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But 20/20 correctly pointed out that they found some 6 year old tires being sold - and that's not good. Correctly stored, tires remain pretty good for 3 years.
The real problem is heat. If tires are stored where it is hot - or used where it is hot - they chemically do not last as long. Needless to say, the length of time is going to be dependent on how hot it is over the course of several years. Places like Minneapolis will not experience as much heat as a place like Phoenix.
And surprisingly, Florida has been found to be one of those places where heat is a tire problem. Even though it doesn't get blisteringly hot like in Phoenix, the temperature is fairly constant year round.
So when you are buying tires, don't fret much about the age. The price is usually adjusted to reflect how old the tires are. Put another way, tire manufacturers tend to discount the price the longer the tires sit in the warehouse. Needless to say, this is never discussed doing the buying transaction. Just be aware that bargains are exactly that - and sometimes the reason for the bargain is the age of the tire.
However, it is probably a good idea to look at the manufacture date on your tires, just so you know.
I looked for a recent manufacture date on the last set I bought. There were in a stack on the showroom floor. I would ask to see the tires before they're put on.
The last Michelins I had on the car were getting harder and were about 6 years old. A friend who is in the tire business had told me the cracking didn't mean anything but the hardening did. So I want fresh tires to begin with.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The Subaru Outback distributes power to all wheels at all times. Subaru recommends that differences in tire circumferences not exceed 1/4" so you are correct that if I had a Subaru I should replace all 4 tires.
The 2007 Santa Fe has electronically controlled AWD that is normally in FWD unless slippage is detected in the front wheels.
New tire tread depth is 10/32". The existing tires have a tread depth of 6/32". The sidewall of one tire was damaged and the tire must be replaced. Since the tires have 30 - 40% wear left, I would like to replace just the damaged tire.
It is my intention to install the new tire on the rear. Since the rear axles are normally freewheeling, this should not cause a problem with the AWD components.
Whether it's FWD, RWD, or AWD, you should at least keep equal tread depth on both tires of an axle. It's a safety issue more than anything else...
If it detects slippage in the front by measuring the difference in rotation speed between the front and back, then even that one larger tire in the back could cause the rear wheels to kick in...
Does the car have a spare? If so, wouldn't it be new? Move the tire that was opposite the bad one to the spare, then use the spare and the one new tire on an axle..
regards,
kyfdx
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Good points, thanks.
The spare is the same circumference as the regular tires, but is a dedicated spare only (50 mph max.).
I thought the same thing about the slippage (or faster rotation on the front) perhaps activating the AWD transfer of power to the rear wheels. From that point of view, the new tire should be placed on the front. However from a safety point of view, it is always best to put the best tread on the rear (AWD, FWD or RWD).
I am trying to gain additional information on the Hyundai system, but have not been too successful so far.
The manual does not have any cautions on replacing tires in sets.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Choice 2) 1 new tire, then have it shaved down to match the others..
I'd pick #2..
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So, before you shave a new tire, compare it to the other ones... It might not be far enough off to matter.. (Of course, it could be off the other way, as well..)
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That is what I am thinking. The new tire is identical to the existing (Bridgestone Dueler 235 R60 18) and I find it hard to believe that there should be any issue at all.
However, Subaru states that there can be no more than 1/4" difference in the circumference of any tire, or problems with the AWD system will result.
1/16" difference in tread depth would translate to (circumference = pi 2r) (pi x 1/16 x2)) 3.14 x 1/8 = 3.14/8 or close to 1/4" difference in circumference.
I find it hard to believe that any vehicle, Subaru or not, can maintain tolerances that closely.
But... get the tire.. measure it... see how close.. I bet you can get it shaved to match for $20...
EDIT: A Subaru has a more sophisticated AWD system than a Hyundai or Honda... It might be a lot more sensitive to differences.. I also agree that 1/4" tolerances in circumference is a little tight, and maybe not realistic..
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If yes, look at shaving.
If no, enjoy life.
That is exactly what I am thinking.
4/32" in tread difference translates to 8/32" or 1/4" in diameter which translates to a little over 3/4" in circumference of the tire.
Let's say that the tire/wheel diameter of the existing tires is 29" (circumference 91.06"). Then the diameter of the new tire/wheel is 291/4" (circumference 91.85").
The existing tires will turn 685 times in a mile. The new tire will turn 690 times in a mile.
I cannot believe that this in anyway exceeds cornering situations that will be experienced in normal situations.
The existing tires will turn 696 times in a mile. The new tire will turn 690 times in a mile.
I cannot believe that 6 additional rotations in a mile will set off spin sensors and activate the AWD system.
Normal cornering must create greater rotational differences over a mile.
The logo on the lug cap is two parallel black bars with a red line crossing the two black bars. Kina looks like an "H" with a gold background.
Problem? The two are slightly different in width. One is 275/35, the other is 265/35.
I've mounted them, and the 10 mm difference is not noticeable visually, and other than another car geek, I don't expect to be busted and embarrassed
I've driven a few hundred miles in the 2 weeks since I did this, and the car has not complained about the 7mm diff in rolling diameter - no ABS or Traction control issues. If it works I'll probably leave them alone until I do the winter tire swap, then replace all four tires in the spring.
Thoughts?
If I decide i want a real sports car for racing on a track, I would consider Falkens, but never again form my passenger vehicle. There are many other tires that provide as good dry wet traction but have much much better longevity.
Tires that are identically sized can very over 1/2" in actually road width, tread compounds can very (Michelin "Energy" MXV4s use a very hard compound for fuel economy at the expense of handling and ride quality relative to a tire like the Bridgestone RE960). The tread design plays a role (some designs create more friction and drag, good for handling and braking, bad for fuel economy) and some tires are heavier than others.
First read this:
http://www.geocities.com/barrystiretech/rrandfe.html
You took 2 hits:
1) Replacing worn tires with new tires, which, everything else being equal, is going to hurt fuel economy.
2) OEM tires give better fuel economy than tires designed specifically for the replacement market. On the plus side, you'll get much better wear with tires desogned for the replacement market.
A high treadwear rating typically means a harder tread compound which should lead to lower rolling resistance. I don't understand why that would hurt and not help.
You misread something somewhere. I expect a higher treadwear rating to result in ever so slightly (perhaps not even measurable) better mileage. My current tire rating is 260 which is pretty low for an all-season tire (yet with 29K miles, they still have 7/32" tread depth).
This tire (Bridgestone EL400) is a popular OEM choice yet has one of the lowest Tirerack survey ratings of any all-season tire and is more expensive than Michelin and Goodyear replacements that have at least 2x the treadwear rating and much, much higher ratings/satisfaction from Tirerack customers in every category.
Add a firm suspension to the equation and you've got a sore rear end in addition to the back ache (on long trips). I keep my Goodyear Tripletreds at the recommended 35psi. Anything higher just isn't worth it. :sick:
The original set of tires also created the car to move eradically into the freeway "tracks" and when the Yokohamas were new, they didn't dart to the worn part of the freeway as they do now. We know that the problem is the tires and not the car.
What tires do other SL owners recommend?
Thanks!
Not being able to have dedicated winter tires (no place to store), I'm looking at three replacements:
Yokohama W.Drive
Nokian WR
Nokian WRG2
Unfortunately the WRG2's are not in warehouses and seem impossible to find. The WR's supposedly reduce mileage. The W.drive I know little about.
They are all very expensive and I don't want to guess.
Any comments, suggestions? I would like the Forester to be better able to deal with the frequent Ice storms we have in Portland OR during the winter.
Thanks!
You might want to investigate the ratings on tirerack.com and see if something meets your needs.
Krzys
The original set of tires also created the car to move eradically into the freeway "tracks" and
I agree with otto that there is a suspension or alignment problem there. A deeper tread is a little more forgiving at slight alignment variations than shallower tread is, but you're describing alignment factors.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Solus KR21
You might check Consumers Union or other sites for more info.
I'm also looking to replace tires on my vette and will be looking at the Kumho Ecsta SPT. Reviews said not as good as some of the other brands but for the price can't be beat.
The owner told me that the Bridgestone Blizzak LM22's were runflat tires.
I don't see aything marked on the tire to indicate that they are indeed runflats.
Any clues?