling" is the campaign.....
  • You are right,I did it last year on my 2001 XL
    You have to order the second row seats dome/reading light and replace the third seat dome light with it.
    The wiring is already there from the factory,the dome only use only 2 of the 3 prongs on the connector and the dome/reading light use all 3.
    You will have to slightly open the hole in the headliner since the dome/reading light is a little bigger the the dome only light.
  • smwls8smwls8 Posts: 103
    As my wife will deliver our third child(SURPRISE!) in May 2002, I am beginning to look for a big SUV(one that has ample storage room behind the 3rd row seat). My only options are the suburban and the excursion. No one here has to convince me that the burb is better suited for my needs than an Ex, but I have read more than a few posts on Edmunds concerning "allowable" oil consumption(1 quart per 1,000 miles) with the 5.3 engine.

    Has this oil use been mainly with early 5.3's? What about 6.0's in the 2500's? I will not tow anything but I do want 4 wheel drive. My wife qualify's for the GMO employee plan through a family member, and with the baby coming next May I might get by until the 2003's are out. Any major changes for 2003?

    Thanks for any help/info.
  • I'm sure there is wide variability in what owners are experiencing. I have a 2001 5.3 with 17K miles and no oil use to-date. Began using synthetic at 6K.
  • As if you needed something to make you love Suburbans even more... GMAC just annouced this:

    (clipped from email rec'd from local dealer)
    GMAC has started a new campaign TODAY called "Keep America Rolling." They have put special finance rates on ALL new vehicles, including the Corvette!

    36mos. 48mos. 60mos.
    ALL 2001 cars 0.0% 0.0% 0.0%
    ALL 2001 trucks 0.0% 0.9% 2.9%
    ALL 2002 cars 0.0% 0.9% 2.9%
    ALL 2002 trucks 0.0% 2.9% 4.9%
  • I have a 2001 1500 2wd Suburban with 5.3 engine. I change oil every 3,000 miles. I have not had to add any oil between changes, in fact the level is still very near full when it is time for a change. Al
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    1500 Silverado Z71 with a 5.3

    20K on it this weekend will be its 6th oil change hasnt used a drop to date

    Switched to mobil 1 at 9K

    Great engine
  • When I got my 01 1500 2WD XL last Oct it came with Firestone tires. I had a Bridgestone dealer replace them with Dueler H/L's and so far I have 14k on them without any problems. At that time there was alot of talk about tires being switched out and I really wanted the Michelin Cross Terain's but they did not come in 265 size then. Would like to hear any feedback from those that switched and what the results are.

  • With the new 0% financing rate, are there any dealers in Calif who sell at dealer's invoice? Thanks.
  • Reese is recalling some " towpower " Interchangeable Hitch Balls.

    The defective units were sold from February 2000 thru March 2001.
    They are identified on the package as 57000, 57001, and 57002.

    ...................DANGER ......................
    The hitch ball may disconnect from its mounting post. This may cause the trailer to disconnect from the towing vehicle.
    For free replacement call toll free 1-866-737-3373.

    E-Mail: [email protected]

    Irv. ( Filling in for Don. )
  • On my new '01 YXL, I found a local tire dealer who would give me full retail credit to trade in factory Firestone Wilderness tires against a set of new Bridgestone Dueller H/L tires.

    After 3000 miles, Bridgestones seem to be doing well. We'll see how they do in during the Missouri winter

    I've used Michelin LTX M/S tires exclusively for the past five years on previous suburbans and was very satisified. Unfortunately, no Michelin dealer was interested in Firestone trade-ins.

  • smwls8: Since you qualify for GMO pricing and are interested in the 6.0L, you might want to consider the Denali XL. I have 8500 miles on a 2001 and its a great vehicle. Lots of extras like steering wheel radio controls, focussed beam headlights, heated rear seats, trip computer, AWD with center and rear limited slip diffs, 6.0L engine, body colored running boards, 6 cd changer, 17 inch polished alloy wheels, Michelin X-Terrains that aren't available in either the 1500 or 2500 Subs. Its worth a test drive.

    larryk5: The Michelins on the DXL (265s) provide excellent traction (I had them in heavy snow this past Feb) and are quiet on dry pavement. I used to run my previous with BF Goodrich T/As which look more agressive but they are more noisy and I don't think provided any greater traction in wet or snowy conditions.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    I can atest to the bfg's being more noisy.

    I have 285's on my silverado. Traction (wet and snow) increase DRASTICALLY over the stock fstones. Only thing that changed negatively (which doesnt bother me i just turn the radio up louder) was the tire noise

    11K on them and no wear problems
  • I don't want to burst your bubble, and am happy to see you're out of the Tombstones, but the Brigestones are made by the same company, Bridgestone/Firestone. I am also willing to bet that you went to a Firestone dealer for the swap. I know with all the bad publicity that the Wilderness tire has with Ford, but I can assure you that Ford had that tire built to their specs, with cost being a major factor, and that is the real cause of all the hubbub.

    I am not saying that the new tires are as bad as the original ones. Peace of mind if worth paying for at least in my book. I have 14,000 mile on my Firestone Steeltex on my 3/4 ton YXL with no problems at all.

    I do know that a different rubber compound is used on the factory tires than on the aftermarket equivalents. My wife has a S-10 and we replaced her Tigerpaws with new ones and they have outlasted the originals by 15,000 miles already. My friend has a 3/4 ton Sierra P/U with 32,000 on the ticker and his Firestone Steel Tex need replacing bad. The replacement tire, same make and model have a 50,00 mile life expectancy, no mileage warranty on E range tires. On his previous truck, also 3/4 ton he had Michilen LTX M/S's and they were sold with the truck after 75,000 miles on them with at least another 15K to go.

    Generally you get what you pay for, and the auto makers only want to get the cars off the line and to the customer as cheaply as they can. Now that GM includes tires in the bumper to bumper warranty maybe they will have the tires built to last at least 36K.
  • gpvsgpvs Posts: 214
    Can you share where you got this vehicle from? What incentives were given for this big discount?

    We're looking at getting one and want to know whether there are similar incentives out there right now.

  • Echo the comments on OEM tires.

    Based on my limited research on B-Stone Dueller H/L tires, it appears they really are a premium tire (with price to match -- cost me $48 per tire to upgrade from GM issue Firestone Wilderness tires)

    A few years back, I had a set of Duellers (can't remember which type) that came on a used Jimmy. They were weak tires needing replacement after 30k mi.

    Hopefully the H/Ls on my new '01 YXL will be up to their billing.

  • bim1bim1 Posts: 5
    Has anyone done this task for Y2K Suburban LT? Manual does not help. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    if it is anything like the silverado i have a link for you

    is your filter located under the glove box? I am guessing so

    Check out

    In one of categories (maintenace maybe?) there are pics and instructions doesnt get any better than this


  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Well Bridgestone bought over Firestone, so technically they would be the same company. However, Bridgestone is (still) based in Japan.

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • smwls8smwls8 Posts: 103
    The Mother-in-law is driving a standard length Denali and loves it. She hit a large whitetail yesterday in metro Atlanta and did considerable damage. Says she sure is glad she was in the GMC instead of her last ride, a Mazda Millenia.

    With children 8, 2, and one due in May '02, a Denali is too nice a truck. After 5 or 6 years with 3 kids and one dog, happy meals, etc, I will be ready to trade. I want cloth seats, entertainment package and 4 wheel drive. I may have to order one to get it the way I want it, but I have plenty of time.

    Please don't tell me I have to get leather in order to get the entertainment package. On GM's website, I could not find the TV/VCP option, I hope this is not a dealer add-on.

    Since I will not be towing anything I have no interest in the 6.0. I am sure it is a fine powerplant but for running around town and the occasional road trip the 5.3 will do fine.

    Has anyone here special ordered a Burb/XL using the GMO discount purchase? I have heard it is better to use this discount by purchasing off the lot.

    Thanks for the info

  • In March, I ordered a '01 Sub LT 2500HD using GM supplier (GMO+4%). I had the GM Auto Show discount of $500.00 plus previous owner discount of $1000. I did not pay shipping (delivery) or any extras. GMO+4% plus GA sales tax plus $23.00 for tag and title.
  • Hello, Suburban lovers!

    I have really become pretty highly informed by reading the archived discussions on this site over the last several days. I am presently in the market for an 8.1 Suburban and have come across several in the past few wks that are pretty deeply discounted, what with the year-end close-outs. However, several posts about the engine clatter and the potential need for a "fix" have given me pause -- I am wondering whether to buy now and take advantage of the reduced prices or wheher I would be better served to wait. I have called GM customer service to inquire about the noise issue and the forthcoming "fix" of the pistons that I have seen mentioned in several posts here, but they deny any knowledge of it and say that there is no active "campaign" on the 8100 engine. Clearly there is some substance to it -- I am curious as to what dept (or even what dealer) the previous posters had spoken to about this.

    I am also wondering if the late 2001 models were manufactured after the "fix." Also, I am wondering if this is truly a pervasive problem that has affected all of the 8100's or if there are some owners of the 8100 that have NOT experienced this problem. Certainly a number of 8100 owners have alluded to it in postings here, but maybe it is a selff-selected grouping. As I am new to this forum, I have gained a certain respect for those who are regular contributors -- you have shown yourselves to be very well informed. I appreciate any input.

  • I actually got in touch with a helpful dealer today, who consulted the computerized postings on his database regarding the 8.1 engine. He said that there was no official listing of the "noise" problem. He elaborated by saying that there was a reported problem of excess oil consumption in selected 8.1 engines, and that a remedy for this was to be introduced which involved something about the placement [or replacement] of an O-ring -- but he also stated that there were apparently only isolated reports of even this.

    Anyway, clarification by anyone in the know would be most welcome.

    One last item, I've seen even on this forum contradictions about whether the Allison suspension will be offered in the future. Any updates?

  • Jeff:

    I have a 2001 8.1L, 2500, 4x4 LT with 4.10 rear and 9000 miles made in January 01. I also have the cold start noise and have had it from day one. GM is aware of this widespread problem which cuts across their entire Vortec line. GM's official position is that the noise is characteristic of the engine and is in no way detrimental to the performance or reliability of the vehicle. The Chevrolet customer assistance representative I spoke with about three months ago attributed the noise to piston skirt slap. He had no idea if a fix was forthcoming from GM for existing vehicles. Apparently, the dealers have one or two TSB's about the noise which state that it is harmless (I haven't actually seen them).

    In my case the noise is a light rattling or tapping that almost resembles the mixing ball rolling around in the bottom of a spray paint can. Some describe it as a diesel type noise, and I cannot disagree. It lasts for about 30-40 seconds and then disappears completely. It has not changed in any way in 9000 miles.

    At first I was quite troubled by the noise, especially since it gets a lot of press on these boards. Earlier, some folks were about to have nervous breakdowns over this noise. I have come to accept the noise as a minor nuisance and nothing more. Here is my rationale:

    This noise appears in Model year 2000 and 2001 engines across the entire Vortec line (possibly even some 99's). It is widespread and I believe it affects most, if not all vehicles to some extent. For all the people that have posted about this noise, I have yet to see a single post that has even suggested that the noise led to a performance or reliability problem or component failure. By now, some of these noisy engines have accrued tens of thousands of miles. If the noise was a reliability problem, statistically some related mechanical problems would have started to show up by now.

    Yes, I agree that noise is energy released by contacting parts and this leads to wear. Every engine wears a little on each degree of crank rotation. If it didn't, you would not hear your engine running. My point is that the noise/energy/wear argument is a relative issue. At least in my case, the noise is a light tapping or clatter and not suggestive of a high energy impact. I tend to agree with Chevy that the noise is harmless. If I feel differently about it when my warranty is about to expire, I'll buy the extended warranty.

    Other than the noise, my vehicle is excellent and I am delighted with it. I tow a heavy travel trailer and cannot imagine a better towing vehicle. I paid about $3K under sticker in January, after waiting 14 weeks. If you can get the kind of deal that people are posting about on the 01's, don't let a light noise you will hear for thirty seconds a day stop you. Hope this helps.

  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Our 95 Chevy Suburban has a coolant leak easily seen at the top of the engine - a connection joint coming from a hose into the engine (block?. When warm and under pressure you can see the coolant escaping from the juncture. I am not terribly mechanically minded and do not know what specific connection it is but it sure does leak! We have an appointment for next Wed to bring the Burb in for repair but does anyone have a guess as to what connection this might be and what the appropriate repair will entail?

    I'll try to provide more details as needed if anyone wants to offer a guess. For now - I refill the radiator every morning (takes about a gallon of water) and keep the driving to the shortest local hops.


  • bim1bim1 Posts: 5
    I was able to replace the filters last night with the help from your picture. Boy the screw by the center console was such a pain to put back. Without your picture, I probably would not have guessed that there is a screw at that location. After 17,000 miles, the filters were dirty!!! Thanks again.

  • fst1fst1 L.A. Posts: 18
    Just wanted to let you guys know that I have just posted a picture of what looks to be the 2003 Tahoe in my Future Telling section of As with all spy pictures, this is only speculation, but the highly finished look and its resemblance to the already released Avalanche's front end make me think that this is headed for production.

    To find Future Telling, go to the "Reviews" section, scroll down and look to the bottom right. Click "Go" and it will take you to the intro page that contains the Tahoe as well as other spy pictures.

    Best regards,

    Ed Hellwig
    Road Test Editor-
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    your welcome

    I actually broke that screw in my truck still havent fixed it yet (that was 5K miles ago)

    Glad it worked for ya

  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    Here is the direct link to the Future Telling page:

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • I am checking prices on a replacement roof mounted brake light for my '97 Chevy Sub. Dealer says that there are no "bulb(s)" to replace, must buy a whole new unit for $150. Sure would appreciate any suggestions or ideas on a lower price/remedy.
  • The 3rd brake light is a LED unit with no replaceable bulbs in it. I would first check for a ddefective switch to the light. Pull the light off and disconnect it and have some one hit the brakes while you test it with a test light or volt meter. If it is in fact burned out then a replacement will be nessessary. It may be a long shot but try some collision shops, they have access to aftermarket replacement parts like that, and will definitly be cheaper than the dealer.
  • robz3robz3 Posts: 28
    1) Looking at getting captains chairs. Any bad comments? Will be using the car to make several long trips (6 hour each way) a year and will have baby in second row and removing third row seats to carry two dogs.

    2) Want to get a bakup sensor to avoid hitting cars while parking. Any recommendations for brand?

    3) Any good stereo upgrades? I understand that Onstar is part of the stereo system but I would really like to add better speakers/amplification.

    4) Extended warranty. Worth it? Does it have to be bought at time of purchase?

    5) Any regrets in buying one of these?

    Though I'm not fond of driving such a massive beast I do need something big for the family for the trips and a wanted something more comfortable than a minivan. I went with the XL because the seats were better than the Suburban and the one in the Suburban made my left foot fall asleep after 10 minutes. Bummer!

  • The Bridgestone Duelers are indeed a premium tire. They have Uni-T and when the surface tread wears off, it uncovers a softer rubber. They are quiet, but they don't last that long, although they stay good right up to the end of the tread unlike, in my experience, the Michelin LTX.
  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    For more information about reverse warning systems, please have a look at the existing Reverse warning systems discussion topic in the Aftermarket & Accessories message board.

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    To answer a few questions with my opinion, keep in mind that different people have different tastes and needs to fill.

    I have a built to order 2001 3/4 Yukon XL 6.0L, in Indigo Blue with light gray leather interior. I ordered everything except the second row buckets, 4:10 rear end, and 8.1L engine.

    Second row buckets are cool for those with kids or dogs, it keeps them from climbing over the seat to get into the 3rd row or into the back of the truck. I like the bench, for 2 reasons, it is really only comfortable for 2 people, so the center folding armrest/cup holder works out great, and secondly when you fold the seats flat to haul cargo the buckets leave an empty spot between the seats, and if you are getting something like 2 X 4's it will make it hard to stack them in there with out messing up the sides of the buckets.

    Speakers can be upgraded easily w/o disturbing the On-Star, just have the shop use the adapters to go from the factory plug to the new speaker connectors, I hate chopping up a harness to save $6 in parts, and if you want to re-install the factory speakers to sell later it will be much easier. I have also heard tales of success disconnecting the factory amp and adding an aftermarket unit, all while maintaining full On-Star use.

    I bought the extended warranty from the dealer when I got the truck, it should be the same price later, but if you get it when you buy they can roll it into the loan. I got an all inclusive bumper to bumper extended warranty, 5 years/100K miles, it is the same as the 3 year 36K mile one the truck comes with as far as coverage and deductible, but it is not through GM, you will have to ask the dealer about it. My theory on it was I am going to be damned if I have to make a truck payment and have to pay for a repair on the truck at the same time. You really have to look at the fine print on them though, some don't cover electronics, only mechanical items like the engine/trans/rear end, others have a huge deductible $259 - $500. In today's high tech cars you need the electronic parts covered, a computer brain can cost $1500 now a days. Really do your homework in this area, it will pay off in the long run.

    Only regret I have is the huge gas tank I have 38.5 gallons. Don't get me wrong I get 14 MPG city and 17 MPG highway, unloaded, it is just a real shocker to see the numbers keep rolling when you fill up from an empty tank.
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