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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    The thought of a 13" tv flying around the inside scares the hell out of me. I wanted to go to a custom install, but can't afford one yet. So I went the route of a portable DVD player. I just purchased a Panasonic DVD-LV75 with a 7" screen for $ 699.00. You can get other models for less money, but I liked the Panasonic the best. I also bought a CaseLogic portable DVD player case. What I do is bungee the case around the lid of the console, with the DVD player strapped into the case. No more projectile. It also allows me to upgrade into the custom install in the future with a portability option because it has audio and video outputs. For sound through the speakers, you can go with adapters from the unit into the cassette player, or FM modulators.
  • btenbten Posts: 28
    Got my Z71 today! Placed the order with the dealer on Feb. 27th. Came just the way I wanted it except for rear seat audio controls. I found out they are not available if you do not order the cassette. I have the Pewter with charcoal/gray interior. It is a NICE vehicle.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    I found another big plus for the Lift gate today. I went out stocking up for the long weekend festivities, and it was pouring rain when I got done. Went out to load up the YXL, and the lift gate became a roof over my head while I loaded the truck. Try to get a set of barn doors to do that!
  • circutmanncircutmann Posts: 40
    While I have not personally heard any noise on my 2001 YXL 1/2 ton 5.3L, I think I may know what you are hearing. While changing the oil, filter, & doing a grease job on mine last nite, I found that the "idler arm" knuckle & grease fitting on the steering linkage on mine, hits, catches, & drags across the transmission cooler lines when turning to the left. The lines run along the floorboard on the passenger side. It seems only to do this when turning fairly tight such as into a garage, or parking spot as you describe. There is considerable wear on one cooling line on mine at only 7500 miles. I plan to call & take mine into the dealer next week. This has the potential to cause a transmission fluid leak, transmission damage, & possibly a fire if fluid were to spray onto a hot exhaust manifold or catalyst. This appears to be poor routing of the cooler lines. Mine does not appear to be missing any hangers, so I suspect this may be common to all 1/2 ton YXL's & Sub's. I would have yours checked out soon, for this condition. If this is a common problem, it could result in a campaign or recall. I am curious if others have this condition, & if it is a problem on the 3/4 ton YXL w/ the heavier transmission. Mine was built in Mexico on 10/04/00. Let me know if this condition exists on your vehicle. Good Luck, .... Dave
  • I'm compiling a list of owners and/or operators of GMC/Chevy Suburban's that came equipped from the factory with Michelin XW4 tires and experienced rapid or excessive tire wear. If you are one of these effect owner/operators I would like to hear from you. If you know of somebody this has effected pass this message along. My tires wore out under normal urban use @ 21500 miles. The tire was not properly spec. out for the vehical.Orginally this tire was designed for passenger cars, not light trucks. Nobody at GMC or Michelin what's to take ownership of this problem, but it's more like a GMC problem than anybodies.

    Please contract me @ [email protected] with any information.

    Thanks
    Mase
  • cat1iacat1ia Posts: 16
    Can anyone info me on the RPM's of the 5.3L VS 6.0L @65MPH? I would like to know what the differneces are for the engines.
  • Hi All, I ordered my 2001 2500 4x4 YukonXL SLE with the 8.1 engine last Sept.,because of constraints and limited supplies our order finally went through in April and just picked it up on Thursday. It had all options that we ordered except the roof lights.(they even threw in the cassette which we did not have to pay for) Our dealer is going to install the roof lights since we really want them. What I want to know has anyone had these installed without any problems??
    Also I just want to say that this is a awesome truck, awesome pickup, I can't wait till I'm over my break-in period so I can really test it's power.

    Jerry
  • ssmilesssmiles Posts: 35
    Congrats on arrival of your rig. We have had ours for just shy of a month now. Took it on it's first road trip last weekend up to Santa Barbara. With a full load and crew on board, we made 16 mpg. We also flipped 1,000 miles on the odo with not a single problem to date.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    as I mentioned in msg # 1187.. my dealer gave me a 'heads-up' about this program.. see attached pic of the Info packet I received from GMAC today... there's a phone # at the bottom to contact GM for further info...


    having just leased a '01 'bourbon LT 4wd for my wife last month using the Loyalty rebate.. my old 'fishin' truck, my '99 'bourbon LT 4wd with 44K miles on it and with about 9+ months left on my lease may be going bye-bye also.. found out I can use that $1K Loyalty Rebate as many times as you want..so maybe another new 'bourbon??.. who knows.. something to think about..

    Steve..Host.. If this pic is not permitted on this board, you can access it via this link at http://greengrouper.com/ggserver/ChevyLeaseend.jpg


    image

  • rdtaylorrdtaylor Posts: 21
    1. On a cold start there is some soft lifter noise for the first minute or so. It is not a pronounced tap (like I have heard on some older vehicles) but more of a muffled noise. It subsides and is completely gone in a minute or so. Is this normal?

    I too hear a bit of noise when the engine
    is cold - not alarming to me.

    2. Occasionally, the vehicle seems to hesitate for a split second before moving forward or resuming acceleration. This happens on pulling away from a dead stop in 1st gear, and occasionally during an upshift from a higher gear. It happens somewhat infrequently and is fairly subtle. It seems more like a transmission hesitation than an engine hesitation. I cannot tie it to any event or specific set of conditions. Does anyone know what this could be?

    I never notice it from a dead stop, but in
    certain environmental conditions, I notice a
    lag under full-throttle acceleration on the
    shift at ~50-60mph. It seems to happen only
    when the transmission and engine are cold. I
    think that this is the torque management
    electronics limiting torque (because the
    transmission can't handle the full 8.1L
    torque in some cases). All GM trucks cut
    the torque during shifts, but it seems more
    abrupt with the cold 8.1L. I think it is
    probably normal, although they should be
    able to make it better with a software
    change (I consider it a software bug).

    3. Occasionally, the engine sounds rougher or throatier than normal when under load during acceleration. When this happens, it sounds like you can hear all eight cylinders (like you might expect from an older car). Normally, the engine is loud but smoother sounding. It seems like this happens when the ambient temperature is higher. When the engine sounds this way, it seems like I might also have slightly less power.

    This is the viscous cooling fan engaging when
    the engine compartment is overheating.
    Perfectly normal and expected for the large
    engine on hot days. It is amazing how much
    power the fan robs - there is a very noticeable
    power loss.

    4. I am burning some oil. I dropped three-fourths of a quart in 3000 miles. I assume this is still in the normal range. I have a 95 Nissan Maxima that I never put a drop of oil in, so I guess I am spoiled.

    Mine isn't using much oil - unlike my previous
    5.7L that drank it pretty quick. Probably just
    luck of the draw. I think GM considers it
    within spec for 1qt/3000 miles.
  • jamesk4jamesk4 Posts: 55
    Has anyone experienced brake fade or brakes that do not seem to want to stop during a semi-panic stop, as when the light turns yellow and you have to get on the brakes hard to stop? My YXL does not show any greater stopping power reqardless of how hard you press on the brakes. Today, under the above condition, I went over rough payment half way through stopping, when the anti-lock kicked in and let off on the brakes, allowing me to add about 30 feet to my stopping distance. If there had been a vehicle in front of me, I would have bought the farm.

    I believe the front pads have not "set" yet, has anyone else with this experence? Your comments would be appreciated.
  • lambdapro1lambdapro1 Posts: 5
    I had special ordered a Suburban for $26800. It was a pretty good deal. But yesterday, thanks to the gas price scare and dealers with lots of Suburbans on their lots, I bought a Lt. Pewter Suburban with tan interior for $22998 from Friendly Chevrolet in Dallas. It had A/C, cruise, tinted windows, rear defogger, roof rack, seats 9. Spec'ed to tow 7800 pounds with GVWR 7000 pounds. I'm getting the external transmission cooler and rear receiver/wiring added as DIO. There was one that seated six and did not have the roof rack in Fort Worth at Moritz Chevrolet for $21998. Thank you, gas prices!
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    Has anyone figured out how to step on to the 2001 running boards, without slipping or missing them all together? I am stepping out of my 2500 4WD and missing the running board and going to the street. This is a long step that I can make, but I am concerned that I will wear out the edge of the seat, as I did on my Tahoe sliding off the seat. I think the edge is really plastic and only the seat service is leather. Anyhow, when it wears, the surface starts to crack and look like the devil. I can twist my foot if I am conscious of my step down and get it on the running board, but really its to small to reach comfortable. Anyone solve the problem short of replacing the running boards?

    I have tried three times to have my speedometer adjusted to the change in tires from 245's to 265/75/16's. The speedometer has remained, about 4% fast at 70 MPH. Now I'm told that this is normal range of error. Must have really been off with my old tires. Is it possible to get the correct speed reading with the on-board computer. I detailed the problem in an mail to Chev/GM web site. Just got referred to the service line and told to use the phone. So much for the site's request to "tell us about your new Chev"!! Any comments? Skipjack 2
  • tuckpanatuckpana Posts: 20
    Does anyone know of a good dealer in these markets for a Yukon XL. Thanks Tuckpana
  • naitovenaitove Posts: 6
    In looking at window stickers on 2001 Suburbans I have seen the LT option priced at $11710, 11942, 11975, and 12202. The only difference I could see was that the $12202 included Auto Climate Control which I thought was part of the LT group(unless you get a sunroof). Any explanations. Also, I have seen a Dealer Cash Incentive of $750 in the Northeast, expiring on 5/31/01. Anyone know anything about this? The dealer sure says he doesn't know about it. Finally, I have a 92 Suburban which I bought used. Do I still qualify for the $1000 loyalty rebate?
    John Naitove
  • naitovenaitove Posts: 6
    Two more questions. If you've driven a 2001 Autoride Suburban how does it feel over bumpy roads compared to Premium ride? Also, My wife and I drove a Yukon XL (probably with Premium Ride) last month and 2 Suburbans w/ Premium ride yesterday. We both remembered the Yukon XL as having a better ride and more direct (Less center play) in the steering. Are we imagining this?
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    I haven't experienced it yet, but expect to at some point, based on the postings on the pacific audio forum ( http://www.pacific-audio.com/performance/discussion.html ). Apparently, a lot of people on this forum has experienced this, the majority being p/u owners, but some SUV owners also. Some have filed complaints with GM, but to no avail. Most believe that it is a design flaw, to the extent where some are seriously considering disabling the ABS, since the dealers aren't fixing it, or even admitting there's a problem. I know of at least one person who has literally rolled into the car in front of him at a light. The only thing that I can suggest, is that when it happens, let off the brakes and step on it again (a lot of good that will do in a panic situation, though). Bring it in to the dealer and have them look at it. After they report that it's working as designed, file a complaint as a matter if record, that way if you get into a serious accident, there's a paper trail. Probably not what you want to hear, but it's what I've heard.
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Posts: 39
    I've missed my running boards the first couple of weeks that I had my YXL. Since then, I've learned to deliberately step and catch the running board with the heel of my foot, then pivot, never letting go of the steering wheel until I'm down on the ground. I agree that the boards are too narrow, but since I have them, I'm not going to replace them. The only time I have trouble with this technique is with a specific pair of running shoes where I have very little feeling in the heel area. I haven't tried them with my cowboy boots, yet, either. Also, this may be a little tough for the women when they have heels on.
  • moss6moss6 Posts: 12
    Just arrived home from 1,000 mile trip pulling 7800lb TT with 01 yukon xl 6.0 3.93 final drive. Miles per gal. avg. 6.75 for the trip. Trip was from the flat lands of west Texas to the mountains of northern NM.. in the Taos/Mora area. Many of the grades that the old 97' 350 would pull in 3rd required 1st gear with the 6.0. Another observation about the 6.0 that surprised me was the fact that even though you had to run in 2nd gear in many instances in order to keep up with the traffic flow the 6.0 did not blow up at sustained 5,000rpm intervals. This is not what I expected from a 3/4 ton rated truck but maybe GM designed it to operate at near redline in order to make enough power to pull a load. Just the same, not exactly a relaxing experience. Any input from anyone with similar experiences would be greatly appreciated. I cannot believe that GM would be able to market a truck with a 3/4 ton rating that is far less capable of pulling a load than an older truck with a lighter rating.
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    I know that it is new, but you should still consider putting in a 4.10 rear end. This will help on the towing. That Yukon XL with the 3.73 and 6.0L is rated 8800 pounds. With the 4.10 it is rated for 9800 pounds.
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    I assume that you have a 4.10 rear end with upgrade 245 to 265 tires to get to the 3.93 rear end. I have the same arrangement. I have not pulled my 8000 LB boat in any kind of hilly country, but pulling in flat land Florida, I am disappointed in the 6.0 performance. I can compare it to my 97 Tahoe, 350 with a 3.42 rear end and 235 tires. In third gear, I had good power and much better gas consumption pulling the same boat and not pulling. I think the gas consumption with the 6.0, around town not pulling, is awful. About 6 to 7 MPG. The engine seems to over rev just to get moving, not pulling and going up the ramp with a boat, really turning up the RPM's it sounds like it won't make it. The truck feels secure, and handles the boat well under way better than the 1/2 ton Tahoe. Part of my problem was the change from 245 to 265 tires, that should be in the range of this power train. I could feel a substantial loss of power in overdrive, which I would like to be in while towing, on flat land anyhow. Before the tire change, I was staying in OD over most overpasses, but now it jumps back to drive much quicker. All of this is compounded by not being able to get into overdrive till the speedometer is up to 55 MPH. I debated on a 3.73 rear end, when shopping for the truck. Thank God I didn't go that route, or I would have been in trouble. The speedometer error is 4 % low, so I have to get it up to GPS 57.5 in order to get back into overdrive, sometimes hard to do in 2 lane traffic. Like you say, the engine is performing under towing conditions, but at high RPM's and sucking up the gas. It seems strange to me that with a computer on board, that a 4 % error would be acceptable on a transmission that shifts precisely at 55 MPH. I don't think the service people understand how to adjust the speedometer with the Tech 2 device. (three attempts and no change in the error at all.) I assume you have a 3/4 ton as this is the only way to get the 6.0 engine. My friends Diesel Excursion is looking better all the time. Cost is less, mileage much better and plenty of room. Skipjack 2
  • subliminalsubliminal Posts: 29
    Did I read correctly? You are getting 6 - 7 mpg around town while NOT towing?

    If this is true, I think you have a serious problem. I am getting 13 - 14 around town in mine. 2000 K2500 3.73/6.0 litre 265/75/16 tires.

    Subliminal
  • rng2001rng2001 Posts: 1
    Has anyone experienced alignment problem with a suburban. My 1999 Suburban LT 2WD has continual problems with the alignment. It was slight problem and continued to worsen. I have the alignment done by dealship (I have to pay since the warranty only covered til 7000 miles) at 16,000 miles. At 21,000 miles, my other front tire has the outside track worn out again. I was told that I have to pay for alignment again if I bring the car back to the dealership. There is no warranty on alignment at all. Anyone has similar problems? I would like to hear and report to Chevrolet. By the way, Chevrolet's customer service was no help at all. They stick by the rule and tell me to check my owners's manual. What a difference in customer service as compared to other foreign car manufacturers such as Acura, Honda, etc.

    Rick
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    I am going that route now. My email to "Customer assistance" reguarding the speeometer error was refered back to me with the advice that I should call "customer assistance". After a long wait for a human voice, I was told that I would have to go back to the dealer. (been back three times) Finally told to go to the web site and send an email to "power train" and it would go to tech assistance, the only way. I couldn't find "power train" on the GM site, so I addressed an email that way. Now I will wait and see if it makes it or bounces back. Skipjack 2
  • chris193chris193 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 YUKON XL, 4WD with 16,000 miles. The driver side mirror and the passenger seat shake significantly at highway speed. The dealer replaced the tires twice - Firestone. Nevertheless, the problem has not gone away. Has anybody experienced the same? Any recommendations?

    Thanks
  • moss6moss6 Posts: 12
    Skipjack,
    Yes the tires are the 265's and the gearing is 4.10. As for the power issue I am now wondering if one of the engine's main problems aside from the computer program is the camshaft. I'll bet that GM has a stick that would really give it some low end pull but the consumer will never be able go get one. An idea that warrents futher research but where do you go. Any ideas welcome!!
    Also about the tire change I had to go to the hypertech programmer to make the change.
    Sublimital,
    The best milage I have gotten in town not towing was 10mpg and the best on the road not towing was 13.5.
  • warzonectxwarzonectx Posts: 26
    how fast do the Chevy Suburban go. can the Cruise Control hold the speed going up hill. email me is you have enny info or post it. my email is [email protected]
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    I just returned from a 1200 mile trip to the WVa mountains from Ga. I have a '01 Suburban, 2500 LT 6.0, 3.73 rear, upgraded 265x70R16 Michelin tires (came with 245's). My best mpg all town is 9.9 before the trip, on the trip, all road mileage was 14.89, in the mtns was 13.2, and the return leg was 14.96. This is avg speed of 65 mph on the all road leg with a/c on auto, 800 lbs load (no trailer). I did NOT buy this vehicle for its gas mileage (I keep telling myself). Gas price for regular in Ga is $1.39, WVa is $1.77, Ky is $1.63. Keep on trucking.
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    One problem with the 6.0 2500 is that you have 10 or 15% more hp and torque, but the vehicle is 10% heavier, so you don't get much more. If I get a 3/4 ton in the future, I will be looking at the 8.1 or a future Duramax.

    If you have the Hypertech, you might consider moving up to a 4.3 or ? rear end. Cheapest way to increase torque to the rubber. I think that the 265s are a very good idea if you are towing a lot. Margin is always valuable.
  • moznickmoznick Posts: 3
    I'm new to this board, and this question may have been previously asked and answered (sorry), but my question is, is there a significant difference on the road between the Z-71 suspension and the suspension on the LT? I recognize there are differences on paper, and the Z71 should be more adept at off road(where I'm not going) so I just wonder what the experience of others is. Thanks.
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