o2man, Bruce is right, you would want to go with a 205/50R15. I'd hate to be the one who has to mount those tires. There are a lot of off-brand tires in this size due to it's compatability with older VWs and Honda Civics (cars kids love to soup up). I'd lean toward a BFGoodrich tire if I were shopping in that price range. Just make sure you maintain your speed rating. A lot of the cheaper tires in this size are made for "cosmetic performance," which means they look like high performance tires but might only wear a speed rating of S or T. ----Chris
5spd, I have them and have been very pleased with their overall performance. They were among the top 3 rated tires in Consumer Reports' recent all-season tire tests. I chose them over the other two because of the BFG's better snow/ice performance.
Drew Host Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
I purchased it with 9K miles on it. Now, 18 months and 14K miles later (total of 23K miles) supposedly I "need new tires" according to the dealer (got 2 different opinions). They have worn more on the edges than in the middle, but the edges are still about 4/32 of a inch thick. I thought the "minimum" was 2/32. The middle has more tread.
I don't know who or how it was driven for the first 9K miles, but I can count the number of times my tires have spun on one hand (all due to snow and ice) for the last 14K. I don't drive them hard either, corners are taken with care at reasonable speeds, no excessive braking or skidding either.
Should I
a) overinflate my tires a little (from 33-35psi) so the middle wears slightly more than the edges and see how long I can drive with them? My commute is 3 miles so if anything goes wrong, it won't be a horrible day.
b) Get 4 new tires
c) Get 2 new tires (and put them on the front)
d) Get a "cheaper" tire. Currently the tires are Goodyear Eagle AS-A. Pretty expensive. Dealer wants $140 per tire.
e) other?
E-mail me at sr1154@yahoo.com if you have advice and are willing to take the time to respond, or post it here.
Ironically, the car still has 3 months left on its 3yr/36K mile bumper-to-bumper warranty.
but not at the dealers price. throw on some khumos if you want performance tires or throw on some bridgestone potenza RE92 if you want a slightly more all season tire. both cost 68 bucks each. and they are decent tires.
I wouldn't overinflate the tires. Besides, once a wear pattern is set it will usually continue. It sounds to me like you have a slight alignment problem. If the wear is on the outside edge the tires may be too toed in, if the wear is on the inside edge they may be too toed out.
At 4/32 you have plenty of thread left. I wouldn't rush into new tires but start shopping around and learn all you can. This way you can pick a tire that meets your needs and budget. I would also put a little money aside for a good alignment. No sense putting new tires on if they are going to wear out also.
Get a second opinion. You may need new tires because the ones you have are worn uneven due to misalignment or under-inflation, or have bad belts or sidewalls due to the above. Get someone who knows alignment and tire wear to fill you in on whether you need new tires and how to care for them.
With 4/32 inch left (if no other problems) you probably can postpone changing tires till fall. Though, be very cautious with rain. Hydroplaning can happen at speed as low as 35 mph with worn-out thread.
I had the experience last summer, going at 38 mph on worn-out tires. Was thrown through the yellow lines. Fortunately, exactly this moment there was a small break in the traffic in the opposite direction. But this was scary.
I like the look and price of this tire ($68 for 195/65/15 from tirerack). My only concern is its performance on snow (I live in Cen. NJ). Since it shares similar "wave tread" design with performace tire P6000 which doesn't provide snow traction. Thus I'd like to hear any comments/experiences about it. Feel free to drop me an email (chua20@home.com) Thank you
My car has 195/65/15 tires. Since I am getting a new set in another month, and I am wondering if I should use wider tires instead (205/60/15)? Is there a big difference between these 2 sizes (perofrmace, mileage, etc)? Also what are the ad./disadv. of using wider size? This will be my first non-OEM set and I am very excited! Thank you all once again
With all other things being equal, the wider tire will give a little better traction on dry payment, a little better handling and little better braking. The tradeoffs include, more hydroplaning in the wet, worse gas mileage.
Of course depending on the tire the advantages and disadvantages can change. I have seen some performance tires that were better in the rain than so called rain tires and some performance tires that were not so hot for anything except looks.
The snow traction with these isn't the best in the world. If snow is of major concern these would not be my first choice. For an occasional snowfall they'll work. Personally I would use the P 6000 regular tires in summer and use real snow tires in winter if I was in snow country again.
The technical aspects were touch on by namfflow so I won't go there. But since this is your 1st opportunity to try oversizing, you might as well give it a go. Whatever comes of it you will have the experience (good or bad) for the next time.
Personally, the difference in size you mention wouldn't convince me to change sizes. Going from an all season to a performance tire would make a bigger difference in how the tires feel. But going with that thought, why not go with the bigger size and a higher performance type tire?
My new Toyota Highlander SUV (225/70 SR 16 tires)should be here in 30 to 45 days and I'd like to upgrade the tires using the same wheels and same tire size. I've narrowed it down to these 2 Michelins but am having difficulty seeing a difference in what these 2 tires are designed for. I've looked at the Michelin and Tire Rack web sites. The LTX's have been around for years and are highly regarded. The Cross Terrain's are new (with newer, later technology and improvements?). I do almost no off road driving, just mostly long weekend winter trips in Northern Wisconsin and Michigan (snow & ice). Any thoughts on these 2 tires?
I recently purchased a Merecedes SLK with 16k miles on it. The front tires were shot. The outside edges on both tires were completely worn while the inside edges looked brand new. Initially I thought this was because the car had not been driven much during the last 8 months and the tires were almost 10# low on pressure. I replaced all four tires with BFG G-Force (kwds) and am concerned about the new tires wearing like the old. Do I need to have the alignment checked out also?
Definitely have the alignment checked. Outside edges being excessively worn is typical of a care where the toe is set too far in . What is happening is you are scrapping the tires on the edge. Imagine if you will, the tires are turned in toward the center of the care. as you go down the road you are pushing the tires across the pavement so the edges are wearing off. It also affects fuel economy and performance. You'll also find the car easier to drive after a good alignment.
Oh, and do it soon. If you start a wear pattern on the tires it will continue. In other words, they will wear just as if you didn't get it aligned.
In my opinion, it is worthwhile whenever buying new tires to spend a few extra bucks and have an alignment done.
I was comparing these two as well. Since the Cross Terrain is so new there isn't much consumer input or independent testing done yet. The tire is coming OEM on the new Explorer, MDX, and others so I'm sure as time goes by we'll hear more info.
From what I've been able to tell, the main benefits of the Cross Terrain is on road street performance. It looks to me like an SUV version of the Energy MXV4 Plus touring tire. It comes in big sizes but not LT or off-road.
The LTX M/S looks like an excellent all-around truck tire, good for most any driving condition both on and off road. If you look at the LTX line (A/S, M/S, A/T) the M/S fits in perfectly. The M/S can also be had in the "heavy duty version" for larger trucks and delivery vans.
Take a side by side look at the treads. The LTX is more open with more bite around each tread block. This will make the LTX better for snow.
I too looked at these tires and decided I wanted the more aggressive tread. I've found the Uniroyal Laredos that came OEM on my SUV didn't quite have enough bite in the deep stuff. The cross terrains look less aggressive, more like an all season tread. Therefore the conclusion that I would go with the more aggressive tread.
Wisconsin and northern Michigan? Guys that went to Michigan Tech say that that's hell frozen over. I'd go with the LTX.
The change from 60 series to 50 series will result in a height decrease of about 1 3/4" and a little more than 5' on circumference. What thios means is the speedometer will be off by about 5 mph at 60. In other words you will bve reading about 65 and really going 60. Also the 50 series will have a lower load rating. You do not want to go to a lower load rating.
I would suggest sticking with the 225/60 or if you want a 50 series go to a 265 or 275 tire. Of course, these may be way too wide for your car.
The 225/60 will be too large for the Grand Am; and the 225/50 will not adequately support the Regal, as nammflow said. The load index is found after the 16 and before the speed rating. Do not ever downgrade the load index. On a side note: both cars would look ridiculous.
If only the front tires are worn, and they are only worn on the shoulders (both sides of each individual tire equally), then it is the result of aggressive driving, lack of rotation, and probably underinflation--basically a total disregard for maintenance or care. If one side (either both outboard or both inboard) of each tire is worn more than the other, then it is a result of either camber or toe misadjustment. If misalignment is the case, you need to purchase new tires (preferably the same kind), then get a front-end alignment--in that order. If your shoulders are wore more than the center, and you still have 4/32, you do not need new tires. You seriously need a rotation, and you shouldn't need to overinflate the tires (while rotating) since the rear of the vehicle is lighter than the front. Tires are not unsafe until they reach 2/32 of tread depth. Tires which taper from, say 6/32 in the center to 4/32 on the shoulders would certainly not be unsafe. They would be fine on the rear, though I would not advise keeping them on the front because they are Goodyears, and therefore suck. Goodyears do not have full-depth sipes, and so lose most of their wet traction after the first 1/3 of tread is depleted. Depending on the design of the tread (I can't remember it offhand), inadequate void between the shoulder blocks might hinder water flow away from the tread (a common problem among tires with worn-out shoulders), inviting hydroplaning. In short: rotate them and keep an eye on the tread. If what you say is accurate, they are not unsafe. Plan on buying a new set of tires before the snow hits the ground. If you live in mild climate, don't worry about it until all of them average 3/32". And do not take your tire business to an auto dealer. That's like paying an electrician to replace a light bulb. Also, uneven wear from misalignment will continue its course, even if you get an alignment but fail to replace the tires. Uneven (but symmetrical) wear from inadequate pressure can correct itself, with proper attention. ---Chris
Hi Chris, thanks for your informative posts. Now I have a question for you myself. In under a couple of thousand kilometres I'm going to have to rotate the BFG Control T/A M65 tires on my '94 Grand Voyager LE AWD minivan (I'll be using the X rotation pattern, I think). Where would you suggest I place the 3 jack stands on the different locations of the vehicle? Obviously I can't use the jack mounting points since that's where I need to jack up the vehicle! Can I place the stands under the solid axle for the rear? How about the front wheels? No solid axle since it is an independent front suspension.
Would appreciate any tips or advice you can provide, Drew Host Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
i have a '00 celica GT that came with potenza RE92 195/60R15, i really want to put some wider tires on to increase braking and handling. Kumho makes some cheap 712 Supra 205/55R15 tires for 68 each and i was wondering if i would notice a big difference in snow grip with the kumho performance tires. would i be that much worse off with the kumhos than i am with the RE92 tires? i ask because i think these potenzas happen to be some cheap stuff, the only thing i like about them is that they dont squeal when they slip. i'm lookin at either some 205/55 kumho or 215/50 from dunlop. please let me know if you've had any experience with the RE92 and whether it can get much worse than that because these tires are pretty bad in the snow and rain in my very light car. i know that 215/50 will be a [non-permissible content removed] to put on my wheels but i will be doing it myself in someone's shop so i dont really care tht much. let me know what you think. thanks.
It looks like the two tires that your are considering are summer tires (I am not sure which Dunlops you are considering). Summer tires usually have better dry traction, decent wet traction, and horrible snow traction. If you want one set of tires for all conditions, I would suggest buying all-season tires that are rated for the snow.
If I were in your position, I would consider buying larger rims for wider summer tires, and then I would put some snow tires on your stock rims. That way you can easily switch between tires that are good in the dry and tires that are good in the snow, instead of having to accept the compromises required to make a tire good in both the dry and the snow.
Since it sounds like you have easy access to tire changing equipment, you could probably buy a set of snow and summer tires, and swap them on the stock rims.
As a disclaimer, I am not any sort of expert on tires, so take my comments with a grain of salt.
Thanks for confirming my suspicions (post #466). I had the alignment checked this morning and the previous owner had hit something and knocked it out of alignment. You are right it does handle better also. It was $42 well spent.
Go to Tire Rack and look at snowies for the Celica in maybe 195/65-15 or something with a higher aspect ratio than 60 series.
The idea of two sets of wheels/tires is a good one. This whole discussion of "RE92's in the snow versus Kumho's in the snow compared to Dunlops that don't squeal and yadda yadda" is something no one will ever know because it all depends.
One set of wheels and tires for dry weather handling and performance - one set for winter driving.
Drew, Personally, I wouldn't advise using the X-pattern on your minivan. I think this is a lot more effective on rear/four-wheel-drives, than on all-wheel-drives (baised front). You're better off doing a straight up, front-to-back rotation. Also, this would be a lot easier, since you only have to lift a side at a time. You can use the rear axle for a stand point, just keep the stands as far outboard as practical (obviously). Then you can use the scissors jack on the jackpoints in the front. In my experience, the front-to-back method is the best way to prolong tire life for this type of vehicle. But if you really want to do the X pattern, then I'd suggest raising the rear of the vehicle, placing jack stands at both ends of the rear axle; lifting one front side with the scissors jack at the jackpoint; and the other by using a floor jack, lifting from under the coil spring on the control arm. Use the utmost care when working with a vehicle supported by the scissors jack. They are not at all stable, having an inherent tendancy to topple over. Jackstands, when placed properly (with a frame allowing such), are nearly as stable as the wheels themselves. And having two floor jacks in the front would make the undertaking much less risky. The factory jack is really best saved for emergencies. Not that you would do this, drew, but to everyone else out there, unless you're using an impact tool, don't forget to turn each lug nut 1/4 turn while the vehicle is still resting on all four tires. There are few things more frustrating than getting a vehicle up in the air only to realize you forgot to break the torque. Usually the parking break won't provide adequate friction to complete this task in the air. And it's certainly not the kind of force you want to exert on a vehicle teetering on jackstands and a scissors jack. Also: do not place jackstands anywhere on the pinch weld (along the rockers) or you will crumple it with the introduction of the weight of the van. And when lifting a corner at a time, don't raise the vehicle any higher than necessary to remove the tire. Excessive unevenness is dangerous. For example: if you already had the rear wheels up, and then overjacked the left front before lifting the right front, weight would shift from the left rear to the right rear. You always want weight to be as evenly distributed among the four tires as possible. But really, there is another way to rotate tires which doesn't even require a lift and is extrememly safe. First, take the seats out. Then, fill the entire van with helium balloons and cap off the intake and exhaust. Roll it into a lake. Once it's floating, rotate the tires underwater. Just make sure you break the lug nut torque before launching. This is really tough to do while afloat. When you're done, simply tow it ashore. No, actually the safest and easiest way is to go to Sam's, find the guy in the blue shirt, toss him the keys and say "JUST DO IT." --------Chris
my new caravan has 15 inch tires i know the same caravan with the sport touring group comes with 16 inch tires.by puting the 16 inch tires on my van will i be doing any damage to my suspension.will the ride oy the caravan change?im not sure if the suspension is different.well for 700 dollars thats for the larger tires and alloy wheels i would think your suspension would not be different. are there any experts in this area.
Changing from 15 to 16 on the caravan won't hurt anything as long as you choose a 16" tire that will give you the same outside diameter as your 15" tires.
For example, if your 15" tires are 215/70-15" then you could use a 215/65-16"
Not sure what tire size you have now but any reputable shop should be able to help you select a proper size.
Hi everyone. This is my first time at the Town Hall. I have an issue with my Goodyear Tires and Volkswagon that I would like to post (if not posted already). I have a '00 Volkswagon Jetta GLS. It is outfitted with Goodyear 196/65/R15 Eagle AS tires. I have serviced the car at various dealerships in the Baltimore area since purchased (5K, 10K, 15K, 20K, 25K, 20K, 35K). Presently, it has 33,000. I brought it in for a 5,000 mile service prematurely for two reasons: 1) the oil seemed low and 2) there is a vibration in my steering wheel and when coming to a stop I feel a cyclic bump in the ride. I only noticed a problem at around 30,500 miles. I thought it was my brakes or the rotor so I has the dealership check out my brake for a charge, of course. They inspected my car and informed me that my brakes were fine BUT I needed new tires. Apparently, these tires were involved in a Technical Bulletin issued by Goodyear. There are issues with a premature centerline and uneven cupping. Per Volkswagon, if the problem was staed prior to 25,000, the tires would be replaced at no charge to the customer. After that, you must go to a Goodyear Retailer have them inspected and you will receive a credit based on the tread and the mileage. Per Goodyear, the credit can only go toward the purchase of their tires. Ofcourse, I won't be patronizing Goodyear and I am disgusted with Volkswagon because I have had many problems. My only recourse is to go to Costco (which is just like SAMS) and get the tires I always wanted/preferred- the Michelin MXV4s. Any thoughts anyone? Thanks...
Also look for the optional 17" wheel & tire package that came on '99 and '00 Caravan Sport's. They have the 5-hole design and I've seen them chromed and painted.
If you can find a set of "take-off's" at a tire shop or on e-Bay or something, you'll have a trick factory-looking upgrade for minimum $$.
Well, you might want to consider the financial issues before tossing the Goodyear's. If the retailer will give you a nice credit towards something else you might get away with a nice $$ savings.
The Michelin's are a great choice, just expensive. The Energy MXV4 Plus is very comparable to the Eagle LS. Or you can upgrade to the XGTH4 or V4 for more performance. But you'll be looking at the big end of $100/tire.
i have a 2001 GLS, with the Goodyears and I wanted the Michelines, I had heard bad news about the Eagles, exactly what was wrong with your car that you took it in and they said it was your tires? Also, had you noticed it before 25000 miles what would VW have done? Also, I to feel a pretty harsh vibration while idling at a light or just in park(i have an auto trnas) but when i put it in neutral it stops. And when I come to a stop I to feel a thump and hear a bump coming from the rear of the car, its like the gas is crashing against the tank, si this what u had, and if so was it the tires fault?
I only got 23K out of a set because the wet road grip became marginal.
I replaced them with Michelin X-ones. Much better steering reponse and wear. I had the MXV4s on a different car but gladly go with the X-ones because of superior wear. The trade off is the MXV4s ride more smoothly. The other differences aren't really noticeable.
New to this aspect of the Townhall. I'm contemplating some new tires for my 2000 Intrepid ES. Does anyone have experience with the new Aquatred 3? Any thoughts and experiences are appreciated..
Thanks for the info everyone. I know I'm going with Michelins. Blackjetta18t1, what peeked my concern is that a) at speeds starting at 40 mph, there was a slight vibration in the steering wheel and 2) when coming to a complete stop I felt a slight vibration in the brake pedal and a cyclic bump occuring either in the brake/rotor or the wheel/ground. Per the dealer, he stated that you can notice "bumps" in the tire. There are none noticeable in my tires. He stated and also per the Technical Bulletin, if you possess these issues with the Goodyear Tires Eagle LS 195/65/R15 DOT#M6AEHT and you car has less than 25K miles, VW shall replace your tires free of charge. In my instance, I have surpassed the 25K, so a Goodyear Retailer must inspect. Bretfraz, I realize the difference in price, per Goodyear the replacement tires which I believe are the Goodyear OE retail at $173. I assume the credit won't be good but I am still following up with Goodyear... though I have a real distrust for them. Goodyear has already stated the credit must go toward the purchase of Goodyear tires at a Retailer. Also, blackjetta18t1, I have the same issue with the thump when stopped at a light or when warming my car up in the morning. This is another issue that VW has to address. They tested my car and saw "no problem". I like driving the VW but since I have had the car it has been one issue after next (stress fracture in windshield, bad indicator relay,-replaced front black grill falling off, the MFI indicator going on two seperate occasions leading to the replacment of the O2 and air flow indicators, low oil consistently (dealership performing oil consumption test), ABS becoming disabled during major snow storm which lead to me slipping and sliding down the street, now the tires, also my CD changer acts up... Options-wise, the JETTA is great but there are some inherent problems that I now believe it's not just my car. Thanks everyone...
Michelin Pilots rock! Stick to the road like glue, wear really well, not too noisy. They seem pricey at first (about $100 for a 215/65R15), but after you've had 'em for a while, it seems like money well spent.
I've got a quick question regarding highway & all terrain tires. I've got a 3/4 ton GM truck that came with the 245/75/16E Firestone Steeltex Radial A/T (all terrain) tires. They have about 4000 miles on them. I've just gotten a really good deal on two extra "take-off" wheels for this truck. (Last truck went through a broken wheel or two so I'm picking these up now when "take-off" wheels with almost no mileage are in good supply). The new wheels come with the Firestone Steeltex Radial R4S 245/75/16E. Although I am not a big fan of the Firestone tires, this truck will go through them quick enough that I thought it might make sense to do a six tire rotation until I go through them all and then just store the extra wheels until they are needed. Since both of these tires were OEM on this truck (the A/T's were the option) and are the same tire I don't think there will be a problem as long as I keep the same type of tire on the same axle. The A/T''s are .2" greater in diameter, but with the 4000 miles on them they are now probably all the same size. Checking Firestone's info on the two tires does not disclose any major differences in construction other than tread design. Does anyone know of any major problems (other than risking getting stuck in the mud) in running one axle with the R4S and the other with the A/T's? If not, is one set better off on the front than the other?
BTW just replaced worn out 25k Pirelli 6000 (OEM on Volvo) with Michelin MXV4 Plus XSE and can't say enough about the Michelin ride and handling. Also got 50k mileage warranty on the Michelin's from NTB. Didn't think anyone warrantied the Michelins anymore, but I'm not complaining or arguing.
Hi all, i'm now using Potenza S-02 on my '96 BMW 328. but it's time to replace the tires. anyone has recommendation or comments on these 3 tires?! i personally like Yokohama AVS Sport, they are quiet and more comfortable. but it's expensive, around $260 each. for Pirelli P7000, i heard that they perform nearly the same, but they are noisy and not as comfortable as the other two. but they costs only $160 each. any comments would help. thanks a lot. Jeff
also, the tire size is 225/40ZR/18. and which one will last longer?! i'm not a "racing" type driver. i prefer the appearance of the car better. thanks again!! Jeff
Just got a new set of Michelin Cross Terrain Tires from Costco for my 98 Explorer, EB, 4x2, and cannot believe how much an improvement I now have when compared to the 16" Firestone Wilderness AT Tires which came with the Explorer. I found myself doing 80 MPH on the expressway not looking at the speedo. Great ride, no road noise or vibration, and great grip. Now I need to replace my shocks with the Edelbrock IAS Shocks for a complete job. Things cannot get anybetter. Highly recommend them. Cost slightly more than the Michelin LTXs, but these tires were specifically made for SUVs.
I'm considering replacing my OEM Bridgestone Dueler HT D687 (101S) rated 300, B, B on my new Toyota Highlander. I'm considering Michelin Cross Terrains or LTXs. I've cooled my jets since 6 of 6 tire store folks said this was a bonehead thing to do and a waste of money. What do you folks say? I need good wet grip and decent snow traction for 15-16 ski days in the snow and 6 days of snow up my incredibly steep road. Basically, a Pacific NW profile for on-road light SUV use. Thanks, Tom
Comments
Bruce is right, you would want to go with a 205/50R15. I'd hate to be the one who has to mount those tires. There are a lot of off-brand tires in this size due to it's compatability with older VWs and Honda Civics (cars kids love to soup up). I'd lean toward a BFGoodrich tire if I were shopping in that price range. Just make sure you maintain your speed rating. A lot of the cheaper tires in this size are made for "cosmetic performance," which means they look like high performance tires but might only wear a speed rating of S or T.
----Chris
Are they reasonably good tires for the money ?
Drew
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I purchased it with 9K miles on it. Now, 18 months and 14K miles later (total of 23K miles) supposedly I "need new tires" according to the dealer (got 2 different opinions). They have worn more on the edges than in the middle, but the edges are still about 4/32 of a inch thick. I thought the "minimum" was 2/32. The middle has more tread.
I don't know who or how it was driven for the first 9K miles, but I can count the number of times my tires have spun on one hand (all due to snow and ice) for the last 14K. I don't drive them hard either, corners are taken with care at reasonable speeds, no excessive braking or skidding either.
Should I
a) overinflate my tires a little (from 33-35psi) so the middle wears slightly more than the edges and see how long I can drive with them? My commute is 3 miles so if anything goes wrong, it won't be a horrible day.
b) Get 4 new tires
c) Get 2 new tires (and put them on the front)
d) Get a "cheaper" tire. Currently the tires are Goodyear Eagle AS-A. Pretty expensive. Dealer wants $140 per tire.
e) other?
E-mail me at sr1154@yahoo.com if you have advice and are willing to take the time to respond, or post it here.
Ironically, the car still has 3 months left on its 3yr/36K mile bumper-to-bumper warranty.
tireguy might have better advice for ya.
peace.
At 4/32 you have plenty of thread left. I wouldn't rush into new tires but start shopping around and learn all you can. This way you can pick a tire that meets your needs and budget. I would also put a little money aside for a good alignment. No sense putting new tires on if they are going to wear out also.
I had the experience last summer, going at 38 mph on worn-out tires. Was thrown through the yellow lines. Fortunately, exactly this moment there was a small break in the traffic in the opposite direction. But this was scary.
P.S. How to paste photograph along with message?
Chris
Of course depending on the tire the advantages and disadvantages can change. I have seen some performance tires that were better in the rain than so called rain tires and some performance tires that were not so hot for anything except looks.
Personally, the difference in size you mention wouldn't convince me to change sizes. Going from an all season to a performance tire would make a bigger difference in how the tires feel. But going with that thought, why not go with the bigger size and a higher performance type tire?
Oh, and do it soon. If you start a wear pattern on the tires it will continue. In other words, they will wear just as if you didn't get it aligned.
In my opinion, it is worthwhile whenever buying new tires to spend a few extra bucks and have an alignment done.
From what I've been able to tell, the main benefits of the Cross Terrain is on road street performance. It looks to me like an SUV version of the Energy MXV4 Plus touring tire. It comes in big sizes but not LT or off-road.
The LTX M/S looks like an excellent all-around truck tire, good for most any driving condition both on and off road. If you look at the LTX line (A/S, M/S, A/T) the M/S fits in perfectly. The M/S can also be had in the "heavy duty version" for larger trucks and delivery vans.
Buick and Pontiac should be compatible right?
I too looked at these tires and decided I wanted the more aggressive tread. I've found the Uniroyal Laredos that came OEM on my SUV didn't quite have enough bite in the deep stuff. The cross terrains look less aggressive, more like an all season tread. Therefore the conclusion that I would go with the more aggressive tread.
Wisconsin and northern Michigan? Guys that went to Michigan Tech say that that's hell frozen over. I'd go with the LTX.
link
Sorry, Firestone, we're out of sympathy.
link
Firestone tries to reassure public with ad campaign.
link
Steve
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I would suggest sticking with the 225/60 or if you want a 50 series go to a 265 or 275 tire. Of course, these may be way too wide for your car.
Check out www.gp-owners.com as there are a lot of Regal GS people there and lots of people have changed to different aspect ratios.
On a side note: both cars would look ridiculous.
If misalignment is the case, you need to purchase new tires (preferably the same kind), then get a front-end alignment--in that order.
If your shoulders are wore more than the center, and you still have 4/32, you do not need new tires. You seriously need a rotation, and you shouldn't need to overinflate the tires (while rotating) since the rear of the vehicle is lighter than the front. Tires are not unsafe until they reach 2/32 of tread depth. Tires which taper from, say 6/32 in the center to 4/32 on the shoulders would certainly not be unsafe. They would be fine on the rear, though I would not advise keeping them on the front because they are Goodyears, and therefore suck. Goodyears do not have full-depth sipes, and so lose most of their wet traction after the first 1/3 of tread is depleted. Depending on the design of the tread (I can't remember it offhand), inadequate void between the shoulder blocks might hinder water flow away from the tread (a common problem among tires with worn-out shoulders), inviting hydroplaning.
In short: rotate them and keep an eye on the tread. If what you say is accurate, they are not unsafe. Plan on buying a new set of tires before the snow hits the ground. If you live in mild climate, don't worry about it until all of them average 3/32". And do not take your tire business to an auto dealer. That's like paying an electrician to replace a light bulb.
Also, uneven wear from misalignment will continue its course, even if you get an alignment but fail to replace the tires. Uneven (but symmetrical) wear from inadequate pressure can correct itself, with proper attention.
---Chris
Would appreciate any tips or advice you can provide,
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
It looks like the two tires that your are considering are summer tires (I am not sure which Dunlops you are considering). Summer tires usually have better dry traction, decent wet traction, and horrible snow traction. If you want one set of tires for all conditions, I would suggest buying all-season tires that are rated for the snow.
If I were in your position, I would consider buying larger rims for wider summer tires, and then I would put some snow tires on your stock rims. That way you can easily switch between tires that are good in the dry and tires that are good in the snow, instead of having to accept the compromises required to make a tire good in both the dry and the snow.
Since it sounds like you have easy access to tire changing equipment, you could probably buy a set of snow and summer tires, and swap them on the stock rims.
As a disclaimer, I am not any sort of expert on tires, so take my comments with a grain of salt.
Tom
http://www.tsw.com/trophycelica1.htm
Go to Tire Rack and look at snowies for the Celica in maybe 195/65-15 or something with a higher aspect ratio than 60 series.
The idea of two sets of wheels/tires is a good one. This whole discussion of "RE92's in the snow versus Kumho's in the snow compared to Dunlops that don't squeal and yadda yadda" is something no one will ever know because it all depends.
One set of wheels and tires for dry weather handling and performance - one set for winter driving.
Personally, I wouldn't advise using the X-pattern on your minivan. I think this is a lot more effective on rear/four-wheel-drives, than on all-wheel-drives (baised front). You're better off doing a straight up, front-to-back rotation. Also, this would be a lot easier, since you only have to lift a side at a time. You can use the rear axle for a stand point, just keep the stands as far outboard as practical (obviously). Then you can use the scissors jack on the jackpoints in the front. In my experience, the front-to-back method is the best way to prolong tire life for this type of vehicle.
But if you really want to do the X pattern, then I'd suggest raising the rear of the vehicle, placing jack stands at both ends of the rear axle; lifting one front side with the scissors jack at the jackpoint; and the other by using a floor jack, lifting from under the coil spring on the control arm.
Use the utmost care when working with a vehicle supported by the scissors jack. They are not at all stable, having an inherent tendancy to topple over. Jackstands, when placed properly (with a frame allowing such), are nearly as stable as the wheels themselves. And having two floor jacks in the front would make the undertaking much less risky. The factory jack is really best saved for emergencies.
Not that you would do this, drew, but to everyone else out there, unless you're using an impact tool, don't forget to turn each lug nut 1/4 turn while the vehicle is still resting on all four tires. There are few things more frustrating than getting a vehicle up in the air only to realize you forgot to break the torque. Usually the parking break won't provide adequate friction to complete this task in the air. And it's certainly not the kind of force you want to exert on a vehicle teetering on jackstands and a scissors jack.
Also: do not place jackstands anywhere on the pinch weld (along the rockers) or you will crumple it with the introduction of the weight of the van. And when lifting a corner at a time, don't raise the vehicle any higher than necessary to remove the tire. Excessive unevenness is dangerous. For example: if you already had the rear wheels up, and then overjacked the left front before lifting the right front, weight would shift from the left rear to the right rear. You always want weight to be as evenly distributed among the four tires as possible.
But really, there is another way to rotate tires which doesn't even require a lift and is extrememly safe. First, take the seats out. Then, fill the entire van with helium balloons and cap off the intake and exhaust. Roll it into a lake. Once it's floating, rotate the tires underwater. Just make sure you break the lug nut torque before launching. This is really tough to do while afloat. When you're done, simply tow it ashore.
No, actually the safest and easiest way is to go to Sam's, find the guy in the blue shirt, toss him the keys and say "JUST DO IT."
--------Chris
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
For example, if your 15" tires are 215/70-15" then you could use a 215/65-16"
Not sure what tire size you have now but any reputable shop should be able to help you select a proper size.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
They have the 5-hole design and I've seen them chromed and painted.
If you can find a set of "take-off's" at a tire shop or on e-Bay or something, you'll have a trick factory-looking upgrade for minimum $$.
The Michelin's are a great choice, just expensive. The Energy MXV4 Plus is very comparable to the Eagle LS. Or you can upgrade to the XGTH4 or V4 for more performance. But you'll be looking at the big end of $100/tire.
What kind of credit will Goodyear offer?
I replaced them with Michelin X-ones. Much better steering reponse and wear. I had the MXV4s on a different car but gladly go with the X-ones because of superior wear. The trade off is the MXV4s ride more smoothly. The other differences aren't really noticeable.
BTW just replaced worn out 25k Pirelli 6000 (OEM on Volvo) with Michelin MXV4 Plus XSE and can't say enough about the Michelin ride and handling. Also got 50k mileage warranty on the Michelin's from NTB. Didn't think anyone warrantied the Michelins anymore, but I'm not complaining or arguing.
i'm now using Potenza S-02 on my '96 BMW 328. but it's time to replace the tires. anyone has recommendation or comments on these 3 tires?! i personally like Yokohama AVS Sport, they are quiet and more comfortable. but it's expensive, around $260 each. for Pirelli P7000, i heard that they perform nearly the same, but they are noisy and not as comfortable as the other two. but they costs only $160 each. any comments would help. thanks a lot.
Jeff
Jeff
Thanks,
Tom