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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    what about the plastic door sill protectors they sell?
  • andyl2andyl2 Member Posts: 84
    I think the 3M clear plastic will prevent the paint from rubbing through (It is great stuff, I uese it on the front end to prevent rock chips). But, this is a Band-Aid in my mind, not a resolution to the real problem. I will do it as a last resort, but am hoping for a better resolution.
  • gncgnc Member Posts: 27
    I have a 2000 Yukon XL with 31,000 miles and am contemplating getting a extended warranty. The local dealer recommends the GMPP product line (not surprisingly). I have surfed the warranty gold site as well. I am very interested in peoples experiences and recommendations with extended warrranties for this vehicle. Thanks!
  • sgj55sgj55 Member Posts: 34
    I have posted before with no response, I'll try it
    again. I'm in the market for a 2500, 6.0, 3.73
    rear. Can anyone relate their experiences with this configuration? I plan to tow a travel
    trailer,about 6000lbs, from NY to CA, and don't want to fall short on power in the mountains. I gather the gas mileage will be about 14-15 MPG not towing from reading the posts. From reading
    the posts thus far I have ruled out a 1500
    because the general consensus seems to be it is
    under powered for such a load.
    Any comments will be greatly appreciated. I value the opinions of the people who write here because
    you know more the dealers! thanks in advance
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    I have 2001 Yukon XL with that configuration. I get 14 city 17 highway, with 6 adult passengers. I have towed my 70 cutlass with it no problem. The car weighs 4000 lbs according to the title, plus the trailer weight. I can "feel" the car but have no problem with power on the roll or at the lights. I live in MI, and we don't have much in the way of mountains, so I am not sure how it would fair on the inclines. Another Edmonds member has a DXL and a 6000 lb boat and says he was impressed with the power traveling through the mountains. He goes by Heatwave3, he stops in on this board from time to time, but you can find him on the Denali topic easier. If you are truly concerned you could get the 4.10:1 rear end, that should be more than capable of getting the job done. Is this a one time trip, or are you planning on going back and forth?
  • sgj55sgj55 Member Posts: 34
    Hey John, thanks for answering. I read your earlier post & gathered you were in a relatively
    flat terrain. Right now it looks like a one time trip, but who knows. I do go to Florida once a
    year & travel to like... Quebec, Adorondacks, Montreal, so I would still need a little power. I don't want to get the 4.10 gears if I don't need them; to save gas and wear and tear on the motor.
    My main concern is that I would like to be in overdrive while towing. I've read on this site that it's very tiring towing in third gear on long trips. I can attest to this, since right now I'm towing with an Astro.

    Everyone says to get the auto ride. I went into a dealer here on Long Island to test drive one with auto ride, and he told me I had to buy the truck first! I did drive one without auto ride. It rode well, but was very bouncy on the highway at 60-70 mph. Will the auto ride smooth this out? It drove very well at speeds lower than that.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    I also have autoride on the truck it really smooths it out over the bumpy roads of MI, the pothole capitol of the world. It makes a HUGE difference. If you have a hard time finding one that has it, do a dealer search on the web for one that has a 8.1 L engine. With the 8.1 L engine you have to get autoride, it's one of those if you like it or not deals. The 8.1 L is only available in 2500 models, as you probably already know, but the chassis are the same or ride and feel are actually extremely close between the 8.1 and 6.0. That is what made my decision to get the autoride on my 6.0 L. No one had one to try out, and the dealers kept telling me it was not really nessasary, well they are wrong, if you want every day driving comfort go for the autoride.
  • sgj55sgj55 Member Posts: 34
    I thought it was just my area that didn't order
    the 2500's with the autoride. The dealers don't
    stock many 2500's to begin with, they say their not that popular and harder to get rid of. But I'll go to GM's site and locate one.
    How does it smooth out the ride? Does it loosen up the suspension?

    Also what do you think about getting the 4.10 rear
    and buying a second set of larger tires and rims
    for non towing driving, which will be about 90%
    of the time. A set of Yokohoma 285/75/16's are 33"
    tall and will change the ratio to 3.80. they will probably look much nicer too. If I buy a HyperTech can I reprogram back & forth between the two tire sizes? This way I can get the benifit of better mileage
    and have the extra power when I need it for towing by just changing
    the tires.

    Also I have the old brochures for 2000 & 2001 & the tow ratings have dropped each year for all theSuburban/Yukon models. The 2500 with the 3.73 went from 8100lbs down to 7500lbs, and they increased the H.P. & torque. Whats up with that???
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Member Posts: 462
    I don't know if this will help anyone but I currently tow a 6000lb boat with a 2001 DXL. The DXL comes with the 6.0L and a 3.73 rear on the 1/2 ton chassis. I have owned 2 previous 3/4 ton Silverado Subs, one with a 350ci carb and the other a 7.4L inj with a 4.10 rear.

    Without question, the best tow vehicle of the three is the DXL. My specific measure is a 3.5 mile grade in Central PA going to Raystown Lake in the summer for vacation. Its a heavy grade of about 15%.

    With the same boat at about the same weight the 350ci 3/4 ton Sub climbed the grade with the pedal floored at 30mph and I had to turn the inside heat on near the top of the grade to keep from over heating the engine.

    The 7.4L 3/4ton Sub with a 4.10 rear climbed the same grade with the same boat with the pedal floored at about 35-37mph and it too needed the heat turned on near the top to avoid overheating.

    The DXL with its 6.0L and 3.73 rear, this past summer towed the same boat on the same grade with the pedal floored at about 45-47mph and the dual AC running the whole way up the grade. With the tranny temp gauge I could watch the tranny temp rise although always within the safe zone. The engine temp only moved up about 10-15 degrees. It was quite a change from the "breath-holding" experiences of previous years while climbing that grade.

    I can't speak for how the 8.1L in a new 3/4 ton would have handled the package but I was quite satisifed with my new workhorse's capabilities when compared with my previous tugs. One other nice feature the DXL has thats not available in the 3/4 ton with the 8.1L is the self-leveling rear suspension. A compressor automatically inflates the rear suspension depending on the number of passengers, weight of cargo or tongue weight of your trailer.

    As a side note I have also found the payload and tow capacity #s strange for the the 2002 models. I wonder if GM is manipulating the maximum payload capacities (which would reduce the trailer capacities and CGVWR) in order to achieve a lower calculated CoG. A lower CoG measurement would result in a lower calculated rollover rating. Given the press and public attention on rollover ratings, lowering the theoretical CoG by simply dropping the payload capacities might be a "smoke and mirrors" attempt to get a better roll-over rating. Just a thought.
  • sgj55sgj55 Member Posts: 34
    Heatwave, you've convinced me! It sounds like
    the 6.0 - 3.73 will work fine. I just have to
    test drive the Autoride. I hear so much positive
    talk about it.

    I didn't realize that load ratings could have
    that much effect on handling characteristics.
    I was thinking maybe GM over rated their trucks
    and was now recanting.

    I'm glad you mentioned the fact that your
    transmission stayed cool, as this is a big
    concern. Right now I tow with an Astro van.
    The temp got near 300deg. I had to get a huge
    transmission cooler that only fit under the
    floor, with a fan. I didn't want to go thru that again. thanks for the info
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    It smooths out the ride by adjusting the shock damping under different conditions. In the 2500 it really makes a difference! The 2500 does not get the load leveling feature, but when you engage the tow/haul mode it firms up the rear shocks for better handling.

    This is how it is described in the manual, in technical terms.

    The RTD system is bi-state real time damping, two corner rear leveling (if equipped), and a electronic variable orifice, (EVO) power steering system, (if equipped).

    The RTD system consists of the following:

    Suspension Control Module
    Compressor/Leveling Module
    Pressure Sensor
    Exhaust Solenoid
    Compressor Motor Relay
    Steering Handwheel Speed/Position Sensor
    Electronic Variable Orifice (EVO) Solenoid
    Shock Solenoid Valves
    Position Sensors

    The objective of the suspension control module is to provide ride and handling results that are superior to a passive damper system, both on and off road at all load conditions. The suspension control module
    monitors body-to-wheel height, vehicle speed, handwheel position/speed, lift/dive status and a driver tow/haul input switch status in real time and instantly selects a "normal" or "firm" mode. This is done for
    each of the front and rear shock absorbers in order to adjust the vehicle for specific road and driving conditions.

    The suspension control module will use the rear body-to-wheel displacements and vehicle speed inputs to keep the rear trim height of the vehicle at its desired level. This is done to optimize suspension
    geometry, headlight aiming, ride travel and keep the vehicle visually level. The system utilizes the compressor motor relay and the compressor/leveling module which contains the exhaust solenoid, pressure
    sensor and compressor motor. The vehicles's rear leveling compressor motor is switched ON and OFF via a compressor motor relay which is controlled by the suspension control module. The suspension
    control module provides a switched path to ground whenever compressor activity is required. The suspension control module supplies 5 volts to the RTD air pressure sensor. The pressure sensor uses this
    reference voltage to produce an analog output of approximately 0.15 to 4.85 volts. The signal voltage is a reference of the air pressure in the rear leveling system. The exhaust solenoid valve is switched ON
    and OFF via the suspension control module. The suspension control module provides a switched path to ground whenever the exhaust "head relief" sequence occurs at compressor start-up (If system
    pressure is lower than 10 psi).

    The suspension control module also uses the steering handwheel position/speed sensor and vehicle speed inputs to control a power steering effort control valve. The suspension control module varies the
    steering assist by adjusting the current flow through the electronic variable orifice (EVO) solenoid control circuits. The amount of steering assist is dependent upon vehicle speed and input from the steering
    handwheel position/speed sensor. As the vehicle speed increases, the steering assist decreases and the driver effort increases. As the vehicle speed decreases, the steering assist increases and the driver effort
    decreases.

    The shock solenoid valve is driven ON and OFF by the suspension control module. To activate the solenoid, it is initially subjected to full battery voltage for a short period of time. Once the solenoid is
    pulled-in, the supply voltage is pulse width modulated (PWM). The amount the shock solenoid valve is activated is based on inputs from the driver Tow/Haul switch, road inputs and the PCM. The
    suspension control module provides a common ground (low reference) for all 4 of the shock solenoid valves.

    The suspension control module provides a common regulated voltage of approximately 5 volts to all four of the (body-to-wheel) position sensors, RTD air pressure sensor and the steering handwheel
    position/speed sensor. The suspension control module receives VSS from the PCM and over the class 2 circuit. The position sensors provide an analog signal voltage between 0.5 and 4.5 volts to the
    suspension control module. This signal voltage represents the wheel's position relative to the body. The suspension control module provides a 5 volt reference and a low reference to the position sensors.
  • sgj55sgj55 Member Posts: 34
    wOW! That system sounds like a lot of repair
    bills to me. I'll have to look at an extended
    warranty. I thought it might just work off the
    suspension, but it has sensors in every part of
    the car.
    How did you get your manuals? From the dealer?
  • glennyjaglennyja Member Posts: 8
    Folks,
    I drive a 1999 Chevrolet suburban; the 2 wheel drive C-1500. I've got 107K miles on the original shocks. My shocks have started to go bad, within the last 2 weeks. I am looking for someone to sell and install Bilstein shocks for my Burban. I reside in San Jose, California. To save money I see the dealer as the last resort. Any suggestions on where I can purchase Bilstein shocks and have them installed?

    Glenny
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    It sounds like more than it actually is, and depending on the model 1500 or 2500 you don't get all the pieces. You get a set up that is basically on all Cadillacs, and has been proven to last 100 K mi +, so I did not hesitate one bit when I "checked" the box on that option! Let me tell you the difference is really worth it. I did get an extended warranty, but not just because of the auto ride, but basically I figure if I am paying for a truck I don't want to pay a repair bill at the same time, so my warranty is for 5 years/100,000 miles. I chose to go with a non GM warranty because it covers everything bumper to bumper all the way through, no deductible. My wife has a GMPP warranty on her S-10 and it is worthless, no electronics, just drivetrain. If a sensor fails it's on us, even it causes driveability problems, and it has a $250 deductible. If you are in the market for one check out ALL the options, and deductibles, make sure it includes electronic components too.

    I work for GM and have access to the online service manual. But you can purchase your own hard copy through Helms. Check them out, here is a link http://www.helminc.com/helm/htm_search_gm.asp?Style=&mscsid=G5MC963TPGQX8MSBN19A8FU5GT7K9357
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I recently purchased bilstein shocks for my silverado. Cheapest place i found was autozone and the place i order from


    http://www.offroadwarehouse.com


    They are located in california. I paid $49.99 each (00 silverado Z71).


    Really good people. I am in indiana and they kept me informed on my order pretty well.


    Ryan

  • wldwmnwldwmn Member Posts: 1
    We just purchased an '01 Sub and the stereo HAS to go. In researching the options available to me, I need input.

    Would it be best to get something like the Alpine 1.5 DIN CD set that supposedly fits in the space (although one guy was wondering if it would fit with whatever pop-out slides the Chevy has put to use in the stereo space) or go with something along the lines of a regular height set (Kenwood eXcelon would probably be my choice as I have a changer I could put to good use) and fit it in with an adapter kit.

    Would LOVE to hear how other have modified their stereo's. Does the 1.5 DIN fit in the slot easily enough? How does a regular height + adapter look? Am I missing better options?

    THANKS for your ideas!
  • eversonseversons Member Posts: 38
    I replaced the stock system in my 01 YXL. The head unit is a 1.5 din Pioneer. Looks, fits and sounds great.


    There is a six month long thread on another web site. http://www.delphi.com/n/main.asp?webtag=gmsuv&nav=start


    The thread is titled: Audio system upgrades.

  • sgj55sgj55 Member Posts: 34
    Did you replace the speakers also?
    Did you add a CD disk changer?
    Were there wiring problems?
  • eversonseversons Member Posts: 38
    I had the entire system redone. It was done locally here near Seattle. The prices out here are a little high for most everything. I spent several thousand dollars for this.

    The head unit is a Pioneer 770H. It has lots of features and sounds quite nice. All of the wires were replaced. We installed 2 amps, 4x50 and 1x250 they were placed where the subwoofer was removed in the back.

    I placed a JL Audio Stealth box in the center armrest. Lost most of the storage space there, but enjoy sitting on the woofer. The door speakers were replaced with Boston Acoustic speakers as well (speaker brands are really a personal preference item). The amps are Xtant brand.

    I didn't have Onstar hooked into the system. It was an extra $100. Hey, a guy has to draw the line somewhere. Besides I have done just fine for 43 years without Onstar.

    I don't like cd changers so I didn't have one installed.

    I am quite happy with the system. It won't send ripples throught the pavement, but is plenty loud.
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    Does anybody have any experience lowering a suburban? I am thinking of getting a 2002 1500 2wd. and woud like to get the truck a little lower WITHOUT sacrificing the ride. Thinking a 2" front and 3" rear drop would be good.
    It is important that the ride not become choppy or harsh. Any suggestions?
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    I guess I stumped the thread with that question.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    b4z,

    That was a toughy! ;-)

    Maybe you'll have better luck when the weekday posters return! Meanwhile, have a great weekend!

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    Check out a show on TNN called "Trucks!". They lowered a full sized blazer claiming no ride deterioration.
  • jnj91jnj91 Member Posts: 55
    Is that show still on the air. I've only watched it a couple of times but my buddy, Mel Fair, was one of the 'hosts' and last I heard from him he was moving to L.A. to try something else.

    Maybe they let him go, I didn't ask. I just assumed that the show didn't get renewed.

    Someone, Ryan I think, lowered his Silverado. Maybe he will check in.

    Julie
  • araftcoaraftco Member Posts: 23
    I have a DXL with about 32K miles and have pulled several different trailers through a range of weights. W/o question, the DXL has performed well beyond expectations. For a vehicle that rides so well w/o pulling a trailer, the ride is equally pleasing with a trailer behind as compared to any 3/4 ton truck.

    Autoride is a definite must as the electronics behind the system are rather simple but very effective. The auto rear leveling makes pulling 7-8K pounds very true.

    As for power, I shift to 3rd, and put on cruise at 75-80 mph with 7K pounds behind and only the steeper grades give it any kind of problem when in the tow/haul mode.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    i lowered my silverado?
  • jnj91jnj91 Member Posts: 55
    I'm sorry. Someone else lowered their Silverado. Or maybe I was dreaming?

    Julie
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Member Posts: 262
    You better hope her dream doesn't come true.........I can see it now....you go out some morning to find it lowered to the ground....the hoodlums had come and stole your wheels.
  • sgj55sgj55 Member Posts: 34
    Hey, John you tow in 3rd gear? Do you
    ever tow in overdrive?
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    I thought you were supposed to tow in tow haul mode with the tranny in OD, I think that's how the owners manual explains it any ways. Tow haul mode locks the torque converter up to keep from building excess heat in the trans. If you tow in 3rd what is your trans temp? Try it in OD and see if it drops. I towed my 4200 pound car in OD no problem, in tow haul mode of course.

    Heatwave3 - What gear do you tow in?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    They will get a good workout those 285's are pretty darn heavy

    Also good luck on finding a jack that will go up high enough to get the front up.

    Julie i will raise my truck before lowering it
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Member Posts: 262
    You ever hear of a hilift.....the jack that guys 4 wheelin live or die over....it will lift your truck high enough.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    hmmm have to look into that. I know the jack i have wont lift up the front high enough unless i put a block on it.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    I have been told by several trans/rear end shops if your spare tire is not close the the tires on the truck, and you have a locking diff. you will burn up the clutches in the posi unit. I contacted the dealer about it, they called around and the "tech" center people said only way it would be covered under warranty in the event of failure is if you have no more than one size larger tires (265's on YXL/Burb) and do not engage 4WD if the spare is on the front. They HIGHLY recommend getting a matching size spare in general, but require it for warranty repair on anything above 265's.

    In short I was told if I put 285's on I better get a matching spare or no drivetrain warranty on the rear end, front diff, or transfer case. I don't know if a 285 spare would even fit under the truck in the stock spare location. I know 265 will, a friend has them on his YXL.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    I contacted eaton about the very same thing (265 vs 285 spare)

    I got a very nice reply which i will post in a few.

    I did change my spare to a 285 justto be on the safe side

    Ryan
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    MY QUESTION:

    -----Original Message-----
    From: Mestdagh, Jill
    Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 10:53 AM
    To: Holmquist, Ralph
    Subject: FW: Torque Control Feedback E-mail

    Please handle...

    -----Original Message-----
    From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]]
    Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 8:42 AM
    To: Mestdagh, Jill
    Subject: Torque Control Feedback E-mail

    name: Ryan
    company:
    title:
    phone: xxx-xxx-xxxx
    fax:
    from-email: [email protected]
    comments: I have a few questions. I have a 2000 Silverado with the
    optional
    locking differential.

    My questions are
    1. I have changed my tires from a 265/75/R16 to a 285/75/R16. Will
    this in any way affect the locker?
    2. Should i get a flat would a 265 spare tire size hurt the locker?
    Should the spare be the same size as the tires on the truck?

    From: Holmquist, Ralph
    Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 3:33 PM
    To: Mestdagh, Jill
    Subject: RE: Torque Control Feedback E-mail

    The increase in tire size should not affect the locker. Loads on the entire drive train will be up somewhat, but as long as the vehicle isn't
    abused you should not have a problem. Using a different size spare will cause minor
    differentiation which adds some wear, however if this situation isn't for an extended period the unit will not be damaged. The unit will not engage in normal driving (cornering and parking lot maneuvers). The unit could lock
    if the tires are spun. It would tend to stay locked if the smaller tire spins up first and the vehicle is driven in a straight line. This
    would be noticeable to the driver through wheel hop and driveline binding. Although
    this is unlikely to occur it is a good idea to avoid wheel spin when different size tires are used on the rear axle. If lock-up occurs,
    either back up a short distance or turn the steering wheel back and forth a few
    times to unlock the differential. The differential will not be damaged
    if it is driven while locked, however tire wear will increase.

    HOPE THIS HELPS!!!

    Ryan
  • araftcoaraftco Member Posts: 23
    When towing in overdrive, either with tow/haul on or off, it is constantly shifting in and out of overdrive. Even pulling my cargo trailer empty, it will downshift while in cruise control every 2 or 3 miles, so I simply pull it down into 3rd to avoid all of the shifting.
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    Ref your response from Eaton -- ain't it nice to get polite feedback from reasonable folk like these guys; especially after having to deal with GM service mechs?
    -- Don
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    yea BUT...

    I contacted them about a month and a half ago with no response :(
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    Sorry, I sorta got the idea they were pretty responsive and got right back to you. You have another problem they;re not helping you with?
    -- Don
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    they got back to me on that question in less than a day

    However i had a question a few months ago about a banging i had from the rear when the road was wet. Never answered oh well
  • killoughkillough Member Posts: 4
    I posted this same question on the Yukon/Tahoe board, but thought it might be better here. Perhaps someone else has seen this problem and knows the answer. My "check engine soon" light has come on two times and simultaneously started to shift very poorly as if the tranmission is slipping and it loses power. Once stopped and turned off it seems to drive fine (but the light stays on). The dealer claims that they cannot find the problem since they need to see the computer code when the problem is occurring vs. after I turn the key off. I know the computer is supposed to hold the error codes from the past, but they say that this error makes the computer go to a "safe mode" and the error code is gone once the key is turned off. Since I can't seem to drive it to the dealer when it happens this is very frustrating. Any ideas what may be causing this ... I really can't believe they have no clue. Good thing I kept my old Ford ExploDER for a while ... it is my backup .. but runs without computer problems.

    Brian
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Member Posts: 462
    jgmilberg: I tow my boat trailer in regular drive (OD) with the tow/haul mode on. I have not found it to overly hunt for a gear unless going up and down grades. It will stay steady in OD at about 60-65mph very comfortably with my 5-6000lb trailer. Tranny stays cool as does the engine temp.
  • campo57campo57 Member Posts: 94
    Does the truck seem like it's going to stop running. Does the engine cut off and back on?

    If so, you may have a problem with the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I had that problem with my Bonneville, it would never set a code and until I left it with the dealer and told them to drive it until they could find out what the problem was. They ended up hooking up a real time analyzer in order to get the code.

    Campo57
  • mcl01mcl01 Member Posts: 4
    Until now, I've never had a new vehicle use oil. I have a 2001 Yukon XL (1500) and it burns about a quart every 1.5-2K miles. The truck has 19000 miles on it, and seems to be slowing consumption. We did an extended test with our dealer over 3K miles and they concluded it was normal. What could reasonably be done to correct this? Any ideas? Seen some talk of synthetics. Otherwise it runs fine.
  • killoughkillough Member Posts: 4
    Campo57 ... take a look at 1455 and 1456 in the GMC Yukon/Chevy Tahoe thread. My engine does not cut out or stop but rather impacts the transmission. It feels like it is driving in 3rd gear from the start.

    Brian
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    If the light stays on there is a code in the computer, and it has not been fixed and they can find the problem. If the light goes out it is either an intermittent problem or the fault has been repaired. Try another dealer!
  • nboyle1nboyle1 Member Posts: 2
    Is there a way to have the foglights on the YXL remain on all the time without manually turning them on. The default is that they come on only manually when the headlights are on. When you turn the engine off, and return later, the foglights must be turned on again.

    I also have a '98 Explorer that allows the always-on option as long as the headlights are on.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Member Posts: 462
    nboyle1: You can order a fog light relay from the site below that will automatically turn on the fog lights with the headlights. Its an easy install that you can perform with no tools. The combo hi/low beam relay and the lock relay are also worth installing . I installed all three and couldn't go back. I have a 2001 Denali XL. Good Luck.


    <http://www.truckautoaccessories.com/>

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