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again. I'm in the market for a 2500, 6.0, 3.73
rear. Can anyone relate their experiences with this configuration? I plan to tow a travel
trailer,about 6000lbs, from NY to CA, and don't want to fall short on power in the mountains. I gather the gas mileage will be about 14-15 MPG not towing from reading the posts. From reading
the posts thus far I have ruled out a 1500
because the general consensus seems to be it is
under powered for such a load.
Any comments will be greatly appreciated. I value the opinions of the people who write here because
you know more the dealers! thanks in advance
flat terrain. Right now it looks like a one time trip, but who knows. I do go to Florida once a
year & travel to like... Quebec, Adorondacks, Montreal, so I would still need a little power. I don't want to get the 4.10 gears if I don't need them; to save gas and wear and tear on the motor.
My main concern is that I would like to be in overdrive while towing. I've read on this site that it's very tiring towing in third gear on long trips. I can attest to this, since right now I'm towing with an Astro.
Everyone says to get the auto ride. I went into a dealer here on Long Island to test drive one with auto ride, and he told me I had to buy the truck first! I did drive one without auto ride. It rode well, but was very bouncy on the highway at 60-70 mph. Will the auto ride smooth this out? It drove very well at speeds lower than that.
the 2500's with the autoride. The dealers don't
stock many 2500's to begin with, they say their not that popular and harder to get rid of. But I'll go to GM's site and locate one.
How does it smooth out the ride? Does it loosen up the suspension?
Also what do you think about getting the 4.10 rear
and buying a second set of larger tires and rims
for non towing driving, which will be about 90%
of the time. A set of Yokohoma 285/75/16's are 33"
tall and will change the ratio to 3.80. they will probably look much nicer too. If I buy a HyperTech can I reprogram back & forth between the two tire sizes? This way I can get the benifit of better mileage
and have the extra power when I need it for towing by just changing
the tires.
Also I have the old brochures for 2000 & 2001 & the tow ratings have dropped each year for all theSuburban/Yukon models. The 2500 with the 3.73 went from 8100lbs down to 7500lbs, and they increased the H.P. & torque. Whats up with that???
Without question, the best tow vehicle of the three is the DXL. My specific measure is a 3.5 mile grade in Central PA going to Raystown Lake in the summer for vacation. Its a heavy grade of about 15%.
With the same boat at about the same weight the 350ci 3/4 ton Sub climbed the grade with the pedal floored at 30mph and I had to turn the inside heat on near the top of the grade to keep from over heating the engine.
The 7.4L 3/4ton Sub with a 4.10 rear climbed the same grade with the same boat with the pedal floored at about 35-37mph and it too needed the heat turned on near the top to avoid overheating.
The DXL with its 6.0L and 3.73 rear, this past summer towed the same boat on the same grade with the pedal floored at about 45-47mph and the dual AC running the whole way up the grade. With the tranny temp gauge I could watch the tranny temp rise although always within the safe zone. The engine temp only moved up about 10-15 degrees. It was quite a change from the "breath-holding" experiences of previous years while climbing that grade.
I can't speak for how the 8.1L in a new 3/4 ton would have handled the package but I was quite satisifed with my new workhorse's capabilities when compared with my previous tugs. One other nice feature the DXL has thats not available in the 3/4 ton with the 8.1L is the self-leveling rear suspension. A compressor automatically inflates the rear suspension depending on the number of passengers, weight of cargo or tongue weight of your trailer.
As a side note I have also found the payload and tow capacity #s strange for the the 2002 models. I wonder if GM is manipulating the maximum payload capacities (which would reduce the trailer capacities and CGVWR) in order to achieve a lower calculated CoG. A lower CoG measurement would result in a lower calculated rollover rating. Given the press and public attention on rollover ratings, lowering the theoretical CoG by simply dropping the payload capacities might be a "smoke and mirrors" attempt to get a better roll-over rating. Just a thought.
the 6.0 - 3.73 will work fine. I just have to
test drive the Autoride. I hear so much positive
talk about it.
I didn't realize that load ratings could have
that much effect on handling characteristics.
I was thinking maybe GM over rated their trucks
and was now recanting.
I'm glad you mentioned the fact that your
transmission stayed cool, as this is a big
concern. Right now I tow with an Astro van.
The temp got near 300deg. I had to get a huge
transmission cooler that only fit under the
floor, with a fan. I didn't want to go thru that again. thanks for the info
This is how it is described in the manual, in technical terms.
The RTD system is bi-state real time damping, two corner rear leveling (if equipped), and a electronic variable orifice, (EVO) power steering system, (if equipped).
The RTD system consists of the following:
Suspension Control Module
Compressor/Leveling Module
Pressure Sensor
Exhaust Solenoid
Compressor Motor Relay
Steering Handwheel Speed/Position Sensor
Electronic Variable Orifice (EVO) Solenoid
Shock Solenoid Valves
Position Sensors
The objective of the suspension control module is to provide ride and handling results that are superior to a passive damper system, both on and off road at all load conditions. The suspension control module
monitors body-to-wheel height, vehicle speed, handwheel position/speed, lift/dive status and a driver tow/haul input switch status in real time and instantly selects a "normal" or "firm" mode. This is done for
each of the front and rear shock absorbers in order to adjust the vehicle for specific road and driving conditions.
The suspension control module will use the rear body-to-wheel displacements and vehicle speed inputs to keep the rear trim height of the vehicle at its desired level. This is done to optimize suspension
geometry, headlight aiming, ride travel and keep the vehicle visually level. The system utilizes the compressor motor relay and the compressor/leveling module which contains the exhaust solenoid, pressure
sensor and compressor motor. The vehicles's rear leveling compressor motor is switched ON and OFF via a compressor motor relay which is controlled by the suspension control module. The suspension
control module provides a switched path to ground whenever compressor activity is required. The suspension control module supplies 5 volts to the RTD air pressure sensor. The pressure sensor uses this
reference voltage to produce an analog output of approximately 0.15 to 4.85 volts. The signal voltage is a reference of the air pressure in the rear leveling system. The exhaust solenoid valve is switched ON
and OFF via the suspension control module. The suspension control module provides a switched path to ground whenever the exhaust "head relief" sequence occurs at compressor start-up (If system
pressure is lower than 10 psi).
The suspension control module also uses the steering handwheel position/speed sensor and vehicle speed inputs to control a power steering effort control valve. The suspension control module varies the
steering assist by adjusting the current flow through the electronic variable orifice (EVO) solenoid control circuits. The amount of steering assist is dependent upon vehicle speed and input from the steering
handwheel position/speed sensor. As the vehicle speed increases, the steering assist decreases and the driver effort increases. As the vehicle speed decreases, the steering assist increases and the driver effort
decreases.
The shock solenoid valve is driven ON and OFF by the suspension control module. To activate the solenoid, it is initially subjected to full battery voltage for a short period of time. Once the solenoid is
pulled-in, the supply voltage is pulse width modulated (PWM). The amount the shock solenoid valve is activated is based on inputs from the driver Tow/Haul switch, road inputs and the PCM. The
suspension control module provides a common ground (low reference) for all 4 of the shock solenoid valves.
The suspension control module provides a common regulated voltage of approximately 5 volts to all four of the (body-to-wheel) position sensors, RTD air pressure sensor and the steering handwheel
position/speed sensor. The suspension control module receives VSS from the PCM and over the class 2 circuit. The position sensors provide an analog signal voltage between 0.5 and 4.5 volts to the
suspension control module. This signal voltage represents the wheel's position relative to the body. The suspension control module provides a 5 volt reference and a low reference to the position sensors.
bills to me. I'll have to look at an extended
warranty. I thought it might just work off the
suspension, but it has sensors in every part of
the car.
How did you get your manuals? From the dealer?
I drive a 1999 Chevrolet suburban; the 2 wheel drive C-1500. I've got 107K miles on the original shocks. My shocks have started to go bad, within the last 2 weeks. I am looking for someone to sell and install Bilstein shocks for my Burban. I reside in San Jose, California. To save money I see the dealer as the last resort. Any suggestions on where I can purchase Bilstein shocks and have them installed?
Glenny
I work for GM and have access to the online service manual. But you can purchase your own hard copy through Helms. Check them out, here is a link http://www.helminc.com/helm/htm_search_gm.asp?Style=&mscsid=G5MC963TPGQX8MSBN19A8FU5GT7K9357
http://www.offroadwarehouse.com
They are located in california. I paid $49.99 each (00 silverado Z71).
Really good people. I am in indiana and they kept me informed on my order pretty well.
Ryan
Would it be best to get something like the Alpine 1.5 DIN CD set that supposedly fits in the space (although one guy was wondering if it would fit with whatever pop-out slides the Chevy has put to use in the stereo space) or go with something along the lines of a regular height set (Kenwood eXcelon would probably be my choice as I have a changer I could put to good use) and fit it in with an adapter kit.
Would LOVE to hear how other have modified their stereo's. Does the 1.5 DIN fit in the slot easily enough? How does a regular height + adapter look? Am I missing better options?
THANKS for your ideas!
There is a six month long thread on another web site. http://www.delphi.com/n/main.asp?webtag=gmsuv&nav=start
The thread is titled: Audio system upgrades.
Did you add a CD disk changer?
Were there wiring problems?
The head unit is a Pioneer 770H. It has lots of features and sounds quite nice. All of the wires were replaced. We installed 2 amps, 4x50 and 1x250 they were placed where the subwoofer was removed in the back.
I placed a JL Audio Stealth box in the center armrest. Lost most of the storage space there, but enjoy sitting on the woofer. The door speakers were replaced with Boston Acoustic speakers as well (speaker brands are really a personal preference item). The amps are Xtant brand.
I didn't have Onstar hooked into the system. It was an extra $100. Hey, a guy has to draw the line somewhere. Besides I have done just fine for 43 years without Onstar.
I don't like cd changers so I didn't have one installed.
I am quite happy with the system. It won't send ripples throught the pavement, but is plenty loud.
It is important that the ride not become choppy or harsh. Any suggestions?
That was a toughy! ;-)
Maybe you'll have better luck when the weekday posters return! Meanwhile, have a great weekend!
tidester
Host
SUVs
Maybe they let him go, I didn't ask. I just assumed that the show didn't get renewed.
Someone, Ryan I think, lowered his Silverado. Maybe he will check in.
Julie
Autoride is a definite must as the electronics behind the system are rather simple but very effective. The auto rear leveling makes pulling 7-8K pounds very true.
As for power, I shift to 3rd, and put on cruise at 75-80 mph with 7K pounds behind and only the steeper grades give it any kind of problem when in the tow/haul mode.
Julie
ever tow in overdrive?
Heatwave3 - What gear do you tow in?
Also good luck on finding a jack that will go up high enough to get the front up.
Julie i will raise my truck before lowering it
In short I was told if I put 285's on I better get a matching spare or no drivetrain warranty on the rear end, front diff, or transfer case. I don't know if a 285 spare would even fit under the truck in the stock spare location. I know 265 will, a friend has them on his YXL.
http://www.bb4wa.com/articles/hilift_jack.htm
http://www.hi-lift.com/home.htm
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=search.asp%3FType%3Dbykeyword%26Part%3Djack%26Search.x%3D1%26SearchType%3DBoth
I got a very nice reply which i will post in a few.
I did change my spare to a 285 justto be on the safe side
Ryan
-----Original Message-----
From: Mestdagh, Jill
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 10:53 AM
To: Holmquist, Ralph
Subject: FW: Torque Control Feedback E-mail
Please handle...
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 8:42 AM
To: Mestdagh, Jill
Subject: Torque Control Feedback E-mail
name: Ryan
company:
title:
phone: xxx-xxx-xxxx
fax:
from-email: [email protected]
comments: I have a few questions. I have a 2000 Silverado with the
optional
locking differential.
My questions are
1. I have changed my tires from a 265/75/R16 to a 285/75/R16. Will
this in any way affect the locker?
2. Should i get a flat would a 265 spare tire size hurt the locker?
Should the spare be the same size as the tires on the truck?
From: Holmquist, Ralph
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 3:33 PM
To: Mestdagh, Jill
Subject: RE: Torque Control Feedback E-mail
The increase in tire size should not affect the locker. Loads on the entire drive train will be up somewhat, but as long as the vehicle isn't
abused you should not have a problem. Using a different size spare will cause minor
differentiation which adds some wear, however if this situation isn't for an extended period the unit will not be damaged. The unit will not engage in normal driving (cornering and parking lot maneuvers). The unit could lock
if the tires are spun. It would tend to stay locked if the smaller tire spins up first and the vehicle is driven in a straight line. This
would be noticeable to the driver through wheel hop and driveline binding. Although
this is unlikely to occur it is a good idea to avoid wheel spin when different size tires are used on the rear axle. If lock-up occurs,
either back up a short distance or turn the steering wheel back and forth a few
times to unlock the differential. The differential will not be damaged
if it is driven while locked, however tire wear will increase.
HOPE THIS HELPS!!!
Ryan
-- Don
I contacted them about a month and a half ago with no response
-- Don
However i had a question a few months ago about a banging i had from the rear when the road was wet. Never answered oh well
Brian
If so, you may have a problem with the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I had that problem with my Bonneville, it would never set a code and until I left it with the dealer and told them to drive it until they could find out what the problem was. They ended up hooking up a real time analyzer in order to get the code.
Campo57
Brian
I also have a '98 Explorer that allows the always-on option as long as the headlights are on.
<http://www.truckautoaccessories.com/>