Count me in as #7 in support of the Bridgestone's. I'm not really clear as to why you want to do this swap. I know what you want, but why switch?
The Cross Terrain's are kinda like a SUV touring tire which are designed for long tread life and a smooth on-road ride. Like the poster with the 2WD Exploder living in Atlanta, he doesn't need a lot of all-weather traction. Here in the South, you either off-road or you don't. If you don't you may as well use a street tire on your SUV and that's what the Cross Terrain is.
The LTX M/S is a 50% on-road / 50% off-road tire. It's available in sizes and load ratings the Cross Terrin isn't. IMO, it's one of the ideal SUV/light truck/van tires available. I've read positive comments on its performance from users in the Pacific Northwest. I'm sure it'll do what you want it to.
The question is this: Is it worth $600 or so to switch to the Michelin's just to........satisfy your curiousity? Take em on a test drive? Match another vehicle you own? Impress the hot chicks?
If you totally hate the Bridgestone's, it makes sense. I'm not saying "don't do it". I'm just wondering why.
I'm amazed that some people spend $30k on a new vehicle, but will drive it around for 2-4 years on mediocre (or worse!) tires, degrading their vehicle's enjoyment, if not safety in the process. If you believe the auto manufacturer "knows best", then you must have missed that little FORD/FIRESTONE controversy. FIRST, look at the www.tirerack.com surveys! (Light Truck/SUV: Highway All-season category) There is no comparison between Michelin LTX (both M/S & A/S rated near the top!) "Would buy again: 8.3 & 8.5 pts; the Bridgestones: 4.3 !! (and among the WORST in "snow traction" and "wet traction") Obviously a scientific comparison test would be the best way to choose, but there are dozens of postings where owners says that a tire upgrade made a dramatic difference in their car's performance. Unfortunately, the Mich. CrossTerrains are too new to be in the survey, but my MDX-Touring has them, and they are most impressive in all respects, though I AM still waiting for my first central FL snow storm to do a thorough evaluation!!
IMHO, you DO need "a lot of all weather traction", if you drive in the rain--at least if the concept of keeping your "high center-of-gravity" vehicle in control and on the pavement during emergency evasive maneuvers or braking appeals to you !! My Cross Terrains are rated 420/ A /B and "M+S". ACURA MDX Size is P235/65x17
Your thanks for the comments on my "bonehead" investigation of trading in my Bridgestones. It IS a load of money, and really don't want to do it unless there's a significant peformance difference. The "B" traction rating caught my eye on the Bridgestones. Rain/Snow traction is what I need. I forgot that the MDXs I test drove had the cross terrains... great ride... hadn't contemplated the role of the tire. As best I can tell my OEMs with 30 mis on them are worth about $45 apiece!
I don't know about the cross terains but then again I am not fond of Michelin tires in general. I have had several models on various cars and switched them with Pirrellis and am much more satsified.
I would suggest that before you buy a new set of tires that you honestly evaluated how your tires perform. What do they do well, what do not do so well. Then start investigating other tires to see what will fit yoiur particular needs the best.
I would suspect up in the Pacific NW you want a great rain tire for one. This means you want a tire with good sipes to get the water out from under the tread. If you are going offroad up there you want tough sidewalls to handle all the tree roots and ground cover. In winter you want lugs for the snow.
If it were me, I would get the best tires for rain and off road and use these in all seasons except snow and in snow put on tires meant for snow.
As to OEM tires, remember that mfg. are dealing with costs and finding a tire that is adequate for what they think is going to be okay for the average buyer.
Again, hit sites like tire rack and do your homework. Then decide if there is a better tire for your needs. If they are too expensive, at least your tires are usuable until you can save a few pennies to get what you need.
Personally for my driving I found the Pirrelli Scorpion Zeros to be the best tire. But again that is for me. Maybe for your needs other Pirrelli Scorpion tires such as the AT may be better suited.
THANKS TO ALL WHO RESPONDED.i was told the suspension on my 2001 sport would need sum kind of cross bars and stabilizer to go from 15 inch tires to 16 INCH TIRES.Does any body know if this is a big expence to do. the sales manger at dodge told me it would be expensive to do. i guess i could live with what i got but i am curious if this really is pricey.any thoughts from the tire experts in this rm.
I have a 94 mercury tracer. It has ony 38k on it but its time to replace the tires on it for the first time currently i have Goodyear Invicta GL 175/65-14. I am thinking to upgrading to a tire size 185/60-14. Is that a goog idea. I have 14 rims and on discounttire.com it says that will also fit my vehicle. But i am very confused as to what BRAND to choose for my car. Goodyears were pretty good but the handling seems to die in the car when the tires hit 35k. I am looking for a quiet ride, long lasting(40-50k), and a little performance tires. oh and affordable tires up to low low 40's per tire. So far i picked out, Yokohoma Avid Touring , Avid T4 , Pirelli P6000 , BfGoodrich Control T/A, I dont really want firestones cause on my wifes car the handling in winter is not that great and dry handling is not that great . So what brand should i choose ? And should i upgrade my tire size . Thank You
I think the dealer is telling you that you need the rear stabilzer bar, better known (incorrectly) as a sway bar.
If you are trying to duplicate the tire and handling package then yes, you will need to add the rear stabilzer bar. However, yiou do not need it just to go to the 16 (or even 17) rims and tires.
If you can afford the hundred or so bucks plus installation then the rear bar would be worth having.
If you are happy with the current handling I wouldn't worry about it. If the back end seems to roll too much for you then I would suggest getting the rear sway bar first before the tires/wheels. You may find that is enough to give you what you want.
Probably referring to a strut tower brace which goes across the engine compartment and connects the strut towers. Does wonders for steering response.
Basically the front structure of the vehicle is wobbling around as loads are applied. The brace reduces the deflections which means the tires are being controlled much more precisely, hence the handling improvement.
Minivans are notorious for eating up front tires. That is because the structure is just a big floppy box. The suspension is soft too. The tires are imprecisely controlled, and the tires are beaten up. The cross brace will do wonders for the handling.
I came down to a choice between a 175-65/14 Goodyear integrity OR 175-65-14 Pirelli P3000 , Which ones should I choose. I am looking for good handling and quiet ride =
If your truck were two wheel drive, you'd have no problems; but, judging by your screen name, I'm assuming it is a K2500, in which case you would be asking for trouble. The Rule: Each tire must be within 1.5" of circumference for 4x4 operation. Any more and you will likely cause severe damage to your transfer case. ---Chris
The Deuler HT tires are decent tires. It would be wasteful to replace them so early. Though the LTX M/S or Cross Terrain tires would offer a substantial improvement. I was recently faced with a similar dilemma: I just bought my wife a 97 Wrangler Sport. It's a very nice vehicle, but, unfortunately the previous owner had just installed new tires. They tried to push that as a selling point, but I had to explain to them that life is too precious for generic "all-terrain" tires, consequently negating their expenditure of several hundred clams. So here I was, faced with two years of treadwear until I could consciously toss these run-of-the-mill 225/75R15s in favor of some decent tires, denying myself the enjoyment an owner of this type of vehicle is thoroughly entitled to. My solution: I found someone to buy them. I justified spending $600 on a set of 31x10.50R15LT BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KOs by allowing a cohort to take the nearly new Cheapo A/Ts off my hands for $100. They probably cost the former owner $350, but anyone who reads these posts (and even my wife) understands why it had to be. And why didn't Mr. Michelin Fanatic go with Michelins? For this rig I needed a bad-[non-permissible content removed] off-road tire. The LTX M/S is an awesome 80/20 Road/Off-road tire, but I wasn't the least bit concerned with comfort on this occasion. Why the heck would I need a quiet ride with that loosely fitting ragtop flopping overhead? I'll benefit more from the BFG's TriGuard sidewall, rim protectors, and high-void tread pattern. And besides, they're made by Michelin. ---Chris
I bought the KOs at Sears, who actually had the best price ($112) after I drove around all day, searching. Their prices on tires are good, but you really take it in the rear with their installation costs. I probably should have worded that differently. Does that offend anyone? If it does, go put another inconspicuous rainbow on your Colt Vista. I paid around $100 for what Sam's charges only $40. Sam's hasn't sold the KOs since BFG slapped them on the wrist for selling them too cheap (a 31" for $99), then denied them the opportunity for almost two years. Two days after my visit to Sears, I was talking to my younger brother. Before I even mention my latest disbursement of funds, he says, "Hey, did you know Sam's is selling the KOs again?" It was one of those moments when you want to just pound your head through the wall--but then you realize that would hurt and really wouldn't change the fact you just wasted what could have been four cases of Heineken. The Sam's installation is their same all-encompassing $9, and the tires (in my size) are $10 less than Sears' darn good price. I'd have an extra protrait of Ben Franklin in my wallet this moment, had I known. C'est la vi. But Sears customer service certainly left much to be desired. The clerk was all smiles until he came across a discrepancy: his computer told him the largest size spec'd on a Wrangler is the 30X9.50R15, yet here I was, trying to purchase four 31X10.50R15s. How could this be? He told me three times, "But the computer says 30. You want 30" tires." And I told him three times, "But I say 31. I want 31" tires." Finally I demanded to see his RMA fitment guide, whereupon I showed him the tire/rim chart, clearly indicating that a 31X10.50R15 will fit perfectly on the 7J OE rims. And they do. But I'm sure there are lots of Sam's clerks who would have given me the same runaround. -----Chris
Thanks for your note. Made me laugh out loud. After considering the great info folks have offered, I'm inclined to keep my Duelers for April-October and spring for some winter tires and rims for the months that matter around here. I've got no Sam's near by, but plenty of opportunity for wacky "help" from my local Sears.
You are correct it is a 4x4. Had not thought about the transfer case issue. Will put one of the R4S tires as the spare (and probably make a tire swing for the kids with the other), take the A/T that is currently the spare and put it on the extra OEM wheel and go with a 5 way rotation for a while (the four originals and the matching original spare). I'll also put a note with the jack not to engage the 4 wheel drive if the spare is on the truck.
I am looking for new tires, and I noticed the above were rated highly at tirerack. Does anyone have any advice? Also, are these particular tires built in the same plant (in Illinois?) as the one involved with the Firestone controversy?
I live in CT. Hilly terrains, windy roads. Installed SH-30 last fall (November?) on my 98 Malibu. Used through the rainy winter, and like them very much.
Outstanding traction / cornering. I had the car for 2 years, with OEM Affinity tires, and never expect it is capable of such handling. Dry or wet does not matter, practically the same with the tires.
Do not know where they are made, and this does not matter for me. I bought them at the very peak of the scandal.
The SH-30 tires are H-rated for speed. I.e. they are designed for sustained driving, for hours, at 130 mph. Very wide safety margins for driving on American highways at sustained speed of about 70-75 mph, at most 80.
To hold at 130 mph, tires must work at high temperature. Practically all "H" rated tires have "A" temperature rate.
The Explorer tires had "C" temperature rate - barely enough to pass the minimal government requirements. Very thin margin for the manufacturing problems and imperfections, as well as for bad user care.
SH-30 are the best in their category, according to tirerack. Overall, the Firestone designs are not consistent. The company produces some of the best tires, as well as some of the worst.
Thanks for recommending the BFG Control TA M65. I finally bought a set yesterday and am very happy with it so far. It gives a quiet smooth ride. Didn't know my car can be so quiet. Traction in rain was good. Can't wait to try it in snow but have to wait until December :-)
I have a Subaru Impreza with 38,400 miles on it and one bad tire (slow leak). I've gotten conflicting information about whether I need to buy 4 new tires or just 2, since I have AWD. Except for this, I would wait to get new tires and then replace all of them (these are the original tires). This is the second slow leak in the same tire and the other one was close to the sidewall and a gas station plugged it. My question is, do I need to have all 4 tires the same, or do just the 2 front and 2 back ones need to match? I intend to ask several dealers also, but it never hurts to have as much information as possible. If all 4 tires need to match, it seems to me that I shouldn't spend more to get tires that will last 50-60k miles, since having one go bad will necessitate having to replace all of them, assuming I can't find the same tires at the time. Any suggestions/advice will be appreciated.
I had a slow leak once in my 88 Taurus tire. A nail, was fixed at Firestone, but the tire still leaked -about 5 psi a week. Months later I bought a "spare tire in the can" at Pep Boys, put it into the tire, and had no leak since - till the tires wore-out and were replaced about 10k miles later.
Second, if (or rather when) replacing tires, I would suggest to buy a road hasard warranty. It does not cost much - something like $10-$20 for all 4 tires. After this it will be the tire dealer headache, not your, what to do if one tire of 4 must be replaced.
I bought such a warranty when replaced the OEM Affinity by SH-30 at Firestone.
Barbara, on Subarus, if tire circumference differs by more than 1/4", excessive stress is placed on the AWD system. So with 38k on the tires, I am sure that any new tires would exceed this.
Insist that the tire be fixed on the inside and not with a "plug". This should hold air much better. Then, when tires do wear out, replace all 4.
Being a new single mom and taking care of my own cars is certainly a new experience. My daughter, who drives a 1997 Plymouth Neon (has 35,000 miles) needs new tires. A friend of mine is selling 4 tires. Very slightly used, the right size, Goodyear, for $100.00 for all four. What did I hear about Goodyear? Can anyone advise? Thanks!
I have a 2001 Audi A6 4.2 w/sport pkg. It came with Pirelli P6000's. They are really noisy and at 7,000 miles, I would guess they are about half gone.
I did have, on an earlier Audi, Dunlop SP 9000's -- and they were much quieter and they were good to about 22,000+ miles.
Living in Cincinnati, I have been contemplating the value of Ultra HP all season tires such as the Yokohama AVS db's.
I am looking for comments regarding, performance, ride, noise, winter, and durability -- in that order. The P6000's seem to be OK overall, but way too noisy for my tastes. I do drive fast (on the interstates), I do not race, I am interested in a tire that will be agressive, but the traffic and the roads that I drive on most, are not terribly twisty -- I have enjoyed Pirelli PZero's, Dunlop SP 9000's and some of the Michelin Max Performacne tires. Have not enjoyed, but have owned Goodyear GSD's that came on an Audi A8 I had in 1997.
TIre Guy said the H/T's were "decent" but how about the H/L's? At Tire Rack, they're neck and neck with the LTX M/S in user ratings. How do they compare in ride, wear, noise, and wet/dry handling? I'm looking to replace the Goodyear Integrities on my wife's '99 Lexus RX300. We don't go off-road at all. Are the Cross Terrains realy worth the $35 premium per tire over the Bridgestones or are the differences going to be so subtle as not to be noticeable? Has anyone replaced the H/L's with the Michelins and noticed any difference? Thanks.
Firestone replaced the Wilderness LEs on my 2000 Yukon with Bridgestone Dueler H/Ls. The tires are fair at best. They have a pull to them, with internal belts that shift. I have over 25,000 miles on the set of tires and I can see obvious wear on them. It is my intention to replace them with the Michelin tires later this year because I am not found of the Bridgestones. Ever since Firestone merged with Bridgestone, that brand has gone down hill in my opinion.
Has anyone had any experience with these tires? I'm planning on getting these for my Toyota Corolla on friday. The car calls for 185/65/14's but I plan to go to 195/60/14's and have been told that this will be an o k switch. Any info on these tires and the wider tires would be of great help to me. Thank you all in advance for your help!
Picked up a rental car the other week and as soon as I hit the highway I knew something was wrong. A loud hum with a rumble coming from the rear.
The car was an Olds Alero with just under a 1000 miles. The tires were BFG touring TAs. Each of the rear tires had 1 or 2 areas on the tread about 4 inches along the circumference where the tread blocks had the forward edges raised (the edge of the tread block that touches the pavement first). It covered across the width of the tire but only about 4 inches along the surface. I've never seen anything like that. one tire seemed to have only area affected, the other had at least 2.
I swapped rental cars the next day but am curious about what might have caused such localized tread deformation.
That post was the first negative comment I have read about the Dueler H/L. Everyone else raves about the tire.
I can't imagine anyone going wrong with Michelin's as long as they don't care about how much money they're spending. No question - Michelin is expensive.
The Cross Terrain is a new tire so there isn't a lot of real-world feedback on it. Anyone who has read some of the posts in this topic can see that comments are few. Is the Cross Terrain worth $35 more than the Bridgestone? Who knows. But I'm sure it's a good tire.
Since you're replacing Goodyear Integrity, which is a passenger car tire slapped on a faux-SUV, I think the Cross Terrain's would be a better choice than the Dueler H/L since it's a lot like a car tire designed for light trucks.
Bridgestone makes a Dueler H/T that would be competitive with the Intergrity and the Cross Terrain.
$100 is too much for used Goodyears in that size. But if he's flexible on the price, here's what to look for: 1) Take a ruler, measure the tread depth all around each tire at various lateral and circumfrential points. Uneven wear indicates various mechanical problems--I won't get into that here.* If the depth is less than 1/4" at any point, forget it. 2) Make a visual inspection of the rubber, checking for cracks (dry rot), or overall grittiness. Slashes in the sidewall are from getting too close to curbs. If you see any of these, forget it. 3) Check the bead (part that actually touches the rim. If there are any tears from the dismounting process, forget it. 4) Make a visual inspection of the interior surface. You will see any plugs or patches which have been applied to the tire. Look for tiny puncture holes (much easier to find from the inside than the outside). Also check the inside of the sidewall. If you see that the surface has been distrubed in any way and the more coarse rubber is exposed (trust me, you'll see it), this means the tire was driven underinflated. This condition is also accompanied by fine rubber shavings and possibly little balls of rubber the size of a BB (from the centrifugal force of the rotation). If you see any patches, plugs, shavings, little balls of rubber or inner wear, forget it. 5) Check to see that the DOT# (usualy 10 digits preceded by DOT, on the inner sidewall of Goodyears) has not been defaced**. This is an indication the tire is a BLEM. If you see no DOT, forget it.
If you find that the tire satisfies all these conditions, offer him $80. Otherwise, just go to Sam's and buy a brand new set (4) of BF Goodrich tires installed for around $250. To give you a measure of just how "good" is the deal offered you, I just sold a nearly new set of 225/75R15 truck tires which cost $350 originally for $100. I just happened to notice his Cherokee had bald tires. That was a good deal. Four used 185/65R14s for $100 is not such a great deal, especially from a "friend." I don't know the financial situation of your friend, but if I had a buddy who needed the tires I had no use for, I would have given them to him/her for nothing. Final note: If you had a 3/4 ton truck, where the tires usually cost $100-150, there might be some benefit to buying used tires from someone you know (never a used tire store). But with a Neon, where tires usually run $30-$60, it's really not worth the risk. Just buy new.
---Chris
*uneven wear resulting from misalignment (one side more than the other) or wear from bad shocks/stuts (diagonal pattern all around tire) is a degenerative condition. Uneven wear due to improper pressure (center more than shoulders, vice-versa) can be corrected over time, and doesn't necessarily mean the end of a tire.
**the last grouping of three or four digits of the DOT (ex: 419) is an indication of the week and year of manufacture (ex: 41st week of 1999). If the tire is over 6 years old, forget it. Original Equipment (OE) tires are usually around a year older than the vehicle.
My celica has 195/60R15 tires on 6.5 inch wide rims stock. i want to know if a 215/50R15 "ultra high performance - all season" tire will fit without deforming the side wall. And make any sense in terms of wet performance. im comsidering the Dunlop Sp 5000 Asymetrical. i know it will be a [non-permissible content removed] to install but i dont care, i just want to know if it makes sense.
i'm looking for an improvement in braking and cornering in various NYC weather conditions. thanks.
i just replaced my OEM tires on my 94 tracer with the Pirellis P400 . Its a very good tire. Great handling in dry condtions. Its quiet on the road even going 90mph's. I have not yeat have experiance in wet conditions but from what I have heard they are really good tires. I payed $260 for all four with instilatton they wanter Road Hazard Warranty for $60 I didnt take it. Then it would be over 300. Which I think is too much for a car like that. The guy at Discount Tire said Pirell p400 and Yokohomas Avid's are neck to neck even. He said that they outperform Goodyear and he also said that p400's were rated 1'st or 2'nd in the consumer reports for best passanger tire last year. are
It came with Kumho Ecsta 4's.They are H rated,but I dont plan on driving 130 mph.What would a good replacement tire be.I live in the south and do about 75% city driving.Also the size is 205/65/15 is there any advantage going one size larger?
Thanks for the advice. I just ordered the Pirelli P400's which should get here in about a week.
Of course now I am wondering if Michelin X-One's would be better? According to Consumer Reports and Tire Rack's Survey, the Pirelli P400's are better for my car (1998 4cyl Camry) but I have also talked to a few tire people locally and they swear by the Michelin's as do 95%+ of the people on this forum.
Find a good store, buy tiers (nothing else), go to your dealer (shop), rotate&balance, 4-wheel alignment. I saw Tireguy's post about Sears. I saw the same thing. You can get a nice deal, but ... installation costs are really high ... at the end Dunlop d60 a2 (camry le) could cost me approx $390 (Micheline Road Handler T-plus >$560). If I go to my dealer I can save at least $50. Plus, I am familiar with my dealerships, and I know that they have skills to do the job.
Just got home from Olsen Tire here in Coral Springs, Florida and went back to the original tire size. I have a Toyota Corolla with 185/65/14 tires on it. Yesterday I put on 195/60/14's after a friend said a little bigger patch of tire on the road is better. After 5 minutes of driving, I knew I had made a mistake! The car drove worse than before and felt all sloshy on the road. Went back 24 hours later and they put on the original size tires and car drives much better! So, I learned 1 thing here, bigger is not always better! Thank g-d they have a 30 day ride guarantee.
I need to replace my tires (195/65/15) really soon - felt hydroplaning in the rain while I was driving 30mph! My ideal tires should be quiet and good corning ability and some snow traction.
First one in my mind is the new Bridgestone RE950, it claims that it "handles wet ... even as it wears". Do you think this tire worth its price ($70 from tirerack)?
The next on my list is Yokohama AVID T-4, quiet, long treadwear and great price ($51). However, does it handle wet well throughout its life?
Which tire would you recommend? Do you have others in mind?
it all depends on the tire. did you put a fatter touring tire on the car or did you buy something made for performance? more rubber and a weaker sidewall will not make for better perfromance, it all depends on the tire.
I'm ready to trash the 225/60/16 Goodyear Eagle LS tires on my 99 Buick Regal LSE. I'm coin flipping between the Michelin Pilots, X-One, and Symmetry. Maybe you have another recommendation. I live in NE Ohio, so we get a fair amount of snow and occasional ice. I appreciate your knowledge and input. Thanks.
Hello, I have a 2000 Protege DX (Canadian Car) with the Bridgestone Potenza RE92 (195/55.15) tires. After about 3500KM (2000 miles) of use the tires started to develop a whine between 50KPH to 80KPH (30 to 45 mph). I am familiar with a slapping sounding tire noise, and the usual issues with tar strips, but when I approach the Bridgestone distributor, he said it was normal for the tires to whine a bit (this was March/ late winter here in Ontario). The whining was not that bad during the winter, but now that it is summer, the whining is getting alot worse. Has anyone else have problems with Bridgestone Potenzas? and is whining normal for performance tires?
What amount of sidewall damage warrants tire replacement?
I got a few cuts in a sidewall yesterday due to some un-avoidable highway debris. Cuts are shallow, maybe 1/16" or less deep and 1" to 2" long, but if I spread them open, I can just start to see the first layer of fabric.
Just my personal opinion, but tires are the one most important part of your safety and therefore I would never continue using a tire with any cut anyplace on it..
I heard this morning on the TV that Ford said that the tires on the 50,000 Explorers for 2002 are being recalled for cuts in the tires and they were quoted as saying "it is not a safety issue".. It is in my mind...!
According to my calculations, there is less than one percent speedometer/odometer difference in the above tire sizes. I currently have Michelin Energy MXV4+ tires, but according to Tire Rack's survey, Michelin Pilot XGT H4 tires rate better for dry, wet, and snow traction, while maintaining (for all practical purposes) the same ride comfort, noise comfort, and treadwear. For whatever reason, they also cost less. Sadly, the Pilots do not come in "my" tire size (195/65R15). Is there any reason not to switch to 205/60R15's? Thanks in advance.
The Tirerack ratings are useful as a measure of user satisfaction, but they are rather subjective. Especially hard to compare the ratings across categories: with performance tires people are expecting better handling, but more noise and shorter life...
Comments
Count me in as #7 in support of the Bridgestone's. I'm not really clear as to why you want to do this swap. I know what you want, but why switch?
The Cross Terrain's are kinda like a SUV touring tire which are designed for long tread life and a smooth on-road ride. Like the poster with the 2WD Exploder living in Atlanta, he doesn't need a lot of all-weather traction. Here in the South, you either off-road or you don't. If you don't you may as well use a street tire on your SUV and that's what the Cross Terrain is.
The LTX M/S is a 50% on-road / 50% off-road tire. It's available in sizes and load ratings the Cross Terrin isn't. IMO, it's one of the ideal SUV/light truck/van tires available. I've read positive comments on its performance from users in the Pacific Northwest. I'm sure it'll do what you want it to.
The question is this: Is it worth $600 or so to switch to the Michelin's just to........satisfy your curiousity? Take em on a test drive? Match another vehicle you own? Impress the hot chicks?
If you totally hate the Bridgestone's, it makes sense. I'm not saying "don't do it". I'm just wondering why.
FIRST, look at the www.tirerack.com surveys! (Light Truck/SUV: Highway All-season category) There is no comparison between Michelin LTX (both M/S & A/S rated near the top!) "Would buy again: 8.3 & 8.5 pts; the Bridgestones: 4.3 !! (and among the WORST in "snow traction" and "wet traction") Obviously a scientific comparison test would be the best way to choose, but there are dozens of postings where owners says that a tire upgrade made a dramatic difference in their car's performance.
Unfortunately, the Mich. CrossTerrains are too new to be in the survey, but my MDX-Touring has them, and they are most impressive in all respects, though I AM still waiting for my first central FL snow storm to do a thorough evaluation!!
I would suggest that before you buy a new set of tires that you honestly evaluated how your tires perform. What do they do well, what do not do so well. Then start investigating other tires to see what will fit yoiur particular needs the best.
I would suspect up in the Pacific NW you want a great rain tire for one. This means you want a tire with good sipes to get the water out from under the tread. If you are going offroad up there you want tough sidewalls to handle all the tree roots and ground cover. In winter you want lugs for the snow.
If it were me, I would get the best tires for rain and off road and use these in all seasons except snow and in snow put on tires meant for snow.
As to OEM tires, remember that mfg. are dealing with costs and finding a tire that is adequate for what they think is going to be okay for the average buyer.
Again, hit sites like tire rack and do your homework. Then decide if there is a better tire for your needs. If they are too expensive, at least your tires are usuable until you can save a few pennies to get what you need.
Personally for my driving I found the Pirrelli Scorpion Zeros to be the best tire. But again that is for me. Maybe for your needs other Pirrelli Scorpion tires such as the AT may be better suited.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
If you are trying to duplicate the tire and handling package then yes, you will need to add the rear stabilzer bar. However, yiou do not need it just to go to the 16 (or even 17) rims and tires.
If you can afford the hundred or so bucks plus installation then the rear bar would be worth having.
If you are happy with the current handling I wouldn't worry about it. If the back end seems to roll too much for you then I would suggest getting the rear sway bar first before the tires/wheels. You may find that is enough to give you what you want.
Basically the front structure of the vehicle is wobbling around as loads are applied. The brace reduces the deflections which means the tires are being controlled much more precisely, hence the handling improvement.
Minivans are notorious for eating up front tires. That is because the structure is just a big floppy box. The suspension is soft too. The tires are imprecisely controlled, and the tires are beaten up. The cross brace will do wonders for the handling.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
---Chris
I was recently faced with a similar dilemma: I just bought my wife a 97 Wrangler Sport. It's a very nice vehicle, but, unfortunately the previous owner had just installed new tires. They tried to push that as a selling point, but I had to explain to them that life is too precious for generic "all-terrain" tires, consequently negating their expenditure of several hundred clams. So here I was, faced with two years of treadwear until I could consciously toss these run-of-the-mill 225/75R15s in favor of some decent tires, denying myself the enjoyment an owner of this type of vehicle is thoroughly entitled to. My solution: I found someone to buy them. I justified spending $600 on a set of 31x10.50R15LT BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KOs by allowing a cohort to take the nearly new Cheapo A/Ts off my hands for $100. They probably cost the former owner $350, but anyone who reads these posts (and even my wife) understands why it had to be.
And why didn't Mr. Michelin Fanatic go with Michelins? For this rig I needed a bad-[non-permissible content removed] off-road tire. The LTX M/S is an awesome 80/20 Road/Off-road tire, but I wasn't the least bit concerned with comfort on this occasion. Why the heck would I need a quiet ride with that loosely fitting ragtop flopping overhead? I'll benefit more from the BFG's TriGuard sidewall, rim protectors, and high-void tread pattern. And besides, they're made by Michelin.
---Chris
But Sears customer service certainly left much to be desired. The clerk was all smiles until he came across a discrepancy: his computer told him the largest size spec'd on a Wrangler is the 30X9.50R15, yet here I was, trying to purchase four 31X10.50R15s. How could this be? He told me three times, "But the computer says 30. You want 30" tires." And I told him three times, "But I say 31. I want 31" tires." Finally I demanded to see his RMA fitment guide, whereupon I showed him the tire/rim chart, clearly indicating that a 31X10.50R15 will fit perfectly on the 7J OE rims. And they do.
But I'm sure there are lots of Sam's clerks who would have given me the same runaround.
-----Chris
Tom
Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
Outstanding traction / cornering. I had the car for 2 years, with OEM Affinity tires, and never expect it is capable of such handling. Dry or wet does not matter, practically the same with the tires.
Do not know where they are made, and this does not matter for me. I bought them at the very peak of the scandal.
The SH-30 tires are H-rated for speed. I.e. they are designed for sustained driving, for hours, at 130 mph. Very wide safety margins for driving on American highways at sustained speed of about 70-75 mph, at most 80.
To hold at 130 mph, tires must work at high temperature. Practically all "H" rated tires have "A" temperature rate.
The Explorer tires had "C" temperature rate - barely enough to pass the minimal government requirements. Very thin margin for the manufacturing problems and imperfections, as well as for bad user care.
SH-30 are the best in their category, according to tirerack. Overall, the Firestone designs are not consistent. The company produces some of the best tires, as well as some of the worst.
I'll get them installed today, and I'll let everyone know what I think.
Thanks.
I had a slow leak once in my 88 Taurus tire. A nail, was fixed at Firestone, but the tire still leaked -about 5 psi a week. Months later I bought a "spare tire in the can" at Pep Boys, put it into the tire, and had no leak since - till the tires wore-out and were replaced about 10k miles later.
Second, if (or rather when) replacing tires, I would suggest to buy a road hasard warranty. It does not cost much - something like $10-$20 for all 4 tires. After this it will be the tire dealer headache, not your, what to do if one tire of 4 must be replaced.
I bought such a warranty when replaced the OEM Affinity by SH-30 at Firestone.
Insist that the tire be fixed on the inside and not with a "plug". This should hold air much better. Then, when tires do wear out, replace all 4.
I did have, on an earlier Audi, Dunlop SP 9000's -- and they were much quieter and they were good to about 22,000+ miles.
Living in Cincinnati, I have been contemplating the value of Ultra HP all season tires such as the Yokohama AVS db's.
I am looking for comments regarding, performance, ride, noise, winter, and durability -- in that order. The P6000's seem to be OK overall, but way too noisy for my tastes. I do drive fast (on the interstates), I do not race, I am interested in a tire that will be agressive, but the traffic and the roads that I drive on most, are not terribly twisty -- I have enjoyed Pirelli PZero's, Dunlop SP 9000's and some of the Michelin Max Performacne tires. Have not enjoyed, but have owned Goodyear GSD's that came on an Audi A8 I had in 1997.
Remarks, comments, suggestions?
Thanks.
Thanks.
The car was an Olds Alero with just under a 1000 miles. The tires were BFG touring TAs. Each of the rear tires had 1 or 2 areas on the tread about 4 inches along the circumference where the tread blocks had the forward edges raised (the edge of the tread block that touches the pavement first). It covered across the width of the tire but only about 4 inches along the surface. I've never seen anything like that. one tire seemed to have only area affected, the other had at least 2.
I swapped rental cars the next day but am curious about what might have caused such localized tread deformation.
I can't imagine anyone going wrong with Michelin's as long as they don't care about how much money they're spending. No question - Michelin is expensive.
The Cross Terrain is a new tire so there isn't a lot of real-world feedback on it. Anyone who has read some of the posts in this topic can see that comments are few. Is the Cross Terrain worth $35 more than the Bridgestone? Who knows. But I'm sure it's a good tire.
Since you're replacing Goodyear Integrity, which is a passenger car tire slapped on a faux-SUV, I think the Cross Terrain's would be a better choice than the Dueler H/L since it's a lot like a car tire designed for light trucks.
Bridgestone makes a Dueler H/T that would be competitive with the Intergrity and the Cross Terrain.
1) Take a ruler, measure the tread depth all around each tire at various lateral and circumfrential points. Uneven wear indicates various mechanical problems--I won't get into that here.* If the depth is less than 1/4" at any point, forget it.
2) Make a visual inspection of the rubber, checking for cracks (dry rot), or overall grittiness. Slashes in the sidewall are from getting too close to curbs. If you see any of these, forget it.
3) Check the bead (part that actually touches the rim. If there are any tears from the dismounting process, forget it.
4) Make a visual inspection of the interior surface. You will see any plugs or patches which have been applied to the tire. Look for tiny puncture holes (much easier to find from the inside than the outside). Also check the inside of the sidewall. If you see that the surface has been distrubed in any way and the more coarse rubber is exposed (trust me, you'll see it), this means the tire was driven underinflated. This condition is also accompanied by fine rubber shavings and possibly little balls of rubber the size of a BB (from the centrifugal force of the rotation). If you see any patches, plugs, shavings, little balls of rubber or inner wear, forget it.
5) Check to see that the DOT# (usualy 10 digits preceded by DOT, on the inner sidewall of Goodyears) has not been defaced**. This is an indication the tire is a BLEM. If you see no DOT, forget it.
If you find that the tire satisfies all these conditions, offer him $80. Otherwise, just go to Sam's and buy a brand new set (4) of BF Goodrich tires installed for around $250. To give you a measure of just how "good" is the deal offered you, I just sold a nearly new set of 225/75R15 truck tires which cost $350 originally for $100. I just happened to notice his Cherokee had bald tires. That was a good deal. Four used 185/65R14s for $100 is not such a great deal, especially from a "friend." I don't know the financial situation of your friend, but if I had a buddy who needed the tires I had no use for, I would have given them to him/her for nothing.
Final note: If you had a 3/4 ton truck, where the tires usually cost $100-150, there might be some benefit to buying used tires from someone you know (never a used tire store). But with a Neon, where tires usually run $30-$60, it's really not worth the risk. Just buy new.
---Chris
*uneven wear resulting from misalignment (one side more than the other) or wear from bad shocks/stuts (diagonal pattern all around tire) is a degenerative condition. Uneven wear due to improper pressure (center more than shoulders, vice-versa) can be corrected over time, and doesn't necessarily mean the end of a tire.
**the last grouping of three or four digits of the DOT (ex: 419) is an indication of the week and year of manufacture (ex: 41st week of 1999). If the tire is over 6 years old, forget it. Original Equipment (OE) tires are usually around a year older than the vehicle.
These are the tires I have narrowed it down to:
a. Pirelli P400 Touring
b. Yokohama Avid H4
c. Dunlop D60 A2 JLB
I live in Utah and mainly use my car to commute on the highway about 70 miles per day. I need tires that are good on ice.
I would appreciate some advice on the right tires for my car. Thanks.
i'm looking for an improvement in braking and cornering in various NYC weather conditions. thanks.
The guy at Discount Tire said Pirell p400 and Yokohomas Avid's are neck to neck even. He said that they outperform Goodyear and he also said that p400's were rated 1'st or 2'nd in the consumer reports for best passanger tire last year. are
Of course now I am wondering if Michelin X-One's would be better? According to Consumer Reports and Tire Rack's Survey, the Pirelli P400's are better for my car (1998 4cyl Camry) but I have also talked to a few tire people locally and they swear by the Michelin's as do 95%+ of the people on this forum.
Plus, I am familiar with my dealerships, and I know that they have skills to do the job.
Thanks.
First one in my mind is the new Bridgestone RE950, it claims that it "handles wet ... even as it wears". Do you think this tire worth its price ($70 from tirerack)?
The next on my list is Yokohama AVID T-4, quiet, long treadwear and great price ($51). However, does it handle wet well throughout its life?
Which tire would you recommend? Do you have others in mind?
Thank you
Thanks in advance.
I got a few cuts in a sidewall yesterday due to some un-avoidable highway debris. Cuts are shallow, maybe 1/16" or less deep and 1" to 2" long, but if I spread them open, I can just start to see the first layer of fabric.
Will this compromise the safety of the tire?
Thanks,
-Tony
I heard this morning on the TV that Ford said that the tires on the 50,000 Explorers for 2002 are being recalled for cuts in the tires and they were quoted as saying "it is not a safety issue"..
It is in my mind...!
Steve
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