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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    My 95 Burb just had new U Joint at 85K in December. It started howling pretty good at highway speeds

  • edmarjoedmarjo Posts: 1

    I've been lurking for a while. Seems to me that you guys must be a good group of people w/ good taste in vehicles. My name is Edwin, I am from Southern California, and I am the proud owner of a new z71 Suburban.
    We brought home our new Suburban on January 16th. The whole family has really been enjoying it. The wife, three kids, and sometimes the two Golden Retrievers can hardly wait for the weekend, so we can get out and enjoy a long drive. Just topped 2000 miles this weekend. So far, no problems.
    I'd like to know if anyone out there has purchased an after market wood dash kit for your SUV? I saw a 2002 XL Denalli and the standard wood trim in the Denalli sure was pretty. Any recommendations on buying or installing? Can anyone out there help me find a quality kit at a reasonable price? Thanks in advance. Edwin
  • (joshuatree) is the best I have found. I added the burled walnut to my tan leather forest green z-71 last year just after i got it. Everyone compliments the wood trim--including Denali and Escalade owners. It is truly a good value and the highest quality out if I could get the bacl-up lights in the roof rack that it was supposed to have...Regards, Charles
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Welcome aboard, Edwin! It's good to see you here and congrats on the new Suburban!

    We're looking forward to hearing a lot more from you.

  • I just purchased a used 2000 Suburban. The previous owner had broken the antenna. It requires a new base also. The wire lead in for the antenna goes behind the dash somewhere and connects with the radio. Does anyone know the easiest way to access this connection? The new base wire isn't long enough to reach the radio so I know there is an intermediate connection. I was hoping that I could just screw in a new antenna, but now I need some help?!


  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    A newswire reporter is looking for anyone who has recently purchased a vehicle and received interest-free financing or some other special deal. If you are eligible and interested in participating, please send your contact info to [email protected] by Wednesday, March 13.

    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    Congrats!?! From you? I knew it, a closet full size SUV lover, your secret is safe w/us.

    The other forum won't have anywhere near the same meaning any longer.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Shhhh!! DO NOT ... repeat ... DO NOT tell HW about this! ;-)

  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    But agree with him or not, he is a reasonably bright fellow, and may discover you anyway. Now would be a good time to start the excuse development -- Does li-s have a program for that?

    I know you are trying to be unbiased, and you move around fast from topic to topic, but what is really behind the tidester facade with respect to SUVs in general?
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    jaws: I keep a close eye on tidester. You see...I know deep down he's a closet conservative, republican looking for his first chance to drive up the driveway in a spankin' new Suburban. There's a twelve step program to move him out of the anti-suvers ranks. He's making good progress, but he's still got a ways to go:)
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Okay - you guys are on to me now!

    I am neither a conservative republican nor a liberal democrat and I generally do not discuss my personal political views on these boards. However, in the interest of making some discussions more interesting, I will adopt (and I use that term VERY loosely!) the minority position. And, yes, that is often a MAJOR challenge!

    In any case, everyone is invited to join in the lively discussions in the Social Issues (in News & Views) and "I don't like SUvs...." (right here in SUVs!) forums.

  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    I have about $700 buring ahole in my pocket ok not really). My wife and I (despite all the banter on some other forums) want to buy some kind of system so the kids won't make us go ballistic on long trips. I don't want to place on (what seems a dead forum) the mobile/tv/vcp as I don't think anyone will see it.

    Tidester or Steve, if you have a better location please feel free to move or link this.

    Anyway, it seems we have 4 options --- all have 1 caveat: NO VIDEO TAPES. TAPES + HEAT + KIDS = NO VIDEO TAPES.

    Having said that. Here is what we have discussed.

    1. Built in flip down -- generally nicest set-up, but small screen very costly for whole system, least verstatile.

    2. Portable DVD player (LCD screen). Really small screen -- untested for reliability.

    3. Notebook computer -- big screen really versatile, can do games, DVDs, work, use at location (Not only in the car), etc. Expensive (but prices always falling -- saw one today $699 incl rebate Best Buy.

    4. Portable Tv w/DVD player builtin. bigger screen ~~ 13" real tv, versatile, cheapest option. BUt takes up much space in the Suburban. By they eay, saw an RCA 20" w/.builtin DVD player at Costco for about $400 (or so?), If we only had a stretch Suburban it'd be a deal. And on that note I saw a mega stretch Hummer here (DC area) this thing was as long as a school bus. Amazing. Shhhh that might be fodder for the other site/side.

    If you have one of these or any opinions please supply to me here or via email.

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059

    You might want to try "Aftermarket & Accessories" though the traffic there is fairly light.

    Meanwhile,let's see if anyone else here can offer some advice!

  • grk235grk235 Posts: 17
    I use my Dell 8100 Inspiron notebook for the purpose of playing dvds for the kids on the road. The notebook fits on top of its carrying case on the floor between the front and rear seats. When the screen is opened, the notebook is wedged between the two front seat backs and is very stable. It seems to work perfectly well and has the versatility of a full feature computer. I have yet to discover the downside to this arrangement.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    The only downside I can see is the possibility that the laptop's hard disk might be adversely affected by the jostling and bumping.

  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    But if we went this route I had planned to place the computer on a say 1/2 think rubber pad for non-slip, but the shock would help too.

    Tides you have not been in a re-designed Suburban? On road and mild off road (see I really have -- dirt light mud etc), it is smooth as silk.

    Have some fun take a test drive, but you were warned.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    jaw, have not been in a re-designed Suburban?

    No, I have not. I only raised the point as a possibility but am glad to hear the Suburban is so smooth. I tend to be overprotective of my own laptop!

  • ndared1ndared1 Posts: 21
    My opinion; Why don't you engage your kids in conversation with yourself on long trips. You could converse with them about all the attractions going by, vehicle identifications, highway supersturctures, various forms of people either passing you or you passing them. Most adults seem to ignore the importance of communciation with children and zone them out with stupid electronic toys and games. Add some depth to their life and enjoy the precious times.
    By the way sock away the $800 for college and in 18 years it might cover first semester tuition.
    No offense meant just wish more folks would talk to their children more often.
  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    We are more than covered in this regard. I am the soccer coach and my wife the Brownie Leader. When was the last time you made a 10 to 12 hour trip with 3 and 7 year olds?

    We do this about 4 times a year, throw in the 20 or so trips to the in laws and all the other trips over say 2.5 hours and you'd know -- as well as I that about 1/2 (or less) is spent actually talking -- with kids this age. The rest (if it exists) is spent as the parents poke and prod for artificial communication.

    So a ~~ diversion ~~ for a period of time, perhaps 4 to 5 hours over each drive is a reasonable tradeoff. There is no NONE intent to use this as a babysitter nor for short trips to stores, etc.

    Hope this better clears thing up.

    The education is not an issue at this time, that does not mean that it may not become one, but financially it is presently not a issue.
  • cknottcknott Posts: 61
    For those who own 3/4 ton XL's and Sub's or simply have a lot of knowledge in this area:

    Do you have any regrets in your purchase of a 3/4 ton if you were also considering the 1/2 ton prior to your purchase?

    If one was considering and comparing the following and needed to tow 6,000 lbs 4-6 times a year, what would you choose?

    1/2 ton, 4wd, 5.3 L, 4.10 gears
    3/4 ton, 4wd, 6.0 L, 3.73 gears
    3/4 ton, 4wd, 6.0 L, 4.10 gears
    3/4 ton, 4wd, 8.1 L, 3.73 gears

    I am aware that all of these vehicles are documented as "capable" of towing this weight and I am aware that the 1/2 ton is on coils and the 3/4 ton is on leaf springs, but what are the other technical advantages to the above alternatives such as axles? Brake Rotors, Transmissions? Frame? Are there any differences in components (powertrain) between the 6.0 L and the 8.1 L?

    Thanks in advance for any comments.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    cknott: I don't think you'd go wrong with any of the configurations you're considering. jmilberg may have more specifics on the differences, however here are a few of the differences between the 3/4 ton and 1/2 ton.

    As you stated you'll have coil spring + shocks in the 1/2 ton and leaf springs + shocks in the 3/4 ton. The 1/2 ton has 6 lug wheels and the 3/4 ton has 8 lug wheels. You'll get a heavier duty transmission in the 3/4 ton. Unfortunately you'll lose the self-leveling feature in the 3/4 ton as its only available in the 1/2 ton chassis.

    Depending on your wallet another alternative is the Denali XL which will give you the 6.0L in a 1/2 ton chassis. You get the power, tow rating, more comfortable rear suspension and alot of luxury features that you may or may not be looking for.

    I owned 2 3/4 ton Subs and recently traded "down" to the 1/2 ton Denali for the comfort, features and power it offers. I too tow a 6000lb package and could not be happier with my decision however I have not really compared the towing capabilities of the new 3/4 ton chassis. My guess is from the posts here that the 3/4 ton with an 8.1L engine is an awesome tow vehicle, although based on your described needs it might be more than you really need given the weight and frequency of towing involved.
  • chloeannchloeann Posts: 2
    Has anyone experienced cold start engine knocking with 6.0L engine. I'm having my oil changed at a GMC garage so I would think they are using the right oil and filters. Someone thought there might be a recall on some of these engines? I only have 10,000 miles on it, so its a little early for lifter noise. Any help would be appreciated
  • lucnoellucnoel Posts: 31
    They are 2 extra diferences betwwen the 8.1 and the 6.

    Rear end
    6 has a semi-floating 9.5 gear rear axle
    8.1 has a FULL floater 10.5 gear rear axle

    Front bumper

    The 8.1 has 1 opening on each side a the licence plate, in the chrome bumper part may be 8 by 4 inch for extra cooling.

    Luc.2001 Xl.3/4 ton 8.1 , 4.10 gears.
  • ndared1ndared1 Posts: 21
    I yield to your rebuttal! With that out of the way, I would choose a dvd player with MP3 audio capability that would allow movies and a lot of music on one CD if you of course burn your own.

    I agree with heatwave3 any of your choices that you have listed would easily do the job with 6000 pounds load. I myself had the 8.1w/4.10 and downsized to the 5.3w/3.73 for economy and comfort. I have a 7200 pound load and handle a lot of mountains in AZ and NM. True the 5.3 is challenged on the upgrades but its only a couple of minutes and the rest of its life is great on mileage (18+) compared to mileage (11+) on my old 8.1 with 4.10. The 3/4 ton will stop a little shorter for the same speed. But if you're only using it 6 or 7 times a year for towing go easy on your wallet.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    One other difference between the 3/4 and 1/2 ton is the transmission gearing. The 6.0 will have better acceleration off the line in a Denali than a 3/4 ton because the Denali has the 1/2 ton transmission gearing. It also has many of the heavy duty items from the 3/4 ton (heavier duty trans, engine oil cooler, larger radiator, etc).
  • campo57campo57 Posts: 94
    What you are hearing is something called Piston Slap. Check out this website and it will give you all the information you need to know.


  • One other small difference is that the 3/4 ton & the Denali each include a transmission temperature gauge in the instrument cluster, that the 1/2 ton does not. You can easily upgrade the 1/2 ton to the 3/4 instrument cluster w/ the trans gauge as I & many others have done at little cost. I agree w/ "ndared1" that any of the choices will easily handle the 6000 # load. I also tow a 7000+ #, 31 ft trailer w/ the 5.3L, 4WD, 3.73 gear combo to & through the Adirondek Mts. of NY without any problem. I add an air dam strapped to the roof mounted luggage rack of the Yukon XL, when towing to help the areo-dynamics of the trailer's flat front. The gas mileage when towing even at 70-80 MPH is 10-10.5, solo mileage is 14-18 on average (city / highway). I have no regrets w/ the 1/2 ton combo. Dave
  • I purchased a new 2002 Yukon a week ago and it came standard with the Firestone Wilderness LE tires which are 16". If I want to upgrade later to larger tires and rims, say a set of Michelin Pilots that are 18"...what do I need to do with regard to the speedometer or other hardware?
  • alampertalampert Posts: 1
    After 90,000 well-maintained miles (I only use Mobile 1 Synthetic oil, by the way), my '97 GMC Suburban 'threw a rod' while I was on vacation with my family in Colorado.

    $4,000 later, the tech who replaced my motor speculated that a faulty intake gasket might have caused the demise of the motor. He said that the gasket is a known problem with these motors.

    Has anyone experienced the same problem with the intake gasket leaking?

    I'm reluctant, frankly, to buy another XL/Suburban until I can reach a comfort level with the reasons behind this engine failure!!
  • jaw2000jaw2000 Posts: 133
    But the 2000 and newer engines are 5.3s std engine, I assume yours was a 5.7? If so they are not the same so that ought to be 1 difference.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Can you describe in detail what was happening with the truck right before the engine took a crap? I am curious to see if the engine gave any warning signs before it's self destruction.

    I have heard of SOME not all of the 5.7 L engines having a problem with the intake gasket leaking causing only vacuum leaks. As you probably know vacuum leaks seldom cause any problem in the lower end of the engine, driveability and fuel economy yes, thrown rods no way. The only other commonly know problem with the intake is the heater hose connection near the fire wall, the quick connector corrodes and will develop a leak over time. An intake manifold leaking antifreeze is fairly uncommon, but still a possibility in ANY engine, NOT just a GM product.

    Before the engine went south were you losing antifreeze? If so do you know where it was going? My GUESS, and this is only a guess is you developed a head gasket leak from the water jacket into the lifter valley, or into a cylinder. If the coolant got into the cylinder it would burn off leaving a thick white smoke trail behind you, it could in theory cause the piston to stick in the block breaking the connecting rod and throwing it through the block. If the coolant got into the oil pan it would suspend the oil above the oil pump pick up circulating only "water" instead of oil. As we all know water in not a good lubricant at all. Now that can seize up an engine, but you would know it was coming, it wouldn't just happen out of no where. Throwing a rod is a really violent act, and it usually entails a lot of noise before the occurance. The tech should have been able to give you an exact reason for the failure, a leaking head or intake gasket will leave evidence of that failure, not speculation.

    Did you have a bunch of oil and coolant leaking from under the truck when the engine blew? Did you see the engine block after removal, are you sure it was from your truck? If you answered no to any of these questions you should check your engine block for the VIN number, it's usually on the engine right in front of the head on a flat surface, it could be on wither the right or left side of the engine, front or back. If you are unsure take it to the dealer and see if the numbers are there an if they match your trucks VIN number you got hosed. If the guy said he re built your engine, he's lying about something, a thrown rod scraps the block, and it can't be saved no matter what the guy tries to do. I am not trying to insinuate that you don't know what was going on with your truck, but more concerned that you didn't get taken for a ride by a mechanic that sees an out of state stranded family and wants to capitalize on it to the full extent of his "power." I have heard of many of these schemes before all similar to yours.

    Now to re-assure you the new gen Suburbans and Yukon XLs have the next gen engines also. Based on the Corvette/Camero/Firebird engines. Base engine is the 5.3L, and the 3/4 ton gets the 6.0L as a base engine with an optional 8.1L engine that is based on the old but proven 454 big block. I have a 3/4 ton Yukon XL with the 6.0L and am nothing but pleased with it, I would recommend it to anyone without a blink of an eye.

    With 90K on the body and a fresh heart, why would you want to get rid of your current rig? It's good for at least another 100K miles. Unless the body is messed up, all rusty, or you need a ton of suspension work done. $4000 is a lot cheaper than a new truck payment.
  • everharteverhart Posts: 59
    My 94 K1500 -5.7 had a leaking intake gasket. Antifreeze was dripping down the front of the engine behind the alt. It was a drop or 2 each time I stopped so when it took it in for service I was pleased they covered it under warranty,I had 48,000 miles & 4 yrs. 1- month old. They covered it under the emissions warranty coverage.
  • cknottcknott Posts: 61
    Thanks for all the responses so far considering 1/2 ton vs 3/4 selection.

    Does anybody have the scoop on 2003/2004 MY changes for the Suburban and Yukon XL?

    Any comments are welcome.
  • My neighbor's 97 5.7L Chevy pick-up w/ 102K miles, had the intake gasket fail when he was hunting about 250 miles from home. He first noticed coolant leaking from near the rear of the engine when it was idling. The temperature gage was running near hot, & he felt that the route cause might have been a faulty thermostat.

    No GM dealer nearby, so he took it into a Firestone dealer, who diagnosed the intake gasket failure. He left the truck, charged the repairs, picked it up after shop hours, & started home. After about a 100 miles, he started hearing strange noises, stopped several times, but could not find anything wrong. Within the next 10 miles, the engine was knocking, & loosing power, until it quit.

    He had it towed home to a trustworthy neighborhood garage. He contacted the Firestone dealer & Firestone's insurance carrier sent a rep who pulled the pan & found that the Firestone mechanic never changed the oil, after the intake manifold gasket repair, & there was at least a quart of coolant at the bottom of the pan, that caused the front (2) main bearings to fail, & tore up the crank.

    Firestone picked up the total $4,000 cost to replace the engine w/ a factory rebuilt Jasper engine. This is one time when Firestone came through & deserves praise. My neighbor was totally satisfied with this settlement, & now feels that he is good for at least 100,000 more miles. Dave
  • adplusoneadplusone Posts: 66
    If you go to a 286/60/18 the diameter is within 3% of the no adjustment to speedo is needed. I have run (on the second set) of the Michelin Pilot in this size....great tire....low road noise, great in the wet! Makes my Burb ride and handle a 1000% better than stock....
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    .... my previous was a '99 Subn 4wd 1500 bought (leased) new.. after about a few thousand miles.. I heard and experienced a 'klunking sound' coming from the rear end from a standing start...

    I brought it in to my Chevy dealer for service.. there was a Service Bulletin on it.. all they were directed to do was to change the differential fluid in the rear end... it worked.. never had another problem with it .. I turned it in after 48K +miles and now have a 2001 Z71....along with my wife's 2001 Subn LT

    hope this helps out..
  • jdscjdsc Posts: 2
    Re: msg 2078 by Circuitman,
    I was interested in your comments about installing the 3/4 ton transmission temp gauge in the 1/2 ton. You said it was minimal how much. Did you do it yourself or have the dealer do it. If you did it yourself, where did you put the temp sender, etc. Thanks

    By the way, for any ones information, I have a 2002 Yukon XL, 1500, SLT with the autoride. That is the way to go. The ride is almost as nice as my wifes Acura 3.2TL. I was amazed, and am still delighted with the ride. I also put the 17" Denali wheels and tires on it and that is a great way to improve the looks and handling. It gives you a larger/wider wheel(17x7.5" vs.16x7"), better looks, and most importantly, you wind up with Michelin tires instead of Firestone. Though, I have to admit, the factory Firestones did offer a good, smooth, ride.

    If you are interested in the Denali wheel/tire combo, check E-Bay, or some of your local tire shops. Or, the next time you see a Denali with aftermarket wheels, ask him/her if they still have the originals......thats how I found mine.
  • renardorenardo Posts: 3
    I am going to need a new SUV sometime before the end of June. I am leaning towards a 2002 Z71. I was wondering if anyone knows when the 2003 models would be out - if they are out in July I would do without until that time. If they aren't going to be out until fall, I will probably have to get a 2002.

    Of course, if the 2003 model doesn't change much (I don't think I would want to pay big $$ for the 4-wheel steering), maybe it doesn't really matter. That is the only real change I have heard about - if anyone has more details, please share them!

    Thanks for any input!!

  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    The new models should be hitting dealer lots at the end of July early August, but not sure about the Z-71. The Z-71 also rides much stiffer than the regular suspension, so you might want to take one out for a ride first before you decide that's what you want.

    There are a lot of changes on the interior of the truck.
    1 New seat stitching design, and side panels
    2 Radio, from the triplets
    3 Steering wheel w/radio controls from the triplets
    4 Separate heat controls for the back and bottom
    5 Dual climate controls for front
    6 DVD available
    7 Window switches and auto down pass side window
    8 XM radio available
    9 New console10 On Star moves to rear view mirror
    11 Driver info center under shifter display, in addition to the message center.
    12 Bose Stereo available in all models
  • I am considering a new 02 or 03 XL purchase, which I will use to tow my 7,000 lb 30 ft camper. I am planning on getting the 8100 engine with a 3.73 rear end and 2WD. I currently own a '92 Suburban with a 350 and 4.10 gears. It is OK on the flats, but slows down going up hills. It too is a 2WD vehicle. Any comments on my choice of engine, rear end ratio and 2WD? Who else is towing a similar trailer and what do you have?
  • Does anyone have experience with a auxilliary transmission add-on from Gear Vendors, a Calif. firm that specializes in truck and race car aux. transmissions, which turn your 4-Speed auto. into a 8 speed?
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    rides much stiffer?
  • Looking for mileage differences between 5.3 and 6.0 engines with 3.73 gears and 4.10 gears in Suburban/YXL. I just test drove a 6.0 with 4.10 gears and liked the grunt in OD vs 5.3 in exact same truck (didn't have any burbs on the lot). Burb with 3.73 gear and 5.3 Engine seemed to fall on its face in OD. Doesn't seem like it would be able to pull anything in OD. I live in Nevada where the highway grades are significant with many miles of flat-land between. I pull enough to demand a vehicle that can do it with grace but still need the economy due to many "empty" soccer-mom miles.
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    Any idea if a straight 6 may be available, if not in a burb, how about in a Tahoe. What rear ends?
    Have you heard if four wheel steering will be available in burb and Tahoes.
    What would likely be the earliest date to special order a 03?
  • We originally had some Netscape compatibility problems and have tweaked the site significantly in the lat week. We now have a .wav file where you can listen to the slap. If you have the dreaded GM PISTON SLAP, Come join us!
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    No straight six available.

    4 wheel steering available on Yukon XL/Suburban 1/2 and 3/4 ton models, but not sure when they will hit the dealers, or the option price. I figure it to be around $2500-$2800. No word on 4WS on Yukon/Tahoe.

    Earliest date to place an order is usually in late April early July, it depends on when GM rolls out the pricing and new option pkgs for the '03 models, they made big changes on the dash and radio options, plus the 4WS, so it could be late July for pricing on the new options.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    In the Burbs and Tahoes when you compare the Z-71 suspension to the premium ride suspension it is much stiffer/bouncier because they stiffened up the spring rates for "off road" use. There is also a towing suspension, and that is just stiffer rear springs. If you have some time to kill go up to a dealer that has a premium susp., towing susp., Z-71 susp., and Auto Ride susp. Then I know you will be able to tell the difference between all the different suspension packages. I did it and that's how I ended up getting Auto Ride on my 3/4 ton. They don't offer Z-71 on the 3/4 ton but they do offer the others, and I drove them all back to back. Dealer wasn't to happy because I was taking up his time, but he was really happy when the order for my $46,000 truck hit his desk! You drive a P/U and the ride from Z-71 to a regular 4 X 4 is not that different, but wit the suv it does make a big difference.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    The stiff ride seems more controlled and less "floaty".

    What shocks do the Z71 burbs and tahoes come with?

    Trucks come with tennecos and i replaced them with bilsteins. Really made a HUGE difference in ride
  • ted44ted44 Posts: 10
    Did you do it yourself or have the dealer install it? I would like to get one on my 1/2 ton Burb.
    Is it difficult getting into the instrument panel to position the gauge? Does the 1/2 ton transmission have a connection point for a temp sensor? And... last but not least, how much does it cost? Thanks for your help.
  • campo57campo57 Posts: 94

    The easiest way to get the temp gauge would be to buy a 2500, Denali or Escalade instument panel and swap it out for the one in the truck. All of these have the trans temp gauge in them and are for all intents and purposes a plug and play. The only extra step you need to take is to have the new panel programmed with your mileage and hours or get the odometer sticker for the door and use that. The panels run from around $180 - $250.

    If you check this board, there are many posts with the part numbers for the different panels and for the sticker.

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