Is it true that high performance tires tend to follow the road?? I have the Toyo proxes T1-Ss that I used last summer with no problems. This summer after I put them back on, I've noticed that my car is hadling very poorly (it's a 98 prelude) - if follows the road rather than my steering input and I really have to use a lot of force to keep the car going where I want it to go. Even my wrists and arms hurt now (not funny). I've got the allignment done but there's no diff. My tire shop tells me that it's the tires, but I find i hard to belive that cause they were ok last summer and anyway what they are doing now is completely unexceptable. The tires are in perfect condition in terms of tread wear, etc. One thing I've noticed is that the allignment specs that they used do not match the factory specs, but they claim it's not possible to allign a 3 yrs old car to factory specs and they use their own judgement/experience. Could anyone tell me what could be wrong here? Thank you for reading.
What you described sounds as a safety problem for me. Ask a good mechanic for the second opinion. Not on tires only - it can be something else than tires that influenced the steering.
Naturally, the very reason for using performance tires is improved handling. Who needs performance tires for driving on straight line only?
well make sure the toe is set to Zero on the front. no reason fro a 3 year old front wheel drive car to have anyother toe setting but 0 and generally 0 in the back aswell.
guys, i have a question. do you know of any tire that comes in 215/55R15? im looking for a performance all season tire that has the same diameter as my stock tires but there are none. the 215/55 would be the closest, then 225/50 but i dont really want to go that wide. has anyone ever had or seen a 215/55R15 tire?
Probably costs about the same at local Firestone, after accounting for shipping, handling, and installation. $5-$7 difference or so per tire. Does pay for convenience.
Add to this about $70-$80 or so for alignment and road hazard warranty.
By the way, the SH-30 tires are the best in customer satisfaction in its category, according to the Tirerack survey:
The 205 looks like a good replacement for the 195. Just check the rim width recommendation for the 205 to make sure you rim is wide enough. I've had the older MXV4 tires in the past and the Pilot XGT H4 now. The Pilots are much better in the rain and dry, and are also quite quiet. Another tire that might be worth looking at is the new Bridgstone 950. I suspect the Michelin would be better in the snow though.
A probable reason why the shop "estimated" the alignment settings for the Prelude is that they thought there is wear on some of the suspension components, especially the shocks and struts. Most shocks/struts are worn out at 40,000 miles or so. Even if they are still going boing-boing-boing, they just aren't doing the job anymore. A good suspension tech can adjust for this but sometimes it's not worth the effort.
Has there been any other suspension mods like lowering springs or something? That'll have an effect as well.
I have family and several friends who work in the aftermarket wheel and tire industry. I can recall hanging out at their shops and customers would come in wanting some kind of work done, and the shop turning them away. It was always some young dude who's car needed so much other work to be done to make it safe and driveable that it was too much of a business risk to do whatever the guy was asking for (e.g. a guy in a MR2 wants his car lowered. The shop refused the work as his shocks and struts were blitzed and other suspension parts were worn out. He wanted to look cool but his car was a POS underneath. When he was told what his car needed, he about fell over. When he insisted the work be done, they sent him on his way).
I wonder which of your alignment specs do not match the factory settings. There is very little chance your problem is related to the tires. And I doubt that the toe adjustment had any affect on this problem, and camber shouldn't be an issue here, since it's not pulling to one side. What I would look at is the third aspect of tire alignment which is most often overlooked: caster (angle formed by the steering axis relative to a vertical line drawn through the center of the wheel). Every car has a slight positive caster. This is what causes the wheel to center when you drive forward (like the front wheels of a shopping cart). Most late models have a very little positive caster. High performance tires do not follow the road, but they do amplify whatever problems may exist in your steering or suspension. There is a chance your caster angle could have been upset during the winter months, and you're just realizing it now with your summer tires. Take your car to a more reputable alignment shop, like the Honda dealership. Good luck. --Chris
I hope you're not still driving on those tires as I post this, but, the answer to your question is yes. When you can see the threads of your sidewall through a cut, it's a good time to replace the tire. And when you start to hear the rivets scoring your brake rotors, it's a good time to change your break pads. And when your exhaust pipe rusts through and everything from your catalytic back goes tumbling into the car behind you, it's a good time to start looking at new mufflers. And when you have so many cracks in your windshield, you find yourself wiping the bugs off your forehead... getting the picture?
Every ounce of your vehicle's mass is supported by those thin rubber and polyester sidewalls. Their ability to do that is directly related to their ability to hold air. When the steel belt is puctured by a nail or other debris, the structural integrity of the tire is mantained, and you can usually muscle the vehicle to the shoulder. The more delicate sidewall behaves differently. When a tire has a weak spot in the sidewall, the eventual result is a catastrophic failure more scary than skidding off a cliff (but likely involving that). It is known in the tire world as a ZIPPER. Some external force causes a small laceration to instantly zip around the circumference of the tire, completely separating one sidewall from the tread. It happens in the blink of an eye, and you will not be able to control the vehicle if it's a front tire. If this event occurs at highway speeds, you have a 50/50 chance of survival. Can you spare the $40 for a new tire? ---Chris
Of the two tires you've mentioned, I'd go with the RE950. It's a decent directional tire. Some seasoned tire sales vetrans believe Bridgestone-Firestone makes the best tires you can buy. I am not one of them (by virtue of the latter criterion). But I won't deny the company makes a product better than the negative press they've received leads one to believe. I don't know what kind of car you drive and I don't know what you value in a tire, so I would be amiss to make a recommendation. But... If you've read any of my previous posts, you know I'm a Michelin man. I'm assuming you need at least an H-rated tire, so the X-One is out. The 195/65R15 MXV4 Plus (exactly what my '00 Jetta 1.8T currently wears) is a good tire: glassy-smooth ride, extremely quiet. If you want better handling, as Mr. Corvette is discovering, the Michelin Pilot XGT H4 is an extremely impressive tire, and not all that expensive (you would most likely want to go with the 205/60 if enhanced performance is what you seek). That will probably be my choice when the MXV4s wear out. I don't spend as much time on this site as I would like (or as I used to), but I'll try to respond to any further correspondances in a timely manner. ---Chris
You really can't go wrong with any of them. The Pilot will handle the best, the X-One will last the longest, and the Symmetry is the best for the money. Sorry I don't have anything revolutionary to say on the matter. Obviously you know enough about tires to have narrowed the selection so tightly. The only question that remans is: what do you want out of your tires? In the short run, the Symmetry is a great value for a low price. In the long run, the ratio of mileage-to-dollar makes the X-One an extremely inexpensive tire, with no sacrifices whatsoever. And in the world of high-performance luxury touring, the Pilot line has no equal. You're looking at three very different tires. Just give it some thought. Consider your driving habits, usual weather/road conditions, how long you want to keep the car, if it's really worth it TO YOU to pay for Pilot performance, or if that $100-$300 would be put to better use elsewhere in your budget. ---Chris
The fact that your tires felt "sloshy" had absolutely nothing to do with the increased width. This effect can only be due to low pressure or poor design (cheap tires). Had you gone with the same model, same speed rating, same diameter, inflated to the same pressure, but one size wider, the only way the ride could be made "sloshier" would be driving home on the wet grass. Some aspect obviously wasn't maintained at the minumum level.
The tires should fit. All of you questions can be answered by consulting an RMA (Rubber Manufacturer's Association) fitment guide. Every tire shop in America has one stuffed under a desk. It's a 4"x6" paperback with some random sponsor's (tire company) logo. Ask to see one. Check the table of contents for the tire and rim charts. This will tell you which tires fit on which rims. You might even be able to get one off the Internet. I used to have one lying around, but I don't know what I did with it.
You've been great help. No, the car has not been lowered. None of the allignment specs match the factory specs, some are way off. That's why I wanted another opinion, thank you all. I'll try another allignment place. BTW, a Honda dealership is the last place I'd take my car to - they don't know a thing (at least all 3 of them in my area), can't even do a regular service right.
Thanks for the advice. When the time comes, I will probably get the Pilots. I wouldn't mind a firmer ride, especially in exchange for better traction. I've driven another car with the Michelin Pilots (on 16" wheels) and found it comfortable.
Thanks, I've been running the full-size spare in it's place.
BTW, the sarcasm is not necessary: I'm the 1 in 1000 that checks tire pressure weekly, lug nut torque regularly, and actually inspect tires (both sides) monthly.
What would you replace Firestone Steeltex AT with? 265-75-16 Load range D. Between BFG AT KO's or Goodyear AT/S. Would you go up a size? 285's What about Michelin LTX M/S? Michelin does not make a D rated A/T tire. The Firestones have a low rating on surveys. They are wearing good but ride very hard. Snow traction is OK, but I don't like them in rain.
The tires I got were Dayton tires and everything was in order when I left but right away, I felt a difference in the way the steering felt. The tires were unidirectional if that means anything. I put 185/65/14 Dayton's on and the car immediately felt like it did with the old Michelin MX4's. Guess I learned a valuable lesson, don't fix what ain't broke!
my current tires... potenza RE92's have a max psi rating of 44psi. i am looking at a set of toyo proxes FZ4 225/50R15 tires and im almost sold but what bothers me is that the max psi is 35. the max load is higher than the potenza's but the psi is lower. what does this mean? should i be concerned about the drop in max psi? thanks. here's the link if you want to look at the tire and the specs http://www.toyo.com/tires/tire_lines/high_perf/fz4.html
If the Toyo tire has a lower max psi and a higher max load rating, it means it has a stiffer/stronger construction (probably more plys in the sidewall). I would expect it to have more responsive steering and possibly a somewhat harsher ride. This is typical of high performance tires.
Just popped by my local tire outlet and, via salesman's comments, found these. All season radial with the following ratings: treadwear 420, traction A, temperature B, 60K limited warranty.
He mentioned they were a "pre-market" brand of Michelin's and I just wanted to see if anyone else out there has any experience with these. For $47/tire (includes stems, balance, disposal, etc.) it seems like a pretty good deal as they're going on a Neon so high performance isn't really an issue, just good traction in wet weather.
i just called the local Nitto dealer and he told me that a set of Nitto NT 450 tires would be a whopping $144 per tire. "installation free". and i look on the website, tires.com, and i see that these tires are actually $89 dollars from them. paying almost $50 dollars more per tire is a little steep just to have them mounted and banced. what do i tell this guy?
can a different tire shop that is not listed as a Nitto dealer order these tires for me or does nitto only distribute to authorized dealers? i have definally totally made up my mind. these are the tires i want. it took me a month and a half to decide and now i find out they're almost twice as expensive as any other tire i was considering. what can i do?
Brucer, thanks for info.
rustytruck, ask any autocross racer if a performance tire isnt an issue on a neon. that car has a cult following by racers. the tires u describe sound like a bargain. i think tires are some of the most important parts of a car, to go with the cheapest thing out there is the last thing i would do but if you drive very cautiously all the time then you will never notice the differece between those tires and the ones you have on now.
I think the Nitto's will be fine but I had the Toyo Proxes FZ4's on my former Maxima and thought they were great. Several years ago I had the old Toyo F1 ultra-performance tire on my Mustang GT and those things were awesome. I think the F1 was discontinued (this was in 1992).
My Nitto experience was good as well but if it were my choice, I'd go Toyo. I totally trust them.
They're made by Medalist which offers several lines of tires. Cientra's are the broad line passenger car tires. Here's a clip:
CIENTRA PLUS Designed for outstanding overall performance, the Cientra Plus is an intermediate all-season radial featuring touring sizes for imports and domestic cars from subcompacts to luxury sedans. The Cientra Plus also provides year-round performance, dependability, responsive handling, long tread life, comfort and unique styling.
Usually its pretty easy for me to find who makes, or at least markets, an off-brand like Medalist. But I can't find info on this one.
No biggie. Looks like Medalist Cientra is carried by E-Tires, Henise Tire, Tires2You, Midwest Tire, and a number of other joints.
did you have the NT 450 tires? the thing is i live in nyc and i need a tire for rain and snow and ice and hot dry summers. and i want it to perform when it's dry and to be safe in the other conditions. why did you not like the nittos compared to the toyos? be more specific... tread wear, overall wet and dry grip, turn in, cornering grip, noise, harshness, snow performance, how did they stack up against each other? give me something more specific. i'd really appreciate it. thanks!
and, how much did they cost? what size? thanks again.
The Nitto's were installed on a show van I was involved with (a special project with my employer). I didn't buy or choose the Nittos but I did drive on them extensively. I used them in 90% dry conditions and 10% rain. They worked fine for both conditions. The van never saw snow and ice. Actually, I wasn't supposed to drive it in the rain (expensive paint job).
Sorry but I can't provide additional details as you've requested. My experience is limited solely to seat time.
My experience with the Toyo's is much more extensive as they were on my personal car. I used them on a Maxima I owned while living in Chicago but I never drove on them in snow and ice. I had a separate set of wheels and tires for winter driving so the Toyo's were used maybe 7-8 months per year. I know the Proxes FZ4 is an all-season high performance tire but I never intended to use them during all seasons.
Toyo size was 225/55-16. Dry handling was terrific. Stable in the rain. Treadwear was decent but I drove them pretty hard.
Just bought a set of 185/65/14's for my Corolla. So far they drive very nicely. Anyone have any pros or cons about Dayton tires? Just found out on the web that they are owned by Bridgestone/Firestone Company.
After reading all of the posts on this topic, checking the Tire Rack and Consumer Reports, I believe I have narrowed the field to Yokohama or BF Goodrich. I currently have worn factory 195/65-15 Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus's on Borbet type H wheels. There seems to be 2 camps on this topic: those that rarely consider any but Michelins and those that like other than Michelins. My experience has been OK with mine, but I would like quieter tires and better wet and snow performance. I know the V6 torque (despite ASR for slip) contributes to and detracts from their performance as well. My current considerations are Yokohama AVS dB-$67, BF Goodrich Touring T/A HR4-$58, Yokohama Avid T4-$51 and BF Goodrich Control T/A M65-$50. OK, after further checking, I'd also consider the higher priced Michelin X-One-$84 if it's that much better. Yes, I know they aren't all in the same classes. But, they are more within my budget, get sufficient favorable comments and meet my requirements of: being quieter, at least good handlers, recommended for wet, snow and ice. What's the consensus out there?
I just recently purchased a new 2001 Lexus GS300 that came with all season 16" 215/60/16 tires. My problem with this car is its instability at highway speeds in windy conditions.
On numerous occasions I have actually felt the car move when the crosswinds, 5-15-knots, hit the side of the car. I drive in country conditions and experience windy conditions on a regular basis.
I have driven sport sedans, German, for many years and have NEVER experienced such instability in windy conditions.
My questions is does anyone have any idea about how changing the tires, either wide or size, or the wheels and how that may effect this condition. In the past I have driven cars with larger more performance oriented wheels and tires but I don't want to change for the sake of change.
Also what about, lowering the car or changing to more performance oriented shocks?
I also drive a BMW M3 and Honda Accord Coupe (which has 205/60/16 all season tires) and neither of these cars are effected by the same windy conditions. I also know that it is not the road for I have driven these cars on the same loop and not felt the movement.
My guess is that new tires would not improve the effect of crosswind. The GS300 is a fairly high profile vehicle, even for a sedan (the M3 and Accord are lower profile and therefore less effected by crosswinds). Also, the GS300 is probably tuned for a softer ride, where as the German cars are tuned for sport. Stiffer springs that also lower the car a bit may improve this condition, but by sacrificing ride quality.
Unless...there are serious directional tracking issues with the OEM tires on the GS300. What brand/model of tire are they?
The tires on my Lexus GS300 are Goodyear Invicta GA P215/60/R16. It is amazing to me how many different responses I have gotten concerning this problem. The answers are polar opposites in many cases, i.e., you need new tires, tires will not help, you need to lower your car, lowering will not help, sportier shocks, etc.
Now I am beginning to think that since I have driven German cars for so long I have made a mistake by purchasing the Lexus. Shame on me. Although, I would consider tires, lowering springs, shocks, new steering ECU - if, and only if, I can be guaranteed that it will change the present condition. this is a major expense - $4000 - and one that I would rather put toward purchasing a BMW 5 series and just trading the Lexus.
I realize that these modifications will affect the ride but I am accustomed to the ride of Porsches and BMW's so this does not matter to me. What matters the most to me is the elimination of this condition.
Thank you, Tony, for your response. If anyone else has any input, any input at all, it would be much appreciated.
If it helps any to hear about others with similar experiences, my German Passat can also feel as though it wants to take off or be pushed around pretty good with strong winds (25+?). That's usually at highway speeds. And I have their standard Michelin XMV4 Plus tires. They are now worn out prematurely due to an alignment problem that may have started after a construction truck dented my fender at low speed while I was stopped. I'll let you know if new tires make any difference in high-wind handling. I'm looking at Continentals this time.
Have the dealership check the alignment(4-wheel) for toe-in, caster and camber. Granted, I don't think the Invicta is a great tire, but it sounds like there's a suspension issue more than tires.
Does the car wander or have a vague on-center feel?
This is not the slightest bit common on GS300's as far as my experience is concerned. I have had Audi's, Mercedes, and BMW's and although I don't drive my wife's GS300 that much, it has always impressed me with rock solid tracking and a great highway ride as well as good handling characteristics, at least as good and perhaps better than any German car I have driven which include the big Audi, Mercedes 450SL, and various BMW's from the 3 series through the 5 series. I think you have a problem with your car that is not common to the species. Her tires are Bridgestones and they were just replaced at no cost by the dealer because he did not like the wear on them. Even with the uneven wear we did not experience any such handling problems. Get it checked out, you have a problem, I think.
The car does not wander or feel vague on center at all. The condition that I describe only happens at interstate speeds in winding conditions.
Lexus states in their brochure that this car has a top track speed of 144 MPH. I would not even think of driving this car anywhere near this speed unless I had a DEATH WISH. In fact, I would not feel comfortable driving this car over 100 mph.
I am truly disappointed in the high speed feel of this car. Otherwise, it appears to be a wonderful car, albeit I have only 1300 miles on it.
I have made an appointment at the Lexus dealer to have the alignment checked.
If I didn't like the car for some reason, I'd get rid of it. IMO, throwing parts at the car is a waste of time and money. Unless the car is absolutely perfect in your eyes, you'll always be suspicious and disappointed.
It simply sounds to me like the car doesn't meet your expectations. There's a strong market for that car. Sell it to someone else and go back to whatever made you happy.
Life's too short to drive a car you hate (maybe you don't hate it today, but you will).
The BFG touring TAs (215/60-15) came on a recent car of mine. They will not be an improvement over what you have now. I too had a couple sets each of MXV4 energys and X-ones on other vehicles.
The TAs wouldn't be better in any of the characteristics you mentioned. They display no performance attributes and they wear a lot faster than the X-ones.
I am not looking for a psychological assessement, just some experience from the community with regards to tires, shocks, suspension, etc.
I never said I hated the car. The car has many fine points its just that high speed driving is not one of them.
I've never owned a car that was cateorically perfect. I don't think that one exists.
And as far as eventually hating the car, I doubt it. But thanks for your input, even though it was obviously not asked for and certainly not well though out. Maybe you should find a "junior psychologist" chat room and throw your opinion around there. Good Luck!!!!
I would never expect the GS300 to do that. Do you check tires pressure regularly? Try increasing tire pressure (say 4-6 psi above recommended psi), if you feel that it helps get a good set of performance (or ultra high performance) summer tires (if you live where it snows, you'll need a seperate set of tires for the winter, though). No matter how stiff your suspension is, just a 2 psi decrease in tire pressure can cause a car to do what you describe. Good luck.
Did you ever consider the shape of the car from the side? As cars get more aerodynamic they take on the shape of a wing. That has the downside of also acting like a wing. Combine the vehicle speed with the "crosswind component" of the wind and your car may be in a position where it wants to "fly". That would make it feel very light on it's feet! My '96 Sable gets twitchy in high wind/high speed (75+) situations. OTOH, my Lincoln LS is rock solid at until at least 115mph (don't ask). Maybe that is the reason the GS400 has a spoiler? That may be all that you need. If you don't like the spoiler (and that is the cure), you may have to live with it It IS a nice car!
Hi everybody. I curently have a 1996 Dodge Stratus with P195 70R14 Michelins on it. Since I have 60,00 miles on it, it's almost replacement time. I like the Michelins, but they are very expensive ( about $75 each). Any suggestions for a less expensive all season tire? I have had good experience with Kellys on my wife's car too. Any help will be appreciated. And no Firestone/Bridgestones please
I don't beleive that the spoiler would have much effect with crosswinds. My experience with spoilers is that they are effective at very high speeds in helping to plant the car to the ground.
Asethi, what is the theory behind the 4-6 PSI of increase in tire pressure. I tried it yesterday and I do believe that it made a difference. I pumped the tires from 32 to 38 and drove the car with 38 and then the same loop with 32.
I am going to try it again but I think it helped, quite a bit. I need to have another opinion before I invest in a set of performance tires, costing anywhere from $500 - $1000.
Thanks for the input, on the spoiler and the PSI. ANY OTHER THOUGHTS?????
Here's the theory (if you can call it so). some tires have softer sidewalls that flex easy. most tires with high speed ratings (what's the rating on your tires ?) have hard sidewalls that do not flex that easy. I have the same problem with my winter tires, they have a soft sidewall that flexes easy. Increasing tire pressure makes the tires a bit harder (still won't be the same as good performance tire) and so I guess it should reduce the flex a bit.This is not a solution, though - you need better tires. I would not recommend you drive regularly with this 4-6 psi increase in tire pressure. This was just to isolate if it was the tire or the suspension or something else. Since this helps, it's most probably the tires. Some tire manufacturers (eg, Toyo) give trial offers so you may want to check into that. Keep us posted.
Our car came with 205/60/15 tires on it but it drives pretty rough. Will going to a 205/65/15 tire or a 195/65/15 tire help? I think the larger sidewall will contribute to a smoother ride but don't want to hit the bottom of the car over bumps. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks all!
I have a 99 Solara with Brigdestone Potenza @ 205/65/15 and I have a few questions concerning upgrading. I would like to move to 215/65/15 for better traction. I want to know if the wider tire will force me to make any speed modifications. Also, can someone suggest a better tire than the Potenzas(they suck!) but in the same price range? They run about $70 a piece. I would love to buy the Michelin energies but it would be too expensive buy a set of 4 in them. Another thing, how hard would it be for a novice, like myself, take the old ones off and put the new ones on? Should I just take it to a shop? Can someone who's had experience with tirerack.com tell me how long it will take for delivery? Any info/advice will be greatly appreciated.
I'm sorry you didn't like my macro view of your situation. Since you asked three times for additional viewpoints (posts #581, 583, 587), I thought I'd add my opinions. Clearly these posts and others from you negate your comment to me in post #590 where you stated they were obviously not asked for. They obviously were. You asked for comments from the group and you got them.
As for a junior psychologist chat room, maybe that's a good idea and perhaps some day I'll look for one. But in the meantime, please realise that Edmund's Town Hall is a community where members can offer their opinions and thoughts.
Maybe it is you who is in the wrong place. I've been posting in this room for over one year and have yet to meet a suspension engineer, aerodynamicist, or anyone that presented a very solid grasp of automotive suspension dynamics. Most everyone here is an auto enthusiast with a desire to help and assist others. Your multiple posts solicited that assistance. Take them for what they're worth.
Personally, I sure hope you decide to modify your Lexus. I have many friends and family members employed in the automotive aftermarket industry, especially in the wheel/tire/suspension business. Any purchases from you will help keep these folks employed and their companies profitable. With the slowing economy, all business helps.
Best of luck with your Lexus. You can count on me to keep offering my opinions for the potential benefit of the 500,000 Town Hall members.
Comments
Naturally, the very reason for using performance tires is improved handling. Who needs performance tires for driving on straight line only?
guys, i have a question. do you know of any tire that comes in 215/55R15? im looking for a performance all season tire that has the same diameter as my stock tires but there are none. the 215/55 would be the closest, then 225/50 but i dont really want to go that wide. has anyone ever had or seen a 215/55R15 tire?
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/SelectTireSize.jsp?autoMake=Toyota&autoModel=Celica+GT&autoYear=2000
The size is available with Firehawk SH-30 tires:
http://www.bridgestone-usa.com/products/fhsh30tec.htm
they in stock and costs $57 at Tirerack:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Sizes.jsp?make=Firestone&model=Firehawk+SH30
Probably costs about the same at local Firestone, after accounting for shipping, handling, and installation. $5-$7 difference or so per tire. Does pay for convenience.
Add to this about $70-$80 or so for alignment and road hazard warranty.
By the way, the SH-30 tires are the best in customer satisfaction in its category, according to the Tirerack survey:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/hpas.jsp
And the last: the Tirerack search engine is not good. Could not find any model of high performance all-season tires of the size.
Has there been any other suspension mods like lowering springs or something? That'll have an effect as well.
I have family and several friends who work in the aftermarket wheel and tire industry. I can recall hanging out at their shops and customers would come in wanting some kind of work done, and the shop turning them away. It was always some young dude who's car needed so much other work to be done to make it safe and driveable that it was too much of a business risk to do whatever the guy was asking for (e.g. a guy in a MR2 wants his car lowered. The shop refused the work as his shocks and struts were blitzed and other suspension parts were worn out. He wanted to look cool but his car was a POS underneath. When he was told what his car needed, he about fell over. When he insisted the work be done, they sent him on his way).
Take your car to a more reputable alignment shop, like the Honda dealership.
Good luck.
--Chris
And when you start to hear the rivets scoring your brake rotors, it's a good time to change your break pads.
And when your exhaust pipe rusts through and everything from your catalytic back goes tumbling into the car behind you, it's a good time to start looking at new mufflers.
And when you have so many cracks in your windshield, you find yourself wiping the bugs off your forehead... getting the picture?
Every ounce of your vehicle's mass is supported by those thin rubber and polyester sidewalls. Their ability to do that is directly related to their ability to hold air. When the steel belt is puctured by a nail or other debris, the structural integrity of the tire is mantained, and you can usually muscle the vehicle to the shoulder. The more delicate sidewall behaves differently. When a tire has a weak spot in the sidewall, the eventual result is a catastrophic failure more scary than skidding off a cliff (but likely involving that). It is known in the tire world as a ZIPPER. Some external force causes a small laceration to instantly zip around the circumference of the tire, completely separating one sidewall from the tread. It happens in the blink of an eye, and you will not be able to control the vehicle if it's a front tire. If this event occurs at highway speeds, you have a 50/50 chance of survival.
Can you spare the $40 for a new tire?
---Chris
If you've read any of my previous posts, you know I'm a Michelin man. I'm assuming you need at least an H-rated tire, so the X-One is out. The 195/65R15 MXV4 Plus (exactly what my '00 Jetta 1.8T currently wears) is a good tire: glassy-smooth ride, extremely quiet. If you want better handling, as Mr. Corvette is discovering, the Michelin Pilot XGT H4 is an extremely impressive tire, and not all that expensive (you would most likely want to go with the 205/60 if enhanced performance is what you seek). That will probably be my choice when the MXV4s wear out.
I don't spend as much time on this site as I would like (or as I used to), but I'll try to respond to any further correspondances in a timely manner.
---Chris
In the short run, the Symmetry is a great value for a low price. In the long run, the ratio of mileage-to-dollar makes the X-One an extremely inexpensive tire, with no sacrifices whatsoever. And in the world of high-performance luxury touring, the Pilot line has no equal.
You're looking at three very different tires. Just give it some thought. Consider your driving habits, usual weather/road conditions, how long you want to keep the car, if it's really worth it TO YOU to pay for Pilot performance, or if that $100-$300 would be put to better use elsewhere in your budget.
---Chris
BTW, the sarcasm is not necessary: I'm the 1 in 1000 that checks tire pressure weekly, lug nut torque regularly, and actually inspect tires (both sides) monthly.
265-75-16 Load range D. Between BFG AT KO's or Goodyear AT/S. Would you go up a size? 285's
What about Michelin LTX M/S? Michelin does not make a D rated A/T tire. The Firestones have a low rating on surveys. They are wearing good but ride very hard. Snow traction is OK, but I don't like them in rain.
So you immediately switched it with your full size spare? Good man.
He mentioned they were a "pre-market" brand of Michelin's and I just wanted to see if anyone else out there has any experience with these. For $47/tire (includes stems, balance, disposal, etc.) it seems like a pretty good deal as they're going on a Neon so high performance isn't really an issue, just good traction in wet weather.
Any thoughts?
Thanks.
can a different tire shop that is not listed as a Nitto dealer order these tires for me or does nitto only distribute to authorized dealers? i have definally totally made up my mind. these are the tires i want. it took me a month and a half to decide and now i find out they're almost twice as expensive as any other tire i was considering. what can i do?
Brucer, thanks for info.
rustytruck, ask any autocross racer if a performance tire isnt an issue on a neon. that car has a cult following by racers. the tires u describe sound like a bargain. i think tires are some of the most important parts of a car, to go with the cheapest thing out there is the last thing i would do but if you drive very cautiously all the time then you will never notice the differece between those tires and the ones you have on now.
My Nitto experience was good as well but if it were my choice, I'd go Toyo. I totally trust them.
CIENTRA PLUS
Designed for outstanding overall performance, the Cientra Plus is an intermediate all-season radial featuring touring sizes for imports and domestic cars from subcompacts to luxury sedans. The Cientra Plus also provides year-round performance, dependability, responsive handling, long tread life, comfort and unique styling.
Usually its pretty easy for me to find who makes, or at least markets, an off-brand like Medalist. But I can't find info on this one.
No biggie. Looks like Medalist Cientra is carried by E-Tires, Henise Tire, Tires2You, Midwest Tire, and a number of other joints.
and, how much did they cost? what size? thanks again.
Sorry but I can't provide additional details as you've requested. My experience is limited solely to seat time.
My experience with the Toyo's is much more extensive as they were on my personal car. I used them on a Maxima I owned while living in Chicago but I never drove on them in snow and ice. I had a separate set of wheels and tires for winter driving so the Toyo's were used maybe 7-8 months per year. I know the Proxes FZ4 is an all-season high performance tire but I never intended to use them during all seasons.
Toyo size was 225/55-16. Dry handling was terrific. Stable in the rain. Treadwear was decent but I drove them pretty hard.
Thanks,
Scott
On numerous occasions I have actually felt the car move when the crosswinds, 5-15-knots, hit the side of the car. I drive in country conditions and experience windy conditions on a regular basis.
I have driven sport sedans, German, for many years and have NEVER experienced such instability in windy conditions.
My questions is does anyone have any idea about how changing the tires, either wide or size, or the wheels and how that may effect this condition. In the past I have driven cars with larger more performance oriented wheels and tires but I don't want to change for the sake of change.
Also what about, lowering the car or changing to more performance oriented shocks?
I also drive a BMW M3 and Honda Accord Coupe (which has 205/60/16 all season tires) and neither of these cars are effected by the same windy conditions. I also know that it is not the road for I have driven these cars on the same loop and not felt the movement.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated. HELP!!!!
Unless...there are serious directional tracking issues with the OEM tires on the GS300. What brand/model of tire are they?
-Tony
Now I am beginning to think that since I have driven German cars for so long I have made a mistake by purchasing the Lexus. Shame on me. Although, I would consider tires, lowering springs, shocks, new steering ECU - if, and only if, I can be guaranteed that it will change the present condition. this is a major expense - $4000 - and one that I would rather put toward purchasing a BMW 5 series and just trading the Lexus.
I realize that these modifications will affect the ride but I am accustomed to the ride of Porsches and BMW's so this does not matter to me. What matters the most to me is the elimination of this condition.
Thank you, Tony, for your response. If anyone else has any input, any input at all, it would be much appreciated.
Does the car wander or have a vague on-center feel?
Lexus states in their brochure that this car has a top track speed of 144 MPH. I would not even think of driving this car anywhere near this speed unless I had a DEATH WISH. In fact, I would not feel comfortable driving this car over 100 mph.
I am truly disappointed in the high speed feel of this car. Otherwise, it appears to be a wonderful car, albeit I have only 1300 miles on it.
I have made an appointment at the Lexus dealer to have the alignment checked.
Any other thoughts????????????
It simply sounds to me like the car doesn't meet your expectations. There's a strong market for that car. Sell it to someone else and go back to whatever made you happy.
Life's too short to drive a car you hate (maybe you don't hate it today, but you will).
The TAs wouldn't be better in any of the characteristics you mentioned. They display no performance attributes and they wear a lot faster than the X-ones.
I never said I hated the car. The car has many fine points its just that high speed driving is not one of them.
I've never owned a car that was cateorically perfect. I don't think that one exists.
And as far as eventually hating the car, I doubt it. But thanks for your input, even though it was obviously not asked for and certainly not well though out. Maybe you should find a "junior psychologist" chat room and throw your opinion around there. Good Luck!!!!
Useful comments, such as yours, are much appreciated. Some of the prior comments that I have received have been less than worthless.
Thanks again.
Asethi, what is the theory behind the 4-6 PSI of increase in tire pressure. I tried it yesterday and I do believe that it made a difference. I pumped the tires from 32 to 38 and drove the car with 38 and then the same loop with 32.
I am going to try it again but I think it helped, quite a bit. I need to have another opinion before I invest in a set of performance tires, costing anywhere from $500 - $1000.
Thanks for the input, on the spoiler and the PSI. ANY OTHER THOUGHTS?????
I have a 99 Solara with Brigdestone Potenza @ 205/65/15 and I have a few questions concerning upgrading. I would like to move to 215/65/15 for better traction. I want to know if the wider tire will force me to make any speed modifications. Also, can someone suggest a better tire than the Potenzas(they suck!) but in the same price range? They run about $70 a piece. I would love to buy the Michelin energies but it would be too expensive buy a set of 4 in them. Another thing, how hard would it be for a novice, like myself, take the old ones off and put the new ones on? Should I just take it to a shop? Can someone who's had experience with tirerack.com tell me how long it will take for delivery? Any info/advice will be greatly appreciated.
As for a junior psychologist chat room, maybe that's a good idea and perhaps some day I'll look for one. But in the meantime, please realise that Edmund's Town Hall is a community where members can offer their opinions and thoughts.
Maybe it is you who is in the wrong place. I've been posting in this room for over one year and have yet to meet a suspension engineer, aerodynamicist, or anyone that presented a very solid grasp of automotive suspension dynamics. Most everyone here is an auto enthusiast with a desire to help and assist others. Your multiple posts solicited that assistance. Take them for what they're worth.
Personally, I sure hope you decide to modify your Lexus. I have many friends and family members employed in the automotive aftermarket industry, especially in the wheel/tire/suspension business. Any purchases from you will help keep these folks employed and their companies profitable. With the slowing economy, all business helps.
Best of luck with your Lexus. You can count on me to keep offering my opinions for the potential benefit of the 500,000 Town Hall members.