Returned to Tire dealer today (took Early Lunch)...
(Add in typical Bit*H to Dealer here ..)...
Short answer ..
LF and RR tires were out of round. (Diagonal probably made it worse as well ??) one Tire was approx 1/16" out (a rough guess by eye) - the other was more - probably 1/8" ... RIMs looked right on ...
Also - I checked the tire iteslf for max tire pressure - they told me it was 44 and to put in 35.... (and then it road like a rock ...) Tire actually said max was 35 - so I "Told THEM " to put it back to 32 (Per the Car /Door Sticker - Duh!) ...
What a difference !! I still need to get on the highway - but ride, feel, smoothness - all noticibly better ....
Need to get it on the Highway and up to 65-ish = + Get some time on the tires for better comparision/feel ... but I'm much more confident and satisfieed already ...
I too had that same harmonic vibration on 265/70-16. Had 2 different places balance with the Hunter and no improvement. Chalked it up to the tires and when they wore out replaced with Yokohamas. I won't buy Toyo again.
I'm going to give the Cooper Zeon Sport A/S a try on my '04 Infiniti G35X. Tire guy recommends them over RS-A's and I'll save $200 for the set. Supposedly quieter and longer treadware to boot. We'll see..
Go to www.costco.com and see if they make a Michelin X in your tire size. Consumer Reports gives this tire the #2 spot in their Nov. '05 review of passenger car tires. Costco is offering $60 off a set of four through the end (I believe) of June. I just got a set for our PT Cruiser and they are very quiet, but handle better than the stock Goodyear LS tires. The Michelin X is a "branded" tire offered only through Sam's Club and Costco plus a third warehouse store whose name escapes me. I think they actually rated higher than Michelin's own Hydroedge and MXV4 series....
(The Goodyear Assurance Tripletread got the #1 spot by a hair.)
I have my car in to the dealer for warranty service today. I know i need a full set of tires. The question is.... Do I get an alignment now before i get the new tires while my car is in the dealer for warranty work, or after i get the new tires by the tire shop? (or after by the dealer}?
The wear on the tires slightly affects the alignment, so it's "ideally" best to get the tires first.
Dealer alignments are often best, but cost more. Check what kind of alignment equipment your dealer uses, whether they have a tech who specializes in the alignment (experience counts) and whether they will match the Firestone/Sear's prices, which are generally a good indicator for fair pricing ($59.95-$89.95 for 4 wheel alignment).
I have a Mazda 6i, so I don't know whether it requires any type of 'special' alignment or a run of the mill alignment. And the dealer I go to sells and services many brands of cars (Porche's and Mercedes in addition to Mazda) so maybe they will have someone there that specializes in alignments.
This seems to be an active board, so I'll ask here. [Mod, if this belongs elsewhere, I'm sure you'll move it. ]
One of my tires (a Michelin that retails for about $185) has a slow leak. It's losing about 1/2 lb of air per day. What are my options (other than buying a new tire)?
Leak isolation, done at your trusted tire shop. From the signals, you mention there is definitely something going on. Just normal pressure loss is app 1# per mo. You have 15/16#'s per mo. So it can be as easy some sort of tire puncture (which it probably is more likely to be) to a strutural problem with the rim or tire and or the joining of the two.
I'd also throw in a new valve stem, as insuranc; and almost all tire repairs now are "double repairs," both a plug and a patch (the plug to keep moisture out of the read layers and help seal the air in, the patch to keep air pressure from potentially forcing the plug out - some shops only do plug repair since they don't have to remove the tire to do so).
Exact same thing with my Yokohama Avid T4's a couple weeks ago. Losing about 1/2lb a day...looked for nail...nothing. Took it to tire dealership, it had a small nail in it. $15 to repair.
Every OEM tires come with the vehicle usually is of lower quality because the manufacturer wants to save cost, the buyers will not know when they test drive the vehicle. So its better to change the stock tire within three months of ownership.
I'm replacing the tires on my minivan and was quoted by a local shop for Mirada Sport GTX tires. They are sold under the Multimile name (or Cordovan) They fit all specs. for the van (speed rating, load rating, etc.) but there is very little informaiton available on the tires. Supposedly they are made by Cooper Tires.
Can anyone give me any informaiton on these tires?
Have these on my new '06 Civic LX and not that happy with them. Goodyear doesn't have that trade-in policy on new OEM tires anymore. Guess I got spoiled with the Bridgestone LS-T's on my last car. They were pretty awesome. Saw some nice Goodyears though at the shop. Assurance I think was their name. I also like Cooper Lifeliner tires. Just wondering how all these tires match up in terms of driveability and such. Really need a great rain tire down here in South Florida. Wonder what the mileage figures are on the RS-A's. The Goodyear guy really pushed for me to put nitrogen into the RS-A's. What's the big to do about nitrogen instead of regular air? If it can give a better overall ride, I might seriously consider this.
I have nitrogen in one set of tires. The only real practical difference is you have to check and fill tires a whole lot less often. The checking procedure is a bit of a catch 22 in that you wind up checking it about the same rate just to make sure it is really true and so you in effect wind up letting a lot more nitrogen go vs checking it every one month instead of every three to four months. The same tires that worked well on your other car will work well on your new 06 LX. I think the difference is your old one was probably rated S/T vs H for the 06 LX. So obviously search for those tires in the speed rating on the new 06 LX.
I felt the same with OEM RSA on my Jetta, I changed to Dunlop SP9000 after 13,000 miles on it, the ride quality and handling in the rain is exceptionally good. Right now Tirerack sell for $123 each, which is a very bargain. In my opinion, this is the best rainy tire in the market.
I am curious about the nitrogen used. The atmosphere is 80% nitrogen or thereabouts. How does using nitrogen instead of the other 18% oxygen and 2% carbon dioxide make a difference?
Sure, as a rule of thumb you lose app 1# per mo. So in my case that is say 1/36 PSI = app 2.7% per mo. Again in theory nitrogen does not pass thru rubber as easily as 02. So usually I do in fact lose 1# per mo and with the nitrogen filled tires lose app 1# each 3/4 mo.
In terms of effect affect to the ride quality, I do not feel a thing different.
About 3 years ago (at 20k miles) I replaced my OEM MXV4s with Toyo Proxes (based on some recommendations here on Edmunds) after a minor accident took out the 2 passenger side tires. Not 3 years later (at 50k), I just recently blew the front drivers side, and have temporarily re-installed one of the MXV4's I'd kept in storage.
I'm now considering just replacing all 4 tires, even though the Toyos on the rear only have about 35k on them and look to be in decent shape tread-wise (although I noticed a cut in the sidewall of one the other day). I'm currently looking at the Falken Ziex or possibly the Dunlop SP Sport A2, particularly from a price/performance standpoint (Falken is about $70 at the local Sears, Dunlop is about $70 at TireRack.com).
The OEM spec is 205/60/16 91V. It's a tough size to find, but available. The Falken is rated as a 92H. The Dunlop is rated as a 91H. Is this a significant difference? I'm more concerned about the speed rating differential on both than the load rating of the Falken, considering that the spec for the Accord is a V rating.
A couple things to note...1) I only have 50k miles on the car since my commute varies between 15 and 35 miles r/t per day and we usually use our suv on the weekends...2) I'm starting to get bored with this car and may replace it in the next year or two, so high treadlife is not especially important...3) I do push the car and tend to drive it hard (don't we all?!?), but I also maintain it pretty well...4) I'm was not a big fan of the Michelin MXV4 series, at least not the OEM equipment, which I found very sloppy esp. in rainy conditions, compared to the Toyos I'd replaced them with, but I'm not prepared to drop $130+ per tire, given 1) and 2) above...5) I live in central NJ, so although snow/ice is an occasional consideration, so I do not expect to purchase dedicated snow tires.
What are you riding on? Any specific experience with either of the above tires, particularly for my vehicle, is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help,
It is not about oxygen or nitrogen or air. It is about moisture aka water in air. Water is liquid in normal temperature but when heated (like inside tire or kettle or boiler) it expands (quite significantly I must say) and increases pressure. Using "dry" (I think I saw such description somewhere) air or nitrogen removes water vapour from mixture and makes pressure inside tire more linear (very important for high speed applications).
H-speed ratings are okay for the Accord, as long as you maintain the minimum 91 load rating, which your choices have as well. Of those two choices, I'd prefer the Dunlop, hearing good things about those tires.
I own a Mazda 6, which is very similar in set-up to the Accord. Two of the more-popular choices that other 6 owners have replaced their OEMs (the same size and type of Michelin that you had) are the Bridgestone Potenza G 009 (92H) and Yokohama Avid V4S (91V). I've heard nothing but great things about these tires, and they come highly recommended on Tire Rack as well. Both are $75 at Tire Rack. Even the Yoko Avid H4S (91H) comes in your size and load rating for only $70.
I hope this helps. Good luck with whatever tire you choose.
Avid H4S will break loose without any warning, this happens in my 97 Civic EX Coupe when I go up a ramp at high speed, my rear tires break loose almost got me in trouble.
I put Turanza LS-H on an Acura Legend, that also called for V-rated tires... The tires are fantastic... the car doesn't get driven that much, so I can't speak for wear, but ride/handling and wet weather traction are great... the drawback? pricey...
I don't think you're going to lose a different amount due to nitrogen, pure nitrogen, inflation. I read up on the theory and it is applicable to semi truck tires where they go hundreds or thousands of miles and oxygen deteriorates the rubber by permeation, slowly. That is reduced by using a sealing coat inside the tires.
I suspect your lower rate of loss is due to new tires with different seal at the rims or internally.
I am not convinced and I have knowledge related to this area. But we disagree and that's okay. Enjoy and may you not get a nail in a 7 day-old new tire like I did when I bought my x-Ones a few years back! Nothing more aggravating than a new tire with a plug in it! Nitrogen or air. grin:
Well for sure, and thank you for the good wishes. I really am not trying to convince you otherwise. But I am saying what my experiences are/were. I have to tell you I do the nitrogen only because the place I bought the tires from uses it. No way I would pay extra for this. So from my point of view, while I do like NOT having to fill the tires for app 1.5 years, I would not necessarily recommend for or against. In fact I did skip two rotations, and 1.5 years have passed, and a bit more than 10,000 miles on a 5,000 mile cycle. So all I have done in that time was check the TP app 17 times and have lost 1# or so. Previously and for the other 16 tires, I am pretty well used to the 1# per mo loss gig. In fact, before I changed the (4)tires that are on the vehicle with nitrogen in the tires, also as you probably would guess, IT LOST air at the 1# per mo rate.
Can anyone suggest me about the tires and wheels I should use for Toyota Corolla 2000 for optimum performance? Right now I have Pirelli tires. Also, what should be the tire pressure? Thank you.
So far I hate these tires...the rear grip around corners feels too light, like the car wants to slide a bit. Would playing with the air pressure or even using nitrogen help this situation?
With the Turanza LS-T's on the old Sentra, I ran 35 psi all around and felt very secure with any manuever especially in the rain. Also, my tire shop also recommended 35 psi. Maybe 32 psi would be a better compromise with this brand.
Just as I had suspected, there was 40 psi all the way around. Lowered it to 35 all around and will see tomorrow if the ride improves a bit. Found out they also played with tire locations on the car, as it had a right pull on the test drive on Saturday. They were supposed to do an alignment check on Monday before I took posession, but in fact only moved the tires around. Went back early Wednesday morning for the requested alignment check, & the toe was either in or out a bit. Enough though to have an adjustment made. Wish they had done all this on Monday, as I wouldn't have had to make a return trip Wednesday. The dealership is a good 25 mile drive, so any other service will probaly be done at the nearer Honda dealer. They gave me the 5k, 10k & 15k mile service also with my deal, but I can use any of the AutoNation dealers for these services, which is great because there's one within 2 miles of my house.
Jumpin Jimminee!! I have a Honda Civic 2004 and started off with 38 psi front/rear and it was almost as if there were no suspension! . I NOW run 35 psi all around as it is the oem recommendation for sustained higher speeds. Let us know what your impressions are with 35 psi (not sure if the 2006 model year has changed it recommendation or not) and also a more compliant alignment.
Will find out tomorrow morning how this pressure will effect the ride & tracking. The door placard says 32 all around...might eventually try that pressure. Got a call from Honda tonite about the overall buying experience and just gave 'em all 5's...didn't want to slam them over the tire pressure being way to much. But will probaly send off a note to the General Manager to let him know that not all the procedures were followed in their "PDI" process for new cars. I was surprisingly very patient with them over some things that could've been handled differently. But life's getting to short to stress out about little things...the GM even thanked me for my patience with the whole process.
In May, I got a new set of tires of my 97 Accord (170,000 miles). I decided to go with Yokohama Avids since many people on USENET and Tire Rack had great things to say about them on 94-97 accord.
After getting them on, I noticed a pull to the left and squirrely handling. Kind of like the car was tracking every bit of road texture on the freeway and skidding side to side as if there was constant crosswind. Definitely not what you would expect on a Honda Accord. I had a friend drive the car just to verify my hunch and indeed he said this is an unstable ride. I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that these are directional tires (which by the way look correctly installed by the arrows on the tires).
To try to correct this, I got a 4-wheel alignment (which it needed) yet my mechanic still found a pull to the left, that would oddly go away if the tires were rotated front to rear. But I still had squirrely handling regardless how the tires were rotated. One rotation configuration gave me a pull to the left, the other configuration gave me a wallowy ride on many bumps and dips in the road.
Rotating just the left side caused the pull to appear is one configuration and dissapear in another. The tire place replaced the front left tire (with the rotation configuration causing the pull). Then when that didn't work they took the old tire from the front left that they replaced and put it on the rear left, and that still didn't correct the pull.
As you can see this is turning into a complicated and frustrating story. The tire place is now saying that they will replace all 4 tires with another brand. I am leaning towards Michelin Pilot exaltos. So I am looking for recommendations and advice on how to avoid another set that would cause such problems.
Some important info * My trusted mechanic (repaired only Hondas for 20 years) said my suspension is in fine shape. He doesnt see anything that could be causing this * I got my new Monroe Sensatrak struts in January. I had a set of them before with no problems and I didn't notice anything odd when they installed them, with my old tires on.
Is your tire H4S? I have it installed on my 97 Civic, and the one rear left tire got nailed and completely flat within one night within two months of purchase. Then I replaced it with Michelin Pilot HX and put it in front. One day, when I turn too fsst in a bend and my rear tires (the pair of H4S) got loose without any warning. Its so scary that I am afraid to drive too fast with these H4S.
Any one with any experience with the Nokian Vatiiva or Nokian WR SUV tires? I am in the process of replacing the tires on my 2004 Tahoe and looks like the Nokians are a good fit. I am looking for all season highway usage. Or any other recomendations ?
Its time for new tires and my current Michelin's have been discontinued so :confuse: Im not sure which way to go and was hoping for some advice on what tires to choose for my 96 Accord Sedan LX 4-cyl...Does anyone know the effect it would have if I went with 14's instead of the 15's that are on there now or if it would be a better benefit to go larger like say 16's, 17's or to stay with the 15's..I live in South Florida so I need tires that can handle the rainy, pot hole filled streets and any recommendations on brands would be great, Thanks
I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS sedan with 19,000 trouble free miles so far. The OEM tires are the Michelins MXV4 plus and I would like to replace them... Im looking at either the Kumho Solus KH16 or the Cooper Lifeliner SLE. Which tire would provide the more smoother, comfortable ride, be better in the rain and have the best treadwear life? The Cooper is rated at 70,000 miles The Kumho is rated at 60,000 miles
Comments
Returned to Tire dealer today (took Early Lunch)...
(Add in typical Bit*H to Dealer here ..)...
Short answer ..
LF and RR tires were out of round. (Diagonal probably made it worse as well ??) one Tire was approx 1/16" out (a rough guess by eye) - the other was more - probably 1/8" ... RIMs looked right on ...
Also - I checked the tire iteslf for max tire pressure - they told me it was 44 and to put in 35.... (and then it road like a rock ...) Tire actually said max was 35 - so I "Told THEM " to put it back to 32 (Per the Car /Door Sticker - Duh!) ...
What a difference !! I still need to get on the highway - but ride, feel, smoothness - all noticibly better ....
Need to get it on the Highway and up to 65-ish = + Get some time on the tires for better comparision/feel ... but I'm much more confident and satisfieed already ...
More to Come ...
Canufixit
Any recommendations for replacements for the 03 accord v6.
Thanks
(The Goodyear Assurance Tripletread got the #1 spot by a hair.)
Dealer alignments are often best, but cost more. Check what kind of alignment equipment your dealer uses, whether they have a tech who specializes in the alignment (experience counts) and whether they will match the Firestone/Sear's prices, which are generally a good indicator for fair pricing ($59.95-$89.95 for 4 wheel alignment).
One of my tires (a Michelin that retails for about $185) has a slow leak. It's losing about 1/2 lb of air per day. What are my options (other than buying a new tire)?
Can anyone give me any informaiton on these tires?
The Goodyear guy really pushed for me to put nitrogen into the RS-A's. What's the big to do about nitrogen instead of regular air? If it can give a better overall ride, I might seriously consider this.
The Sandman :confuse:
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
In terms of effect affect to the ride quality, I do not feel a thing different.
About 3 years ago (at 20k miles) I replaced my OEM MXV4s with Toyo Proxes (based on some recommendations here on Edmunds) after a minor accident took out the 2 passenger side tires. Not 3 years later (at 50k), I just recently blew the front drivers side, and have temporarily re-installed one of the MXV4's I'd kept in storage.
I'm now considering just replacing all 4 tires, even though the Toyos on the rear only have about 35k on them and look to be in decent shape tread-wise (although I noticed a cut in the sidewall of one the other day). I'm currently looking at the Falken Ziex or possibly the Dunlop SP Sport A2, particularly from a price/performance standpoint (Falken is about $70 at the local Sears, Dunlop is about $70 at TireRack.com).
The OEM spec is 205/60/16 91V. It's a tough size to find, but available. The Falken is rated as a 92H. The Dunlop is rated as a 91H. Is this a significant difference? I'm more concerned about the speed rating differential on both than the load rating of the Falken, considering that the spec for the Accord is a V rating.
A couple things to note...1) I only have 50k miles on the car since my commute varies between 15 and 35 miles r/t per day and we usually use our suv on the weekends...2) I'm starting to get bored with this car and may replace it in the next year or two, so high treadlife is not especially important...3) I do push the car and tend to drive it hard (don't we all?!?), but I also maintain it pretty well...4) I'm was not a big fan of the Michelin MXV4 series, at least not the OEM equipment, which I found very sloppy esp. in rainy conditions, compared to the Toyos I'd replaced them with, but I'm not prepared to drop $130+ per tire, given 1) and 2) above...5) I live in central NJ, so although snow/ice is an occasional consideration, so I do not expect to purchase dedicated snow tires.
What are you riding on?
Any specific experience with either of the above tires, particularly for my vehicle, is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help,
Rich
Using "dry" (I think I saw such description somewhere) air or nitrogen removes water vapour from mixture and makes pressure inside tire more linear (very important for high speed applications).
Krzys
I own a Mazda 6, which is very similar in set-up to the Accord. Two of the more-popular choices that other 6 owners have replaced their OEMs (the same size and type of Michelin that you had) are the Bridgestone Potenza G 009 (92H) and Yokohama Avid V4S (91V). I've heard nothing but great things about these tires, and they come highly recommended on Tire Rack as well. Both are $75 at Tire Rack. Even the Yoko Avid H4S (91H) comes in your size and load rating for only $70.
I hope this helps. Good luck with whatever tire you choose.
I will look into both of those.
Any thoughts on either Bridgestone Turanza LS-V or Goodyear Assurance TripleTreads?
Rich
regards,
kyfdx
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I suspect your lower rate of loss is due to new tires with different seal at the rims or internally.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The Sandman
The Sandman
Wish they had done all this on Monday, as I wouldn't have had to make a return trip Wednesday. The dealership is a good 25 mile drive, so any other service will probaly be done at the nearer Honda dealer.
They gave me the 5k, 10k & 15k mile service also with my deal, but I can use any of the AutoNation dealers for these services, which is great because there's one within 2 miles of my house.
The Sandman
Seconded. Probably the best touring tire out there, but they are pricier than your other choices.
Got a call from Honda tonite about the overall buying experience and just gave 'em all 5's...didn't want to slam them over the tire pressure being way to much. But will probaly send off a note to the General Manager to let him know that not all the procedures were followed in their "PDI" process for new cars.
I was surprisingly very patient with them over some things that could've been handled differently. But life's getting to short to stress out about little things...the GM even thanked me for my patience with the whole process.
The Sandman
I decided to go with Yokohama Avids since many people on USENET and
Tire Rack had great things to say about them on 94-97 accord.
After getting them on, I noticed a pull to the left and squirrely
handling. Kind of like the car was tracking every bit of road texture
on the freeway and skidding side to side as if there was constant
crosswind. Definitely not what you would expect on a Honda Accord.
I had a friend drive the car just to verify my hunch and indeed he said
this is an unstable ride.
I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that these are
directional tires (which by the way look correctly installed by the
arrows on the tires).
To try to correct this, I got a 4-wheel alignment (which it needed) yet
my mechanic still found a pull to the left, that would oddly go away if
the tires were rotated front to rear. But I still had squirrely
handling regardless how the tires were rotated. One rotation
configuration gave me a pull to the left, the other configuration gave
me a wallowy ride on many bumps and dips in the road.
Rotating just the left side caused the pull to appear is one
configuration and dissapear in another. The tire place replaced the
front left tire (with the rotation configuration causing the pull).
Then when that didn't work they took the old tire from the front left
that they replaced and put it on the rear left, and that still didn't
correct the pull.
As you can see this is turning into a complicated and frustrating
story.
The tire place is now saying that they will replace all 4 tires with
another brand.
I am leaning towards Michelin Pilot exaltos.
So I am looking for recommendations and advice on how to avoid another
set that would cause such problems.
Some important info
* My trusted mechanic (repaired only Hondas for 20 years) said my
suspension is in fine shape. He doesnt see anything that could be
causing this
* I got my new Monroe Sensatrak struts in January. I had a set of them
before with no problems and I didn't notice anything odd when they
installed them, with my old tires on.
Krzys
As soon as you said that, you eliminated upsizing your rims.
Shifty the Host
free miles so far. The OEM tires are the Michelins MXV4 plus
and I would like to replace them...
Im looking at either the Kumho Solus KH16 or the Cooper
Lifeliner SLE. Which tire would provide the more smoother,
comfortable ride, be better in the rain and have the best
treadwear life?
The Cooper is rated at 70,000 miles
The Kumho is rated at 60,000 miles
Thank you!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I want to change because them are unsafe in the rain!