Tires, tires, tires

ruking1

Yes a BEAM type torque wrench can give you that value, ie the indicator deflects on the loosing as well as tightening strokes.

For the modern "click" type" this is really a good question. One does not really care if a lug nut is torqued to say 100 ft#'s, but truly just before a 10,000 mile rotation has the lugnut BEEN holding AT 100 ft #'s. I have heard of a Sears digital torque measuring product, and it would make sense that you could get the measurements on loosing, but I do not know for sure.

Mr_Shiftright

Try to post your questions in one topic only. Your question is being addressed in "Auto 101".

capriracer

First let me apologize for the delay in responding. What I have been trying to post is pretty long and one of the servers has been logging me off while I write - thus preventing the post from appearing. So I'm going to do this in installments. Here's the first installment:

Installment #1)

"….. However, you almost completely gloss over the consequences of what I have said about the " PLACARD" on my VW Jetta TDI, quoted above….."

I'm unclear about what you mean, but correct me if I am wrong, but your VW's placard says something like:

If you have one passenger use this inflation pressure. If you are fully loaded use that inflation pressure (a higher value).

Perhaps it's because I am familiar with the concepts that this seem obvious to me, but here are the operating principles:

Higher loads require more inflation pressure.
Higher speeds require more inflation pressure.

I'm not sure why the Europeans list multiple pressures, but they do list the circumstances where this is applicable, so it's technically correct - if a bit impractical for use.

"… . In prior posts you also gloss over the OEM FORD placard on the Ford Explorer/Firestone debacle, which resulted in TIRE FAILURE. (26 psi was what was placarded?) …."

It was 26 psi. If I am not mistaken, it was the tire that was recalled, not the vehicle. This implies the tire was at fault and not the vehicle's placard.

In fact, Firestone commissioned a study of the tire design and pinpointed the fault in the design as well as the difference in the production process between the various plants where the tires were produced.

I personally did the math with regard to the Explorer's placard and there was enough load capacity at the pressure specified. However, there was no excess capacity (no reserve) and that was the point Firestone was trying to make - that there should have been, particularly considering that it was known that many folks don't maintain the inflation pressure and will allow their tires to run underinflated - some dangerously so.

"….. the math would suggest you AGREE/advocate with 73% of max tire wall pressure…….."

Let me state this clearly. I do not agree with ANY percentage. I disagree with the FORMULA, so the percentage is irrelevent.

What I find fault is in the reference in the formula to the pressure written on the sidewall of the tire. The value written there is not consistent among tire manufacturers and is therefore unreliable as a usage inflation or a starting point for a calculation.

So what formula do I advocate? The placard! - provided the same size tire as listed on the placard is used. In this case "same size tire" includes the letters as well as the numbers. The letters "P" and "XL" have meaning and need to be part of the selection process.

ruking1

..."Perhaps it's because I am familiar with the concepts that this seem obvious to me, but here are the operating principles:

Higher loads require more inflation pressure.
Higher speeds require more inflation pressure. "....

What in my post would lead you to believe that I would not be familiar with these same concepts or it was not logical to me? Especially if you look at my methodology, you would see that I apply it!? Is 38 PSI (85% of max sidewall pressure) higher or lower than either 26 psi or 32 psi?

The placard is arrived at BASED upon the calculations of the oem tires recommended which are usually 44 psi max tire sidewall pressure AND some with 51 psi max side wall pressure!!

So whether I or you disagree with this or not: 32/44 is STILL app 73% of max sidewall pressure!!! THE majority of tires ARE max side wall TP of 44 psi!!!

Also I find the Euro placard better to use, for not all transportation is done with say 1 150# or less driver and NO load.When you add in different speeds and loads, I am sure you understand why. The USA's placard tendency and the Ford/Firestone debacle to use one PSI really highlights why the 85% of max sidewall pressure not only make sense, but as you have referenced, it almost a no brainer when that one 150# or less loads up his car with 5 total folks and luggage. 85% of max tire wall pressure or 38 psi has the situation easily covered except for the most extreme circumstances. In the VW Jetta case just add 3 more psi to = 41 psi for max load.

Again, as you know, the problem is usually under inflation that is the cause of tire accidents (over inflation vs under inflation.) But as I have said 85% or 38#'s does not meet the parameters for over inflation.

capriracer

".....The placard is arrived at BASED upon the calculations of the oem tires recommended which are usually 44 psi max tire sidewall pressure AND some with 51 psi max side wall pressure!!...."

But not always, and that's the point I am trying to make.

But perhaps I should take a different tack!!

There is a pressure written on the sidewall of every tire. How is that value determined? Is it a test? Is it a calculated value?

And more importantly, why are there different pressures for the same size tire? Don't they have the same load carrying capacity at the same pressure?

vppc

Hi, Rob:

www.discounttire.com (Go to direct store site)

225/55/17 - proper upsize for your van.

B/F Goodrich Traction T/A (2nd in its class @ Tire Rack)

60,000 mile touring tire with excellent traction ratings.

$83.00 each at the above site.

Good Luck!
- Alex

ruking1

"There is a pressure written on the sidewall of every tire. "...

Isn't that one of the things I have been saying ALL along!!???

capriracer

"....Isn't that one of the things I have been saying ALL along!!???....."

Yes, but I thought we are discussing the meaning of what is written on the sidewall.

larnes

Hi. I bought a 2006 Escape Hybrid two weeks ago and it came with Continental tires. Right off the lot they were very noisy; just a constant roar. After mind numbing research and talking to different dealers, the two that were the most recommended were the Michelin Cross-Terrain and the Goodyear Fortera. After much agonizing, a few days later I had the Forteras installed.

I'm still not satisfied. I'm still getting a roar, but bumps are softened and smoother. I'm thinking of going back tomorrow and trying the Cross-Terrain which is what I should have done in the first place. Your praise of this tire is encouraging.

Larry

pdc2

Five days ago, I replaced the continental tires on my Ford Escape with Goodyear Fortera Silent Armor. The new tires seem to provide a much more comfortable and quiet ride - only about 100 miles on them now.

There are at least 4 different Fortera tires. I originally ordered Fortera Wrangler Silent Armor but when the tireman checked my tires, he asked why I wanted replacements for four perfectly good tires, I told him quiet and comfort were my main concern and he recommmended Fortera Silent Armor, (as against Fortera Wrangler Silent Armor which would be more noisy but much better off-road).

Incidentally, on the side wall of these new tires, it is stated that tire pressure should follow the owner's manual or the vehicle's placard.

larnes

Well, I decided to keep the Forteras after all. I'm sure the Escape doesn't have a lot of sound-deadening in it. We have a custom shop nearby that will install lead-impregnated material on the floor and guarantee a 75% reduction in noise. Of course everything in the car has to be removed, so that runs the price right up there. $200.00 for material, and the rest is labor. $936.00 total. It's worth it to me, because noise can be draining on long trips.

Thanks for the input.

electricdesign

Sorry to have to write this post, but when I saw the comments about the Dunlop Radial Rover A/T Tires, I just had to write, because I had bought a new set on 04/12/2003, and they are the very WORST TIRES I have ever owned. I have been looking at the RAV4 and a few other compact SUVs like the Honda Element and Saturn Vue and Pathfinder because I want to eventually get out of the gas guzzeling Explorer that I am now driving. I don't know how much difference it makes regarding the SIZE of the tires, or what VEHICLE they are mounted on, but the new ones I had put on my Explorer went bad, separating apart and failing, none caused a crash, one left me stranded for a bit. I always kept them balanced and rotated and properly inflated. The tires were doing well until the set had 25,344 miles on them, when the tire on the right front started to separate, the tread started bulging on one side, rode very bad, tire dealer would give me almost nothing for it, and I didn't want another one of those *!#! tires on my vehicle, so I put on a used Goodyear Wranger tire in it's place. Then when the set had 27,247 miles on it, the tire on the right rear went bad and started separating. I replaced it with a used Goodyear Wrangler tire. I was getting really mad at these tires now, and hoped the other two tires would last the expected life of 40,000 to 45,000 miles. No such luck. When the remaining set had 31,093 miles on them, the tire on the left rear separated, then blew apart leaving me stranded in the middle of a long bridge late on Saturday night. I wasn't stranded for long, as I put on the spare and went on my way. The next day, Sunday, I went down to another tire place and had both left tires replaced with used Goodyear Wrangler tires. It's been about 2000 miles now with no more tire problems. Next set I get will NOT be Dunlops. I hope yours do better than mine did.

corvette

Here's a question for those who know more about tire installation than I do: If I have wheels with stick-on weights, and I go to a tire shop and ask to have the wheels rebalanced, would most tire shops remove all of the finicky sticky weights as a matter of procedure and then reapply them, or will they first spin each wheel with the existing weights before removing and replacing any? It seems like, given their propensity to fly off, it would be prudent not to remove a well-adhered weight in case the wheel balance doesn't need any adjustments.

corvette

Thanks for the insight! My winter wheels (with adhesive weights) were road-force balanced by Tire Rack before being shipped. One of the weights is hanging by a thread of adhesive tape, and there was a slight vibration before I swapped the winter wheels for summers... I suppose I will just ask to have all four of them rebalanced in the fall and hope it turns out okay!

I like adhesive weights, despite their tendency to fall off... I think the hammer-on weights are eyesores.

kenndallas

I ran two sets of the Firestone ATX's (the tire that everyone said was causing roll overs) for 60K each set. Kept them balanced, rotated and inflated. Had the third set on my Navajo when I sold it with 125K miles on it.

ruking1

It would be interesting to know what PSI you used.

capriracer

It would also be interesting if these tires were inside or outside the recall time interval (as determined by the date of manufacture).

And the obvious question is: Why didn't you turn the tires in when they were recalled (if they were in the recall time interval)?

master1

Anyone had any experience with the Yokohama Geolander HT-S G051 tire? Good in snow? Good on dry? Please share your thoughts.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=Geolandar+H%- 2FT-S+G051&vehicleSearch=true&partnum=27SR6GEOHTSOWL&fromCompare1=yes&place=1

Thanks

rs_petty

I put a set on my Tundra (265/70/16) and they are a nice smooth quiet tire. Replaced Toyo Open Country. No snow experience yet but seem fine in the wet. I don't drive much in the snow so wasn't a concern for me. I was after ride comfort and quiet. On those two counts they are excellent tires. Got mine from discounttire w/free shipping so worked out a little cheaper than tirerack. Fortunatly, my local shop has been perfect on balancing the last 2 sets of tires. Major difference in any tire. So far wear seems normal.

downeaster1959

I just bought an 06 Accord EX 4-cyl car, a demo with 6,000 miles on it. It comes with Bridgestone Turanza EL 41 tires, size 205-60-16 91V. I've had the car only a few days, but so far have noticed no problems with the tires. Has anyone out there had experience with these tires? How would they compare to other tires often recommended by people, such as the Turanza LS-V, the Michelin MXV4 S8, on the Falken Ziex? I presume that most V-rated tires will handle well. I'm looking for a tire that is reasonably comfortable and quiet, has good wet traction, and reasonably low rolling resistance. I use winter tires, so snow traction is not as important. Thank you for any input you can offer, as well as any other recommendations you may have.

moparbad

OEM Tires on my Sentra are 195/55/16 Firestone Firehawk.

What are my options to replace this tire? The only direct size replacement all-season I could find (that was not a $200+ run flat) was the same Firestone Firehawk.

Priorities are-
1. Minimize speedometer error or no error
2. Wet/Snow traction. Need an all-season.
3. Handling
4. Price
5. Quiet

The 195/55/16 size is VERY limited in selection!!

pathstar1

You could use a Nokian WR as listed here: http://www.nokiantires.com/newsite/tires_popup.cfm?id=6

Same size you want, excellant wet and winter traction, though not as good as an "ice tire". It's quiet and wears well on warm dry roads (100,000 km wear warranty). I use the SUV version all year round on my Pathfinder. The SUV version is just a heavier construction version.
It isn't cheap, but you get what you pay for.
Dealer locator here: http://www.nokiantires.com/newsite/map.cfm

stickguy

a 215/50 is almost identical (about .1" diff) to your size, so you won't notice any difference to the speedo. But, it is wider, and you may have clearance issues.

a 205/50 is about 1.5% different, still probably within range of not really noticing.

You can check with tire rack (tirerack.com). They can tell you what sizes should fit on the wheel.

Also a good place to compare the choices in any size, although they don't carry ever tire brand.

master1

Thank you for you response. I will be purchasing those for my Toyota Highlander except from TireRack. Thanks again for your feedback. :shades:

wai

Is it necessary for a tire's yellow dot to mount exactly the same line as the valve stem on the rim to be perfectly balanced?

capriracer

Unfortunately, there isn't a standard in the tire industry about dots on the sidewall. The yellow dot might mean the radial high point - which should be aligned with the valve stem - but it could also mean something else - like an inspection dot - and then lining it up with the valve stem does no harm, but doesn't help either.

In the case where it does indicate the radial high point, close is close enough.

BTW,if the tire has a dot for radial high point, this is a force variation thing - sort of like "loaded runout" - and not related to balance. That is why you can have tires perfectly balanced and still have a vibration.

wai

So you are saying that if my tires are not matched the dot on the rim valve stem after mounting, the rim is originally bent if the the tire installer doesn't add any weight to the tire/rim.

micweb

195/60x15 replaced with same size.

The OEM tires were surprisingly good - very quiet (I mean VERY quiet) and smooth. Good grip, but I hit the limit quickly on this low center of gravity coupe if I took curves aggressively. No screeching, but it felt like the sidewalls were tucking under.

The Falken replacements have a noticeably stiffer sidewall (H rated performance all season tire vs. the OEM S rated touring tire, so no big surprise); they ride very smoothly on smooth roads (not noticeably out of round or with noticeable "road force" variations) but transmit expansion strip jolts more than the OEM tires; they have slightly faster steering input; they don't feel like they are tucking under in curves, but they do reveal the handling limitations of the stock suspension (now the suspension is at its limit before the tires, before it was vice versa). In terms of noise levels, these are by hands down the most quiet all season performance tires I have had (quieter than Bridgestone 950's) but the OEM tires were actually quieter, making them the quietest tire I have ever owned.

Overall, a nice but not necessary upgrade. The main value is moving from a tire with generally poor reviews on tirerack.com (the Contis) to a tire that won the performance tire shoot-out at Consumer Reports three years ago - and it was competing against some good, better know tires. Based on my experience, the Consumer Reports reviews are more accurate than the consumer reviews on tirerack.com; the Conti OEM on the Cobalt is a real winner, not the dog the consumer reviews would have you believe.

(I drove the Contis in the heavy spring rains we had; I have driven Falken ZE512's in heavy rain on other cars; both are good.)

$188 for four tires from Discount Tires Direct, drop shipped to their sister company Americas Tire Store which installed and Road Force balanced them (Hunter 9700) for $100. The total was much cheaper than my last two tire changes.

I recycled the OEM tires by selling them on Craigslist for $80, so much fun was had by all.

capriracer

Although you're replying to BigAl, the answer is no! You can not tell anything about a bent rim just by looking at the balance weight (or lack thereof).

lf05tl

I saw when i was putting tire shine on the tires that the IDIOT at the dealer rotated the tires wrong. I have the Goodyear assurance triple tread directional tires. The rear tires are ok. The fronts, the directional arrow on side wall is going wrong way. Untill we go back, what problems will be caused by this? Thanks.

pathstar1

Be careful in rain (or snow for that season). The tread is optimised for removal in one direction only. You may notice a slightly lower level of traction even on dry roads, but you'd have to be pretty sensitive to notice it - if you were racing on a track for example.

lf05tl

Thanks guys. I feel better but it will get changed back.

jeepin12

Hi, I have 4 Good-Year Fortera TripleTread Tires Size P245/70R16 that I bought last year and 2 of the 4 were punctured by nails. What should I do? How long can I drive on them before I have to fix them?

Thanks for suggestions!

capriracer

You should get the tires repaired ASAP!

Aside from air leaking out, air now has a pathway into the casing of the tire, increasing the probability of a separation.

Be sure they use a plug / patch combination repair. The patch is there to hold the air and reinforce the damaged area, and the plug is there to prevent moisure from getting to the steel belts.

Hope this helps.

wai

Just a silly question regarding tire rotation, for a FWD vehicle with four new high performance directional summer tires, if the first tire rotation from front to back and vice versa occurred at 6,000 miles, can we have the second rotation after another 12,000 miles to save the cost of tire rotation and the third tire rotation at 24,000 miles. This will ensure that the tire will be evenly wear out during the lifespan of the tire, assuming about 32,000 miles.

mordster

Hi
You say the OEM S tyre is by far the quietest tyre ... what is an OEM tyre ? Is it a Continental brand or Falken ???

I am after the quietest tyre for my Peugeot 185/65/R14 and am currently running the original Michelin Energy XH1 but they have become very noisy in that they don't absorb any holes or rough surfaces well [especially the front two]

Someone else has recommended the Yokohama AVS dB as it was designed especially for noise reduction. What would you recommend?
kind regards
robbi

micweb

"OEM" means original equipment manufacturer, so it is just short for "stock tire". The actual tire was the Continental Conti Touring Contact A/S with an "S" speed rating. For the Cobalt, it also has a GM "tire specification code" which means GM, like most manufacturers, may have asked the tire company to "tweak" their tire slightly to emphasize qualities that the car company thinks are most important, such as improved fuel economy or quieter ride. Of course too much tweaking would essentially result in a tire that only resembles the version already made by the tire company, so don't expect much tweaking. Tire Rack, over here, is one of the few companies that stocks and sells both the oem version and the "public" version, in the same size, for people who want to make sure they get the exact same tire put on their car by the maker.

I can't comment on European tires for a Peugot. I suspect that tread patterns and speed ratings are different in Europe than over here, even for tires that are sold under the same brand name. You should probably check with a European tyre enthusiast website.

The Yokohams AVS dB is sold as a "quiet" tire, but the versions I have seen over here are "V" rated and V tires are usually stiffer and noiser than more moderately rated tires. So it may be quiet for a performance tire, but not as quiet as a standard passenger tire.

The tires that Consumer Reports top rated, for standard passender (not performance) use over here are the Michelin X DT sold over here ONLY in warehouse stores (Sams, Costco, BJ's) and the Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread. The Triple Tread is probably available in Europe; the X isn't even widely available over here, and may either be exclusive to the USA and the discount warehouses, or may be sold under some totally different name in Europe.

In all season performance tires, the quietest tires at Consumer Reports were the Falkens, at #1; the Bridestone Turanza T (I think, not the H rated version); and the Bridgestone 950 (replaced since then by the 960).

As Consumer Reports points out, "ordinary passenger tires" are starting to handle like performance tires, and "performance all season tires" are starting to ride (soft, quiet) like ordinary passenger tires, so categories are blurring.

capriracer

I'm not sure why you want to use such an odd rotation schedule, but the important thing is to make sure the tires don't spen too much time on a given wheel position. This may lead to irregular wear and that results in noise and vibration. Certainly if you have a vehicle that is in good alignment, then 12,000 miles is not an outlandish figure.

But don't forgot, you need to check the inflation pressure more often than that!

wai

My vehicle has only 19,000 miles only and I am pretty sure that the alignment is good. The rational behind that is once you rotate from front to back, the front tire now has more tread to wear than the back one, it will take a longer mileage after your first rotation to have the front tire wear out more than the back tire. for a FWD. Every tire rotation cost $20-25 and a trip to the tire stores. So I want to mininize the no of tire rotation.
I check my tire pressure every week with a precise quick car tire gauge.

imidazol97

>front to back, the front tire now has more tread to wear than the back one,

On FWD the front wears 4-5 times faster than the backs, so that "excess" rubber is going to be equalized in the same 6K miles that the tires were in their original positions. The idea of rotation is that each tire stays on one position the same number of miles and the wear is equalized among all four tires.

LWhat you need to do is buy your tires at a store that has a lifetime rotation and balancing guarantee and means it.

ruking1

Indeed this is not a silly question. I however would ask what your oem data indicates. One reason why, is the oem generally has maximized the wear cycle. Given certain variables.

Off topic but to illustrate, My OEM Goodyear LS-H's are at 75,000 miles and with a 10,000 mile rotation cycle on a 2003 VW Jetta TDI. (factory alignment and balance) It truly looks good to go to a min of 100,000 miles. For the purposes of discussion,

(I hate run my fingernails across the chalkboard so to speakl as this drives Capriracer crazy)

but I have run 85% of max tire wall pressure since new or 38 F /36 R psi.

I am as pleasantly surprised as anyone in that the GY LS-H have almost to the owner has been vilified in every VW Jetta TDI topic thread that I follow.

While you do not mention the vehicle, my FWD Jetta tends to run the right side tread (specifically right front tire) faster than the left side tread. It also recommends same side, front to rear : rear to front rotations.

wai

In replying to Imidazol and you, Mine is 04 Jetta VR6 with 35 lb front & 42 lb back. My tire Dunlop SP9000 with a treadwear of 280, has my estimated life of 35,000 miles. I put these on my Jetta to replace the old GY RSA stock tire with 13,000 miles driving like a hard rock. Now after 6000 miles, I only see the major variance of wear on the shoulders (2 times as much), but the flat main area is only 1.5 times difference. So I plan to rotate now and wait to second rotate on 17,000 miles and third rotate at 27,000 miles.
Tires are bought from Tirerack at a good deal & installed by an independent garage, and I have not paid for any lifetime tire rotation.
For Ruking, it is understandable that your right tire tread wears more because it seems that you drive mostly at the slow lane and the slow lane always are not that good condition.

ruking1

"For Ruking, it is understandable that your right tire tread wears more because it seems that you drive mostly at the slow lane and the slow lane always are not that good condition. "

Too funny! While a complete and utter misreading of what I wrote, you might have something there in that the left lane is usually the slow lane as a lot of folks are LLC'ers. The extreme right or "slow lane" is the defacto fast or passing lane.

wai

Ruking, I don't meant to offend you as driving slow. What I mean that the slow lane means the extreme right lane usually has more holes and drainage covers, thats why it wear the right tires more.

ruking1

Well as you continue to misread what was written, let me just say the VW Jetta technical data indicates the right side as wearing more: rotors, pads, bearings, tires and alignment procedures to correct this. Most of the reason for this is 1. front wheel drive 2. right side front being the primary power side.

So most folks do not know, care or even pay attention to this and just replace what is needed when worn.

So in any case, I hope you enjoy your ride!

canufixit

Hi All,
(I'm usually in the S10 Forum - but I cross posted to here for better visability - Hi all !!)

OK, I've bought the tires and thought I'd give some feedback and ask a question to all on the net ...

- I Purchased qty 4 Toyo A/T open country p235/75R 105S.
Replacing - 4 Good Year Wranglers (R/ST ?) - same size tire (OE) - on a 2002 Sonoma.

- I'd say the Wranglers had a tad more "Rumble" noise. The drive train in the truck is a little more noticable - but I do hear the new tires - suspecting increased air noise from the tread. Not too bad - but there is a difference. Perhaps to the fact the old tires had low tread and the new one have have maximun ...

-Traction seems much bettter -dry and wet - and handling is better.

- Tires are inflated to 34/35 lbs - and the ride is slighty worse on bumps and small holes - but not real worse. I'll try dropping the pressure down to 32 once I'm sure the Alu wheels are not leaking at the rims (I did have them cleaned and coated ..)

Overall - the tire seems OK - but a little more "truckie" and my not be a great fit for an SUV - But usually the SUV's vs the trucks have more body insulation - so perhaps the noise is not noticable...

Now - and my only major concern - when I get up to High way speeds - at about 65 -ish - I get a very slight washboard like vibration. Kinda like you can feel the large tire tread cleats hitting the pavement and making a buzzyou can feel inthe body. Steering Wheel is virtually no vibs - it's partialy noise and partialy feel in the Body. Kinda hard to explain. It "Might" be a minor wheel balance issue - And I'm thinking of having the balance re-checked. But this might not be so ... Again - it's at over 60 MPH (I normally do not hit 70) when I get this - and it is minor. But if I was doing long hours at high speed (which I do not) - it would probably wear on my nerves a little ...

Any comments ??

Regards,
Canufixit

micweb

The only balancing that I have found that will get rid of minor tremble is the Hunter GSP9700 "Road Force" machine. Go to

http://www.hunter.com/pub/product/balancer/4159T/index.htm

for an explanation and to find a tire center that has one. Costs $10-20 per wheel, they sometimes have to remount a tire to a different location on the wheel.

imidazol97

What tires has anyone put on their Pacifica. My friend with 04 FWD wants to replace his Michelin Mxv4s
Comments on your replacements?

wai

Thanks for your suggestion, I just made a tire rotation from the place I bought the tire after 6,000 miles driven for $22.00. I don't think I need a lifetime rotation, as I only need at most two more rotations at 16,000 and 26,000.
Or I may skip the next two rotations if I like to try some other new tires.

canufixit

Thanks bigal !!

I finally had the chance (due to weather and traffic) to try to do some testing at highway speed ... Vib starts at 60 - is worst at 65-68 and disappears at 70-71 (various different surfaces/pavemnt tried). So I'm convinced it a balance issue as I can "Drive through" the issue.

I'm bringing the truck back to the tire place - and have them check balance and fix it ...

I'll advise!
Thanks,
Canufixit