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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • khopekhope Posts: 1
    My 2000 Suburban LT has an odd noise that happens when you turn the wheel to the left "semi-sharply",like when I pull into garage. It sounds like a loud bang on a base drum. I was in the passenger seat recently and felt it on the floorboard.Anybody else experiencing this situation?
  • rtomaniortomanio Posts: 2
    Tawoe: I would appreciate any further info you can give me on how you succeeded with this. The dealer has already admitted this is a known problem. I am not going to mess around with this. I want them to make me whole again and I will buy the 3/4 ton Yukon L. I wanted to do that to begin with, but the sales person talked me out of it because he said it was "unnecessary" due to the size of the camper!!! The immediate questions are how much did you lose (if any) sales tax, depreciation, etc and should we get an attorney. We only have 6,000 miles on the truck. We live in the state of Georgia.
  • billt22billt22 Posts: 1
    The lease on my 1999 Chevy Suburban LS expires in a few weeks and I am thinking about buying it...29,500 miles and in good shape. Only options, after market running boards and trailer hitch. The lease end residual value is $23,834 although finance company, Chase Finance, has agreed to sell it to me for $21,000. I see 1999 LT's with similar miles listed(before negotiating) for $23 -25K. Edmunds and kelly blue book list 1999 LS for $25K retail,$23K private party sale. Does $21K for an LS seem high...I've gone back to Chase twice and they say this is the best they will do. Thanks.
  • kduttonkdutton Posts: 2
    Looks like a great deal to me. I bought a 4WD LT 99 in January with 14,250 miles on it -- has all options -- and paid $25,400. Best I could find on used car web sites were prices around $30,000 to $32,000. Burbs/Expeditions for similar price had 55,000+ miles on them.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    GM to Use More Efficient Engines

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • kduttonkdutton Posts: 2
    Anyone know the maximum weight I can hang on my 1999 Suburban rear doors? I want to use a 3-bike rack, but don't know if it's safe or not.
  • subliminalsubliminal Posts: 29
    I believe there is a TSB out for the klunk which involves changing the tranny fluid and filters. Have your dealer check it out.

    Subliminal
  • rickhessrickhess Posts: 18
    I have a 2001 2500, 8.1 Liter, 4.10 rear, 4WD with 3500 miles. I traded a 2000 1500, 5.3 Liter, 4.10 rear, 4WD in January to have more towing power. I have noticed some peculiarities with the 8.1 Liter that were not present with the 5.3 Liter. I do not know if these are problems or just characteristics of the different and heavier drive train. I have asked the service department at my dealer about these things, and their response is that a light will come on if there is anything wrong with my vehicle. I would appreciate any comments from other 8.1 liter owners, or anyone generally in the know. This is the most expensive thing that I have ever purchased (next to my house), so I am overly protective, at least for now.

    1. On a cold start there is some soft lifter noise for the first minute or so. It is not a pronounced tap (like I have heard on some older vehicles) but more of a muffled noise. It subsides and is completely gone in a minute or so. Is this normal?

    2. Occasionally, the vehicle seems to hesitate for a split second before moving forward or resuming acceleration. This happens on pulling away from a dead stop in 1st gear, and occasionally during an upshift from a higher gear. It happens somewhat infrequently and is fairly subtle. It seems more like a transmission hesitation than an engine hesitation. I cannot tie it to any event or specific set of conditions. Does anyone know what this could be?

    3. Occasionally, the engine sounds rougher or throatier than normal when under load during acceleration. When this happens, it sounds like you can hear all eight cylinders (like you might expect from an older car). Normally, the engine is loud but smoother sounding. It seems like this happens when the ambient temperature is higher. When the engine sounds this way, it seems like I might also have slightly less power.

    4. I am burning some oil. I dropped three-fourths of a quart in 3000 miles. I assume this is still in the normal range. I have a 95 Nissan Maxima that I never put a drop of oil in, so I guess I am spoiled.

    All comments are welcomed.

    Rick
  • whatever7whatever7 Posts: 19
    My answers to your questions are below. I have a 2001 Suburban with the 8.1 Liter with 6500 miles on it.

    1. On a cold start there is some soft lifter noise for the first minute or so. It is not a pronounced tap (like I have heard on some alder vehicles) but more of a muffled noise. It subsides and is completely gone in a minute or so. Is this normal?

    I do not know if this is normal but I to have some lifter noise when I do a cold start. It goes away in a few minutes and I am not that concerned because I was given a 75,000 mile five year warranty due to a oil line failure that occurred the day I brought my Suburban home.

    2. Occasionally, the vehicle seems to hesitate for a split second before moving forward or resuming acceleration. This happens on pulling away from a dead stop in 1st gear, and occasionally during an upshift from a higher gear. It happens somewhat infrequently and is fairly subtle. It seems more like a transmission hesitation than an engine hesitation. I cannot tie it to any event or specific set of conditions. Does anyone know what this could be?

    I have not experienced any hesitation under any conditions. One thing that I can honestly say about this engine is that it impressive acceleration and torque from idle to 4500 RPM's.

    3. Occasionally, the engine sounds rougher or throatier than normal when under load during acceleration. When this happens, it sounds like you can hear all eight cylinders (like you might expect from an older car). Normally, the engine is loud but soother sounding. It seems like this happens when the ambient temperature is higher. When the engine sounds this way, it seems like I might also have slightly less power.

    I have not experienced this problem either.

    4. I am burning some oil. I dropped three-fourths of a quart in 3000 miles. I assume this is still in the normal range. I have a 95 Nissan Maxima that I never put a drop of oil in, so I guess I am spoiled.

    I have never had to add oil. I get my oil changed by the dealer (thanks to a free 3 YR 36,000 mile maintenance plan for the same problem mentioned above) every 3000 miles.

    I would have your engine checked for the acceleration issue and the excessive noise under a load. This does not seem normal
  • eversonseversons Posts: 38
    1. Cold start clatter: I have this, I am not too alarmed by it.

    2. Split second hesitation: I have experienced this a couple of times. My foot is off the brake, I give the car a little gas, the engine speed increases but I go nowhere for about a second. Kind of like the car is on rollers but the tires aren't moving. I was on dry level surfaces with a warm vehicle. My guess would be the computer that controls the transmission is on holiday for a second or two and needs an update from GM.

    3. Throaty sound: Don't know if I've heard that.

    4. Oil consumption: 2 quarts added first 4000 miles. None next 4000 miles.
  • don4341don4341 Posts: 69
    The 2001 Service manual has very little on this device. Operation/description is covered on pages 8-998 through 8-1002. The manufacturer can be contacted at 800-355-3515. The write up advises that the Valet Switch feeds power to the GDO.
    ( Garage Door Opener )
    Have you tried using the GDO in both positions of the Valet Switch?
    The removal of the short overhead console is described on page 8-1436. Only one screw holds the unit in place. It is located in the forward end of the console.
    You can not find the term valet switch in the index of volume 5 of the service manual. There is not one wiring diagram which lists Home link transmitter as a wired item nor does one connector show a lead identified as a Home Link Transmitter Lead.
    Not sure but I think this item is powered through the INT PRK fuse which is rated at 10 amp. If this fuse was blown you would lose several small light circuits. A connector may have come apart inside the overhead short console. Again only one screw supports this device - other end is held in place by two small tabs which plug in to the headliner. Please advise of the wire colors IF you drop the console to check for a lose connector or broken wire.
    Good Luck Don.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Why not just get either a roof top bike rack, but that may be to tall to get into some fast food drive thrus. Other alternative would be a hitch mounted carrier, if you are not towing at the time you are hauling bikes around it is a great set up. I had one on my old van and it had a tilt down feature that let me get into the back doors without removing the rack. I am not sure about weight limits on the doors, if you are going to use strap on type carrier, or plan on mounting it directly to the doors.
  • babyangelsbabyangels Posts: 32
    Hi there...

    We have located a 2000 Yukon XL SLT that we are interested in buying just across the border in Canada. It is being sold at a GMC dealer who originally sold the vehicle as new to the one owner. ( He traded it in on a motorhome)
    It has all we've been looking for... quad buckets, liftgate, 1/2 ton... except the sunroof! Has anyone added an aftermarket sunroof on the Yukon XL? Cost ideas/problems, etc...?
    Also, has anyone done any buying across the border? This dealer doesn't usually change the odometer over unless he's dealing with another dealer... All the dealers around me locally say to be sure and have it changed...???
    The price is better than we could buy it for here... and we can't seem to find the quad buckets in the color we're looking for. This one is pewter which isn't my favorite... but it's alright. We'd rather have the maroon, navy, or green with the pewter underneath.

    Anyway... any ideas in how to proceed with these issues would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks!
  • elmgroveelmgrove Posts: 4
    Hi everyone,
    It's been a while since I have posted. With 2 small kids forgive me if this has been covered before. We are looking for a tv/vcr that others would recommend. I am tempted to buy a 9 inch tv/vcr ac/dc model and put it between the rear seats on our 2000 xl. Does anyone know if and or how I could hook this up to the rear audio controls? Thanks, Carl
  • fnulnu40fnulnu40 Posts: 2
    My lease on my 1/2 ton 99 suburban expires soon. I am considering 3/4 to with a 6000 or 8100 engine, but can find no info on mileage. Can anybody with those engines write back please. thanks in advance.
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    I have 2500 4 WD 6.0 4.10 rear, with 4700 miles. I put in a quart of oil at 3000 miles, and have about 1000 miles on oil change and when last checked, it was a full. Never added oil before with GM 350's between oil changes.

    I feel some hesitation when I first start to move off, but to me it feels like the engine/trans. is haveing a hard time getting the weight moving. I notice this pulling my boat out at the ramp. Once moving, it feels like a D8 Cat.

    Gas mileage: 6 or 7 around town, short trips, 7.7 pulling 8000 LB boat and trailer, flat land, 225 mile trip. Hiway, 12-13.5. (Very disappoint-ing.)

    If I was buying a new 2500, I would not accept Firestone tires. I only got $25 per tire, trading up to Michelins 245/75 to 265/75 at over $800 for the Michelins. Most flustraing to me, two GM dealers have been unable to use the "Tech 2" to correct the 4% error on the speedometer with the increased tire size. The problem caused is that in Tow/Haul, the truck will not go into overdrive until it reads 55 on the speedometer. That means that I have to drive almost 58 MPH to get into overdrive. Sometimes a problem on tow lane traveled roads. Also, I never expected the lost of power and the effect of keeping it in overdrive with the new tires, only 1.3 inches larger in diamiter. Before, it stayed on overdrive over interstate overpasses, and now jumps out on small grades. I choose the 6.0 engine, thinking I would get better gas mileage than the 8.1. I hate to think the 8.1 would be worst.

    Otherwise, very nice truck to drive (with autoride feature) and no problems so far. At over $60 per tank full, mileage is costly. MY .02
    Skipjack 2
  • warzonectxwarzonectx Posts: 26
    how fast do the 1998 Chevrolet Suburban go. can the Chevrolet Suburban go 120 if you have som info post it or email me. my email is [email protected]
  • rickhessrickhess Posts: 18
    Skipjack 2:

    Thanks for the experience information. You characterized the hesitation problem much better than I did. It seems like the drive train is trying to overcome some type of inertia. I have already found myself checking the emergency brake to make sure it is not on. I didn't have this problem on my 1500, so it must be specific to the 2500 transmission.

    I've only checked towing mileage with a 6630 lb (dry weight) travel trailer in tow, and it wasn't a precision check. On flat highway it was a little under 9 mpg. I do not think my 5.3 L. 1500 did much better. For highway travel I can cruise in 4th/OD at 65 mph and 2000 rpm almost all of the time with the 8.1L. I couldn't tow in 4th at all with the 5.3 L., so the engine was always running at 3000 rpm while cruising. I assume there is a tradeoff between engine speed and displacement when it comes to mileage.

    Rick
  • mnbuckymnbucky Posts: 16
    We bought a 13" TV/DVD from Sam's Club at Christmas. It fits nice and snug between the front seatbacks while sitting on the center console. We use one of those portable stereo adapters that connects to the headphone jack on the TV and plays through the cassette player so our movies can be played through the Suburban's speaker system. The only requirement (because it is AC powered) is that I had to wire a power inverter. This TV has a high enough initial load that small inverters (that plug into cigarette lighter) would trip. Believe me, I must have tried them all. So we now have an inverter under the center seat that's wired to the battery up front. The 13" screen is great. And for $400 (including the power inverter), it is probably our most cost-effective addition to the truck.
  • dustyonedustyone Posts: 262
    My '01 2500 Suburban LT, 6.0 Liter, 3.73 rear got 9.9 mph first tank (all city), 2nd tank 14.89 (all highway, wide open, no trailer), third tank 14.5 mixed mostly highway. I did not buy this vehicle for it's gas mileage. Just keep telling yourself this as you fill up. Good luck
  • buster27buster27 Posts: 28
    To rickhess:
    I have written about the cold start problems with the 8.1 on this forum before. I have about 3500 miles on my 2500 Suburban, and it still continues to clatter on start up. Very disturbing noise coming from a new vehicle that cost $43000. The dealer has no clue. Just says that the lighter weight piston is the culprit. They have been trying to get some help from GM technical assistance with no success. They say it is not doing any damage and does not effect engine performance or longevity. RIGHT! Might have to pursue getting an extension on the warranty like whatever7.
    Did have to add about 3/4 qt. of oil in first 2000 miles, but after first oil change at 3000 miles, have not had to add any.
    Have not had any transmission hesitation problems. Did have a problem with a thunk coming from the drive line when coming to a stop. Lubing the spline with silicone lubricant helped this problem.
    Mileage has been what I consider very good. Have been getting around 11.5 to 12 mpg around town and driving to work. About 14.5 interstate driving. About 9 mpg when towing 35' travel trailer. As good as my 96 with 454. I have the 3.73 rear end.
    Power is great and don't have a problem with excessive noise that I've noticed.
    Let us all know if your dealer has a fix for the cold start clatter problem.
    Thanks.
  • speedy2114speedy2114 Posts: 1
    I have owned a 95 MC, 5.7, Z71 pickup but need to move into a Suburban.
    We have a house in the mountains of Northern Arizona so we do a lot of mountain driving. My 95 is fine except for the non-Vortec, 60mph ax on some grades - I hate to be passed by new Fords!
    I don't buy new cars so I am looking at 2000, 1999 (old style) and 98 Suburbans.
    Would welcome input on pluses and minuses of old as new style. Also, are the 2001's improved enough to justify waiting for them to show up in the used market?
    Thanks
  • wkohlerwkohler Posts: 74
    I have owned all 3 model year suburbans. The 99 had much more power than the 95 (about 35 more horsepower). The 2001 engine, even though less litres (5.3 vs 5.7) , but rated at 285 hp, so far seems far superior to the 99. If I were you, I'd wait for the 2001 model to show up on the used car market. No real difference between 00 and 01, just most of the "bugs" have been worked out of the newer design. I paid pretty close attention to this site during the 2000 model year. Had lots of problems with windows not going up and down, water leaks, seat/seat back problems, resonance when driving, etc. Would stay away from the 2000 model year. I own a 2001, built in December of 2000. Have about 1500 miles on, and so far, no problems. The 2001 is far superior in ride, handling, and braking to the 1999. Only draw back is that the 2001 seems somewhat smaller outside and inside than the 1999. I especially miss the extra room in the 99, especially the rear cargo area behind the 3rd seat. Plus, I preferred the extra fuel capacity of the 99. 42 gallons vs the 32.5 gallons on the 01.
  • ssmilesssmiles Posts: 35
    I opted for a built in "Visteon" TV system. It has a single 7" flip down screen (mounted where the rear a/c contols are) and features VHS & DVD. I am impressed by the picture quality and how well you can see it even from the far back row. The VHS is mounted on the headliner at the rear of my 2001 Suburban Z71, while the DVD is mounted underneath the left seat of the second row. System is conrolled by wireless remote. It also features 4 headphones allowing me to listen to the stereo while the 3 kids watch Disney movies. You can also push a button which switches the audio to the vehicles's 9 speaker system. Of course I had to spend about $1800 for this, but it sure is nice.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    If memory serves me, in '96 GM started putting speed limiter on all GM cars. The Vette, Camaro, Firebird, and any cop model vehicle all had 120 limits, the rest got 98 MPH limits. I don't know what top speed is, but you can get a power programmer to defeat this limiter and find out. I have a 2001 YXL with a 6.0 and it has plenty left in it when the limiter kicks in!
  • elmgroveelmgrove Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info. ssmile's that sounds really nice, too bad I can't justify spending that kind of money. Mnbucky, How do you keep the tv on the console? I'm thinking about a 9 inch tv/vcr combo that has a lighter plug. So the width will be a little smaller. I like the thought of putting it on the console, but I wonder about a sudden stop. Will it go flying or do you have it strapped down? I guess I'm leaning this way just for the fact that it has a dual purpose, in the truck and in the camper. I thought of setting it between the seats and making some sort of a base so it would be angled up. Putting it on the console wouldn't be too bad as long as its secured I think. We plan on only using it for longer drives and trips.

    The other one I was thinking about was the one that replaces you console cover and swivels. Has anyone seen this one?

    Thanks, Carl
  • mnbuckymnbucky Posts: 16
    We chose the 13" TV/DVD for several reasons. 1) I wanted stereo so that movies would sound better played through the truck speaker system. The smaller units were mono. 2) It fits so snugly between the seatbacks so that we don't have to strap it down. It never slides during braking or acceleration. I'm sure that in a crash it would go through the windshield -- but at that point, the TV would be the least of my worries. 3) The larger screen is much better. 4) Came with a remote control 5) We have it in the truck only on longer drives. At 13", it's adequate for use in the kitchen/bedrooms.
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Posts: 262
    Have you stopped over at DMC Vans in Butler at 126th & Silver Spring,they may be able to tell you the advantages & disadvantages. The flying TV in crash would be fine if it went flying thru the windsheild, but 9 out of 10 times it would become a flying missile and stay in the vehicle, taking out anything in it's way including kids........I would think you would want that secured somewhat.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    GMC Yukon XL 4x2

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

  • tpkentpken Posts: 1,108
    Yes - It's the rear end collisions that would be the most damaging to people in the second or third seats - not worth the risk in my opinion.

    Ken
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