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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    You have to go under the bumper and either remove the socket or depress a little tang that hold the housing in the bumper so you can replace the bulb.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Well they begin production the 3rd week of July on the '03 models, this is a standard with a current run vehicle no matter what GM brand it is. In some cases they begin production the last week in June, but mostly that is to get the line full of the next model year for startup, just to work out the final bugs in the assembly process. The new models will start trickling into the dealers by late July early August depending on how close you are to the plant.

    Options, as far as what I have found out the side impact (seat mounted) airbag and anti lock brakes are going to be standard on the upscale models, like the SLT and LT, but options on base models like the SLE. The 4 wheel discs are here to stay for the trucks, GM was nagged too long and too hard about poor braking on the trucks and SUVs so that feature will be permanent.

    '03 Tahoe-sorry about that your picts are on the way!!
  • sgj55sgj55 Posts: 34
    Just got a '02 YXL in Feb. I have 2500 miles on
    it. Twice when I was stopped at a light and started to go the transmission seemed to slip as if the tires were spinning then catch a second later and drive normally. The 1st time it happen I thought it possible the tires did slip because the road was wet. But the 2nd time the road was dry. Anyone have this happen to them? Any ideas?
  • Thanks for the suggestions. I did crawl under the truck and reached up behind the bumper to unscrew the bulb holder. The little bulb then twists out. Very dirty under the rear bumper, not easy to reach with the factory hitch in place. Might be easier to remove the license plate and reach it through that opening.
  • bwoodsmnbwoodsmn Posts: 1
    I get the same type noises in my Tahoe - the location under the right front passenger is right where the catalytic converter is - You are hearing the metal expanding and contracting.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    If you have this occur in the morning while there is dew on the grass/road, the lines on the road will let the tires spin. Does this happen only if you are the first one at the light? Have you tried to duplicate the slip while in 4wd? I get that slip all the time on wet, or when early morning dew is on the ground, but only if I am the first one in line at the light and only if I take off kind of fast.
  • tasillotasillo Posts: 51
    The new Automobile magazine has a picture of the new dash going into the truck line. Actually, it doesn't look all that different. I'm more interested in the running gear. Hoping to see GM make the 6.0L available in 1500 series trucks as well as a more agressive tire/wheel package and the trans temp gauge. Even if the 6.0L came only in the Z71 pkg, would be great. I don't want the full-time AWD of the denali nor the nuch higher price and reduced availability of the GMC brand. If anyone has heard anything, please post!
  • twattstwatts Posts: 4
    I'm hearing a "whirring" noise above my head, seemingly coming from the little 1-inch plastic circle, directly above the driver's seat in my '01 Suburban LT with auto climate control.

    I thought I read here that the little plastic disk was some sort of temperature sensor, but when I mentioned the whirring noise to my technician, he said the little plastic disk was the ON-star speaker and he didn't see how it could make a whirring noise.

    I know I've also read about the "whirring" noise coming from above the driver's seat on this forum before ... but can't find it now.

  • jwbrayjwbray Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 3/4 ton suburban and it has done that same thing for over a year now. I live in Tucson, Az and it slips while I take off at times also. GM says they have a fix for the 1/2 tons but not the 3/4 yet. The problem is in the yoke on the drive shaft.
  • pihenpihen Posts: 2
    Hello, I am to buy a used Burb (can't afford a new one), probably '97 or '98, what about the transmission (ie auto gearbox) reliability ? I do know the 6.5 TD engine can make some hundreds of thousands miles, but I still fear that the high torque this engine delivers can shortly destroy its transmission. Any experiences in this area ?
    Thanks a lot / Pierre (from France)
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    you wont ever see the 6.0L available in 1500 series trucks. Why you ask?



    Id love to see it but it wont happen (unless you are jay leno who is the only person to have a 1500 reg cab with a 6.0 installed by gm)
  • kent31kent31 Posts: 2
    I thought the 1500HD was a 1500 with a 6.0 L.

  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    1500HD actually is a 2500 labeled a 1500(HD)

    GVWR for the 2500 (non HD) is 8600 and the GVWR for the 1500HD is 8600. Both have 8 lug rims.

    1500HD = 2500

    They named it a 1500HD to appeal to more people (GM marketing) cause the average joe would buy a 1500 over a 2500
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    This is also the only way you get a 1/2 ton crew cab! Even if it's a reg duty 3/4 ton. I think the spring rates may be different, but I am not sure about it 100%
  • sgj55sgj55 Posts: 34
    jmilberg: No it wasn't in the A.M. It happens
    when the roads were wet or dry. I also tend to have a light foot on the gas, so I don't feel
    it's that.

    jwbray: How is that possible for the yolk to slip?
    There are no clutches in the drive shaft, it's a
    solid connection. I'm glad you answered I thought
    it was just me. I'm going to take it in & see
    what the dealer tells me. I'll let you know.

    Does it seem to get worse or more frequent over time? Other wise does your tranny work OK? also does your truck shift at the same speed all the
    time? My truck will not go into 4th gear till
  • cknottcknott Posts: 61

    I do not currently own a Suburban, but can at least share an experience.

    I test drove a 2002 3/4 ton 2wd Suburban last week. I noticed the slippage. I would notice the slippage once I stopped as I was getting ready to "go" again, ie. a redlight/greenlight change. I was also using a light foot so I could "feel" the truck better during the test drive. The pavement was dry, no painted surfaces nearby. I would apply pressure to the gas pedal, the engine would begin to accelerate, the vehicle would sit there for about 1.5~2 seconds, and then the vehicle would begin to move. Based on my knowledge of these powertrains, I would think that the problem is in the torque converter or transmission pump. If you had an old TH350 GM automatic that was really low on transmission fluid, it would do the same thing. However, I cannot recall if I observed this problem at every stop and go transaction or if it did it even after the engine and transmission was hot and had been running for a while. For the record, this suburban was a 3/4 ton, 3.73 gears, 2wd, 6.0L, and for some reason, it did not have a trans. temp gauge. I thought all 3/4 tons had a trans temp gauge?
  • eversonseversons Posts: 38
    I have 35,000 miles on my 2001 YXL with 8.1 liter. About once every 8-12 weeks I experience the slippage. Almost like the truck is on rollers. I give it a little gas, the engine speed increases but the vehicle doesn't move for perhaps a second and then starts moving. Always in a straight line on dry pavement with a warm engine.

    I have not had any problems with this vehicle and will go to the dealer service department for the first time in May to check for any error codes/ recalls etc.

  • cessna83cessna83 Posts: 3
    2001 2500 Suburban cuts off while driving down road. Dealer says can't find any error codes so
    they will not attempt repair. They say call if happens again. Has stopped running while driving numerous times. Every time they say no error codes. No repair even attempted. Wife now afraid to drive it - has stopped on her many times. Takes up to 20 minutes to restart. This defect creates a potential deathtrap. Oh yeah, the transmission slips also. Any other info??
    E-Mail: [email protected]
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    I agree with your wife - that truck IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE!
    Have you reported the dealers refusal to attempt service to any automotive safety council? If not you should. Engine cut-outs at highway speeds can cause loss of life. How would you like to attempt a lane change, only to have the engine shut down just as you are halfway between the two lanes. The sudden loss of power could cause multiple collisions in the two lanes.
    For this serious type of failure the dealer knows that a test set can be installed in your vehicle to trap failure codes. They can do more. Many codes clear when the engine is shut down and then restarted.
    I would NOT simply call the dealer when it happens again. I would take the truck in for service every time the truck stalls out. KEEP A GOOD,ACCURATE RECORD and process a Lemon Law buy-back. It is far better to go thru this process than chance the loss of life.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    both my wife and I own two '01 Subn's 1/2 ton 5.3 liter engine.. she has an LT with 3.73 gears that she got in April '01.. I have a Z71 with 4.10 gears that I got in June '01 .. I have had both vehicles do the 'slippage' thing on one occasion each ..I was driving both times with the exact same scenario...

    I started the vehicle in a parking lot... and immediately put it in forward gear... I pressed the accelerator.. that awful feeling.. almost like a blown tranny ...I put it in neutral... then Park...kept the engine running... never happened again.. all was fine...

    the only conclusion I can come to was that I 'beat' the computer by putting it in gear too fast after starting... sounds silly..... dealer said they never heard of it... I think they 'fib'... I'm sure if it happened to both our 'burbans it's happened to many many more... got to be a 'computer thing' that recycles and goes back to 'norm' hasn't happened since last year to either vehicle

    maybe someone else on here has seen/heard of it on other message boards...
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    have had it on my 2000 silverado. So far with over 25K miles it has happened 10-12 times. All spread out maybe ever few thousand miles.
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    Went over on the Adelphi/GMSUV board, to see how many other stupid dealers were telling customers "Since no Trouble Codes are set we can do nothing".
    Under the section known as "General Discussion - GM Customer Service" please read post 19. "Hub Cap" tells of his 100% small claims court success and offers help to others.
    You might also try your local Better Business Bureau and your State Attorney Generals Office.
    You also have the right to ask your dealer for a contact Name and Number for the Local Zone Office.
    By the way what is the Dealers exact name - the one who can`t fix your truck. Others considering purchases might want to know of this service "lack of ability".
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I would look at going to another dealer and calling the 1-800-chev-usa number and give them a good what for about that dealer. Any dealer that is like that does not deserve return business for anything including service work!! Chevy dealers are everywhere, and if you can't find one close by then go to a GMC dealer and tell them the trouble you had at Chevy and they will be more than happy to fix your truck.
    It's just a guess but it could be a bad crank sensor, and that should have been replaced as standard practice to ensure that is not the problem.
  • sgj55sgj55 Posts: 34
    Wow! When I posted this question I thought that
    the problem would be unheard of. But I guess
    judging from the responses that this is another
    little quirk we can add to GM's list of glitches
    they don't want to fix!
  • funkcityfunkcity Posts: 100
    Well after 120,000 miles on a 95 454 2wd Suburban, the engine has a rod knock.(AGAIN!) And after it being completely rebuilt last year I have finally decided to buy a new one.(Suburban or Yukon XL that is)

    From what I can tell, the 2500 6.0 engine should have just the same amount of towing power as my 454 TBI motor,and better mileage to boot.

    Although usually used for my wife's transporting kids to and from school, basketball etc..., I do have occasion to tow (6000lbs+)some steep grades in and out of Southern California.

    Does anyone have any towing experiences between the 6.0 and the 8.1?
    I test drove an 8.1 and it kicked butt!....but
    reports of it being at least 4 mpg worse than the 6.0 are tempering my desire.

    Do you folks have any first hand experience that could aid me in my decision making?
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Something that has to do with the valve body
  • cessna83cessna83 Posts: 3
    This time (4th trip to dealer) the computer showed an error with the crank sensor. Tech said if sensor is going bad it will tell the engine it is not running and will turn engine off. Tech said the GM support line told him that this was happening with some of the 8.1 big blocks. He also said in every case that replacing the crank sensor has solved the problem.We have a case # with GM customer service. We are picking up the car tommorow, and will update in a week or two.(if not sooner)
  • cessna83cessna83 Posts: 3
    Last year we purchased a 2001 1500 Suburban with
    the 6.0. We sometimes tow a trailer weighing approx. 6400 lbs. It seemed to strain a little even on fairly flat roads. Had numerous problems
    with vehicle - GM bought back after 2200 miles.
    That is when we bought the 2500 series that we are having the engine stopping problem with.
    Post 2170
    The 8.1 engine tows this same trailer with ease.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    2001 1500 suburban with a 6.0???

    First off whered ya get that?
  • funkcityfunkcity Posts: 100
    Thanks Cessna,
    Sorry to hear of your Suburban Problems.
    I know how it feels as when our 95 was brand new it shipped with a defective engine block!
    The 8100 is enticing.

    If it weren't for the fact that the Ford Excursion is actually 2000 pounds heavier (and less powerful)and that Dodge does not even make a Suburban-style vehicle, we would have bailed on the GM option. They(GM)still hold center court.

    As I read here I keep seeing Trans-Slipping reports. Has there been a fix or recall for these seemingly common problems?
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    Helm now lists GMT02CK8UV as IN STOCK.
    For 2002 AVALANCHE
    Cost is $120.00 + Shipping of about $6.00
  • dfwk2500dfwk2500 Posts: 68
    We had a '94 with 7.4L engine and 3.73 gears. When we ordered our '01 Yukon XL we also had to decide between the 6.0 and the 8.1. The 6.0's numbers beat the 7.4's so I knew the new truck could handle the same loads as the old one. At the time we ordered 9/00, the 8.1 was having the crank sensor problems and GM was pulling the entire engine and replacing them in the pickups. I was concerned about future problems with the engine (at least until they got the bugs worked out) so we went with the 6.0. Just to be safe, I switched to the 4.10 gears. We have not yet hauled fully loaded and towing to Snowmass yet, so I can't tell for sure how it will handle the mountains in the summer under the same strains as the 7.4, but everything we have done to date tells me I did not make the wrong choice. While the 8.1 would certainly have given me "more power" I already have more power than the previous Suburban - which was sufficient for our uses. The aggravation factor that I was concerned with on the 8.1 seems to have been justified given the above posts that the sensor issue has still not resolved. The gas mileage thing did not concern me too much, but we are getting, on average 4-5 mpg, better with the 6.0 and 4.10 over the 7.4 with the 3.73. Just our experiences. BTW I don't know if the numbers on my '94 7.4 vs your '95 7.4 are the same or different. My recollection is the 95 was a vortec engine while the 94 was not.
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    Shipment cost went up to $6.50.
  • sub2500sub2500 Posts: 9
    I had a 98 Yukon that blew a trans at 42K, and a friends 98 Tahoe that went at 46K. GM did not help with either one.
  • funkcityfunkcity Posts: 100
    Thanks for the info.
    The 95 was the last year before the Vortec. The Vortec did indeed have extra power. I was just one year early.
    We are also leaning toward 6.0 and 4.10 gears.

    So I went to the engine shop today and saw first hand what a spun rod bearing can do to a crankshaft!
    I sure hope I have better luck with the new models!

    Say, is there any info yet anywhere on the 03 XLs and Suburbans?
  • foxboro1foxboro1 Posts: 1
    Would anyone please help me program the keyless remote for 2001 suburban. I purchased a 3rd remote on ebay last week but the instruction is hard to find. To a dealer, it seems like this is the most guarded secret in the car business - some quoting $40 for this. I know a good samaritan is out there who is willing to dispense this information freely. Where are you?
  • lafnjimlafnjim Posts: 2
    I am averaging 10mpg on my suburban. anyone
    else having this trouble?

    I have had 8 Suburbans in 15 years. 86,94,95,96,
    97,99, 01 and 02(z-71)

    I have had two lemons 94 for OIL CONSUMPTION and
    97 for Electrical Issue that caught truck on fire.

    96 was a Paint (lemon peel problem) issue but
    too late to do anything with it. Had it 54 months
    was in shop 7 of them.

    02 is ok so far. 95 was a used one with the odometer rolled back.

    Christ, I have had some luck with Suburbans.

    But the mileage is an issue. Anyone with the
    same problem.

    When I drive at 65 I heard tapping noises
    coming from the engine. Anybody else
    have that.

    Email me [email protected]
  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    If you have 4 wd and you engage the autotrack (or whatever it's called) that could decrease your mileage by 2 to 5 mpg.

    Other factors are how you drive and how often you sit at idle.

    I have a 5.3 2002, it gets about 15 and 18+. I drive it at whatever speed is prevailing on the highway, and try not to idle too long (at the store, if I am waiting for my wife -- for example). If the traffic is really bad I'll go to about 13 but is the rare occasion and low end.

    There are several other web sites try this one navigate around it to the big truck forums, yours is a topic on there.

    Good luck.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    'autotrack (or whatever it's called) that could decrease your mileage by 2 to 5 mpg.'

    Wow back in december 2000 i drove in 4 wheel hi and autotrac for a whole month. Only seen about a .5 - 1mpg loss with 3 fillups

    I dont know if itll make you feel better but i filled up yesterday and i got 11.6 mpg which was 100% city driving. Mainly because of my stlye of driving (short trips, stop light to stop light racing)
  • kac012965kac012965 Posts: 3
    Can you tell me if their are any changes coming to the 2003 year model Suburbans, both interior and exterior?
  • kac012965kac012965 Posts: 3
    Has anyone had problems with their 1999 Suburban regarding Mold and Mildew odor emitting from the A/C vents?
  • chahn48926chahn48926 Posts: 4
    I am looking for the trouble codes for the Anti-Lock brake computer (like the engine computer and the check engine light). The brake light on my 90 suburban is flashing a code, and I want to see what is wrong.


    Charles Hahn
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    Not trying to be a smart "A" but did you check your brake fluid level. I know this will bring on the ABS light. Have been in a burb that suddenly displays the ABS warning light and he pumped the brake which got rid of the light. After 12 years or so you could have a leaking brake cylinder, or something else causing fluid loss. A good under-carriage visual inspection is in order - in my humble opinion.
    My good buddy only has service manuals for 1999, 2000 and 2001 years. Just for kicks, tomorrow I will compare these three years to see if the codes stay the same. Maybe GM keeps the same codes year after year.
  • chahn48926chahn48926 Posts: 4
    Fluid Level is fine. And no visible leaks (other than tranny, but that is another prob). Thanks for the help.

  • rockmgrrockmgr Posts: 1
    I have just purchased my third suburban and fourth GM large SUV in the last 10 years. (92 'burb, 96 Tahoe, '00 burb, and now '02 burb).
    During highway speed driving, the vehicle feels feels as though the tail will, without warning, shift to either the right or left, requiring steering reaction to correct the vehicle, or it would go onto the shoulder or the next lane. (I have never had this feeling with any of the previous vehicles, and with the much publicized improved handling on the new generation suburbans, this is very disapointing).

    Has anyone else experienced this problem? Should I pursue this with the dealer? My 'burb is a 2wd 1500 with autotrac.

    Thanks in advance to all who respond.

  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    My friend brought his newly acquired 2002 Service Manual into work today. I just wanted to see how many DTC`s were listed and the degree of printed information.
    For the 2002`s
    There are 126 pages covering ABS Systems.
    There are 79 Diagnostic Trouble Codes listed.
    All of this information is in Volume 1 of a four volume set.
    Coverage begins on page 5-120 and runs through page 5-246.
    The codes start with C-0201 and run thru C-0298.
    At the end there were a few odd ball codes such as P-1571, P-1644 and P-1689. There are about 24 numbers missing in this otherwise sequential list.

    You said a number is flashing - does it fall with-in this number/letter series? If you can give me a code I`ll at least check all three years and see if the code changes.

    Would like to help more but I am NOT a auto repair person.
    Just hanging in here looking for 2003 Chevy SUV ordering info.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Try going to your local Auto Zone store, thy have the machine to pull the code and tell you what is wrong. Best thing is they do it for FREE!!!!

    Another thing to check is the brake light wiring, if you have a trailer light harness tied into the brake lights it could be shorting out causing the problem. I don't know how it is connected to the ABS system, but I have disconnected or fixed several harnesses and that took care of the light flashing.
  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    I have an 02 Sub, LS model 4wd. Mine does nothing like what you have described, are your wheels balanced, load equal, 2 or 4 wd auto ride or not, haul mode engaged or not, still many questions.

    I have made 3 long hwy trips had speeds over 80 (if conditions and others allowed), with anywhere from 1 (me) to 4 people, and both empty and pretty heavy full loads and still nothing like what you are describing. Either here or on the Tahoe forum, someone mentioned something about the torsion bar, could that be a clue?

    Otherwise a trip to dealerville might be in order.

    Good Luck
  • chahn48926chahn48926 Posts: 4
    It is flashing one fast flash the one long (Slow) flash) or vice versa. Regular like clockwork. Thanks for the Autozone tip. We have one here if they can (and will) do it.

  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    Transmitter programming: Note: Entering the programming mode will erase programming for any existing transmitters. All transmitters, old and new, must be present and reprogrammed at the same time.

    1. Start with the ignition OFF, hold down the power unlock button on the door panel. Turn the ignition key ON (do not start), OFF, ON, OFF . Release power unlock button on the door panel. The locks will cycle once.

    2. Hold down the keyless entry transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons for 15 seconds. The locks will again cycle once.

    3. Repeat step # 2 for each additional transmitter.

    4. Turn the ignition ON to exit the keyless entry transmitter programming mode. Programming is now complete.
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