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Ken
I've been lurking for a while. Seems to me that you guys must be a good group of people w/ good taste in vehicles. My name is Edwin, I am from Southern California, and I am the proud owner of a new z71 Suburban.
We brought home our new Suburban on January 16th. The whole family has really been enjoying it. The wife, three kids, and sometimes the two Golden Retrievers can hardly wait for the weekend, so we can get out and enjoy a long drive. Just topped 2000 miles this weekend. So far, no problems.
I'd like to know if anyone out there has purchased an after market wood dash kit for your SUV? I saw a 2002 XL Denalli and the standard wood trim in the Denalli sure was pretty. Any recommendations on buying or installing? Can anyone out there help me find a quality kit at a reasonable price? Thanks in advance. Edwin
We're looking forward to hearing a lot more from you.
tidester
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SUVs
Thanks.
johnny
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
The other forum won't have anywhere near the same meaning any longer.
tidester
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SUVs
I know you are trying to be unbiased, and you move around fast from topic to topic, but what is really behind the tidester facade with respect to SUVs in general?
I am neither a conservative republican nor a liberal democrat and I generally do not discuss my personal political views on these boards. However, in the interest of making some discussions more interesting, I will adopt (and I use that term VERY loosely!) the minority position. And, yes, that is often a MAJOR challenge!
In any case, everyone is invited to join in the lively discussions in the Social Issues (in News & Views) and "I don't like SUvs...." (right here in SUVs!) forums.
tidester
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Tidester or Steve, if you have a better location please feel free to move or link this.
Anyway, it seems we have 4 options --- all have 1 caveat: NO VIDEO TAPES. TAPES + HEAT + KIDS = NO VIDEO TAPES.
Having said that. Here is what we have discussed.
1. Built in flip down -- generally nicest set-up, but small screen very costly for whole system, least verstatile.
2. Portable DVD player (LCD screen). Really small screen -- untested for reliability.
3. Notebook computer -- big screen really versatile, can do games, DVDs, work, use at location (Not only in the car), etc. Expensive (but prices always falling -- saw one today $699 incl rebate Best Buy.
4. Portable Tv w/DVD player builtin. bigger screen ~~ 13" real tv, versatile, cheapest option. BUt takes up much space in the Suburban. By they eay, saw an RCA 20" w/.builtin DVD player at Costco for about $400 (or so?), If we only had a stretch Suburban it'd be a deal. And on that note I saw a mega stretch Hummer here (DC area) this thing was as long as a school bus. Amazing. Shhhh that might be fodder for the other site/side.
If you have one of these or any opinions please supply to me here or via email.
Thanks
JAW
You might want to try "Aftermarket & Accessories" though the traffic there is fairly light.
Meanwhile,let's see if anyone else here can offer some advice!
tidester
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tidester
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Tides you have not been in a re-designed Suburban? On road and mild off road (see I really have -- dirt light mud etc), it is smooth as silk.
Have some fun take a test drive, but you were warned.
...you have not been in a re-designed Suburban?
No, I have not. I only raised the point as a possibility but am glad to hear the Suburban is so smooth. I tend to be overprotective of my own laptop!
tidester
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SUVs
My opinion; Why don't you engage your kids in conversation with yourself on long trips. You could converse with them about all the attractions going by, vehicle identifications, highway supersturctures, various forms of people either passing you or you passing them. Most adults seem to ignore the importance of communciation with children and zone them out with stupid electronic toys and games. Add some depth to their life and enjoy the precious times.
By the way sock away the $800 for college and in 18 years it might cover first semester tuition.
No offense meant just wish more folks would talk to their children more often.
ndared1
We do this about 4 times a year, throw in the 20 or so trips to the in laws and all the other trips over say 2.5 hours and you'd know -- as well as I that about 1/2 (or less) is spent actually talking -- with kids this age. The rest (if it exists) is spent as the parents poke and prod for artificial communication.
So a ~~ diversion ~~ for a period of time, perhaps 4 to 5 hours over each drive is a reasonable tradeoff. There is no NONE intent to use this as a babysitter nor for short trips to stores, etc.
Hope this better clears thing up.
The education is not an issue at this time, that does not mean that it may not become one, but financially it is presently not a issue.
Do you have any regrets in your purchase of a 3/4 ton if you were also considering the 1/2 ton prior to your purchase?
If one was considering and comparing the following and needed to tow 6,000 lbs 4-6 times a year, what would you choose?
1/2 ton, 4wd, 5.3 L, 4.10 gears
3/4 ton, 4wd, 6.0 L, 3.73 gears
3/4 ton, 4wd, 6.0 L, 4.10 gears
3/4 ton, 4wd, 8.1 L, 3.73 gears
I am aware that all of these vehicles are documented as "capable" of towing this weight and I am aware that the 1/2 ton is on coils and the 3/4 ton is on leaf springs, but what are the other technical advantages to the above alternatives such as axles? Brake Rotors, Transmissions? Frame? Are there any differences in components (powertrain) between the 6.0 L and the 8.1 L?
Thanks in advance for any comments.
As you stated you'll have coil spring + shocks in the 1/2 ton and leaf springs + shocks in the 3/4 ton. The 1/2 ton has 6 lug wheels and the 3/4 ton has 8 lug wheels. You'll get a heavier duty transmission in the 3/4 ton. Unfortunately you'll lose the self-leveling feature in the 3/4 ton as its only available in the 1/2 ton chassis.
Depending on your wallet another alternative is the Denali XL which will give you the 6.0L in a 1/2 ton chassis. You get the power, tow rating, more comfortable rear suspension and alot of luxury features that you may or may not be looking for.
I owned 2 3/4 ton Subs and recently traded "down" to the 1/2 ton Denali for the comfort, features and power it offers. I too tow a 6000lb package and could not be happier with my decision however I have not really compared the towing capabilities of the new 3/4 ton chassis. My guess is from the posts here that the 3/4 ton with an 8.1L engine is an awesome tow vehicle, although based on your described needs it might be more than you really need given the weight and frequency of towing involved.
Rear end
6 has a semi-floating 9.5 gear rear axle
8.1 has a FULL floater 10.5 gear rear axle
Front bumper
The 8.1 has 1 opening on each side a the licence plate, in the chrome bumper part may be 8 by 4 inch for extra cooling.
Luc.2001 Xl.3/4 ton 8.1 , 4.10 gears.
I yield to your rebuttal! With that out of the way, I would choose a dvd player with MP3 audio capability that would allow movies and a lot of music on one CD if you of course burn your own.
cknott,
I agree with heatwave3 any of your choices that you have listed would easily do the job with 6000 pounds load. I myself had the 8.1w/4.10 and downsized to the 5.3w/3.73 for economy and comfort. I have a 7200 pound load and handle a lot of mountains in AZ and NM. True the 5.3 is challenged on the upgrades but its only a couple of minutes and the rest of its life is great on mileage (18+) compared to mileage (11+) on my old 8.1 with 4.10. The 3/4 ton will stop a little shorter for the same speed. But if you're only using it 6 or 7 times a year for towing go easy on your wallet.
ndared1
http://www.angelfire.com/tx5/gmpistonslap/index.html
Campo57
Thanks..
$4,000 later, the tech who replaced my motor speculated that a faulty intake gasket might have caused the demise of the motor. He said that the gasket is a known problem with these motors.
Has anyone experienced the same problem with the intake gasket leaking?
I'm reluctant, frankly, to buy another XL/Suburban until I can reach a comfort level with the reasons behind this engine failure!!
Thanks.
I have heard of SOME not all of the 5.7 L engines having a problem with the intake gasket leaking causing only vacuum leaks. As you probably know vacuum leaks seldom cause any problem in the lower end of the engine, driveability and fuel economy yes, thrown rods no way. The only other commonly know problem with the intake is the heater hose connection near the fire wall, the quick connector corrodes and will develop a leak over time. An intake manifold leaking antifreeze is fairly uncommon, but still a possibility in ANY engine, NOT just a GM product.
Before the engine went south were you losing antifreeze? If so do you know where it was going? My GUESS, and this is only a guess is you developed a head gasket leak from the water jacket into the lifter valley, or into a cylinder. If the coolant got into the cylinder it would burn off leaving a thick white smoke trail behind you, it could in theory cause the piston to stick in the block breaking the connecting rod and throwing it through the block. If the coolant got into the oil pan it would suspend the oil above the oil pump pick up circulating only "water" instead of oil. As we all know water in not a good lubricant at all. Now that can seize up an engine, but you would know it was coming, it wouldn't just happen out of no where. Throwing a rod is a really violent act, and it usually entails a lot of noise before the occurance. The tech should have been able to give you an exact reason for the failure, a leaking head or intake gasket will leave evidence of that failure, not speculation.
Did you have a bunch of oil and coolant leaking from under the truck when the engine blew? Did you see the engine block after removal, are you sure it was from your truck? If you answered no to any of these questions you should check your engine block for the VIN number, it's usually on the engine right in front of the head on a flat surface, it could be on wither the right or left side of the engine, front or back. If you are unsure take it to the dealer and see if the numbers are there an if they match your trucks VIN number you got hosed. If the guy said he re built your engine, he's lying about something, a thrown rod scraps the block, and it can't be saved no matter what the guy tries to do. I am not trying to insinuate that you don't know what was going on with your truck, but more concerned that you didn't get taken for a ride by a mechanic that sees an out of state stranded family and wants to capitalize on it to the full extent of his "power." I have heard of many of these schemes before all similar to yours.
Now to re-assure you the new gen Suburbans and Yukon XLs have the next gen engines also. Based on the Corvette/Camero/Firebird engines. Base engine is the 5.3L, and the 3/4 ton gets the 6.0L as a base engine with an optional 8.1L engine that is based on the old but proven 454 big block. I have a 3/4 ton Yukon XL with the 6.0L and am nothing but pleased with it, I would recommend it to anyone without a blink of an eye.
With 90K on the body and a fresh heart, why would you want to get rid of your current rig? It's good for at least another 100K miles. Unless the body is messed up, all rusty, or you need a ton of suspension work done. $4000 is a lot cheaper than a new truck payment.
Does anybody have the scoop on 2003/2004 MY changes for the Suburban and Yukon XL?
Any comments are welcome.
No GM dealer nearby, so he took it into a Firestone dealer, who diagnosed the intake gasket failure. He left the truck, charged the repairs, picked it up after shop hours, & started home. After about a 100 miles, he started hearing strange noises, stopped several times, but could not find anything wrong. Within the next 10 miles, the engine was knocking, & loosing power, until it quit.
He had it towed home to a trustworthy neighborhood garage. He contacted the Firestone dealer & Firestone's insurance carrier sent a rep who pulled the pan & found that the Firestone mechanic never changed the oil, after the intake manifold gasket repair, & there was at least a quart of coolant at the bottom of the pan, that caused the front (2) main bearings to fail, & tore up the crank.
Firestone picked up the total $4,000 cost to replace the engine w/ a factory rebuilt Jasper engine. This is one time when Firestone came through & deserves praise. My neighbor was totally satisfied with this settlement, & now feels that he is good for at least 100,000 more miles. Dave
I brought it in to my Chevy dealer for service.. there was a Service Bulletin on it.. all they were directed to do was to change the differential fluid in the rear end... it worked.. never had another problem with it .. I turned it in after 48K +miles and now have a 2001 Z71....along with my wife's 2001 Subn LT
hope this helps out..
I was interested in your comments about installing the 3/4 ton transmission temp gauge in the 1/2 ton. You said it was minimal cost....like how much. Did you do it yourself or have the dealer do it. If you did it yourself, where did you put the temp sender, etc. Thanks
By the way, for any ones information, I have a 2002 Yukon XL, 1500, SLT with the autoride. That is the way to go. The ride is almost as nice as my wifes Acura 3.2TL. I was amazed, and am still delighted with the ride. I also put the 17" Denali wheels and tires on it and that is a great way to improve the looks and handling. It gives you a larger/wider wheel(17x7.5" vs.16x7"), better looks, and most importantly, you wind up with Michelin tires instead of Firestone. Though, I have to admit, the factory Firestones did offer a good, smooth, ride.
If you are interested in the Denali wheel/tire combo, check E-Bay, or some of your local tire shops. Or, the next time you see a Denali with aftermarket wheels, ask him/her if they still have the originals......thats how I found mine.
Of course, if the 2003 model doesn't change much (I don't think I would want to pay big $$ for the 4-wheel steering), maybe it doesn't really matter. That is the only real change I have heard about - if anyone has more details, please share them!
Thanks for any input!!
TG
There are a lot of changes on the interior of the truck.
1 New seat stitching design, and side panels
2 Radio, from the triplets
3 Steering wheel w/radio controls from the triplets
4 Separate heat controls for the back and bottom
5 Dual climate controls for front
6 DVD available
7 Window switches and auto down pass side window
8 XM radio available
9 New console10 On Star moves to rear view mirror
11 Driver info center under shifter display, in addition to the message center.
12 Bose Stereo available in all models
Have you heard if four wheel steering will be available in burb and Tahoes.
What would likely be the earliest date to special order a 03?
4 wheel steering available on Yukon XL/Suburban 1/2 and 3/4 ton models, but not sure when they will hit the dealers, or the option price. I figure it to be around $2500-$2800. No word on 4WS on Yukon/Tahoe.
Earliest date to place an order is usually in late April early July, it depends on when GM rolls out the pricing and new option pkgs for the '03 models, they made big changes on the dash and radio options, plus the 4WS, so it could be late July for pricing on the new options.
What shocks do the Z71 burbs and tahoes come with?
Trucks come with tennecos and i replaced them with bilsteins. Really made a HUGE difference in ride
Is it difficult getting into the instrument panel to position the gauge? Does the 1/2 ton transmission have a connection point for a temp sensor? And... last but not least, how much does it cost? Thanks for your help.
The easiest way to get the temp gauge would be to buy a 2500, Denali or Escalade instument panel and swap it out for the one in the truck. All of these have the trans temp gauge in them and are for all intents and purposes a plug and play. The only extra step you need to take is to have the new panel programmed with your mileage and hours or get the odometer sticker for the door and use that. The panels run from around $180 - $250.
If you check this board, there are many posts with the part numbers for the different panels and for the sticker.
Campo57