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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • stevostevo Posts: 37
    Hello,
    2001 Suburban 1500 2wd

    Without going back and reading all 2000 posts, will anyone be kind enough to answer a quick question?
    I'm having a noise from the belt idler pulley that only happens when cold. The dealer has replaced the pulley but it has not helped much. Any suggestions/comments?
  • Sorry for the long delay in responding. I wanted to get you the part #'s & prices I found in Sept, 2001. There is a web site called "gmpartsdirect.com" that sells vertually any original GM part at less than GM wholesale prices. You can not just add the trans-temp gauge to your existing instrument cluster. You need to change your cluster to that of the 2500, Denali, or Escalade. The part #'s & prices are as follows:
    2500 part # is 15059383 @ $161.52 + S/H
    Denali # is 16252295 @ $167.21 + S/H
    Escalade # is 15073350 @ $207.10 + S/H.
    The transmission temperature data is already being sent to your existing cluster from the transmission. All you need to do is change the cluster to display it, by carefully removing the trim bezel (pulls off, you may need to move the shift lever for clearance), remove (4) screws, remove the multi-conductor cable connector from the rear, & install the new cluster reversing these steps. I installed the 2500 cluster to my 2001 YXL, as it matches the existing 1500 cluster perfectly. It took me perhaps 20 minutes total, being very careful. The Denali, & Escalade clusters are totally different in appearance, & I believe that at least the Escalade offers a 120 MPH speedometer, but the MPH resolution is less. As campo57 said, you need to have the mileage & engine hour data transferred to the new or have a sticker added to the door indicating that the odometer has been modified. This data is kept in the cluster, not the vehicle's computer. Buying from gmpartsdirect was both easy & saved about $108 from retail. I always have installed a trans temp gauge in all my tow vehicles. This is by far the best appearing setup, as it is built in, not added on. I tried to order the vehicle w/ this cluster, but it is only available from the factory on 2500, Denali, & Escalade models. Good luck, let me know what you decide, & if you need any other help. Dave
  • dbossmandbossman Posts: 28
    I have a 99 Suburban 1/2 ton with the 5.7 and 3.45 rear end. It is rated to tow 5500 lbs and does a fair job of doing so. I tow a vintage mustang around on an open trailer 3 or 4 times a year and have been satisfied with the towing capacity until the transmission went recently south at 28K miles. Apparently it had some kind of internal bearing failure. As I look around at newer models, etc, I noticed that according to the Chevy web site, the new 1/2 ton Burb, with a 5.3 is capable of towing 8400 lbs! Thats almost a 3000 lb difference?

    What's the story?
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    If you go to http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/index.cfm they also have a 120 mph cluster with the stock style red/orange pointers, not white like the Escalade and the Denali. If you prefer the red/orange pointers. Somtimes it's there on the home page and other times it's not, you can email them and ask you the part number and price, I think it's $172.00, but I'm not 100% on that. The 120 speedo is just for bragging any way unless you removed the 98 MPH limiter with a Hypertech III programmer.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    GM has a TSB on the belt noise issue, the number is 01-02-32-007, and here is what it says. Print this up or at least take the number in to the dealer with you and have it checked out. Let us know if it fixed the problem too!

    Accessory Drive Belt Whine (Reposition Power Steering Pump Pulley) #01-02-32-007
    Accessory Drive Belt Whine (Reposition Power Steering Pump Pulley)

    2001-02 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 1500 Series Utility Models (Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL, Denali, Denali XL)

    Built at Janesville Assembly Plant (Plant Code J) from December, 2000 through July, 2001
    Condition

    Some customers may comment on a whining-type noise that is audible in the vehicle's passenger compartment. This noise can typically be heard when the vehicle is idling and may vary in pitch as engine RPM is increased.
    Cause

    The power steering (PS) pump pulley may be positioned too far inboard on the PS pump.
    Correction

    Inspect the PS pump pulley for proper positioning on the PS pump shaft. If it is determined that the pulley is not even/flush with the end of the shaft (+/- 0.25 mm (0.010 in) following the applicable Service Manual procedure and using J 25034-C, reposition the PS pump pulley.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    '01 Suburban 2500HD, 6.0 liter (cold engine knock), 3.73 rear, LT w/autoride, 265 tires get avg
    of 12.59 mpg, mixed city and highway. 14335 miles, 1107 gals. $0.08 per mile, avg $1.09 per gal. No towing yet, but best mpg is 15.5 on a 1953 mile trip, worst was 9.2 all town driving.

    (did not buy it for the gas mileage)
  • sgj55sgj55 Posts: 34
    I have a 2002 Yukon XL & get the same mileage. I
    only have about 2000 miles on it. I don't have a heavy foot, although my wife is a little pepper than I. I have read on this board of people getting a little better mileage, up to 16 & 17 highway. Can I expect the mileage to increase as I
    rack up more miles on the truck, or is this it?

    My mileage on the 1st tank was 14.3, mixed driving, after that it went down to 12.4.

    I also notice the transmission doesn't shift the same way as other cars I've owned. It shifts at
    set speeds. Light engine load or RPM will not cause it to shift earlier. It will not go into
    4th gear until 50mph. I think this contributes to my lower mileage. I have to get it over 50, I
    can't hang around 45mph.

    Also I can't feel the shift points to well. I think this is because I don't accelerate very hard. Does anyone else experience this behavior?
    to shift earlier
  • y2kgtsy2kgts Posts: 48
    We turned 33,333 miles on our '00 Yukon XL (5.3 engine) this evening. Have enjoyed just about every minute with it. We have had problems with oil consumption ONLY on mountainous driving - and then it is downright scary. The last time we did some mountain driving it was going through two quarts every 500 miles. It isn't nearly as bad with normal driving - pretty much nonexistant. The dealer did a "test" (sealed the dipstick) and said it was normal. We aren't that worried about it, but check it closely on mountain drives.

    As to the driveline clunk, we would get it when we hit small bumps or pulled out of the driveway (causing the front end to drop quickly off of the lip). They told us that there was a TSB issued for a poorly designed transmission yoke. This included a new U-joint assembly. I had it in for its 30,000 mile service at the same time. Picked it up and the clunk was gone. But the car now had a high-pitched vibration between 70 and 75 mph. Took it back to the dealer. Get a call that is still amazing:

    "Sir, the new yoke we installed is not the right one. GM does not make the correct yoke to fix this problem. The U-joint is the wrong size and is slipping back and forth. It is dangerous to drive and we are installing your old, defective yoke." When I asked what THAT meant, I was told that GM hoped to have a correct part in a month or so - but that there were no guarantees. In the meantime I was stuck with the clunk. And guess what? Tonight we went on the freeway and discovered the high-pitched vibration IS STILL THERE! I suspect it is from the tire balance/rotation they also did at the same time. Sigh...

    Since a few folks asked earlier about DVD entertainment, here is what we did: We installed a 13.5" LCD drop down TV in the roof (yes, we have a sunroof and it works fine). We then popped a Pioneer portable DVD player under one of the rear seats. The TV has three inputs, so we can also hook up the kids Xbox or whatever to it and they can play away. We did the Audiovox wireless headphones so that they could listen to what they wanted while we listed to what we wanted. The TV also uses a decent outside antenna, so we can get local weather reports (with radar maps) as we travel. It also taps into the stereo system if everybody wants to listen in. Yes, we also spend a LOT of time talking and playing family games on these trips (sans TV). But since some of them are 4,000+ miles roundtrip, the DVD/game system is a nice diversion for everybody.

    If anybody wants pics of the install, just drop me an e-mail at [email protected] In the meantime, if anyone else has any suggestions on the transmission yoke or oil burning, that would be great!

    Chris
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    In my experience the dealer can't balance a tire on the concrete floor if the tire was laying down! Let alone position tire weights on the rim in the correct position, try going to a real tire shop. Check your weights also, make sure they are for aluminium rims. The weights will have AL on them and they will be painted to protect against dissimilar metals from reacting and corroding your rims.

    Another possibility is that the vibration is that they messed up your u-joint when they changed the yoke, like dropping one of the needle bearings out. This will cause the vibration. Another thing they may have done is install the yoke out of phase with the drive shaft. What that means is when the drive shaft is balanced they do it as an assembly including the yoke. If they installed the yoke backwards(180 degrees flipped) them it can also cause a vibration.
  • sgj55sgj55 Posts: 34
    that amount of oil consumption at any time is
    extremely unacceptable! There is something wrong.
    I keep hearing alot of people being told ridiculous problems are normal. According to some on this & other forums GM has come out with a TSB that says a quart in 1000 miles is OK, which I find ridiculous, That would mean if you change your oil every 4000 miles you would actually do two oil changes in 4000 miles.

    I am sure 99% of owners don't experience this
    amount of oil consumption when mountain driving.
    Which means that something isn't right with your
    truck.

    Something seems to be changing when the engine is
    under heavy load to let oil into the combustion
    chamber,assuming it's not leaking out.

    I'd have the dealer find out what it is & correct
    it.
  • I am planning to purchase a 2002 4WD Half-ton Suburban within the next 1-2 weeks. This will be wife's soccer-mom mobile 95% of its life. I will have occasion, however to tow other vehicles which weigh 4500-5000 lbs (not counting the trailer). The GM rep on the toll free number says 4.10 axle would be recommended, but her responses did not instill confidence, to say the least. At least one other post claims to tow other cars with the same motor with the 3.73 axle with ease. Input needed:

    1. Do I really need the 4.10 axle?

    2. If so, how much mileage will I sacrifice?

    3. Is Auto-ride worthwhile in this situation?
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    A 3.73:1 should tow just fine. According to the manual a 1/2 ton with 4wd/3.73 can tow up to 7700# with the 5.3L. You will save on fuel economy for sure. I believe Heatwave3 on the 2001+Denali/Denali XL board has a 3.73:1 axle and tows a 7000# boat with out a problem. Ask him about it, I could be wrong about his gear ratio.

    Autoride is worth every penny!! I WILL NEVER buy another SUV without it EVER! It really smooths the ride like you wouldn't believe, and if you are going to tow with it, Autoride has a leveling feature that keeps the truck level with the weight of the trailer on the back. That will make it a much safer and easier to drive while towing. If you doubt what I say test drive a Denali XL and then a Burban. If your wife will be driving it most of the time then she will love the Autoride for the car like ride it will give. The problem is finding one that has it in your area, most dealers are not really savvy on what the system does or how it works, so they don't recommend it, or order it for the lot lizard trucks. You can still get an order in for one, and it shouldn't take that long to get, usually within 8 weeks you can get a 4wd 1/2 ton. If you have a reliable car and can wait for the ordered unit go that route and save up some more $$$ for the down payment.

    Also in my earlier post you will see the changes on the '03 models. You may want to consider waiting until June/July and order a new one with all the updates. I have some picts I can email you if you want to see the difference. Dual climate controls will be really nice for driving with your wife, typically women want to have the heat on higher than the men do, so it will help out on the temp arguments!
  • everharteverhart Posts: 59
    My neighbor said the same thing as he tows all the time but last week his autoride went out & the dealer told him it's going to cost him $2,800.00 to fix !!!! He is now fighting with GM as his Sub has only 39,000 miles on it. Not so sure it's worth it if it costs that much to repair unless you get rid of it before the waranty runs out or by a ext.waranty. PS: This is his 2nd. autoride failure.
  • Thanks to both everhart and jgmilberg for your insight into these issues. Your help is appreciated !!
  • y2kgtsy2kgts Posts: 48
    For those that have asked about my 13.5" DVD set up, here is a teaser of the drop-down TV:

    image

    I shot several more pictures of the install, including where the DVD is "mounted" (using Velcro) and how we connect up the video game consoles. Also pictured is the wireless headphone setup. E-mail me if you want those pictures and I will send you the links.

    Thanks for the comments on the driveline clunk and vibration. It has been very helpful in discussing this with the dealer. She goes in tomorrow morning and will hopefully be fixed for good!

    Chris

    PS. I have never had a problem with the Autoride (33,000+ miles) and really like it as a feature.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Chris,

    How did you flip the picture upside down?

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • y2kgtsy2kgts Posts: 48
    It isn't actually flipped at all. This is a made-for-the-ceiling TV from Flexvision (Audiovox). Like the smaller versions now appearing in so many minivans, it drops down and the picture is right-side-up. It folds flatter than a small laptop and doesn't interfere with the sliding sunroof - or the sunroof cover either! Hook up your DVD and your Xbox and you are set for some serious fun at those boring rest areas!

    Chris
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I have the 3/4 ton and it is different from the system on the 1/2 ton, I don't get the load leveling feature. It really smooths out the ride. I purchased an extended warranty to cover myself on repairs if the system goes out.

    Everhart, what exactly failed on your neighbors truck? Is he overloading the system? How much does his trailer weigh? I am really interested in this because it is the first I have heard of on the system going out. $2800 is more than the option costs. He really shouldn't have to fight to hard with GM over the repair, if he had a problem with the system before the vehicle has a history of that problem and GM usually takes care of it no problem, especially if the same parts failed the 2nd time. My friend just had his seat repaired for the 2nd time in his truck and he has 41k on it, but since it had a history....
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Aha! Thanks, Chris - looks like a really nice system!

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • wkohlerwkohler Posts: 74
    I am the owner of a 2001 suburban with the "premium ride" suspension. Before purchasing, I drove a vehicle with "autoride". I really couldn't tell the difference. After determining the make-up of "autoride", I elected to go with the "premium ride" just in case problems developed down the road. I figured it would be a lot less expensive to repair if problems arose. Granted, I did no towing with with either system before purchase, so it is possible that towing may make a difference and give a better ride with "auto ride". However, I am very happy with the "premium ride" suspension and the leveling that it affords when trailering.
  • how fast can the Suburban go!.can it get up to 120!.and how fast can you get the Suburban up to 60mph. do all Suburbans ride the same?.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    robertsmg: I tow a 6500lb boat when fully loaded with a Denali XL which comes with the 3.73 ratio rear. I am very satisifed with it compared to my previous 3/4 ton Sub with a 7.4L engine and a 4.10 rear.

    In fact I'd say the 6.0L and 3.73 pulls substantially stronger than the previous Sub. I towed the package up the same stiff grade with both I have been able to maintain about 9mph more at max speed (44mph) vs the 3/4 tons Subs max speed of 35mph. Would never go back although I would certainly consider the 3/4 ton with 8.1L if my tow package was any larger than the current one.

    Also I agree the autoride is a must.

    y2kgts: the picture of the TV setup looks great. I'll email you for more pictures, instal tips and pricing.
  • y2kgtsy2kgts Posts: 48
    I am not sure about top speed. In mine, there is a governor that shuts it down at EXACTLY 100 mph. You can zip it up to 99 with no problems (and it feels as though there is more to go) and at 100 mph the engine bogs down. This was in Montana, of course ; ). I have the same thing on my sports car, although it shuts down based on RPMs and not speed (gone 175 in that baby with more to go). My Yukon XL has the 5.3.
  • chief29chief29 Posts: 14
    I also have installed a DVD system in my Yukon. I chose to install mine in the rear of the console using Clarion equipment. I chose this location because I didn't want to get into the head liner and I didn't want to block the rear view mirror.
    Here is a question, where is the best place to connect to power this equipment? I currently have a plug that I insert into the power outlet. This is only temporary until I find the right place to connect to an accessory power source.
  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    What's the scoop, do they work -- I am looking at the idea of added MPG, but if it adds power (I don't need more power), or makes the engine noisier I don't need that either.


    The ads always sound like making gas out of water, you know ADDED POWER, RESPONSE, and MPG!!! and just $$$$.


    Any thoughts? Here is a website for those who are also interested and I am told they are running a special for about $20 off the price.


    http://www.ultimatepd.com/

  • ok if you put it on will it get more hp!.it has 285 do you need more!!! .
  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Looks like your punctuation and spelling were defeated in the last battle!
  • upniteupnite Posts: 1
    When I bought my new 2000 Suburban 1500, there was quite a discussion on tires and the resonance noise (feeling)that some would experience while driving on certain roads.Well, I never experienced a serious condition with my Goodyear Wrangler ST tires. I am now ready to buy a new set of tires.I am tempted to go with the Michelin LTX A/S 245/75-16 SR Speed Rating tires but I would like to have some recommendations from other 2000 Burban owners that solved there noise problem with a new set of tires. (What kind?) I don't want to create the noise problem with a new set of tires. I just need an all season tire for highway travling and not much trailering. Thanks folks for responding.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    I had the dealer to put the Michelin LT265/70R16 M/S (Load Range C) on my wife's '01 K2500HD Suburban before we picked it up new. These replaced the Firestone 245/70R16 (Load Range E)
    I have a set of Firestone P265/70R16 that have 5000 miles on them that are for sale at a good price FOB that came off of a '00 Silverado K1500.
  • Hey chief29 - need more info on Clarion stuff.
    Sounds interesting. Would like to hear/see what you did. [email protected]
  • prossi01prossi01 Posts: 1
    I have to upgrade to the XL this week. Anybody know if the body style is due to change in the next 2-3 years. Am trying to make a lease vs. buy decision...they currently have a 0% financing option.
    Thanks,
  • volkovvolkov Posts: 1,306
    I'm sure no-one knows who I am as I haven't been here for over a year since just after purchasing our SLT, which we love. Now we have a problem.
    We have 3 small boys in car seats. The most functional set-up is to keep the the 60% seat in the second row flipped flat at all times. We put two child seats in the back row, and one behind the passenger seat. The flat space gives us space to check seatbelts etc without putting our backs, out, but still lets the boys climb in and out of their seats by themselves. Come the end of the winter, we clean up the car only to find linear brown streaks on the carpet back of the 60% fold down set. The lines match the seat suports perfectly. Lift up the carpet corners, and lo and behold the supports are completely rusted!! The rust is simply oozing through the carpet. Has anyone else had this problem? Should this be a warranty issue? If so, what should I expect as a repair or correction? If the seat back is designed to flip down to function as a floor platform then it should darn well be able to resist getting wet!! NO-one would stand for their floor rusting in a new upper $$ vehicle. The XL is only 16 months old. Any advice?
    Thanks
  • I've been seeing some great info on changes from the '02 to '03 Suburban models and am wondering where I can go to get more details. Due to my situation (I'm a naval officer currently stationed overseas) I had to order an '02 to ensure I could get the vehicle I wanted but do have the option to trade up to an '03 when they become available. Unfortunately, the new car sales offices are usually a few months behind the stateside dealerships in getting information. I would really appreciate any pics of the new model and pricing information, 1500 w/Z71 package, no sunroof. I really like the '02 but that dual climate control in the front seat is very appealing to my wife.
    Specific thanks to jgmilberg-your posts were the ones that got me thinking about making an upgrade.
    Please post any info you have or send it direct to "[email protected]" Thanks, Brett
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    Would very much like to see the photos posted here. I will buy either a 03 Tahoe or a 03 Burb.
    Desperately need more info.
    jgmilberg - please consider posting the photos here.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    They are to large to post here trying to be considerate of the other members with slower connections. I will be happy to email them to you directly, just email me the address is in my profile. I could email them to one of the hosts if they think they can shrink them down and post them.
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    Since I converted to Windows XP last week I`m having trouble sending E-mail. Incoming works fine. Please address any info to:
    [email protected]
    Thank you for your continued help to all on this
    board.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    I could shrink them, jgmilberg, but I don't have a place to host them. Most of the free and/or cheap album sites have folded, although I hear Sony has a new one started up. Juice (ateixteira) mentioned the site the other day, but I didn't save the link.

    There are more details in the Town Hall help about pic posting.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Anyone with an ordinary ISP can "host" pictures by doing an FTP upload to your own "home page" which most ISPs provide. You'll need to check with your ISP for details. (I don't know if this feature is available with AOL.)

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
  • kjgrothkjgroth Posts: 1
    Anyone ever hear a low pitched "boing" noise that sounds more like a "doooom" coming from what sounds like the right side undercarrige under or near the front seat passenger or RF wheel well? Sound like metal is expanding and making the noise. It happens all the time now at stops while the care is running and after it's shut off. Own a 2000 YXL.
  • sailboatsailboat Posts: 21
    Our 99 Suburban is developinga "Vrooming" noise upon initial acceleration. Started out just when it was cold (I'm in Phoenix, so cold isn't really that cold!) but it's becoming all too common whenever you start from a stopped position. Had a friend suggest that it may be something in the transmission. Dealer looked at it once, but no fix. Anyone experience this?
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    I test drove a 2001 Suburban with a 3.73 axle and one with a 4.10 axle (5.3 engine). I found that the 3.73 axle did not feel as quick (without a trailer) as the 4.10 axle. So, I recommend the 4.10 axle, especially since you will be trailering.

    I purchased a 2001 DXL because I wanted the 6.0 liter engine. I have been very pleased with the acceleration and trailering of this vehicle (it has the 3.73 with the 6.0 engine).
  • automan227automan227 Posts: 118
    I have experienced this noise in multiple cars that I have owned and it sounds like your tranny may be going bad. Since I am not a car expert, I can't be sure, but its a good chance its the tranny.

    AS
  • kent31kent31 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 'burb LS w/50000 miles and have also experienced the "boing" noise. Seems to eminate from the passenger side of the vehicle towards the rear. Also, mine has begun to stall frequently at idle speeds or when coming to a stop. I have already tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes for a reset, no luck. I guess its off to the dealer. Other than that, no problems, I cannot imagine not owning one.
  • Recently purchased a 2002 Yukon XL and want to upgrade grill/lights to Denali style. (Probably should have paid extra bucks but got a good deal) .. Can anyone recommend a punch grill (Putco any good ??)and if the Denali factory lights will fit this vehicle ?? Also want to upgrade to HID ??? Thanks for any assistance .. SEAN
  • k2riderk2rider Posts: 21
    I haven't posted on Town Hall for a couple years. I was looking/researching Expedition info at the time and ended up with a 4X4 SuperCrew. We are very happy with it and haven't had any problems. However, we now want a 3rd row of seats AND storage. I love the 2nd row bucket seats. This keeps the 8 & 10 year olds from fighting and since the seats independently lean back, they can sleep in peace.

    Anyway, I started hitting the dealers today in Southern California (San Diego area). I saw in last weekends paper that 2-3 dealers have anywhere from $3000-4200 of MSRP and that's BEFORE the $2002 rebate. We're going to be looking at the 4X4 Sub LT, YXL SLT, or the Z71 package (leaning to Z71 right now because no cheesy molding onnthe sides). What has everyone else paid for these rides? Any input would be appreciated...Thanks!!
  • psu1983psu1983 Posts: 24
    We just purchased 2 weeks ago in Houston an '02 Pewter Z71 Suburban for $38,136. It had a sticker of $43,333. Primary options are 2nd row buckets, sunroof and liftgate. We then opted for 3.9% financing for 60 months in lieu of the additional $2002 rebate. Additionally, we did have a trade-in ('99 LT 4x4 Suburban) which I feel we got a good deal on ($19,040). Although the ride in the Z71 is certainly more firm than the LT (either w/ premium or autoride suspension), we prefer the style much more with the Z71. It also appears (at least in Texas) that Z71's command a higher resale than LT's, I'm sure in large part because they're harder to come by.

    Good luck.
  • pilkopilko Posts: 22
    Does anyone know the 03 Suburban dates for release of prices and options, order acceptance and start up?
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    Been Waiting for any info myself. No details on options or pictures.
    Posted my E-mail here but no reply.
    Did see that GM is being sneaky. A couple of safety items that was standard they will now bill us for. The first I saw was ABS ( Braking System ) and the second was certain Air Bags.
    No doubt they will say we are holding the price.
    ( They just changed a few items from standard to OPTIONAL = you pay. ) I hope they don`t go back to drum brakes as standard, and charge us for Disc.
  • automindautomind Posts: 8
    Just one quick question, how do I remove the license plate light on a '99 suburban. Do I just pull real hard? I really don't want to break the silly part. Kind of tough to reach under the bumper due to the hitch.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    I don't know about the Suburban specifically but I'd try (gently) pushing the bulb inward and rotating it counterclockwise while the bulb is still depressed.

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs
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