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Comments
1. Will it void a Yokohama tires' warranty?
2. Drawbacks?
Les Schwab pushed this really hard when I researched better all season tires for occasional winter driving
I think siping is a good idea if you live in an area that gets ice/snow. The lateral sipe=cuts break down the watery boundary layer on top of ice, and also provide more biting edges to break up sliding a little more than un-siped tires. The proof that tire engineers know about siping is illustrated by looking at the Pirelli Scorpion Ice and Snow tire -- click here compared to non-winter tire -- click here, noticing more siping on the winter tire.
If you sipe the tires at the dealer, it does void your warranty, as it might cause the tread to wear out just a little quicker. Not much difference in my experience, though.
Krzys
So the question is, do I not cry over spilled milk and just add air when/if they need it (supposedly nitrogen will reduce the pressure variations due to temperature) or go back to the tire store when/if I to increase the pressure? The store is only 2 miles away and they said they would add nitrogen or even deflate the tire and refill with nitrogen if I have to add air in an emergency.
My inclination at this point, with the temps starting to drop, as it least keep the nitrogen thru the winter and see if the claims of more stable pressure are valid. (Btw, I am well aware that air is 80% nitrogen).
Do some research on the web for the generators that isolate nitrogen from the air and note how they're sold to the dealers as profit makers. The dealers don't bring in heavy metal tanks of pure nitrogen like a hospital or lab might get; they use a cheapshot generator that has a purity level of, well, not perfect. And the purity levels of the nitrogen deteriorate with age on the units, if they were good from the beginning.
So what you're putting in the tire isn't pure nitrogen anyhow. Since air is 80% nitrogen roughly, you're not gaining much. And unless you're retreading the tires to keep them many years and layers of retread rubber you're not going to help. The outside of the tire is in oxygen anyhow!
The only other comment I've seen validity for is the dropping of moisture inside the casing to cause deterioration. I don't know how much that varies with various compressors. Some compressors have driers and some don't.
So if the tire buy falls for paying for "air," I have a suggestion to help. In the fall when the air is dry. let the air out of your tire and reinflate with "fall" dry air. That probably will do more to help longevity of your tire (or Shraeder valve) more than N2 as the impure stuff put into your tires.
Send the $20 to imidazol97 and use the carspace email to let me know you're ready. I'll send you an email with my post office box for the payment!!! Good luck.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Just debunked this myth. Tires were installed in low to mid 70s temps. Below 60 today, the car sat out and the pressures were down 1-2 psi in each tire. Same as they would have been with air. Won't waste my time trying to keep only nitrogen in them now.
I did not see the mixup until I got back to the office, and immediately drove back to get LMC (larry, moe, curly
The owner chewed LMC out over it, so it seemed an honest mistake.
They'll actually pay me some money for the older tires (which are about 5K miles old).
This goofup gave me a very short comparison of the two versions. All I could really tell was the WRG2's appear somewhat stiffer. The WR's had some "rubberyness" over small bumps, as if the tread was squirming around a bit. On same bumps, The WRG2's were firmer.
They'll get a longer drive this evening to make sure everything is ok.
Do Nokians require such high tire pressures?
The '09 Forester XT is rated at 32 psi front, 30 rear.
The high pressure made the Forester jittery on bumps, so I throttled pressure back to a compromise of 34 front and rear. That made the ride a whole lot better.
Comments?
I'll keep 'em a pound or two over recomendations, to allow for a little leakage over time.
Factory = 32 F / 30 R
Nokian recomendation = 35 F / 33 R
I wonder if there is any direct comparison between WR's / WRG2's and regular all season tires like the Geolanders. I expect better ice traction with WRG2, but it would be nice to know how much more traction they can offer.
came with tires P225/60R17 Bridgestone EL42Z
I would like to put winter rims/wheels & tires on van .
looking to find second hand vs $1000 for new set
Do I have to go with 17 inch rims & tires?
will 16 inch rim & tires work ?
I have this problem with my tires, they are always deflating. And when I'm saying deflating I mean deflating. I keep going to the autoshop (3 different one) and they tell me I have to change the valve of the tires. Ok, fine. So I do it. But correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think a tire needs a change of valve every 3 months or so. I check air pressure once a week and make sure it's ok. But still the problem remains. So I changed my tires once already and the guy at the shop told me to put nitrogen in it to make sure it doesn't deflate that much. (ok I've read about it and I know there's not much of a difference between air and nitrogen but at this point I'm ready to try anything).
But still, the tires are deflating. And I'm tired of people pointing my tires while passing me by on the road to tell me I have a flat. So I'm lost here. I don't know what to do anymore. If someone has any idea what could help, please feel free to answer this post. Take care all!
S
"Proud" owner of a Toyota Tercel 1998 with Goodyear Nordic in winter and Motomaster AW in summer (I know not the best tires around but it's hard to find a 13 inches tire these days, on a budget :confuse: )
thanks in advance
Bryan
I think it is time to do an immersion test.
Take the tires off the vehicle and submerge them in a tub of water. A kiddy pool works well for this purpose. Notice where the bubbles come from.
It isn't clear from your post how long it takes to have the tires air down (I'm thinking the best way to state this would be X psi over Y amount of time.) and it's also unclear if it is all 4 tires or just one.
But I can tell you that alloy wheels are clear coated to seal the pores in the metal, and that clearcoat develops microscopic cracks over time and will leak.
It's most likely corrosion on your alloy wheels.. Next time you have the tires off, make sure they scrub the contact areas of the wheels down with a wire brush... But, if it keeps happening, a cheap set of new alloy wheels might be the best solution. Speaking from experience...
regards,
kyfdx
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Your comments on inflation pressure is interesting to me. I think my owner's manaual says that with winter tires I should add 3 lbs of pressure. Sounds like Nokian concurs. How are they riding at the pressures you are currently using?
I would look for rust/corrosion where the valve stem fits through the rim and where the tire bead makes contact with the rim. I also agree with those that have suggested a soapy water test.
Subaru normally has pressure 2 psi less in the back. With equal pressure front and back, and 1 or 2 people inside, the forester's rear end has a tendency to hop over bumps.
Nokian recomended around 3 psi over factory specs, but for now to keep the ride decent I've left it 2 psi over Subaru's.
It is fill once and forget substance. The only problem is that you must not overinflate, there is no way of reducing the pressure - it is a side effect of "fix all leaks" feature.
;-)
Krzys
PS Soap test is good idea. Immersion test is probably the best but children bubble solution or dishsoap solution in sprayer might be the easiest to apply (to the outside of the wheel/tire at least). Good luck.
PS2 Check www.discounttire.com web page (other tire places might be affected too). There is ongoing valve stem recall.
Need to get a set of WRG2s for my Outback 3.0R and was thinking of heading down to your neck of the woods to save the tax (we've got a couple other purchases to make, so it's worth the extra gas). Can you tell me where you got 'em and what the cost was?
I've been looking around and not very many places carry these. With few options, I don't know how competitive the pricing is. I know tirerack.com used to sell 'em, but I don't see Nokian tires on their website anymore.
- Jeff
thanks
Bryan
Keep in mind that "grippy" tires may not give you long mileage, so when you go from wet season to dry you may end up with more tire wear than you expected. Everything's a compromise to some extent.
These WRG2's are darn impressive. Previously with the Geolanders, I had to apply a small amount of throttle to get my Forester to keep up speed descending a shallow grade (that's right, accelerating to go __down__ a hill !!). The Nokians changed that - the car now gains speed rolling down the same hills. My MPG also seems to have improved - originally I would get only 18 mpg in city driving. It's now up to 20.
Now, do I have a shot at getting these for under *gulp* a thousand bucks?
If you are leaning towards winter tires that are driveable in summer, there's Yokohama W.drive and the Nokian WR and WRG2. The W.Drive and WRG2 tread patterns are somewhat similar. However, the W.drive literature says little about summer driving, and Yoko rolling resistance seems higher than Nokian.
I'm buying a new tire soon and I'm really confused on which tire to buy... Any suggestions on which ones? I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra GLS and I think right now, it's using Michelin MXV4 or something with different rear tires (Just bought the car so I have no idea what the previous owner was thinking...)
Right now, I narrowed it down to these options...
link titleBridgestone RE960 AS Pole Position for $68
GoodYear Assurance TripleTred for $ 58 (Maybe, since one of my friend might be able to get a $40 each tire employee's discount)
Kumho Solus KH16 for $59
Kumho LX Platinum- for $68
Falken Ziex ZE-912 for $59 (With a probable additional 30% with eBay Microsoft Cashback, since discounttiredirect.com sell in eBay)
I know, for Bridgestone it's more brand than anything and I've heard bad stories about GoodYear but just thought the price are justifiable?
Thanks for all the help!
Just looking for opinions to help me decided...
On one snowy/icy hill it quickly got stuck along with 9 other cars.
In the Dry, or in rain, they seemed to work ok.
Personally I'd stay away from the Bridgestone/Firestone tires, but I've heard/read good things about the Kumho's.
Krzys
The feel of the WRG2's is certainly different than any other tire I've owned. They seem less harsh over small, sharp bumps even with their recomended pressure increase over stock.
Is this true for Nokians in general?
LOLOLOL
Thanks, I needed that.