Without input from the tire person who's to know where the tires went on rotation. Most of the old timers would just swap the fronts as that would take the least amount of effort.
Indeed if it is a tough nut to crack, the Hunter GSP 9700 link title is the system that can make pretty short work of what used to be trial and error and with a pretty high level of reliability.
I am hoping you don't mean that Michelin owns the Pirelli brand name - as that is not true.
Pirelli is an Italian based tire manufacturer, and while they own the rights to the Armstrong brand (and a couple of others) they do not have any connection to Michelin - other than the obvious one.
BTW, while Michelin owns the rights to the Uniroyal brand in the US, Continental owns the rights to the Uniroyal brand in Europe.
And to complicate things further:
The Dunlop brand is owned by three different tire manufacturers who are only allowed to use that brand name within a particular part of the world.
So be very careful when reading about who owns a particular brand name.
Michelin = fairly priced for excellent quality for being round, rolling round, and staying round through their oife. Michelin tires give excellent life and traction. And a person in a discussion recently bought Michelin radials at CostCo and took advantage of $70 off for 4 tire purchase.
Michelin = fairly priced for excellent quality for being round, rolling round, and staying round through their oife. Michelin tires give excellent life and traction.
The same could be said for just about any other tire maker, but they're less expensive.
Case in point: OEM 17" tires for a 2004 Mazda 6 - Michelin Pilot HX MXM4. TireRack has them at $197 EACH, and that's the lowest price I've seen for them anywhere. Meanwhile, there are excellent choices listed from Dunlop, Kumho, and General, just to name a few, for less than $100 per tire.
Not only that, but after 35K miles on the Michelins, they were VERY loud, and the tread was barely the legal depth for NY. Wet traction was terrible from the beginning, and simply scary after 35K miles, and I bought snow tires after the first 2" snowfall that I experienced, because I had NO traction, especially on hills.
Considering there are excellent choices from other makers that excel above the Michelins in ALL areas (including my current Yokohama Avid W4S) and are far less expensive...
Not sure how to post a new topic. Sorry if i am interrupting your train of thought. I have a Subaru outback legacy with about 160,000 miles on it.
My question is whether it is necessary to replace all 4 tires when I only need 2 new ones. My 2 front tires are about bald and rear tires still ahve a year of tread on them. I have heard mixed ideas on this topic from people I know, including mechanics. I know I need a 4-wheel alignment when I put tires on, but can i put the good rear 2 tires on the front, new ones on the back and do the 4-wheel alignment?
>>excellent quality for being round, rolling round, and staying round through their life.
>same could be said for just about any other tire maker
It can be said, but it won't necessarily be true. There's a reason Michelins were the factory replacement of choice when GM was troubleshooting vibration on their H and C bodies. The Michelins were round under load. Other companies can cut costs on the build techniques but the product won't necessarily be the same. E.g., my Michelins on my 03 were 6, 8, 9, and 12 units of force on the Road Force balancer. The service manager said that other tires were way higher than that, including the popular brand of tire he was putting on a Grand Am the same day.
My experience has been that Michelins last a long time in miles. They give great service at staying round under load.
You may have a different opinion. I have mine from my experiences with Michelins through the years.
I assume that you have AWD and then the answer is that if you do not want to replace your center diff then you should replace all 4 tires and rotate them more often. If you check manual you should be able to find that Subaru suggests to use tires that are within 1/4" of each other, and it is 1/4" of circumference.
If you have quite new tires and need to replace one then it may make sense to replace one tire and put it wherever your subaru may notice it the least (like my 2005 Legacy GT has open front differential but LSD [Limited Slip Diff] in the rear - if I need to use one mismatched tire it would go on front axle). Another option is to shave new tire(s) to match the old ones.
But if your 2 good tires are already worn then you need to replace 4.
Good answer. I would like to add that 1/4" of circumference equates to 1.27 32nds of tread. I rotate my Outback tires to keep the differences under 1/32nd.
This seems like a pretty difficult tolerance to maintain. How much air pressure difference would there need to be to have the same impact as 1/32 inch of tread depth? What is the tire manufacturer's tolerance for differences from one tire to the next of the same model?
For me this just adds a new reason for not wanting to bother with AWD.
Oh well, more things to worry about. Maybe I'll save up my Subaru buxx so I'm ready when I need to buy a new differential. I do love how AWD handles in bad weather, though.
the current OEM is 18". Is there a tire/wheel combo that allows me to use a smaller wheel and bigger (in diameter) tire so I have higher tire wall but keep the same over all diameter so it won't affect the speedometer and ESC. 18" is too hard for my liking.
Tire Rack and Discount Tire are your best sources for information about alternative rim diameters. Most of the time, folks are interested in going larger in diameter, and that's the infomation they'll have up front. but if they don't have information on smaller rim sizes directly, look in their winter tire section.
My mechanic (who doesn't sell tires), said that I have "shifted belts" in all 4 of my tires. He put it up on the lift for me, and idled the car and noted that you watch the tires spin, they bounce a bit, the tires are essentialy shaped like 4 eggs. So I brought it to "discount Tire" to take advantage of their "Free Replacement guarentee". They took the tires off the carand visually examined them. The manager said that if the belts are shifted, then I would see spots on my tires where they wwere beginning to separate, or stell belts poking out. Who is correct, my mechanic or "Discount Tire". I think Dicount tire is jerking me around.
My mechanic (who doesn't sell tires), said that I have "shifted belts" in all 4 of my tires. He put it up on the lift for me, and idled the car and noted that you watch the tires spin, they bounce a bit, the tires are essentialy shaped like 4 eggs. So I brought it to "discount Tire" to take advantage of their "Free Replacement guarentee". They took the tires off the carand visually examined them. The manager said that if the belts are shifted, then I would see spots on my tires where they wwere beginning to separate, or stell belts poking out. Who is correct, my mechanic or "Discount Tire". I think Dicount tire is jerking me around.
You don't mention the manufacturer of the tire, but it is rare to have a shifted belt on a tire from a reputable company. So the odds that you would statistically end up with 4 out of 4 tires all having a shifting belt would be very low. To end up with 4 of 4, they'd have to have some major wrong with the manufacturing process which would effect all of their tires, and you'd hear about it in the newspapers or internet. So on the surface, I would find it hard to accept your mechanics assessment.
What is the symptom of the problem that is causing you to take it to the mechanic in the first place? How old is the vehicle, how many total miles on the vehicle, how many miles on these tires, has the vehicle been recently aligned, has the vehicle had any suspension parts replaced, vehicle ever been in a major accident, are you the original owner of this vehicle so that you understand it's history, etc?
Now could you have 4 tires which are causing vibrations at 60 mph, yes. But this symptom could be caused by vehicle out of alignment or worn suspension parts, which cause unusual wear on the tire, which makes the tire go out of balance or out of round. Could you also have a damaged wheel, yes.
First, belts do not shift. There's a long story behind this, and it took place a long time ago. It is no longer valid.
Some folks use the term when they see tires with irregular wear - and some use the term to mean tires with separated belts.
What is most likely is that you have irregular wear. Irregular wear is caused by misalignment and aggravated by insufficient inflation pressure and insufficient rotation practices.
My experience says that the published alignment tolerances are too wide. Not the target value, but the allowable deviation from that value. I think it ought to be half of what is published.
Put another way, the alignment should be within the inner half of the spec.
You should be aware that even vehicles that do not have a pull can be out of alignment. There are settings where one out of spec condition is offset by another out of spec condition – typically camber vs toe.
3 tires are Douglas, 1 is Dominator. they're about 3 years old, I'va has the care for about 5 years, I bought at 35,000, it now has 75000. Discount tires free replacemet guarentee is supposed to cover any defect of the tire that is not normal wear.. Brought to mechanic b/c of shaking when hitting breaks at high speed. brakes are fine, though since he resurfaced the rotar that doesn't happen anymore, but he did note that the tires are egg shaped
I'd guess that the cheap tires are just worn out... Since your mechanic doesn't do tires, I'd guess that he doesn't balance tires, either? An unbalanced tire/wheel will look like it's out of round, if you spin it..
If resurfacing the rotors stopped the high-speed braking vibration, then the rotor was definitely the problem..
You probably need new tires, but I'd have someone look over the rest of your suspension/alignment... If you have suspension problems that are creating early tire wear, then getting new tires will just mask the problem, until the new tires start wearing abnormally..
The symptom you mention of vibration when braking, would typically be warped rotors. Sometimes you can cut the rotor down, but the better fix is to replace the rotor. I would not be surprised if this vibration came back, as the thinner metal makes it even easier to warp.
You are better off with matched tires on the same axle. Not sure how you ended up with one odd ball.
>Sometimes you can cut the rotor down, but the better fix is to replace the rotor.
Also it's better to find if an exterior problem caused the rotor to warp, such as dragging slides on the caliper that had rusted or tightened up in some way or the piston not pulling back as it should or even a defective brake hose to that caliper.
Does anyone have experience with michelin PS2 ZP tires?
I am curious how they compare with regular non run flat tires? Also are they much less harsh than Bridgestone runflats (which I find to be very harsh)?
Debating whether to to get the regular or the ZP model. Thoughts?
I was rotating my tires on my Outback this afternoon, and as I was moving the LF back to the LR, I heard a noise in the tire. Something is rolling around in there. It sounds bigger than a valve cap, more like a small pebble.
The tire has ~15,000 miles on it and never had a flat.
I guess I'll go have the tire cleaned out. Maybe it'll be a 2 carat diamond ring.
Thanks, something else I'll have to mess around with now. I almost traded this car a couple of months ago and I stashed my receipts somewhere when I cleaned out the car. Not sure where they are now.
If you had 10 y.o. unused tires (almost new-looking), properly stored, no dry rot, would you really throw them out, & buy new tires for a vehicle you drive 3K miles a year?
It is understandable that folks would be reluctant to throw away what appears to be a perfectly good tire. The problem is that the deterioration of the rubber is real and it is both time and temperature dependent. In other words, the results in Phoenix would be different than the results in Minneapolis.
Plus, the signs that the rubber has deteriorated do not appear on unused tires. Flexing is required for the cracks to develop. And cracking is a sign that things are bad - lack of cracking doesn't mean things are good.
You also have to consider that a tire failure at 70 mph could cause potentially fatal resuts, where a 25 mph would probably not be so dramatic. Needless to say, an old tire would be much more prone to failure than a fresh one.
Last thought: The scenario you've proposed means that at 15,000 miles, the tire would be 15 years old. Does this sound like a good idea?
capriracer, yeah, I know everything you're saying is true. My car failed Mass. inspection the other day, because of the current tires on my 10 y.o. bmw, which do look pretty bad. My plan--just because I have the other "new" looking 10 y.o. tires in my garage already mounted on nice bmw rims--is to have those put on to pass inspection--at least they'll be better than the current worn-out tires, I assume.
Then in Oct., have my new Dunlop snows mounted on the "old" rims that are on the car now. And look for a good deal on new summer tires in the meantime.....& cool it at highway speeds.....most of my driving is around town anyway.
OTOH, my local Costco has Michelin - Pilot® Exalto® A/S 225/55R16 tires at a decent price, + a $70 coupon off. They get exc. consumer ratings on Tire Rack. I know there are other cheaper choices, but it would be easy for $500-ish.....
I have a car that has 195/65-15 tires on steel wheels. Other versions of this car came with tires as wide as 225/45-17.
I assume this means that 215/70-15 tires could fit the car width-wise. I am also guesing that extra ~1 inch radius would still allow enough clearance. But is it safe to assume that the wider tires would fit on the existing wheels?
I understand that these tires would create a bit of error in speedometer readings, online calculator indicates it'd be off about 7.5%.
Even though, yes, it seems like a tire up to 225mm would fit, no, I wouldn't guarantee that a 215/70-15 would fit. You probably have a 6" wide rim which means a 215 may fit on there-- each tire size has recommended and allowable rim widths.
But that's a tall tire and even though it's narrower than a 225/45-17, we don't know the rim width and offset of the 15 and 17 inch wheels... so even if you could mount the tire on the rim, it might rub the fenders or struts.
Proceed carefully... unless you're sure someone has tried the same combination you're thinking of, and it worked fine for them.
On tire rack it comes up with 6.5 inch wide steel rims for this car, so I would guess that is what is on there. It gives 45 mm as the offset for 15 inch and 42 mm for 16 inch. For 17 inch alloys it shows +45 mm offset, and it also indicates 19 inchers could be put on with in a 235/35 size.
I'd check with the dealer before doing this. I'm just looking for potential use for newish tires on a minivan that could potentially be disposed of as a clunker and I happen to have a Jetta that will need tires soon.
I have an SUV, and a few years ago (at 38,000 miles) I backed over a trailer hitch and blew a tire. So I bought 2 new tires. I'm now at 78,000 miles--the pair of original Michelin Cross Terrain tires have 78,000 miles on them; the newer pair (same kind) has 40,000 miles on them. While the 78,000 pair (8 years old) show more wear, they're not in bad shape as far as I know, and no treadwear indicator is visible. But is that getting to be too many miles to have on a pair of tires, and if so, would people normally buy 2 new tires or 4 and get them "synchronized" again? Thanks for info.
How much tread do each pr. of tires have left? Do you have a tread-depth gauge--very good to have around--there's a good one on amazon for $5.99. Regardless of the older pr., I woudn't replace the newer ones unless they're too worn, or show signs of damage.
Yeah, they do "harden" after 10 years or so, even if they still work.
I wound up putting the 10 y.o. unused tires on my bmw. They were already mounted on unused bmw rims. I was under the gun, because in Mass., when your car fails inspection, it's illegal to drive it until you get it "fixed".
I did call costco about buying these Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S I wanted, about $600 for 4. They gave me a hard time, claiming that 16" tires were not a factory option on yr. 2000 5-series (??!). (They were standard with the Premium package). They said they'd sell me the tires, which they'd have to order, but would refuse to install them (??!).
I also checked tire rack, but after 10 minutes of arguing with the idiot at costco, I drove up the street to my local indie bmw mechanic, who put on the 10 y.o. unused tires & rims for about $40. Went back to the inspection station, where the guy was visibly upset, because he had tried to high-pressure me into buying really over-priced tires from him.
So I got rid of the dreaded "R" sticker, & got a passed inspection sticker.......& in 2 months I have to get my (new) snows mounted on the old rims, so......
So your state requires some sort of inspection by people with an interest in seeing you fail, so that they can overcharge you for whatever you need to have fixed in order to pass?
ct works the same way, the testing stations are also repair centers. i just had the emissions test done on my 1991 mustang. it is too old to be OBD II, so they have to test it on a dyno. while it was being tested, i could remember hearing it, which seemed unusual. when i checked the report it indicated the test was done @ over 2300 rpm. 1000 rpm = 40 mph, so do the math. :mad: that test was one of my motivations to finally get some new tires. of course, i bought them from someone else.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
Why is it that most summer performance tires state that they are not for driving at temps below freezing? I understand why you wouldn't want to use them in the snow but why are temps so important?
I would never drive a summer tire in snow or ice because I know they are not designed for it but I could see taking them out occasionally in cold weather on dry pavement.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Obviously tire information places like www.tirerack.com are good sources.
For discussion purposes, let me take a stab. So called "summer tires" are optimized for performance within temperature parameters (when warmed) . No harm/ foul taking summer performance tires in cold but dry pavement. But unless compromised for that, the tires do not perform as best they could when say temps are 75 F up to 110 F.
Comments
I am hoping you don't mean that Michelin owns the Pirelli brand name - as that is not true.
Pirelli is an Italian based tire manufacturer, and while they own the rights to the Armstrong brand (and a couple of others) they do not have any connection to Michelin - other than the obvious one.
BTW, while Michelin owns the rights to the Uniroyal brand in the US, Continental owns the rights to the Uniroyal brand in Europe.
And to complicate things further:
The Dunlop brand is owned by three different tire manufacturers who are only allowed to use that brand name within a particular part of the world.
So be very careful when reading about who owns a particular brand name.
Which specific models are you looking at? For what vehicle will these go on? Do you drive in any snow/ice conditions?
overpricedfair valueMichelin = fairly priced for excellent quality for being round, rolling round, and staying round through their oife. Michelin tires give excellent life and traction. And a person in a discussion recently bought Michelin radials at CostCo and took advantage of $70 off for 4 tire purchase.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The same could be said for just about any other tire maker, but they're less expensive.
Case in point: OEM 17" tires for a 2004 Mazda 6 - Michelin Pilot HX MXM4. TireRack has them at $197 EACH, and that's the lowest price I've seen for them anywhere. Meanwhile, there are excellent choices listed from Dunlop, Kumho, and General, just to name a few, for less than $100 per tire.
Not only that, but after 35K miles on the Michelins, they were VERY loud, and the tread was barely the legal depth for NY. Wet traction was terrible from the beginning, and simply scary after 35K miles, and I bought snow tires after the first 2" snowfall that I experienced, because I had NO traction, especially on hills.
Considering there are excellent choices from other makers that excel above the Michelins in ALL areas (including my current Yokohama Avid W4S) and are far less expensive...
Yeah, they're overpriced.
My question is whether it is necessary to replace all 4 tires when I only need 2 new ones. My 2 front tires are about bald and rear tires still ahve a year of tread on them. I have heard mixed ideas on this topic from people I know, including mechanics. I know I need a 4-wheel alignment when I put tires on, but can i put the good rear 2 tires on the front, new ones on the back and do the 4-wheel alignment?
Thanks
>same could be said for just about any other tire maker
It can be said, but it won't necessarily be true. There's a reason Michelins were the factory replacement of choice when GM was troubleshooting vibration on their H and C bodies. The Michelins were round under load. Other companies can cut costs on the build techniques but the product won't necessarily be the same. E.g., my Michelins on my 03 were 6, 8, 9, and 12 units of force on the Road Force balancer. The service manager said that other tires were way higher than that, including the popular brand of tire he was putting on a Grand Am the same day.
My experience has been that Michelins last a long time in miles. They give great service at staying round under load.
You may have a different opinion. I have mine from my experiences with Michelins through the years.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If you check manual you should be able to find that Subaru suggests to use tires that are within 1/4" of each other, and it is 1/4" of circumference.
If you have quite new tires and need to replace one then it may make sense to replace one tire and put it wherever your subaru may notice it the least (like my 2005 Legacy GT has open front differential but LSD [Limited Slip Diff] in the rear - if I need to use one mismatched tire it would go on front axle).
Another option is to shave new tire(s) to match the old ones.
But if your 2 good tires are already worn then you need to replace 4.
Krzys
For me this just adds a new reason for not wanting to bother with AWD.
What is the symptom of the problem that is causing you to take it to the mechanic in the first place? How old is the vehicle, how many total miles on the vehicle, how many miles on these tires, has the vehicle been recently aligned, has the vehicle had any suspension parts replaced, vehicle ever been in a major accident, are you the original owner of this vehicle so that you understand it's history, etc?
Now could you have 4 tires which are causing vibrations at 60 mph, yes. But this symptom could be caused by vehicle out of alignment or worn suspension parts, which cause unusual wear on the tire, which makes the tire go out of balance or out of round. Could you also have a damaged wheel, yes.
Some folks use the term when they see tires with irregular wear - and some use the term to mean tires with separated belts.
What is most likely is that you have irregular wear. Irregular wear is caused by misalignment and aggravated by insufficient inflation pressure and insufficient rotation practices.
My experience says that the published alignment tolerances are too wide. Not the target value, but the allowable deviation from that value. I think it ought to be half of what is published.
Put another way, the alignment should be within the inner half of the spec.
You should be aware that even vehicles that do not have a pull can be out of alignment. There are settings where one out of spec condition is offset by another out of spec condition – typically camber vs toe.
So I think both are wrong.
If resurfacing the rotors stopped the high-speed braking vibration, then the rotor was definitely the problem..
You probably need new tires, but I'd have someone look over the rest of your suspension/alignment... If you have suspension problems that are creating early tire wear, then getting new tires will just mask the problem, until the new tires start wearing abnormally..
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You are better off with matched tires on the same axle. Not sure how you ended up with one odd ball.
Also it's better to find if an exterior problem caused the rotor to warp, such as dragging slides on the caliper that had rusted or tightened up in some way or the piston not pulling back as it should or even a defective brake hose to that caliper.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I am curious how they compare with regular non run flat tires? Also are they much less harsh than Bridgestone runflats (which I find to be very harsh)?
Debating whether to to get the regular or the ZP model. Thoughts?
Krzys
TPMS, of course.
Krzys
The tire has ~15,000 miles on it and never had a flat.
I guess I'll go have the tire cleaned out. Maybe it'll be a 2 carat diamond ring.
I know the "correct" answer, but.....
Plus, the signs that the rubber has deteriorated do not appear on unused tires. Flexing is required for the cracks to develop. And cracking is a sign that things are bad - lack of cracking doesn't mean things are good.
You also have to consider that a tire failure at 70 mph could cause potentially fatal resuts, where a 25 mph would probably not be so dramatic. Needless to say, an old tire would be much more prone to failure than a fresh one.
Last thought: The scenario you've proposed means that at 15,000 miles, the tire would be 15 years old. Does this sound like a good idea?
Then in Oct., have my new Dunlop snows mounted on the "old" rims that are on the car now. And look for a good deal on new summer tires in the meantime.....& cool it at highway speeds.....most of my driving is around town anyway.
OTOH, my local Costco has Michelin - Pilot® Exalto® A/S 225/55R16 tires at a decent price, + a $70 coupon off. They get exc. consumer ratings on Tire Rack. I know there are other cheaper choices, but it would be easy for $500-ish.....
I assume this means that 215/70-15 tires could fit the car width-wise. I am also guesing that extra ~1 inch radius would still allow enough clearance. But is it safe to assume that the wider tires would fit on the existing wheels?
I understand that these tires would create a bit of error in speedometer readings, online calculator indicates it'd be off about 7.5%.
Would there be any other issues with doing this?
Even though, yes, it seems like a tire up to 225mm would fit, no, I wouldn't guarantee that a 215/70-15 would fit. You probably have a 6" wide rim which means a 215 may fit on there-- each tire size has recommended and allowable rim widths.
But that's a tall tire and even though it's narrower than a 225/45-17, we don't know the rim width and offset of the 15 and 17 inch wheels... so even if you could mount the tire on the rim, it might rub the fenders or struts.
Proceed carefully... unless you're sure someone has tried the same combination you're thinking of, and it worked fine for them.
You don't say what car this is... From the sizes, I'm going to guess a sporty FWD hatchback... like a VW GTI? Or an Impreza?
Way too tall..
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I'd check with the dealer before doing this. I'm just looking for potential use for newish tires on a minivan that could potentially be disposed of as a clunker and I happen to have a Jetta that will need tires soon.
edit: sounds like this wouldn't work.
it feels good to drive on a tire that actually flexes.
I wound up putting the 10 y.o. unused tires on my bmw. They were already mounted on unused bmw rims. I was under the gun, because in Mass., when your car fails inspection, it's illegal to drive it until you get it "fixed".
I did call costco about buying these Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S I wanted, about $600 for 4. They gave me a hard time, claiming that 16" tires were not a factory option on yr. 2000 5-series (??!). (They were standard with the Premium package). They said they'd sell me the tires, which they'd have to order, but would refuse to install them (??!).
I also checked tire rack, but after 10 minutes of arguing with the idiot at costco, I drove up the street to my local indie bmw mechanic, who put on the 10 y.o. unused tires & rims for about $40. Went back to the inspection station, where the guy was visibly upset, because he had tried to high-pressure me into buying really over-priced tires from him.
So I got rid of the dreaded "R" sticker, & got a passed inspection sticker.......& in 2 months I have to get my (new) snows mounted on the old rims, so......
i just had the emissions test done on my 1991 mustang.
it is too old to be OBD II, so they have to test it on a dyno.
while it was being tested, i could remember hearing it, which seemed unusual.
when i checked the report it indicated the test was done @ over 2300 rpm.
1000 rpm = 40 mph, so do the math. :mad:
that test was one of my motivations to finally get some new tires.
of course, i bought them from someone else.
I would never drive a summer tire in snow or ice because I know they are not designed for it but I could see taking them out occasionally in cold weather on dry pavement.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
For discussion purposes, let me take a stab. So called "summer tires" are optimized for performance within temperature parameters (when warmed) . No harm/ foul taking summer performance tires in cold but dry pavement. But unless compromised for that, the tires do not perform as best they could when say temps are 75 F up to 110 F.