HELP! New burb owners - 1st time. 2001 1/2 LT autoride, our 1st ever new car. 12K miles. Hear a "clicking" noise when we turn to the left, such as in the grocery store parking lot, turning slow. Took it to dealer they took 2 hours troubleshooting it, called the CM engineers in Detroit and they determined it was a bad steering box. They didn't have it in stock, so ordered it. My husband was down there today where they installed the new steering box after 3.5 hours. My husband took it home, however noticed that the steering wheel was not straight or aligned properly. He turned around and went back to have them fix it. That took 1.5 hours to fix that -- and we think that the problem is fixed. Only to find out on the drive home (we are 1 hour away from the dealer) and after 5 pm today, that the problem IS NOT fixed and the noise is still there.
We are of course frustrated that our brand new car has a problem that seems to be developing into a un-resolvable issue. (we had the toyota performance debate when we were looking for our car back in March - Sequoia vs. Suburban.) We opted for the space and HOPED we would not end up with a service needy vehicle.
Anyone heard of this sort of noise/problem? (We have done a little searching on this board...locking differential msg. 1131 or msg 1235 - but how do we email these people? can you tell we are newbies on this board? :-)
Also...this is now our second full day of trying to get this resolved...is this to be expected? What are our rights regarding something like this?
What thoughts, ideas or other boards could we look to find what might be related to this? Your help and perspective is appreciated.
Do you have a 4 wheel drive or 2 wheel drive? If it is a 4 wheel drive you may have a defective CV shaft, it's the drive shaft that goes to each of the front wheels. Those make clicking noises when they go bad.
As far as getting it repaired correctly, you can go to ANY Chevy dealer!! You are not stuck with the shop you bought the unit from. If they can't get the job done go elsewhere. Call 1-800-chev-usa, or use on-star if you have it and ask for the number 1 rated service dept in your area, they do keep records on that stuff, and are more than happy to give you the info.
It's there in all the ones on both the Chevy and GMC dealers. Its at the bottom of the seat back. Look for the little circles that are silk screened onto the fabric/leather. The hooks you are looking for are there behind the slits in the fabric/leather. My GMC dealer said they have been installed on every '02 Yukon XL and Suburban. If you are sticking your hand between the seat bottom and back like the ones in the cars you are too low. The hooks are in the seat back itself, if you flip the seat bottom up it might make it easier for you to see the slits. Let us know if you found them, it is kinda strange the top would be there w/o the bottom ones. There are 4 hooks on the bottom, 2 on each of the outboard seats.
With 40 grand on the ticker I would suspect shocks, unless you have Autoride?. I notice a wind with my 3/4 ton Autoride?, but I just make the adjustment and keep on rolling. Did you buy the truck new? If you didn't buy it new and are coming out of a car you will notice the wind a whole lot more.
I wrote msg #1235. You describe the noise you hear as a clicking noise. The problem I had, would have produced more of a snap, knock, or thud near the passenger side floorboard as the person I was responding in msg #1202 to had described. It only happened on left turns, or returning from a left turn position. Mine was caused by misrouted transmission cooling lines catching on the steering idler arm grease fitting. Others on this board, checked their vehicles & did not find this interference problem. Mine was corrected by putting a bit of a bend to reposition the lines. All factory attaching clips were properly in place. I do check mine at each oil change, & the problem has not returned. Perhaps you or your dealer can check for this condition, just in case you have a similar situation. If a problem ocurrs on (1) vehicle, it is likely to ocurr on some others as well. It is worth checking out, seeing as how you are hearing it on left turns only, as mine did. Mine became evident at 7,500 miles, & you've got 12,000. Good luck, & keep us posted as to what you find. Whatever you find will likely help someone else as well. Dave
What different types of differentials are offered? I have heard on "locking", "posi", and "limited slip"... although I was told posi & limited slip are the same thing.
Hello, my wife and I just picked up our new baby! He is a 5100 pound Burb. The Burb is Dark Grey, with moon roof, autoride and Locking Diff, wheel flares. I was set on cargo doors, cause I had then on my 99 Tahoe, but it was so hard to find cargo doors with options. It seems like on the Tahoes and Burbs that have cargo doors, seem to be on the lower end of the scale. I guess I can live with the liftgate for now....until the shocks go out. My wife was a die-hard cargo door girl, but she seems to like being able to see out the entire back.....who would have thought. I got the truck for 100 bucks over invoice, It was on the lot, only had 12 mile on it. I had to take the truck home before I bought it, to make sure it would fit in the garage. What a MONSTER, I thinki I am going to LOVE THIS TRUCK!! I can't wait to test it in the snow up here in Wisconsin, and see how the autoride does with towing the boat!
I test drove my new truck today, before delivery on Wednesday, & thought the brakes felt a little mushy. It's a 2500 with the 6.0 engine. Does anyone else feel the same way? They seem to stop ok but the pedal seems to have a long travel after initial pressure is felt. I'm used to brakes that offer increasing resistance the harder the pedal is depressed. Please any comments.
Also I checked the sheet metal very carefully & found no sign of damage. I also got the prep man on the side & asked him if the truck cam in with any damage, he said absolutely not. He seems honest enough, I tend to believe him.
It may be that I am clueless (a very real possibility these days), but I still can't find the darn things. I have second row bucket seats, could this be the problem? I am hopeful that it is just my current dazed and confused state and not the fact that I have the bucket seat option. Any additional info would be appreciated. Thanks.
Bring the vehicle to the dealer and ask. If it isn't there, request that it be added since it was supposed to be there (you will probably have to fight for that since the whole seatback might have to be changed).
It would apprear to me that the body colored panel on the 2002 LT rear view mirrors is simply a press on panel over the LS base black mirror. My GM parts guy says no....you can not order just the panel, paint and press on....or in my case take off (am doing a conversion package). Can anyone help??? Thanks!
As far as I know they did not change for 2002, and I know the 2001 is a different panel. The LS black mirrors are a textured black plastic where as the LT paint-to-match mirror is a smooth plastic. I had to order a replacement mirror for the LS and they originally got the wrong one which had to be send back and replaced.
I don't know where you are getting your parts, but Brassington GM located somewhere in FL advertizes to sell all GM OEM parts at 15% over their cost. They were much more competitive than other places I looked, even used parts from a salvage yard. I don't recall teh web address, but you should be able to find them with a search.
"rear view mirrors is simply a press on panel over the LS base black mirror"
Yep the silverados are chrome. Took mine off and painted them blue
They are held in by 2 clips and 3m double sided tape.
Tape a butter knie slowly around the whole section and using a sawing motion to cut the tape. After going all around (slowly took me 10-15 mins a mirror to get em off). Then pop it off. To reinstall add tape and pop back on very simple
A press on panel yes, but over the LS base no. The LS base mirror has a rough textured black plastic press on panel in place of the chrome one on the silverados and the smooth plastic paint-to-match LT. Yes all can be removed to be replaced (if GM will sell the panel only, which I doubt), but you could not just remove the crome or painted panel and not replace it with another panel.
Just wanted to post my thoughts for those of you lurking to consider a Sub/YXL purchase. I have an Indigo Blue YXL 1500/4WD loaded with Autoride and second row buckets. Currently have 17K miles on it and have had it a little over a year. The only problem to report - a fog light bulb burned out. Seriously, (knock on wood)that's been it. Have taken it from Ohio to vacations in South Carolina and to Illinois. I personally like bucket seats and the Autoride. Both are options that work well for my needs and I believe they are worth it. Really the only little annoyance that I have with the vehicle is the lack of a trip odometer. Minor, but I think it is a feature that should be added. Fit, finish, powertrain......are all to my satisfaction. Thanks !
Here is the update: (see message #2001 for the beginning of the story). Took it back to the dealer today. They said there are 4 other burbs that have the SAME problem at the same dealership we bought ours as well as many more with the same problem across the nation - no specific numbers were given. The manager told us "it is out of his hands" and we were to call the 800 customer service number. The result of the engineers at GM...."IT CAN'T BE FIXED"...but doesn't cause a safety problem ...according to them. They don't know what caused the problem, how to resolve it, or what the fix should be...BUT IT ISN'T A SAFETY PROBLEM? How do they know, if they don't know what causes the problem in the first place.
Is this the beginning of a nightmare car - endless problem, that cannot be resolved that will just get worse? We only have 12K miles on it...our brand new beautiful car looks not so great now (sorry if you are looking to buy one).
So...how do we get more information as to our options (yes, we have checked the lemon law) - who will help us and what does it take to get out of a car situation like this? It can't be fixed! Unbelieveable that we spent 40K for something like that.
Any advice or experience with this would be helpful. Please post! Thank you.
Anyone else out there have a rattling fuel line? I had my truck in 3x before I met someone else who had solved the same problem with their '02.
BTW, has anyone had a transmission failure on there '02? I drove mine 12 miles before 3rd & 4th gear disintegrated. Since the new tranny I've had slippage, rattles and something that sounds like a fan cycling on & off.
I've had the thing for 85 days and it's been in the shop for 11. I live in Boston and if my truck is in the shop for 3 more days I can apply for the lemon law. Believe it or not I love the truck. Just wish more of the parts were made in the US rather than Mexico.
I have a new sub 2002 with 1300 miles and I have a problem with my steering wheel (it makes a rubbing sound)when I am coming out of parking spaces. I did take it to the dealer 7 days after I got it, but they couldn't reproduce the problem. I have another problem now my brakes are squeaking and I am getting a draft inside the car (its seems to be coming from the doors. Anybody has this problem. I will take it back to the dealer and see what they say.
I know you have the YXL & I have a 2000-Tahoe LS & 2001-2500HD Chevys but don't you have a button on the dash to push that will reset the trip meter??? Push for a second it will show trip miles & push & hold it will reset.
Can someone explain this person (me) what's the difference between the 4.10 and 3.73 and which one a person who does mostly (not entirely) 'normal' driving is. Mine is an 02 Suburban LS 4wd, and I do have the limited slip diff and tow pkg.
The difference is how many revolutions the drive shaft makes for each revolution of the wheel. It matters for amplifying torque for towing with the higher ratio, and improved milage/ engine wear on the lower ratio. The difference for towing can be significant if you are towing something relatively heavy. The difference in milage/ engine wear is so small you will never see it, IMO.
As for which one you have, it could be either. It will be listed on the window sticker as an option if you have the 4.10. If it is not listed as an option, you will find it in the standard equipment if it is the 3.73
If you don't still have the window sticker, it is also contained as a code in the VIN number, but I don't know which character or which code is which. Maybe someone else here does.
If you look in the bottom of the glove box (passenger side-dash), you will see a VIN "build sheet". It includes GM's codes for what is on that particular vehicle. The codes are 3 digit codes listed in alphabetical order from left to right. Here is a translation for some gear ratio codes and locking differential. GU6 = 3.42 gears, GT4 = 3.73 gears, GT5 = 4.10 gears, G80 = Locking differential. If you do a search of "GM RPO codes" with an internet search engine, you will find a number of websites that can provide you with this information. The code translation is the same for all GM vehicles including Isuzu.
I recently bought a used 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500 4 Wheel Drive. After a few days I noticed that when starting from a dead stop, there is noticeable "Klunk/bump". Also I noticed the Electric fuel pump making a whining noise and it will run for a second after shutting the engine off. Different people have told me the the fuel pump is going to fail in the near future, say a few months. I took the truck in to the dealer's Service Department and they supposedly check the vehicle and told me both conditions are "normal". I had a '91 Suburban with 125K miles on it and never had a "klunk" when starting from a stop position, nor did the fuel pump make any noise.
Would appreciate any feedback on these issue. Thanks
cknott, Thanks, I knew the codes were available, I just didn't remember where.
Jaw2000, No I'm not a teacher, but on the subject of gear ratios, I know quite a bit because I used to race a stock car at a local oval track. If you want to get real detailed, you can start looking a tire circumferences and how that affects the power available at the ground and maximizing the torque of the engine. But that goes way beyond what is needed for everyday driving.
Are you looking for a 1500 or a 2500 series? Will you be towing a heavy load or using it just for general driving? Is it going to be your spouses vehicle or your commute vehicle? How are you planing on using your truck & what do you expect from it.
I'm sure all here will be glad to offer any assistance we can. I just took delivery of my 2500 on the 27th & received a lot of help right here to that influenced my decision. Well write back soon.
Thanks for your response. I will be purchasing the 1500, with 4 wheel drive. I will not be doing any towing. I plan to drive the vehicle myself, basically every day for work and general purposes. Virtually all driving will be done on city and highway paved roads.
Also plan to take it on vacations.
I have two main reasons for buying this vehicle. I wanted a larger vehicle to carry 5 or more. Also, I have a significant back problem that prevents me from driving most vehicles. (I recently had to return a 2002 Buick LeSabre because of this.)
I tried many vehicles and I find the power lumbar and general support of the seats in the Yukon to be very good. I tried the seats of minivans made by all manufactures domestic and imported and found them to be inadequate as far as my back is concerned.
As I mentioned before I am considering the Yukon XL with the SLT trim level. I do not want the second row bucket seats as I prefer the extra seating offered by the 3- passenger folding seat that comes standard with the vehicle. I do not want the Denali version as it increases the price about $7 to $8 thousand in Canada and the bigger engine on the Denali uses significantly more gas.
i have owned a suburban for 18 years, but am considering switching to a tahoe. can anyone help me on the differences (how much storage, if nay, in back of tahoe with 3rd seat in, how much legroom, can i get bucket seats in 2nd row)? If anyone has owned both, can you tell me your pros and cons? Thanks.
I have a 2001 YXL 2500 4 WD, GM put a speed limiter on the thing that tops out at 98 MPH. If the limiter was removed I am sure it will do well over 100 MPH, at 90 if I punch it it puts you into the seat, so It will probably do at least 110. At 95 I'm taching out at around 3500-3700, according to the passenger, I was too busy watching the road to look close. I know that the Hypertech power programmer can take out the limiter, but I can't justify paying $300 to do that, I rarely go over 75 MPH any ways.
My saga continues. The dealer was instructed by GM to reflash the computer in hopes that my transmission problems would go away. Has anyone out there experienced any transmission problems on an '02 models?
I have logged over 15,000 miles on my ride since taking delivery April 30, 2001. So far, only one minor problem..a piece of plastic molding on the roof of the rear interior area near the liftgate cracked and was quickly replaced by dealer under warranty. Goodyear tires are not showing any sign of wear. Vehicle has been off-road numerous times. My 5.3 Litre V8 has the 3.73 axle ratio and has been averaging 16 mpg in mostly surface street driving.
You can order one now, for '02 models, I think you can order until the end of April. If you are not in a hurry I would wait for the '03 model with new dash and seats. It has the steering wheel controls, and dual zone climate controls, and radio from the Envoy. The heated leather seat got the seat bottom and seat back separated so you can have the back on with out the bottom, and so on. The door panel gets new switches for the windows and locks. It also has a new console, it reminds me of the Denali w/o the computer and cd changer. It is only speculation but I think you can get the radio with built in 6 disc changer as an option, like in the Envoy, where the radio has the changer built into it. I have pictures of the '03 interior. If you want to see what it looks like email me.
I too am extremely happy with my Sub Z71. I previously had a 2001 Yukon with Autoride and I will say that the Z71 ride is quite a bit stiffer. For those contemplating Autoride it is well worth the price. The ride is GREAT and the self-leveling feature is nice if you tow a lot.
I had 24,000 miles on my Yukon when I traded it for the Sub Z71 and I never had it in for one repair. However, I am having a few tranny oddities with the new Sub that I might have the dealer check out. One is that the transmission seems to act differently than the Yukon tranny. When I park on an incline, even a slight incline (such as my driveway), after I put the vehicle in park and take my foot off the brake the vehicle will roll backwards. Sometimes a couple inches, sometimes as much as 5 or 6 inches, sometimes not at all. Secondly, sometimes I think I feel slippage in the transmission when I take off. Again, I never noticed these things in the Yukon which had the same rear end and tranny.
I have done a few modifications to the new Sub. I added a Go Rhino Sumatra 3000 brush guard with KC Slimlites to the front and Westin tail light protectors in the back. Also I bypassed the factory stereo with the wiring kit described at the Delphi site and the results are WAY better than the stock sound. I am kicking myself for never doing it in my old Yukon.
I would still like to raise the the front end a couple of inches to level the vehicle out a little but I am hesitant to screw around with the torsion bars because I am not sure what the repurcussions (if any) will be. I know somebody makes a torsion bar kit that will get you about 2". Has anyone installed this? Adjusting the stock bars will get you about an inch is what I hear. I would also like to install some type of reverse lights. Optimally in the round cut-outs of the cargo rack or under/near the receiver.
Intersted in seeing what others have done to their Subs/XLs.
"Intersted in seeing what others have done to their Subs/XLs. "
The only thing I have done to my wife's '01 K2500HD Sub is to back into a parked car. One night, a visitor to the across the street neighbor parked on the street at my driveway. I backed into the car and bent the left bumper hard enough to dent the left quarter panel with the bumper. New bumper is $475 from GM. GMpartsdirect is $375 (all with out pads, etc). Junkyard bumper complete (pads, lights, etc) from a '00 GMC truck was $150. Three person job to install, 2 to hold while installing bolts. Now for the backup sensor installation..Is this closing the barn door after the cow....?
This is not the kind of information that you seek!!!!
Replaced the Deathstones with Michelin LTX M/S 265-70x16 and installed Cord lighted running boards to replace the narrow factory boards
I laugh at the description you give of putting on the bumper. Installing the brush guard is a similar ordeal. 2 guys - one to hold and the second to attach. The second guy must also have the world's skinniest arms in order to snake the required brackets through the bumper and associated brackets.
On my last Yukon I replaced the Firestone's with 17" wheels and Michelins off of the Denali. Since you have a 2500 series you don't have that luxury because I believe you have a different bolt pattern.
Check out the Consumer Ratings for your vehicle (both New and Used). Feel free to write your own. (The Rating will be found in the upper right when you drill down to your make and model). Steve Host SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Please no teasing on the name! 35 and married with two kids! Anyway, Chevy salesperson said the 'Burb has no split-fold seat, only the Tahoe. Edmunds says the '01 'Burb has a folding 3rd seat and the '02 'Burb as having a split-fold seat. I would like to have this feature. My Toyota van, Sienna, has a 3rd seat, bench, that allows you to remove one side, or you can fold and flip this. Is this how the 'Burb is? Won't be buying until summmer of '03 when I plan to buy a used 'Burb, either a year or two old. Thanks!
Besides the new interior, does anyone know if GM will offer the 6.0L Vortec in the '03 'Burb/XL? Denali is too expensive nor do I want full-time 4WD. I wouild like the 300+ horsepower, however!
Looking for info on good CD Changer to go in '01 LT w/ rear audio. Going on extended Road trip and spousal sanity depends on adding changer. Also looking for good quality portable TV/VCR combo kit for rear seat. 31K only one problem - left rear shock blew, dealer replaced. And leather drivers seatback wearing thin up near shoulder.
I currently own a 2001 suburban, but have owned a 97 and a 99. The fuel pump whine is NORMAL. Both the 97 and the 99 whined. Had absolutely no problems with either. the 97 had 40+ thousand miles on it and the 99 had close to 35 thousand miles. Some friends of mine have and still own 98 and 99 suburbans, all of which have fuel pump whine. Don't worry about it! As for the driveline clunk, I didn't have that, but did notice a service bulletin (TSB) regarding it. For some reason I can no longer access the site for the bulletins (which gave detail accounts of each problem and the fix for those problems). Maybe someone else can offer directions as to how to access the TSBs. Hope this helps!
I got one for my '01 YXL w/rear audio controls for a place in Saginaw MI. The guys there are GREAT, call in tech help if you get stuck or need further assistance, fast shipping, great products!!
The changer is a unit made specific to work in GM cars/trucks. The changer has Rockford Fosgate on the door, but is actually made by the same company that makes them for GM. It runs through the radio controls w/o any problems with on-star or the tape deck, everything works in great harmony, no pun intended. Best of all you don't have that extra control hanging out on the dash, and the rear audio controls can run the changer it the main stereo is not using it. I installed it myself with only one problem, running the harness up to the rear of the radio head unit. I ended up using a coat hanger to fish the harness up to the rear of the radio.
The kit comes with the changer and interface cable, you will also need the cable to go from the radio to the changer, and the "Y" connector that will go into the back of the radio. I was told you can hook the "Y" to the tape deck also, if you don't want to pull the dash all apart.
The Burb/YXL's get the bench and the Tahoe/Yukon get split 3rd row. I have the YXL and the bench flips and folds forward with a little stand thing to hold it up when you need to put something in the back, it comes out really easy and one person can do the job w/o incident. The Yukon/Tahoe you can remove one or the other or both 3rd row seats, the problem I see in the Yukon/Tahoe is that the 3rs row is kid only territory. In the YXL I can have 2 adults and a child in the 3rd row no problems, I can't see that happening in the Tahoe/Yukon.
Comments
We are of course frustrated that our brand new car has a problem that seems to be developing into a un-resolvable issue. (we had the toyota performance debate when we were looking for our car back in March - Sequoia vs. Suburban.) We opted for the space and HOPED we would not end up with a service needy vehicle.
Anyone heard of this sort of noise/problem? (We have done a little searching on this board...locking differential msg. 1131 or msg 1235 - but how do we email these people? can you tell we are newbies on this board? :-)
Also...this is now our second full day of trying to get this resolved...is this to be expected? What are our rights regarding something like this?
What thoughts, ideas or other boards could we look to find what might be related to this? Your help and perspective is appreciated.
Loved our Burb but are now starting to wonder....
As far as getting it repaired correctly, you can go to ANY Chevy dealer!! You are not stuck with the shop you bought the unit from. If they can't get the job done go elsewhere. Call 1-800-chev-usa, or use on-star if you have it and ask for the number 1 rated service dept in your area, they do keep records on that stuff, and are more than happy to give you the info.
I do check mine at each oil change, & the problem has not returned. Perhaps you or your dealer can check for this condition, just in case you have a similar situation. If a problem ocurrs on (1) vehicle, it is likely to ocurr on some others as well. It is worth checking out, seeing as how you are hearing it on left turns only, as mine did. Mine became evident at 7,500 miles, & you've got 12,000. Good luck, & keep us posted as to what you find. Whatever you find will likely help someone else as well. Dave
Also I checked the sheet metal very carefully & found no sign of damage. I also got the prep man on the side & asked him if the truck cam in with any damage, he said absolutely not. He seems honest
enough, I tend to believe him.
It may be that I am clueless (a very real possibility these days), but I still can't find the darn things. I have second row bucket seats, could this be the problem? I am hopeful that it is just my current dazed and confused state and not the fact that I have the bucket seat option. Any additional info would be appreciated. Thanks.
I don't know where you are getting your parts, but Brassington GM located somewhere in FL advertizes to sell all GM OEM parts at 15% over their cost. They were much more competitive than other places I looked, even used parts from a salvage yard. I don't recall teh web address, but you should be able to find them with a search.
Yep the silverados are chrome. Took mine off and painted them blue
They are held in by 2 clips and 3m double sided tape.
Tape a butter knie slowly around the whole section and using a sawing motion to cut the tape. After going all around (slowly took me 10-15 mins a mirror to get em off). Then pop it off. To reinstall add tape and pop back on very simple
http://www.gmotors.com/
Is this the beginning of a nightmare car - endless problem, that cannot be resolved that will just get worse? We only have 12K miles on it...our brand new beautiful car looks not so great now (sorry if you are looking to buy one).
So...how do we get more information as to our options (yes, we have checked the lemon law) - who will help us and what does it take to get out of a car situation like this? It can't be fixed! Unbelieveable that we spent 40K for something like that.
Any advice or experience with this would be helpful. Please post! Thank you.
I know many pre 2001 (truck and suv) owners had their steering shafts replaced one sympton was a clunking when turning left.
However the tsb changed to lube the steering shaft. I had a new one put in about a yr ago in my silverado. Noise and feel was like night and day.
Ask them (dealer) if it could be the steering shaft
Anyone else out there have a rattling fuel line? I had my truck in 3x before I met someone else who had solved the same problem with their '02.
BTW, has anyone had a transmission failure on there '02? I drove mine 12 miles before 3rd & 4th gear disintegrated. Since the new tranny I've had slippage, rattles and something that sounds like a fan cycling on & off.
I've had the thing for 85 days and it's been in the shop for 11. I live in Boston and if my truck is in the shop for 3 more days I can apply for the lemon law. Believe it or not I love the truck. Just wish more of the parts were made in the US rather than Mexico.
I will take it back to the dealer and see what they say.
Should I even care about the difference?
Thanks
As for which one you have, it could be either. It will be listed on the window sticker as an option if you have the 4.10. If it is not listed as an option, you will find it in the standard equipment if it is the 3.73
If you don't still have the window sticker, it is also contained as a code in the VIN number, but I don't know which character or which code is which. Maybe someone else here does.
Sincerely thanks for the education, it was one thing that was annoying as I could not find anything to help me figure it out.
Would appreciate any feedback on these issue. Thanks
Jaw2000, No I'm not a teacher, but on the subject of gear ratios, I know quite a bit because I used to race a stock car at a local oval track. If you want to get real detailed, you can start looking a tire circumferences and how that affects the power available at the ground and maximizing the torque of the engine. But that goes way beyond what is needed for everyday driving.
I would appreciate any comments or suggestions before I make my final decision?
Any problems with the "Firestone Wilderness AT "tires that come standard on this vehicle?
Thanks
Will you be towing a heavy load or using it just
for general driving? Is it going to be your spouses vehicle or your commute vehicle? How are you planing on using your truck & what do you expect from it.
I'm sure all here will be glad to offer any assistance we can. I just took delivery of my
2500 on the 27th & received a lot of help right
here to that influenced my decision. Well write
back soon.
I will be purchasing the 1500, with 4 wheel drive.
I will not be doing any towing. I plan to drive the vehicle myself, basically every day for work and general purposes. Virtually all driving will be done on city and highway paved roads.
Also plan to take it on vacations.
I have two main reasons for buying this vehicle.
I wanted a larger vehicle to carry 5 or more.
Also, I have a significant back problem that prevents me from driving most vehicles. (I recently had to return a 2002 Buick LeSabre because of this.)
I tried many vehicles and I find the power lumbar and general support of the seats in the Yukon to be very good. I tried the seats of minivans made by all manufactures domestic and imported and found them to be inadequate as far as my back is concerned.
As I mentioned before I am considering the Yukon XL with the SLT trim level. I do not want the second row bucket seats as I prefer the extra seating offered by the 3- passenger folding seat that comes standard with the vehicle. I do not want the Denali version as it increases the price about $7 to $8 thousand in Canada and the bigger engine on the Denali uses significantly more gas.
Thanks again!
That is your only wise and safe bet -- and if you wish you can test them both.
Feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Mike
I had 24,000 miles on my Yukon when I traded it for the Sub Z71 and I never had it in for one repair. However, I am having a few tranny oddities with the new Sub that I might have the dealer check out. One is that the transmission seems to act differently than the Yukon tranny. When I park on an incline, even a slight incline (such as my driveway), after I put the vehicle in park and take my foot off the brake the vehicle will roll backwards. Sometimes a couple inches, sometimes as much as 5 or 6 inches, sometimes not at all. Secondly, sometimes I think I feel slippage in the transmission when I take off. Again, I never noticed these things in the Yukon which had the same rear end and tranny.
I have done a few modifications to the new Sub. I added a Go Rhino Sumatra 3000 brush guard with KC Slimlites to the front and Westin tail light protectors in the back. Also I bypassed the factory stereo with the wiring kit described at the Delphi site and the results are WAY better than the stock sound. I am kicking myself for never doing it in my old Yukon.
I would still like to raise the the front end a couple of inches to level the vehicle out a little but I am hesitant to screw around with the torsion bars because I am not sure what the repurcussions (if any) will be. I know somebody makes a torsion bar kit that will get you about 2". Has anyone installed this? Adjusting the stock bars will get you about an inch is what I hear. I would also like to install some type of reverse lights. Optimally in the round cut-outs of the cargo rack or under/near the receiver.
Intersted in seeing what others have done to their Subs/XLs.
The only thing I have done to my wife's '01 K2500HD Sub is to back into a parked car. One night, a visitor to the across the street neighbor parked on the street at my driveway. I backed into the car and bent the left bumper hard enough to dent the left quarter panel with the bumper. New bumper is $475 from GM. GMpartsdirect is $375 (all with out pads, etc). Junkyard bumper complete (pads, lights, etc) from a '00 GMC truck was $150. Three person job to install, 2 to hold while installing bolts.
Now for the backup sensor installation..Is this closing the barn door after the cow....?
This is not the kind of information that you seek!!!!
Replaced the Deathstones with Michelin LTX M/S 265-70x16 and installed Cord lighted running boards to replace the narrow factory boards
On my last Yukon I replaced the Firestone's with 17" wheels and Michelins off of the Denali. Since you have a 2500 series you don't have that luxury because I believe you have a different bolt pattern.
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
31K only one problem - left rear shock blew, dealer replaced. And leather drivers seatback wearing thin up near shoulder.
The changer is a unit made specific to work in GM cars/trucks. The changer has Rockford Fosgate on the door, but is actually made by the same company that makes them for GM. It runs through the radio controls w/o any problems with on-star or the tape deck, everything works in great harmony, no pun intended. Best of all you don't have that extra control hanging out on the dash, and the rear audio controls can run the changer it the main stereo is not using it. I installed it myself with only one problem, running the harness up to the rear of the radio head unit. I ended up using a coat hanger to fish the harness up to the rear of the radio.
The kit comes with the changer and interface cable, you will also need the cable to go from the radio to the changer, and the "Y" connector that will go into the back of the radio. I was told you can hook the "Y" to the tape deck also, if you don't want to pull the dash all apart.
http://www.mnrelectronics.com
Changer P/N 16231721
Harness P/N 12344015
"Y" adapt. call for info
I have the YXL and the bench flips and folds forward with a little stand thing to hold it up when you need to put something in the back, it comes out really easy and one person can do the job w/o incident.
The Yukon/Tahoe you can remove one or the other or both 3rd row seats, the problem I see in the Yukon/Tahoe is that the 3rs row is kid only territory. In the YXL I can have 2 adults and a child in the 3rd row no problems, I can't see that happening in the Tahoe/Yukon.